Prepper`s Guide to the Zombie Apocalypse

Transcription

Prepper’s Guide to the Zombie Apocalypse
Compiled by the Anonymous Prepper and Militia Member
1
Introduction
In today’s society, we have become dependent upon cell phones, the Internet,
big box-marts, grocery stores, and government. But what if the SHTF? What if
we lose power, water, sewer, communication, and all basic infrastructure for a
decade?
It’s not a real stretch. Scientists have estimated that half the population of the
United States could die as a result of a large Corona Mass Ejection (CME) from
our Sun. The CME wouldn’t kill us however, a large CME has the capability of
putting our society back into the stone ages by crippling our power grids. Those
who rely on grocery stores and big box-marts will become the first of the
Zombies. For the preppers, we not only have to survive the rise and fall of the
Zombie Apocalypse, we have to cope and rebuild after the Apocalypse.
This is a compilation of well-documented open-source articles. The articles are
found on multiple websites but referenced only once. The articles cover how to
make it yourself when everything else is lost. Not only how to make what you
need, but also how to use the byproducts of what you made to make even more
stuff. From how to build your own water filter, various explosives, radios, lye,
soap, yeast, ethanol fuel, and diesel. Things you can barter with like whiskey,
vodka, mead, wine and more. Building your own kiln and refractory furnace to
make the products we use in life.
“If we ever have to start over, at least be armed with knowledge.”
~ The Prepper
Find your local Prepper nets today and establish a rapport with them
http://americanpreppersnetwork.net/viewforum.php?f=36
2
DISCLAIMER
The United States used to be a free country, but today, that’s not the case.
Nearly everything in this book is illegal to include catching rainwater. However,
reading about the contents of this book is still legal. Subsequently, this book is
intended for entertainment/novelty reading only.
By willfully reading this book you acknowledge the following:




I am not a Zombie
I am a human
I understand nothing in this book has been independently verified
As a human I am responsible for my own actions and hold all other
humans harmless
 I blame no other human for my actions
 I will not share the contents of this book with Zombies
However, if the SHTF… and the contents of this book are necessary for survival
in a Post Constitutional Zombie Apocalyptic Society, please use Proper
Protective Equipment (PPE). This may include but is not limited to: eye
protection, respirator, nitrile gloves, silicon gloves, leather gloves, chemical
protective suit, knee & elbow pads, level four body armor, hearing protection,
face shield, chemical hood, shotguns, baseball bats with spikes, hockey masks,
PVC suits (don’t wanna get any on you)…
Nearly all ingredients listed herein are available online. A good prepper has
those materials before they’re needed. However, directions are included for
making nearly everything you will read about. Together we can survive the
Zombie Apocalypse and rebuild society.
Lastly
This book is worthless as an E-Book. On the day you need this book, there
probably won’t be electricity. If you downloaded this as an E-Book, please print
it, take a three hole punch to it, and secure the book in a three ring binder.
3
EMERGENCY PHONE NUMBERS
Sheriff:____________________________________________
Police:_____________________________________________
Fire:_______________________________________________
Urgent Care:________________________________________
Hospital:____________________________________________
Poison Control:______________________________________
TV:________________________________________________
Internet:____________________________________________
Electricity:__________________________________________
Gas:________________________________________________
Water:______________________________________________
Plumber:____________________________________________
Electrician:_________________________________________
4
FAMILY CONTACT INFORMATION
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
5
RESOURCES
In a Zombie Apocalypse scenario, the non-preppers will make a run on grocery stores,
convenience stores, gas stations, and all primary resources while the smart preppers are
quietly waiting in a hide, their home, or elsewhere. Keep a list of secondary resources e.g.
where do the grocery stores get their food? Where do the gas stations get their propane and
fuel? Where are the best tool rental places? Where are the auto parts stores and salvage
yards?
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
6
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
___________________________________
7
INITIAL INCIDENT FREQUENCIES
Have a Communication Plan. When family members are separated during an emergency,
there’s extreme stress. Effective communications can help resolve this. In addition to cell
phones, ensure all vehicles and bugout bags have at least a handheld two-way radio.
Establish your Communication Plan and fill in the details that are important to your family.
What channel or frequency will your family use during an emergency?
Primary:____________________
Secondary:__________________
What are the frequencies of HAM radio repeaters in your area and along any bugout routes you
may need to use?
LOCATION
REPEATER
FREQUENCY
____________
_______________
________________
____________
_______________
________________
____________
_______________
________________
____________
_______________
________________
____________
_______________
________________
FRIENDS
Name
Calls Sign
__________________________
______________________
__________________________
______________________
__________________________
______________________
8
Store Your Local Maps Here
You can get three ring binder insert sleeves or document protectors at any office supply store.
Annotate on your maps rally points for the family and team members. The chances that
everyone will be together when an emergency occurs is slim. Some family members may not
be able to get back to the house for whatever reason during the initial phase of an emergency.
Where will these dislocated family members go to find you, or where will you find them if your
Communication Plan fails.
Annotate bugout routes by vehicle or foot. Try to ensure that you have routes east and west,
as well as north and south to get away from the center mass of the crisis. Try to choose routes
that everyone else won’t use and choose routes which don’t have lots of bridges or easily
damaged infrastructure. Train tracks are great, they typically have a lot of concealment and
rarely over a 4% incline in grade. During a Zombie Apocalypse, trains may not be running,
unless they transporting Zombies; thus train tracks may be your safest corridor for movement.
Annotate your secondary resources on your maps.
Annotate all water sources on maps.
9
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SUBJECT
PAGE NUMBER
Water
Food
Shelter
Security
Field Sanitation
Communication
Bartering
Entertainment
Reference Material
11
20
24
27
48
62
72
103
104
10
WATER
Water is your most important life resource. The Government recommends that you have no
less than a three day supply of water on hand for every person in your household, to include
your pets. The Government estimates that each person requires 1 gallon per day however, that
is very subjective. Some people require more water than others, even when inactive. For
prepping scenarios, assume the worst conditions with lots of physical activities requiring the
most water. While the Government may say prep for three days, we have to ask- “During a
Zombie Apocalypse, who trusts the Government?” With that in mind, prep like your life
depends on what you do rather than what the Government suggests, because your life may one
day depend on it. An additional factor to consider is where you live. In some locations, water
may be plentiful, desert and high elevation areas may require you to store even more water.
WATER STORAGE
It’s recommended you purchase commercially bottled water, in order to prepare the safest and
most reliable emergency water supply. Keep bottled water in its original container and do not
open until you need to use it.1
CONTAINER CONSIDERATIONS
There are a multitude of water storage systems available from 5 gallons through 500 gallons.
These larger containers are convenient for filling and storing water, but think about the cons
too. What if you had to bugout and all your water was in one or more huge containers? It’s not
helping you. What if you have flying debris, a falling tree, a stray bullet, or some object
ruptures that container? All of your water will be gone in one incident.
While it’s less convenient, consider storing water in other containers, such as new or used 1 or
2 liter bottles or similar vessels. Then store those smaller bottles in large heavy duty trash
containers. If that larger container is damaged by Zombies, the majority of your water will still
be safe and accessible. The heavy weight container will protect the lighter weight bottles from
UV damage. If you have to bugout, your water is easier to move in smaller containers.
PREPARING YOUR OWN CONTAINERS OF WATER
It is recommended you purchase food grade water storage containers from surplus or camping
supplies stores to use for water storage.
1
http://www.ready.gov/water
11
Before filling with water, thoroughly clean the containers with dishwashing soap and water and
rinse completely so there is no residual soap.
If you chose to use your own storage containers, choose two-liter plastic soft drink bottles – not
plastic jugs or cardboard containers that have had milk or fruit juice in them. Milk protein and
fruit sugars cannot be adequately removed from these containers and provide an environment
for bacterial growth when water is stored in them. Cardboard containers also leak easily and
are not designed for long-term storage of liquids. Also, do not use glass containers, because
they can break and are heavy.
STORING WATER IN PLASTIC SODA BOTTLES
Follow these steps for storing water in plastic soda bottles.
Thoroughly clean the bottles with dishwashing soap and water, and rinse completely so there is
no residual soap.
Sanitize the bottles by adding a solution of 1 teaspoon of non-scented liquid household chlorine
bleach to a quart of water. Mix the sanitizing solution in the bottle so that it touches all
surfaces. After sanitizing the bottle, thoroughly rinse out the sanitizing solution with clean
water.
Fill the bottle to the top with regular tap water. If the tap water has been commercially treated
from a water utility with chlorine, you do not need to add anything else to the water to keep it
clean. If the water you are using comes from a well or water source that is not treated with
chlorine, add two drops of non-scented liquid household chlorine bleach to the water. Let the
water stand for 30 minutes before using.
A slight chlorine odor should be noticeable in the water, if not, add another dose of bleach and
allow the water to stand another 15 minutes.
Tightly close the container using the original cap. Be careful not to contaminate the cap by
touching the inside of it with your finger. Place a date on the outside of the container so you
can know when you filled it. Store in cool, dark place.
Water can also be treated with water purification tablets that can be purchased at most
sporting goods stores.
Water that has not been commercially bottled should be replaced every six months. That line
was added by the Government as their CYA. Truth be told, all water on earth is about 4 billion
years old. Just run it through a water filter and it’s be like new.
12
WATER TREATMENT
If you have used all of your stored water and there are no other reliable clean water sources, it
may become necessary in an emergency situation to treat suspicious water. Ensure there are
no Zombie around when collecting suspicious water. Treat all water of uncertain quality before
using it for drinking, food washing or preparation, washing dishes, brushing teeth or making ice.
In addition to having a bad odor and taste, contaminated water can contain microorganisms
(germs) that cause diseases such as dysentery, cholera, typhoid and hepatitis. 2
There are many ways to treat water. None is perfect. Often the best solution is a combination
of methods. Before treating, let any suspended particles settle to the bottom or strain them
through coffee filters or layers of clean cloth. Make sure you have the necessary materials in
your disaster supplies kit for the chosen water treatment method.
BOILING
Boiling is the safest method of treating water. In a large pot or kettle, bring water to a rolling
boil for one full minute, keeping in mind that some water will evaporate. Let the water cool
before drinking.
Boiled water will taste better if you put oxygen back into it by pouring the water back and forth
between two clean containers. This also will improve the taste of stored water. 3
CHLORINATION
You can use household liquid bleach to kill microorganisms. Use only regular household liquid
bleach that contains 5.25 to 6.0 percent sodium hypochlorite. Do not use scented bleaches,
color safe bleaches or bleaches with added cleaners. Because the potency of bleach diminishes
with time, use bleach from a newly opened or unopened bottle.
Add 16 drops (1/8 teaspoon) of bleach per gallon of water, stir and let stand for 30 minutes.
The water should have a slight bleach odor. If it doesn’t, then repeat the dosage and let stand
another 15 minutes. If it still does not smell of chlorine, discard it and find another source of
water.
2
http://www.ready.gov/managing-water
3
http://www.ready.gov/managing-water
13
Other chemicals, such as iodine or water treatment products sold in camping or surplus stores
that do not contain 5.25 or 6.0 percent sodium hypochlorite as the only active ingredient, are
not recommended and should not be used. 3
DISTILLATION
While boiling and chlorination will kill most microbes in water, distillation will remove microbes
(germs) that resist these methods, as well as heavy metals, salts and most other chemicals.
Distillation involves boiling water and then collection of only the vapor that condenses. The
condensed vapor will not include salt or most other impurities. To distill, fill a pot halfway with
water.
Tie a cup to the handle on the pot’s lid so that the cup will hang right-side-up when the lid is
upside-down (make sure the cup is not dangling into the water) and boil the water for 20
minutes. The water that drips from the lid into the cup is distilled. 3
WATER SOURCES
As part of your resource list, ensure 1st, 2nd, and 3rd tier water resources are identified and
plotted on your maps.
WATER TREATMENT FOR BACKCOUNTRY TRAVEL AND USE
Except for boiling, few of the water treatment methods are 100% effective in removing all
pathogens. 4

Protozoa - Cryptosporidium
o
Potential health effects from ingestion of water contaminated with
Cryptosporidium are:

o
Sources of Cryptosporidium in drinking water are:

o
Human and animal fecal waste.
Methods that may remove some or all of Cryptosporidium from drinking water are:

4
Gastrointestinal illness (for example, diarrhea, vomiting, cramps).
Boiling (Rolling boil for 1 minute) has a very high effectiveness in killing
Cryptosporidium;
http://www.cdc.gov/healthywater/drinking/travel/backcountry_water_treatment.html
14


Filtration has a high effectiveness in removing Cryptosporidium when using
an absolute less than or equal to 1 micron filter (NSF Standard 53 or 58 rated
"cyst reduction / removal" filter);

Disinfection with iodine or chlorine is not effective in killing Cryptosporidium;

Disinfection with chlorine dioxide has a low to moderate effectiveness in
killing Cryptosporidium;

Combination filtration and disinfection has a very high effectiveness in
removing and killing Cryptosporidium when used with chlorine dioxide and
an absolute less than or equal to 1 micron filter (NSF Standard 53 or 58 rated
"cyst reduction / removal" filter).
Protozoa - Giardia intestinalis (also known as Giardia lamblia)
o
Potential health effects from ingestion of water contaminated with Giardia are:

o
Sources of Giardia in drinking water are:

o

Methods that may remove some or all of Giardia from drinking water are:

Giardia;

Filtration has a high effectiveness in removing Giardia when using an
absolute less than or equal to 1 micron filter (NSF Standard 53 or 58 rated
"cyst reduction / removal" filter);

Disinfection with iodine or chlorine has a low to moderate effectiveness in
killing Giardia;

Disinfection with chlorine dioxide has a high effectiveness in killing Giardia;

removing and killing Giardia when used with chlorine dioxide and an
absolute less than or equal to 1 micron filter (NSF Standard 53 or 58 rated
"cyst reduction / removal" filter).
Bacteria - (for example, Campylobacter, Salmonella, Shigella, E. coli)
o
Potential health effects from ingestion of water contaminated with bacteria are:

15
o
Sources of bacteria in drinking water are:

o

Methods that may remove some or all of bacteria from drinking water are:

bacteria;

Filtration has a moderate effectiveness in removing bacteria when using an
absolute less than or equal to 0.3 micron filter;

Disinfection with iodine or chlorine has a high effectiveness in killing
bacteria;

Disinfection with chlorine dioxide has a high effectiveness in killing bacteria;

removing and killing bacteria when used with iodine, chlorine, or chlorine
dioxide and an absolute less than or equal to 0.3 micron filter (NSF Standard
53 or 58 rated "cyst reduction / removal" filter).
Viruses - (for example, enterovirus, hepatitis A, norovirus, rotavirus)
o
Potential health effects from ingestion of water contaminated with viruses are:

o
Sources of viruses in drinking water are:

o
Gastrointestinal illness (for example, diarrhea, vomiting, cramps), hepatitis,
meningitis.
Methods that may remove some or all of viruses from drinking water are:

Boiling (Rolling boil for 1 minute minimum) has a very high effectiveness in
killing viruses;

Filtration is not effective in removing viruses;

Disinfection with iodine or chlorine has a high effectiveness in killing viruses;

Disinfection with chlorine dioxide has a high effectiveness in killing viruses;

Disinfection has a high effectiveness in killing viruses when used with iodine,
chlorine, or chlorine dioxide.
Things to Remember
16
Please remember that:

Boiling can be used as a pathogen reduction method that should kill all pathogens. Water
should be brought to a rolling boil for 1 minute. At altitudes greater than 6,562 feet
(greater than 2000 meters), you should boil water for 3 minutes.

Filtration can be used as a pathogen reduction method against most microorganisms,
depending on the pore size of the filter, amount of the contaminant, particle size of the
contaminant, and charge of the contaminant particle. Manufacturer’s instructions must
be followed. More information on selecting an appropriate water filter can be found at
http://www.cdc.gov/crypto/gen_info/filters.html. Only filters that contain a chemical
disinfectant matrix will be effective against some viruses.

Disinfection can be used as a pathogen reduction method against microorganisms.
However, contact time, disinfectant concentration, water temperature, water turbidity
(cloudiness), water pH, and many other factors can impact the effectiveness of chemical
disinfection. The length of time and concentration of disinfectant varies by manufacturer
and effectiveness of pathogen reduction depends on the product. Depending on these
factors, 100% effectiveness may not be achieved. Manufacturer’s instructions must be
followed.

If boiling water is not possible, a combination of filtration and chemical disinfection is the
most effective pathogen reduction method in drinking water for backcountry or travel
use. Manufacturer’s instructions must be followed.
Other treatment methods can be effective against some of the above pathogens:

Ultraviolet Light (UV Light) can be used as a pathogen reduction method against some
microorganisms. The technology requires effective prefiltering due to its dependence on
low water turbidity (cloudiness), the correct power delivery, and correct contact times to
achieve maximum pathogen reduction. UV might be an effective method in pathogen
reduction in backcountry water; there is a lack of independent testing data available on
specific systems. Manufacturer’s instructions must be followed.

