HID/Halogen Projector Headlamps

HID/Halogen Projector Headlamps
1997-2004 Corvette
Directed Energy, Inc.
Directed Energy, Inc.
Congratulations on your purchase of the most innovative headlight system available for the C5
Corvette. Your new, HID projector headlamps will give your Corvette an updated, European
look while adding considerably brighter output.
Installation is straightforward and is completely reversible, should you choose to remove your
Sun Guns lighting system in the future.
Tools Required
10mm wrench, 10mm socket (preferably
deep), 8mm wrench, Torx 15 driver, Torx 20
driver, small Phillips screwdriver
Sun Guns Kit Contents
Standard Parts Included
2 HID ballasts
2 High & low-beam fully-adjustable projector
headlamps mounted to aluminum frames
2 Carbon fiber shrouds (optional)
2 Headlamp stop brackets (patent pending)
4 Stabilizing bars (2 thin, 2 thick)
2 HID low-beam projector bulbs
1 Wiring harness
Ballasts (2)
Projector Headlamp Assemblies (2)
replacing hid bulbs
You can remove the ancillary wires from the
HID bulb harnesses. Carefully cut through
the rubber grommet to remove the red and
black spaded wires that terminate in a male
weather tight connector (Fig. A). These wires
aren’t needed, but you can save them for future projects.
Replace the bulbs with the HID bulbs supplied.
Make sure the bulbs are properly seated and
snugly clipped in.
Shrouds (Optional, 2)
Stabilizer Bars, Thin (2)
Stop Brackets (2)
HID Low-Beam Bulb (2)
Stabilizer Bars, Thick (2)
Wiring Harness
removing stock headlamps
Remove black
& red wires
1. Open your Corvette’s hood.
2. Disconnect the negative (black) cable
from your battery.
3. Starting on the driver’s (left) side, remove
the two screws at the back of the headlamp
cover using a Torx 15 driver (Fig. B).
4. Raise the headlamp unit by turning the
knob on the back (Fig. C). Later models may
have a rubber boot over the knob - remove
this to access the knob.
5. Remove the three screws that retain the
headlamp bezel to the headlamp cover using
a Torx 15 driver. Pull the bezel forward and
downward to remove it.
6. Remove the remaining two screws that
are holding the headlamp cover on, one on
each side, using a Torx 15 driver.
7. Remove the two pivot pin nuts on the top
of the headlamp unit with a Torx 20 driver
and an 8mm wrench (Fig. D). While supporting the headlamp unit with your hand from underneath, remove the two pivot pin bolts. You
may need to relieve pressure slightly on the
headlamp unit by lowering it via the headlamp
knob. Be careful not to lose the plastic pivot
pin bushings that are on the pivot pin bolts.
Gently lower the headlamp unit while turning
it down to reveal the back side.
Fig. B
Fig. C
8. Remove the pivot pin retaining clip and
slide the pivot pin out, freeing the headlamp
unit (Fig. E).
9. Disconnect the low and high-beam connectors and remove the headlamp unit from
the car.
Fig. D
Fig. A
10.On a workbench or convenient table area,
make sure that the horizontal and vertical adjusting rods work smoothly, as these are necessary in order for proper alignment of your
new projector headlamps. Use a Torx 20
driver inserted into the end of the adjusting
rods to check for proper movement. If these
adjusting rods fail to move the headlamps in
either direction, they must be disassembled
and lubricated.
Fig. E
11.Remove the four bolts that hold the headlamps to the frame, using a 10mm socket
wrench. Remove stock headlamp units from
the frame.
installing sun guns
12.Place projector assembly on frame and
attach to the same holes using a 10mm socket and 10mm wrench. NOTE: The mounting tabs on the Sun Guns assembly can be
placed in front of or behind the stock mounting framework, whichever position allows for
unrestricted adjustability.
Vertical alignment rod
Fig. F
13.The stabilizer bars are used for securing
the back of the headlamp’s mounting base,
minimizing any vibration of the headlamp assemblies. 2 sets of stabilizer bars are included, due to manufacturing differences in the
C5 from year to year. Start by taping (masking
tape) the thin stabilizer bar to the headlamp
base (Fig. G) so that it fits flush with the width
of the base (yellow arrows), and the notch fitting around the protruding, stock screw (red
arrow). The goal is to make sure the stabilizer
bar contacts the plastic tabs of the headlamp
mounting frame when the Sun Guns are fully
open. You may need to replace these with the
thicker bars later on, so don’t use the included
mounting tape yet.
