Volume 2 - July - September - 2013

Transcription

Beach - Bordi & Dahanu
Managing Editors
Jagdish Patil
Kishori Gadre
Hills – Matheran
Executive Editor
Sanjay Dhekane
Caves –
Ellora
Editor-in-chief
Manjiri Khandekar
Copy Editor
Huned Contractor
Design
Chakra Advertising
sunil@chakraonline.com
Content Coordination
Manjiri Bhalerao
Ulka Athale
Administration
Anuradha Kale
Distribution
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Marketing
Sanket Joshi
sanket.mtdc@gmail.com
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MAHARASHTRA UNLIMITED | April - June 2013, Vol. 2
Adventure – Rock climbing
Fort – Pratapgad
An MTDC initiative
Wild Life – Project Tiger
In this issue
Fort – Pratapgad
4
Hills – Matheran12
Cover photographs: Tiger - Sameer Raut, Birds - Samir Madhani
Personalities – Maharshi Dhondo Keshav Karve
22
Arts & Crafts – Pune Saris 28
Travel Circuit – Amravati District
34
Wild Life – Project Tiger of Maharashtra
42
Caves – Buddhist caves of Ellora 52
Shrines – Sachkhand Shri Hazur Abchalnagar
Sahib Gurudwara, Nanded
60
Monument – Koppeshvara temple at Khidrapur
66
Service – Vigyan Ashram - Pabal
72
Interview – Shri Madhur Bajaj
78
Photo feature – Migratory Birds at Bhigwan
80
Festival – Marabata & Badgya 90
Museums – Town Hall Museum of Kolhapur 96
Beach – Bordi & Dahanu
102
Adventure – Rock climbing
108
Cuisine – Shrikhand, Puranpoli & Katachi Amti
114
April - June 2013, Vol. 2 | MAHARASHTRA UNLIMITED
3
Mumbai
Pratapgad
Where Tales of Valour
Ride the Mountain Air
Pratapgad Fort
Text and Photographs © Ranadeep Bhattacharyya and Judhajit Bagchi
Occupying a very
significant place in the
history of the Maratha
rule in Maharashtra,
the Pratapgad Fort,
located close to the hill
station of Mahabaleshwar, dazzles the mind
and sight with its
majestic encircling
mountain ranges and
the tales of the might
and power of the ruler
of those times, Shivaji
Maharaj. Ranadeep
Bhattacharyya and
Judhajit Bagchi
explore the fort to get
the details
Entrance of Koppeshwara temple
4
Fort
Maharashtra, the great nation of the Maratha
warriors known for their valour, is blessed
with tales of courage and victory. In particular, out of the 360 forts that bear testimony
to the glory of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj,
the Pratapgad fort is the fount from where
the history of this legendary Maratha ruler
turned into a decisive course after he scored
a historic victory against the mighty Afzal
Khan, commander of the Bijapur Adilshahi
forces on November 10, 1659.
Deathly Encounter
Shivaji held a commendable position in parts
of Maval and his growing power alarmed the
Adilshahi court that decided to curb his activities. As a result, Afzal Khan, a renowned
general of Bijapur who had previously killed
Shivaji’s elder brother Sambhaji through
treachery, was selected to lead an assault
against Shivaji. He started from Bijapur in
June 1659. Afzal Khan wanted to fight Shivaji
on plain land where his large cavalry and the
elephants in his armed forces would give him
an advantage in comparison to the mountainous terrains of the Western Ghats where
Shivaji and his soldiers were masters of guerilla warfare. Hence, in order to entice Shivaji
out of the mountains, Afzal Khan embarked
on the destruction of the temple of Bhavani
at Tuljapur (the family deity of Shivaji) and
the temple of Vitthal at Pandharpur along
with slaying innocent villagers and converting them to Islam by force.
However, unable to incite Shivaji to attack
first, Afzal Khan moved his army to Pratapgad and settled at the foothills, waiting for a
diplomatic solution. According to reports of
that era, Shivaji was deeply worried on how
to win over the huge army of Afzal Khan waiting at his doorstep. One night, his sleep was
disturbed by a vision of Goddess Bhavani who
urged him to confront Afzal Khan boldly and
promised him victory and her full protection.
Hence Shivaji decided to privately meet Afzal
Khan at the foothills of Pratapgad to arrive at
an understanding. Unknown to Shivaji, Afzal
Khan had a diabolical plan up his sleeve.
The historic meeting took place on November
10, 1659 in a shamiyana, a highly decorated
tent especially made for guests of honour, at
The only entrance gate to the fort with small windows on the walls to throw stones and boiling oil on
the approaching enemy
The curved steps to the entrance gateway that prevented
the danger of enemy attack on
the gate with elephant
Panoramic View of the Pratapgad Fort
5
The Statue of Shivaji inaugurated by Pt. Jawaharlal Nehru
to mark the tricentenary of the
Battle of Pratpgad
Bastions of Pratapgad Fort
the foothills of Pratapgad Fort. When the two
warriors met, the over six feet tall Afzal Khan
embraced Shivaji as a customary sign of
friendship and then drew his hidden dagger
to stab Shivaji in the back. The dagger was
fortunately deflected by the iron armour that
Shivaji had worn under his dress. Shivaji immediately used his presence of mind and responded by disemboweling Khan with a single stroke of his waghnakha(iron tiger claws)
that he had worn on his hand and concealed
with his finger rings.
Afzal Khan rushed out of the tent shouting
“Dagaa, Dagaa” (treachery) and his bodyguard Sayyed Banda retaliated by attacking
Shivaji with his sword. At this decisive moment, Shivaji’s personal bodyguard, Jiva Mahala, fatally struck him down, cutting off one
of Sayyed Banda’s hands with a dandpatta (a
kind of sceptre). Since then, the saying “Hota
Jiva Mhanun Vachala Shiva’ (Because There
Was Jiva, Shiva Lived) has been echoed over
the centuries. Sambhaji Kavji Kondhalkar,
Shivaji’s lieutenant, finally beheaded Afzal
Khan and his severed head was first given as
an offering to Goddess Bhavani to thank her
and was later sent to Rajgad to be shown to
Shivaji’s mother, Jijabai, who had long since
waited to avenge the death of her elder son,
Sambhaji.
Shivaji, being a benevolent king, buried Afzal
Khan’s body after observing all the proper
rituals and built a dargah that defended the
approach to the fort. Afzal Khan is one of few
people in history who has two memorials after him - one being in Pratapgad where his
body was buried and the other in the Maratha capital city of Raigad where his severed
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head was laid to rest.
Flushed with their victory over Afzal Khan
and the destruction of his army, Shivaji conquered the entire stretch from Pune right up
to the fort of Panhala in Kolhapur district.
Among the Marathas, Afzal Khan’s death
caused the wildest exultation because it
marked the dawn of their national independence. The defeat of Bijapur was complete, the
chief had fallen, his army had ceased to exist and the victory, both in respect of carnage
and booty, was the most complete possible.
This victory made Shivaji the hero of Maratha folklore and a legendary figure among
his people. Ballads, known as powadas,
were composed by the gondhalis (wandering
bards) to celebrate the victory. This crushing defeat of the Muslim forces in the Deccan
raised the hopes and confidence of Hindus
across India and helped to create the Maratha nation as a united force under Shivaji’s
able leadership.
To commemorate the tercentenary of that
historic event, a 17-feet high equestrian
bronze statue of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj was unveiled by Jawaharlal Nehru, the
then prime minister of India, on November
30, 1957, the same year in which a road was
constructed by the Public Works Department
from Kumbhrosi village up to the fort, thus
making it accessible to the common man.
Strategic Location
The fort of Pratapgad, located at the extreme
northwestern corner of the Satara district, is
at a height of 3,500 feet above sea level on a
spur, which overlooks the road between the
villages of Par and Kinesvar. This place has
over the years become an important tourist
spot because of its proximity to the hill station of Mahabaleshwar that is barely 24 kilometres away. Uday Raje Bhosale, the heir of
the Satara princely state and a descendant of
Shivaji, currently owns the fort, which is still
inhabited by the descendant families of the
original Maratha Mavale (soldiers) of Shivaji.
The hill on which the fort is situated was originally a flat-topped high round rock called
Bhorapya at the head of the densely forested
Koyna basin of Javli. In history, Javli is described as hilly and thickly wooded with evergreen trees. The narrow rugged and steep
crest of the Sahyadris, rising 4,000 feet or
more above sea level, forms its western wall
and in the valleys the tree growth is luxuriant.
In fact, legend has it that even sunlight could
not penetrate to kiss the ground of Javli.
The state of Javli, by its position, barred
the path of Shivaji’s expansion in the south
and southwest. Also, Shivaji had envisioned
this extremely hilly and rugged terrain to be
strategically advantageous for mountainous
guerrilla warfare. Hence, after strategically
winning over Chandrarao More, the Muslimfavouring Hindu ruler of Javli who was granted the state by the Sultan of Bijapur, Shivaji
commissioned Moropant Trimbak Pingle,
who later became his Peshwa, along with architect Hiroji Indulkar to undertake the construction of this fort in order to defend the
banks of the Nira and the Koyna rivers, and
to defend the strategically located Par Pass.
The construction of this fort took two years
and was completed in between 1656-58 CE.
Since then, Pratapgad Fort remained invincible due to its excellent architecture and was
only surrendered by private negotiation in
1818 as part of the Third Anglo-Maratha War.
Exploring The Fort
The Pratapgad Fort is described by locals as
being ‘a fort within a fort’ since there are two
parts to it. The lower fort, which is around
320 metres long and 110 metres wide, has
been built on the southern and the eastern
terraces and is defended by towers and bastions 10 to 12 meters high at corners on the
projecting spurs. The roughly square upper
fort, which is 180 metres long on each side,
was built upon the crest of the hill where the
main proceedings and meetings were held.
It had several important buildings, including the famous temple of Mahadev located
at the northwest of the fort. The royal darbar
used to be held right in front of this temple
so that no one would tell a lie in this pious
place. There was only one punishment for the
traitors and liars and that was to throw them
from the steep cliff that drops off up to 250
metres. It’s a different story that there are no
records of anyone being punished at this fort
as there never were any traitors among the
valiant Maratha soldiers.
Secret tunnel from the upper
fort leading to the lower fort
The fact that the Pratapgad Fort never fell
into the enemy’s hands had its secret in the
Trap door to mislead the
soldiers
The curvillinear passage way to the entrance of the fort
built to give an illusion of continuous wall
In particular, out
of the 360 forts that
bear testimony to the
glory of Chhatrapati
Shivaji Maharaj, the
Pratapgad Fort is the
fount from where the
history of this legendary Maratha emperor
turned into a decisive
course
The Dargah at the entrance of the Pratpgad
7
The cannon placed strategically immediately after the
entrance gate
The caves on the way to the fort
Wagh-nakh (tiger claws)
Afzal Burj where Afzal Khan’s body was buried
(Photo by Suhas Asnikar)
The fact that the
Pratapgad Fort never
fell into the enemy’s
hands had its secret in
the way the fort was
meticulously planned.
The dense forests at
Pratapgad made for
a perfect cover for
Shivaji’s surprise attack strategy and in
the cover of darkness
the Maratha Mavales
positioned themselves
in the caves along the
foothill to attack the
enemy.
8
way the fort was meticulously planned. The
dense forests at Pratapgad made for a perfect
cover for Shivaji’s surprise attack strategy
and in the cover of darkness, the Maratha
Mavale positioned themselves in the caves
along the foothill to attack the enemy. The
entrance to the fort was itself a big puzzle
due to the circular boundary wall which hid
the entrance gap through the illusion of a
continuous wall. The passage to the entrance
was intentionally kept narrow and steep so
that the enemy attacking this fort would not
only get exhausted from climbing the mountain but would also need to break into small
groups to enter the fort. This meant that at
the entrance, the Maratha soldiers could
attack the enemy with swords in both their
hands and overpower them. The entire cementing of the fort wall was done with a mixture of clay, jaggery and lime.
The curve of the fort wall just before the entrance blocks the straight approach to the
main entrance door situated at a height.
This curved approach, in turn, prevents the
enemy from using elephants or battering
rams to breakdown the main door. To have
complete control over the fort, there is only
one entrance gate to the entire fort and the
walls leading up to this have small windows
or openings on the top from which the Maratha soldiers could throw huge stones or pour
hot oil on the approaching enemy. Immediately after the narrow entrance door, in the
dark corner of the passage is a hidden cannon from where the soldiers could easily fire
at the enemy. The fort commands spectacular
views of the surrounding countryside of Rajgad, Torna and Makarandgad. The double
walls with corner bastions, gates with studded iron spikes and two dipmal (lantern towers) in the lower fort formed ideal beacons.
Once inside the fort, there are many walkways
and chambers leading to trap doors and steep
cliff falls so that the enemy could be deceived.
The Dakshin Ke Hanuman Idol
with the hand of Hanuman in
blessing posture
The breathtaking view of the Sahyadris from the Fort
En route inside the fort, the second gate is
called the Raj Marg. This was the gate from
which Shivaji used to come from his capital
Raigad, 65 kilometres away, on every Tuesdays and Fridays to offer his prayers to Goddess Bhavani. He would arrive on his horse
till the gate but would then be carried ahead
in a palanquin. As a sign of respect to Shivaji,
the gate has been closed for all visitors after
his demise.
power of the Maratha infantry.
The dark ashtabhuja (eight-handed) idol of
Goddess Bhavani draped in a sari is installed
in the inner shrine of the temple. This special
Gandaki Sheela (stone from river Gandaki) is
said to originally have been sourced from a
It is believed that Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj had the temple of Bhavani built in 1661 after he was unable to visit the original temple
of the goddess at Tuljapur. The temple, located on the eastern side of the lower fort, consists of wooden pillars about 50 feet long, 30
feet wide and 12 feet high. The entrance to the
temple is the Nagara Hall (Drum Hall) where
huge drums would be played during the various festivals. On display now are the original
artillery and cannons used by the Maratha
soldiers that give an idea of the strength and
9
Excursions:
The beautiful hill station
Mahabaleshwar and its
Venna Lake
Strawberry Shopping
The misty Panchgani
What to buy:
Visit the interesting Handicrafts Shop inside the
fort and shop for Indian
toys for kids, home décor
items, shawls, books and
more.
Raj Marg gate built for Shivaji’s entrance from Raigad
Interesting and rare books
on Shivaji’s life are available at the Sales Counter.
The artillery used by the Maratha Soldiers
river valley in Nepal. On entering the shrine,
besides the idol of the goddess one can notice a sword, which is also worshipped by the
faithful. It is the same sword belonging to
Shivaji’s main captain, Kanhoji Jedhe, who
had single-handedly killed 600 soldiers of
Afzal Khan’s troop in the battle of Pratapgad.
As a reward for his exemplary courage, the
sword was adorned with a diamond star.
For the construction and sustenance of any
fort, the most essential requirements are
stone and water. But how was it possible to
carry the stones from far-off areas to such a
height and build the entire fort within a span
of two years? This is where the Maratha foresight and intelligent planning came in handy.
At present, one can see four lakes surrounding the fort. These lakes were specially dug
to solve the twin purpose of supplying stones
for the construction of the fort as well as
serve as water reservoirs storing rain water
to be used by those who lived here as also for
the horses and elephants. Each of the lakes
is around 25 feet deep and can store enough
water for an entire year.
The authors are filmmakers and photographers with deep
interest in culture and
heritage.
10
A little ahead uphill from the temple, is the
temple of Lord Hanuman that was installed
here by Ramdas Swami, the guru of Shivaji
Maharaj. Ramdas Swami had established 11
Hanuman temples in the entire south Maharashtra, the seventh of which is inside
Pratapgad Fort, facing southwards. The distinctive feature of this idol is that it has a full
front profile of Lord Hanuman whereas in all
the other idols we only get to see one side of
his face. Also in contrast to the other idols of
One among the four lakes built by digging up the mountain
to serve as water storage and provide stones for building
the fort
Hanuman, where he is shown carrying the
gada or the mountain in one hand, here Lord
Hanuman is seen with his raised right hand.
The local folklore has it that Lord Hanuman
granted Shivaji the boon that Pratapgad Fort
would never be defeated by any enemy.
The Hanuman Temple marks the entry to
the main fort. The palace, meeting place,
the horses’ stables - everything is concealed
within the smaller fort. And the purpose
of the outer or lower fort was to guard this
main upper fort. This fort never saw defeat
by war, thus proving its architectural perfection. Even if the enemy would win over the
lower fort, the Maratha soldiers would any-
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Distance from
Mumbai: 210 kms
How to reach:
By Air: The nearest
domestic airport is Pune.
Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport, Mumbai
is the closest international
airport.
By Rail: Nearest railhead
is Vir Dasgaon.
The view from the upper fort
Must
Read
By Road: Pratapgad is
usually visited as a daytrip from Mahabaleshwar,
24 km away by road.
Otherwise one can also
take a State Transport bus
from Panvel to Poladpur
at night & then stay at
Poladpur ST stand for the
first ST to Wada (base
village). When you reach
Wada village you can hire
a car to the base of the
fort.
Where to stay:
Idol of Goddess Bhavani and the sword of Kanhoji Jedhe
way outnumber the enemy from the vantage
point of the upper fort. Secret tunnels leading
to the lower fort would also help in fighting
guerilla wars and attacking the enemy troops
from behind. Even the entrance to the upper
fort is through a small angular door, making
it safe from the attack of enemies straight on.
There are around 450 steps that one needs
to climb to reach the top of the fort. Even
though this seems to be difficult, it is worth
the effort considering the grand vista of the
Sahayadri mountain range overlooking the
fort apart from seeing and hearing about the
wonderful and inspiring tales of the Maratha
rule. ‘Pratap’ means valour and it can be seen
defined here in its full form.
Faster Fenay the popular character in
Marathi children’s literature, created by
author B.R.Bhagwat is now available in
English - “Faster Fenay at Fort Pratapgad”
translated into English by Tejas Modak
and published by Penguin Books.
Fafe and his classmates have come to the
legendary fort of Pratapgad on a school
trip. Things are going well till a massive
earthquake comes calling at midnight,
leaving everything scattered in its wake.
Join Fafe in this action-packed adventure
as he pieces the clues, bit by bit, till the
final nail-biting finish.
MTDC Holiday Resort
Mahad Naka
Tel: 02168-260318,
261318. Fax: 260300
Pratap Heritage
Valley View Road.
Tel: 02168-260071,
260078-79
What to eat:
Local Chhaas from the
stalls inside the fort after a
tiresome climb uphill
You can also shop for
fresh Strawberries from
Mahabaleshwar at the
bustling shops inside the
fort
11
Mumbai
Matheran
A Quaint Delight
Matheran
Susheela Nair | Photographs © Samir Madhani, Gaurav Issar, Yogesh Chavan
It may be Asia’s
tiniest hill station but
Matheran has loads to
offer by way of scenic
view points, long treks
through dense woods,
a pollution-free environment and a market
of curios, not to forget
the horse rides, says
Susheela Nair
12
Hill Station
Sometimes the journey can be as much fun
as the destination. Matheran, a quaint hill
station near Mumbai, is the perfect example.
From Neral Junction, a narrow gauge toy
train chugs its way around the green slopes,
through the thick forest cover and past
gushing streams. As the train winds its way
through this landscape, narrowly skirting
several drops on its journey, it passes through
a short tunnel, nicknamed the ‘one kiss tunnel’, and halts at three small stations, Jumma
Patti, Waterpipe (where water is filled up for
the steam engine) and Aman Lodge, before it
reaches Matheran, its destination. During the
two-hour ascent, food vendors hop on and
off, hawking their forest produce as the valley
glides by sedately.
At the Matheran Station, one can see a tiny
old steam engine mounted on a pedestal,
which served the populace of Matheran for
77 years. The Neral-Matheran Railway was
constructed from 1901 to 1907, at what was
A view from the toy train
Orange headed thrush
Monkeys
Toy train chugs its way through lush green tunnels
13
Monkeys won’t fail to welcome
you at Matheran
The proven way to explore Matheran- on horseback
From Porcupine Point
one can see the dramatic sunset, and you
can hear your own
voice thrown back at
Echo Point. Louisa
Point flaunts a beautiful plateau and the
ruins of the Prabhal
Fort and the many
grass-topped hills. The
Hart Point offers you a
view of the nightlights
of Mumbai.
then a staggering cost of Rs 16,00,000. The
railway was a welcome relief to the residents
who had to either trek or ride up while goods
were carried by porters and on horseback.
The mountain railway was introduced thanks
to the efforts of two gentlemen - Sir Adamjee
Peerbhoy, the sole owner of Matheran Railway and his son, Abdul, who earned the nickname ‘Matheran Railwaywala’ because of his
‘rare engineering skill’ in constructing the
rail line. The 20-km track is considered an
engineering marvel, as it cuts through steep
gradients and inhospitable terrain. But it was
Sir Adamjee Peerbhoy’s introduction of the
Matheran Hill Railway in 1907 that made the
journey as famous as the destination.
Matheran is out of bounds for vehicular traffic (except for an ambulance donated by a philanthropist), which accounts for the healthy,
clean and unpolluted environment unspoilt
by the signs of progress. It is the country’s
only ‘pedestrian’ hill station. Buses ply from
Neral to Matheran or one can drive up or hire
taxis, which stop at Dasturi car park where
an entry fee is levied. Matheran is strictly a
walking or riding town where horses and
hand-pulled carts are the only mode of transport. From Dasturi, it’s a 30-minute walk to
the centre, or you can hire a horse. In this
walker’s paradise, you can trudge along the
‘kutcha’ red-gravel road or the tiny railway
14
Train reaches its first stop- Jumma Patti, where travellers
can hop out for a quick bite
track. If walking distances is a problem, you
can opt for a palanquin or rickshaws handpulled by wiry mountain men. Those with an
equestrian flair can choose a horse among
the many that throng the horse stand in the
bazaar. Matheran is an eco-sensitive fragile
region, putting a cap on individual and other
development in this region.
History
Perched 803 metres above the sea level,
Matheran (which means ‘the forest on top of
a mountain’) was discovered in 1850 by Hugh
Poyntz Malet, the then Collector of Thane
district. Malet Spring marks the spot where
he once stopped to drink water from a spring
on a hilltop while camping around the village
of Chauk. He also built himself a house at this
15
It is an undulating hilltop cloaked in shady
trees and ringed by
walking trails leading to several vantage
points from where
one can have stunning views of the cliffs,
plains, grassy glades
and the mountain
range.
scenic spot. Lord Elphinstone, the former
Governor of Bombay, was so enamoured by
the scenic beauty of this haven that he built a
mansion here, called the Elphinstone Lodge.
Thanks to Lord Elphinstone, the road from
Neral to Matheran and the railway line came
into existence. He also laid the foundation for
its development into a hill station and sanatorium for the British, who looked for cooler
stations to get away from the heat.