MIOX® systems use a salt solution to create mixed oxidants, primarily chlorine. Chlorine
has a low to moderate effectiveness in killing Giardia, and a high effectiveness in killing
bacteria and viruses. Manufacturer’s instructions must be followed.
Important: Water that has been disinfected with iodine is NOT recommended for pregnant
women, people with thyroid problems, those with known hypersensitivity to iodine, or
continuous use for more than a few weeks at a time.
17
HOW TO MAKE A WATER FILTER5
Have at least 2 containers for water. One should be used to hold unfiltered water and the
other should only be used for filtered water. If you have more, one can be converted into a
filter.
Poke small holes into the bottom of the filter container. These holes should allow the filtered
water through, but not the filtering materials.
Locate filtering agents. These materials can vary in a survival situation, but good materials
include small rocks or gravel, charcoal, sand, or cotton clothing.
 It can also be useful to carry coffee filters or cotton balls in your gear.
Crush charcoal pieces from your campfire with a tool or rock until they become very small
pieces.
Layer your materials to sift out different particles. You should arrange your layers to filter
larger pieces out first, then increasingly smaller ones.
 An example of a properly layered filter would be gravel or rocks first, followed by
sand and charcoal layers and finished with cotton or coffee filters to catch the
smallest particles.
Pour the unfiltered water into the makeshift filter and allow the water to drain into the next
container. You might want to pour the water through a couple of
5
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Water-Filter
18
19
FOOD
Consider the following things when putting together your emergency food supplies: 6





Store at least a three day supply of non-perishable food.
Choose foods your family will eat.
Remember any special dietary needs.
Avoid foods that will make you thirsty.
Choose salt-free crackers, whole grain cereals and canned foods with high liquid
content.
Following a disaster, there may be power outages that could last for several days. Stock canned
foods, dry mixes and other staples that do not require refrigeration, cooking, water or special
preparation. Be sure to include a manual can opener and eating utensils.
The following items are suggested when selecting emergency food supplies. You may already
have many of these on hand.
 Ready-to-eat canned meats, fruits, vegetables and a can opener
 Protein or fruit bars
 Dry cereal or granola
 Peanut butter
 Dried fruit
 Nuts
 Crackers
 Canned juices
 Non-perishable pasteurized milk
 High energy foods
6
http://www.ready.gov/food
20



Vitamins
Food for infants
Comfort/stress foods
FOOD SAFETY AND SANITATION
Flood, fire, national disaster or the loss of power from high winds, snow or ice could jeopardize
the safety of your food. Knowing what to do before and after an emergency can help you
reduce your risk of illness and minimize the amount of food that may be lost due to spoilage.
Power outages can occur at any time of the year and it may take from a few hours to several
days for electricity to be restored to residential areas. Without electricity or a cold source, food
stored in refrigerators and freezers can become unsafe. Bacteria in food grow rapidly at
temperatures between 40 and 140 °F, and if these foods are consumed, people can become
very sick.
Do:








Keep food in covered containers.
Keep cooking and eating utensils clean.
Keep garbage in closed containers and dispose outside, burying garbage if necessary.
Keep your hands clean by washing them frequently with soap and water that has been
boiled or disinfected.
Discard any food that has come into contact with contaminated floodwater.
Discard any food that has been at room temperature for two hours or more.
Discard any food that has an unusual odor, color or texture.
Use ready-to-feed formula, if possible, for formula-fed infants. If using ready-to-feed
formula is not possible, it is best to use bottled water to prepare powdered or
concentrated formula. If bottled water is not available, use boiled water. Use treated
water to prepare formula only if you do not have bottled or boiled water. Breastfed
infants should continue breastfeeding.
Don’t:



Eat foods from cans that are swollen, dented or corroded, even though the product may
look safe to eat. Cans that swell are most likely growing bacteria inside.
Eat any food that looks or smells abnormal, even if the can looks normal.
Let garbage accumulate inside, both for fire and sanitation reasons.
Note: Thawed food usually can be eaten if it is still “refrigerator cold.” It can be re-frozen if it
still contains ice crystals. To be safe, remember, “When in doubt, throw it out.”
For more information about food safety during an emergency, visit FoodSafety.gov.
21
COOKING
Alternative cooking sources in times of emergency including candle warmers, chafing dishes,
fondue pots or a fireplace. 4
Charcoal grills and camp stoves are for outdoor use only.
Commercially canned food may be eaten out of the can without warming.
To heat food in a can:
1. Remove the label.
2. Thoroughly wash and disinfect the can. (Use a diluted solution of one part bleach to ten
parts water.)
3. Open the can before heating
MANAGING FOOD WITHOUT POWER
Be Prepared:
 Have a refrigerator thermometer.
 Know where you can get dry ice.
 Keep a few days’ worth of ready-to-eat foods on hand that do not require cooking or
cooling.
When the Power Goes Out:
 Keep the refrigerator and freezer doors closed as much as possible.
 The refrigerator will keep food cold for about 4 hours if it is unopened.
 Refrigerators should be kept at 40° F or below for proper food storage.
Once the Power is Restored:
 Check the temperature inside the refrigerator and freezer.
 If an appliance thermometer was kept in the freezer, check the temperature when the
power comes back on. If the freezer thermometer reads 40° F or below, the food is safe
and may be refrozen. If a thermometer has not been kept in the freezer, check each
package of food to determine its safety. You can't rely on appearance or odor. If the
food still contains ice crystals or is 40° F or below, it is safe to refreeze or cook.
 Refrigerated food should be safe as long as the power was out for no more than 4
hours. Keep the door closed as much as possible.
 Discard any perishable food (such as meat, poultry, fish, eggs or leftovers) that has been
above 40° F for two hours or more.
Using Dry Ice: 4
22