14.Back at the car, remove the two headlamp
motor mounting screws and the one swing
Horizontal alignment rod
Fig. G
Fig. H
arm retaining nut (Fig. H, yellow arrows). The
front screw and middle nut require a 10mm
socket or wrench while the back nut requires
a 10mm wrench and socket, or two 10mm
wrenches. Remove the swing arm. Remove
the lower stop cushion (Fig. H, red arrow).
15.Place the included stop bracket in position and replace the front screw and rear nut
(Fig. I). The rear hole on the stop bracket is
enlarged to allow for up/down adjustment of
the headlamp opening, so position the rear of
the bracket about halfway through its travel
path. Tighten moderately.
Fig. I
16.Replace the swing arm without its retaining nut. Rotate the manual headlamp-raising
knob full cycle, causing the swing arm to
travel its full path. Note that there is adequate ~3-1/4"
~2-1/4"
clearance of the swing arm “ear” and that it
does not rub on the mounting bracket. On
early model C5s the supplied bracket may
not fit flush against the wall due to the rear
mounting bolt not being in the same plane as
Fig. K
the front one. If this is the case and you see
that the ear is contacting the bracket, you will
need to bend the swing arm’s ear out slightly in order to clear the bracket. Repeat this step until
the ear travels smoothly, only stopping at the rear stop (up position) and the front stop (closed
position). Replace the swing arm retaining nut and tighten with fingers only.
17. Replace the headlamp assembly by inserting it into the headlamp cavity, lenses facing
down with one hand underneath to steady it, and sliding the pivot pin into position and through
the swing arm. A towel placed in the bottom of the headlamp cavity will ensure that the lenses
ad bezels don’t get scratched. Don’t install the pin retaining clip at this point (Fig. E).
18. Swing the headlamp assembly up into position and reinsert the two pivot pins from Fig. D,
but don’t replace the pivot pin retaining nuts at this point.
19.With the hood up, replace the headlamp cover and insure that it sits flatly on the headlamp
assembly. Rotate the headlamp knob (Fig. C) so that the headlamp is in its full open position.
20. Measure the opening on each side of the headlamp at the seam where the fascia meets
the fender on the outside, and where the fascia meets the hood on the inside. You are looking
for approximately 3-1/4" on the inside and 2-1/4" on the outside. Cutting out a couple of cardboard “measuring sticks” (Fig. K) at these sizes will help in making adjustments quicker.
21. If your measurements are within 3/16" of these, then you’re almost done with this side.
Proceed to Step #24.
22.Your measurements are off by more than 3/16", so adjustments to the stop bracket should
be made. Remove the headlamp cover and headlamp assembly. Loosen the two stop bracket
mounting screws (Fig. I) and move the back of the stop bracket up or down a slight amount. If
your measurements are less than those shown in Fig. K, move the back of the stop bracket
down slightly. This will allow the headlamp to come up further. A small change here will yield
a greater difference of the headlamp opening amount. Conversely, if your measurements are
more than in Fig. K, moving the back of the stop bracket up will decrease the headlamp opening amount.
23. Repeat Steps #19 through #21.
24.Now it’s time to check the clearance of the stabilizing bar. Manually lower the headlamp
assembly slightly, using the knob, about 3 or 4 turns.
25.Slide a piece of paper betweeen the stabilizer bar and the stabilizer tabs (2 yellow, plastic
tabs at back of the headlamp mounting frame) leaving enough of the paper sticking out so it
can be reached. This is will tell you if the stabilier bar is contacting the stabilizing tabs. If you’re
missing the tabs, it’s not a problem as they are simply a cushion.
26. Manually raise the headlamp assembly back to its fully open position, with paper in place.
Pull on the piece of paper to see if it can be extracted. If it cannot be, then you have the right
stabilizer bar installed - go to Step #27. If the paper is easily removed, you can make small
adjustments by bending the stablizer tabs upward slightly. If the gap between the bar and tabs
can’t be closed by bending the tabs slightly, then you need to replace the thin stabilizer bar
with the thick one. If this is the case, remove the headlamp assembly, go back to Step #13, and
replace the stabilizer bar with the thick one.
