Tom Haynes
Transcription
Tom Haynes
t a e r G Sandy Adventure Words | Tom Haynes Images | Rob Macdonald Cruising along the beach as the rising sun sparkles on the ocean we scan the salty horizon for the headland which marks the first stop on our sandy adventure, Double Island Point. D.I as it is affectionately known is about 60 kilometres north of Noosa on the Sunshine Coast and accessible only by 4wd. It is a place of extreme beauty, teaming with fish and home to some of the best waves in Queensland. DI is a place where uncrowded turquoise waves reel over white sand. A place where dolphins, whales and turtles are seen more often than not and a place to escape the daily grind 14 WHAT TRADIES WANT. Empty waves, excellent fishing, extreme beauty and plenty of sharks. and get back to basics. A destination unto itself yet no trip to DI is complete without a visit to Fraser Island just a stones throw away. The world’s largest sand island boasts empty waves, excellent fishing and plenty of sharks. My guides, Tim Boulenger and Dave O’Gorman are Fraser veterans and eagerly anticipate the excellent spear-fishing and surf on the island, as does shutterbug Rob MacDonald. Geared up in a new Nissan Navara D40 loaded to the hilt, the headland of DI emerges from the salty shimmer and anticipation mounts. WHAT TRADIES WANT. 15 DI in all its glory FA C T U R E D D e s ig n e d & M A N U in A u s tr a li a Built to protect. Great y Sand Adventure Arriving at DI, the waves are reasonable if not epic. There is plenty of swell running and after a 4am start we are all keen to get wet. Using the infamous rip near the rocks (which has caught many an unsuspecting tourist off guard) we are rushed out the back into the fresh head-high breakers. It is mid-week and we have the waves to ourselves. The craggy headland looms on the left and the endless empty beach stretches away to the right. A Sunshine Coast thunderstorm growls in the distance as we trade fun waves into the beach. Dave and Tim are keen to sample the fruits of the ocean and soon don their full-body camouflaged wetsuits. It is not long before they return, Tim having snared a 5kg Tailor. Jokes are made about sharks at Fraser Island, home to one of the greatest populations of sharks in Australia. Little did we know. Next stop is a short drive to the other side of the headland where in the right conditions waves can peel in perfection for over one kilometre. This however is a rare event and today is no different . The swell is just trickling into the protected bay and although perfect in form is lacking in size. Trading turns on the longboard, we hoot and scream each other into knee high waves which peel endlessly down the line. “What if the waves were bigger” crosses everyone’s mind, yet the session is fun and leaves us in high spirits for the journey to Fraser. Almost packed and ready to continue our journey, the threatening rain finally unleashes, thundering on the Navara. For some time we discuss who will be getting out to strap surfboards r DI perfection – If only it was bigge to the roof before Dave takes one for the team. A Queensland thunderstorm equals instant saturation. Our journey to Fraser Island means a 10-minute barge ride from nearby the small township of Rainbow Beach. There are two ways from D.I to Rainbow, with most choosing the hour-long Freshwater Track through the bush. Some brave the short but treacherous beach run where the ocean laps at towering sand cliffs and the renowned Rainbow rocks which have claimed many a vehicle. We choose the safer option and are relieved we did when we see numerous photos at the Rainbow garage of vehicles in various stages of ocean submersion after being bogged during this infamous gauntlet run. The Navara is made of the toughest stuff but somehow I think Nissan wouldn’t appreciate it going ocean swimming. Tim and his tailor Built Strong Utilising thick hi-tensile alloy materials and fully welded construction, ECB products are unmatched in strength. A one piece bumper section and gusseted shoulder tubes ensure protection when you need it the most. Lightweight Range of Finishes The Freshwater Track The northern side of DI Welded Gussets Manufactured entirely from hi-tensile alloys ECB products are much lighter than alternative steel products which saves fuel, reduces tyre and suspension wear leaving capacity for the important load. All ECB protection bars are available in brilliant mirror polished alloy or our range of durable powdercoat finishes which require no maintenance. Simply wash when you wash the car. Our durable powdercoat finishes are baked at 210 degrees to ensure a rock hard finish that will not chip and continues looking brand new for years. Invest in protection for the vehicle that your livelihood depends on. As a tradie your vehicle is a necessary tool of business, insist on only the best in vehicle protection for your ute, van, 4x4, wagon or light truck. All ECB Protection Bars are: Optional Winch Integration Air bag compatible Backed by ECB’s lifetime warranty Will not void your new vehicle warranty World's Best Alloy Bullbars! ECB’s range of Superior Finishes To find your local dealer call ECB 16 WHAT TRADIES WANT. Free call 1800 069 145 www.ecb.com.au WHAT TRADIES WANT. 17 NAV0428 A friendly campsite visitor Great y Sand Adventure Early morning paddle T S O M S ’ A AUSTRALI E I D A R T L U F R E W O P Relax in the champagne pools or do the opposite and surf in front of them. Wetting a high-tide line The crew at Fraser Island Barges had agreed to escort us across to Fraser and so the next leg of our journey began. Fraser Fun Timing is critical when beach driving, with mid to low tide being optimal and in some cases essential as high tide can cover the beach entirely. Hard-packed sand groomed by the outgoing tide stretches out before us and the Navara cruises effortlessly up the beach to our campsite where we cook fresh Tailor washed down with icy cold beers. The morning dawns with rain a distant memory and beads of sweat spring on everyone’s brow. The smell of fresh coffee meant Rob was doing his thing while Tim and Dave have been scoping out a nearby rock outcrop for crayfish. “Last time we came, we got our bag limit in half an hour” Dave says. This time the crays are elsewhere 18 WHAT TRADIES WANT. but the boys are stoked from getting really close to a bunch