Under normal circumstances you should not keep dry ice in your freezer. If your freezer
is functioning properly it will cause the unit to become too cold and your freezer may
shut off. However, if you lose power for an extended period of time, dry ice is the best
ways to keep things cold.
Twenty-five pounds of dry ice will keep a 10-cubic-foot freezer below freezing for 3-4
days.
If you use dry ice to keep your food cold, make sure it does not come in direct contact
with the food.
Use care when handling dry ice, wear dry, heavy gloves to avoid injury.
BEYOND THREE DAYS OF FOOD
Canned food is effective, but it’s essential to rotate it out quickly. Beyond your canned foods
are dried and freeze-dried packaged foods. To ensure your foods are safeguarded from UV,
bugs, and rodents which may chew through the light weight packaging, consider using the five
gallon paint containers with the rubber gasket seal available at many larger hardware stores.
In addition to drinking water, ensure there is adequate water to process your dried foods.
LONG-TERM FOOD SOLUTIONS
In the event of the worst-case scenario and a long-term emergency, how long will take you to
begin growing your own produce while hunting? Six months on the outside, given the season
the emergency begins six months to crop harvest is not unrealistic.
The basis of civilization as we know it, without Zombies, revolves around fire, crops,
domestication of animals, communication, trade, and the art of war (civilization as we know it).
In the worst case scenario, we have to be prepared to grow and hunt our food. A large
collection of seeds, starter kits should be part of your prepper package.
23
SHELTER7
Choosing to take shelter is necessary in many emergencies.
Taking appropriate shelter is critical in times of disaster. Sheltering is appropriate when
conditions require that you seek protection in your home, place of employment or other
location when disaster strikes. Sheltering outside the hazard area could include staying with
friends and relatives, seeking commercial lodging or staying in a mass care facility operated by
disaster relief groups.
To effectively shelter, you must first consider the hazard and then choose a place in your home
or other building that is safe for that hazard. For example, for a tornado, a room should be
selected that is in a basement or an interior room on the lowest level away from corners,
windows, doors and outside walls.
The safest locations to seek shelter vary by hazard. Be Informed about the sheltering
suggestions for each hazard.
There may be situations, depending on your circumstances and the nature of the disaster,
when it's simply best to stay where you are and avoid any uncertainty outside by “sheltering in
place.
The length of time you are required to shelter may be short, such as during a tornado warning,
or long, such as during a winter storm or a pandemic. It is important that you stay in shelter
until local authorities say it is safe to leave. Additionally, you should take turns listening to radio
broadcasts and maintain a 24-hour safety watch.
During extended periods of sheltering, you will need to manage water and food supplies to
ensure you and your family have the required supplies and quantities.
MASS CARE SHELTER (AKA FEMA CAMPS & ZOMBIE BREEDING GROUNDS)
Even though mass care shelters often provide water, food, medicine and basic sanitary
facilities, you should plan to take your disaster supplies kit with you so you will have the
supplies you require. Mass care sheltering can involve living with many people in a confined
space, which can be difficult and unpleasant. To avoid conflicts in the stressful situation, it is
important to cooperate with shelter managers and others assisting them. Keep in mind that
7
http://www.ready.gov/shelter
24
alcoholic beverages and weapons are forbidden in emergency shelters and smoking is
restricted.
Search for open shelters by texting SHELTER and a Zip Code to 43362 (4FEMA). Ex: Shelter
01234 (standard rates apply)
Learn more by visiting: http://www.disasterassistance.gov/
SHELTER IN PLACE
Whether you are at home, work or elsewhere, there may be situations when it's simply best to
stay where you are and avoid any uncertainty outside.
There may be circumstances when staying put and creating a barrier between yourself and
potentially contaminated air outside, a process known as "sealing the room," is a matter of
survival.
Use common sense and available information to assess the situation and determine if there is
immediate danger. If you see large amounts of debris in the air, or if local authorities say the air
is badly contaminated, you may want to take this kind of action.
The process used to seal the room is considered a temporary protective measure to create a
barrier between you and potentially contaminated air outside. It is a type of sheltering in place
that requires preplanning.
• Bring your family and pets inside.
• Lock doors, close windows, air vents and fireplace dampers.
• Turn off fans, air conditioning and forced air heating systems.
• Take your emergency supply kit unless you have reason to believe it has been contaminated.
• Go into an interior room with few windows, if possible.
• Seal all windows, doors and air vents with 2-4 mil. thick plastic sheeting and duct tape.
Consider measuring and cutting the sheeting in advance to save time.
• Cut the plastic sheeting several inches wider than the openings and label each sheet.
• Duct tape plastic at corners first and then tape down all edges.
• Be prepared to improvise and use what you have on hand to seal gaps so that you create a
barrier between yourself and any contamination.
• Local authorities may not immediately be able to provide information on what is happening
and what you should do. However, you should watch TV, listen to the radio or check the
Internet often for official news and instructions as they become available.
25
IMPROVISED SHELTER
Plywood, rolls of plastic, duct tape, rebar, rope, nails, and tarps should be part of all home
emergency kits. Other items make great improvised shelters or serve to repair homes in a
disaster; one of these items are campaign signs. Campaign signs come in water-proof
corrugated plastic, in a variety of sizes, they’re lightweight, and easy to store. During campaign
season, simply go to your local Democratic Party headquarters and ask them to load you down
with signs and stands. Additionally, these signs make great free-standing targets backs.
26
SECURITY
WEAPONS
If you’re in a free state, you don’t have to worry much about what kind of firearm you can own,
the capacity of your magazine, the type of ammunition, you can simply be a responsible
freedom-loving American and own what you want. If you’re in an oppressed state, your
firearms, magazines, and ammunition will be limited by the people who want to control. You
must submit to their will, or vote them out.
Weapons should be based on what each of the family members can best handle to defend
themselves and each other. Little Johnny might not be up for the Barrett .50 cal, but perhaps a
20 gauge fits him well. The stroller may be a great place to mount a crew-served weapon. The
weapons should also be based on the mission and threat. For home defense during a Zombie
Apocalypse, the shotgun is simply ideal for dispatching brain eating Zombies. Of course, good
Preppers come ready for any scenario to include demons, werewolves, vampires, and even
politicians.
If possible, restrict the number of firearms calibers in the household. Nothing is more awkward
than wondering why you keep having ejection issues, and then your buddy points out that
you’re running 9mm in your .40cal.
Regular training with all members of the family will ensure everyone is prepared to responsibly
use a firearm when the SHTF.
AMMUNITION
Once again, your ammunition too will largely depend on your mission.
The shotgun can be loaded with a variety of munitions such as buckshot, frechette rounds (a
load of small darts, essentially small nails with their heads flattened to be fins), dragon’s breath
(it’s really hot), flares, rubber balls, and more.
Good ol’ fashioned bible for demons, silver bullets for werewolves, holy water and crosses for
vampires, and a copy of the U.S. Constitution for politicians.
ACCESSORIES
27
You may not have time to trot down to the lumber store and get materials. Plywood should be
precut to match the size of your windows and patio doors, then stored in your garage or shed.
Mount your plywood when the emergency begins to harden the structure. Assuming we’re in a
full-blown Zombie Apocalypse, you may want to add a visual level of deterrence, make the
home look like a biological hazard with FEMA markings. It’s best to leave the number of dead
as ZERO so nobody thinks they have to enter to collect bodies. The marking is usually done
with a bright color spray paint and is about 3 feet across. This is an example of how FEMA
marks:
28
Sandbags is another must. The walls of most homes won’t stop a handgun round, if you have
to lockdown, sandbags will ensure you have some hardened protection.
Fire extinguishers is another must. If you’re in lockdown during a Zombie Apocalypse, the fire
department won’t be responding to your 911 house fire call. In fact, nobody will be answering
911. You need your home for protection; be prepared to protect and preserve your home.
Rolls of Plastic and Duct Tape. What if the Zombie Apocalypse is transmitted by something
airborne? Wrap your house up.
Faraday Cage. A faraday cage is any container with a conductive metal exterior which should
be well grounded to protect sensitive electronics during an EMP.
29
EXPLOSIVES8
In any post Constitution Zombie Apocalypse scenario, you may need to move doors or
mountains, but remember the disclaimer and notice the source documentation.
Solidox Bombs
Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive chemical can be bought over the
counter: Solidox. Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks. Solidox is used in
welding applications as an oxidizing agent for the hot flame needed to melt metal. The most
active ingredient in Solidoxis potassium chlorate, a filler used in many military applications in
the WWII era. Since Solidox is literally what the name says: SOLID OXygen, you must have an
energy source for an explosion. The most common and readily available energy source is
common household sugar, or sucrose. In theory, glucose would be the purest energy source,
but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose.
Making the mixture:
1. Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by one, grind up each of the sticks
(preferably with a mortar and pestle) into the finest powder possible.
2. The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so weigh the Solidox powder, and grind
up the equivalent amount of sugar.
3. Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1 ratio. You now have an
extremely powerful substance that can be used in a variety of applications. A word of caution:
be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process. Avoid friction, heat, and flame.
Plastic Explosives from Bleach
Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound, and has been used in the past
as the main explosive filler in grenades, landmines, and mortar rounds by such countries as
France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small amount of potassium
chlorate, which can be extracted by the procedure which follows:
First off, you must obtain:
1. A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
2. A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
3. A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals)
4. Potassium chloride(sold as a salt substitute). Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the
container, and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of potassium
chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Constantly check the solution being heated
with the hydrometer, and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery hydrometer, boil
until you read a ‘FULL’ charge. Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it is
8
https://www.scribd.com/doc/387846/The-Anarchist-Cook-Book
30
between room temperature and 0 degree C. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save
them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.
Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with distilled water in the following
proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and
allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of
purification is called "fractional crystallization." These crystals should be relatively pure
potassium chlorate. Powder these to the consistency of dust, and heat gently to drive off all
moisture. Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline
(camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered
crystals from above) into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until
intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate. Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry
place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best
molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water
proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a blasting cap
of at least a 3 grade must be used. The presence of the aforementioned compounds (sulfur,
sulfides, etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and will possibly
decompose explosively while in storage. You should never store homemade explosives, and you
must use EXTREME caution at all times while performing the processes in this article. This
article was published in an open source catalog by: Information Publishing Co. Box 10042
Odessa, Texas 79762
Thermite (Thermite is Legal in the US {at least when this was written} and is used in
commercial welding)
From scratch: The first step is to get some iron-oxide (which is RUST!). Here is a good way to
make large quantities in a short time:
Get a DC converter like the one used on a train set. Cut the connector off, separate the wires,
and strip them both.
Now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium chloride (which is SALT!) added
to it. This makes the water conductive.
Now insert both wires into the mixture (I am assuming you plugged the converter in...) and let
them sit for five minutes. One of them will start bubbling more than the other. This is the
POSITIVE(+) wire. If you do not do this test right, the final product will be the
opposite(chemically) of rust, which is RUST ACID. You have no use for this here (although it IS
useful!).
Anyway, put the nail tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now put the negative wire in the
other end. Now let it sit overnight and in the morning scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat
until you got a bunch of rust on the bottom of the glass. Be generous with your rustcollection. If
you are going through the trouble of making thermite, you might as well make a lot, right?
31
Now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a cookie sheet. Dry it in the
sun for a few hours, or inside overnight. It should be an orange-brown color (although I have
seen it in many different colors! Sometimes the color gets fucked up, what can I say...but it is
still iron oxide!)
Crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast-iron pot until it is red. Now mix the pure
iron oxide with pure aluminum filings which can be bought or filed down by hand from an
aluminum tube or bar. The ratio or iron oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3 grams.
Or you can go online and order some iron oxide and aluminum powder. You should order 400
mesh or finer.
Congrats! You have just made THERMITE! Now, to light it...
Thermite requires a LOT of heat (more than a blow torch!) to ignite. However, magnesium
ribbon ignites it fine. It takes the heat from the burning magnesium to light the thermite.
To ignite thermite from a regular fuse, have several magnesium strips sticking out of the
thermite. Follow the directions for a smoke bomb. Put the smoke bomb mix on top of the
thermite and stick the fuse out of the smoke bomb mix. The smoke bomb will burn hot enough
to ignite the magnesium and the magnesium will ignite the thermite.
Touch Explosives
This is sort of a mild explosive, but it can be quite dangerous in large quantities. To make touch
explosive (such as that found in a snap-n-pop, but more powerful), use this recipe:
Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will not dissolve into the ammonia
anymore. Pour off the excess ammonia and dry out the crystals on a baking sheet.
Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch explosive. Carefully wrap a bunch in
paper (Friction will cause detonation!) and throw them around.. pretty loud, huh? They are fun
to put on someone's chair. Add a small fish sinker to them and they can be thrown a long
distance.
Paint Bombs
To make a paint bomb you simply need a metal pain can with a refastenable lid, a nice bright
color paint (green, pink, purple, or some gross color is perfect!), and a quantity of dry ice. Place
the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quickly place the top on and then get away. It
depends on the ratio of dry ice to paint to the size of the can to how full it is as to how long it
takes to erupt and the area of coverage. This is more of a harassment device.
32
Smoke Bombs
4 parts sugar to 6 parts potassium nitrate (Salt Peter). Heat this mixture over a LOW heat in a
skillet until it melts, stirring well. It will turn brown as you cook it. Pour it into a future
container such as a cardboard tube, and pour it before it solidifies, imbed a few matches into
the mixture to use as fuses, or poke a hole into the mixture with a pen for a cannon fuse or
ematch later.
CAUTION – The mixture when hot is like plastic, it will stick on your skin, burn, and pull the skin
off while coming off.
Colors:
You can add color to your smoke bombs by simply adding powdered dye to the mixture
as it’s still cooking.
Area Denial Smoke Bomb I:
Add sulfur powder to the mix as it’s cooling, and after it has been removed from the
heat source. Sulfur will give the smoke bomb a horrific stench of rotten eggs.
Area Denial Smoke Bomb II:
Add capsicum resin to the mix as it’s cooling, and after it has been removed from the
heat source.
Make your capsicum resin by taking two pounds of hot peppers, mix and match
to make your own special essence. Grind the peppers, then soak them in
rubbing alcohol for a week in a covered container. Open the container and
strain reddish brown liquid through a strainer and coffee filter. Double bag the
waste and dispose. Let the liquid set in sun and away from pets and people until
evaporated. What is left is a dark resin. The beginning of this section began with
a note urging the use of PPE such as eye protection, gloves, masks… use them.
Napalm
Pour some gas into a gas safe container.
Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't consume anymore. You should
have a sticky syrup.
Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused stuff lasts a long time!
33
Fertilizer Bomb
Ingredients:
Fertilizer (Ammonium Nitrate)
Add diesel fuel until all fertilizer is damp.
Place fertilizer in hard container making thermal expansion difficult. Ensure the container has a
hole for a blasting cap.
Tennis Ball Bombs
Ingredients:
Strike anywhere matches
A tennis ball
A nice sharp knife
Duct tapeBreak a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis ball. Stuff all of
the matchheads into the ball, until you can't fit any more in. Then tape over it with duct tape.
For added bang, add your favorite black powder to the middle of the tennis ball, and surround
it by the matchheads.
Mercury Fulminate
Mercury Fulminate is used as a primary explosive in the fabrication of detonators. It is to be
used with a booster explosive such as picric acid. Material Required:
Nitric Acid, 90% conc. (1.48 sp. gr)
Mercury
Ethyl (grain) alcohol (90%)
Filtering material [Paper Towels]
Teaspoon measure (¬, «, and 1 tsp. capacity)-aluminum, stainless steel or wax coated
Heat Source
Clean wooden stick
34
Clean water
Glass containers
Tape
Syringe Source of Nitric Acid:
Elsewhere in this Cookbook
Industrial metal processors Source of Mercury:
Thermometers
Mercury switches
Old radio tubes Procedure:
1. Dilute 5 teaspoons of nitric acid with 2- teaspoons of clean water in a glass container by
adding the acid to the water.
2. Dissolve 1/8 teaspoon of mercury in the diluted nitric acid. This will yield dark red fumes.
NOTE: It may be necessary to add water, on drop at a time, to the mercury-acid solution in
order to start a reaction.
CAUTION: Acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a large
quantity of water. Do NOT inhale fumes!
3. Warm 10 teaspoons of the alcohol in a container until the alcohol feels warm to the inside of
the wrist.
4. Pour the metal-acid solution into the warm alcohol. Reaction should start in less than 5
minutes. Dense white fumes will be given off during the reaction. As time lapses, the fumes will
become less dense. Allow 10 to 15 minutes to complete reaction. Fulminate will settle to the
bottom.
CAUTION: This reaction generates large quantities of toxic, flammable fumes. The process
MUST be conducted outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, away from sparks or open flames. DO
NOT inhale fumes!
5. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a container. Crystals may stick to the side of
the container. If so, tilt and squirt water down the sides of the container until all of the material
collects on the filter paper.
6. Wash the crystals with 6 teaspoons of ethyl alcohol.
7. Allow these mercury fulminate crystals to air dry.
35
CAUTION: Handle dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it roughly! Keep away
from sparks or open flames. Store in a cool, dry place.
Improvised Black Powder
Black powder can be prepared in a simple, safe manner. It may be used as blasting or gun
powder. Materials:
Potassium Nitrate, granulated, 3 cups (3/4 liter)
Wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups
Sulfur, powdered, « cup
Alcohol, 5 pints (2 liters) (whiskey, rubbing alcohol, etc.)
Water, 3 cups (3/4 liter)
Heat source
2 buckets - each 2 gallon (7 liters) capacity, at least one of which is heat resistant (metal,
ceramic, etc.)
Flat window screening, at least 1 foot (30 cm) square
Large wooden stick
Cloth, at least 2 feet (60 cm) square Procedure:
1. Place alcohol in one of the buckets.
2. Place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat resistant bucket. Add 1 cup water
and mix thoroughly with wooden stick until all ingredients are dissolved.
3. Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture. Place bucket on heat source and stir until small
bubbles begin to form.
CAUTION: DO NOT boil mixture. Be sure ALL mixture stays wet. If any is dry, as on sides of pan,
it may ignite!
4. Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol while stirring vigorously.
5. Let alcohol mixture stand about 5 minutes. Strain mixture through cloth to obtain black
powder. Discard liquid. Wrap cloth around black powder and squeeze to remove all excess
liquid.
6. Place screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of damp powder on screen and
granulate by rubbing solid through screen. NOTE: If granulated particles appear to stick
together and change shape, recombine entire batch of powder and repeat steps 5 & 6.
36
7. Spread granulated black powder on flat, dry surface so that layer about « inch (1 cm) is
formed. Allow to dry. Use radiator, or direct sunlight. This should be dried as soon as possible,
preferably in an hour. The longer the drying period, the less effective the blackpowder.
CAUTION: Remove from heat AS SOON AS granules are dry. Black powder is now ready to use.
Nitric Acid
Nitric Acid is used in the preparation of many explosives, incendiary mixtures, and acid delay
timers. It may be prepared by distilling a mixture of potassium nitrate and concentrated sulfuric
acid. Material Required:
Potassium Nitrate (2 parts by volume)
CONCENTRATED sulfuric acid (1 part by volume)
2 bottles or ceramic jugs (narrow necks are preferable)
Pot or frying pan
Heat source (wood, charcoal, or coal)
Tape (paper, electrical, masking, but NOT cellophane!)
Paper or rags IMPORTANT: If sulfuric acid is obtained from a motor vehicle battery, concentrate
it by boiling it UNTIL white fumes appear. DO NOT INHALE FUMES. NOTE: The amount of nitric
acid produced is the same as the amount of potassium nitrate. Thus, for two tablespoons of
nitric acid, use 2 tablespoons of potassium nitrate and 1 tablespoonful of concentrated sulfuric
acid.
Drug stores
Source of CONCENTRATED sulfuric acid:
Motor vehicle batteries
Industrial plants Procedure:
1.Place dry potassium nitrate in bottle or jug. Add sulfuric acid. Do not fill the bottle more than
¬ full. Mix until paste is formed.
CAUTION: DO NOT INHALE FUMES!
2. Wrap paper or rags around necks of two bottles. securely tape necks of two bottles together.
Be sure that bottles are flush against each other and that there are no air spaces.
37
3. Support bottles on rocks or cans so that empty bottle is SLIGHTLY lower than bottle
containing paste so that nitric acid that is formed in receiving bottle will not run into other
bottle.
4 .Build fire in pot or frying pan.
5. Gently heat bottle containing mixture by gently moving fire in and out. As red fumes begin to
appear periodically pour cool water over empty receiving bottle. Nitric acid will begin to form in
receiving bottle.
CAUTION: Do not overheat or wet bottle containing mixture or it may shatter. As an added
precaution, place bottle to be heated in heat resistant container filled with sand or gravel. Heat
this outer container to produce nitric acid.
6. Continue the above process until no more red fumes are formed. If the nitric acid formed in
the receiving bottle is not clear (cloudy) pour it into cleaned bottle and repeat steps 2-6.
CAUTION: Nitric acid should be kept away from all combustibles and should be kept in a SEALED
CERAMIC OR GLASS container. DO NOT inhale fumes!
Dust Bomb Instructions
An initiator which will initiate common material to produce dust explosions can be rapidly and
easily constructed. This type of charge is ideal for the destruction of enclosed areas such as
rooms or buildings. Material Required:
A flat can, 3 in. (8 cm) in diameter and 1 in. (3-3/4 cm) high. A 6-ounce tuna can serves the
purpose quite well.
Blasting cap
Explosive
Aluminum (may be wire, cut sheet, flattened can, or powder)
Large nail, (10 cm) long
Wooden rod (6 mm) diameter
Flour, gasoline, and powder or chipped aluminum NOTE: Plastic explosive produce better
explosions than cast explosives. Procedure:
1. Using the nail, press a hole through the side of the tuna can 3/8 inch to « inch (1 to 1.5 cm)
from the bottom. Using a rotating and lever action, enlarge the hole until it will accommodate
the blasting cap.
2. Place the wooden rod in the hole and position the end of the rod at the center of the can.
38
3. Press explosive into the can, being sure to surround the rod, until it is 3/4 inch (2 cm) from
the top of the can. Carefully remove the woodenrod.
4. Place the aluminum metal on top of the explosive.
5. Just before use, insert the blasting cap into the cavity made by the rod. The initiator is now
ready to use. NOTE: If it is desired to carry the initiator some distance, cardboard maybe
pressed on top of the aluminum to insure against loss of material. How to Use: This particular
unit works quite well to initiate charges of five pounds of flour, (1-2/3 liters) of gasoline, or two
pounds of flake painters aluminum. The solid materials may merely be contained in sacks or
cardboard cartons. The gasoline may be placed in plastic coated paper milk cartons, as well as
plastic or glass bottles. The charges are placed directly on top of the initiator and the blasting
cap is actuated electrically or by a fuse depending on the type of cap employed.
Carbon-Tet Explosive
A moist explosive mixture can be made from fine aluminum powder combined with carbon
tetrachloride or tetrachloroethylene. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap.
Material Required:
Fine aluminum bronzing powder
Carbon Tetrachloride or Tetrachloroethylene
Stirring rod (wood)
Mixing container (bowl, bucket, etc.)
Measuring container (cup, tablespoon, etc.)
Storage container (jar, can, etc.)
Blasting cap
Pipe, can or jar Source of Carbon Tetrachloride:
Paint store
Pharmacy
Fire extinguisher fluid Source of Tetrachloroethylene:
Dry cleaners
Pharmacy Procedure:
39
1. Measure out two parts aluminum powder to one part carbon tetrachloride or
tetrachlorethylene liquid into mixing container, adding liquid to powder while stirring with the
wooden rod.
2. Stir until the mixture becomes the consistency of honey syrup.
CAUTION: Fumes from the liquid are dangerous and should not be inhaled.
3. Store explosive in a jar or similar water proof container until ready to use. The liquid in the
mixture evaporates quickly when not confined. NOTE: Mixture will detonate in this manner for
a period of 72 hours.
How to Use:
1. Pour this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap threaded on one end. If a
pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin can orglass jar.
2. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the explosive mix. NOTE: Confining the open
end of the container will add to the effectiveness of the explosive.
Picric Acid from Aspirin
Picric Acid can be used as a booster explosive in detonators, a high explosive charge, or as an
intermediate to preparing lead picric. Material Required:
Aspirin tablets (5 grains per tablet)
Alcohol, 95% pure
Sulfuric acid, concentrated, (if battery acid, boil until white fumes disappear)
Potassium Nitrate
Water
Paper towels
Canning jar, 1 pint
Rod (glass or wood)
Glass containers
Ceramic or glass dish
Cup
40
Teaspoon
Tablespoon
Pan
Heat source
Tape Procedure:
1. Crush 20 aspirin tablets in a glass container. Add 1 teaspoon of water and work into a paste.
2. Add approximately 1/3 to cup of alcohol (100 milliliters) to the aspirin paste; stir while
pouring.
3. Filter the alcohol-aspirin solution through a paper towel into another glass container. Discard
the solid left in the paper towel.
4. Pour the filtered solution into a glass or ceramic dish.
5. Evaporate the alcohol and water from the solution by placing the dish into a pan of hot
water. White powder will remain in the dish after evaporation.
NOTE: The water in the pan should be at hot bath temperature, not boiling, approx 160øF to
180øF. It should not burn the hands.
6. Pour 1/3 cup (80 milliliters) of concentrated sulfuric acid into a canning jar. Add the white
powder to the sulfuric acid.
7. Heat canning jar of sulfuric acid in a pan of simmering hot water bath for 15 minutes; then
remove jar from the bath. Solution will turn to a yellow-orange color.
8. Add 3 level teaspoons (15 grams) of potassium nitrate in three portions to the yellow-orange
solution; stir vigorously during additions. Solution will turn red, then back to a yellow-orange
color.
9. Allow the solution to cool to ambient room temperature while stirring occasionally.
10. Slowly pour the solution, while stirring, into 1-¬ cup (300 milliliters) of cold water and allow
to cool.
11. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a glass container. Light yellow particles will
collect on the paper towel.
12. Wash the light yellow particles with 2 tablespoons (25 milliliters) of water. Discard the
waste liquid in the container.
13. Place articles in ceramic dish and set in a hot water bath, as in step 5, for 2 hours.
Picric Acid without Aspirin
MATERIALS:
Phenol (9g)
Concentrated Sulfuric Acid (12mL)
41
Concentrated Nitric Acid (38 mL)
Distilled Water EQUIPMENT:
500 mL Flask
Adjustable Heat Source
1000 mL Beaker -or- other container suitable for boiling in
Filter Paper and Funnel
Glass Stirring Rod
1. Place 9 grams of phenol into the 500 mL flask, and carefully add 12 mL of concentrated
sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
2. Put 400 mL of tap water into the 1000 mL beaker or boiling container and bring the water to
a gentle boil.
3. After warming the 500 mL flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling water, and
continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty minutes. After thirty minutes,
take the flask out, and allow it to cool for about five minutes.
4. Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to cool, use it to
create an ice bath, similar to the one used in steps 3-4. Place the 500 mL flask with the mixed
acid an phenol in the ice bath. Add 38 mL of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring
the mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When the mixture
stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath.
5. Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more tap water. Place the
flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and heat it in the boiling water for 1 to 2
hours.
6. Add 100 mL of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice bath until it is cold.
7. Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution through the filter
paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of it in a safe place, since it is corrosive.
8. Wash out the 500 mL flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the filter paper in the
flask. Add 300 mL of water, and shake vigorously.
9. Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.
1 0. Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will react with metal
containers to produce picrates that could explode spontaneously.
Making Potassium Nitrate
Potassium Nitrate is an ingredient in making fuses, among other things. Here is how you make
it: Materials needed:
42
3 gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material cup of wood ashes
Bucket or other similar container about 4-5 gallons in volume
2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each a bit bigger than the bottom of the bucket
Shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as the bucket
Shallow, heat resistant container
2 gallons of water
Something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket
1 gallon of any type of alcohol
A heat source
Paper & tape Procedure:
1. Punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket, so that the metal is "puckered" outward
from the bottom.
2. Spread cloth over the holes from the bottom.
3. Place wood ashes on the cloth. Spread it out so that it covers the entire cloth and has about
the same thickness.
4. Place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes.
5. Place the dirt or other material in the bucket.
6. Place the bucket over the shallow container. NOTE: It may need support on the bottom so
that the holes on the bottom are not blocked.
7. Boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT pour it all at once, as this will clog
the filter on the bottom.
8. Allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on the bottom.
9. Be sure that the water goes through ALL of the earth!
10. Allow water in dish to cool for an hour or so.
11. Carefully drain the liquid in the dish away, and discard the sludge in the bottom.
12. Boil this liquid over a fire for at least two hours. Small grains of salt will form - scoop these
out with the paper as they form.
13. When the liquid has boiled down to its original volume let it sit.
14. After hour, add equal volume of the alcohol; when this mixture is poured through paper,
small white crystals appear. This is the potassiumnitrate.
Purification:
1. Redissolve crystals in small amount of boiling water.
43
2. Remove any crystals that appear.
3. Pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated solution to dryness.
4. Spread out crystals and allow to dry.
44
FUSES9
We’ll cover four types of fuses, being burn fuses, eMatches, model rocket engine igniter, and
unwater igniter.
Burn Fuses
For the most part, you can buy fuses (cannon fuse) online at any quality fireworks dealer.
However, it is important to know how to make fuses from scratch too:
Both fuses presented here are fairly simple to make, and are fairly reliable.
SLOW BURNING FUSE - 2 inches per minute TEST burn your fuses so you know how long/fast
they really burn in real life before you light it.
Materials needed:
Cotton string or 3 shoelaces
Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate
Granulated sugar Procedure:
1. Wash the cotton string or shoelaces in HOT soapy water, then rinse with fresh water
2. Mix the following together in a glass bowl:
1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
1 part granulated sugar
2 parts hot water
3. Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution
4. Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry
5. Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!!
FAST BURNING FUSE - 40 inches per minute
Materials needed:
Soft cotton string
9
https://www.scribd.com/doc/387846/The-Anarchist-Cook-Book
45
Fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!)
Shallow dish or pan Procedure:
1. Moisten powder to form a paste.
2. Twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together.
3. Rub paste into string and allow to dry.
eMatches
eMatches are electric fuses typically used for fireworks. They can be purchased online or at any
quality fireworks dealer. These typically require 9 volts to ignite.
Model Rocket Igniter
Model Rocket Igniters can be found at almost all hobby stores, or you can make them. Get
some fine gauge nichrome wire, cut it about 1.5” long, bend it around a paperclip so that it is U
shaped, tape the two leads with masking tape so they don’t touch, and dip the end into paint as
an insulator. Nichrome is what’s used in ovens and blow driers, it heats up but doesn’t break.
Expect to use 12 volts on this igniter.
Under water igniters
Materials needed:
Pack of 10 silicon diodes.
Pack of matches
candle Procedure:
1. Light the candle and allow a pool of molten wax to form in the top.
2. Take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode against the head. Bend the diode
pins around the matchhead so that one wrapsin an upward direction and then sticks out to the
side. Do the same with the other wire, but in a downward direction. The diodes should now be
hugging the matchhead, but its wires MUST NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER!
3. Dip the matchhead in wax to give it a water-proof coat. These work underwater
4. Repeat to make as many as you want. How to use them: When these little dudes are hooked
across a 6v battery, the diode reaches what is called breakdown voltage. When most electrical
components reach this voltage, they usually produce great amounts of heat and light, while
quickly melting into a little blob. This heat is enough to ignite a matchhead. These are
recommended for use underwater, where most other igniters refuse to work.
Making a blasting cap
46
Take a spent rifle shell, a .223 works great.
Fill with gun powder or more blasting power, gun powder with Pitric Acid. Whether using a
burn fuse, an eMatch, or a rocket igniter, put some duct tape around the fuse/eMatch/igniter
where it will be in contact with the opening of the shell casing. That duct tape will provide an
insulator to prevent grounding on the shell, and padding. The padding is needed to protect the
fuse material. Take a pair of plyers and crimp opening of the shell casing closed snuggly around
your fuse but not through the padding. Test them before you need them.
47
FIELD SANITATION
The military began to realize the importance of Field Sanitation when commanders begun to
lose 90% of their unit strength to disease. Controlling disease carrying vectors, proper
placement of latrines, proper hand washing, and proper waste disposal will all mitigate Field
Sanitation risks. The Field Sanitation section is largely derived from Army Field Manual 21-10.
ARTHROPODS AND OTHER ANIMALS OF MEDICAL IMPORTANCE10
Poor sanitation and improper waste disposal under wartime conditions greatly increase the
disease vector potential of such common pests as filth flies and rodents.
OVERVIEW:
Poor sanitation and improper waste disposal under wartime conditions greatly increase the
disease vector potential of such common pests as filth flies and rodents. Even in mobile field
situations these "camp followers" have historically amplified sanitation problems, often
resulting in epidemics of diarrheal diseases that have caused many casualties. This threat is
even greater in urban areas converted to temporary or semipermanent military use. A
dangerous temptation in field training or in deployment operations is to ignore the field
sanitation standards. Some people think, "The rules don't apply here." Yielding to that
temptation can cost your health and the health of those around you. There is no excuse for
forgetting to bring protective equipment or failing to use it. Be sure to follow all safety
precautions on all labels of the pesticides that you use. They are there for a reason - to protect
your health.
USE THE DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE INSECT/ARTHROPOD REPELLENTS
The concurrent use of a skin insect repellent (N, N-diethyl-M-toluamide [DEET], NSN 6840-01284-3982) and a clothing insect repellent (permethrin [NSN 6840-01-278-1336 and 6840-01345-0237]) is necessary to obtain maximum protection against insects/arthropods.
APPLY N, N-DIETHYL-M-TOLUAMIDE



Apply DEET insect repellent to all exposed skin.
Follow label directions.
Apply a light, even coating to exposed skin, not under clothing.
10
http://www.armystudyguide.com/content/army_board_study_guide_topics/field_sanitation/arthropods-and-otheranimals.shtml
48



DO NOT apply to the eyes and lips, or to damaged skin.
One application may last 8 to 12 hours; if you receive bites, reapply a light uniform
coating of repellent.
Application of DEET can be safely used with camouflage face paint. Apply a thin layer of
DEET first, then apply face paint.
NOTE: Reapplication of DEET may be necessary (check container label) due to heavy sweating,
or after river-crossing operations, exposure to rain, or in locations where arthropod density is
very high.
APPLY PERMETHRIN CLOTHING REPELLENTS TO FIELD UNIFORMS/ SLEEPING EQUIPMENT




Permethrin is the most effective clothing repellent available.
Treat military field uniforms, including Nomex/Kevlar uniforms, tent liners, ground
cloths, and bed nets with permethrin. This should be done before wearing in field
training or military operations. Follow label instructions when applying to clothing.
Permethrin will remain in the material after repeated washings.
Treated uniforms can be safely worn in the rain or when crossing rivers or streams.
NOTE Permethrin does not rinse out in cold water (or rain or streams).