The Landscape
It is an undulating hilltop cloaked in shady
trees and ringed by walking trails leading
to several vantage points from where one
can have stunning views of the cliffs, plains,
grassy glades and the mountain range. One
can hike one’s way through wooded pathways
winding through towering evergreen trees,
ferns and wild flowers to see the green-carpeted slopes and cliffs and the whorls of haze
or blue mist swirling down the mountains
into the gorges from these points. Matheran
has a sizable population of monkeys and they
will accompany you wherever you go. Hence
be wary of carrying foodstuffs in bags as these
risk being snatched away. The entire hill staToy train chugs its way through pristine mountains,
treating the travellers with some spectacular views
Matheran also offers Hand Rickshaws to people who
choose not to travel on horseback
The Steam engine and travellers take a refill
at Water Pipe Station
The train enters
One Kiss Tunnel, the name
says it all!
The winding path to peaceful Matheran, Photograph by Susheela Nair
16
Matheran is out of
bounds for vehicular
traffic which accounts
for the healthy, clean
and unpolluted environment unspoilt by
the signs of progress.
It is the country’s only
‘pedestrian’ hill station.
Lords Point offers great adventure opportunities to adventure junkies
tion can be traversed by foot in the space of a
single day and holds the distinction of being
the tiniest hill station in Asia!
Night walks, travellers looking for some offbeat adventure
and fun can indulge in night treks from Matheran to Neral.
These treks also offer great star gazing opportunities
Matheran has 38 designated lookout points
spread across three different ranges, covering an area of eight square miles and an 18mile circumference. Many of these places at
the edge of escarpments of this hill station
still bear English names and each point has a
peculiar charm and interest of its own. Some
of them are attributed to a geographical position, natural feature or a famous person. Leisurely walks lead you through languid trails,
Swimming is not the only way to cross a lake, Rope Lake crossing at Charlotte Lake
17
MTDC resort offers the most comfortable stay
MTDC resort heritage building
each one leading to a vantage point from
which one can soak in the charm of the hills.
The old world charm is still discernible in the
British and Parsi homes en route to the view
points. Hugh Malet’s rambling old mansion
called ‘The Byke’, beautifully restored by an
hotelier, is one of them.
Eatable native to Matheran
From Porcupine Point one can see the dramatic sunset, and you can hear your own
voice thrown back at Echo Point. Louisa
Point flaunts a beautiful plateau and the ruins of the Prabhal Fort and the many grasstopped hills. The Hart Point offers you a view
Restaurant
Matheran is also known for
genuine Kolhapuri Chappals
Nightlife at Matheran Market
Play garden for children in the heart of the market
18
19
From top to bottom:
Yellow Thigh Spider, Konkan
Bush Frog, Poisonous Mushroom, Lesser False Vampire
Bats, Bamboo Pit Viper, Brown
Wood Owl.
of the nightlights of Mumbai. You can reach
the valley below Tree Hill down the path
known as ‘Shivaji’s Ladder’. It is so called because the Maratha leader is said to have used
it. From Rambagh Point, Khandala and Karjat can be spotted, and Alexander Point provides views of Chauk Valley. From Panorama
Point, almost 5 kms north of the market, you
can get a bird’s eye view of Neral town and
on a clear day, even as far as Mumbai in the
west. Another interesting place to unwind is
the Charlotte Lake, fringed by forest, with the
dam at one end and the Pisarnath Mandir on
the other.
Curio Shopping
A trip to Matheran would be incomplete without a visit to the main bazaar on M G Road
where one can shop around for the famous
chikki, leather footwear, riding boots, straw
hats, dried flowers, bags and other knickknacks. Salted chana and fresh honey are
20
the other ‘must-buys’ from the bazaar. Also
try the scrumptious fudge. The street is also
lined with provision stores and souvenir stalls
selling walking sticks, riding whips and other
paraphernalia. You can indulge in street cuisine here, sip cups of piping hot masala chai
over nibbles of vada pav or try out the snacks
in small eateries or the bakeries.
Best Season
Pleasant weather throughout the year but
magical during the monsoons when the hillsides are draped in swathes of green and colourful wild flowers. Temperatures vary from
16 degrees Celsius in winter to 32 degrees
Celsius in summer.
Location
2,636 feet above sea level in the Western
Ghats, 22 kms from Karjat.
ips
Travel T
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r being a
known fo r as posis
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Math
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sitive are plastic bags
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Late in the dark nights, leopards also pay a visit to Matheran!
Susheela Nair is a
Freelance Food, Travel
& Lifestyle Writer and
Photographer. She has
contributed content,
articles and images
to various leading national publications,
travel guide books and
websites.
Distance from
Mumbai: 90 kms
How to reach:
A view from Sunset Point at Matheran
By Air: Nearest airport is
Mumbai, 110 kms away.
By Road: From Neral,
a taxi can be hired. The
distance is 8 kms.
By Rail: Mini train – 21
kms from Neral (two
hours). Check if the train
services are regular as
they are suspended during
the monsoon.
Where to stay:
The resort closest to the
arrival point is the MTDC
Holiday Resort, Dasturi
Naka, Tel: 02148-230277.
For information contact:
Maharashtra Tourism
Development Corporation on 022- 22026713,
22027762, 20411678.
-
A ride that you will never forget- A toy train
Website:
www.mtdcindia.com
21
Mumbai
Pune
An Indomitable Spirit
Maharshi Karve
Text and Photographs © Maharshi Karve Stree Shikshan Samstha
At a time when educating women was
unheard of and any
such attempt was instantly frowned upon
by society, Maharshi
Dhondo Keshav Karve
took it upon himself to
kindle a revolutionary
movement across Maharashtra by empowering women. This he
did alongside working for the upliftment
of the child widow.
It made Anna, as he
was known, a social
reformer that India
had never come across
before.
Indian philosophy believes that the descent
of God (āvatār) occurs for the ascent of mankind. More than 150 years ago, when womanhood was a curse and half the population
– that of women - was confined to the restrictive bonds of an orthodox, unjust patriarchal
society, a prophet returned to the salvation
of womanhood. His mission was to enlighten
and empower women. The visionary was the
virtuous son of the land of Konkan, Maharshi
Dhondo Keshav Karve.
Born on April 18, 1858 in Shervali, near Murud in Konkan, Maharshi Karve alias Anna
belonged to a very pious, diligent and meticulous family. His father was an accountant. Anna was raised in a disciplined, dignified atmosphere. His maternal family was
progressive and this quality was absorbed
by Anna’s sensible and liberal mind. Though
the platform for his reformist activities was
strong because of his progressive family
background, the journey towards his mission
was certainly not a bed of roses.
Early Life and Education
Anna started his own education in a small
village school, run by a village teacher. Till
the fourth standard, he was in a government
school and later on moved to an English medium school for further schooling. The scholarly personality of Anna was a fine blend
of Eastern and Western culture. However,
despite receiving an English education, his
22
family never allowed him to break away from
the roots of Indian culture. He studied various Indian scriptures. Anna was an excellent
mathematician but had a little problem with
languages. He overcame this with the help of
his teacher, Soman Guruji. An interesting aspect of his early life is that he used to read a
newspaper in front of the villagers, which laid
Personality
Maharshi Dhondo Keshav
Karve (Anna)
Island Fort Janjira
23
the foundation of his social involvement that
was to follow.
For all that, though, there were various hurdles constantly blocking his path towards
completing his education. Sometimes there
were health-related issues or at other times it
was the non-availability of educational facilities. But his mission and goals were unwavering and could never be interrupted by such
petty matters. When he shifted to Mumbai
for further education, he came in contact with
cerebral and progressive companions such as
Purushottam Damle and Naraharpant Joshi.
Anna secured his BA degree from the Elphinstone College and as a student displayed exemplary qualities of self-reliance, self-respect
and independent spirit.
Family and Early Social Work
Baya Karve
According to the tradition in practice in that
period, Anna married at the young age of 15.
This was a difficult phase in his life as he had
to manage family responsibilities and also
further his education. In August 1879, after
the death of his father, Anna had to shoulder the financial burden of his family as well.
Thus, he started taking tuitions. What also
egged him on was the social mission that he
had undertaken, for which he kept a part of
his earnings aside. And that’s how the Murud
Fund Scheme was established through which
he encouraged the villagers of Murud to contribute some amount for social welfare. This
was also a reflection of his excellent financial
acumen. Sadly though, his wife, Radhabai,
died an untimely death and Anna, in memory
of his wife, started a women’s welfare fund
with a contribution of Rs 500, a huge sum in
those days.
Influence of the Indian Renaissance
Having finally completed his education, Anna
was now in a position to take up a lucrative
government job. But his mission was not to
seek a life of affluence and comforts. The period was that of Indian renaissance and the
priorities of the contemporary society were
nationalism and social reform. Reformists
such as Raja Ram Mohan Roy and Pt. Ishwarchandra Vidyasagar from Bengal and Gopal Ganesh Agarkar, Balshastri Jambhekar
and Mahatma Phule from Maharashtra were
already focusing on the uplift of widows. All
this influenced Anna’s course of action in the
years to come. Therefore, the plight of the
child widows was what Anna devoted his attention to and the weapon he chose for fighting against the evils of society was education.
Maharshi Karve started this exceptional jour-
Anna and Anandibai
Handwork activity at Hingne
Cookery demonstration
Remarried widows and their families
24
ney by taking an oath that he would give the
child widows their lost dignity and the right
to live life with pride. The emotional trigger
for taking up the case was a poem he read on
June 12, 1883 that narrated the pathetic state
of the child widows, and the first step he took
towards his goal was his resolution to marry
a child widow. He kept his promise and married Godu Joshi in 1893. After marriage, she
entered Anna’s life as Anandibai Karve alias
Baya Karve. Of course the consequences were
not at all pleasant. He was boycotted by the
villagers of Murud for marrying a widow. But
Anna’s indomitable spirit did not stop here
and his next step was the establishment of
the ‘Widow Remarriage Society’.
Educating Women
Anna
Prof. Einstein and Prof. Karve
Anna had, in the meanwhile, shifted to Pune
and started working as a professor of Mathematics in Fergusson College. In his leisure
time he continued with his social work and
established Anath Balikashram with the help
of a prominent social reformist of Pune, Dr.
Sir Ramkrishna Bhandarkar, thus laying the
foundation for the educational empowerment of women. In 1899, a deadly epidemic of
plague gripped Pune and Anna was forced to
shift his ashram from Gore Wada to Hingne
and it took permanent shape there with both
Anna and his wife working hard to provide
education to women.
A decade after this success, Anna now desired
to take the project further. The goal was to
establish a university for women on the lines
of the Japanese Women’s University. This he
finally did with the help and
strong support of many likeminded reformists and influential political leaders. For
instance, philanthropist and
well-known industrialist Dr.
Vitthaldas Thakersey donated
Rs 15 lakh to the university,
which came to be known as the
SNDT University, Mumbai.
Stitching class
The Banyan Tree Effect
SNDT University, Mumbai
From what had been planted as
a sapling, the Ashram now took
on the proportions of a Banyan tree. The earlier rejection
that the Ashram faced by the
parents of young widows was
now replaced by optimism and
hope so that not only did the
Mahilashram Lab
25
Maharshi Karve
started this exceptional
journey by taking an
oath that he would
give the child widows
their lost dignity and
the right to live life
with pride. The emotional trigger for taking up the case was a
poem he read on June
12, 1883 that narrated
the pathetic state of
the child widows, and
the first step he took
towards his goal was
his resolution to marry
a child widow.
New Zopadi
Cummins College
Venubai Vasatigriha
Architecture College
Mahilashram High School
MBA College
Mahila Niwas, Deccan
School of Fashion Technology
Kanyashala, Wai
Nursing College
Maharshi Karve Stree
Shikshan Samstha,
(MKSSS), Pune - the
116-year-old parent
body has been committed to “Empowerment
of women through education”. The Institution
has a century long
history of dedicated
work towards making
women educated and
self-reliant. MKSSS,
Pune was established
in 1896 by the great
visionary and social
worker Bharat Ratna
Maharshi Dhondo Keshav Karve to provide
shelter to destitute
women.
26
parents willingly send their girls to the Ashram but also requested Anna to build a hostel for them. With donations for this purpose
pouring in from all sections of society, Anna
established the Maharshi Karve Stree Shikshan Samstha. Today, the Samstha can boast
of being one of the oldest institutions with a
history that dates back 116 years. There are,
at present, over 25,000 girls procuring their
academic qualifications under the aegis of the
Samstha. Geographically too, the Samstha
rapidly expanded beyond the peripheries of
Pune to cover Kamshet, Wai, Satara, Ratnagiri and Nagpur while its academic expansion
led to the Samstha offering professional degree courses in arts, commerce, engineering,
architecture, management, fashion technology, nursing, information technology, and so
on.
Karve remains unshaken in the raging tempest of time. It remains like an emblem of
human culture and civilisation for ages. The
Maharshi Karve Stree Shikshan Samstha is
committed to strengthen the second wheel
of society, i.e. women.” The Indian government conferred on Anna the most prestigious
award, the Bharat Ratna. Anna continued to
be active in his chosen field till the age of 104.
And that was an achievement too!
Rewards and Recognition
Anna’s noble task was acknowledged and acclaimed by eminent people like Albert Einstein, Madame Montessori and Rabindranath
Tagore. The former president of India, Pratibha Patil, honoured Anna by saying, “The
noble mission of great people like Maharshi
Development:
Maharshi Karve Stree
Shikshan Samstha,
(MKSSS), Pune has
diversified branches
all over Maharashtra
in India and about
25,000 girl students
are learning at present. Over the period
of last 116 years, the
Institution has grown
like a banyan tree and
at present, it is running 60 educational
and other institutes.
These institutes are
located at Pune, Satara, Wai, Ratnagiri,
Nagpur, Kamshet etc.
All these institutes are
meant only for girls or
women.
The Bharat Ratna Medal
Karve Memorial
Karve Memorial entrance
Megh Dambari
Maharshi Anna statue
27
Mumbai
Pune
Draping it ‘Pune’ style
The woven sari
Brinda Gill | Photographs © Satyajit Gill
Courtesy: Shri Chintamani Silk Mills Pvt Ltd, Theur
From among the
many saris that you
will find in stores, the
‘Pune’ sari will always stand out for its
typical pattern, cloth
and weave. Tracing
its history, the author
finds that the this sari
also represents daring
entrepreneurship that
has overcome many an
obstacle.
28
Art & Craft
Heritage, transition, fusion. These are the
words that come to mind when one feels and
drapes a ‘Pune’ (formerly known as Poona)
brand sari. It’s after all not just a sari. It has
its own unique identity, created by a set of
expert weavers who migrated from Andhra
Pradesh to Pune in Maharashtra and helped
set up a niche line of saris that has found
fame across the globe. The ones who achieved
this belonged to the Padmashali community
– ‘padma’ means lotus and ‘shali’ means
weaver. Quickly acquiring a reputation for
their superior quality of fabric construction,
constant inflow of new designs and reasonable prices, these saris were primarily made by
master craftsmen of the Kunden, Methapelli
and Vilasagar clan.
Weaving workshops came to be set up in areas like Gunj Peth and Bhawani Peth in the
old parts of the city and according to some records, till 1970 there were about 3,000 looms
in Pune. Unfortunately, even though the saris
continued to be in demand, production challenges related to labour and the fact that they
had to be hand-crafted began to take a toll
and the weaving houses started to fade out.
One man, however, stood his ground. Subhash Kunden (65), whose father, Narsayya
Sayyana Kunden, wove saris and went to sell
them door-to-door, held the belief that all
was not lost and that the production of ‘Poona’ saris could continue to be a viable business enterprise.
The idea was to overcome the problems posed
by the fact that it was a cottage industry and
too dependent on human expertise. Also,
with fashion having taken a turn towards
western styles in India, the need of the hour
was to give ‘Pune’ saris a touch of glamour.
And that is precisely what Subhash did. To
know more about how he managed to usher
in this transformation, you must take the
road to Theur, located about 25 kilometres
from Pune. Theur is famous for its old ChinThe saris are woven
with an intricate
checked field, detailed
borders with multiple bands of different
designs, striking colour
combinations, good
quality and fine yarn,
and a higher thread
count in the weave.
Pune cotton-silk sari with Alankar Temple border
29
tamani Temple dedicated to Lord Ganesha,
the Lord of removal of obstacles. This is one
of the ashtavinayakas, one of the eight revered Ganesha temples in Maharashtra with
naturally formed images of the deity. On the
way to the temple, and taking its name from
the shrine, is the Shri Chintamani Silk Mills
Pvt Ltd, a modest complex that is credited
with being the only weaving centre of these
saris.
So what is it about ‘Pune’ saris that gives them
such a singular image? The saris are woven
with an intricate checked field, detailed borders with multiple bands of different designs,
striking colour combinations, good quality
and fine yarn, and a higher thread count in
the weave. Therefore, when Subhash decided
to carry on with the family tradition, the first
thing he did was to play upon these primary
motifs of this sari to create a further range of
eye-catching checks of different dimensions
and forms, beautiful plain colours as well as
mesmerizing cross-colour effects. A choice of
border designs - some broad, some narrow added beauty to the saris.
Meanwhile, when the wane of the handlooms
started to reflect on his business due to the
dearth of skilled handloom weavers in the
80s and 90s, Subhash did not let the looms
fall silent. He set up a power loom production unit with dobby looms where authentic
‘Pune’ saris as well as ‘fusion weaves’ with a
difference could be produced. He understood
that power looms would speed up the weaving process while retaining the role of the
weaver and relieving him of the tedium of
work. At the same time, this would increase
production and productivity while enhancing the quality of the weave. To achieve this
purpose, land was acquired in Theur and the
company was founded in 1995. The unit presently has 100 looms with a workforce of 100
people. While the men are employed in processing the yarn for weaving and in the weaving process, the women are employed in the
packaging unit.
A visit to the factory reveals a variety of textiles for sale lining the open shelves of the
retail outlet located in the first room of the
production complex. The rhythm of looms at
Apart from the pure cotton saris that have
cotton yarn in the weft and warp, he developed saris of Art silk warp and cotton weft
which infused the weaves with a charming
sheen, and later substituted Art silk with polyester yarn. These saris gained popularity as
they are durable, require low maintenance,
can be machine-washed and have eco-friendly colours. Subhash also expanded the product range to include dress materials for the
traditional attire of churidar/salwar, kurta
and dupatta yardage sets, each of 2.5 metres.
The warping machine- section reed
The warping machine
30
work that wafts through tells of the weaving
process that keeps up the production of the
textiles. While Subhash is at the mill every
day to keep track of the production and innovations in the product range, his sons Anil, an
MBA, and Sunil, a BE in Textile Engineering,
look after the production and development
aspects respectively as well as the day-to-day
smooth running of the mill.
Explaining the process, Subhash says that
quality yarn is ordered from different centres, dyed as needed and then brought to the
mill. The yarn dyeing is customized to match
the demand for different colours and shades.
A superior quality of the yarn is a must to
lend the weaves evenness of colour and absolute smoothness. Quality zari yarn is also
procured. This yarn is wound on large cones
and loaded on to the warping machine. There
is also a large drum around which upto 6,000
yarns can be wound. The yarn from the cones
on the creel is selected and carefully wound
as needed for the warp for the colour combination and design to be woven. Once the
yarn is wound around the beam, it is taken to
Weft yarn being wound around pirns
the adjacent room. Here every single thread
is drawn into the heddles by hand and then
into the reed.
In another room, weft yarn is automatically
wound around multiple pins which are used
for weaving particular designs, such as for
the borders, etc. Weaving takes place on the
dobby looms with the dobby placed above the
loom playing the all important role of creating the designs. The dobby has a lattice on
which the pattern is set. As the lattice moves,
its pegs come in contact with the dobby,
which in turn lifts warp yarns for the pattern.
While a maximum of four colours is used for
the weft, up to ten colours can be used on the
warp. At any time there are cones of 30 to 40
colours in stock. All these factors lend themselves to an impressive number of permutations and combinations for a fantastic colour
combination in the weaves.
The employees work one eight-hour shift
with one weaver overseeing the weaving of
four looms at one time. It typically takes twoand-a-half hours to weave one sari and 30
meters of yardage can be woven over a day’s
work. The warp is set for up to 500 metres
at one go and each sari length is 6.25 metres
that includes a blouse piece. Even if the warp
yarns are the same throughout, variations in
the look of the sari can be created by changing the colours of the weft yarns. For dress
materials, the kurta, salwar and dupatta
material are woven on different looms with
the capacity to weave 200 dress pieces in one
go. The monthly production is about 10,000
saris and suits.
A set of samples of different borders, each
Yarn being drawn by hand
31
Pune sari with Surya checks in the field
Quickly acquiring a
reputation for their
superior quality of
fabric construction,
constant inflow of new
designs and reasonable prices, these saris
were primarily made
by master craftsmen of
the Kunden, Methapelli
and Vilasagar clan.
Educated in Economics, Brinda Gill enjoys
studying the wealth of
a nation through its
history and living
heritage manifest in
crafts and textiles.
32
Fabric woven with warp yarns of different colours with hand done block print
ips
Buying T
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fo
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t
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Loo
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a Pune s it is genuine
you buy
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material. the Kunden fam
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textile fr
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enterpri
Pune saris with Gomi border
Model wearing Pune sari with Narayan Peth border
executed in a variety of colour combinations,
with traditional and popular names offers a
ready reckoner for retailers who place bulk
orders for saris and dress materials. A variety
of borders are created by varying the number of bands and their placement in the border, juxtaposing patterned bands with plain
bands and featuring different designs of the
bands such as rudraksha, floral, diamond
and pointed twill, among others. The borders
go by names such as Narayan Peth, Poona
Zari, Saheli, Alankar Temple, Sujata, Damini,
Karuna and Geeta Kota.
The company’s recent value-addition initiatives include block printing of woven materials which blend traditional and trendy design
to offer customers something new. So it is
that by blending skill, experience and vision,
the third generation of the Kunden family
is constantly working with tradition to ensure customers and textile lovers return to
the stores to check out the latest offering in
‘Pune’ saris and dress materials.
Note:
For further details, visit:
www.poonasaree.com
33
Amravati
Mumbai
A Region of ‘Immortal’
Connections
Amravati District
Chandrashekhar Gupta
Photographs © Om Pundkar, Pranay Tiwari, Rahul Gupta
Literally meaning ‘the
city of immortals’, Amravati has long had its
place of honour in both
legend and history. We
turn the spotlight on
its long heritage and
many tourist attractions.