27.Completely remove the headlamp cover
and assembly.
28.Remove the stabilizing bar, apply the supplied double-sided tape, and replace it (Fig.
L). Whichever stabilizer bar was used on this
side, will also be used on the other side.
29.Tighten up the stop bracket mounting
screws and the swing arm pivot nut (Fig. I)
30. Repeat Steps #3 through #29 for the passenger side.
Fig. L
Fig. M
electrical connections
31.Lay the wiring harness on top of the passenger side, from the battery (red, positive
lead), over the coolant tank, to the headlamp
opening (Fig. M). The longest wire goes in
front of the radiator, over to the driver’s side
headlamp.
32.In the headlamp cavities, locate a spot
in which to fasten your ballasts. They can be
placed anywhere as long as they don’t interfere with the operation of the headlamp assemblies and their wires can still be connected to the headlamps. They also need to be in
close proximity to the plugs incorporated into
the Sun Guns wiring harness. You can use
the included screws (drilling required) or 3M
double-sided tape. If using tape, thoroughly
clean the mounting surfaces, including the
ballasts. Also wipe the mounting areas with
rubbing (isopropyl or ethyl) alcohol to remove
any residue. Fig. N shows the ballast mounted to the frame rail and back of the headlamp
cavity with double-sided tape.
Fig. N
Fig. O
33. Secure the relay in the passenger side
headlamp area so that it does not interfere
with the operation of the headlamps. NOTE:
There is a tapped hole just under the leading edge of the headlamp cavity. You can use
this (10mm fine thread bolt), if unoccupied, to
mount the relay (Fig. O). Otherwise, use the
double sided tape to secure the relay.
34.Replace the Sun Guns assemblies by inserting them into their respective headlamp
cavities, lenses facing down, with one hand
underneath to steady it, and sliding the pivot
pin into position and through the swing arm
(Fig. P). A towel placed in the bottom of the
headlamp cavity will ensure that the lenses
and bezels don’t get scratched. Replace the
pivot pin retaining clip.
Fig. P
Passenger
hi
hi
low
Stock wiring
Female connector
Male connector
B Ballast
Re Relay
Positive
Terminal
Re
Negative Ground
38.Loosen the battery compartment wall retaining pin by prying it out with a small screwdriver (Fig. R). Loosen the battery compartment wall by pulling it slightly to the left. A gap
should appear at the upper right corner of the
battery compartment.
Brown & Black
lo-beam wires
B
37.Lower the headlamp assemblies completely using their knobs (Fig. C).
40.Remove the positive terminal nut on the
lower left side of the fuse box and attach the
harness’ positive lead to the terminal post (Fig.
S). Replace the terminal nut and tighten.
41.Refasten the battery compartment wall by
pressing the retaining pin back in. The harness’ red fuse box will be nestled in between
the fuse box and the battery compartment
wall.
Green & Black
hi-beam wires
Negative Ground
36.Swing each headlamp assembly up into
position and reinsert the two pivot pins from
Fig. D. Replace the pivot pin retaining nuts. It
is advised to use a drop of thread locker on
these nuts.
39.Feed the positive lead and fuse holder
through the gap from underneath and route
the lead along the inside right of the compartment wall.
Driver
low
Brown & Black
lo-beam wires
B
35.Join the male connectors on the Sun
Guns harness to the female connectors on
the ballasts (Fig. Q). The stock high-beam
connectors (green & black wires) are plugged
into the high-beam projectors. Mate up the
two small male and female connectors from
the ballasts to the low-beam projectors. The
stock low-beam connector on the passenger’s
side (brown & black wires) plugs into the Sun
Guns female connector. NOTE: The stock
low-beam connector (brown & black wires)
on the driver’s side is not used and can be
taped up to prohibit corrosion.
Fig. Q
42. Moving forward, tuck the lead to the relay
around the coolant tank and into the headlamp
opening, such that it doesn’t interfere with any
moving parts.