DO NOT apply directly to skin, to underwear, or to cap.
DO NOT wear treated uniforms unless they are first thoroughly dried after
treating.
Apply permethrin outdoors or in well-ventilated areas only.
Wear uniform as your commander directs.
Wear a loose fitting uniform, not tightly tailored, to prevent arthropods from biting
through the fabric; repair tears/holes.
When the arthropod threat is high:






Blouse pants in boots and completely lace boots.
Tuck undershirt in at waist.
Wear sleeves down.
Button blouse/shirt at the neck and wrist.
Do not use aftershave lotion, cologne, or perfumed deodorants or soaps in the
field; they attract arthropods.
Wear headgear (cap, helmet, arthropod head net) when necessary to protect
your head.
KEEP YOUR BODY AND UNIFORM CLEAN
49


Bathe every day if possible, or at least once a week. Good personal hygiene practices
reduce infestation of insects such as body lice and mites.
Wash your uniform frequently (a minimum of every 7 days) to remove arthropods and
their eggs which may be attached to the uniform. If the situation permits, use the
quartermaster laundry; otherwise, use a stream, lake, or washbasin. Air-dry uniforms,
especially underwear and socks, if possible.
FOLLOW MEDICAL ADVICE


Take medications that help prevent diseases (such as anti-malaria pills) when directed
by your commander.
Use medications, such as cream/shampoo, when prescribed by medical personnel for
treatment of lice, chiggers, poison ivy, and so forth.
PROTECT YOURSELF AT NIGHT






Ensure your bed net is in good repair.
Use your bed net when sleeping.
Tuck net under sleeping pad or sleeping bag so there are no openings.
Follow the label directions and precautions when using DOD-approved insect spray (for
example, Insecticide, Aerosol d-PHENOTHRIN, 2%) if insects are present inside the bed
net (and inside closed tent). Allow vapors to disperse for 10 minutes before entering the
enclosure.
Treat bed net with permethrin for added protection.
Repair holes in your bed net. Generously apply DEET skin repellent to those areas likely
to touch the insect net during sleep (knees, hands, elbows, and feet) to prevent bites
through holes in the fabric.
PROTECT YOURSELF FROM OTHER MEDICALLY IMPORTANT ARTHROPODS AND ANIMALS
Spiders, Scorpions, and Centipedes:






Remove spiders from tents or buildings.
Shake out and inspect clothing, shoes, and bedding before use.
Eliminate collections of papers, unused boxes, scrap lumber, and metal.
Thoroughly clean beneath and behind large items; spiders and scorpions may be resting
in these areas.
Check field latrines before use; run a small stick under the rim of the latrine hole to
dislodge any spiders or scorpions there. Spiders and scorpions may rest under toilet seat
or inside latrine box.
Wear gloves when handling paper, cloth, lumber, or other items that have been stored
for long periods.
50




Check around rocks and logs before resting against them.
Use a long-handled tool or stick to turn over debris before removing it.
Remove accumulations of boards, rocks, and other debris to eliminate the resting/
hiding areas of spiders and scorpions.
Wear leather gloves to remove rocks, lumber, and such from the ground.
NOTE: In many locations worldwide, centipedes are more of a problem than scorpions, but the
PMM are the same for both pests.
Snakes:










Do not handle, play with, or disturb snakes or other wildlife.
Avoid swimming in areas where snakes abound.
Keep hands off rock ledges where snakes may be hiding or sunning.
Look over the area before sitting down, especially if in deep grass or among rocks.
If snakes are known to inhabit the area, sleep off the ground, if possible.
If military situation permits, avoid walking about an area during the period from dusk to
complete daylight, as many snakes are active during this period.
Avoid camping near piles of brush, rocks, or other debris.
Never step over large rocks or logs without first checking to see what is on the other
side.
Turn rocks and logs toward you when they have to be removed so you will be shielded
should snakes be beneath them.
Handle freshly killed snakes only with a long-handled tool or stick; snakes can inflict fatal
bites by reflex action after their death.
NOTE: If bitten, try to kill the snake and bring its head with you to the medical treatment
facility. If you cannot bring the snake's head with you, get an accurate description of the snake
to assist medical personnel in treating you. DO NOT panic!
DOMESTIC AND WILD ANIMALS OR BIRDS



Do not handle or approach so-called "pets."
Exclude such animals from your work and living areas, unless cleared by veterinary
personnel.
Do not collect or support (feed or shelter) stray or domestic animals/birds in the unit
area, unless cleared by veterinary personnel.
51
FLUID REPLACEMENT GUIDELINES FOR WARM WEATHER TRAINING11
Applies to Average Acclimated Service Member Wearing Hot Weather Uniform
HEAT
CATEGORY
WBGT
INDEX
DEGREES F
EASY WORK
MODERATE WORK
HARD WORK
WORK/
REST
MIN
WATER
INTAKE
QT/HR
WORK/
REST
MIN
WATER
INTAKE
QT/HR
WORK/
REST
MIN
WATER
INTAKE
QT/HR
1
78-81.9
NL
1/2
NL
3/4
40/20
3/4
2
(GREEN)
82-84.9
NL
1/2
50/10
3/4
30/30
1
3
(YELLOW)
85-87.9
NL
3/4
40/20
3/4
30/30
1
4
(RED)
88-89.9
NL
3/4
30/30
3/4
20/40
1
5
(BLACK)
> 90
50/10
1
20/40
1
10/50
1







The work/rest times and fluid replacement volumes will sustain performance and hydration for at least 4 hours of work in the specified heat
category. Individual water needs will vary 1/4 quart/hour.
NL= no limit to work time per hour.
Rest means minimal physical activity (sitting or standing) accomplished in shade, if possible.
CAUTION: Hourly fluid intake should not exceed 11/4 quarts.
Daily fluid intake should not exceed 12 liters.
Wearing body armor adds 5° F to WBGT Index.
Wearing all MOPP over garments adds 10° F to WBGT Index.
EASY WORK