34
Travel Circuit
Amravati literally means ‘the city of immortals’ i.e. the gods. Tradition links it to the
abode of the goddess Amba (mother), whose
shrine is located here. It was the traditional
capital of the legendary Vidarbha Janapada
and the name of the capital city, Kundinapura, is still preserved in the form of a place
called Kaundinyapur. It is said that Rukmini,
daughter of King Bhima or Bhishmaka used
to come here to worship Amba, their tutelary
deity, from Kundinapura daily. King Bhima
or Bhishmaka or Bhima Vaidarbhi, associated with this land, is found mentioned in
various literary sources such as the Ramayana, Mahabharata, Nala-Damayanti Akhyana
and more. According to legend, Rukmini was
abducted by Krishna from here. Ekavira, the
mother of Parashuram is also enshrined here.
Both are in the form of Tandala (oblong lithic
representation of head) decorated with precious ornaments on the head, nose, ears and
neck ornaments. Kaundinyapur was excavated archaeologically by the state’s Directorate
of Archaeology & Museums in the late sixties
of the last century, as well as more recently.
The results revealed the archaeological importance of the site dating right from the prehistoric period up to late mediaeval times.
The modern-day district Amravati is situated
in present day Maharashtra state’s northeastern portion of Berar - ancient Vidarbha.
Amba gate, Amravati
Fortification at Achalpur
35
Khidki gate
Funerary ground of the Nawab
family, Heerapura gate,
Sultanpur fort
Jawahar gate
Hauj Katora
It is bordered by the districts of Ninar and
Betul to the north, Nagpur and Wardha to
the east and Buldhana, Akola and Yavatmal
to the south. The region is rich in flora and
fauna thanks due to adequate rainfall and
good climatic conditions, and is famous for
the launch of Project Tiger in Dharani, Melghat. It also has a tribal belt housing the
Korkus. Semadoh, a forest village, 48 kilometres from Achalpur on Dharani Road, is
a silent peaceful settlement with a beautiful
resort, a museum, a lecture hall and camping
hut managed by the Forest Department.
Purna, Wardha, Chandrabhaga and Shahnur
are the important rivers. Sirpan, a tributary
of the Chandrabhaga and the Bichan, which
36
flows through the town, had an aqueduct
through which water was supplied to Achalpur, the remains of which can be seen near
the Dullah Daravaza. In fact, the region has
many remains of its past, one such being the
ruins in the vicinity of village Datura. Called
Satabudaki, this was a multi-storied construction situated in the midst of a tank on
the Dharani route. Also of interest is a sculpture of Karttikeya at Achalpur, as well as
several Vaishnava icons in Vadner-Bhujang,
a Yadava inscription on the wall that is now
illegible, a temple at Lasur, etc. These ancient
ruins trace the origin of the Mahanubhava
sect.
History
The name Vidarbha has gone through various changes such as Vidabha, Vedabbha,
Varadatata, Varhada, Varada, Barar, Berar,
etc. These are mostly the ‘prakritised’ form
of Vidarbha or Varadatata. The latter name
shows its connection with the river Varada
as mentioned in the Ain-e-Akabari (Varada
rude asta va tata kinara asta). The meaning of
‘Varhada’, given as a bridegrooms’ marriage
party member, in the old district gazetteer of
1911 seems rather mischievous.
Cotton plant
Cotton, ready to despatch
The Vakatakas ruled over this area between
the third to the sixth centuries of the Christian
era. Though they followed the Vedic-Puranic
religion, they gave equal patronage to other
faiths. One Buddhist vihara and some incomplete rock-hewn caves were carved during
their reign at Salburdi in the Morshi tehsil of
the district. Budhha seated in Pralambha padasana and the Dharmmachakrapravarttana
mudra with the nagas Sunda and Upasunda
supporting the stem of the lotus seat is the
only carved sculpture here besides the Dvarashakha with Chaitya motifs as seen in the
caves of western India. The cave houses Panchaparameshwaras of the Mahanubhava sect
which originated in the district in the 13th
century. Riddhpur is the most holy place of
the Mahanubhavas. Salbardi and Riddhpur,
both in the Morshi taluka, are places of importance known for their rich historical and
cultural background along with a picturesque
landscape. Annual fairs are held here which
attract a great number of people from in and
around the district.
disguises. Draupadi, while serving the queen
as her hairdresser (Sairandhri) was harassed
by Kichaka, brother of the queen. Kichaka
was killed by Bhima. Chikhala and Kicha
being synonymous with mud, it is said that
this valley was earlier called ‘Kichakadara’
which subsequently turned into Chikhaldara.
Bairat, the highest place in the Melghat division of the Satpura range, is close to this place
and is connected with King Virata’s capital. It
was a capital place during the Mughal period. After conquering Vidarbha, Akbar issued
coins with the mint name Barar. Some of the
silver coins bear the figure of a small bird,
which appears to be a migratory fowl.
The Chikhaldara plateau is considered the
sanitarium of Vidarbha. During the British
period, it was converted into a civil station.
The Melghat area, comprising Chikhaldara
and Dharni, enjoys good climate and rainfall.
The picturesque landscape, hilly and plain
tracts, rivers and rivulets make for a great
landscape. The presence of a linear bird on
Chikhaldara – The Hills of Legend
Chikhaldara, situated at an altitude of 3,664
metres above the sea level, is full of natural,
historical and mythical treasures. It is associated with the killing of Kichaka by the Pandav
Bhimasen as mentioned in the Mahabharata.
As per the terms laid by Duryodhana, the
Pandavas had to spend a year in exile without exposing their identity. They took refuge
in the city, ruled by King Virata, in various
Durga-e-Rahmani
37
Emperor Akbar’s silver minted at Barar reflects the fact that this place was associated
with migratory birds, which continues till
today. In the old Central Provinces District
Gazetteers of Amraoti district, we find a reference, as noted by naturalist Lt Col McMaster in May 1870, that states, “In the Melghat,
as might be expected, are many varieties not
common in these parts of India.” Most of the
migratory birds can be found at the tanks of
Javala, Shahpur, Malkhed and Bhanvar villages.
Some of these birds sighted here include:
Ochromela Nigrorufa, the black and orange
fly-catcher, otherwise only found on the Nilgiris and in Ceylon.
Cyornis Tickelha, tickelts blue red breast
common in Central India.
Myiophomus Horsheldii, the Malabar whistling thrush, found near Chikalda.
Hypsipetes Ganeesa, the Ghat Black Bulbul.
Oriolus Ceylonesis, the southern black-headed oriole.
Mahaganapati, Bahiram
38
jhunka made of besan was a favourite dish
in Vidarbha, which was often accompanied
by bharit, thecha and yoghurt. Now it has
become very rare due to the non-availability
of jowar and the changing tastes of the people. Wani, a particular species of local jowar
used for preparing a special type of hurda, is
a memorable classical dish. Pudachi sambar
vadi, chirdi, thalipitha are the typical snacks.
Vange (brinjal), potato stuffed with spices
and all types of leafy vegetables are prepared
and liked here. Saoji mutton and kombadi
rassa are non-vegetarian preparations.
Fairs & Festivals
The Amravati district has a mixed population of Hindus, Muslims, Christians, Parsis,
Corvus Culminatus, the Indian Corby (the faamong others, besides Korkus, the tribals
miliar serial pest of
who have mainly
the plains is Corvus
settled in the MelSplenders, the grey
ghat region, esDid you know?
crow).
pecially
around
• Cotton was the main agricultural produce of the disDharni.
Apart
from
Both varieties of the
trict in the colonial period. It was exported to England
the
festivals
of
their
green pigeon Crocothrough
Mumbai
and
used
by
the
handloom
weavers.
individual
faith,
pus Phoenicopteryx
fairs and festivals
and C Chlorigaster,
• Paan (betel), kharbuj (melon), ratalu (sweet potatoes),
have been taking
and both the grey
san (jute) etc were some of the other cash crops grown
place here since anand
red
jungle
here.
Iron
ore
of
laterite
origin,
manganese,
coal,
mucient times, some of
fowls, Gallus Sonwhich are:
ram,
sandstone
and
trap
are
the
minerals
of
the
district.
neratii and Gallus
Ferruginess.
Shri Kshetra Bahiram
River Sipna, Kolkas
• Gawilgarh is a fort popular with the tourists. It is cred-
Bahiram Jatra
Varhadi
Cuisine
ited to the Abhir (Gawli) kings. Farista, a Muslim histo-
Jowar, urad, bajra,
masur, wheat and
gram are the main
cereal crops of the
district.
Sesame,
linseed, sunflower,
turmeric, chillies,
onion, potato and
melon are produced
here. Earlier, coffee
and tea plantation
was also practiced.
Bhakri made of
jowar or bajra and
Bahamani king. It was repaired and also improved upon
A big fair running a
month long is held
at Bahiram during
the winter (PaushPhalgun). Bahiram
is situated in the
Ghat about 20 kms
from Achalpur. A
big rock slab is enshrined here, which
was earlier worshipped by both
Hindus and Muslims. Nowadays, an
idol of Bahiram besmeared with ver-
rian, attributed its construction to Ahmed Shah Wali, a
by Fateh-Ullah Imadul Mulk, the founder of the Imadshahi dynasty (1488 AD). Of notable interest are the gates
(fort arches), mosque and the guns of Gawilgarh. After
the fall of the Bhonslas in the battles of Sitabardi and
Nagpur, Gawilgarh too was conquered by the British.
• Sant Devdas Gadge Baba, Tukdoji Maharaj, Achyut Maharajji, Sarvashri Bhide and Dadasaheb Khaparde are some
of the sons of the soils related to this district. The Sufi
poet of repute, Ghulam Hussain Eilichpuri, who wrote in
Dakhini Hindi, is rightly called the ‘Khusro of the Deccan’.
Bahiram Jatra
Tales of The Past
Traditionally, Amravati district forms part of the great forest Dandakaranya, which is still being mentioned during the ‘Sankalpa’ ritual. The story of Dandakaranya is interesting and is not merely a myth but the exploration
of a scientific phenomenon, which took place several thousand years ago. The episode is narrated in Valmiki’s
Ramayana and its references are echoed in subsequent works e.g. ‘Jataka Katha’, Kautilya’s Arthashastra, etc.
It is stated that a king named Dandaka ruled over a big empire comprising the kingdoms of Vidarbha, Atthaka,
Dandaka, Kalinga, etc. Once Dandaka was cursed that his empire would be ruined, by his guru, Ushana Bhargava.
A lot of ash, earth and fire fell upon the entire area so that the land was destroyed and abandoned. A huge thick
jungle grew on the land subsequently and was named after the king as Dandakaranya.
There is also another legend associated with this region. This we find in the treaties of Malavikagnimitra written
by the great poet laureate Kalidasa. The drama describing the Shungan time (2nd century BC) is based on a
contemporary plot. In the play, Agnimitra, the son of Pushyamitra and the governor of Vidisha, the then capital of
Dasharna Janapada, divided Vidarbha amongst two brothers, Yajnasena and Madhavasena, with the river Varada
(modern day Wardha) as the border between the kingdoms.
Amravati enjoyed the rule of a branch of the Rashtrakutas who probably ruled from Achalpur in the post Vakataka
period. Through the imperial Rashtrakutas of Malkhed, Chalukyas, Yadavas of Devagiri, Abhiras, Nizam Shahis
of Ahmednagar, Bahamanis, Itmadshahis of Gawilgarh, Mughals, Nizams of Hyderabad and Bhonslas of Nagpur,
it fell under various crowns at different periods. A significant role was played during the freedom movement
by the region’s local leaders. Additionally, the Nawabs of Elichpur (Achalpur) have added shades to the culture
of the region. Their copper coins bearing the figure of the galloping tiger are impressive. They are known as
‘Wyaghrambari’.
The Vaidarbhi maidens were famous for their beauty and virtue. Princes eager to marry them used to come
here to try their luck in ‘swayamvara’ i.e. a bride’s selection of her groom. For this reason Vidarbha was called
Sabharashtra. To name a few, Keshini, Indumati, Damayanti and Rukmini may be mentioned here who were
married to Sagara, Aja, Nala and Krishna respectively. The romance of the last two couples is well adapted by
some poets of Sanskrit and Marathi languages. Kaundinyapura, Amravati and Bhatakuli are the places associated
with the Krishna-Rukmini story. Bhojakata and Sabharashtra are also found mentioned in the inscriptions of the
Vakatakas, who too ruled over this region.
The Vakatakas were senior contemporaries of the imperial Guptas. They were also their relatives. Prabhavatigupta, the daughter of Chandragupta, was given to Rudrasena Vakataka in marriage. This has been established
through a copper plate inscription found at Riddhapur in Amravati district. Another copper plate grant was
found from the village Chammaka, also in this district. The interesting thing is that the village Chammaka is
called Charmānka in the grant, which was issued by Pravarasena, the son of Prabhavatigupta. The village name
Charmānka is significant as it literally means a place well known for leather. In reality also this area is famous for
its fauna – especially the domestic bovine breed viz. Umarda, Khamgaon, Melghat and other breeds. Naturally
the hide (leather) produce is comparatively quite good from this area.
Excursions:
• Narnala (fort), Karanja,
Sirpur (Jain temples) in
Akola district, Maharashtra.
• Shegaon (temple of Sant
Gajanan Maharaj) in Buldhana district, Maharashtra.
• Gurukul Mozari (Rashtrasant Tukdoji Maharaj
ashram) in Amravati
district, Maharashtra.
• Also interesting are the
archaeological excavations
at Tulajapur Gadhi near
Chandur which confirmed
proto-historic (chalcolithic-neolithic) evidence of
the site.
39
Bahiram Jatra
million, resembling Hanuman or Bhairava, is
installed against that rock. All sort of things,
edible, artistic and handicraft items, cattle
are brought and sold here. Touring talkies,
amusement stalls, roller-coasters and rides
are the main attraction.
Urs of Chilam Shah Wali
An urs (festival) is held in memory of a local
Muslim saint, Chilam Shah Wali, annually,
to celebrate his birth and demise days. His
tomb lies to the east of the old Amravati Civil
Station, Maltekdi.
Salbardi Shivaratri Jatra
The author is Retd.
Prof. and Head-AIHC
& Archaeology Dept.
and Dir. Dept. of Travel & Tourism, Nagpur
University, Nagpur
40
On the occasion of Maha Shivaratri, a big
jatra is held at Salbardi, situated on the bank
of the river Maru. Mythology relates the place
with the Ramayana of the desertion of Sita by
Rama, the birth of Lava and Kusha and the
Uttara Kanda story. Col. Meadows Taylor,
stationed here in 1857, has recorded his anecdotes. The annual jatra for Mahashivaratri
ips
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ip
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Plan you elghat, Chikhald
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a visit to oh.
ad
and Sem
Sunset point, Kolkas
is held here when the cave temple with a dark
underground narrow passage gets packed
with devotees and adventurers alike.
da village is on the opposite bank and an annual mela in honour of Vitthala and Rukmai
is held here on Kartika Pournima.
Kartika Paurnima Mela of Kaundinyapur
Riddhapur Fairs
The place represents the mythical capital of
ancient Vidarbha mentioned as Kundinapura
in the epics and the puranas. Archaeological
excavations of the site prove its antiquity in
remote proto-historical period and excavations have revealed coins and a seal of a dynasty with Bhadra-ending names who ruled
between the Shunga-Satavahana dynasties.
On the habitation mound locally known as
Bhima-Tekdi, a medieval temple enshrining
Vitthala and Rukmai is situated. It has been
built using the Islamic style of architecture.
Kaundinyapur is located on the bank of the
river Varada (modern Wardha). The Deulwa-
Riddhapur in Morshi taluka is quite an ancient place, which is known for the Vakataka
and Nala dynasties’ copper plates, found in
the collection of a Mahanubhava Mahant.
The Mahanubhavas treat it as equally pious
as Kashi. It is associated with two saints of the
faith, namely Govind Prabhu and Chakradhar Swami. Fairs are organised on Chaitra
Pournima and Ashad Pournima. There are 22
major annual or bi-annual fairs recorded in
the old district gazetteer. Marki, Ganoja and
Rinmochal are some more besides those described above.
Distance from
Mumbai: 844 kms
Other distances:
• Amravati- Chikhaldhara:
100 kms
• Amravati-Wardha: 113
kms
• Amravati-Akola: 97 kms
• Amravati-Badnera: 10
kms
By Air: The airport
nearest to Amravati is at
Sonegaon, Nagpur which
is connected with Mumbai
and Pune.
By Rail: By train, one can
reach Amravati from Badnera on the Mumbai-Howrah line. Now Amravati is
also connected directly to
Nagpur, which is 153 kms
by train.
By Road: A number of
state transport and private
luxury buses connect
Amravati to Nagpur, Akola,
Aurangabad, etc. From
Nagpur, Amravati is at a
distance of 180 kms by
road.
Resorts at Semadoh
41
Melghat
Mumbai
Pench
Tadoba
Chandoli
May the Tiger burn bright
Project Tiger
Anirudh Chaoji | Photographs © Sameer Raut, Anirudh Chaoji, Naresh Chandak
Tigers in India would
long have become extinct due to the sport of
hunting but were fortunately saved in time
when the government
stepped in to create
protected tiger reserves that helped their
numbers increase.
Wildlife expert Anirudh Chaoji spells out
the background of Project Tiger with a focus
on the tiger reserves
that have been established in Maharashtra
42
Wild Life
It was late evening; the sun was fast going under the blanket for the night. In the little light
that could show faint outlines in the summer
forest of Melghat, I could see a tiger slowly
approaching a water hole. I could sense the
tension mounting as my colleagues exercised
their shoulder muscles to pick up their equipment. The shot had to be taken well. The alert
tiger would not give a second opportunity.
Just as the sound of the lapping of water filled
the forest – I could hear almost simultaneous clicks and a burst of shots followed... Got
him!!!
Nothing would be too out of place in this
sequence – They would expect good photographs of the tiger lapping up at a water hole.
But if we rewind back in times to more than
Tigers have always captivated
Man’s imagination – from the
caveman’s rock paintings to
modern man’s digital photographs... alike
Project Tiger was one
of the most successful
conservation projects
ever. It helped in the
revival of the tiger in
the Indian forests from
near extinction. Read
on about the highs and
lows in the life of the
Indian tiger.
43
Healthy forests and good water
sources are pre-requisites of a
good tiger habitat. From top to
bottom, the four tiger reserves
of Maharashtra: Sahyadri,
Pench, Melghat and Tadoba
40 years from now – there would be a difference in the situation. The clicks would be
of telescopic rifles instead. In the pre 1970
era, though it might sound ridiculous to the
present young generation who shoot wildlife with cameras and zoom lenses, India
was actually a major shikar destination. So
instead of great photographs, people would
be thrilled to get a nice trophy for their living
room.
The post independence period also saw our
fast ‘progress’ towards self reliance in agriculture and industry. Large tracts of forests
were cleared to make way for civilized India
to march on. Forest covers depleted as never
before. Agricultural encroachments caused
major fragmentation in the original contigu-
44
ous forests. One animal that specifically suffered in the process was the tiger. Tigers need
good forests and a strong prey base. In our
race for development we did not realise that
humans and tigers do not co-exist. One of
them has to go. It was the tiger that almost
vanished.
In 1972, the first ever nationwide tiger census
stunned the country from its slumber. From
an estimated 40,000 tigers at the turn of the
century, we were left with just around 1800...
We were actually staring at a complete annihilation of the tiger.
Project Tiger
Fortunately however, partly because of the
strong international pressure and also more
Tigresses bring up the cubs for over 18 - 24 months
Sharing a moment of affection
Tigers spend substantial time cooling off
Ever alert
Tigers hunt by stealth and not by chase.
45
Very heartening results were soon visible,
with many tigresses
being spotted with
little cubs. The main
achievement of this
project was the excellent recovery of the
habitat in all those 9
tiger reserves and consequent increase in the
tiger population.
taneously habitat repair works also began to
facilitate recovery of the badly damaged tiger forests. This process was funded by our
Central Government with the World Wildlife
Fund (WWF – now World Wide Fund for
Nature) making a generous contribution of a
million dollars worth of equipment, expertise
and literature.
importantly because India had a nature lover
Prime Minister in Indira Gandhi –the Royal
Bengal Tiger made a comeback – from what
could realistically have meant extinction.
The planet in the meanwhile had already lost
the Caspian tiger in the 1950s. The Bali tiger
vanished in 1937 and the Javan tiger disappeared at the same time that we could have
easily lost all of ours... around 1972. Today,
the South China tiger is almost gone. It’s only
in India that we have managed to protect the
last remaining tigers.
Mrs Gandhi immediately set up a task force
to formulate a project for tiger conservation
with an ecological approach. And very soon,
in 1973 India saw the launch of the prestigious Project Tiger movement in 9 tiger national parks across India. These tiger reserves
were created on the principle of a totally protected core area, which would be surrounded
by a Buffer Area, where certain conservation
based land use would be permitted. Simul-
46
Very heartening results were soon visible,
with many tigresses being spotted with little
cubs. The main achievement of this project
was the excellent recovery of the habitat in
all those 9 tiger reserves and consequent increase in the tiger population. Over the years,
the number of tiger reserves has increased
and the overall picture had improved for the
other wildlife too.
Project Tiger was based on the simple fact
that since tigers are at the apex of the food
chain, their numbers are a good indicator
of the health of the forest. For a good tiger
population to exist, the forest would have
to possess a good prey base, which in turn
would depend on the excellent vegetation
available. This meant, by protecting just one
species of animal, an entire habitat could be
conserved – thereby eliminating the need to
launch separate efforts to protect individual
species. Thus saving the tigers would amount
to saving the entire ecosystem, which was so
crucial for man’s own survival.
Tigers need good forests to survive. Very
soon people noticed that many of the tiger
forests were actually some of our most im-
portant watersheds –sources of many of our
important rivers. This specifically meant that
saving the tigers was extremely important for
ensuring India’s water security and hence the
agricultural independence.
In the following years many more tiger reserves were created by including not just the
prominent national parks but also their adjoining sanctuaries and reserve forests. This
was to extend protection to the tigers in their
total ranging forest habitats. Results were
impressive. India’s Project Tiger was seen
as the best conservation movement worldwide. From a measly 1800, the tiger numbers
went over a healthy 4000. Many neighbouring countries as well as Russia and China expressed keen interest in wanting to replicate
the Project.
In the subsequent Five Year Plans, the government provided the much needed impetus
to enlarge the core and buffer zones in many
tiger reserves in addition to carving out new
ones. This was also accompanied by intensified protection and strengthening of the research activities.
Maharashtra’s Tiger Reserves
Let the Sipna mesmerise you...
Melghat Tiger Reserve
Melghat tiger reserve, located close to Amravati is around 225 kms west of Nagpur. Its
1,674 sq km of mountainous forest spreads
over the south Satpura Range and provides
excellent habitat for wildlife. Apart from the
glamorous tiger, leopard and sloth bear, it is
the home to the second largest population of
the Indian gaur. Melghat is a beautiful forest. You will easily fall in love with the scenic
beauty of this place watching the Sipna river
meandering - with lofty Jamun, Arjun trees
and an occasional ghost tree on the banks.
