Upstairs or Downstairs

Transcription

40+ SIMPLE PATTERNS
Bonus PATTERN INSERT
The
Unofficial
Downton
Abbey
Sews
Elegant
From the editors of Stitch Magazine
43
PROJECTS
YOU CAN MAKE NOW
Lady’s Dressing Robe
Gentleman’s Vest
Flapper Dress
Demure Book Cover
& Other Finery
Upstairs or
Downstairs
Which are you?
This magazine is unofficial and unauthorized. It is not
authorized, approved, licensed, or endorsed by Carnival Film &
Television Ltd., its writers or producers, or any of its licensees.
CREATE
THIS
Easy, Stylish
Tunic Dress
Bonus PATTERN INSERT
The
sewdaily
PATTERN
STORE
sewdaily
Unofficial
Downton
Abbey
Sews
Elegant
embroidered
shoulder dress
CREATE
THIS
Easy, Stylish
Tunic Dress
From the editors of Stitch Magazine
43
PROJECTS
YOU CAN MAKE NOW
Lady’s Dressing Robe
Gentleman’s Vest
Flapper Dress
Demure Book Cover
by tina lewis
& Other Finery
Upstairs or
Downstairs
Which are you?
This magazine is unofficial and unauthorized. It is not
authorized, approved, licensed, or endorsed by Carnival Film &
Television Ltd., its writers or producers, or any of its licensees.
Countess Cora is always
impeccably turned out when
she greets visitors to the
manor. And she would love this
classic, black silk dress with
embellished shoulders in jewel
tones. Three simple stitches in
silk ribbon embroidery enhance
three-dimensional, silk taffeta
fantasy flowers and buds. It’s an
elegant statement, especially
for welcoming guests to the
Abbey ain Grantham style.
FABRIC
——Main: 2 yd four-ply silk crepe, 54"
——Lining: 2 1/2 yd lining fabric, 44"
——Hem: 1⁄3 yd matching tulle
——Flowers/Bud: ¼ yd silk taffeta
scraps
OTHER SUPPLIES
——Templates:
— Front (A)
— Back (B)
— Sleeve (C)
— Front Facing (D)
— Back Facing (E)
— Front Embroidery Backing (F)
— Back Embroidery Backing (G)
— Embroidery Template (H)
——20" invisible zipper
——1 yd tricot interfacing, 20"
——Thread
——Sharp needle, size 12, for hems
——Hook and eye
FOR EXPLANATIONS OF
TERMS + TECHNIQUES USED
CLICK HERE FOR OUR
SEWING BASICS ONLINE
PHOTOS BY LARRY STEIN
© F+W MEDIA, INC. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this PDF
to be copied for personal use. Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document.
PAGE 1 OF 39
visit shop.sewdaily.com for more patterns
AS SEEN IN
40+ SIMPLE PATTERNS
sewdaily
PATTERN STORE
sewdaily
embroidered
shoulder dress
NOTES
——Seam allowance is 5⁄8".
——Stitch with right sides together
unless otherwise noted.
——Work with short 12" lengths of
ribbon. Secure the ribbon to the
needle by threading the needle, then
piercing the ribbon 1⁄8" from the end
and pulling the needle through. Knot
the other end of the ribbon.
——For a touch of luxury, cut the side
seams and center back seam with 1"
seam allowances.
CUT THE FABRIC
Transfer all markings.
7 Turn Flowers through the slits and
1 From the Main fabric, cut:
Buds through the openings; finger
press around the edges.
——One Front (A), on fold
8 Cut out the embroidery design
——Two Back (B)
——Two Back (B)
and layer the design with embroidery
tracing paper on the right side of the
right Front shoulder, aligning the
shoulder, neckline, and armhole edges.
Transfer the design according to the
manufacturer’s instructions. Repeat for
the right Back and reverse the design
for the left Front and Back.