MODERATE WORK
Weapon Maintenance

Walking hard surface at 2.5
mph, with a 30 pound load

Guard Duty
Marksmanshp training
Drill and cermony




HARD WORK
Walking loose sand at 2.5
mph, no load
mph with a 40 pound load



Calisthenics
mph with a 40 pound load
Walking on loose sand at 2.5
mph with load
Field assaults
Patrolling
Individual movement
techniques such as low
crawl, high crawl
Defensive position
construction
Source: FM 21-10 Field Sanitation
11
http://www.armystudyguide.com/content/army_board_study_guide_topics/field_sanitation/fluid-replacementguidelines.shtml
52
FIELD FACILITIES FOR HUMAN WASTE DISPOSAL12
Human waste disposal becomes a problem for both the individual and the unit in the field.
Local, state, federal, and host-nation regulations or laws may prohibit burning or burial of
waste. Chemical latrines are the preferred human waste disposal devices for use during field
exercises or missions. When chemical latrines are not available, individuals and units must
use improvised devices as discussed in paragraph c, below. During short halts when troops
are on a march, each soldier uses a brief relief bag or a cat-hole latrine. The cat-hole latrine is
dug approximately 1-foot (30-centimeters) deep and is completely covered and packed down
after use. In temporary bivouac areas (1 to 3 days), the straddle trench latrine is used unless
more permanent facilities are provided for the unit. When setting up a temporary camp, a
deep pit latrine and urine soakage pits are usually constructed. Alternate devices, which may
be used to dispose of human waste in the field, are the burn-out, mound, bored-hole, or pail
latrines (see FM 21-10). The burn-out latrine is the preferred method for improvised devices.
If possible, urinals should be provided in these facilities to prevent soiling the toilet seats. The
numbers of latrines are based on one commode or urinal per 25 male soldiers and one
commode per 17 female soldiers.
Latrines are so constructed to prevent the contamination of food and water. They are
located at least 100 yards (90 meters) downwind (prevailing wind) and down gradient
from the unit food service facility and at least 100 feet (30 meters) from any unit
ground water source. They should never be placed above gradient of the unit food
service facility. For further protection, latrines are not dug to the ground water level
or in places where pit contents may drain into the water source. Usually they are built
at least 30 yards (30 meters) from the border of the unit area but within a reasonable
distance for easy access. A drainage ditch is dug around the edges of the latrine
enclosure to keep out rainwater and other surface water. A handwashing device is
installed outside each latrine enclosure; these devices should be easy to operate and
kept full of water. Each individual must wash his hands after he uses the latrine.
2. When a latrine is filled to within 1 foot (30 centimeters) of the ground surface or when
it is to be abandoned, it is closed in the following manner. The pit is filled to the
ground surface in 3-inch (8-centimeter) layers; each layer is compacted. This is to
prevent fly pupae from hatching and gaining access to the open air. Dirt is then
compacted over the pit to form a mound at least 1-foot (30-centimeters) high. A sign
is posted with the date and the words closed latrine, if the tactical situation permits.
1.
Chemical Latrines:
12
http://www.armystudyguide.com/content/army_board_study_guide_topics/field_sanitation/field-facilities-forhuma.shtml
53
Chemical latrines are used in the field when federal, state, or local laws prohibit the
use of other field latrines. These toilets are self-contained in that they have a holding
tank with chemical additives to aid in decomposition of the waste and for odor
control. The number of such facilities required is established by the surgeon or other
medical authority in the AO.
2. The facility must be cleaned daily, and the contents pumped out for disposal in a
conventional sanitary waste water system. The frequency of emptying is determined
by the demand for use of the device
1.
Improvised Devices: When chemical latrines are not available, the following improvised
devices can be used.
1.
Burn-out Latrine. The burn-out latrine may be provided when the soil is hard, rocky,
or frozen, making it difficult to dig a deep pit latrine. It is particularly suitable in areas
with high water tables because digging a deep pit is impossible. The burn-out latrine is
not used when regulations prohibit open fires or air pollution. Personnel should
urinate in a urine disposal facility rather than the burn-out latrine, as more fuel is
required to burn out the liquid.
a. To construct a burn-out latrine, an oil drum is cut in half, and handles are
welded to the sides of the half drum for easy carrying. A wooden seat with a
fly-proof, self-closing lid is placed on top of the drum.
b. The latrine is burned out daily by adding sufficient fuel to incinerate the fecal
matter. A mixture of 1 quart (1 liter) of gasoline to 4 quarts (4 liters) of diesel
oil is effective, but must be used with caution. If possible, have two sets of
drums, one set for use while the other set is being burned clean. If the
contents are not rendered dry and odorless by one burning, they should be
burned again. Any remaining ash should be buried.
DANGER Highly volatile fuel such as JP4 (jet propulsion fuel, grade 4) should
not be used because of its explosive nature.
Straddle Trench Latrine. The trench is dug 1-foot (30-centimeters) wide, 21/2-feet
(75-centimeters) deep, and 4-feet (120-centimeters) long. Two feet (60 centimeters)
of length are allowed per person. These trenches, which are constructed parallel to
one another, are spaced at least 2-feet (60-centimeters) apart. Since there are no
seats on this type of latrine, boards may be placed along both sides of the trench to
provide sure footing. As the earth is removed, it is piled at one end of the trench, and
a shovel or paddle is provided so that each soldier can promptly cover his excreta.
Toilet paper is placed on suitable holders and protected from bad weather by a tin can
or other covering. The straddle trench latrine is closed, using the same method
described in a(2) above.
3. Deep Pit Latrine. The deep pit is used with the standard latrine box which is issued to
2.
54
or built by the unit. The two-seat box is 4-feet (120-centimeters) long, 21/2-feet (75centimeters) wide at the base, and 18-inches (45-centimeters) high. A four-seat box 8feet (240-centimeters) long, 21/2-feet (75-centimeters) wide at the base, and 18inches (45-centimeters) high may be built by the unit using scrap lumber or other
material.
a. The pit is dug 2-feet (60-centimeters) wide and either 31/2- or 71/2-feet (105or 225-centimeters) long, depending upon the size of the latrine box. This
allows 3 inches (8 centimeters) of earth on each side of the pit to support the
latrine box. The depth of the pit depends on the estimated length of time the
latrine will be used. As a guide, a depth of 1 foot (30 centimeters) is allowed
for each week of estimated use, plus 1 foot (30 centimeters) of depth for dirt
cover. Generally, it is not desirable to dig the pit more than 6-feet (2-meters)
deep because of the danger of the walls caving in. Rocks or high ground water
levels may also limit the depth of the pit. In some soils, supports of planking or
other material may be necessary to prevent the walls from caving in.
b. To prevent fly breeding and to reduce odors, the latrine box must be kept
clean, the lids closed, and all cracks sealed. If a fly problem exists, they may be
controlled by the application of a residual pesticide. Control effects should be
based upon fly surveys and pesticides applied in accordance with label
directions. Pit contents should not be sprayed routinely since flies can develop
resistance to pesticides if used over and over. The latrine boxes and seats are
scrubbed daily with soap and water. Using lime in the pit or burning out the pit
contents is not effective for fly or odor control; therefore, these methods are
not recommended. The deep pit latrine is closed as described in a(2) above.
4. Mound Latrine.
a. This latrine may be used when a high ground water level or a rock formation
near the ground surface prevents digging a deep pit. A dirt mound makes it
possible to build a deep pit and still not extend it into the ground water or
rock.
b. A mound of earth with a top at least 6-feet (2-meters) wide and 12-feet (4meters) long is formed so that a four-seat latrine box may be placed on top of
it. It is made high enough to meet the pits requirement for depth, allowing 1foot (30-centimeters) from the base of the pit to the level of the ground water
or rock level. The mound is formed in approximately 1 foot (30 centimeters)
layers. The surface of each layer is compacted before adding the next layer.
When the desired height is reached, the pit is then dug in the mound. Wood or
other bracing may be needed to prevent the pit walls from caving in. An
alternate method is to construct a latrine pit on top of the ground, using
lumber, logs, corrugated sheet metal, or whatever other material is available;
to pile dirt around it and up to the brim, thus creating the mound around the
latrine pit. The exact size of the mound base depends upon the type of soil; it
should be made large to avoid a steep slope. It may be necessary to provide
55
steps up the slope. The mound latrine is closed as described in a(2) above.
5. Pail Latrine. A pail latrine may be built when conditions (populated areas, rocky soil,
and marshes) are such that a latrine of another type cannot be constructed. A fourseat latrine box may be converted for use as a pail latrine by placing a hinged door on
the rear of the box, adding a floor, and placing a pail under each seat. If the box is
located in a building, it should, if possible, be fitted into an opening made in the outer
wall so that the rear door of the box can be opened from outside the building. The
seats and rear door should be self-closing, and the entire box should be made
flyproof. The floor of the box should be made of an impervious material (concrete, if
possible) and should slope enough toward the rear to facilitate rapid water drainage
used in cleaning the box. A urinal may also be installed in the latrine enclosure with a
drainpipe leading to a pail outside. This pail should also be enclosed in a flyproof box.
The waste in pails may be disposed of by burning or by hauling to a suitable area and
burying. Emptying and hauling containers of waste must be closely supervised to
prevent careless spillage. The use of plastic bag liners for pails reduces the risk of
accidental spillage. The filled bags are tied at the top; they then are disposed of by
burning or burial.
6. Urine Disposal Facilities. Urine disposal facilities should be provided for the males in
the command. Urine should be drained from the urinals into a soakage pit, into a
standard deep pit latrine if the urinals are constructed in conjunction with the latrine,
or into the chemical latrine. The urine may be drained into a pit latrine through a pipe,
hose, or trough. If a soakage pit is used, it should be dug 4-feet (1.2-meters) square
and 4-feet (1.2-meters) deep and filled with rocks, flattened tin cans, bricks, broken
bottles, or similar nonporous rubble.
a. Urinal pipes. Urinal pipes should be at least 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) in
diameter and approximately 39-inches (1-meter) long and placed at each
corner of the soakage pit and, if needed, on the sides halfway between the
corners. The pipes are inserted at least 8-inches (20-centimeters) below the
surface of the pit with the remaining 28 inches (80 centimeters) slanted
outward above the surface. A funnel of tar paper, sheet metal, or similar
material is placed in the top of each pipe and covered with a screen.
b. Urinal trough. A urinal trough, about 10-feet (3.3-meters) long, is provided
when material for its construction is more readily available than pipes. The
trough is made of sheet metal or wood with either V- or U-shaped ends. If the
trough is made of wood, it is lined with tar paper or metal. The legs supporting
the trough are cut slightly shorter on one end where a pipe carries the urine
into the soakage pit or latrine pit. A urinal trough about 12-inches (30centimeters) long is attached to the inside wall of the chemical latrine. A pipe
is connected to the trough to drain urine into the latrine holding tank.
c. Urine soakage pit. For the urine soakage pit to function properly, soldiers must
not urinate on the surface of the pit. The funnels or trough must be cleaned
daily with soap and water and the funnels replaced as necessary. Oil and
56
d.
grease must never be poured into the pit, as they will clog it. When a urine
soakage pit is to be abandoned or it becomes clogged, it is sprayed with a
residual insecticide and mounded over with a 2-foot (60-centimeter) covering
of compacted earth.
Urinoil. In areas where the ground water level is more than 3-feet (1-meter)
below the surface, the urinoil is an acceptable substitute for other types of
urine disposal facilities. The urinoil is a 55-gallon drum designed to receive and
trap urine and to dispose of it into a soakage pit. Urine voided through the
screen onto the surface of the oil immediately sinks through the oil to the
bottom of the drum. As urine is added, the level rises within the 3-inch
diameter pipe and overflows into the 11/2-inch diameter pipe through the
notches cut in the top of this pipe. The oil acts as an effective seal against
odors and against fly entrance. The screen on top of the oil is lifted by
supporting hooks and cleaned of debris as necessary.
ARTHROPODBORNE DISEASES
Historically, arthropodborne diseases have caused more casualties than combat
injuries. Arthropodborne diseases alone were responsible for the loss of 15,576,000
man-days among US Armed Forces during World War II.
1. Today, harmful arthropods represent one of the greatest environmental hazard
to soldiers in the field. The chain of infection for arthropodborne diseases
involves a pathogenic organism in an infected person or animal (the reservoir),
an arthropod to transmit the disease (vector), and a susceptible person (the
host).
2. The significance of vector efficiency in disease transmission from reservoir to
host is related to many factors. Some of the factors are species-related such as
vector reproductive capacity, physiology, morphology, and genetics.
3. Other factors that affect the vector’s ability to transmit disease are physical
and related to environmental conditions, such as temperature, moisture,
rainfall, pH, weather, geographical and topographical location, photoperiod,
and wind.
4. Soldiers in a field environment must break the chain of infection for
arthropodborne disease or arthropod injury by limiting arthropod pest
exposures.
b. Arthropods (insects, ticks, mites, spiders, scorpions, and the like) make up over 75
percent of all animal species. Less than 1 percent of the 750,000 species of arthropods
are potentially dangerous to humans. However, their impact is significant due to their
high numbers and the negative results of their activities. The impact is direct injury and
disease transmission to man and other animals; damage to crops; infestation of stored
products; and destruction of wooden structures. Still, many species are beneficial as
a.
57
pollinators, predators of other pests, scavengers of waste, manufacturers of food, and
a part of the natural balance of nature. However, the economic damage and medical
disorders caused by a few arthropods make some pest management practices
necessary to control the problem pests. Protection of the soldier from arthropods and
arthropodborne diseases is essential to mission accomplishment.
Direct Arthropod Affects on Human Health
In addition to disease transmission, arthropods can cause direct injuries to man. Bites, stings,
and allergic reactions are three major categories of injuries caused by arthropods. Arthropods
also affect man by annoying and disturbing him. The sound of a single mosquito buzzing
around your head while your are trying to sleep is annoying. Standing guard with gnats
buzzing around your face can be disturbing. Also, finding cockroaches or other insects or parts
of insects in your food is disturbing. The problems of arthropod injury and the exaggerated
fear of arthropods can even result in psychiatric problems.
a.
Biting Arthropods. Arthropods bite to feed, probe (taste), or defend themselves. Most
penetrations of human skin are made by mouthparts that are developed for ingesting
blood, tissue, and tissue fluids of animals or plants. These bites usually result in the
arthropod injecting salivary fluids or regurgitating its digestive tract products into the
man or animal. Some biting arthropods can also produce skin injuries. Each individuals
reaction to arthropod bites can be very different. Biting arthropods are grouped
according to the duration of host contact as (short-term) or prolonged (long-term).
1. Short-term host contact. Most arthropods that bite man have only short-term
host contact. Bloodsucking arthropods are frequently winged or highly mobile.
This accounts for their ability to quickly attack and escape capture or detection.
Some arthropods hide in structures close to the host and only feed when the
host is nearby. Others that bite may not have intended to attack, but did so in
defense or by mistake. Arthropods can bite in several stages of their
development; that is, adult, larvae, or nymph stages. The mouthparts are
generally classified into chewing or sucking types. Chewing mouthparts are
generally not used for skin penetration. Usually, injuries of this type are not
reported, but secondary infections may occur due to bacterial contamination.
Sucking mouthparts are structured for skin penetration.
a. Bloodsucking (hematophagous) arthropods. Blood, normally from
warmblooded animals (including man), is used both for life support and
growth and/or egg development. The mouthparts of sucking arthropods
vary greatly in structure from arthropod-to-arthropod. For example,
adults of the order Diptera (two-winged insects) have the most diverse
mouthparts. Only the females of the mosquitoes, black flies, biting
midges, horseflies, and deer flies are bloodsuckers, while both males
and females of tsetse flies and stable flies are bloodsuckers. The
58
mouthparts are different within each of these families of Diptera, but
the goal of a blood meal is the same. Other examples of arthropods that
are short-term are fleas, true bugs (conenose bugs and bedbugs), and
soft ticks.
b. Nonbloodsucking (nonhematophagous) arthropods. Some plant-feeding
arthropods and some arthropod predators have piercing/sucking
mouthparts, which are capable of penetrating the human skin. Bites
from these arthropods can be as painful as bloodsuckers, if not more so.
Bites from these arthropods are usually an act of defense.
2. Long-term host contact. Some biting arthropods require a considerable time on
the host to complete a normal life cycle. Since a continuous food supply is
available on one host, the search for another host is reduced. Most of these
arthropods are categorized as parasites. They are classified as either
ectoparasites or endoparasites. Ectoparasites (those living outside the host
body) may be flat (fleas) or thin (lice) which allows them to travel easily
through a hairy environment. Their feet are specialized for holding on to hair.
The mouthparts of ticks and mites are designed to anchor their bodies to the
host. Endoparasites (those living inside the host body) are usually soft-bodied
(fly larvae, mites) without legs or with very short legs; their bodies usually have
specially arranged spines or hairs.
b. Stinging Arthropods. Some arthropods affect man by injecting venom (insect toxins)
through stingers, fangs, modified front legs, or spines. An arthropod’s injection of
poison is in defense or to kill prey. Usually, man is envenomized by arthropods in
defense of themselves and their nest or eggs.
1. Venoms from bites. Spiders and centipedes are arthropods in the category that
uses mouthparts for envenomization. Most spiders use venom to kill prey. Man
is not part of a spider’s diet. The fangs of many spiders cannot penetrate the
human skin. Some species have venom that is more poisonous than other
venomous animals, including snakes. Fortunately, most spiders are not
aggressive, but will defend themselves and their eggs and/or webs. Antivenom
has been developed for the venom of some species of spiders, but they may not
be immediately available for use. Some of the more toxic spiders are night
hunters, and by day, they hide in clothing and boots that were left on the floor
or in tents on the ground. Less common are the bites of centipedes that are
also night hunters. In the tropics, some species of centipedes reach 25
centimeters in length; a bite by such a large specimen could be serious.
2. Venoms from stings. The number of soldiers seeking medical assistance
because of arthropod bites is far fewer than those seeking aid because of bee,
wasp, hornet, or ant stings. Stings from these arthropods are frequently the
result of defensive action. A single sting to an allergic person can be fatal. Even
to a person who is not strongly allergic, medical complications due to swelling
can occur with stings to the face, neck, or throat. Stings usually occur during
59
daylight hours. However, night maneuvers can result in individuals running into
paper wasp nests and being stung by wasps trying to protect their nests; or an
individual may stand on an anthill and receive numerous stings from the ants
trying to protect their nest. Therefore, individuals who are highly sensitive or
have severe reactions to stings should carry an emergency first aid kit for stings
as prescribed by a physician. Obviously, high-risk persons should use extreme
caution in tropical areas. Another venomous arthropod with a potent sting is
the scorpion. Scorpions are active at night. During the day scorpions are usually
well-hidden from the light; they hide under rocks or in piles of debris outside
and in clothing, cabinets, boxes, and footwear indoors. Stings often are the
result of individuals walking barefoot or in stocking feet, or because they use
their hand to move the object where the scorpion is hiding. Also, stings occur
when individuals put on clothing or footgear without first shaking the item to
make sure that it is free of unwanted arthropods. Some scorpion venoms are
very painful or they may be deadly, while others are not. The absence of initial
pain is not always an indication of no problem. The lack of or the
nonavailability of antivenom and the possible medical problems associated
with the use of antivenoms, even if they were on hand, are additional reasons
for avoiding scorpion stings.
c. Allergy. Allergic reactions are caused by both the bites and stings of arthropods.
Additionally, arthropod parts (live or dead) and their body fluids can cause allergic
reactions. Allergic reactions are extremely variable in different people ranging from
very mild to severe reactions. Highly sensitive persons should be prepared to deal with
their problems in case they are bitten, stung, or exposed to other arthropod allergens.
Arthropodborne Diseases
Diseases transmitted to man by arthropods are some of the most serious known to man.
Uncontrolled, these illnesses can cripple or destroy military forces. The effect of these diseases
on man can range from a very mild illness to death. For examples of arthropodborne diseases
and their vectors see Table 2-1. House flies and other flying insects that are attracted to
human wastes or other organic material can spread disease organisms to food and water. The
disease organisms or parasites of humans are carried from diseased humans or animals
(reservoirs) by arthropods (vectors) to other humans or animals (hosts). By employing
individual PMM, soldiers can stop arthropod borne diseases from being a factor in their lives
and in their units mission accomplishment. The most common arthropod borne diseases that
affect combat troops are discussed below.
DISEASE
MALARIA
VECTOR
MOSQUITO
60
CHAGAS' DISEASE
KISSING BUG (REDUVIID)
LEISHMANIASIS
SAND FLY (PHLEBOTOMINE)
YELLOW FEVER
MOSQUITO
DENGUE FEVER
MOSQUITO
ENCEPHALITIS
MOSQUITO
SANOFLY FEVER OR PHLEBOTOMUS FEVER
SAND FLY (PHLEBOTOMINE)
TYPHUS FEVER (EPIDEMIC)
BODY LOUSE
TYPHUS FEVER (MURINE)
FLEA
SCRUB TYPHUS
LARVAL MITE (CHIGGER)
BUBONIC PLAGUE
FLEA
DYSENTERY
FILTH FLIES (PARTICULARLY THE HOUSE FLY)
TYPHOID FEVER
FLIES AND COCKROACHES (BY FOOD CONTAMINATION)
SPOTTED FEVER
TICK
FILARIASIS (ELEPHANTIASIS)
MOSQUITO
ONCHOCERCIASIS
BLACK FLY
Malaria. Malaria is a serious disease occurring most commonly in tropical and
semitropical regions. It is caused by a microscopic parasite carried by the Anopheles
mosquito. This parasite destroys blood cells and causes chills, fever, weakness, and
anemia. If untreated, malaria can cause death.
b. Yellow Fever. Yellow fever is a viral disease transmitted by the Aedes mosquito. It
occurs in tropical Africa, Central America, and tropical South America. Symptoms are
fever, headache, backache, jaundice, and internal bleeding. If untreated, yellow fever
can result in death.
c.
Dengue Fever. Dengue viruses of multiple types are now endemic throughout most
tropical areas of the world and are highly endemic in Southeast Asia, the Philippines,
West Africa, and northern Australia. Like yellow fever, it is transmitted by the Aedes
mosquito. Symptoms are fever (lasting about 5 days), intense headaches, skin rash,
and muscle pain which can be severe; for this reason, another name for dengue fever is
breakbone fever. The disease seldom results in death, but the recovery time is usually
long and the victim may be fatigued and depressed.
a.
61
COMMUNICATION
While water, food, shelter, and security are without doubt the most important elements of
preparedness, effective communication is one pivotal to security.
Having effective communications equipment will help ensure you can communicate with the
family, and the family can discern if emergency warrants bugging out or sheltering in place.
Having all family members licensed and equipped with an inexpensive 2 meter HAM radio
would be ideal. The new handheld HAM radios provide a wide range of frequencies to work
on, repeater access, scanning frequencies for other communicators, Internet operations,
emergency weather, emergency protocols and more.
All family members should have also have a VHF transceiver located in their bugout bags,
vehicles should be equipped with Citizen Band radios.
Cellphone towers are very durable. As long as they have electricity, they should be up and
running.
Additional communication equipment should include a Shortwave/AM/FM receiver allowing
you to get information from around the world.
When communicating via radio or cellphone with family or other preppers, if something
requires follow-up, establish a time and a frequency if necessary to reestablish contact.
62
MORSE CODE
63
SEMAPHORE
64
AREA CODES BY STATE
(as of 2015)
Alabama
Alaska
American Samoa
Arizona
Arkansas
California
Colorado
Connecticut
Delaware
Florida
Georgia
Guam
Hawaii
Idaho
Illinois
Indiana
Iowa
Kansas
Kentucky
Louisiana
Maine
Maryland
Massachusetts
Michigan
Minnesota
Mississippi
Missouri
Montana
Nebraska
Nevada
New Hampshire
New Jersey
New Mexico
New York
205, 251, 256, 334, 938
907
684
480, 520, 602, 623, 928
479, 501, 870
209, 213, 310, 323, 408, 415, 424, 442, 510, 530, 559, 562, 619, 626, 650,
657, 661, 669, 707, 714, 747, 760, 805, 818, 831, 858, 909, 916, 925, 949,
951
303, 719, 720, 970
203, 475, 860
302
239, 305, 321, 352, 386, 407, 561, 727, 754, 772, 786, 813, 850, 863, 904,
941, 954
229, 404, 470, 478, 678, 706, 762, 770, 912
671
808
208
217, 224, 309, 312, 331, 618, 630, 708, 773, 779, 815, 847, 872
219, 260, 317, 574, 765, 812
319, 515, 563, 641, 712
316, 620, 785, 913
270, 502, 606, 859
225, 318, 337, 504, 985
207
240, 301, 410, 443, 667
339, 351, 413, 508, 617, 774, 781, 857, 978
231, 248, 269, 313, 517, 586, 616, 734, 810, 906, 947, 989
218, 320, 507, 612, 651, 763, 952
228, 601, 662, 769
314, 417, 573, 636, 660, 816
406
308, 402, 531
702, 725, 775
603
201, 551, 609, 732, 848, 856, 862, 908, 973
505, 575
212, 315, 347, 516, 518, 585, 607, 631, 646, 716, 718, 845, 914, 917, 929
65
North Carolina
North Dakota
Northern Mariana
Islands
Ohio
Oklahoma
Oregon
Pennsylvania
Puerto Rico
Rhode Island
South Carolina
South Dakota
Tennessee
Texas
Utah
Vermont
Virgin Islands
Virginia
Washington
Washington, DC
West Virginia
Wisconsin
Wyoming
252, 336, 704, 828, 910, 919, 980, 984
701
670
216, 234, 330, 419, 440, 513, 567, 614, 740, 937
405, 539, 580, 918
458, 503, 541, 971
215, 267, 272, 412, 484, 570, 610, 717, 724, 814, 878
787, 939
401
803, 843, 864
605
423, 615, 731, 865, 901, 931
210, 214, 254, 281, 325, 346, 361, 409, 430, 432, 469, 512, 682, 713, 737,
806, 817, 830, 832, 903, 915, 936, 940, 956, 972, 979
385, 435, 801
802
340
276, 434, 540, 571, 703, 757, 804
206, 253, 360, 425, 509
202
304, 681
262, 414, 534, 608, 715, 920
307
66
13
OFFICIAL EMERGENCY FREQUENCY LIST
34.90: USED NATIONWIDE BY THE NATIONAL GUARD DURING EMERGENCIES.
39.46: USED FOR INTER-DEPARTMENT EMERGENCY COMMUNICATIONS BY LOCAL AND STATE
POLICE FORCES.
47.42: USED ACROSS THE UNITED STATES BY THE RED CROSS FOR RELIEF OPERATIONS.
52.525: CALLING FREQUENCY USED BY HAM RADIO OPERATORS IN FM ON THEIR SIX-METER
BAND.
121.50: INTERNATIONAL AERONAUTICAL EMERGENCY FREQUENCY.
138.225: DISASTER RELIEF OPERATIONS CHANNEL USED BY THE FEDERAL EMERGENCY
MANAGEMENT AGENCY; IT IS ACTIVE DURING EARTHQUAKES, HURRICANES, FLOODS, AND
OTHER CATASTROPHIC EVENTS.
146.52: USED BY HAM RADIO OPERATORS FOR NON-REPEATER COMMUNICATIONS ON THE
TWO-METER BAND; IT IS VERY BUSY IN MANY PARTS OF THE COUNTRY.
151.625: USED BY “ITINERANT” BUSINESSES, OR THOSE THAT TRAVEL ABOUT THE COUNTRY.
CIRCUSES, EXHIBITIONS, TRADE SHOWS, AND SPORTS TEAMS ARE SOME OF THE USERS YOU
CAN HEAR. OTHER WIDELY USED ITINERANT CHANNELS ARE 154.57 AND 154.60.
154.28: USED FOR INTER-DEPARTMENT EMERGENCY COMMUNICATIONS BY LOCAL FIRE
DEPARTMENTS; 154.265 AND 154.295 ALSO USED.
155.160: USED FOR INTER-DEPARTMENT EMERGENCY COMMUNICATIONS BY LOCAL AND
STATE AGENCIES DURING SEARCH AND RESCUE OPERATIONS.
155.475: USED FOR INTER-DEPARTMENT EMERGENCY COMMUNICATIONS BY LOCAL AND
STATE POLICE FORCES.
156.75: USED INTERNATIONALLY FOR BROADCASTS OF MARITIME WEATHER ALERTS. 156.80:
INTERNATIONAL MARITIME DISTRESS, CALLING, AND SAFETY CHANNEL. ALL SHIPS MUST
MONITOR THIS FREQUENCY WHILE AT SEA. IT IS ALSO HEAVILY USED ON RIVERS, LAKES, ETC.
162.40: NOAA WEATHER BROADCASTS AND BULLETINS.
163.4875: USED NATIONWIDE BY THE NATIONAL GUARD DURING EMERGENCIES.
163.5125: THE NATIONAL DISASTER PREPAREDNESS FREQUENCY USED JOINTLY BY THE ARMED
FORCES.
164.50: NATIONAL COMMUNICATIONS CHANNEL FOR THE DEPARTMENT OF HOUSING AND
URBAN DEVELOPMENT.
13
http://survivalblog.com/an-emergency-frequencies-list/
67
168.55: NATIONAL CHANNEL USED BY CIVILIAN AGENCIES OF THE FEDERAL GOVERNMENT FOR
COMMUNICATIONS DURING EMERGENCIES AND DISASTERS.
243.00: USED DURING MILITARY AVIATION EMERGENCIES.
259.70: USED BY THE SPACE SHUTTLE DURING RE-ENTRY AND LANDING.
296.80: USED BY THE SPACE SHUTTLE DURING RE-ENTRY AND LANDING.
311.00: FLIGHT CHANNEL USED BY THE U.S. AIR FORCE.
317.70: USED BY U.S. COAST GUARD AVIATION.
317.80: USED BY U.S. COAST GUARD AVIATION.
319.40: USED BY THE U.S. AIR FORCE.
340.20: USED BY U.S. NAVY AVIATORS.
409.20: NATIONAL COMMUNICATIONS CHANNEL FOR THE INTERSTATE COMMERCE
COMMISSION.
409.625: NATIONAL COMMUNICATIONS CHANNEL FOR THE DEPARTMENT OF STATE.
462.675: USED FOR EMERGENCY COMMUNICATIONS AND TRAVELER ASSISTANCE IN THE
GENERAL MOBILE RADIO SERVICE.
CIVILIAN EMERGENCY FREQUENCY LIST14
THE FOLLOWING ARE THE FREQUENCIES THAT HAVE BEEN DESIGNATED BY CATASTROPHE
NETWORK AND THE THE AMERICAN PREPAREDNESS RADIO NETWORK (TAPRN):
•80 METERS – 3.818 MHZ LSB (TAPRN NET: SUNDAYS AT 9 PM ET)
•40 METERS – 7.242 MHZ LSB
•40 METERS MORSE CODE / DIGITAL – 7.073 MHZ USB
•20 METERS – 14.242 MHZ USB
•20 METERS MORSE CODE / DIGITAL – 14.073 MHZ USB
•2 METERS – 146.420 MHZ FM
•440 (70 CM) – 446.420 MHZ FM
•FRS/GMRS – CHANNEL 4 (462.6375 MHZ)
•CB – CHANNEL 4 (27.005 MHZ)
•MURS – CHANNEL 4 (154.570 MHZ)
14
http://radicalsurvivalism.com/web/2013/03/30/the-standardized-amateur-radio-prepper-communications-plan/
68
SIMPLE RADIO SCHEMATICS
FM Transmitter 15
CW (Morse Code) Transmitter16
15
http://www.circuiteasy.com/circuit_diagram/fm.jpg
16
http://www.sparkbangbuzz.com/easy-ten/t-xmtr2-60.gif
69
Simple AM Transmitter17
17
http://www.techlib.com/electronics/graphics/amsch.gif
70
18
18
http://atmega32-avr.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/circuit_schematic_symbols1.jpg
71
BARTERING
If society as we know it today collapses, what will you use as currency to make exchanges?
Certain things in society will always have value. Of those certain things, we can always count
on the following to have value: Knowledge, bullets, food, clean water, and booze.
Be capable of producing stuff to barter.
Even in the darkest and most depressed times when nobody has anything else, they will have
their booze. Be a consumer or be a producer, or perhaps both. This not only be bartering
instrument during a Zombie Apocalypse, it can be a great hobby too.
HOW TO DISTILL PURE ALCOHOL19
Gather supplies. It's important to use the right supplies when you're making alcohol, because
using equipment made from the wrong material can backfire - literally. For the sake of safety
and the best chance of making true moonshine, collect the following supplies:
 A pressure cooker. Use one you don't intend to use for other purposes, or buy a
new pressure cooker specifically for making moonshine.
 Copper tubing. You'll need about two yards of tubing that is 1/4" in width. This
can be purchased at a hardware or home and garden store.
 A drill with at least a 1/4" bit, for drilling a hole in the lid of the pressure cooker.
 A 15 gallon (56.8 L) metal pot.
 A large plastic bucket.
 Cheesecloth.
 10 pounds of cornmeal, 10 pounds of sugar and 1/2 ounce of yeast
Build a still. Drill a hole in the lid of the pressure cooker and thread it to snugly receive a 1/4"
copper tubing. Insert the end of the 1/4" copper tubing into the hole, being careful that it does
not project through more than an inch. This is your condensing tube.
 The tube should be long enough to go from the cooker to a sink and extend
beyond the sink down to near the floor.
 If you don't want to drill a hole in the cooker's lid, you can thread it through the
vent and affix it there using duct tape.
Boil 10 gallons (37.9 L) of water. Place the pot under the sink and fill it 2/3 way, then place the
pot on the stove and turn the burner on high. Let the water come to a rolling boil.
19
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Moonshine
72
Cook the cornmeal. Add the 10 pounds of cornmeal to the water and stir it will a wooden
paddle or another instrument. Let it cook for a few minutes until the water combines with the
cornmeal and thickens into a paste. Remove the mixture from heat and allow it to cool, then
pour it into the clean bucket.
Add the sugar and yeast. Stir in 10 pounds of sugar and 1/2 ounce of yeast. Use a wooden
paddle or another large instrument to thoroughly incorporate the sugar and yeast into the
mash.
 Bread, brewers' yeast, naturally occurring yeast or even sourdough starter may
be used in place of dry yeast to start the fermentation process.
Ferment the mash. Loosely cover the bucket with cheesecloth and place it in a cool, dark place,
such as in your cellar or basement, to allow fermentation to take place. Fermentation occurs
when the yeast metabolizes the sugar and corn carbohydrates and produces alcohol.
 A brown or light tan foam will appear on top of the mash bucket, gradually rising
up higher each day. When the mash quits working, the sugars are "used up," and
you will notice the foam, or "head" is no longer rising.
 The mash is ready for the next stage when it stops bubbling. At this point it is
referred to as "sour mash."
Strain the sour mash through a cheesecloth. Place the cloth over the bucket, then tip the
bucket over a clean bucket or pot. You may also use a screen wire or a clean white t-shirt to
strain the mash.
Pour the strained mash liquid into the pressure cooker. Clamp down the lid and place it on a
stovetop burner. You may discard the solids that you strained out with the cheesecloth.
Position the copper tubing to create a condenser. Run the copper tubing run from the lid (or
vent) of the pressure cooker to a sink filled with cold water. Coil the middle of the copper
tubing in the cold water, then run the other end of the tube over the edge of the sink to a clean
container on the floor.
Turn the stove on under the pressure cooker. Let the contents heat to exactly 177 degrees F
(80 Celsius) and no more. This is the approximate boiling point of grain alcohol. As the pressure
cooker heats, the alcohol turns into ethanol steam, travels through the condensing tube to
cool. The resulting liquid drips into the container on the floor. That's the moonshine.
 The liquid that comes out of the copper tube before the cooker reaches 177
degrees contains methanol, which becomes steam at a lower temperature than
ethanol. This low-boiling liquid must be tossed out. Methanol attacks the optic
nerves when consumed. You'll probably have to throw out at least two ounces of
liquid before ethanol, which can actually be consumed, begins to emerge.
73