Don’t be saddened if you can’t sight a tiger
in the mountainous forest here. But rest assured – it will have seen you!!!
The best place for birds and tigers...
Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve
Tadoba, Maharashtra’s oldest national park,
and its adjoining Andhari wildlife sanctuary
were clubbed together to form the Tadoba –
Andhari tiger reserve. One of the most prominent locations here is the central lake that
supports the great diversity of this forest. The
lake has a strong population of crocodiles and
the location also provides excellent photo opportunities as grey headed fish eagle competes with crested serpent eagle and crested
hawk eagle to take control of the skies here.
By protecting a tiger, you are
actually protecting the entire
ecosystem. You then don’t
have to protect individual
species - the whole forest gets
protection.
Kipling was inspired. You too will be...
Pench Tiger Reserve
The third tiger reserve declared in Maharashtra was Pench on the Maharashtra – Madhya
47
Pradesh border. In fact this continuous forest, named after the beautiful Pench River
is separated by political borders that are
not identified by the animals. However, the
protection provided by the forest departments of both the states has ensured a very
stable predator and prey population. Pench
was brought into limelight by Rudyard Kipling’s famous Jungle Book. Today, Mowgli
and his animal friends have become household names not only in India but abroad too.
Many of the locations in the story can be located around Pench.
Ups And Downs
The author is an avid
wild lifer and has been
involved in environment awareness and
education for a number of years. Director,
Pugmarks, Eco Tours.
48
Even as the nature lovers of the country were
toasting to the success of what could have
been termed only as a Mission Impossible –
just a couple of decades ago... came a bombshell. There were widespread reports in news
papers about the dwindling numbers of tigers. A dream had been shattered. The nation
woke up to the demons of poaching. This was
the second crisis for the Royal Bengal tiger.
The Wildlife Institute of India’s new research
put the tiger numbers at around 1400, numbers which had dipped even lower than those
during the first crisis. The government swung
into action. There were raids across the country and many poachers were finally arrested.
But the damage was already done by then.
However, the positive change that took place
as a result of this crisis was that the Forest Departments received a fresh mandate
to protect the remaining wilderness areas.
The National Tiger Conservation Authority was established. New tiger reserves were
declared. In many tiger areas, armed guards
were brought in.
Hotbed of Diversity...
Sahayadri Tiger Reserve
Maharashtra too benefitted from these
moves. Two very strong tiger habitats were
given their due recognition. In the dense
Western Ghats, along the Koyna and Chandoli reservoirs, the Sahyadri tiger reserve
was established. Most areas in this forest are
inaccessible and are hence very well protected. The high rainfall here has meant excellent floral growth and diversity. In fact, this
area also received another feather in its cap
when recently the UNESCO conferred it with
World Heritage Site status.
All time favourite...
Nagzira – Navegaon Tiger Reserve
(Proposed)
Another similar tiger stronghold waiting to
be declared as a tiger reserve is the Navegaon
national park and its adjoining Nagzira wildlife sanctuary. Nagzira sanctuary incidentally
has had its neighbouring forests also being
upgraded as the New Nagzira wildlife sanctuary - thereby bringing additional forests
under protection.
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‘gills’...
Maharashtra Forest Department
holds hands with the local
community to start Eco–Tourism
In order to make the forest communities the
stake holders in conservation, the Forest Department in Maharashtra has initiated a bold new
step of helping them earn a livelihood through
eco-tourism. You can go on a trek with these locals, stay in their simple homes and learn about
their lifestyle. It is a wonderful experience indeed.
These locals are now finding that it pays to conserve.
As William Blake’s words of wonder at the
tiger stand true even today:
TIGER, tiger, burning bright In the forests of the night,
What immortal hand or eye Could frame thy fearful symmetry? How to reach:
Melghat: Train head: Badnera (110 kms) on Mumbai – Nagpur track. Airport: Nagpur
(225 kms)
Tadoba: Train: Nagpur (140 kms) / Wardha (80 Kms) on Mumbai – Nagpur track.
Chandrapur (35 kms) on Delhi – Chennai track. Airport: Nagpur (140 kms).
Pench: Train head: Nagpur (80 kms). Airport: Nagpur.
Today the tiger and other wildlife need a
more compassionate approach from the exponentially growing human population. Tiger reserves are no doubt a good way of sustaining tiger populations. But what is more
important is to establish corridors between
the islands of conservation to ensure that we
do not end up with in-bred and genetically
poor tigers. Forests in the Eastern part of Maharashtra and the Western Ghats are the last
remaining tiger strongholds. If the human
civilization seeks to remain on this planet for
long, it has to ensure that such good forested
watersheds that give us our precious water –
should remain in a good health.
Sahyadri: Train from Mumbai: Satara / Karad (70 kms). Airport: Pune (240 kms)
Nagzira: Train: Nagpur (105 kms). Airport: Nagpur.
Where to stay:
Melghat- One could stay at the spectacular rest houses at Semadoh or Kolkas. Resthouse Booking : Forest Department (Wildlife) Office at Amravati. Ph: 0721-2662792
Basic rooms and catering available. Alternatively, you can stay at the MTDC resort or
private resorts at Chikhaldara hill station, 50 km away.
Tadoba - Beautifully located MTDC resort at Moharli or private resorts at MoharliKhutwanda/ Kolara/ Navegaon gates.
Pench - Forest resthouse at Totladoh/ Irrigation resthouse - MTDC resort at Sillari.
Booking at Forest Department (Wildlife) Office Nagpur or private resorts on the Madhya Pradesh side at Khawasa.
Sahyadri- Forest rest-house or Irrigation Rest-house at Chandoli. Booking at Forest
Department (Wildlife) Office Kolhapur 0231-2542766 or private resorts at Koynanagar
Nagzira: Forest resthouse at Nagzira/ Pitezari and Youth Hostel at Navegaon. Booking
at Forest Department (Wildlife) Office Gondia. or private resorts at Pitezari.
49
Winners of
July issue
Contest
Contest
2nd
1st
Jawhar
Tarkarli
I chanced upon your excellent magazine during our
10 day holiday of Maharashtra covering Jawhar,
Bhandardara, Malshej Ghat and Satara . We felt that
the Maharashtra tourism tag line of Be surprised to be
very apt and had a great time in Maharashtra .
Holidays are special to each one of us! It’s our getaway from mundane life. Our family holiday is always
preferred at beaches as we all are water lovers. Our
favorite beach destination is Tarkarli in Maharashtra’s
Konkan belt. Tarkarli with its white sands, crystal
clear beaches and lush green palms welcome you to
discover a perfect holiday destination. Whether you
just want to let the waves wash over your stress or
get adrenalin - rush with variety of water sports, it
is a perfect vacation option for the whole family!!
Scuba diving and Snorkeling floored us as we dived
into deep blue water. The amazing corals and marine
life is awe inspiring!! The MTDC resort is the perfect
location to stay there!!!! Located right on the beautiful beach, the place is picture perfect!! The Bamboo
boat house in which we stayed is nice and cozy and
well maintained. Definitely, this is
one place you can recommend to anyone for the
sheer beauty and plethora of activities available!!
From the minute we stepped into the Shantisarovar
resort facing a picturesque lake and meadows , we
fell in love with Jawhar. The meadows with the local adivasi girls grazing their cattle ,wearing tarpaulin
raincoats and ready smiles and the shores of the lake
with the local boys fishing patiently was a pastoral
sight like no other .The Dabhosa waterfall is twelve
kms away and the route to the waterfall via lush countryside every frame of which was a photographer’s
dream . The waterfall itself is spectacular and one can
enjoy the waterfall from a distance or trek 45 mins
down to get to the base of the waterfall.
There are couple of very nice view points in Jawhar .
Sunset point is one of them which has good views and
some developing infrastructure in the form of parks .
Hanuman point is by far the best view point with its
grand flat grounds offering many vantage points to
the lush green plains below and the Raj Mahal palace
to the right . An afternoon in the Palace is worthwhile
with its sprawling orchards and view points behind
the palace . Jawhar town itself is a friendly little town
which is worthwhile walking around and exploring .
Overall a very nice place for a small break .
Mansi Shah
mansi@2mtours.com
Shankar
shankarsan@gmail.com
Gift hamper
from MTDC
10 early bird prizes
Win!
The best photo will feature on our July 13 issue cover!
Send us your best monsoon photos of any site in Maharashtra and win a
gift hamper from MTDC. The image should be of minimum 8 megapixels
in size. Send image to:
tourism@heritage-india.com
Terms and conditions apply.
50
51
Mumbai
Ellora
Where Esoteric
Buddhism Flourished
Buddhist Caves at Ellora
Suraj Pandit | Photographs © Prachi Chaudhari, Manjiri Bhalerao,
Suhas Asnikar
The caves and the
artistic images that
are found at Ellora
tell a rich story of how
esoteric Buddhism
reached its pinnacle
here. Through this
article and subsequent
ones in the forthcoming issues, Suraj
A. Pandit walks us
through these amazing caves that represented Buddhism,
Hinduism and Jainism – religious and
cultural affinities that
also defined the social
environment of those
times.
52
Caves
One of the unique features of Indian culture
is its religious character. More importantly,
the centres of pilgrimage in India are not just
religious axes but focal points of economic
and social movements. As such, the term ‘tirtha’ is used in a very wide sense across the
country. This is the story of Elapura or Ellora, one such place, that was considered sacred around 1,500 years ago and continues to
enjoy that patronage even in modern times.
Ellora is, in fact, one of the most important places on the tourist map of India and
its Cave 16, popularly known as the Kailash
Temple, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Ellora has a total of 47 caves numbered from
1 to 34 by the Archaeological Survey of India.
In this article, we explore the first 12 caves
which are Buddhist.
At Ellora, it is not just the collection of caves
but also other archaeological remains that
reveal the presence of three major Asian religions, viz. Buddhism, Hinduism and Jain-
Cave 9: Front view
Cave 12: Lotus medallion
Cave 12: Part of the Mandala, 3rd Floor, Teen Taal Cave
53
Cave 12: Second Floor
Verandah
ism. To begin with, Ellora has a very strategic
location because a trade route from North
India to the Deccan region passes through
this town. Ellora also served as a halt on the
trade route linking the coasts of east and west
India. This must have brought prosperity and
patronage to the site in its early years, while
the caves drew their religious and artistic legacy from the Buddhist caves at Ajanta, Aurangabad and Kanheri.
Looking back through history, there is no
evidence to prove any royal patronage for
the Buddhist caves at Ellora. The caves most
likely benefited from the donations of traders
and local merchants. Many monastic sites of
the period had their own agricultural lands
and perpetual endowments, Ellora probably
being no exception. Ellora emerged as a Mahayana centre and continued its journey towards the esoteric faith of Buddhism. Apart
from Kanheri and Panhale Kazi, Ellora is the
only place in western India where material
evidence about the existence of esoteric Bud54
dhism has been found. Most of the Buddhist
caves at Ellora can be dated to the 6th - 7th centuries CE on the basis of their art styles.
Exploring the Caves
Cave 1 is a residential cave (vihara) for
monks. This is believed to be one of the earliest caves at Ellora and can be dated to the
beginning of the 6th century CE. Caves 2 and
3 follow the typical Ajanta pattern of vihara
architecture with the main shrine and the image of the Buddha set against the back wall.
Cave 4 is comparatively smaller, and with a
simpler plan. This cave has a verandah with
the main shrine and two side chambers, one
on either side of the shrine. One of the most
important panels in this cave, on the path
leading to Cave 3, is of Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara who is depicted as a saviour god.
Cave 5 is one of the most important, large and
unique caves in Maharashtra. There are only
two other caves in India with this unique plan
and it can be dated to the mid 6th century CE
Cave 10 Interior with stupa from Balcony
tury CE itself. It is a long hall with two benches running for over 18 meters in the centre,
parallel to the side verandahs. This hall is a
unique feature of the monastic establishment
and was most probably used for group recitation of various Buddhist sutras like Sadhanamala, Saddharma Pundarika Sutra, Amitayurdhana Sutra, Prajna Paramita Sutra and
other Vaipulya sutras popular in Mahayana
Buddhism. In its heyday, the cave was probably plastered and painted, though only fragments of the same can be seen today. There
are meditation cells carved into both the side
walls along with larger-than-life images of
the Bodhisattva on either side of the main
shrine.
General View of Caves from 1 to 5
while a similar one at Kanheri (Cave 11) can
be placed chronologically at a slightly earlier
period, though it was excavated in the 6th cen-
The grandeur of the cave can only be compared with two other Buddhist caves from
this site, viz. Vishvakarma (Cave 10) and Teen
Taal (Cave 12). A path leading to the cave 10
from cave 5 goes through the other Buddhist
caves. The most interesting panel appears
of the rock surface exposed of the cave 9. It
is placed on facade just above the towering
sequence 6 miniature chaitya arches. In this
panel (popularly known as Litany of Tara)
the goddess is placed in the center with all
her ‘grace’ and there are miniature depictions
of episodes where she is portrait as savior of
Cave 12: Third Floor Verandah
Cave 10: Courtyard
55
Cave 12, 2nd Floor, Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara with two goddesses
Cave 12: Seated Buddha Third
Floor Verandah
devotees on the either side of the goddess.
Another note worthy panel on the same rock
mass is of Hariti and Panchika which is very
prominently placed. This panel reminds us
of their depiction in the Ajanta cave 2. The
main Chaitya (Cave 10) is popularly known
as Vishvakarma’s cave because of its intricate
carvings, Vishvakarma being the architect of
the gods. Conceived as the palace of the gods,
it follows a religious and artistic legacy from
Ajanta in the true sense. There is a huge Buddha image placed in front of the stupa covering the base and the drum part of the stupa,
which reminds us of Cave 19 and Cave 26 at
Ajanta. The Buddha is seated on a lion throne
and attended by Bodhisattvas Padmapani
and Vajrapani. As part of the decoration motif, there are rows of devotees, patrons and
musicians along with the siddhas proceeding
to the hall.
One of the unique features of this cave is its
rock-cut balcony. Though few of the early
chaityas had balconies made in wood, this
is the only specimen where such a balcony
has survived. There are many sacred panels in this cave carved at numerous places
which can be identified as Buddhist Mandalas, mainly those of Bodhisattvas. Most of the
Buddhist caves here have sculptural decorations, some of them quite contemporary.
These sculptures are mainly of Buddhas,
56
Bodhisattvas (Padmapani, Maitrya, Majushri and Vajrapani), Hariti and Panchika and
various forms of Tara. These sculptures fill
the void (shunyata) in the stone and create
a completely evolved Mahayana Buddhist
pantheon. Ellora seems to be the link between iconographic depictions from Ajanta,
Kanheri and Aurangabad to later Buddhist
schools of northern Buddhism.
The other two important caves are 10 and 11,
Cave 12: General View
Cave 6: Mahamayuri, Verandah
of Main Shrine
Panchika and Hariti
known as Don Taal and Teen Taal respectively. Both are three-storied caves and serve
as prime examples of esoteric monastic Buddhist architecture as was practised in western India. The three-storied plan is mainly
designed for three different types of groups
of people. The ground floor, which was easily accessible, was for lay followers who occasionally used to visit the temple and give
alms and the second floor was restricted for
those who had been initiated to the Buddhist
monastic order. Complex iconographic depictions and sculptural schemes begin here.
There are schemes of sculptures which are
the symbolic representation of the cosmic order as conceived by the school, i.e. Mandala.
In the shrine of the second floor of Cave 11 and
the third floor of Cave 12 there are depictions
of the Buddhist deity, Aparajita, accompanied by a miniature depiction of the goddess
Pruthvi in Cave 11. Aparajita is a goddess who
Cave 10: Vishvakarma Cave: Decorative panel in the balcony
57
Cave 5: Hall interior
The author is the Head,
Ancient Indian Culture, Sathaye College,
Vile Parle, Mumbai.
is always shown riding on an elephant-headed male. They appear very frequently in the
later art of Nalanda, Pala and in the region
of Orissa. Cave 12 is more elaborately carved
and the most interesting feature of this cave
is on the third floor where you will find a specific sculptural scheme of different Buddhas,
Bodhisattvas and Taras, thus converting the
entire architectural scheme into a Mandala.
A devotee was supposed to place himself in
the centre of the Mandala and install the es-
58
sence of the desired deity (ishta devata) in
his body. This architecture most probably
was designed for such type of rituals.
According to studies, these esoteric rituals
were performed in isolation and no lay follower was allowed to witness it even silently.
The entrance to the third floor of both the
caves (11 and 12) was designed in such a manner that it could be locked from the inside,
thereby restricting entry from the second to
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Distance from
Mumbai: 350 km
How to reach:
By Air: The nearest airport
is Aurangabad, which
has daily flights to major
Indian cities
By Rail: Aurangabad
railway station is well connected to most cities. The
Aurangabad Jan Shatabdi
Express is a daily fast train
to Mumbai.
Details of Cave 9 with the Litany of Tara
the upper floor. These caves therefore highlight the popularity of Ellora not only as a
Buddhist religious centre but also as a major
Buddhist esoteric centre. These are the only
caves in Western India where such esoteric
practices are evident in architecture and art.
They must have been in every sense the most
popular tirthas - the place of residence for
learned Buddhist monks in Mahayana and
esoteric traditions - and also mark a transition from early Mahayana Buddhism into
esoteric Buddhism.
The last cave in this series is known as
Dashavatara or Cave 15. This is a Shaiva temple and is an indicator of the decline of Buddhism at this site. This is a two-storied cave of
which chronologically the upper floor is earlier than the lower one. The pillars of the verandah of the second floor provide evidence
of the cave having started off as a Buddhist
cave. There are figures of seated Buddhas on
the outer surface of the pillar. This cave was
originally planned as a Buddhist cave similar
to Cave 12, but was finally completed in the
Shaivaite form. The transition of Buddhism
to Shaivism is reflected through these artistic
remains. This was the peak of prosperity and
glory at the monastery.
However as the monastery rose high in eminence, its fall was becoming imminent. Slowly Buddhism lost its patronage due to various
internal and external factors. There was a decline in local as well as distant patronage. The
socio-cultural scenario was changing. Buddhism lost its roots and its popularity gradually faded away.
By Road: Ellora is about
30 km from Aurangabad.
Buses, rickshaws and
taxis ply regularly between
the two. Aurangabad is
on the National Highway
211, and MSRTC runs
buses from major cities to
Aurangabad.
Where to stay:
There are many hotels in
and around Aurangabad.
There is also a youth
hostel in the city. At Ellora
the only place to stay is
the Hotel Kailas, offering
a variety of accommodation. At Fardapur, just 5
km from the Ajanta Caves
is an MTDC-run holiday
resort and a Traveller’s
Lodge, right beside the
entrance to the Caves.
MTDC Holiday Resort,
Aurangabad, Tel: 02402334259.
For information Contact:
Maharashtra Tourism
Development Corporation on 022- 22026713,
22027762, 20411678.
59
Mumbai
Nanded
Where a Sikh Warrior,
Poet and Philosopher
Breathed His Last
Sachkhand Shri Hazur
Abchalnagar Sahib
Satpal Singh Gill | Photographs © Sachin Naik
The Takhat Sachkhand
Shri Hazur Abchalnagar Sahib is where
Guru Gobind Singhji,
the tenth of the eleven
Sikh gurus, held his
final congregation and
passed on the Guruship
to the Guru Granth
Sahib
60
Shrines
Nanded in Maharashtra is not just one of the
oldest cities of the state or home to many sufi
shrines. It is also where one of the most important gurudwaras of the Sikhs, the Takhat
Sachkhand Shri Hazur Abchalnagar Sahib, is
located. It is in fact one of the five high seats
of authority of the Sikhs. This is the place
where the tenth guru of the Sikhs, Shri Guru
Gobind Singhji, breathed his last on October
7, 1708. Takhat Sachkhand Sri Hazur Abchalnagar Sahib is the principal shrine which is
about half a kilometer from the left bank of
Night view of Gurudwara
Gurudwara Sri Gobind Bagh
Sahib – The Sandal wood for
the cremation of Guru Gobind
Singhji was brought from here.
61
The complex also has
a 300-room rest house
for pilgrims, an ongoing Guru Ka Langar
and office blocks of the
Gurudwara Board besides a press and publishing house as well
as a school to teach the
scriptures and ‘kirtan’.
the river Godavari. It marks the site where
the Guru had held his court in 1708 CE after
the departure of Mughal ruler Bahadur Shah.
The site marks the place where his tent was
erected to help him convalesce after he was
attacked by assassins. It is from here that
the tenth Guru rose to heaven along with his
horse Dilbag.
The Legend
The continuous recitation
(without any break) of the Guru
Granth Sahib goes on from
beginning to end, (all 1430
pages,) lasting about 72 hours
by a team of readers.
It is said that Guru Gobind Singh arrived in
Nanded with Bahadur Shah towards the end
of August 1708 and while the latter went on
to Golconda after a few days’ rest, the Guru
decided to stay on here. It appears that he
had followed the emperor through Rajasthan
to Deccan in the hope that justice would be
meted out to his persecutors and murderers
of his young sons and numerous Sikhs, as
perhaps promised by the emperor at Agra.
But finding that for over one year the emperor had been avoiding the issue and had
shown no inclination to punish the culprits,
the Guru was disappointed and decided to
part company with him.
Here he found a man of destiny and promise
in a ‘bairagi sadhu’ whom he baptized with
‘Khande di Pahul’ (renaming him Banda Singh) and commissioned him to go north, mar-
62
Gurdwara Langar Sahib - Sant Baba Nidhan Singh,
started the service of Langar (Free kitchen for all) at a
place which came to be popularly known as Gurdwara
Langar Sahib
shal the Sikhs in Punjab and dispense justice as deserved by the perpetrators of crime
in the past with Wazir Khan, the faujdar of
Sirhind, being the most deserving among
them. This was just before Guru Gobind Singh was stabbed by two Pathans who had been
commissioned by Wazir Khan to assassinate
him. According to ‘Sri Gur Sobha’ by the contemporary writer Senapati, Jamshed Khan,
one of the attackers, stabbed the Guru in the
left side below the heart while he was resting
in his chamber after the Rehras prayer. Guru
Gobind Singh killed the attacker with his
sword, while the attacker’s companion tried
to flee but was killed by Sikhs who had rushed
in on hearing the noise. The European sur-
geon sent by Bahadur Shah stitched the Guru’s wound. However, the wound re-opened
and caused profuse bleeding, as the Guru
tugged at a hard strong bow after a few days.