3 From the Interfacing, cut:
9 Using silk ribbon and a crewel
——Two Sleeve (C)
——One Front Facing (D), on fold
——Two Back Facing (E)
2 From the Lining fabric, cut:
——One Front (A), on fold
——Silk thread to match fabric for hand
sewing
——2" × 3" piece of template plastic
——Crewel needle, size 22, for ribbon
embroidery
——4mm green silk ribbon on 5-yd reels,
three for stems, eight for flowers
——Embroidery tracing paper
——Pencil or fabric marker
SIZE CHART
FINISHED SIZE
BUST
CB LENGTH
——One Front Facing (D), on fold
——Two Back Facing (E)
——Two Front Embroidery Backing (F)
——Two Back Embroidery Backing (G)
WORK THE EMBROIDERY
4 Layer the Front and Back
Embroidery Backings, fusible side
down, on the wrong sides of the Front
and Back shoulders. Fuse according to
manufacturer’s instructions.
——Zipper foot
HIP
232"
37" 34 ⁄2"
433"
371⁄4"351⁄2"
634"
371⁄2"361⁄2"
835"
373⁄4"371⁄2"
1036"
38"
381⁄2"
1
1237.5"
38 ⁄4"40"
1439"
381⁄2"411⁄2"
1640.5"
383⁄4"43"
1844.5"
39"
45"
SAMPLE SHOWN IN SIZE 8
1
the charm. Trim to 1⁄8" from stitching and
across the Bud bases.
5 Trace the Flower and Bud shapes
from the Embroidery Template (H) to
the template plastic and cut out. Cut
two 2" squares of silk for each of the 26
Flowers and 12 Buds. Using a pencil or
fabric marker, trace the templates to
one of the square sets.
6 For the Flowers, make a ½" slit in the
center of the fabric Flower for turning.
Layer the marked squares on the
second squares. Using a smaller stitch
(1.5), stitch around the Flowers. Stitch
around the Buds, leaving the base open.
Tip: Inconsistent sizes and shapes add to
needle, size 22, work the stems in an
uneven running stitch (See Sewing
Basics) with ¼" stitches on the surface
and small spaces in between. Center
the Flowers, in the color order desired,
on the X marks and work Flower
centers in a cluster of 10–13 French
knots. (See Sewing Basics)
0 Reserve the Flowers at the shoulder
seams until the seams have been sewn.
Make a tiny tuck in the base of the
Buds; whipstitch (See Sewing Basics)
in place. Place the base of the Buds on
the X marks and whip into place. Cover
the base with a cluster of French knots.
Work ¼"–3⁄8" long leaves in the ribbon
stitch at intervals along the stems and
finish with small clusters of French
knots along the stems.
INSERT THE ZIPPER
- Insert an invisible zipper in the
center back seam according to the
manufacturer’s instructions, with the
zipper pull 1" from the top edge.
PAGE 2 OF 39
sewdaily
PATTERN STORE
sewdaily
= Pin together the center back seam
below the zipper and, using a zipper
foot, stitch the seam from the dot at the
top of the vent to the end of the zipper
stitching. Press the seam open and
press the vent open along the foldlines.
ASSEMBLE THE DRESS
q Fold the Front darts, matching the
dots; stitch. Press darts down.
w Pin the Front to the Back at the
shoulder seams; stitch. Press seams
open. Place the last Flowers on the
shoulder seams and secure in place
with a cluster of French knots.
e Pin the Front to the Back at the side
seams; stitch. Press seams open.
ASSEMBLE THE LINING
r Repeat Steps 13–15 to pin and stitch
the darts, shoulder and side seams of
the Lining. Press.
t Pin the center back Lining seam
from the dot below the zipper to the
dot at the top of the vent. Press seam
open. Press the seam allowances to the
wrong side above and below the dots.
y Wrong sides together, pin the
Lining to the Main dress at the neck
and armholes, matching the shoulder
seams and center front at the neck, and
the armhole underarm and side seams;
baste. Slipstitch the folds of the Lining
center back seam allowances to the
zipper tape, clearing the zipper by 1⁄8".
COMPLETE THE FACINGS
u Trim 1/2" from the Front and Back
Facing Interfacing shoulder seams
and 1/4" from the outer edges. Layer
interfacing on the wrong sides of the
Main Front and Back Facings, with the
embroidered
shoulder dress
interfacing 1/2" from shoulder edges
and 1/4" from outer edges; fuse in place.