Keep monitoring the temperature and collecting alcohol until the temperature
rises above 177 degrees or drops below it. You should be able to collect about 2
gallons (7.6 L) of liquid.
Transfer the alcohol to jars. Finished moonshine is between 180 and 190 proof (90 to 95%) practically pure grain alcohol. To make this product drinkable, responsible brewers cut it to half
strength by mixing with pure spring water.
TIPS






Using a hydrometer to test for alcohol content and a thermometer to cook the mash will
give better results.
Most people who make "'shine" do so outside, over a wood fire, near a cold-water
creek. This eliminates the danger of cooking alcohol indoors. The mash, while "working,"
has a very strong odor, which is another reason to do this outdoors.
Let the mash work as long as the head, or foam, seems to be rising, but it will ferment
out and go sour, so about 10 to 14 days is maximum, depending on temperature. Yeast
acts more slowly at lower temps.
Do not invite friends over while the mash is working. I have personally smelled mash
from over a mile away while fishing on creeks in moonshine country.
Keep the sour mash covered, but not airtight. A wine maker's flask with an air lock
would work well for this.
Saccharomyces cerevisiae is a singular species of yeast used in both bread and brewer’s
yeast. Brewer’s yeast and Whisky yeast are carefully bred strains of Saccharomyces
cerevisiae that are simply more resistant to higher concentrations of ethyl alcohol and
take longer to die off thus extending their lifespan and their production of ethyl alcohol.
Neither bread nor brewer’s yeast create by-products that will cause illness, blindness, or
death. Distillers generally remove the first 5% of the distillate termed 'foreshots',
(containing esters, methylate, and aldehydes). They are distasteful but not fatal and the
smell and taste is naturally prohibitive. On record, fore-shot distillate has never blinded,
killed, or sickened anyone, it just tastes bad
HOW TO DISTILL VODKA
Vodka is a neutral spirit that is without distinctive character, aroma, taste, or color. These
properties are developed during the distillation process or by treating crudely distilled spirits
with activated carbon or other materials. Finely distilled vodka may also be further purified and
refined by treatment with activated carbon and other materials. Vodka is usually not aged and
can be made from grains, potatoes, sugars, fruits, and just about anything else that can be
fermented to produce alcohol. This makes vodka an economical spirit that can be made easily
in a short amount of time from readily available materials.
74
Choose the ingredients you want to ferment into vodka. Vodka is commonly made from
wheat, rye, barley, corn, or potatoes. Sugar and molasses can also be used alone or added to
other ingredients. One distiller even makes an innovative vodka from Pinot Noir red wine.
Whatever you choose, it must have sugars or starches so that alcohol is ultimately produced.
Yeast eats sugars or starches and spits out alcohol and carbon dioxide.
 When making vodka from grains and potatoes, a mash must be made that
contains active enzymes that break down the starches from the grains or
potatoes and makes fermentable sugars.
 Fruit juice already contains sugars so starch-degrading enzymes are not needed.
As with fruit juice, vodka made from store-bought sugars need only be
fermented, thus bypassing the need for a mash.
 When already fermented mediums such as wine are used, the medium can be
distilled right away into vodka.
Decide whether your mash ingredients are sufficient. If you decide to just use potatoes to
make vodka, for example, your potatoes are going to need a little help converting starch into
sugar. That's where enzymes come in. Consult this basic chart to figure out whether you need
additional enzymes in your mash in order to convert starches into sugar:
Ingredients to Consider when Making your Mash
Ingredients
Requires Enzymes?
Additional Notes
Grains and
Potatoes
Yes
Grains and potatoes are sources of starch, not
sugar. Enzymes are needed to break down
the starch into sugar.
Malted Whole
Grains (e.g.
malted barley,
malted wheat
No. Malted whole
grains are rich in
natural enzymes that
break down starches
into fermentable
sugars.
Enzymes activate in malted grains when the
grain is cracked open and exposed to warm
water for a sustained period. Milled, malted
grains can be used alone, as they contain
starch, or added to a starchy, enzyme-poor
mash. Choose malted grains that are high in
enzymes, such as malted wheat.
Refined Sugar
and Molasses
No. Because the sugar
Sugar may be used solely to make vodka or
is already there, the
added to starchy mashes to add additional
yeast doesn't need
fermentable material.
additional enzymes.
Depending on your mash ingredients, decide whether you need to use additional enzymes.
Food-grade amylase enzyme powder can be purchased from a homebrew shop and added to
the mash to convert the starch into fermentable sugars, if you're using something like potatoes,
75
for example. Use the recommended amount for the amount of starch to be broken down.
There is no need to use malted, enzyme-rich grains such as malted barley or wheat when using
enzyme powder.
 For enzymes to be able to break down starches, even the starches of malted,
enzyme-rich grain, the starches must first be gelatinized. Flaked (rolled) grains
are often already gelatinized. Ungelatinised ingredients such as potatoes and
unrolled or malted grains are heated in water to the gelatinization temperature
of the particular starch that is used. Potatoes usually gelatinize at about 150° F
(66° C), and barley and wheat gelatinize at about the same temperature.
Theoretically a potato mash should only need to be heated to 150° F (66° C). If a
low temperature is used with potatoes, the potatoes should be finely shredded
before adding them to the water.
 Starch-degrading enzymes only work at specific temperatures and are destroyed
at high temperatures. A temperature of 150° F (66° C) is common, but
temperatures above 158° F (70° C) will result in the destruction of the enzymes.
The absolute maximum temperature is 165° F (74° C); while enzymes will work
for a period of time at this temperature and it can be used, much of the enzymes
will be destroyed.
Try a wheat mash. In a 10 gallon (38 l) metal pot with lid, heat 6 gallons (23 l) of water to about
165° F (74° C). Add two gallons of dry, flaked wheat and stir. Check the temperature and ensure
that it is between 150° F (66° C) and 155° F (68° C). Stir in one gallon of crushed wheat malt. The
temperature should be about 149° F (65°). Cover and let rest for 90 minutes to two hours,
stirring occasionally. The starches should convert into fermentable sugars during this time, and
the mixture should become much less viscous. After 90 minutes to two hours, cool the mixture
to 80° - 85° F (27° - 29° C). Use an immersion chiller for rapid cooling or just let it cool overnight,
but don’t let it get much below 80F.
OPTIONAL - Try a potato mash. Clean 20 pounds of potatoes. Without peeling, boil them in a
large kettle until gelatinized, about one hour. Discard the water and thoroughly mash the
potatoes by hand or with a food processor. Return the mashed potatoes to the kettle and add
five to six gallons of tap water. Mix to blend and bring mixture to just over 150° F (66° C). Add
two pounds of crushed, malted barley or wheat and stir well. Cover and stir periodically over
the course of two hours. Let cool overnight to 80° - 85° F (27° - 29° C).
 Letting it cool for a long period of time also gives the barley malt enzymes more
time to break down the potato starch.
OPTIONAL - Try a corn mash. Make a mash according to the wheat mash recipe, but substitute
flaked, pre-gelatinized corn (maize) for the flaked wheat. Alternatively, sprout your own corn
over the course of three days and make a mash from it without added malted grain. A root
about two inches long should sprout from each grain. The sprouted corn will contain enzymes
that were formed during the germination (sprouting) process.
76
Clean all your utensils and prepare the area properly. Fermentation is conducted in clean,
sanitized vessels that are sometimes open but often sealed from the air to prevent crosscontamination. Fermentation usually lasts for three to five days.
 Fermentation is also possible in vessels that haven't been cleaned or sanitized,
and the distilled product will yield drinkable alcohol, but the fermentation may
result in a high level of unwanted flavor compounds and higher alcohols due to
the action of unwanted yeast stains and bacteria.
 Oxidative cleaners such as B-Brite are available at homebrew shops, as are
sanitizers such as iodophor.
Choose and set up your airlock. An airlock is a mechanism that will allow CO2 to escape without
letting O2 to get in. Five gallon batches of strained mash can be fermented in a 7.5 gallon (28 l)
food-grade bucket or in 6 gallon (23 l) carboys. Lids can be affixed to buckets, as can drilled
rubber stoppers to carboys, but when using a lid or a stopper, never seal the vessel completely,
as pressure from carbon dioxide production will create explosive pressure. Therefore, affix an
airlock to lids and drilled rubber stoppers.
 When fermentation is conducted in open vessels, put a cheesecloth over the
vessel to keep out bugs and other undesirable things.
Strain the mash or liquid into your fermentation vessel. If a mash was made, strain the liquid
with a fine mesh strainer from the mash into your cleaned and sanitized fermentation vessel.
Try to splash the liquid and pour it from a distance so that it is well aerated. Yeast needs air
(oxygen) initially to grow and start a quality fermentation. This is because yeast makes cellular
material in the form of lipids from oxygen. However, oxygen is not desired after this initial
growth stage, as yeast produces alcohol in the absence of oxygen
 As an alternative, ferment the mash without straining. However, the fermented
mash should still be aerated in some manner, possibly with an aquarium air
pump and an aeration stone. The mash will also need to be strained before it is
added to the still, and it may be more convenient to ferment the smaller volume
that results from a strained mash, as the fermenting mash may overflow the
vessel.
 If a sugar solution is to be used, prepare a solution as described in Make Alcohol
from Common Table Sugar. Also aerate by pouring from a distance into the
fermentation vessel.
 If juice is to be fermented, aerate by pouring from a height through a sieve or
strainer into the fermentation vessel.
Add yeast to to the fermentable medium. Hydrate the appropriate amount of dried distillers or
other desired yeast and add it to the liquid. Stir with a clean, sanitized spoon to evenly disperse
the yeast. If using an airlock, the airlock will bubble during active fermentation, and the
bubbling will slow dramatically or cease altogether as the liquid becomes completely
77
fermented. Keep the fermenting liquid in a room that is about 80° - 85° F (27° - 29° C) to
facilitate good, efficient fermentation. Alternately, use a heating belt in cold areas.
 Distillers yeast will ferment cleanly, produce a high amount of alcohol (ethanol),
and produce a relatively low amount of unwanted compounds such as alcohols
other than ethanol. The amount of yeast used will depend on the specific brand
or type of yeast used.
 Nutrients may be included with the yeast in the yeast packet. Yeast nutrients are
needed when fermenting a medium that is low in nutrients, such as sugar
solutions, but they can also improve fermentations when used with nutrient-rich
mediums such as those made from grains.
Collect the fermented liquid, also called "the wash." Siphon off the fermented, alcoholic liquid
(called the wash) into a cleaned and sanitized vessel or into the distillation apparatus. Leave the
yeast sediment behind in the fermentation vessel, as it can scorch when heated in the still. The
siphoned wash may also be further clarified by filtration or other means before distillation.
Try distilling with a column still if you can. Column stills are more complex and sophisticated
than pot stills. They can be purchased or, depending on the still design, built using readily
available materials. However, column stills and pot stills work in a relatively similar manner:
 Cooling water is usually circulated through a sealed compartment in the
distillation column, causing the vaporized alcohol and other substances to
condense in the column. This means that such a still must be attached directly to
a faucet or a mechanical pump to move water from a supply into the still.
 If not recirculating water from a single supply, thousands of gallons of water may
need to be used to make a small batch of vodka. If water is recirculated from a
central reservoir using a pump, about fifty gallons of water can be used, but the
water will heat up and become less effective.
 See Sources and Citations below for detailed, high quality instructions for the
construction and use of column stills.
If you can find or build a column still, opt for a pot still. Simple pot stills are akin to pressure
cookers that are attached to piping or tubing. They can be constructed very easily and cheaply.
Unlike column stills that are essentially vertical columns, pot stills may utilize bent or coiled
tubing or piping that can be submersed in a vessel of cooling water. Pumps and large volumes
of cooling water are not required, but can be used.
 See Sources and Citations below for detailed, high-quality instructions for the
construction of pot stills.
Get ready for distillation. Stills heat the fermented, relatively-low alcoholic wash to a
temperature that is greater than the boiling point of alcohol, yet less than the boiling point of
water. In this way, the alcohol vaporizes while the bulk of the water does not. The vaporized
alcohol (along with some vaporized water) travel up into the column, pipe or tube of the still.
78
External cooling in the form of cold water is applied to the column, pipe or tubing, causing the
vaporized alcohol to cool and condense back into liquid. This alcoholic liquid is collected and
becomes vodka.
Heat the wash in the still to begin the distillation process. Depending on the type of still being
used, gas burners, wood fires, or electric hot plates are all options. A temperature of about
173° F (78.3° C) at sea level is desirable, but the temperature must be kept below the boiling
point of water, 212° F (100° C) at sea level. As the wash becomes heated, alcohol and other
substances vaporize and condense in the water-cooled area of the still.
Throw out the heads. The first distilled liquid (called the “heads”) that is recovered from the
still will be rich in harmful methanol and other volatile chemicals that you don't want to drink.
For 5 gallons (19 l) of wash, discard at least the first 2 ounces (30 ml) of distillate.
Collect the body. After you discard the heads, the collected distillate will contain the desired
alcohol (ethanol), along with some water and other compounds. This is called the “body”.
During this time, if using a column still with flowing cold water, the water flow can be adjusted
to control the distillate output and purity. Try to shoot for two or three teaspoons of distillate
per minute. Increased distillate output results in decreased purity.
Throw out the tails. Towards the end of the distillation process, when the temperature creeps
up to 212° F (100° C) and beyond, the distillation process produces other nasty chemicals.
These are called the “tails,” which contain fusel alcohols. The tails are undesirable and should
be discarded.
Check the alcohol content and purity of the distillate. Cool a sample of the distillate to 68° F
(20° C) and use a hydrometer to measure the percentage of alcohol of the distillate. The
distillate may be too dilute to serve as acceptable vodka (weaker than 40 percent alcohol), or
may be more concentrated than desired (perhaps higher than 50 percent alcohol). Vodka is
usually diluted before bottling, so the distillate may have a very high alcohol content. The
distillate may also be too flavorful and aromatic and require additional distillations or carbon
filtering.
Redistill the distillate if necessary or desired. This increases the alcohol content and further
purifies the distillate. It is common to redistill the distillate three or more times to achieve
vodka that has a high purity. Some of the best vodkas are redistilled at least three times.
Treat with a carbon filter (activated carbon) if necessary. Pass the distillate through a carbon
filter, such as those available at homebrewing shops, to remove unwanted volatile flavors and
aromas. Carbon water filters can also be modified to purify the distillate. HINT – Engineers
students are known to just buy cheap vodka and run it through a Britta water filter to make it drinkable.
79
Dilute the vodka to the desired strength. Add purified water to the distillate to attain the
desired alcohol percentage. Use a hydrometer to measure the alcohol percentage.
Bottle the vodka. Fill bottles using a gravity bottle filler setup and cork or cap the bottles. Label
the bottles with custom labels if desired. Some gravity fillers may consist of a 7.5 gallon (29 L)
bottling bucket (with spigot), vinyl tubing, and a simple spring-loaded plastic bottle filler.
Multiple-spout wine bottle fillers can also be used.
HOW TO MAKE WHISKEY20
Ingredients