Foreseeing that his earthly stay was near its
end, the Guru told the rest of his retinue to
retire to their homes if they so wished, but he
bade Bhai Santokh Singh to stay on here and
keep the Guru Ka Langar going. Many others also chose to remain. Together they built
a room over the platform where he used to
sit while holding his court and installed the
Guru Granth Sahib on it. They called it the
Takhat Sahib. Guru Gobind Singh had himself named Nanded as Abchalnagar (meaning
steadfast city) after the first word of a hymn
read at random (Hukumnama) on the occasion, which reads, “Abchal Nagar Gobind
Guru Ka, Nam Japat Sukh Paiya Ram”, as
found on page 783. Sachkhand, implying region of truth, had been used by Guru Nanak
Dev to mean the abode of God.
The Holy Complex
The present building of the Takhat Sahib was
constructed by Maharaja Ranjit Singh with
money, artisans and labour sent from the
Punjab during the early 1830s. He decorated
the Gurdwara with marble and gold plating
during his regime. The complex of the Takhat
Sahib is spread over several hectares. Besides
the Takhat Sahib proper it also includes two
other shrines. One is called Bunga Mai Bhago Ji which is a large room where the Guru
Granth Sahib is seated and some historical
weapons like steel quoits, a broad sword, a
steel bow and an arrow, a gilded dagger-sized
sword, a few swords and a mace are put on
display. The other is of Angitha Bhai Daya
Singh and Dharam Singh, two survivors of
the battle of Chamkaur who were among the
Panj Piare.
The present building
of the Takhat Sahib
was constructed by
Maharaja Ranjit Singh
with money, artisans
and labour sent from
the Punjab during
the early 1830s. He
decorated the gurudwara with marble and
gold plating during his
regime.
The structure is built at the place of the death
of Guru Gobind Singh. The inner room of the
gurdwara is called the Angitha Sahib and is
built over the place where Guru Gobind Singh
was cremated in 1708. This site is now one of
the five Takhats which are places of primary
importance to the Sikhs, the other four being
the Akal Takhat at Amritsar, Takhat Keshgarh Sahib at Anandpur, Takhat Patna Sahib
in Bihar district and Takhat Damdama Sahib
in Talwandi Sabo, Bhatinda, Punjab.
The control of Takhat Sachkhand Sri Hazur
Sahib, which had formerly passed into the
hands of the Udasi Sikh priests, was regained
by the Sikhs under the influence of the Singh Sabha Movement of the late 19th century.
Some of the rituals and ceremonies are peculiar to this Takhat Sahib. In 1956 an Act
was passed by the legislature of Hyderabad
under which the management of the Takhat
Sahib and other historical gurdwaras was legally placed under a 17-member Gurudwaras
Devotees reciting path in peaceful environment
Gold carving photo of Guru
Nanak Dev Ji
Gurdwara Nagina Ghat Sahib, is on the river bank, about 400 metres southwest of Takhat Hazur Sahib
63
Gold plate embossed door and
doorframe, one from the four
doors of Angitha Sahib
Distance from
Mumbai: Around
650 kms
How to reach:
By Air: GoAir Airlines service from Delhi to Nanded
and Mumbai to Nanded
every Tuesday, Saturday
and Sunday at 8:40 hrs
By Rail: Sachkhand
express is a special
super fast train running
from Amritsar directly to
Nanded. Currently Nanded
railway line is connected
to Mumbai via Manmad
and Hyderabad via Secunderabad.
By Road: Nanded is 650
kms east of Mumbai by
road. It is about 4-5 hours
drive from Aurangabad
and 11 hours from
Pune. Nanded is about
approximately 250 kms
from Hyderabad. Several
passenger bus services
operate out of Nanded
providing easy overnight
connectivity with all
most every major city in
Maharashtra.
The author is a devotee
from Nanded running
coaching classes - GLOGIC, for computer
languages
64
Historical Shashtra darshan after aarti
Board and a five-member managing committee.
In the two-storey building, the interiors are
artistically ornamented in the style of Harmandir Sahib, Amritsar. The walls of Angitha
Sahib have been covered with golden plates.
On the first floor, recitations from Sri Guru
Granth Sahib go on day and night. The dome
is polished and on the pinnacle is a ‘kalash’
made of gold-plated copper. Some of the sacred relics of Guru Gobind Singh are also preserved here. These include a golden dagger, a
matchlock gun, an archer with 35 arrows, two
bows, a steel shield studded with precious
stones and five golden swords. The complex
also has a 300-room rest house for pilgrims,
an ongoing Guru Ka Langar and office blocks
of the Gurudwara Board besides a press and
publishing house as well as a school to teach
the scriptures and ‘kirtan’.
Value Additions
Inside view of Angitha Sahib
In 2008, the 300th ceremony of Shri Guru
Granth Sahibji (Guruta-Gaddi) and the 300th
death anniversary of Shri Guru Gobind Singhji were observed on a grand scale at Hazoor
Sahib, Nanded. The congregation was addressed by none other than Prime Minister
Manmohan Singh. To publicize the event a
‘Jagriti Yatra’ was arranged which travelled
through different cities across the country as
also some places abroad. Recently a laser-ray
show has been started at Gobind Bagh near
the main gurudwara. In this show the lives of
the ten Gurus are briefly but very beautifully
described. The show has been conceived and
directed by Jasbir Singh Dham while the music and commentary is by ghazal singer Jagjit
Singh. The show timings are 7:30 pm to 8:30
pm daily.
Where to stay:
All the devotees visiting
Takhat Sahib are provided
free as well as rented
rooms during their stay
in Nanded. There are currently around 650 rooms.
These are available in the
Gurudwara complex as
well as outside. There are
both air-conditioned and
non-air conditioned rooms
available. Accommodation
can be booked (subject to
availability) at the reception of these Sarai/ Niwas.
Advance reservation is
possible by on-line booking through the website.
What to eat:
Devotees can partake of
‘Guru ka langar’ for free
meals. Langar express the
ethics of Sharing, community, inclusiveness and
oneness of all humankind.
There is quality check on
the food served. It has a
langar Hall, in which thousands of people can be
accommodated. Besides
the langar attached to
Gurudwaras, there are improvised open-air Langar’s
at the time of festivals and
Gurpurabs. Langar is also
served to devotees at the
railway station at Nanded.
Excursions:
Nandgiri Fort: Just 4 km.
away from railway station,
this fort is located on the
river bank in Holi area.
Kaleshwar Temple:
This is a Yadav heritage
structure, situated on the
banks of river Godavari at
Vishnupuri.
Bhaveshwar Temple:
Bhavatirth, one of the
tirthas on the banks of
river Godavari.
Kandhar fort: A “Bhuikot
Killa”- land fort, 52 km.
to the south of Nanded, it
is one of the ancient forts
of Maharashtra, well connected by road.
Interior is artistically ornamented with golden plates
The artistic work on the marble add to the beauty
Badi Darga: This is a
typical mediaeval heritage
structure built in black and
lime mortar.
65
Mumbai
Khidrapur
Sculpting Divinity
Koppeshvara
G B Deglurkar | Photographs © Sunil Kapadia, Shreenand Bapat,
Suhas Asnikar, Yogesh Prabhudesai
G B Deglurkar visits
the famous Koppeshvara temple, located
just about 60 kilometres from Kolhapur,
where he is mesmerized by the detailing
of the sculptures of
beautiful damsels
along with gods and
goddesses that together present a vivid
visual recreation from
the pages of Indian
mythology
Entrance of Koppeshwara temple
66
Monument
Lush green sugarcane fields dotted with the
odd sugar factory surround you on the 60-odd
kilometre route from Kolhapur to Khidrapur.
A small town on the Maharashtra-Karnataka
border, Khidrapur is best known for its magnificent Koppeshvara temple which dates
back nearly a 1,000 years to between the 11th
and 12th centuries CE. It is remarkable for its
Shilahara style. Legend has it that the temple
was built to placate Shiva’s rage (kop) after
his consort Sati immolated herself, giving
the temple the name Koppeshvara. However,
inscriptions found carved in the temple appear to mention a village called Koppam, thus
logically making Koppeshvara the local deity.
Further enhancing the prestige accorded to
this temple is its auspicious location. It is
situated at the confluence of the rivers Krishnaveni and Kuweni. Krishnaveni, which flows
from east to west, bends unusually towards
the east at this point, thus making it even
more auspicious according to the shastras.
Mardala
Koppeshvara
67
Koppeshvara temple
Marichika
Darpana
Patralekhika
68
The first thing to strike you as you approach
the temple is its stunning plinth base. Standing on this intricately carved base or adisthana are 92 carved elephants, roughly a metre
high each. The plinth and the elephants together form the base for the entire temple.
These majestic creatures are shown shouldering the burden of the superstructure and
also serving as mounts to various gods who
are seated on their backs. Each elephant is
separated from the next with a carved figure
of a surasundari, each beauty standing on
her own plinth. This kind of plinth or jagati
of a structural temple is rare. Some consider
Koppeshvara as a miniature replica of the
plinth of the world famous Kailasa at Ellora
in Aurangabad district.
As your eye moves upwards from the base, it
is hard not to be amazed by the intricacy of
the pillars. Supported by the pillars, the main
portion of the external wall or mandovara is
also carved. Certain pilasters protrude, while
others recede, giving the temple wall a stunning star-shaped appearance. The intricacy
of the mandovara is breathtaking, every part
of it is filled with alternating carved figures
of women and gods and goddesses. Each
one of them is shown standing on a separate
pedestal below its feet and a small canopy
above the head specially tailored for it. There
are small figures of minor deities at the foot
of these pilasters as well as at the top of the
celestial figures, all in separate decorated
frames. No detail is too small to escape attention, the minor deities too are shown seated
on their carriers (vahanas).
Most eye-catching of all though are the carved
figures of the surasundaris or celestial beauties like Mardala, Patralekhika, Chandravali,
Rati, Torana, Ketakibharana, Nartaki, Chamara, Padmagandha, Putravallabha, Karpuramanjari, and above all Marichika. This
lone figure of the surasundari is unparalleled in Maharashtra. Marichika stands in an
atibhanga pose, leaning backwards. She puts
her weight on her left leg while the right one
is bent at the knee. In her left hand she holds
a bow with the string hovering above her
head and an arrow in her right hand which
is stretched up to the ear. Her shapely thigh
(revealed because of her ardhoruka apparel),
voluptuously carved figure and concentrated
gaze have all been very sensually carved.
On the south plinth of the mandapa Rati and
Madana (the god of love) are strikingly presented. The artist, taking advantage of the
corner of the plinth, has depicted Madana
with a bow of ikshudanda (sugarcane) in his
left hand and arrow in the right, to one side of
the corner, and Rati facing him on the other
side with both her hands suggesting fear. She
appears to move away from him in order to
get rid of him.
On the mandovara of the temple a monkey is
shown dallying with a beautiful young woman. Here the glamorous surasundari and the
fickle monkey are very effectively represented. She is youthful, standing in an attractive
pose with her right hand raised to drive the
Madan
Mandapa
Swarga Mandapa
69
Excursions:
Visit the bustling city of
Kolhapur, famous for its
chappals and spicy food.
The Mahalakshmi temple
at Kolhapur attracts
devotees from across the
country.
Enjoy a walk by the
Rankala lake, or for the
more adventurous, many
treks to nearby forts
such as Panhala can be
organised.
Brahma
monkey away. She is shown gracefully turning back, her curvaceous figure being carved
to its full advantage. The suggestion of movement and pulsating life conveyed by the gestures of her hands and the body’s posture is
Bhairava
G. B. Deglurkar is
an expert on temple architecture and
iconography. He is the
President of Deccan
College Post-Graduate
Research Institute,
Pune
70
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Exterior of the temple
appealing. There are many more such beautiful surasundaris on the mandovara. These
celestial beauties add to the aesthetic appeal
of the temple building. They are role models
of physical perfection and portray the many
faces of beauty. On three sides of the mandovara amidst these surasundaris are three
bhadras equipped with all the required features of a temple.
Apart from the enticing figures of surasundaris there are a considerable number of images
of gods and goddesses on the exterior of the
temple. They are of Ganesha, Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva, Bhairava, Surya, Indra, Saraswati,
Lakshmi, Uma, Chamunda, Mahishasuramardini, and others. The garbhagriha (sanctum) is square with three unusual smaller
chambers, the entrances of which are flanked
by female doorkeepers. The Shivalinga with
shalunka, the warimarga of which faces
the north as per the shastric requirement, is
known as Koppeshvara.
Koppeshvara is worth visiting not only for its
aesthetic aspects but also for the well-integrated imagery of its sculptural scheme. The
architect has achieved a balance between the
southern and the northern side of the struc-
ture by pairing two opposite or complementary deities such as Ganesha and Saraswati
– both related to learning or Brahma flanked
by Savitri and Gayatri and Vishnu with Lakshmi and Bhudevi on two sides of the hall,
both facing the east honouring the main deity Shiva in the centre, i.e. in the sanctum.
Further, the selection of two scenes - one
from the Ramayana and the other from the
Mahabharata indicate the artist’s depth of
knowledge and the symbolic importance of
the temple. The former depicts Hanuman
handing over the ring of Rama to Sita, suggesting a very important event from the epic
and the latter depicts Draupadi with her disheveled braid reminding Bhima of his vow
to destroy Duhshasana’s thigh, giving the
epic a devastating turn.
And so, the multi-dimensional temple of
Koppeshvara is more than a beautiful sacred
structure, encapsulating as it does a richly
layered religious and cultural experience.
Art, architecture and spirituality converge
to create a full-bodied living experience. The
next time you drive through Kolhapur, take
a short detour and see the wonders of Koppeshvara for yourself.
Distance from
Mumbai: 417 km
How to reach:
By Rail: Miraj and
Kolhapur are the nearest
railway stations.
By Road: Khidrapur is approximately 60 kilometres
from Kolhapur and 32
kilometres from Miraj.
Where to stay:
There are several hotels to
choose from in Kolhapur.
For a more relaxing
get-away, try the MTDC
Holiday Resort at Panhala.
What to eat:
The south of Maharashtra
is famous for its fiery
spices. Try some mutton
curry or misal pav.
71
Mumbai
Pabal
Innovating
Rural Education
Vigyan Ashram
Ranjeet Shanbag | Photographs © Vigyan Ashram
Based on the philosophy that a scientific
theory is never significant till it is put into
practice, the Vigyan
Ashram located at
Pabal in Maharashtra has opened a new
chapter in the lives of
rural youth who have
learned from here
the basics of technology that have helped
them not only improve
their lives and those of
others but also turned
them into successful
entrepreneurs, writes
Ranjeet Shanbag,
its deputy director
72
Service
In the rain-shadow zone of the hinterland of
Pune district lies a village called Pabal. With a
population of 10,000, one could say that Pabal is a typical Indian drought-prone village.
And this was precisely why in 1983 the late
Dr. S S Kalbag, a scientist-turned-educationist chose to use Pabal as a laboratory for his
ideas on education and rural development.
‘Vigyan’, meaning the search for truth, and
the ancient educational system of the ‘ashram’, evoking simple living but high thinking,
came together in his organisation named ‘Vigyan Ashram’.
unique ‘Diploma in Basic Rural Technology’
is aimed at those who want to launch their
own enterprises, while its course ‘Introduction to Basic Technology’ has been introduced in 122 high schools across four states
in India. Another unique feature of the Vigyan Ashram is its ‘FabLab’ in partnership
Viygan Ashram conducts training programmes for rural youth, particularly for
those who prefer to learn by doing things by
hand rather than through books alone. Its
Vigyan Ashram Graduates
Cultivation in Polyhouse
Soil Testing
73
Agriculture practicals
with the world-renowned Massachusetts Institute of Technology, USA. The FabLab aims
at helping people find their own solutions to
problems they face in their fields by making
technology and processes available to them,
and allowing them to design and create their
own solutions. Vigyan Ashram has the very
first FabLab set up outside of MIT.
Founding Vigyan Ashram
Born in 1928, Dr Shrinath Kalbag was the
youngest of the children of Shesgiri N.
Kalbag, who founded the ‘Popular Pharmacy’
in Mumbai. His interest in both science and
activism was evident from an early age and he
frequently conducted experiments at home
as a schoolchild. Later on, in his college days,
he gave talks to make mill workers aware of
their rights. In 1952, after completing his MSc
(Tech) in Oils & Fats from UDCT, Mumbai,
he moved to the University of Chicago, Illinois for his Ph.D in Food Technology. Living
in Chicago, he soon got into the habit of visiting the farms and ranches in the surrounding
areas on the weekends. These visits proved
to be eye-opening as he witnessed first-hand
Cane transportation system
Fab lab
Food processing unit
74
Vigyan Ashram campus
how farmers used science and technology in
their daily agricultural practices. This, perhaps, sowed the seeds for the foundation of
Vigyan Ashram.
Geodesic dome structure
Upon his return to India in 1955, Dr. Kalbag
worked at the Central Food Technological
Research Institute (CFTRI) at Mysore, and
later on as the head of the Engineering Sciences Department at the Hindustan Lever
Research Centre, Mumbai. In 1982, he took
voluntary retirement to fulfil his dream of
Food processing unit
Low cost housing option
75
Visiting Vigyan
Ashram:
Those interested in
learning about scientific
applications, improving
their schools’ science
programmes or keen to
know how technology can
be used for rural development, etc are welcome
to visit Vigyan Ashram.
Students, who may be
weak in academics but
otherwise enthusiastic
about learning, are also
encouraged to visit Vigyan
Ashram to learn about its
educational programmes.
It is open for visitors
around the year but
Thursdays and Sundays
are the most preferred
days to visit. Saturday
is the weekly off at the
Ashram. More information can be obtained from
www.vigyanashram.com.
Contact Details
Vigyan Ashram, A/P Pabal,
Taluka Shirur, Pune – 412
403.
Tel.: 02138-292326.
Email: vapabal@gmail.
com.
Facebook: www.facebook.
com/vigyan.ashram.pabal.
Solar cooking park
Vigyan Ashram was finally started in 1983 in
a defunct oil mill in Pabal, in association with
the Indian Institute of Education (IIE), Pune.
Dr. Kalbag himself moved from Mumbai to
Pabal and encouraged the villagers to break
down caste barriers and focus on development instead. Eventually, the government
donated some land to his cause, and the current campus was built by the students themselves. Dr. Kalbag passed away in 2003 - a
loss that was keenly felt, but did not deter his
many students, rather strengthening their
resolve to carry out his vision.
A New Dimension
The author is agriculture programme manager and Dy. Director
of Vigyan Ashram
76
Survey technique
helping rural development through accessible science and technology. His goal was
to help rural youth, especially those who
dropped out from school. Pabal, as the site
for this new institution, was picked after
careful consideration. Dr. Kalbag toured Maharashtra, and finally settled on Pabal in the
Shirur taluka of Pune district because of its
typical drought-prone climate and perennial
water shortage.
The Vigyan Ashram philosophy of education
is to teach by doing. Their policy is aimed
specifically at those who work best by actually practicing what they do, and for students
who drop out of school. In the ‘Introduction
Working in Fab lab
to Basic Technology’ course, students learn
by trying out different methods one day of the
week. At Vigyan Ashram, it is firmly believed
that the aim of science is to demystify things,
and not over-complicate them. As a part of
this, all students are encouraged to keep records of various things. Record-keeping is
the basis of any scientific project, and thus is
a part of student practices. One can see here
how records are kept for small things such
as even the food intake of students staying
on the campus, their health data, weather
changes, feeding of animals and their milk
yield, watering of plants, etc. Costing and recording are practiced in the smallest of activities at the Ashram.
Vigyan Ashram also provides training in
different technologies in the fields of engi-
Testing Strength
Technology at Work
Farmers, students and all those interested can get first-hand information by visiting the Vigyan Ashram. For example, one can see a live demonstration of the following technologies at the Ashram (VA):
It has developed a kit for the construction of geodesic domes. This is very useful in earthquake-prone areas and
during natural disasters.
VA makes use of solar energy for its kitchen, agriculture and food processing units. It has installed devices like
parabolic cookers, different types of solar dryers, solar concentrator, etc.
Different technologies are applied in nursery, irrigation, polyhouse, farm tank and modern agriculture techniques
such as aquaponics, etc.
It also has a weather station, biogas plant and complete food processing set-up.
VA manufactures various agricultural tools in its fabrication workshop like low-cost 10 HP tractors branded ‘MechBull’.
Some of the technology projects developed by VA students include the pedal power cycle, different LED lamps and
batteries, innovative food processing recipes and products, small domestic poultry solar egg incubator for rural
farmers and self-help groups, different electronic gadgets like humidity sensors for agricultural application, solar
mobile charger, motor controller, data loggers, etc.
neering, energy, environment, agriculture,
animal husbandry and electronics. This is
a multi-skill programme in which students
learn by providing different community services to their villages. This enables students
to earn while they learn business skills, and
the local community benefits from the services provided.
At the same time, Vigyan Ashram is also a
centre for the development of appropriate
technologies. Research work is carried out
regarding various new projects and ideas.
The FabLab, for instance, contains a set of
advanced machines for doing electronics
projects and prototyping. ‘You can make almost anything!’ is the motto of FabLab. And
true to its open doors policy, Vigyan Ashram
welcomes innovators and doers and invites
them to turn their ideas to reality.
Distance from
Mumbai: 170 kms
How to reach:
Pabal is located 170 kms
from Mumbai. From Pune,
Pabal is roughly 63 kms
along the NH 50, PuneNashik Road.
is at Pune.
By Rail: The railway
station that is closest is
Chinchwad. Pune Railway
Station is 63 kms from
Pabal.
By Road: From Mumbai,
take the Mumbai-Pune
Expressway till the exit
for the old Mumbai-Pune
Highway at Chakan and
then take the Pune-Nashik
Road, NH 50, towards
Pabal.
Excursions:
• Malshej Ghat, known for
its stunning waterfalls, is
about 80 km from Pabal.
• The Ashtavinayaka
Temple at Ranjangaon is
roughly 35 km from Pabal.
• The historic Shaniwarwada Fort in Pune has
a daily sound and light
show in the evenings.
77
The Private-Public
Partnership in Tourism
One of India’s leading industrialists,
Madhur Bajaj is no stranger to the challenges that face any industry aiming to
develop. Here he would like to share his
expert opinion on the tourism industry
and what it should aspire to.
An interview with Shri Madhur Bajaj,
Vice Chairman, Bajaj Auto Ltd.
How do you see tourism within
the context of the Indian economy, which has focused a lot on
industries in the past?
Your Publication “MAHARASHTRA UNLIMITED” is a veritable
treasure chest of information on our culture
and heritage tourism.
The publication is of
international quality
with splendid photographs and write-ups.
I wish you the very
best in sustaining this
great effort.
Tourism can be effectively leveraged
with its multiplier effects to increase
our country’s GDP, increase sectors of
employment (direct & indirect) and put
India on the priority list of business visitors and tourists.
In fact, India has been extremely fortunate to have the best tourism wealth
in the world. It has history, culture,
monuments, rock temples, caves, heritage sites and so much more. The state of
Maharashtra itself has a wealth of natural, architectural and cultural heritage
which is immense.