43.Remove the negative ground retaining
nut on the frame rail located at the foot of the
hood prop (Fig. T).
44.Inspect the contact areas here to make
sure there is a very solid grounding connection. Clean if necessary. Place the harness’
ground terminal loop over the frame’s ground
stud and replace the retaining nut securely.
Fig. R
45. Repeat Steps #43 & #44 for the driver’s
side grounds.
46. Reattach the negative ground to the battery.
47.Close the hood.
Fig. S
48.Turn on the ignition while car is in Park/
Neutral, and let car idle for at least 2 minutes.
49.Turn on the low-beam headlamps, two
clicks forward on the end of the headlamp
stalk. Turn off headlamps and then on again,
making sure headlamps open and close together smoothly.
50.With the low-beams on, turn on the highbeams (stalk pushed forward). Make sure
both high-beams come on. The low-beams
will go off at this time.
Fig. T
51.Turn off high-beams (pull stalk back to center position). Turn off low-beams, but leave the
lights up (one click back on the end of the stalk). Turn off the ignition.
52.Carefully place the headlamp covers in position.
53.Lower the headlamps by turning the end of the stalk back one more click.
54.Check for alignment of headlamp covers
in relation to the fenders, hood and fascia.
If necessary, remove the covers and make
small adjustments to the four leveling studs
on the top of the headlamp assembly. Once
each cover sits flush with its surroundings,
replace the cover, but do not install the headlamp cover retaining screws (Fig. Q).
Fig. Q
55.On the inboard side of one headlamp pair,
use a Torx 20 driver in the end of the stock
vertical adjusting rod (the long one), move the
headlamp pair up/down. This will be a visual
alignment - the goal is to have a fairly equal
gap between the headlamp cover to top of
projectors and the bottom of projectors to the
fascia. As a guide, place a flat piece of cardboard on your fascia so that it comes close
to your high-beam projector. The cardboard
should intersect the projector lens at it lowest
point (Fig. R).
56.Adjust the headlamp pair left or right us- Fig. R
ing the stock horizontal adjusting rod on the
outboard side of the headlamp pair. The goal
here is to visually ensure that the lights are pointing directly forward, parallel to the direction of
travel.
57. Repeat Steps #55 and #56 for the other headlamp pair. At this point, your headlamps
should look fairly centered within their openings, and look similar on each side.
58.Replace the headlamp covers, securing them with their four (each cover) screws. Lower
the headlamps unless you’re ready to aim them.
Aiming your SUN GUNS
This procedure should be performed at dusk or later, depending on available ambient light.
Refer to Fig. S and T for a visual of the alignment setup.
59.Find a flat, level area with a vertical wall, with a distance of at least 50' from the wall.
60.Place a 10" piece of tape vertically on the wall with the bottom of the tape approximately
18" from the ground.
61.With a piece of tape, mark a line on the
ground parallel to the wall at a distance of
25' from the wall, and in line with the tape on
the wall. Place another piece of tape on the
ground perpendicular to the first one so that it
points directly at the tape on the wall.
62. Align your Corvette so that the front edge
of your front fascia is above the 25' mark and
as perpendicular to the wall as possible. To
help in aligning your car, you can put a small
piece of tape vertically in the center of your
windshield and another in the center of your
back window. By moving your car so as to
align these two pieces of tape to the vertical tape on the wall (as viewed from behind
your car), you will be assured of perfect alignment.
63.Measure the distance from the ground to
the center of one of your low-beam projectors
(they should be the same, within a fraction of
an inch). This will be referred to as “V”. As a
reference, a stock C5 lowered all the way on
stock bolts will have a V of approximately 24".
An unmodified, stock C5 will have a V amount
greater than this, while a “slammed” C5 will
have a V of less than 24".
64.On the wall, put a 6" piece of tape horizontally, intersecting the vertical tape so that
the point of intersection is at a distance of V
from the ground.
65.On the wall, measure out 27" from the
vertical piece of tape and put a second 6"
piece of tape vertically on the wall such that
its midpoint is approximately distance V from
the ground. Repeat for the other side.
Fig. S
Passenger’s Low Beam
V-2
70.Using the adjusting screws, horizontally
adjust the point where the “step up” begins,
2" below the cross on the wall (Fig. U).