10 lbs. (4.5kg) whole untreated kernel corn
5 gallon (18.9 L). (18.9 l) water, plus more warm water for sprouting
Approximately 1 cup (237g) champagne yeast (refer to manufacturer's instructions for
specific proportions)
 Large burlap sack
 Clean pillowcase
Yield: About 2 gallons (7.5 l) whiskey
Sprouting the Corn and Making the Mash
Sprouting kernel corn is a simple matter of getting it wet and allowing small sprouts to grow.
Once the corn is sprouted, it's ready to be made into a mash. A mash is a combination of warm
water and grain. The enzymes in the mash break down the starch in the grain and produce
sugar.
Start the sprouting process by soaking the corn with warm water. Place 10 lbs. (4.5 kg) of
untreated kernel corn in a burlap sack and place that burlap sack in a larger bucket or
container. Then, saturate the burlap sack with warm water. Make sure the corn is completely
and evenly soaked.
 Why sprout the corn for whiskey? In short, sprouting eliminates the need for
added sugar in the mash, allowing you to get a more authentic whiskey. Also
called "malting," sprouting causes enzymes in the corn to convert starches to
sugar. Those sugars then become the building blocks of the alcohol in the
whiskey.
Let the kernel corn sprout for 8 to 10 days. Keep the bag in a warm, dark environment, such as
a well-insulated garage or basement. Make sure the corn remains damp for about a week and a
20
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Whiskey
80
half. During the sprouting phase, keep the temperature of the corn between 62° and 86° F (17°
and 30° C).
Remove the sprouted ends from the corn. Wait for the sprouts to grow 1/4 in. (0.6 cm) long,
and then rinse the corn in a bucket of clean water. While doing so, remove as many of the
sprouted roots as possible by hand. Discard the sprouts. Reserve the corn.
Crush the kernels. Using a rolling pin with a solid end, a wooden muddler, or any other large
implement, crush the kernels in the primary fermenter. Stop when all the kernels have been
broken apart.
 If you want to, you can also use a grist mill to crack apart the corn. You can only
do this, however, when your corn is fully dried; wet corn won't go through the
grist mill properly.
 To dry your corn for use in a grist mill: Lay the sprouted corn in a thin layer over
a clean, even surface. Place a box fan near the corn and turn it on. Let the fan dry
out the damp corn, stirring a couple times a day.
Add 5 gallons (18.9 l) of boiling hot water to the corn mash. You're now ready to ferment.
Fermenting the Mash
During this phase of the whiskey making, it's especially important to keep all the instruments
and containers you'll be using clean. A small contamination could ruin the entire batch of
whiskey. Be sure to sterilize any thermometers, container lids, and airlocks you might be using,
as well as sanitize your hands beforehand.
Allow the mash to cool down to 86º F (30º C). Use a thermometer to test the temperature. You
want the mash to cool down but still be considerably warm for the yeast to do its job.
Pitch the yeast. Add the yeast to the top of the mash and close the lid on the fermenter. For
about four to five minutes, carefully pitch the fermenter at an angle, slowly moving back and
forth, to agitate the yeast.
Vent your fermenter with an airlock. An airlock is an essential tool for fermentation. It allows
the CO2 to escape but no air to get into the mash. Air getting into mash would minimize the
effect that yeast otherwise has.
 You can make an airlock yourself quite easily, but buying one is cheap. It's
possible to get one for under a couple of bucks.
Allow the mash to ferment in a relatively warm environment. The fermentation process will
take anywhere from 5 to 10 days, depending on the yeast, the temperature, and how much
grain you're using.Use a hydrometer to tell when the primary fermentation is complete. If the
81
reading on the hydrometer is the same for two to three consecutive days, you're ready to begin
distillation.
 Try to keep the mash at a steady 77° F (25° C) while it's fermenting. Again, you
need enough heat for the yeast to activate and consume the starch.
When the mash is finished fermenting, strain or siphon the mash into a still. If choosing to
strain the mash, use a clean pillowcase. Try to keep as much of the solids as possible away from
the still when transferring the mash.
Distillation
Mash cleared of particulate solids is called the wash, wort, or sour mash. At this point, the wash
has about 15% alcohol by volume. Distilling the wash will increase the alcohol content greatly.
For best results, get a pot still. If you're especially handy and have the time, you can build a still
yourself.
Heat the wash in the still slowly, until it just reaches a boil. With whiskeys, you don't want to
rush the distillation; heat up the still on medium heat over the course of 30 minutes to an hour
until it just begins to boil. Heating the wash too quickly will result in burnt wash and off flavors.
The temperature zone in which you'll distill your alcohol will be between 172° and 212° F (78°
and 100° C).
 Why this temperature? Alcohol and water have different evaporation points.
Alcohol begins to evaporate at 172° F, whereas water doesn't begin to evaporate
until 212° F. So if you can heat the wash up to at least 172° F but no more than
212° F, the evaporated liquid in the still will be alcohol and not water.
Turn on the condensing tube after the wash hits 120º - 140º F (50º - 60º C). The condensing
tube takes the evaporated alcohol and cools it quickly, turning it back into liquid form. Slowly,
the condensing tube should begin to spit out liquid.
Throw out the heads. The heads are a mixture of volatile compounds that evaporate from the
wash and should not be consumed. They include methanol, which is lethal in large quantities.
Luckily, the heads come out of the wash first. For a 5 gallon (18.9 L) wash, prepare to throw out
the first 50 - 100 mL of condensed liquid just to be safe.
Collect the body in 500 mL batches. After the heads is collected and dumped, you're ready to
collect the good stuff. When the thermometer on the condensing tube hits 175º - 185º F (80º 85º C), you're starting to collect the valuable prize — moonshine. This is also referred to as the
"body" of the distillate.
Throw out the tails. Continue collecting the body until the thermometer on the condensing
tube begins reading 205º F (96º C). At this point, the evaporated liquids you start distilling are
fusel oils, which should be thrown away.
82
Turn off the heat source and let the pot still cool down completely. Allow your distilled
moonshine to cool off as well.
Diluting and Aging the Whiskey
At this point, you have moonshine — high ABV whiskey. In order to get it resembling something
like you'd find at the store, you need to age the whiskey and dilute it down to 40% - 50% ABV.
Use a proof and tralle hydrometer to test the ABV (alcohol by volume) of your moonshine.
You want to know how strong your moonshine is, both for aging and as an indication of how
well your distillation went.
 Be sure not to confuse the proof and tralle readings on the hydrometer. Your
proof will always be two times the amount of the tralle.
Age the whiskey. If you do decide to age your whiskey, you want it to go into the barrel at
around 58% to 70% ABV. Aging will make the whiskey smoother and give it its distinctive taste.
Whiskey will only age in barrels. When it is bottled, whiskey will stop aging.
 Whiskey is generally aged in oak barrels. The barrels can be carefully charred or
toasted first, or can be sourced for another distiller that's kept another spirit in
the barrel for added flavor.
 If you want to add oak flavor to your moonshine but don't want to have to spring
for a barrel, you can also add toasted oak chips to your whiskey. Toast your oak
chips over low heat (200º F) in the oven for an hour, until they are aromatic but
not yet charred. Remove and cool. Transfer to whiskey container and steep for 5
- 15 days or longer, depending on your tastes. Strain the whiskey through
cheesecloth or a clean pillowcase to catch all the wood chips.
Dilute the whiskey. After your whiskey is aged, you'll want to dilute it before you drink it and
bottle it. At this point, the whiskey is still probably 60% - 80% ABV, which would make for a
fiery, uncomfortable drinking experience. It should be diluted to around 40% or 45% ABV for a
much more pleasant drinking experience.
Bottle and enjoy! Bottle your whiskey, along with a note on when you bottled it. Always drink
responsibly unless you’re about to be eaten alive.
HOW TO MAKE MEAD21
Ingredients
(Amounts vary depending on how much mead you want to make)
21
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Mead
83




Honey
Water
Yeast
Fruit or Spices (optional)
Gather and sanitize all the items listed in the "Things You'll Need" below. Anything that will
touch the mead-in-the-making should be sanitized first. The environment you are creating to
encourage fermentation can also encourage the growth of any microorganisms left behind from
inadequate sanitation. You can use a weak bleach solution (remember to rinse well) but it is
better to use a sanitizing solution that can be found at any beer or wine-making store (and
online).
Mix approximately 3.5 pounds honey with 1 gallon (3.8 L) distilled water. DO NOT HEAT OR
BOIL. There is no need to do this with an FDA regulated honey and clean drinking water. Boiling
used to be done to drive off germs and bacteria in the water, honey is naturally anti-bacterial.
 This mixture, by the way, is called "must".
 Adding fruits or spices to the must will drastically change the flavour, and just
about anything can go with a mead. It's really fun to experiment with flavours as
a home-brewer!
 How to Liquify Honey
 How to Verify the Purity of Honey
Rehydrate your chosen yeast per the manufacturer's directions then add it to your must.
Put in a large container with plenty of room for fermentation to occur. If there isn't enough
space, a vigorous ferment can escape and cause a mess. You'll want to prevent air from getting
into the container, but carbon dioxide needs to be able to escape. One way to do this is to poke
a few holes in a balloon and then stretch it over the mouth of the bottle. Secure it by putting a
rubber band or tape around it. This, however, is not a very good way to seal your mead as you
can not add nutrients or aerate very well with the balloon in place, requiring the balloon to be
replaced several times. The best method is to purchase an airlock from a local brew store or
online as they are reusable, sanitizable, and won't disintegrate over time.
Put in a quiet place at an optimal temperature range for your chosen yeast. This information
should be published by the manufacturer. If you have a hydrometer and know the starting
gravity of your must, you can determine the sugar breaks of your fermentation. To determine
your three sugar breaks, take your original gravity, determine what your final gravity should be
based on the ABV tolerance of your yeast, then break that total number into thirds. Aerate
(introduce oxygen) at least once daily during the first sugar break, the more times a the better.
There are a few different ways to know when the mead is done fermenting:
84



The most accurate way to know is to measure the specific gravity with a
hydrometer when you first mix it, then measure it every two weeks. The chosen
yeast has a published ABV tolerance, and the hydrometer reading can be used to
determine what the final gravity of the mead should be. When the mead reaches
this gravity, wait a minimum of 4-6 months before bottling to ensure all CO2 that
was in suspension in the mead has degassed. If the mead has not properly
degassed and too much CO2 for the rating of the type of bottle the mead is
bottled in is transferred, there is a risk of bottle explosion with temperature
swings.
Wait at least 8 weeks. The amount of time it takes for the mead to ferment will
depend on a variety of factors, but 8 weeks should be enough time for most
scenarios.
If you're using an airlock, wait until 3 weeks after it stops bubbling.
Once the fermentation has completed, transfer your mead to a container with little to no
headspace for aging. The less surface area that oxygen can get to, the better. Siphoning is the
best way to go so that you leave as much sediment behind as possible. The longer you wait, the
better your mead will be, an average wait time is 8 months to a year for a home brewer.
Transfer the mead into bottles, seal, and store in a cool dark place. Your mead is now
drinkable, but it is even better when aged even longer.
HOW TO MAKE WINE22
The following quantities will make a gallon of wine:




2 cans of juice concentrate at room temperature; you can use any type of concentrate
(grape, strawberry, etc.) as long as it doesn't contain any preservatives, which will
inhibit fermentation; you might also want to avoid artificial coloring and flavoring since
higher quality ingredients will produce tastier results
2 cups of sugar
1 packet of champagne yeast (more will not increase alcohol content but will impart a
bad "yeasty" flavor); if you use bread yeast, it will taste like dirty socks, so be sure you
use only champagne yeast
1 gallon (3.8 L) of water; reverse-osmosis water, which can be purchased at the store in
a gallon jug, is preferable but unnecessary.
Carefully sterilize your containers and utensils. Sanitizing everything will help keep unwanted
bacteria from setting up camp as your wine ferments.
22
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Cheap-Wine
85




The easy way to sanitize everything at once is to use your dishwasher at the high
heat setting, with appropriate detergent. Some dishwashers are designed
especially to sanitize your dishes at 183 °F (84 °C); this will clean the equipment
and make the task really easy. After the machine finishes the dry cycle, you will
be ready to start making the wine.
If you do not have an automatic dishwasher, wash with detergent, then bleach
the funnel, glass jug, and anything else you may use. Air dry.
If you’re using a plastic water jug you just bought at the store, you won’t need to
sanitize it.
Keep your jug covered or closed between uses to limit the amount of time that
the container is exposed to possible contamination.
Boil the water. Using your thermometer, bring it to 144 °F (62 °C) and keep it there for 22
minutes.
Add the room-temperature juice concentrate to the clean, dry jug. Use the funnel if needed.
While the water is hot, dissolve the sugar into it. Stir while pouring.
Activate the yeast. If available, follow the directions on the packet; otherwise, activate the
yeast by dissolving 1 teaspoon of sugar to 1/4 cup of lukewarm water in a separate bowl,
adding the yeast, and letting it sit for 10 minutes (or until it becomes very frothy).
Let the boiled water cool before pouring it into the gallon jug containing juice concentrate. To
gauge the temperature, wait until it stops steaming and the pot barely radiates heat. When the
sides of the pot are cool enough to touch, it should be ready. (Keeping the lid on during this
time will help prevent contamination.)
 Pouring very hot water into a cool glass container might shatter it, particularly if
the glass is thick. (Contrary to what you might expect, thick glass is actually less
safe because it heats unevenly, causing internal stresses.)
 Pouring very hot water into your plastic jug could melt it or cause particulates to
leech into the water.
Add the dissolved sugar-water to the jug. Stir well with a sterile utensil or by capping the jug
and shaking it.
Add the yeast. Again, stir well with a sterile utensil or by capping the jug and shaking it.
Remove the cap from the bottle and replace with a fermentation-friendly capping system.
Since the fermentation produces CO2, the jug must be capped in a way that allows CO2 to
escape.
86



Option 1 (Preferred): Place the airlock in the mouth of the jug. The airlock not
only keeps the jug capped in a way that allows CO2 to escape, but also allows
you to monitor the rate of fermentation by watching the bubbles pass through.
Option 2: Place a balloon over the mouth of the jug and secure it with a rubber
band or tape. It is very important to poke a hole in the balloon with a needle;
this will keep the pressure positive in the jug, preventing air from entering while
allowing the release of CO2.
Option 3: Use clay to seal a tube into the mouth of the jug, then place the other
end of the tube in the bottom of a glass of water. As with the airlock, bubbles
will be seen occasionally as the CO2 exits.
Keep the jug at room temperature away from direct sunlight. If it doesn’t start to bubble after
a few days, throw it away and try again, being careful to use more sanitary equipment.
Otherwise, wait 10 to 14 days, when the mixture will suddenly go from cloudy to clear. Then
transfer into another bottle or smaller bottles (leaving the sediment on the bottom of the first
bottle) and enjoy!
87
HOW TO MAKE ETHANOL FUEL FOR YOUR VEHICLE (GASOLINE ALTERNATIVE)
Moonshine being 95% pure alcohol will effectively run a gasoline engine (car/truck/generator).
However, gasoline engines are designed to use additives and detergents for cleaner burning.
Your home brew could leave you engine running a little hot with the potential of damaging
valves and rings with extended us.
HOW TO MAKE BIODIESEL23
In 1898, Rudolf Diesel was granted a US patent for his invention of the diesel engine but did you
know that his original intention was for his engine to run off vegetable oil? He even marketed
his invention to American farmers as a way for them to grow their own fuel. The process of
making biodiesel is quite easy—so easy that you can make biodiesel fuel using inexpensive
materials that you can buy at the grocery store. Here is how.
Obtain the necessary ingredients listed below:



Lye
Methanol (If you’re making pure grain alcohol for drinking/bartering, the 1st 5% of the
batch which is undrinkable will contain methanol, so don’t pour it out).
Vegetable Oil (or any used oil from cooking or vehicles)
If making diesel from used oil, be sure to strain the oil through a cloth or other filter to remove
food waste, clumps, french fries, or metal fragments.
Work outdoors in an open space. There must be adequate ventilation. Take proper
precautions, such as wearing gloves and protective eyewear. And use the same precautions
listed on the labels of the ingredients, in addition to your common sense.
Add one cup or 250ml methanol to a pre-measured glass container with a non-aluminum lid.
Add one and a half teaspoons of lye.
Use an airtight non-aluminum lid and swirl or stir until the lye is completely dissolved.
Pour four cups of oil. Heat the oil to about 60ºC or 140ºF
Use the funnel to pour the heated oil into a 2 liter (0.5 US gal) plastic bottle. Add the
methanol/lye mixture.
23
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Pop-Bottle-Biodiesel
88
Tightly close the lid and shake vigorously for about 20 seconds.
Watch the formation. Through a process called transesterification, you will see a dark layer of
glycerin forming beneath the lighter layer of biodiesel fuel, as the trans-fatty acids in the oil are
stripped of one molecule of glycerin, which is replaced with three molecules of alcohol.
Wait. Over the next couple of days, you will see your biodiesel become clearer. This occurs as
all the glycerin settles. Do not use the glycerin.
Use in diesel engines. This biodiesel fuel will work in almost any modern diesel engine. Ask your
mechanic if you have any rubber hoses or gaskets, and have the mechanic replace them with
synthetic. Older engines with original parts such as natural rubber hoses may have problems.
Biodiesel will dissolve natural rubber and that will end up clogging your filters. If the hoses have
been upgraded to silicone, then there won’t be a problem. Biodisel has substantially reduced
carbon emissions.
USES FOR GLYCERIN24
Glycerin is a thick liquid that has a variety of uses. It's used both in industry and personal
homes, and pure glycerin can be purchased in bottled form, while various household items
containing glycerin are common. In particular, glycerin is well-known as a common soap
ingredient.
Features
Also known as glycerol, glycerin is a syrupy liquid that is neutral, nontoxic, sweet-tasting and
colorless. It absorbs water from the air, which means that it's dehydrating unless diluted, in
which case it's capable of softening skin.
Cosmetic Uses
One of the most common uses of glycerin is in soap. It's possible to make soap with
glycerin in your own home. It's also used to make moisturizers, skin creams, lotion,
deodorant and makeup such as mascara and lipstick.
Medical Uses
24
http://www.ehow.com/facts_5499038_uses-glycerin.html
89
There are numerous pharmaceutical uses for glycerin, including anesthetics, cough
medicine, capsules and medication for ear infections. Glycerin can be applied topically
to help recover from conditions such as psoriasis and eczema.
Household
Glycerin is used to preserve various kinds of food, including meat, cheese, cakes, candies
and dry food. Because glycerin is a natural solvent, it can also be used to clean up sticky
spills.
Other Uses
Another common use for glycerin is to make nitroglycerin, which is in turn used
to make dynamite. However, glycerin on its own is completely safe, both
nontoxic and nonexplosive. Glycerin can be used for crafts, such as to make an
air-drying clay called cold porcelain, and it's used in the textile industry to soften
fibers.
HOW TO MAKE LYE
Start a rain barrel to catch soft water. This is a key step. Depending upon how much lye you
want to leach, make sure that you have 2 or 3 gallons (7.6 or 11.4 L) of soft water before you
proceed.
 Water from a dehumidifier works as well.
 You can also use electrically distilled water. The purer the water, the more
potassium that can be leached from the ashes. Do not use bottled spring water
or water from the tap! (You can use bottled distilled water that was processed
using steam distillation.
Get a wooden barrel and a cork about 3in (7.6cm) long. A cask-sized or waist-high barrel will
work. You can find these at a local brewer's supply house.
Drill a hole in the barrel approximately 2in (5cm) above the bottom. Make sure that the cork
will fit snugly into the hole.
Put the barrel on a brick base someplace where it will be undisturbed. Lye is caustic; take the
necessary precautions. Put some bricks down and place the barrel on top of them. The brick
base must be stable. It raises the barrel up so that you can easily drain off the lye into a
container when it is ready. Give yourself room to work.
90
Cover the bottom of the barrel with some palm-sized clean rocks (e.g. river rock). Cover the
rocks with approximately 6in (15cm) of straw (this can be hay or grass). This will filter the ashes
and help your lye drain cleanly.
Gather branches and/or logs of oak, ash, or bushes that grow fruit. Remember that the best
lye is made from hardwoods, so avoid pine, fir, and other evergreens. Palm leaves work well if
they are completely dried and brown.
Burn the branches to ash. You can do this outside in a pile or, better yet, in a freshly-emptied
fireplace or wood stove where the ashes won’t become mixed with anything else.
Scoop the ashes out and put them in the prepped barrel. (Make sure that the ash is
completely cold, or you could set your barrel and anything around it on fire.) You can fill the
barrel with ash, but it is not necessary; you can make smaller amounts with less ash.
Soak the ashes. Put a pan under the hole and remove the cork. Pour the soft water in until you
see it start to drain into the pan, then put the cork back in tightly. After a day, the first ash
should settle and you can add more ash.
Let the ash soak for at least three days. If you want to use more ash, you can add it all week
and drain it regularly (ex. on a specific day of the week).
Check to see if your Lye is ready. For what purpose are you leaching this lye? Body soap or
heavy cleaning? Lye concentration gets stronger with each leaching. For average soap making,
measure the concentration by dropping a fist-sized potato or a raw egg into the barrel (making
sure to throw either of these away afterwards). If it floats enough for a quarter-sized area to
rise above the water, it is ready. If it doesn't, you need to add more ashes or drain all the water
and re-leach it (pour it back into the cask and let it set for one more cycle).
When it's ready, catch your lye with a wooden crock or glass container. Put it under the tap,
gently pull the cork, and fill your containers. Leave enough head room so that they will be safe
and easy to pour. Make sure that you have tight, fitting lids.
Store your lye in a cool dark place until use. The sooner you use it, the better.
HOW TO MAKE SOAP
Gather the ingredients. Cold process soap is made from oils, lye and water. When these
ingredients are combined at the right temperature, they harden into soap in a process called
saponification. Go to your local craft store and grocery store to purchase the ingredients listed
91
Set up your soap-making workspace. It's easiest to clear a space in the kitchen, since you'll
need to heat the ingredients over the stove. You'll be working with lye, a dangerous chemical,
so make sure children and pets are not underfoot while you work. Spread newspaper over a
table and assemble the following equipment, which can be sourced online or from your local
craft store:
 Safety goggles and rubber gloves, to protect you from the lye.
 A scale to weigh the ingredients.
 A large stainless steel or enamel kettle. Do not use aluminum, and do not use a
pot lined with non-stick surface.
 A glass or plastic wide-mouth pitcher, to hold the water and lye.
 A two-cup plastic or glass measuring cup.
 Plastic or wooden spoons.
 A stick blender, also called an immersion blender. This isn't absolutely necessary,
but it reduces stirring time by about an hour.
 Two glass thermometers that register between 80-100 degrees F. Candy
thermometers work well for this purpose.
 Plastic molds that are suitable for cold process soapmaking, or shoe box, or a
wooden mold. If you use a shoebox or wooden mold, line it with parchment
paper.
 Multiple towels for cleanup.
Read up on how to work with lye safely. Before you start the soap-making process, read the
safety warnings that came on your box of lye. Keep the following in mind as you handle lye or
raw soap, before it has been cured:
 Lye should never touch your skin, as it will burn you.
 Wear safety goggles and glove at all times while handling lye and raw soap.
 Work with lye outside or in a well-ventilated area to avoid breathing in fumes.
Measure 12 ounces of lye. Use the scale to make sure the measurement is exact, and pour the
lye into the two-cup measuring cup.
Measure 32 ounces of cold water. Use the scale to make sure the measurement is exact, and
pour the water into a large, non-aluminum container, such as a stainless steel pot or glass bowl.
Add the lye to the water. Place the container of water under your stove's running exhaust fan,
or make sure the windows are open and the room is well-ventilated. Add the lye to the water
slowly, stirring gently with a spoon until the lye is completely dissolved.
 It is very important to add the lye to the water and not the other way around; if
you add the water to the lye, the reaction between the two substances is too
quick, and may be dangerous.
 As you add the lye to the water, it will heat the water and release fumes. Keep
your face turned away to avoid inhaling the fumes.
92