Pin Back Facings to Front Facing at
shoulder seams; stitch. Trim seams
to 1/4"; press open. Finish the edge of
the facing by overcasting, serging, or
pressing 1/4" to the wrong side.
Repeat for the dress hem, opening out
back vent extensions; press. Slipstitch
the hem in place. Fold back the vent
extensions and slipstitch in place; press.
s To make invisible hems on the
o Sew a hook and eye above the zipper.
dress and Sleeves, face the hems with
weightless tulle. Trim the hems to ½".
Cut a strip of tulle 1" longer than needed
and twice as wide as the hem desired,
plus 1". Fold the strip in half lengthwise;
press. Pin the folded tulle strip to the
right side of the hem edge, raw edges
even. Stitch in a ½" seam on the hemline,
overlapping the ends ¼". Press tulle away
from the dress, then fold up the hem and
press the edge. Using silk thread and a
sharp needle, size 12, slipstitch the hem
in place, picking up one thread of the
fabric with each stitch.
SET IN THE SLEEVES
p Using a longer stitch (3.0), stitch the
COMPLETE THE DRESS
d Fold up the Lining hem so it is ¾"
i With edges even, pin Facing to neck,
matching center fronts and shoulders,
and pinning Flowers out of the way, if
needed; baste. Stitch the neck seam;
grade and clip the seam. Under-stitch
the facing. Turn facing to the wrong side;
press. Slipstitch the folded outer edge of
the facing to the lining, taking care not
to catch in the dress. Trim center back
facing seams to 1/4", fold to clear the
zipper, and slipstitch to the zipper tape.
Sleeve caps between the notches just
inside the seamline and stitch along
the back sleeve seamline between the
notches.
[ Fold and pin the Sleeve seams
together, matching the notches and
drawing up the stitching to fit; stitch.
Press seams open.
] Pin Sleeves into the armholes,
matching underarms, shoulders,
notches, and dots, and drawing up the
stitching to fit; baste.
\ Stitch the armhole seams; press
toward the sleeves. Finish seam by
serging, overcasting, or binding.
HEM THE SLEEVES AND DRESS
a Finish the edge of the Sleeves by
overcasting, serging, or pressing under
¼". Turn up the hem and slipstitch in.
shorter than the dress hem; press.
Trim Lining hem to 1¼", press edge
under ¼", and slipstitch in place.
Slipstitch folded Lining vent edges just
inside the folded edges of the vent.
SOURCES
Metro Textile Corp., 4-ply silk,
metrotextile.blogspot.com
Pellon, 865F Bi-Stretch Lite interfacing,
pellonprojects.com
YLI, silk ribbons and thread,
ylicorp.com
TINA LEWIS designs and sews in her studio
high in the mountains of Park City, Utah.
Her quilts, clothing, and accessories for adults
and children have been featured in numerous
publications. Often detailed with hand-stitched
needlework, her work has a fresh classic look.
PAGE 3 OF 39
RIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
LABELS FOR YIELDS
L
sewdaily
guide
selvedges
fold
XS
GETTING STARTED Basic techniques + terms you’ll
need to know for the pattern you have downloaded.
M
L
embroidered
shoulder dress
back
S
PATTERN STORE
XS
S
M
L
XL
M
sewdaily
XL
cut 2 XXxx
other text
L
|
PATTERN SYMBOLS & MARKINGS
XL
S
ASSEMBLING FULL-SIZE PATTERN PRINTOUT
XS
S
M
XS
When preparcut on fold
ing to print the PDF,
BUTTON + BUTTONHOLE
make sure that you are
PLACEMENT MARKS Solid lines indiprinting it at 100% and
cate buttonholes. A large open circle is
that there is no scaling.
the button symbol and shows placement.
Check the settings for
LABELS FOR
page scaling (should be
CUTTING
LINES
Multisize
back
selvedges
XS
“None”) and check the
2" 2"
S
patterns other
have different
cutting
text
preview to make sure
M cut on fold
lines for each size.
L
that you will be printing
XL
text
at full size. Make sure
PLACE ON FOLD BRACKET This is
that the box labeled “AuLABELS FOR YIELDS
a grainline marking with arrows pointing
to-Rotate
and
Center”
back
selvedges
XS
fold
S
is unchecked (instructo the edge ofFOLDS
the pattern.