What do you think the tourism
industry needs to do with regard to marketing?
We need to leverage our tourist sites
with good packaging and effective marketing. By packaging I mean making
the places interesting and comfortable
by providing proper amenities like pure
drinking water, clean toilets, trained
guides, appropriate souvenirs and Indian snacks, supplemented by audio cassettes in different languages, such that
a visitor truly has a memorable experience and recommends the place to others as a ‘must visit destination’.
78
For marketing, we can develop videos, that
could give a glimpse of the important tourist
sites, so that the flavour is enough to tempt
any tourist/visitor to these sites. It should
enable a potential tourist to select items of his
interest just like we select our choice dishes
from an a la carte menu at a restaurant. He
may choose from eco, bio, or adventure tourism or simply visit heritage sites or a combo/
medley which a tour operator or travel agency can weave into an interesting garland of
experiences tailor made for each tourist.
And to promote India abroad?
There are millions of visitors at the Epcot
Centre, which is a part of the Disney World
at Orlando, Florida, USA, where many countries have pavilions to promote tourism. We
should have an India Pavilion at the Epcot
Centre with a beautiful replica of any of our
magnificent monuments and great Indian
cuisine, dance, music and souvenirs, typically
Indian handicrafts, jewellery and textiles,
including saris. We would be interested in a
joint venture (a private-public partnership)
in this respect that could be the harbinger of
other Government-Private Sector projects in
the tourism sector.
What would you propose as a private-public partnership in the tourism sector? What would you suggest?
There are many possibilities that can be explored. The Private Sector could be handed
over some of the significant tourism sites/
monuments. Maintenance of these sites can
be done by the Private Sector on a B.O.T,
lease or some such basis. We (the Private Sector) could invest in upgrading tourist experience via sound and light programmes and the
like, besides doing marketing. We could give
the visitor a truly enchanting experience.
Interview
I am particularly desirous of launching
a project of ‘Gandhi on wheels (or Gandhi Darshan)’ on the same lines as the
‘Deccan Odyssey’, but where the theme
would be on Gandhiji’s life and work
and the take home benefit for the tourists/travellers would be ‘VALUES OF
LIFE’. The train journey could be made
interesting by having Gandhiji’s photographs, artefacts, documents and documentaries displayed at strategic places
within the train, create an environment
by having bhajans in the morning or
evening, supplemented by plying of
the Charkha or the spinning wheel with
its significance in the freedom struggle
and even in today’s context. Simple but
tasty food would be provided, different
Gandhiji related documentaries would
be made available, which the travellers
can see within their respective cabins,
via TV and video arrangements.
Apart from video cassettes/DVD, the
library would have written literature
which the travellers can buy and take
away. These facilities could keep the
travellers engaged while they are in the
train.
Each bogey could be sponsored by an
industrial house and we could put their
Maharashtra Quiz
name on individual bogeys to respect their
contributions.
This project could also be replicated at the
Aga Khan complex at Pune. We could supplement it with a theatre-cum-cafeteria-cumvillage scenario to enhance the visitor’s experience.
Hopefully this plan will come to
fruition some day soon. One last
question, we must ask you what do
you think of ‘Maharashtra Unlimited’?
Your publication “Maharashtra Unlimited”
is a veritable treasure trove of information on
our culture and heritage tourism. The publication is of international quality with splendid photographs and write-ups and is showcasing the wealth of the state beautifully. I
sincerely hope that people respond to this
unique initiative of the Maharashtra Tourism
Development Corporation.
The tourism industry is growing by leaps and
bounds. This requires us to build our support system and infrastructure to match up in
order reap the harvest. The number of tourists goes up by a million every year. These figures are knocking at our door. Let us together
strive to make this industry boom!
1.
What was the name of the agreement which led to the formation of Maharashtra and Gujarat in 1960?
2. In the accounts of which famous 7th century Chinese traveller
does Maharashtra feature ?
3. Which city in Maharashtra was the temporary capital of Muhammad bin Tughluq?
4. Which peak near Nashik is the highest point in Maharashtra?
5. On account of its numerous college what is Pune known as?
6. Which city near Pune was the capital of King Vedishri’s kingdom?
7. Which is Maharashtra’s longest river?
8. Approximately how many forts are there in Maharashtra?
9. Which city south of Ahmednagar attracts pilgrims from all
over the world?
10. Who was the first Governor of Maharashtra/Bombay State?
Yazad Dotivala
1. Nagpur Pact, 2. Hiuen-Tsang, 3. Daulatabad, 4. Kalsubai, 5. Oxford of the East,
6. Junnar, 7. Godavari, 8. Three hundred and fifty, 9. Meherabad , 10. Sir John Colville
Answers
79
Birds Galore
Bhigwan
Samir Madhani
|
Photographs © Samir Madhani, Ashok Kapadia
Pink masterstrokes
l The word “flamingo”
comes from the Spanish and
Latin word “flamenco”, which
means fire, and refers to
the bright color of the birds’
feathers.
l Flamingos are monogamous birds that lay only one
egg each year. If that egg is
lost or damaged, they do not
typically lay a replacement.
l A flamingo’s diet includes
shrimp, plankton, algae and
crustaceans.
l Flamingos have a wild
lifespan of 20-30 years.
l The most prominent
threats to flamingos include
predators, habitat loss,
manmade obstructions in their
migratory pathways, poaching
for decorative feathers, etc.
l During migration, they
prefer to fly at night through
a cloudless sky and favorable
tailwinds. They can travel
approximately 600 km in one
night at about 50 to 60 km per
hour.
l Flamingos rest standing
on one leg.
The author is a wild
life enthusiast and
photographer.
80
Photo Feature
For those of you interested in the winged
variety of our planet’s wildlife or fauna, the
best place to observe some of them at close
quarters in their natural habitat is Bhigwan.
More importantly, what comes as a surprise
is the absolutely harmonious relationship
shared by the town’s residents with the birds
that come here in huge numbers
The Eurasian Spoonbill is a
migratory bird, which breeds
in Europe in summer and visits
South Asia in winter.
The bird uses its spoonbill to
stir the water to hunt for fish
and aquatic insects.
The Woolly Necked Stork
derives its name from its white
woolly neck. The extent of
white wool on its neck varies
with its age. The younger birds
have more wool than the elder
ones.
81
Bhigwan Beckons
If there ever has been an ornithologist budding within you,
the best place for you to go to would be Bhigwan. Nourished by the backwaters of the Ujani Dam, Bhigwan may
just be a small town but it is on the global birding map. It
is located at a distance of 110 kilometres from Pune and is
in central Maharashtra. The backwaters of the Ujani Dam,
which is built on the river Bhima, replenishes wetlands
spread over an area of 18,000 hectares, where naturelovers can sight and photograph 104 bird species which
migrate from South America, Canada, Siberia and Eastern
Europe. The Ujani Dam with its large reservoir provides
The mandibles of Asian Openbill Stork do not meet except
at the tip, hence the name.
The top of the head of Black
Winged Stilts is normally
white. However, only during
breeding season, the top of the
males’ heads’ turn black.
82
several benefits such as of irrigation, hydroelectric power
generation, industrial water supply, etc.
The best way to reach Bhigwan is by a private vehicle. You
can strike your base camp at Kumbhargaon, which is just
10 kilometres from Bhigwan and the ideal way to observe
the birds that congregate on the backwaters and its adjoining land is to approach the local fishermen in Kumbhargaon for a boat ride. And yes, one thing to remember is
that such a visit should be set for early in the morning or
in the evening.
A Sanctuary In The Making
During the 1980s UNESCO had formulated a scheme
to create bird sanctuaries all over the world. Under this
scheme, one of the ten bird sanctuaries that were to
be created in India was chosen to be at Bhigwan. This
ambitious UNESCO project to set up a bird sanctuary was
shelved two decades ago, but today on account of the
sheer diversity and richness of bird life at Bhigwan, the
project is all set to be revived.
The most unique feature of Bhigwan is that the backwater
area is shallow and vastly spread out. The area around
Bhigwan is believed to be the best wetland in Maharashtra
because the semi-waste water in this backwater area has
fabricated a very good eco-system, where birds not only
thrive but also nest.
Pond Heron
The Demoiselle Crane is
symbolically significant in
the culture of North India and
Pakistan, where it is known as
the Koonj. The name Koonj is
derived from the Sanskrit word
Kraunch, which is a term for
crane itself. Beautiful women
are often compared to the
Koonj because its long and
thin shape is considered graceful. Metaphorical references
are often made to the Koonj
for people who have ventured
far from home or undertaken
hazardous journeys.
Mating pairs of Demoiselle
Cranes, engage in unison
calling, which is a complex and
extended series of coordinated
calls. Valmiki, the composer
of the Hindu epic Ramayana,
composed his first verse when
he saw a hunter kill the male
of a pair of Demoiselle Cranes
that were making love. And
upon learning that the lovelorn
female was circling and crying
in grief, he cursed the hunter
in verse.
Heads down means feeding
time
Flamingos hold their bills
upside down while feeding,
to filter out their food while
skimming the water. Through
slow-motion photography
researchers discovered that
flamingos pump water through
their bills 20 times a second to
filter their food.
83
Example of Sustainability
It is indeed extremely heartening to see how the migratory birds bring life to the otherwise small dusty town of
Bhigwan. But what is more comforting is the attitude that
the locals have developed towards these winged beauties. When the migratory birds touch down at Bhigwan,
they provide an additional source of income to the fishing
communities in and around the area till their stay. During
Across the Himalayas in a day
l Bar-Headed Geese migrate
over the Himalayas to spend
the winter in parts of South
Asia.
l Bar-headed Geese, one of
the world’s highest flying birds,
cruise at an altitude of 29,500
feet, nearly as high as that of a
commercial aircraft and cross
the Himalayas in a single day.
l To fly so far at such a
great height, the bar-headed
geese must sustain a 10 to
20-fold increase in oxygen
consumption.
l Bar-Headed Geese consistently fly at night or during
early-morning hours, when air
is cooler and denser; this helps
the geese generate greater
lift. Cooler air also helps to
regulate body heat and contains more oxygen, enabling
the geese to fly even as the air
thins at higher altitudes.
The River Anglers
Plunge-Divers:
Brahminy Kite and River Tern.
84
the winter season each year many wildlife enthusiasts
and nature lovers visit Bhigwan and choose to approach
the local fishermen to get a boat ride to observe such a
variety of birds as flamingoes, storks, gulls, geese, ducks,
kingfishers, herons, cranes, stilts, spoonbills, terns, etc.
Also since many of these enthusiasts decide to spend a
couple of days in Bhigwan, villagers arrange home stays
for people who wish to do so.
The villagers take a long-term view of how their actions
will affect future generations and make sure that they do
not voluntarily or otherwise deplete the existing resources
or cause pollution at a rate faster than that at which nature
is able to regenerate. The villagers do understand the
importance of sustainability, are compliant and command
tremendous knowledge of birds. They row the boats themselves instead of employing engines to their boats, practice
sustainable fishing and do not pollute the environment in
any way. The local communities’ sensitive approach to bird
life and environment has helped Bhigwan retain its prime
spot on the global birding map and will eventually drive the
concerned government officials to declare Bhigwan a bird
sanctuary.
The herons are long-legged
freshwater and coastal birds,
such as the Grey Heron and
Little Egret. These are known
for using bait (seeds, insects,
etc.) in order to lure fish to
within striking distance.
Kingfisher scans the water for
its prey.
Gulls and Painted Storks pick
up their fill.
85
A Whiskered Tern sun basks.
An Osprey scans the water for
its prey.
The code of conduct to make
love in the flamboyant world
of Flamingos
l Flamingos perform ritualized stretching and preening
when courting begins. Males
group together and often run
with bills pointed toward the
sky and necks held straight
out.
l A female will most often
initiate copulation by walking
away from the group. The
female invites the male by
lowering her head, and spreading her wings. Mating occurs
in the water, the male jumps
onto the female’s back, firmly
planting his feet on her wing
joints. After mating, the male
stands on the female’s back,
then jumps off over her head.
l Flamingos build nest
mounds made of mud, small
stones, straw and feathers.
These mounds can be as high
as 30 cm.
l The chick breaks through
the shell using a growth on its
bill called an “egg tooth”. The
egg tooth is not a true tooth
and falls off soon after the
chick hatches.
86
Demoiselle Cranes have to
take on one of the toughest migrations in the world.
They gather in flocks of up to
400 individuals and prepare
for their flight to their winter
range. The flock flies at
altitudes of 16,000-26,000
feet to cross the Himalayan
mountains and generally flies
in an inverted ‘V’ formation.
The aerodynamics aspect of
this formation helps them
overcome the force of the
opposing wind and helps them
fly faster.
The flying formation of the
Koonj during migrations also
inspired infantry formations
in ancient India. The Mahabharata epic describes both
warring sides adopting the
Koonj formation on the second
day of the Kurukshetra War.
Ducks taking off.
Tips: The birds start arriving
in November,December. But
the best time to watch them
is in January. If you miss the
birds in Bhigwan, catch them
in March against the lush
Mangrove backdrop at the Flamingo festival at Sewri, Mumbai organised by the Bombay
Naural History Society.
87
MTDC Festivals
nation. The participation by international artists in Indian
art forms will position the festival as a leader in promoting Indian heritage not only in the state but across the
nation and in the international circuit, putting the Elephanta Festival on the international tourism map.
The first ever colorful Dolphin
and Turtle Festival
MTDC recently celebrated a spectacle of nature – the
nestling, hatching and the first journey to the sea of
the Olive Ridley Turtles. The pristine beaches of Murud,
Harnai and Velas hosted this unusual phenomenon and
a plethora of attractive activities that enthralled visitors
from15 to 17 March, 2013. Many entertaining and participative activities like celebrity beach Cricket, beach
sports, sand sculptures and Dolphin spotting added
excitement and colour to the main event of witnessing
the hatching and inception of the Olive Ridley Turtles
that migrate thousands of miles to lay their eggs on the
shores of the Arabian Sea at Maharashtra.
Cultural programmes organized by the State culture department made the visitors dance to folk music and the
local Malwani cuisine with the best quality fish served
along with relishes like Modak and Solakadhi satiated
the taste buds.
Elephanta Festival
The two-day cultural extravaganza held on March 2 and
3, 2013 at the heritage site of Elephanta caves organized
by the MTDC mesmerized music and art lovers from the
city and the world alike.
The festival offered a grand treat from stalwarts of music, Indian classical dance and western fusion. A painting
competition organized in association with the reputed
J.J. School of Art was also held for professionals as well
as amateurs and the theme of the competition was to
paint the magnificent Elephanta caves, sculptures, etc…
at the location on both days. Eminent judges short listed
top three prizes comprising cash amounts of Rs 50,000,
Rs 25,000 and Rs 10,000 respectively.
For history and heritage enthusiasts, a special treat was
in the offing. Dr. G.B. Deglurkar, President - Deccan College Post-graduate and Research Institute and Deemed
University took visitors on a guided tour of the caves and
shared his rich knowledge of the caves and of Elephanta
Island.
Noted artist, Chandrajit Yadav made cave sculptures
with mud during the Festival.
The festival was a grand success in its aim of promoting Indian culture and exposing it to the world and the
88
Aiming to promote the unexplored marvels of Maharashtra, this festival, held in association with the Kasav
Mitra Mandal and the Suvarna Durga Paryatan Vikas
Bahu Udeshiya Seva Sanghatna, is a positive step in the
direction of boosting an emerging breed of tourists who
are nature lovers. The locals of Murud, Harnai and Velas
gave whole hearted and proactive support to the event.
Chikoo Festival
A unique ‘Chikoo Festival’ was organised by the MTDC
in collaboration with the Kokan Bhumi Pratishthan and
partnered by INTACH - Chapter Dahanu, Dept. of Agriculture - Govt. of Maharashtra, Maharashtra Rajya Chikoo
Utpadak Sangh (MRCUS), Dahanu Municipal Council
MTDC Events
& Dahanu Taluka Environment Welfare Association
(DTEWA) in Dahanu on February 9-10.
This beachside town bordering Gujarat is famous for its
vast chikoo farms. The Chikoo Safari took guests on a
journey along orchard-lined roads to get a feel of Chikoo
Farming hands-on-experience and appreciate the level of
difficulty it actually entails.
The festival was held at the Camping Ground in Bordi
under the swaying coconut palms. Events ranged from
a small fun-fair with stalls to showcase tribal art and
craft of the Warlis, agricultural products, fresh fruits
and their byproducts, a photo exhibition on the region
as well as outdoor attractions like the Warli dance, not
to forget Parsi and Irani cuisine. Tourists could visit the
weekly bazaar, join a sand castle competition, make and
fly kites or enjoy a bonfire to the accompaniment of local
cuisine at the beach. All in all, a weekend filled with fun
and frolic.
89
Nagpur
Mumbai
How Vidarbha confronts
social evils through
its festivals
Marabats and Badgyas
Chandrashekhar Gupta | Photographs © Rahul Gupta
Most festivals in India
always have a social or
religious connotation.
In Nagpur, the festival
of Marabats and Badgyas go a step further
and directly confront
social evils and criticise their perpetrators
through a procession
with effigies, writes
Prof. Chandrashekhar Gupta
90
Festival
On Bhadrapada Shukla Pratipada (approximately August – September) of the Indian
lunar calendar, a unique festival, popularly
known as Marabat, is celebrated in the eastern part of Vidarbha. It is held on a somewhat
larger scale and in a rather unique way in
Nagpur where huge male and female effigies
are taken out by various people and institutions while shouting slogans and beating the
drums. In the evening a festival of toy bulls,
called ‘Tanha Pola’, is celebrated by children.
Marabat and Badgyas are female and male
representations respectively. Marabats are of
two main types, viz. Kalee Marabat and Peelee Marabat. These, and various smaller versions, are in fulfilment of some vow or desire.
The Badgyas are male figures personifying
crime or nuisance, for example dowry, bribery, corruption, scams, scandals, encroachment, load-shedding, smuggling, etc or as
a way to disgrace or condemn someone associated with any similar social problems.
Badgya
Marabats are also
considered to have the
power to do away with
ailments and the processions are accompanied with such slogans
as “Khansee, khokhala,
ida, peeda, mase, murkute, rog, rai - gheoon
ja ge Marabat” (“O
Marabat, take away
cough, cold, pain and
sufferings, insects like
flies and mosquitos,
deceases and
epidemics”).
Journey to Janjira
Kali and Peeli marabat face to face
91
The Badgyas are male
figures personifying
crime or nuisance, for
example dowry, bribery, corruption, scams,
scandals, encroachment, load-shedding,
smuggling, etc or as
a way to disgrace or
condemn someone associated with any similar social problems.
Badgya condemning Inflation and Loadshedding
Marabats are also considered to have the
power to do away with ailments and the processions are accompanied with such slogans
as “Khansee, khokhala, ida, peeda, mase,
murkute, rog, rai - gheoon ja ge Marabat”
(“O Marabat, take away cough, cold, pain and
sufferings, insects like flies and mosquitos,
diseases and epidemics”).
Marabats and Badgyas are made of bamboo,
paper and foil. Kalee Marabat is in the form
of a bust of a lady with hands stretched sideways. She is bareheaded and has a dark com92
plexion, bulging eyes, and her tongue stretches out of her sharp-toothed open mouth. She
stands with open palms. In a way she is like
the goddess Kali or a tribal deity. As against
this, Peelee Marabat has a graceful body
shown seated on a seat with her right leg
folded and placed vertically. Her right arm is
shown resting on the raised right knee. Of a
yellow complexion, she wears a sari bedecked
with jewellery like a nose ring, earrings, necklaces, bangles, etc. All this suggests that the
effigy of Peelee Marabat appears to be a royal
lady or a queen.
There is an oral tradition in Nagpur which
identifies Peelee Marabat with Bakabai, the
widowed queen of Raghuji II Bhonsle, who
played an important role in contemporary
politics. This theory is indirectly supported by
literary and archival documents. It is further
suggested that due to Bakabai’s pro-British
policy, the people of her region were against
her and their anger was vented by taking out
her effigy in the form of a Marabat.
The tradition of celebrating Marabat coincides with the mid-monsoon season when
the environment turns unhygienic and begins
to fester due to the earth becoming marshy
and the stagnant pools of water turning into
a breeding ground for insects, flies and mosquitoes that lead to diseases like cough, cold,
fever, malaria, pneumonia, etc. The festival
is thus targeted at keeping the environment
clean and free of ailments, which is why
garbage and filth is collected in various areas and burnt. The first day of Bhadrapada
Shukla (August – September) is selected for
this occasion. A day or two earlier, branches
of Palash (Butea monosperma/ frondosa) are
bought and kept in the corners and at the sides
flanking the door. On the day of the Marabat,
people take these branches and join the procession. These branches of Palash, also called
Mendhi and Badgyas, actually represent a baton. A mock drill is observed to drive away all
forms of nuisance by beating the ground with
Palash batons and then burning them at the
junctions where four roads meet.
The procession with Marabat and Badgyas effigies are taken out before noon from the old
city area. Kalee Marabat and Peelee Marabat
are the two historical ones that start from the
Nehru Putala Grain Market and Tandapeth
respectively. They are said to be 130 and 128
Badgya on Ram Lalla episode
Chhoti Kali Marabat by children
Kali Marabat close up
93
Worshipping Kali Marbat
The author is Retd.
Prof. and Head-AIHC
& Archaeology Dept.
and Dir. Dept. of Travel & Tourism, Nagpur
University, Nagpur
94
Peeli Marabat
Peeli Marabat
years old respectively. The other Marabats
viz. Chhoti Peelee Marabat, Chhoti Kalee
Marabat, Laal Marabat, etc are spin-offs from
the original form of the Marabat and their
various postures are the fancy of some imaginative people. A small Peelee Marabat with
her hands stretched sideways like a Kalee
Marabat was recently taken out by the Peelee
Marabat Tarun Mandal of Navi Mangalwari
in Nagpur. The Matang Samaj of Juni Mangalwari came up with a Laal Marabat with
suspended hands while another new Marabat
was displayed by the Vidarbha Kisaan Samiti
and Rameshvari Mitra Mandal.
The new Marabat was depicted as a youthful
maiden seated on a seat in European style
with her left hand in a resting position and
the right hand in a boon-giving posture. She
was adorned with ornaments like bindiya,
nathani, karnafool, mala, bangdyas, etc.
Originally Marabat effigies were made of
earth and this practice has been continued in
some parts of Vidarbha.
Badgyas, the male effigies accompanying
Marabat, are personifications of the Palash
possessing great historical value. It is said
that when the effigy of Rani Bakabai was taken out as a Marabat by people to express their
anger, an Englishman’s effigy representing
the East India Company too was taken out simultaneously. History has it that the way the
British got hold over the Nagpur Kingdom
was a heinous act on their part. At this time,
Bakabai was in poor health and in a strange
coincidence she expired on the day the Marabat was taken out. Whether this was out of
ill-health or shock will never be known.