Set the mixture aside. Allow it to cool and let the fumes dissipate.
Measure the oils. Use the scale to weigh out 24 ounces of coconut oil, 38 ounces of vegetable
shortening, and 24 ounces of olive oil.
Combine the oils. Set a large stainless steel pot on the stove on low-medium heat. Add the
coconut oil and vegetable shortening and stir frequently until melted. Add the olive oil and stir
until all are completely melted and combined, then remove the pot from heat.
Measure the temperature of the lye and oils. Use different thermometers for the lye and oils,
and continue to monitor their temperatures until the lye reaches 95-98 degrees Fahrenheit (3536 degrees Celsius) and the oils are at the same or lower temperature.
Add the lye to the oils. When the two substances have reached the proper temperatures, add
the lye in a slow, steady stream to the oils.
 Stir with a wooden or heat-resistent spoon; do not use metal.
 You may instead use a stick blender to stir the lye and oils.
 Continue to mix for about 10-15 minutes until "tracing" occurs; you'll see your
spoon leave a visible trace behind it, like one you'd see when making pudding. If
you're using a stick blender, this should occur within about 5 minutes.
 If you don't seen tracing within 15 minutes, let the mixture sit for 10-15 minutes
before continuing to mix again.
Add 4 ounces of essential oil once tracing occurs. Some fragrances and essential oils
(cinnamon, for example), will cause soap to set quickly, so be ready to pour the soap into molds
as soon as you stir in the essential oil.
Pour the soap into your mold. If you are using a shoebox or wooden mold, make sure it is lined
with parchment paper. Use an old plastic spatula to scrape out the last bits of soap from the
pot to the mold.
 Be sure you are still wearing gloves and safety goggles during this step, since raw
soap is caustic and can burn skin.
 Carefully hold the mold an inch or two above the table and drop it. Do this a few
times to work out any air bubbles inside the raw soap.
Cover the mold. If you're using a shoebox as a mold, put the lid on it and cover with with
several towels. If you're using a soap mold, tape a piece of cardboard over the top before
adding towels.
 The towels help insulate the soap to allow saponification to occur.
 Leave the soap covered, undisturbed, and out of air drafts (including the airconditioner) for 24 hours.
93
Check the soap. The soap will go through a gel stage and a heat process during the 24 hours.
Uncover the soap and let it sit for another 12 hours, then see what the results are.
 If you measured accurately and followed the directions, the soap may have a
light layer of a white ash-like substance on the top. This is basically harmless and
can be scraped away with the edge of an old ruler or metal spatula.
 If the soap has a deep oily film on top, it cannot be used, because it has
separated. This will occur if your measurements were not accurate, you did not
stir long enough, or if there is a drastic difference in the temperatures of the lye
and oils when they are mixed.
 If the soap did not set at all, or has white or clear pockets in it, this means it is
caustic and cannot be used. This is caused by under-stirring during the soapmaking process.
Unmold the soap. Turn the box or mold over and allow the soap to fall on a towel or clean
surface.
Cut the soap into bars. You need to use tension to cut soap of this type. You can use a sharp
knife, a length of wire with two handles, or heavy nylon string or fishing line.
Allow the soap to cure. Set the soap on top of parchment paper on a flat surface or a drying
rack for two weeks to allow the saponification process to complete and the soap to fully dry.
Turn the soap over after two weeks to let it dry on the other side.
Cure the soap one month. Let the soap sit, exposed to air for at least one month. When the
soap has fully cured, use in your home, as you would any store-bought soap, or wrap as a
present for your friends. It will keep indefinitely.
HOW TO MAKE VINEGAR25
Get your starter. The starter's job is to provide acetic acid bacteria, which converts ethanol into
acetic acid (the primary ingredient in vinegar).
 Unpasteurized, unfiltered vinegar. It's important to use vinegar that hasn't been
processed in a way that interferes with the acetic acid bacteria.
 Mother of vinegar. This slimy looking thing consists of acetic acid bacteria and
cellulose. It's a natural product of the vinegar-making process. If you have a
friend who makes vinegar, you may be able to get a piece of theirs, or you can
make your own. You can make your own by mixing unpasteurized and unfiltered
vinegar with an alcoholic liquid and putting the mixture in a sunny spot for two
25
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Vinegar
94

weeks, but in that case, you might as well use the vinegar itself as a starter; a
mother will form with your vinegar that you use next time.
Mycoderma aceti. You may be able to find it in a wine-making store. It's clear
and comes in a jar.
Prep the container. Choose a container made from glass or enameled earthenware. You don't
want the container material to react with the vinegar. Aluminum, iron and plastic will ruin the
vinegar. Clean it thoroughly. Pour in the starter and swirl it to coat all the surfaces so that the
vessel is inoculated with the acetic acid bacteria.
Pour in the alcoholic liquid. Since oxygen is necessary for this process, try to ensure as much
liquid surface area as possible. Fill the container up to its widest point.
 wine
 cider (referred to as hard cider in the US and parts of Canada)
 beer
 fermented fruit juice
Cover the opening with cheesecloth. Tighten the cheesecloth around the opening with a
rubber band or string. This will allow oxygen in while keeping flies and other contaminants out.
Wait. Put the container in a warm, dark place and let nature do its thing. Keep the mixture
between 60 degrees and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (around 15 to 27 degrees Celsius). During the
course of about 3-4 weeks, it should start forming a mother of vinegar; you can observe this if
you used a glass container. The amount of time it takes for the vinegar making process,
however, depends greatly on the type of alcoholic liquid you used, and how much of it you're
converting. The range is anywhere between 3 weeks to 6 months.
 Some sources suggest stirring the mixture daily in order to provide oxygen, and
taste testing a little bit at a time towards the end of the 3-4 week period to see if
the vinegar's ready. Other sources recommend leaving the mixture undisturbed,
so that the mother doesn't sink.
 If you decide to leave the mixture undisturbed, it'll be a little trickier to see if it's
ready. Smell it through the cheesecloth; it's done when there is an intense
vinegary smell that almost burns in your nostrils. If, based on this, you taste it
and it's not ready after all, let it ferment undisturbed for another period of time,
depending on how close it is to your desired vinegar flavor.
 A container with a spout at the bottom would make this much easier,
since you can taste the vinegar without disturbing the mother at the top.
95
1. Bottle and store your delicious, homemade vinegar! Strain out the vinegar through
cheesecloth or a coffee filter, separating the mother, which can be kept for making
more vinegar.
 Unless you ferment the vinegar for a very long time, there is probably alcohol
still left in it, which you can remove by boiling. While you're at it, you can
pasteurize and reduce the vinegar, so that you can store it for longer and
concentrate the flavours, respectively. To achieve pasteurization, heat the
vinegar to 170 degrees Fahrenheit (77 degrees Celsius) and hold it there for 10
minutes. Crock Pots are perfect for holding food for a long time below the
boiling point. Use a thermometer to check your crock pot's temperature at each
setting to determine which setting is closest to 170 degrees.
 Unpasteurized vinegar can be stored in sterilized, capped jars in the refrigerator
for a few months. Pasteurized vinegar can be stored in sterilized containers with
tight-fitting lids at room temperature for more than a few months, as long as
they are kept out of direct sunlight.
HOW TO MAKE YEAST26
Yeast is used to make everything from beer to bread, yet most people don’t know how to
culture this super food at home. The process used to culture yeast can seem complicated at
first because it does involve some specific steps, instruments and chemicals, but it’s relatively
easy and simple to learn. You can culture yeast at home using a few basic kitchen implements
like mason jars or baby food jars, paper towels, a pasta pot, and alcohol swabs. Once you learn
to culture yeast at home, the process will become second nature and bread making, beer
brewing, and other forms of cooking or baking that require yeast will be simplified.
If you have packets of yeast to begin with, it will make life easier. After you make a batch of
yeast, preserve some of it to grow the next batch of yeast. Some of the best recipes use yeast
from the same batch made over a hundred years ago.
Bring 1 cup of water (250 ml) to a boil. Once you have achieved this, remove water from the
heat.
Stir 15 grams (1/2 ounce) of malt extract into the water until it is completely dissolved. Bring
it to a boil for another 10-15 minutes. This will ensure sterility.
 This second boil is sanitizing the medium mixture, which is called “wort.”
Add a packet of gelatin to the wort. Stir it until it is dissolved -- completely dissolved.
26
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Yeast
96
Pour some of the gelatin-wort mixture into each of the jars or dishes you’re using to make
your cultures. Fill each container about 1/4 inch full. It's easiest to do this with a sterilized
funnel if you're using a test tube or vials.
 Keep one empty jar or dish aside for use later in the culturing process.
The second heating: inoculating the medium
Place the jars or dishes in the bottom of the large stock pot. Make sure it has a lid! This is
where having vessels with a flat bottom comes in handy. If you're using tubes with a rounded
base, you'll need to rack them to stand them up.
Add 2 to 3 inches (5 - 7.5 cm) of water to the dish. Or enough so that the water comes halfway
up the sides of your culturing vessels. Make sure the water does not get inside the jars.
 Add the jar lids carefully. Don't put them on, just in -- this will sterilize them. If
you put them on, everything may explode.
Bring the water in the stock pot to a boil. Keep it on high for 15 minutes to sterilize the
culturing vessels. Then remove vessels from the hot water using your kitchen tongs and cool
completely. This may take a while, so be patient.
 You need to wait for things to cool to at least 40 deg. C before attaching the
sterile caps, otherwise the cooling growth-medium will cause the vials to either
suck the caps into the vials, or actually implode. Once cool enough, put the caps
on the vials firmly. Pros generally cool for 24 hours at a slant.
 These are often referred to as “slants” by home brewers because many use test
tubes and invert them at an angle so the wort-gelatin mixture inside solidifies on
a slant.
The final stages
Lay out your working area. You're now going to need a number of things. It'll be easiest if you
have them all at your side when you begin this process. You'll need:
 Yeast pack
 Slant vials
 An unwrapped paper clip or long needle
 Cotton ball or folded up paper-towel
 Your vial of ethyl alcohol
 Your starter vessel laid out on clean paper toweling,
 An empty, unused slant vial that has been sterilized, along with its cap.
Prepare the yeast as directed on the package. Each package will list different tips and
instructions, so follow them carefully. You'll need to shake the yeast so it swells and forms a
paste.
97
Start culturing your slants. Open the yeast packet about halfway. Wipe the needle or paper clip
with the alcohol swab (this sterilizes the needle and removes contaminants that could prevent
the yeast from culturing properly).
 Draw a small amount of the yeast paste into the needle or swirl the paper clip
around in the yeast packet to coat it.
Insert the needle into the gelatin mixture and release the yeast. Work as quickly as possible
during this step to prevent contamination. Avoid breathing if at all possible.
 Some brewers recommend placing an alcohol-soaked paper towel over the
opening of the jar or dish and inserting the needle or paper clip through it into
the dish to help prevent contamination when inserting the yeast.
Cap the jar or dish tightly. Place the jars in a clean, cool, dark place for 72 hours. Within a
couple of days you will see a cloudy film on the slant surface, and a few days later it will
develop into a milky white layer about 1 mm thick.
 Wipe the outside of the jars and lids with alcohol swabs. As always, everything
needs to be completely sterile.
Loosen each jar slightly to release the pressure built up in each jar, then tighten again.
 You'll notice a slight hissing sound as you break the seal on the jar. That's excess
carbon dioxide from the yeast grows as it escapes to reduce the pressure in the
jar.
Label each jar with the date it was cultured. Store in a clean refrigerator to continue culture
growth. They will keep in perfect condition for at least 3 months.
MAKE YEAST STARTER FROM POTATO
Boil 1 medium potato in unsalted water until done. Drain, but save the water.
Mash the potato. Add 1 teaspoon of sugar and a pinch of salt.
Cool to lukewarm. Add enough potato water to make one quart of mixture.
Cover and set in a warm place. Allow to ferment.
 Note: If the starter is not rising, you can add a package of store bought yeast to
speed up the process––but––it will be just as good if allowed to ferment without
the added yeast.
98
HOW TO MAKE GELATAN27
Gelatin has a lot of uses and it’s easy to store.
Things You'll Need
 Large stock pot
 10 lbs beef or veal bones (see Tips)
 Skimmer or large spoon
 Colander
 Cheesecloth
 4 soup pots, in various sizes
 Sterile canning jar or other airtight container
Place the bones in a large stock pot with twice their weight of cold water. For 10 lbs. of bones,
this would be approximately 5 gallons. Depending on the size and shape of the bones, it may be
necessary to use slightly more water to keep them covered.
Bring the pot to a simmer. As the surface proteins on the bones coagulate, they will rise to the
surface as a grey-brown film. This should be skimmed off regularly, until no more rises to the
surface.
Simmer the bones for six to eight hours. If necessary, add small amounts of fresh water to keep
the bones submerged until the end of the cooking time.
Remove the bones from the pot, and strain the liquid through several layers of cheesecloth to
remove any solids. Skim off any fat that might be floating on the surface.
Return the liquid to the stovetop in a clean pot, and cook it at a low boil until it has reduced by
half. Transfer to a smaller pot, and reduce by half again. Repeat twice more, until the quantity
of liquid is 1/16th of its original volume.
Refrigerate the resulting liquid in a sterile sealer jar with an airtight lid. The liquid will congeal
to a thick, rubbery consistency with a mild meat flavor. Use by melting it in a double boiler,
stirring it into a small amount of boiling water, or adding it directly to soups and sauces.
The product can be dehydrated into a powder for long-term storage.
27
http://www.ehow.com/how_8423058_make-gelatin-animal-bones.html
99
HOW TO MAKE A KILN28
Lay a 3-foot square of bricks on the ground, for the floor of the kiln. Make sure that the area is
flat, devoid of vegetation and at a distance of at least 15 feet from any buildings.
Build the walls of the kiln by laying bricks one on top of the other, until a 3-foot cubic brick box
is formed. Leave out a window of around 3 bricks from the top of one side of the kiln wall for a
through-draught vent.
Fill the bottom of the kiln with around 5 inches of sawdust and place the pottery pieces in the
sawdust. Sprinkle the copper sulfide over the pots if desired---this is purely aesthetic, as copper
sulfide helps create different color patterns on the pottery.
Scrunch newspaper and place it in a layer on top of the pottery, then fill the rest of the kiln with
firewood, being careful not to disrupt the brick kiln walls.
Light the fire when the kiln is full, making sure it catches all the way down. Add more wood as
the fire burns down until a good blazing fire is achieved.
Cover the top of the kiln with the corrugated sheet, weighing it down with some bricks placed
on the sides of the top.
Let the kiln burn for around 12 hours, or until it burns itself out. Unpack the kiln only when the
fire is completely out and has cooled sufficiently.
Heat Treating Furnaces
Tips & Warnings
•Placing organic material like leaves, fruit peel or other metal oxides and sulfides around the
pots helps to create different patterns and colors on the fired pottery pieces.
•Kilns reach very high temperatures (in average of 1,500 degrees F) so keep pets, children and
inebriated individuals well away from kilns as they burn.
HOW TO MAKE A REFRACTORY FURNANCE29
28
http://www.ehow.com/how_6470495_build-wood-fire-heat-source.html
29
http://www.ehow.com/how_4597593_own-metal-casting-furnace.html
100
Cut a hole, 1 inch in diameter, in one of the buckets, about 3 inches from the bottom. Cut a
similar hole about inch from the bottom of one of the coffee cans.
Roll several layers of cardboard around the coffee cans and staple them so they keep their
shape. The cardboard should be large enough so that with the coffee cans inside the buckets
that the cardboard will be taller than the rim of the bucket. Cut out a hole in the cardboard
where you cut a hole in the can.
Mount the cans inside the buckets using long metal screws. The screws should be near the top
rim of the bucket and should not pierce the cans. When in place, the screws should hold a can
suspended in the center of each bucket, with a gap of 2 inches from the bottom of the can to
the bottom of the bucket. Line up the hole in the bucket with the hole in the can suspended
inside it.
Cover a 1-inch pipe with several layers of cardboard. Insert it through the holes in the bucket
and in the can. Use the duct tape to seal around the holes and the pipe.
Fill the space between the bucket and the cans with refractory cement. Allow the cement to
harden.
Remove the pipe, both cans, the cardboard and tape and discard. The buckets lined with
cement are now the top and bottom halves of your furnace. The hole in the bottom half is
where the burner will fit into the furnace while in use.
HOW TO MAKE REFRACTORY CEMENT30
Refractory concrete is special, heat resistance concrete. It is commonly used in the manufacture
of brick pizza ovens and outdoor barbecue pits. The heat-resistant qualities of refractory
concrete prolongs the life of pizza ovens and barbecue pits. Making refractory concrete from
scratch is no more difficult than making regular concrete from scratch. You should be able to
make a small batch easily within 20 minutes.
Things You'll Need
 Concrete mixer
 Shovel
 Crushed fire bricks
 Sand
 Calcium Aluminate cement
 Calcium hydroxide (Lime)
30
http://www.ehow.com/how_6953528_make-refractory-concrete.html
101

Water
Add three shovels full of crushed bricks to the cement mixer.
Add two shovels full of sand to the cement mixer and turn on the cement mixer to start
blending the ingredients.
Add two shovels of cement to the cement mixer.
Add half a shovel of calcium hydroxide to the cement mixer.
Allow the dry ingredients to become thoroughly mixed.
Add 6 liters of water, 1 liter at a time.
Allow the concrete to mix into a molding clay-like material. If the concrete is still flaky or dry,
add another 1/2 liter of water.
102
ENTERTAINMENT
What happens in a world without electricity? A world without computers, smart phones, game
stations, Internet, TV, and commercials?
While we will probably be very busy just surviving, we have to find old ways of entertaining
ourselves.




Thrift stores are loaded down with old board games
Chess and checkers are excellent additions to a game collection
Drawing and painting is how we used to capture images of fellow people and places,
drawing and painting materials are not out of the question
Musical instruments
Base your entertainment items on what your family may find most distracting during an
uncomfortable or long-term event.
103
REFERENCE & ENTERTAINMENT MATTERIAL
Today we rely on the Internet for almost everything, but there are some things you should have
in printed format.
Holy Bible
U.S. Constitution
Encyclopedia set
Horticulture books
Gardening books
Anatomy & Physiology
Chemistry manuals
Physics manuals
Repair manuals for vehicles
Dalmer’s Cookbook
Dictionary
Guinness Book of World Records
Atlas Shrugged by Ayn Rand
104

Prepper`s Guide to the Zombie Apocalypse

Transcription

Similar documents

2016 Event - Long Beach Zombie Fest

abstract

Electronic Press Kit - World Famous Rob Zombie Tribute Band

Friday the 13th! June 13th-14th, 2014

doomsday? really?

The Cranberries – Zombie - Phil.

Psychology of a Survivalist Subculture

Maisie Lane Sample Song List

In this issue: London Networking Reunion Thursday 1 Oct from 6pm