Place on the
ASYMMETRICAL
SKIRT
M
tions apply specifically to Adobe Reader; if using another PDF
foldRIGHT
of the fabric
so
that
your
finished
L
FRONT
XL
reader, check for similar settings).
piececut
will2beXXxx
twice the size of the pattern
2 To ensure that the pattern has printed at the correct scale,
piece, without adding a seam.
check the size of the TEST SQUARE. The Test Square
should be 2" × 2”.
DS
GRAINLINE The double-ended arrow
3 To begin assembling the pattern, cut off or fold the dotted
should be parallel to the lengthwise
fold
margin around each page.
grain or fold unless specifically marked
FOLDS
pages are numbered in rows,
so the firstSKIRT
row of pages
4 The ASYMMETRICAL
as crosswise. Bias grainlines will be
RIGHT
is numbered 1a, 1b, 1c, etc.
Line FRONT
up the rows and match the
diagonal.
dotted lines together so they
overlap.
Tape the pages together.
cut
2 XXxx
LABELS FOR YIELD
Use the illustrated guide to match each piece. Once the pattern
back
XS
NOTCHES Notches are triangle- selvedges
is complete, find your size, pin the pattern to the fabric, and folS
M
shaped symbols used for accurately
low the coordinating line to cut out or trace the pattern.
L
XL
matching seams. Pieces to be joined will
LAYOUT, MARKING & CUTTING GUIDELINES
have corresponding notches.
1 Find the lines that correspond to your size and trace
other text
cut on fold DARTS Lines and dots mark darts.
the pattern pieces, either on tissue paper or directly onto
the fabric, using tracing paper and a tracing wheel.
The lines show where the stitching
the fold or cutting
2 If you are cutting pattern pieces
other on
text
will be, and the dot shows the position
cut two
on of
fold
the same pattern piece, fold the fabric in half,
of the dart point (signaling the point, at
selvedge to selvedge, with right sides together. Note that this
the end of the dart, where your stitching
technique is not appropriate for some fabrics, so check the
should end).
project instructions if you are unsure.
3 Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric as close together
PATTERN DOTS Filled circles indicate
as possible. Double-check that all pattern pieces to be
that a mark needs to be made (often on
cut “on the fold” are placed on the fold.
the right side of the fabric) for placement
4 Make sure all pattern pieces are placed on the fabric
of elements such as a pocket or a dart
with the grainline running parallel to the lengthwise grain unless
point. Mark by punching through the pata crosswise or bias grainline is present.
textthe fabric
tern paper only, then other
mark on
cut
on
fold
5 Copy all pattern markings onto the wrong side of the fabric
through the hole.
unless otherwise noted.
6 Read through all cutting instructions listed in the project
SLASH MARKS A dashed line (someinstructions for directions on how many pattern pieces to
times appearing with pattern dots)
cut out of your fabric and interfacing.
indicates an area to be slashed. Further
7 Use weights to hold the pattern pieces down and use
instructions for making the slash will be
pins to secure the corners as needed.
included in the pattern instructions.
8 Cut the pieces slowly and carefully.
1
Test Square
L
XL
|
XS
S
M
L
XL
|
M
|
|
S
M
XS
L
S
XL
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
PAGE 4 OF 39
embroidered shoulder
embroidered
sewdaily
PATTERN STORE
dress
3a
3b
1e
1f
2d
2e
2f
3d
3e
3f
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
2c
FRONT (A)
2b
cut 1 main on fold
cut 1 lining on fold
2a
1d
2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18
1c
BACK (B)
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
1b
EMBROIDERED SHOULDER DRESS
1a
sewdaily
shoulder dress
3c
18 16 14 12 10 8
6
4
2
vent foldline
cut here for lining
4b
4c
4d
4e
5d
5e
4f
FRONT FACING (D)
cut 1 main on fold
cut 1 interfacing on fold
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
4a
SLEEVE (C)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
FRONT EMBROIDERY BACKING (F)
cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
5c
BACK EMBROIDER BACKING (G)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
© Interweave Press LLC Please respect the copyright by not
©All
F+W
MEDIA,
All rightsorreserved.