Meanwhile, the Badgyas have
always had interesting reflecips
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with a banner in Marathi stating,
“I have the support of several leaders. I am Veerappan, the sandalwood smuggler.” Other such effigies
have been of Pakistani leaders like
Ayub Khan, Zulfikar Ali Bhutto and Pervez
Musharraf as well as terrorists like Osama
Bin Laden, Hafeez Sayed, Ajmal Kasab etc.
for their anti Indian activities. Indian culprits
Distance from
like Harshad Mehta, Karim Telgi, too, have
Mumbai: 842 kms
not been spared too. The objective is to show
that these are people who have cheated the
How to reach:
common man with false promises or scams.
What probably began as a way of social awakening many decades ago has now also taken
on a religious form so that there are many
who worship Marabat as a deity. They offer her prayers and prasad while aartis and
bhajans are sung in her favour. A married
woman, for example, will pray to Peelee and
Kalee Marabat to bless her with a child. Interestingly, the local event is now attracting
people from outside the state and even from
abroad so that it has now given the Vidarbha
region an additional tourist value.
By Air: Nagpur airport has
frequent flights to major
cities across India.
By Rail: The Nagpur railway station is one of the
biggest junctions in India,
with trains from across
India stopping here, and
frequent connections to
big cities.
By Road: Nagpur is situated at the junction between
the National Highway 6
and National Highway 7.
MSRTC runs both intercity
and inter-state bus services to Nagpur.
Where to stay:
There are many hotels in
Nagpur, accommodating a
variety of budgets.
What to eat:
Don’t miss the Santra
Barfi, Saavji Mutton.
Excursions:
The Sevagram ashram set
up by Mahatma Gandhi is
a couple of hours out of
Nagpur.
Look out for tigers at the
Tadoba-Andhari reserve, a
few hours from Nagpur.
The Deekshabhumi Stupa,
located in Nagpur itself, is
an important Buddhist site
of pilgrimage, famous for
Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar’s
conversion to Buddhism.
Chhoti Peeli & Kali Marabat
Badgya made by children
95
Mumbai
Kolhapur
A Window
Through Time
The Town Hall Museum, Kolhapur
Text and Photographs © Yogesh Prabhudesai,
Courtesy: Directorate of Archaeology and Museums,
Government of Maharashtra
The Town Hall Museum in Kolhapur not
only offers an exciting
glimpse of the relics
of the Brahmapuri
settlement, but houses
the paintings and
portraits of some of the
best known artists of
the country
96
Museum
Mention the city Kolhapur, and images of its
lakes and temples, the most famous being the
historical old Mahalakshmi Temple are immediately conjured up. However, there is yet
another facet of the city which is sometimes
not explored by the tourists, the Town Hall
Museum. Located down the Bhausingji Road
opposite the Chhatrapati Pramilaraje Rugnalaya, the city’s civil hospital, the museum
is housed in a structure that the British built
in their typical style. Of great value to those
interested in architectural history, it was constructed by Major C Mant, a British engineer,
over a span of four years from 1872-76.
History
The museum’s history can be traced back to
1946, when distinguished archaeologist Dr.
H D Sankalia along with Dr. M G Dikshit
from Pune were appointed to carry out excavations on a hillock called Brahmapuri. They
Vishnu
Façade of the museum
Miscellaneous and Archaeological section
97
Entrance to sculpture section
Sculpture section
Weapon Section
Copper plate of Shilahara king Gandaraditya
sic make-shift museum of sorts was set up in
the ashram of a Jain swami, which was later
shifted to the house of Mr. Sankpal. Considering the fact that the collection would grow
over the years, it was finally decided to find
the treasures a more permanent home and
this led to the establishment of the Town Hall
Museum.
Vishnu idol, 18th century
Garuda Emblem of the Shilahara dynasty of Kolhapur
eventually proved that the Brahmapuri settlement flourished during the sovereignty
of the Satvahana kings. The excavation unearthed so many relics that it became necessary to find a place to store them safely. A ba98
From 1949 till 1953, the Town Hall Museum
displayed only archaeological remains as exhibits. Local artists however persuaded the
municipal authorities to create an art section. Visitors could now see not only the remains of the past in the form of weaponry,
pottery, etc but also appreciate the works
of distinguished artists from Kolhapur and
elsewhere. Eventually, with the increase in
the number of exhibits, in February 1968, the
collection was classified into seven precise
sections namely portraits, paintings, archaeology, sculpture, metal, weapons and miscellaneous.
Main Sections
At the entrance of the museum are two impressive 18th century cannons kept at lateral
positions behind which are placed a pair of
mediaeval elephant sculptures obtained from
the Mahalakshmi Temple. The first section
is marked ‘Miscellaneous’ which now also
houses the archaeological discoveries. However, before you can view the exhibits of this
section, you must move through a corridor
that has some beautiful sculptures carved out
of stone. From amongst the ancient sculptures, the one that draws maximum attention
is that of Vishnu, obtained from Raibaug in
Karnataka. The figure of Vishnu is flanked
by a canopy of a scroll with ten incarnations
carved on the stone itself. Another popular
exhibit is that of Chandra, depicting the moon
god seated on a chariot drawn by an animal
resembling a deer. Some of the other equally
bewitching works are those of Narada, Yakshi
and Surya.
This section leads to the one marked ‘Weapons’ which has a myriad collection ranging
from Stone Age axes to guns used in World
War I. Also on display are swords of different
types from the Mughal and Maratha empires.
Further ahead, along with the shields made
from the hides of rhinoceros and tortoises
are some historical weapons such as the Gurj,
Madu and Gupti. There also are various kinds
of pistols, small cannons, German helmets
and bayonets. Moving on, we come to the
‘Metal’ section where you can see iconic brass
idols of Vishnu and Mahalakshmi along with
that of Garuda, which is believed to belong
to the 11th century CE. Some of the copperplate inscriptions displayed here are worth
a study, especially one made by Gandaraditya, a Shilahara king, in the second half of 11th
century CE. This section also includes utensils, cauldrons, pitchers, tumblers and other
metal items used in households from the 11th
to the 15th centuries CE.
And so it is that we arrive at the main section, flanked by the busts of British royals
sculpted by artist Ganpatrao Mhatre in 1904.
The most charming statues among them are
those of Queen Mary, Queen Victoria, George
V and Edward VII. Besides these, there are
many other specifically assorted items on
display that include beautiful idols made of
ivory and sandalwood, porcelain dishes, dice,
decorative pots painted with a layer of lac,
Statues of British royals
Edward VIII
Jain tirthankara
Idol of Poseidon found at Brahmapuri
Elephant riders found at Brahmapuri
Damsel playing a flute
Madan
99
Roman staff-heads
Toy cart
Shri Yantra carved
on Shiv-linga and close up
Earthen wares from Satvahana times
18th century Marathi Almanac (panchang)
terracotta musical instruments dating back
to 1888, etc. Some of the exhibits that are
most appreciated are a chain carved out of a
single stone, a typical Maratha ‘durbar’ jacket with turban and shawl, hand fans, Marathi
almanacs, and so on.
the year 1901. Later on, this bell was replaced
due to some cracks on it caused by its incessant use. Among the other interesting relics of
the past is a bronze idol of the Greek god Poseidon which was discovered during an excavation led by Prof. Kundangar of Kolhapur’s
Rajaram College. Also, the evidence of the
Brahmapuri settlement is firmly established
by items such as a tiny terracotta sculpture
of Matrudevta (mother goddess), glass beads,
pendants, bangles, Roman amphorae, a terracotta image of a man feeding a parrot, cart
and lion in bronze, Roman medallions and
But it is the Portuguese bell that inevitably
attracts the visitors the most, especially because of the story behind it. It is said that the
bell was taken away by Chimaji Appa in an
attack against the Portuguese and was eventually offered to the Mahalakshmi Temple in
The author is Graphic
Designer and Researcher in ancient
Indian art and architecture.
‘Jal-bharan’
A Painting by Baburao Painter
100
colourful Bahamani bangle pieces that date
back to 13th century CE.
Showcasing Art
Having completed the main sections of the
museum, our way now leads to two cells
marked ‘Portraits’ and ‘Paintings’. As you enter, you realise why Kolhapur is also known
as Kalapur, or the city of art. The city has
been the birthplace of many a famous artist, filmmaker, sculptor and so on. It is here
then that you will find the paintings of Kalamaharshi Baburao Painter, better known
for his pioneering work in the evolution of
Indian cinema. The paintings also include
the works of Kalatapsvi Abalal Rahiman
(1856-1937) whose ‘Still Life’ and ‘Horse’
are considered masterpieces in the world of
art. Among the other artists whose paintings
have been mounted are those of Ganpatrao
Wadangekar, Ravindra Mestri, Bal Gajbar, R
S Gosavi, Chandrakant Mandaray, etc.
is yet another masterpiece with
finely detailed depiction of the
movement of the horse, the position of the wounded boar and
the attacking stance of the king.
Timings
The museum is open from 10.30
am – 1.00 pm and 1.30 pm - 5.30
pm on all days except Monday. Visitors must note that photography is
strictly prohibited. However, notebooks or sketchbooks are allowed. To
know more, call 0231-2540481.
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Distance from
Mumbai: 390 kms
How to reach:
By Air: Kolhapur has a
domestic airport, though
flights are infrequent.
By Rail: The Chhatrapati
Shahu Maharaj Terminus
is very well-connected to
major cities.
The section comprising portraits is equally
mesmerising, providing an introduction to
the skills of such great artists as G Wadangekar, Bal Gajbar and Ravindra Mestri with
the display of ‘Michel’, ‘Pandit Nehru’ and
‘Sudha’ respectively. Of the portraits created by Baburao Painter, the one titled ‘Korgaonkar’ is easily the most charming, and
also helps us understand his technique and
style. Children can often be found drawn to a
portrait titled ‘Madari’ that depicts very subtle emotions on the face of a man who stages
road shows with his monkey. What adds to
the liveliness of this portrait is the gesture of
the monkey. Shivaji Maharaj slaying a boar
By Road: The National
Highway 4 links Mumbai, Pune, Kolhapur and
Goa. There is multi-lane
expressway that makes
the drive easy. Regular
bus services are available
between major cities.
Excursions:
is a must-see in Kolhapur.
Jyotiba Temple is another
place to visit.
Hero stone at the entrance
The Panhala fort, roughly
23 kms away provides
impressive views over the
area.
Enjoy the serenity of the
Rankala lake.
Where to stay:
There are several hotels
in Kolhapur, as well as an
MTDC holiday resort at
Panhala.
What to eat:
Don’t miss out on the
famous Kolhapuri Misal.
A glimpse of the painting section
Meat-eaters will be
delighted by spicy red
and white chicken and
mutton curries, muttonpickle, a unique Kolhapuri
speciality.
101
Dahanu
Mumbai
Eating Chikoos
by the Sea
The Bordi-Dahanu beaches
Text and Photographs © Anand and Madhura Katti
Despite its proximity to
big cities in Maharashtra, the Bordi-Dahanu
coastline remains
unspoilt. Anand and
Madhura Katti
explore the region best
known for its chikoos,
and unique mingling of
Warli and Zoroastrian
influences.
Close to Mumbai, a 15 kilometre long stretch
of white sand beach bordered by fragrant
chikoo orchards, at the foothills of the lushly vegetated Western Ghats lies peacefully
removed from the chaos of city life. The region Bordi-Dahanu, located at a three-hour
drive along the picturesque Sahyadri mountain range in Thane district, is known for its
quaint beaches, fruit orchards, green mountains and content population.
Maybe Bordi-Dahanu has escaped the clutches of urban chaos partly thanks to the blessings of Mahalakshmi, the goddess of prosperity, whose temple is located at Charoti.
Charoti is a left turn and a short drive away
from National Highway 8, a few kilometers
before reaching Dahanu. A colourful array
of shops selling puja items and souvenirs,
including women selling lotus flowers, line
the entrance lane of the temple. What is im-
102
pressive here is the temple’s sandstone architecture which includes a Warli painting that
highlights the region’s tribal culture and its
strong links with nature.
A Green Zone
Dahanu welcomes you on a ‘fruity’ note. It is
a small town with historical links to the Warli, Portuguese and the Parsi communities.
Frequented on the weekends by Mumbaikars
looking for a getaway, it is best known for its
lush chikoo plantations along with mangoes
and coconuts. As a ‘green zone’, it was the
first among such regions in India to be declared ‘eco-fragile’ by the government. This
has fortunately curbed unplanned development and maintained its serenity. The Warlis
are its indigenous tribe and though quintessentially forest-dwellers, they have now become a pastoral community. They continue
Beach
to live in their tribal hamlets and are known
far and wide for their decorative mural paintings. As for its Portuguese influence, the remnants of a fort in the town centre continue to
be a reminder of its earlier rulers. The fort
now houses administrative offices.
Bordi Beach
The beach of Bordi is the most captivating
feature of the region’s landscape, extending
for a good 15 kilometres from Dahanu. Moreover, it is clean and its shallow water level
doesn’t rise above the waistline for upto half
a kilometre into the sea. This is what makes
it ideal for walks and picnics. Casuarinas and
chikoo (sapota) orchards line the beach, adding to its picturesque setting.
Warli Art
Many tourists come to Dahanu to study the
Warli tribe’s simple lifestyle, a result of their
age-old knowledge and wisdom. Shunning
outside influence in all its forms, they have
managed to survive for more than 2,500
years, passing down traditions orally and
keeping their identity intact. This intimate
knowledge of their surroundings is displayed
in their paintings. In fact, one of the greatest
contributions of the Warlis is their art that
was brought into limelight three decades ago.
The monochromatic paintings express various ordinary tasks, beliefs, rituals and customs. Originally these were painted in white
on the brown earthy surface of the walls of
Warli tribal house model at Save’s farm
A shop selling puja items at
Mahalakshmi temple
Garden Restaurant at Pearline
Beach Resort
Bordi Beach
103
Dahanu offers many
adventure sport activities like gliding, trekking and venturing out
into the open seas. The
surrounding mountains of Bahrot (1,760
feet), Mahalakshmi
(1,549 feet), Gambhirgad (2,270 feet) and
Asherigad (1,680 feet)
are good for trekking
their huts, occasionally dotted with yellow
and red colours during weddings or festivals.
Warli paintings comprise a variation of three
basic forms of the square, the triangle and
the circle. What makes them remarkable is
the symmetric depiction of their lives.
As a tribe and as individuals, the Warli way
of life is deeply entwined with nature. Their
gods are chiefly derived from elemental nature’s icons such as the sun, moon, thunder,
lighting, wind and rain. These are represented in the Warli pantheon and the ‘gavo devos’
or village gods are carved out in wood and/or
stone, represented in animated forms.
For those interested, the Indian National
Trust for Art & Cultural Heritage (INTACH)
has marked at least ten ‘gavo devos’ in and
around Dahanu to help tourists understand
this unique culture and November is when
the Warlis display a full range of their art and
lifestyle with a festival that includes the playing of such instruments as the tarpa, dhol
and gauri for their acclaimed ‘Tur Dance’
which is full of rhythm and vigour.
Home to Zoroastrians
The Zoroastrians or Parsis, known for their
huge business enterprises in India and charity work, hold the Dahanu region as historically important. The Bahrot caves at Dahanu
served as a temporary home to the Holy Iranshah Fire for 12 years. The Parsis’ holy city
of Udvada, which houses the Holy Iranshah
Fire permanently, is only a two-hour drive
away. Dahanu’s neighbouring areas such as
Davier, Nargoi, Zai and Tarapore also have
104
Shallow waters of Bordi beach
Crab sand ball formation at Bordi beach
Parsi settlements. These migrants from Iran
developed agriculture in the region. They
tilled the soil and turned this town green with
their vegetable, fruit and flower gardens. And
what is most evident here is their characteristic way of living and cuisine.
Exploring Dahanu
On a drive into the villages and along the
Sahyadri ranges, one can enjoy the beauty of
Gambhir Gadh, Aseri Gadh and Bhim Bandh.
Many creeks, backwaters and rivulets make
the region a green, soothing sight. Guava,
mango, litchi and rose gardens abound in this
area. Fishing is an obvious profession for the
locals of this coastal area and watching their
activities as they launch their boats into sea
at the crack of dawn and return at sunset with
the day’s catch make for a visually arresting
spectacle.
The Asavali Dam near Bordi was built painstakingly by hand. It has a mosaic of paddy
fields on one side and the tranquil water on the
Tree House at Tarpa Agri-Eco Tourism Centre
Asaavali Dam with hand laid stones
A Machan at the Chaudhari Baug farm house
Chikoo fruits at Madhur fruit farm
Zip Line activity at Tarpa Agri-Eco Tourism Centre
Mahalakshmi Temple, Charoti
The beach of Bordi is
the most captivating
feature of the region’s
landscape, extending
for a good 15 kilometres from Dahanu.
Moreover, it is clean
and its shallow water level doesn’t rise
above the waistline for
upto half a kilometre
into the sea. This is
what makes it ideal
for walks and picnics.
Casuarinas and chikoo
(sapota) orchards line
the beach, adding to its
picturesque setting.
105
Excursions:
at Charoti is known for its
sandstone structure and
Warli mural.
Spend a day being
adventurous at Tarpa, near
Gholvad.
For a more peaceful
ambiance, learn about
agri-tourism at Tarpa.
Shopping
One can shop for fresh
fruits, Chikoo powder,
date chocolates, chikki,
gooseberry candies homemade chips, pickles and
chutneys.
Best time to visit: August
to February, when the
temperature is between12
and 25 Degrees Celsius.
Dahanu fishing village
other, with scenic hills for a backdrop. A walk
along the stone-laid bund is exhilarating. The
area leading to the dam is dotted with tribal
colonies. Cows, chicken, children and ladies
can be spotted near their neatly built mudlaid bamboo huts, some with white paintings
on the front. Many of the tribal people now
work in the fields, picking chikoos or tilling
land. The women make for a cheerful sight in
their colourful wrap-around saris with bright
red ribbons and flowers adorning their hair.
Farm Stays
The Tarpa Agri Eco-Tourism Centre at Gholvad near Bordi, approved by the Maharashtra
Tourism Development Corporation (MTDC),
has an agriculture and environment-related
museum and offers many activities for visitors. The 35-acre model farm with 400 varieties of plants and trees is a good place to learn
about certain interesting facets of agriculture
such as organic farming, agro food processing, rainwater harvesting, vermiculture, beekeeping, fish farming, and more. The Tarpa
farm is itself a destination and one can avail
its traditional farm stay options to explore
and enjoy its many natural hues.
Anand & Madhura
Katti are Travel &
Food writers and Documentary film makers
based in Mumbai.
106
The Chaudhari Baug Farmhouse, recognised
by the MTDC, at Borigaon on the Bordi Station Road is yet another option, offering simple farm stay and eco-friendly activities. Its
machans (raised platforms) and tree-houses
add to the fun on this sprawling property of
13 acres. Bordi has a total of 350 hotel/resort
rooms. The Bordi tour can also be enjoyed
with a stay at one of the many Parsi homes
that offer this service. The MTDC’s beach re-
sort is currently under renovation.
Adventurous Outings
Dahanu offers many adventure sport activities like gliding, trekking and venturing out
into the open seas. The surrounding mountains of Bahrot (1,760 feet), Mahalakshmi
(1,549 feet), Gambhirgad (2,270 feet) and
Asherigad (1,680 feet) are good for trekking.
Amateur trekkers can also avail of services
provided by experienced guides. Tarpa is
also a base for some professional adventure
activities like rappelling, rope-walks and
rope-climbs. The zip-line here is a unique experience that goes across a huge pond amidst
thick woods.
The India-Parsi Connection
At the end of the seventh century, Arab invaders had defeated the mighty Sassanid
Persian Empire in present-day Iran. Zoroastrians were targeted and persecuted. Those
who survived set sail for the friendly shores
of India. The ship was caught in a storm and
passengers were washed ashore of Nagrol in
Western India. Legend says that their leader, a Parsi priest (known in the community
as a Dastur), led his people to the courts of
the King of Sanjan, Jadhav Rana. The Dastur
requested permission for his people to settle down in Sanjan. The king called for a pot
filled with milk to demonstrate that the place
was full and couldn’t take in more. The Dastur took the milk pot in his hand, sprinkled
sugar into it and returned it to the king.
The vessel didn’t spill over and the milk
had only become sweeter. The king was impressed with the metaphor and gave them
permission to settle down in Sanjan and the
Persian immigrants came to be known as
Parsis in India. The Parsis later built their
first sacred Fire Temple in Sanjan. The Sacred Fire, according to their religious texts, is
the son of Ahura Mazda, or the Eternal Light,
and is made from 16 fires. The Sacred Fire
was moved to the Bahrot caves on the hills of
Bharda during the Mughal invasion of Sanjan. After burning for 12 years in the caves,
it was then moved to Vansda, Navsari, Surat
and Valsad and finally settled in Udvada in
the neighbouring state of Gujarat, where it
continues to burn even today.
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Bordi is also known for its
education. The academic complex of the Gokhale Education Society is an ideal centre
of learning, providing an opportunity to study in Marathi,
Gujarati and English up to the
secondary level and also continue higher education for postgraduation and diploma courses in
engineering. Until the 19th century, the
tribal area around Bordi-Gholvad lacked
educational facilities. In 1918, Mumbaieducated teacher, Govind Ganesh Churi,
and an enthusiastic youth, Atmaram
Vithal Save, came to Bordi to establish
an English medium school.
In 1919, Trimbak Appaji Kulkarni, the
founder of the Gokhale Education Society, impressed by the desire of the locals to avail of education, started a high
school. He was helped in his efforts by
Shankar Ramchandra Bhise, a life member of the Society, and the school went
on to receive talented, dedicated and
idealistic teachers and staff. In 1921,
Krushnarao Mahadev Chitre joined the
school as a teacher and later became
the headmaster and in-charge of the
school’s Sharadashram Hostel for 65
years. The high school was named after
Soonabai Pestonji Hakimji after a donation of land and money by her daughter
to construct the school building.
Later, Acharya Bhise started ‘Mulodyog
Shikshan’ to offer business-oriented education along with the regular academic
curriculum. He made handlooms popular and students were taught to weave
towels, bed-sheets and blankets. Agricultural education was also included.
The Bordi School also nourished nationalism and its teachers and students participated in the freedom struggle of 1942.
The school also set up a wing for technical education with funds from Sorabji
Dhirozshah Godrej in 1962. A science
college was started in the late 1990s and
a B.Sc course of the Mumbai University
along with other courses such as M.Sc in
Chemistry and graduation courses in IT,
Computer Science and Commerce were
started in 2005. The Katgara Polytechnic offering a diploma in engineering
was started in 2011.