Driver’s Low Beam
Driver’s High Beam
69.Using a small Phillips screwdriver, adjust
the three adjusting screws (Fig. U) that hold
the low-beam projector in place so that the
lower horizontally projected line is approximately 2" below the V amount line on the wall.
Although this amount can vary, it is a recommended starting point.
54"
54"
68.Cover one light with a towel or shield it
from showing on the wall. NOTE: These lights
become very HOT. Make sure your shield
doesn’t touch the light for any length of time!
Centerline of car
67.Turn on your headlamps, low-beam only.
You will see a backwards Z-pattern projected
on the wall for each light.
71.Repeat Steps #68 - #70 for the other lowbeam projector.
Fig. T
72.Turn on your high-beams by pushing forward on your light stalk. Your low-beams will
turn off. Your halogen high-beams will project
a circular pattern on the wall for each light.
73.Again, cover one headlamp. Using a small
Phillips screwdriver, adjust the three adjusting
screws that hold the high-beam projector in
place so that the center of the beam coincides
with the center of the respective cross on the
wall. Repeat for the other headlamp.
V
Passenger’s High Beam
V
66. On one of these vertical pieces of tape,
measure up from the ground the V amount
and place a horizontal piece of tape 6" long.
Repeat for the other side. You now have 3
crosses of tape on the wall indicating the center of your car and the centers of your lowbeam headlamps, all at a distance V from the
ground.
Fig. U
74.Prior to installing the headlamp shrouds,
drive around various streets and in varying
traffic conditions to see if you get “flashed”
by oncoming cars. If all goes without incident,
proceed to Step #75, otherwise go back to
Step #68 and lower the low beam an additional half inch (V-2.5") at the wall.
installing the shrouds
75.Open your hood and disconnect your battery’s negative ground.
Fig. V
76. Manually raise one headlamp assembly
using the knob as pictured in Fig. C.
77. The optional shrouds can have sharp edges, so take precaution as to not cause damage to your projectors, paint and skin. Apply
one or two layers of masking tape to the edge
of the fascia and hood, and also to the projector bezels (Fig. V).
Fig. W
78.The shrouds are installed by attaching
them to the headlamp cover first, and then
positioned onto the headlamp assembly together. Slide the shroud onto the headlamp
cover, ensuring that the tab on the top of the
shroud goes under the metal spring clip on
the underside of the headlamp cover.
79. Secure the shroud to the headlamp cover
with two screws, at the back of the shroud,
one on each side.
80.Insert the shroud/cover onto the headlamps by inserting the bottom edge of the
shroud first, at a 90° angle to the headlamps,
and then rotating the shroud backwards over
the projectors (Fig. W). Take your time, watching on all sides and from the back, while you
position the shroud. If you find that the screws
holding the shroud to the cover are causing
interference, file down the ends of the screws
to gain additional clearance. The shroud/cov-
Fig. X
er assembly is a fairly tight fit, so it may be necessary to slightly lower and/or raise the headlamp assembly while fitting it.
81. Check for a uniform fit within each opening. Fine adjustments can be made using the three
screws holding each projector (Fig. U). If the lights need to moved forward or backward within
the openings, adjust all three screws the same amount. If any adjustments are made, make
sure that your lights are still properly aligned by checking against the wall markings (Fig. T).
82. Once properly aligned, the bottom of the shrouds should be flush with the fascia, +/- 1/8"
(Fig. X).
83. Secure the shroud/cover to the headlamp assembly using the two stock screws, through
the large holes in the shroud. Replace the two stock screws at the rear of the headlamp cover.
84. Repeat Steps #76 through 83 for the other shroud.
85. Reattach the negative battery ground. Close your hood.
86. Start the car and allow it to idle for a minute.
87. Turn on your Sun Guns and cycle through high and low beams to ensure that all lamps are
functioning properly.
88. Turn Sun Guns off and on again to ensure that the headlamps pop up and close appropriately.
89. Turn off Sun Guns.
90. Turn off your C5.
Congratulations! You are now the proud owner of the latest in high performance lighting available for the C5 Corvette - Directed Energy’s Sun Guns.
For technical assistance please call: Michael Bassett at 775-315-0814
Directed Energy, Inc.