F+W
grants permission for any or all pages in this PDF
Not to be reprinted.
rights
reserved. INC.
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distributing
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document
BACK FACING (E)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
5b
5a
5f
PAGE
5 OF 39
sewdaily.com
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patterns
page
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cutting layout
cutting layout04/04/14
sewdaily
PATTERN STORE
sewdaily
44"/54"
main
2-18
2-4
6-16
unfold fabric, then cut sleeves
fold
2-4
6-16
2 3/4 yds
2 7/8 yds
2 3/4 yds
2 7/8 yds
selvedge
Sleeve (C)
Sleeve (C)
Back (B)
Back Facing (E)
Front (A)
04/04/14
fold
fold
Front Facing (D)
Embroidered Dress
44” main
Embroidered
Dress
44” main
18
3 yds
selvedge
unfold fabric, then cut sleeves fold
Sleeve (C)
Embroidered Dress
44” main
Sleeve (C)
Back (B)
Back Facing (E)
Front (A)
fold
Front Facing (D)
fold
Embroidered
Dress
44” main
18
©All
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3 yds
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patterns
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sewdaily
cutting layout
cutting layout
04/04/14
PATTERN STORE
Embroidered Dress
54” main
sewdaily
2- 12 2 yds
14
2 1/8 yds
Embroidered Dress
54” main
2- 12
14
selvedges
2 yds
2 1/8 yds
Back (B)
04/04/14
Front (A)
Back Facing (E)
Front Facing (D)
fold
Embroidered Dress
54” main
16-18 2 3/8 yds
Embroidered Dress
54” main
selvedges
16-18
2 3/8 yds
Sleeve (C)
Back (B)
Front (A)
Front Facing (D)
fold
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patterns
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04/04/14
cutting layout
cutting layout
sewdaily
PATTERN STORE
Embroidered Dress
44” lining
sewdaily
44"
lining
2-18
6-18
2 1/2 yds
selvedges
Embroidered Dress
44” lining
6-18
2 1/2 yds
Back (B)
Front (A)
fold
04/04/14
Embroidered Dress
44” lining
2-41
selvedges
Back (B)
1 1/4 yds
Embroidered Dress
44” lining
2-4
1 1/4 yds
Front (A)
selvedges
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patterns
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cutting layout
cutting layout
PATTERN STORE
sewdaily
20"
interfacing
2-18
04/04/14
Embroidered Dress
20" interfacing
2-10
12-18
Embroidered Dress
20 interfacing
3/4 yd
7/8 yd
2-10 3/4 yd
12-18 7/8 yd
selvedges
Front Embroidery Backing (F)
Ba
nt
ck
Fro
ing
Fac
(D)
(E)
ing
Fac
Back Embroidery Backing (G)
selvedges
©All
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rights
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patterns
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1a
1b
2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18
cut 1 main on fold
cut 1 lining on fold
FRONT (A)
ROIDERED SHOULDER DRESS
1c
1d
1e
1f
2a
SS
2b
2
EMBRO
2c
2d
2e
2f
3a
BACK (B)
cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
3b
3c
3d
18 16 14 12 10 8
6
4
2
3e
3f
vent foldline
cut here for lining
4a
EMBROIDERED SHOULD
FRONT EMBROIDERY BAC
cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16
4b
OULDER DRESS
RY BACKING (F)
1, cut 1 reverse)
14,16,18
SLEEVE (C)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
4c
4d
4e
2,4,6,8
ESS
EMBROIDERED
BACK
cut 2 main (
cut 2 interfacin
2,4,6,8
EMBROIDERED SHOULDER DRES
FRONT FACING (D)
cut 1 main on fold
cut 1 interfacing on fold
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
4f
5a
EMBROIDERED SHOULD
BACK EMBROIDER BACK
cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cu
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16
5b
OULDER DRESS
BACKING (G)
1, cut 1 reverse)
14,16,18
5c
5d
,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
5e
ERED SHOULDER DRESS
BACK FACING (E)
main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
rfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
5f

Upstairs or Downstairs

Transcription

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