Distance from
Mumbai: 140 kms
How to reach:
is at Mumbai
By Rail: There are four
railway stations in the area
– Vangaon, Dahanu Road,
Gholwad and Bordi, which
are connected to Mumbai,
Surat and Vadodara.
By Road: Dahanu is just
20 kilometres off the National Highway 8 connecting Mumbai, Surat and
Vadodara. It is roughly
180 km from Surat and
200 km from Nashik by
road. MSRTC buses ply
regularly between Thane,
Mumbai and Dahanu.
Where to stay:
A range of hotels, resorts,
farm and home stays are
available at Bordi-Dahanu.
Pearline Beach Resort,
Hotel Beach Classic, Hill
Zill and Sea Woods are
popular hotels.
Tarpa and Chaudhari Baug
offer farm stays.
Many Parsi homes provide
for home-stays.
What to eat:
Crazy Crab Restaurant
and Garden Restaurant
at Pearline Beach Resort
specialise in Parsi and
Indian cuisine.
Rope Climb at Tarpa
107
Defying
Gravity
Rock Climbing
Samir Patham
Photographs © Monish
Chakraborty, Samir Patham
Forget your daily gym
workouts for a while.
Keep your long walks
on hold. Do your yoga
another day. It’s time
to indulge in one of
India’s increasingly
popular sports – rock
climbing. Samir
Patham guides the
reader through the
details of the sport and
how to go about making your first climb
108
Monish Chakraborty climbing Telbaila left wall (near Ambi Valley, Lonavala)
Adventure
Fingers tightly grasping a tiny crack just a
few millimeters deep, the weight of your body
perfectly balanced on your feet wedged into a
natural rock fault, your eyes desperately seeking your next hand-hold, the sound of your
heartbeat thundering in your ears, the force
of gravity pulling at you, while you cling high
above the ground on a vertical rock face. The
only safety preventing you from plummeting
to the ground far below; an 11 millimeter thin
safety rope attached to your seat harness.
Welcome to the world of rock climbing!
Rock climbing, once defined as a technique to
ascend rock faces while climbing mountains,
gradually evolved into an athletic sport in its
own right. Though pioneered in countries
like England, Germany and Italy, over the
last century it has spread across the world to
gradually evolve into one of the most popular
mountain-related sports. From the daunting
crags of Mont Blanc in Europe, rock climbing
in the past 15 years has now become a sought
after sport even in India, especially in the
Western Ghats.
The popularity of rock climbing can be majorly attributed to an instinctive human desire to climb. At some point in our lives especially during childhood, having scrambled
up a wall or a tree, our natural desire to climb
is extremely alluring. As a result, rock climbing has mass appeal, from the professional
mountaineer preparing to scale the heights
of Everest to an absolute amateur, presumable wary of heights. Contrary to popular
perception, rock climbing is not about brute
strength. Rather, it is all about balance, technique and mental determination. The ability
to overcome your inherent fear of heights, the
unquestionable trust and faith you must have
in a person holding on to your safety line and
the desire to reach the top of the wall, even
when you can’t hold on to the rock face any
longer, are mental attributes that must be
honed and developed.
Like most other sports, though a gymnast’s
physique is not required to attempt a climb
on a rock face, the fitter you are, the higher
you get. This sport often provides the right
impetus to get fit, especially if you are seriously considering it as a long-term hobby.
Strong forearms definitely help but the major
muscle groups required to be good at climb-
On the top of Telbaila right wall
Rappelling at Plus Valley (near Bhira village/Tamhini Ghat)
109
Rappelling at Plus Valley
Telbaila Fort
Climbing Telbaila right wall
110
ing are the core ones. Increased endurance,
fitness, muscle tone and enhanced stamina
are just some of the attributes of this hugely
popular sport.
Rock Climbing In Maharashtra
In Maharashtra, the Western Ghats present a
beautiful backdrop for adventure enthusiasts
who dare to indulge in rock climbing. The variety of rock formations and geological sites
provide a plethora of locations for both amateurs and professionals to test their skill and
endurance. Exceptionally popular are the
Kanheri Caves within the Sanjay Gandhi National Park in Mumbai as well as the Mumbra
Boulders and Manori Rocks on the outskirts
of Mumbai city. The scenic hill stations of Lonavala and Khandala also make for popular
locations. The hills of Karla, located 16 kilometers from Lonavala, are home to a cluster
of caves with sheer rock faces which provide
an ideal terrain for more seasoned climbers.
One of the most sought after sites for professional rock climbers is the much coveted
Konkan Kada cliff located near the Harishchandragad Fort. The cliff face is not just vertical but has an overhang resembling the distinct shape of a cobra’s hood. Commanding a
panoramic vista of the Konkan with majestic
views of the sunset, an amazing phenomenon
of this site is the cloud burst in which the
low clouds approaching the cliff get forced
up vertically as a result of the winds pushing
against the unusual geological feature of the
cliff, thus forming a mystical cloud wall rising
straight up from the cliff edge without passing over the top of the ridge. This truly is a
surreal experience.
Moreover, the sheer beauty of the Sahyadris
Climbing Telbaila right wall (near Ambi Valley, Lonavala)
Monish Chakraborty and Supriya Chakraborty
crossing the rock patch at Malang Gad
(near Kalyan, Mumbai)
Telbaila right wall- side view
coupled with the experience of rock climbing acts as an elixir of life. The best season
to set out for rock climbing in Maharashtra
is from the month of October right through
the winter when the weather is at it its best
and the surroundings are lush with vegetation. Though rock climbing is possible from
February to May, adequate precautions must
be taken against the scorching sun to avoid
dehydration.
111
Telbaila Fort - side view
climbing Telbaila left wall
Rock Climbing Workshop by Adventure-Pulse in Pune
to you’, today literally comes to life with this
sport. Artificial walls have gained tremendous popularity, especially in metropolitan
cities like Mumbai and Pune, thereby increasing the accessibility of this sport.
Samir Patham is a
trained Mountaineer
having climbed several
high altitude peaks
in Nepal and Ladakh
region as well as led
over seven teams to the
Everest Base Camp.
An MBA, he left the
corporate world to
pursue his passion in
mountaineering and is
one of the Founder Directors of AdventurePulse.
112
Artificial Rock Climbing
Rock climbing, by virtue of necessity and
an ever-increasing demand, has gradually
branched from ‘natural rock faces’ to ‘artificial wall faces’. The age-old adage, ‘If you
can’t go to the mountain, bring the mountain
Unlike in natural rock faces where a wide variety of anchoring tools are required to establish routes on a wall or a cliff, in artificial walls
the routes are pre-set. Built to order, with
various pre-existing hand and foot holds, the
technical equipment is greatly reduced to just
a rope, seat harness, carabineers and at the
most, a descender. Often, novices can make
an attempt on the artificial rock wall without
even worrying about wearing rock climbing shoes. The introduction of artificial rock
walls in cities has had a major impact, popularizing the sport like never before. Used as a
testing ground to train proper technique and
balance to young and amateur climbers, it is
also used just to encourage people to partici-
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For further
information
• Della Adventures showcases a well-staffed
artificial wall for novices.
Visit: http://www.dellaadventure.com/
adventure/adventuresports-mumbai-pune/
artificial-rock-climbing.
• Solaris Fitness World is
located at Mayur Colony
in Kothrud, Pune. Visit:
http://www.solaris.in/
index.php.
• The Adventure Plus
Resort facilitates rock
climbing for novices as
part of their plethora
of adventure activities. Visit: http://www.
adventureplus.in/.
Climbing Telbaila right wall
pate in a novel and fun activity.
Some of the most popular artificial rock walls
located in Mumbai are the Gold Gym Rock
Wall located at Bandra, the Arun Samant
Climbing Wall located in Goregaon and the
Hakone Rock Wall located in Powai. In Pune,
the Pimpri PCMA Sports Climbing Wall located in Annasaheb Nagar Stadium, Nehru
Nagar, Pimpri is the highest climbing wall
in India. The Raje Shivaji Climbing Wall in
Shivaji Nagar was one of the first artificial
walls built with the sole intention of encouraging young aspiring mountaineers. Private
firms like Solaris Fitness World at Kothrud,
Della Adventures at Lonavala and Adventure
Plus Resort near Mahabaleshwar have also
set up artificial rock climbing walls where
adventure enthusiasts can pit their might
against the forces of gravity.
With the advent of adventure sports in India,
rock climbing has truly emerged as a preferred passion for not just adrenaline junkies but also for fitness enthusiasts eager to
try something else than the daily workout at
the gym. With easy accessibility, reasonable
rates, high energy and drive, rock climbing is
truly a ‘must do’ activity.
• There is an online blog
dedicated to mountaineering in India, designed
specifically to encourage young and budding
climbers. It is also a
one-stop information
shop to find out sites to
visit and places to climb.
Visit: http://indianmountaineers.com/.
• Adventure Pulse is a
high-altitude and trekking company based in
Pune that specializes in
adventure programmes
in the Nepal Himalayas
and Ladakh region.
Its staff is trained at
the Nehru Institute of
Mountaineering and the
Himalaya Mountaineering Institute. Visit: www.
adventure-pulse.com .
113
Mumbai
Pabal
Indulge Your
Sweet Tooth
Puranpolis and Shrikhand
Radhika Ghate | Photographs © Sachin Naik
Maharashtra is known
for two very typical
preparations that can
be enjoyed either as
desserts or proper
meals – puranpolis
and shrikhand. These
are not only reserved
for festive occasions
but also comprise a
part of a regular meal
on the not-so-special
days, always looked
forward to by those
who have a taste for
sweet things
114
Food
When it comes to desserts, every region has
its own specialty. For instance, halwa is typical to North India or payasam to the South
while Maharashtra is synonymous with
puranpoli and shrikhand. Unlike in western
cuisine where the dessert is served as a separate course at the end of the meal, serving the
sweet dish along with the main meal is unique
to Indian culture. It has its place on the same
plate. In fact, in Maharashtra many sweet
preparations almost take the position of the
main course and the rest of the meal is then
planned around it. Two such sweet preparations that are considered main courses are
puranpoli and shrikhand. Though puranpoli
is traditionally made for Holi and shrikhand
for Dassera, these two delicacies need no occasion. Be it an auspicious celebration, social
dinner or merely a craving for something
sweet, puranpoli and shrikhand are always
popular.
Rightly called puranpoliche or shrikhandpuri che jevan (meal), along with their simple accompanying dishes like varan bhaat
(plain rice and dal), potato bhaji and green
coriander chutney, these meals satisfy even
the fussiest eaters. From the cook’s perspective too, all the ingredients required are conveniently stocked on most kitchens shelves or
Shrikhand
Katachi Amti
xxxxx xxxxx
115
Melted ghee (clarified butter)
Cane transportation system
Puranpoliche jevan (meal)
available in grocery stores all year round. A
high demand among consumers and a long
shelf life of both dishes if stored appropriately has also promoted the vast commercialization of these products.
Puranpoli
“Holi re Holi Puranachipoli”. The festival of
colours also brings with it the sight and smell
of puranpolis in kitchens across Maharashtra. Puranpolis are offered to the bonfire on
Holi Pournima night. The whole family eagerly waits to feast on the sweetmeat after
the ritual. The outer covering made of wheat
is called the poli while the stuffing made of
jaggery and Bengal gram forms the stuffing
called puran. Depending on personal tastes,
the puran is flavoured with cardamom or
nutmeg. Puranpoli is also made in other
states like Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Gujarat and Goa with some variations like a different size or substituting Bengal gram with
tur or moong daal or alternating sweetening
agents and is known by names like holige
and obbattu.
Even so, puranpoli is known chiefly as a very
traditional Maharashtrian recipe. The high
production of jaggery in Maharashtra also
justifies its preparation in the state. The harvest of the sugarcane crop and the production of fresh jaggery close to the Holi festival
naturally makes it the offering of the festival.
Jaggery is alternatively substituted by sugar
in many parts of Maharashtra, thus giving it
a different texture and flavour. Commonly
116
served with melted ghee (clarified butter) and
milk, occasionally flavoured with dry fruits,
cardamom and saffron, many places on the
Konkan coastal belt serve it with flavoured
sweetened coconut milk. A tangy curry called
katachi amti is also a typical Maharashtrian
accompaniment.
Recipe
Ingredients:
For the puran (the stuffing)
1 cup split Bengal gram / harbara dal
½ cup grated jaggery plus ½ cup sugar
or
1 cup grated jaggery
5-6 cardamom (elaichi) pods
¼ teaspoon nutmeg (jaiphal) powder
if you like
For the poli (the covering)
1 cup whole wheat flour (atta)
1 tablespoon refined flour (maida)
¼ cup refined oil
¼ teaspoon salt
Rice flour to roll
Method:
Boil the split Bengal gram in approximately four cups of water in a heavy
bottom vessel till well cooked. Strain all
the excess water and keep aside to use
for the accompaniment called katachi
amti. Add the sugar and jaggery to the
strained gram and cook in a heavy bottom pan till the mixture is semi solid.
Sieve through a puran strainer (especially available in the market) or grind
lightly in a mixer to make a smooth
mixture. Add cardamom powder and
nutmeg powder, mix and keep aside
to cool. The puran is ready. Knead soft
stringy dough with whole wheat flour,
refined flour, salt and oil. Keep aside
for two hours.
Divide the dough into small round
balls. Divide the puran into round
balls. These balls are approximately double the size of the dough ball.
Slightly roll the dough, place the puran
in centre, wrap the dough over it and
delicately shape around the puran ball.
The dough forms the outer covering
and the puran, the inner stuffing. With
a rolling pin, using rice flour to avoid
sticking, lightly roll flat to medium
sized rounds. Take care that the filling
spreads evenly but does not ooze out.
The polis can be rolled on a greased banana leaf or plastic sheet which makes
it easier to put the poli on the griddle
without cracking. Roast both sides
evenly, overturning with a spatula till
lightly golden, on a medium flame.
Remove and cool on a liner. Roll and
roast remaining dough and puran similarly. Serve with melted ghee (clarified
butter) and warm milk.
Tip: Puran can be prepared on the previous day. Puranpolis can be cooled
and stored in an air tight container
for 4-5 days at room temperature and
even more in the refrigerator.
Katachi Amti
In the Indian system of cooking, there is very
little scope and respect for wastage. Considering all the nutritive values, effort is made
so that every ingredient or cooking element is
put to optimum use before discarding it. Like
the strained water from cooked rice is used
as starch, the strained water from cooked
Bengal gram for puranpolis is used to make
a very tasty curry called katachi amti. Kat is
the strained water while amti in Marathi is
the name given to any tempered thin soup
Katachi Amti
lentil preparation. The aroma of roasted
cumin, cinnamon, cloves and coconut along
with goda masala or kala masala helps in
evoking the appetite. Boiling hot katachi
amti served over steaming rice and ghee is a
perfect gourmet complement to the puranpoli meal.
Recipe
Ingredients:
Strained water (from boiling the Bengal gram to make the puran) or four
cups kat
Lemon-sized ball of tamarind (imli)
2/3rd cup jaggery
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
Salt to taste - approximately 1 teaspoon
3/4th teaspoon kala (goda) masala
(also available in market)
3/4th teaspoon cumin seeds (jeera)
1/4th cup grated dry coconut
1 inch cinnamon (dalchini)
3-4 pods cloves (lavang)
For tempering:
Oil
½ teaspoon mustard seeds
¼ tsp hing (asafoetida)
½ tsp turmeric
4-5 curry leaves
Method
Soak tamarind for some time in a little warm water and extract pulp.
117
Tip:
Hung yoghurt (chakka) is
available in the market. A
little milk can be added to
adjust the consistency if
the shrikhand is too thick.
Add to the kat (strained water). Heat
on medium flame. Add jaggery, red
chilli powder, salt and goda masala.
Slightly roast the dry coconut, cumin,
cinnamon and cloves, pound them together and add to the above mixture.
Add tempering (mustard seeds, curry
leaves, turmeric, asafoetida) and boil
well. Serve hot over steaming white
rice.
fruits, chopped fresh mango and strawberry
pulp.
Charoli are lentil-sized light brown seeds of
Buchanania lanzan or Almondette tree grown
in Asian countries. The seeds, flat on one
side, are crushed and used as a spice in Indian cooking. Considering its distinct flavour,
it is used in desserts as well as curries, sauces
and stews. Charoli seeds have specific use in
Ayurveda and Unani system of medicine.
Shrikhand with Charoli seeds
Shrikhand
As the summer approaches and the heat rises,
there is no sweet as soothing as shrikhand.
Closely related to flavoured yoghurt, this
cold, sweet dish is a richer form, made with
sugar and hung yoghurt colloquially called
chakka. Even though chakka today is readily
available in the market, it is better to make it
at home by setting milk curd to get the perfect
sour quotient. The abundance of milk and
curds in Maharashtrian households makes
it an easy preparation. The curd or yoghurt
tied in a clean white cotton cloth hanging in
the kitchen is a common sight preceding the
festival Dassera in Maharashtra. Shrikhand
with combination of hot puris (round fried
Indian wheat bread) and potato bhaji is a hot
favourite amongst children. Elaichi (cardamom), saffron and nutmeg still remain the
preferred flavourings.
The author is a catering and hospitality
consultant.
118
To enhance its simplicity, dry fruits like pistachios and a special nut called charoli can
also be added. A very popular variation of
shrikhand is amrakhand made by adding
mango pulp to unflavoured shrikhand. While
shrikhand is regular feature all throughout
the year except winters, it is a good change to
have amrakhand during the mango season
in summer. Other variations gaining popularity would include adding chopped fresh
Recipe
Ingredients:
2 litres milk for hung yoghurt (chakka)
Equal amount of sugar as of hung yoghurt
1/4th teaspoon cardamom powder
2 pinches of nutmeg powder (optional)
5-6 sprigs saffron
A pinch of salt
Method
Boil, cool and set the milk to make
the yoghurt or curds. Tie the curd in a
cloth and hang overnight to drain all
the water content. The next morning,
the hung yoghurt (chakka) is ready to
be made into shrikhand. Add an equal
quantity of sugar (can be adjusted according to required sweetness). Mix
and keep aside for an hour. When all
the sugar has blended, mix well and
pass through a shrikhand sieve to
form a smooth and even mixture without lumps. Warm the saffron sprigs,
pound lightly and mix a tablespoon of
milk for even flavouring and color. Add
saffron milk, salt, cardamom and nutmeg powder to the chakka. Mix well
and serve.
119
MTDC Resorts
Accommodation
in Maharashtra
for details login to www.maharashtratourism.gov.in
Mahabaleshwar
Panshet
Ganpatipule
Dis. Satara
Tel.: (02168) 260318 / 261318
Fax.: (02168) 260300
Getting there
Karad
49 kms
Pune
120 kms
Mumbai
247 kms
Nearest Railway Station
Wathar
Nearest Airport
Pune
Dist. Pune
Tel.: (02130) 204060
Getting there
Pune
40 kms
Mumbai
180 kms
Nearest Railway station
Pune
Nearest Airport
Pune
Dist. Ratnagiri
Tel.: (02357) 235248, 235061, 235062
Fax: (02357) 235328
Konkani House - Tel.: 235348
Mobile: 8879222O38
Getting there
Pune
331 kms
Ratnagiri
50 kms
Kolhapur
144 kms
Nearest Railway Station Ratnagiri
Nearest Airport
Kolhapur
Matheran
Dist. Raigad
Tel.: (02148) 230540
Getting there
Neral
21 kms
Mumbai
108 kms
Pune
126 kms
Neral
Nearest Airport
Mumbai
Tadoba
Convention Complex, Dist. Amravati
Tel.: (07220) 230234, 230263
Mobile: 8875222057
Getting there
Nagpur
220 kms
Amravati
98 kms
Akola
50 kms
Amravati
Nearest Airport
Nagpur
Harihareshwar
Moharli, Dist. Chandrapur
Mobile: 8879222058
Getting there
Chandrapur
45 Kms
Nagpur
137 Kms
Chandrapur
Nearest Airport
Nagpur
Dist. Raigad
Tel. Fax: (02147) 226O36 Mobile: 8879222040
Getting there
Srivardhan
20 kms
Mumbai
230 kms
Mangaon
Nearest Airport
Mumbai
Shirdi
Tarkarli
Shirdi ‘Pilgrim’s Inn
Tal. Rahata, Dist. Ahmednagar
Tel.: (02423) 255194 to 255197
Fax.: (02423) 258106
Getting there
Nashik
88 kms
Mumbai 272 kms
Ahmednagar 97 kms
Pune
183 kms
Nashik
Nearest Airport
Pune
Dist. Sindhudurg
Tele. Fax: (02365) 252390
Mobile: 8879222042
Getting there
Malwan
7 kms
Kolhapur
160 kms
Nearest railway station
Kudal
Nearest Airport
Mumbai
Bhandardara
Dist. Ahmednagar
Tel.: (02424) 257032, 257 171
Fax.: (02424) 257170
Mobile: 8879222051
Getting there
Neral
21 kms
Mumbai
108 kms
Pune
126 kms
Igatpuri
Nearest Airport
Pune
Malshej Ghat
Dist. Thane
Mobile: 8879222031, 95521999
Getting there
Mumbai
154 kms
Pune
134 kms
Kalyan
Nearest Airport
Mumbai
120
Chikhaldara
Tarkarli House Boat
Dist. Sindhudurg
Mobile: 88792220, 880538900
Getting there
Malvan
7 kms
Kolhapur
160 kms
Kudal
Nearest Airport
Mumbai
Auronda House Boat
Dist. Sindhudurg
Mobile: 8879222041
Getting there
Malvan
7 kms
Pune
392 kms
Kolhapur
152 kms
Kudal
Nearest Airport
Mumbai
Velneshwar
Dist. Ratnagiri
Tel.: (02359) 243282
Getting there
Chiplun
60 kms
Mumbai
425 kms
Rajapur
Nearest Airport
Dabolim
Karla
Dist. Pune
Tel.: (02114) 282230, 282064, 242102
Fax: (02114) 282310
Water sports Facility Available
Tel.: (02114) 282384
Getting there
Mumbai
104 kms
Pune
40 kms
Lonavala
Nearest Airport
Pune
Ajanta T Junction
Mobile: 8879222035
Getting there
Aurangabad
112 kms
Jalgaon
59 kms
Aurangabad
Nearest Airport
Chikhalthana
Fardapur
(Ajanta Caves 5 Kms.)
Dist. Aurangabad
Tel. Fax: (02438) 244230
Mobile: 8879222036
Getting there
Aurangabad
112 kms
Jalgaon
59 kms
Aurangabad
Nearest Airport
Chikhalthana
Tourist Reception Centre
Dist. Nagpur
Tel.: (0712) 2533325
Fax. 2560680
Getting there
Mumbai
841 Kms
Nagpur
Nearest Airport
Nagpur
Various types of accommodation are available at
all these resorts.

Volume 2 - July - September - 2013

Transcription

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