of turtles I sit back and enjoy my coffee and watch the small swell trickle invitingly into shore. It isn’t long before the ocean lures me for a paddle. Sharks cross my mind but the beautiful morning gives the probably misguided perception of safety. ”here sharky sharky sharky”, and in the waters off Fraser Island there are plenty to answer your call It is high tide and we are unable to drive anywhere so we laze around in the morning sun. Cicadas chirp happily and a wallaby inspects us from a safe distance. I wet a line but catch nothing but sun. Soon we can negotiate a path through the high-tide mark and while the sand is thick and gluey, the Navara’s unbelievable power makes light work of it. Dave and Tim are keen to go spearfishing at Waddy Point where Dave has seen some good setups for big fish. Sharks come into the conversation again as we discuss how the boys dangle their prey on a rope some 10 metres behind them as they hunt. To me, that says, ”here sharky sharky sharky”, and in the waters off Fraser Island there are plenty to answer your call. We leave the boys and agree to come back in a few hours after scoping out the nearby Champagne Pools, a spot renowned for its beauty both in the form of nature and Swedish backpackers. Parking among the throngs of 4wd tourist buses we set out on the coastal headland pathway. We are greeted with a great little wave reeling off the front of the pools. The sharkinfested Indian Head is only one kilometre up the beach and we hesitate before seeing another wave reel down the line. We are sold. The Nissan Navara ST-X Dual Cab turbo-diesel is the most powerful ute in its class. split-fold rear seating. It’s also got powerful safety features like 6 airbags and VDC. Under the bonnet there’s a powerful 140kW turbo-diesel engine that produces a massive 450Nm of torque with 3,000kg braked towing capacity. Out back there’s a powerful tub for all your power tools. And the Navara’s Utili-Track System™ can tie down the most powerful load. Take Australia’s most powerful tradie for a test drive at your Nissan Dealer today or visit nissan.com.au/navara On the inside it’s power packed with power features as well. Like Bluetooth® phone connectivity, auxiliary input and 60/40 WHAT TRADIES WANT. 19 Indian Head. “Ahhhh zerr iz a very big sharkenhausen!” Dave describing the Bronze Whaler, not the Swedish backpackers. The boys with their catch Jumping off the rockpools into the ocean, the first wave washes over me as I dive deep into the crystal water. Rob is right behind me and I think selfishly that there is now a 50 per cent less chance of being victim of a shark attack. Sunshine Coast surfing icon Brian Weir once told me, “Sharks don’t want to eat you. You don’t smell like a fish, look like a fish or taste like a fish.” This I’m told, is why most attacks occur in murky water or bad light. I remind myself of this to calm my nerves. The surf is far from relaxing. After seeing a massive dark shape in the swells and backpackers pointing from the headland, Rob retreats to the safety of the beach leaving me alone with the waves. My every nerve tingles from the adrenalin coursing through me. My senses are overloaded. I get my share of fun waves and even manage to duck into a little tube but as the tide drops the waves lose their form and I am happy to put my nerves at ease and head in. We later discover from a tour guide the dark shape was a manta Great y Sand ray and I feel a twinge of disappointment I had not had a close encounter with a shark. Yet just a few kilometres away, Tim and Dave were putting new meaning to the term “close encounter”. A three metre Bronze whaler – one of the more aggressive species of shark – attracted by the fresh blood from their hunt, had come to inspect the scene. Dave recounts: “I had just speared a Mangrove Jack out of the depths in the form of the Bronze Whaler. We managed a second shot on the fish to stop it exciting the shark further which hung around a couple of minutes before returning to the deep. It was at that point we decided to call it a day.” Stoked to have the boys alive and in one piece we were keen to check out some sharks from a safer distance. Indian Head is a stomp- I had just speared a Mangrove Jack when the shark charged at me. my spear was unloaded.... when the shark charged in at me. My spear was unloaded so all I had was my knife as the shark sized me out just feet away. I brushed its nose with my fins but held my ground and watched with relief as it slinked away. Charged with adrenalin we continued our hunt, until Timmy shot an eight kilo giant trevally. We knew something was up when the injured trevally limped towards us rather than fleeing. The reason soon loomed ing ground for sharks and it did not disappoint. Within minutes of our arrival at the summit we spot a large shark cruising the waters below, much to the delight of the many backpackers on the headland. With the tide rising, we make tracks back to camp, engaging in a little wakeboarding behind the Navara on the way. Back at base we prepare another meal of fresh fish. The beers are nectar as we recount the day’s excitement. Navara-boarding Adventure 20 WHAT TRADIES WANT. WHAT TRADIES WANT. 21 Fraser Island Barges www.fraserislandbarges.com.au 1800 Barge Great Sandy National Park www.derm.qld.gov.au/parks/fraser or /cooloola Noosa Fraser Island Our last day on the Great Sandy Island and we pack up early to escape imprisonment by tide. We plan to hit the tourist trail today, first stop being Eli Creek where crystal fresh water trickles through rainforest into the ocean. A short swim and a deep drink and we move on to the infamous freshwater Lake Mckenzie. This is the largest and most popular of over 100 freshwater lakes on Fraser Island. Pristinely clear, its brilliant blues contrasts strikingly with the blinding white sand. As a gentle hum of European accents fills the air we decide it is time to call it a trip. Cruising out through the rainforest, we marvel at the wonders of The Great Sandy Island. Sharks, dingoes, turtles, wallabies, rainforests, pristine lakes, empty waves, great fishing and if you go to the right place, not a person in sight. Fraser Island and Double Island Point are a must-do for anyone with a sense of adventure. Get out there! Adventure Great y Sand Harvey Bay 22 WHAT TRADIES WANT. WHAT TRADIES WANT. 23