2. Getting Ready to Sew
Transcription
2. Getting Ready to Sew
lnstrucnon Book for the Singer" Sewing:Machine MODEL 2404 Congratulations. You are about to disco ver the pleasure of sewing with your new Singer* sewing machine. We know you are eager to get started on a sewing project ... but we urge you to become familiar with this book betore you begin. It is designed to he!p you get the benefit otali the capabilities of this machine. 1-800-527-1516 CALL TOLL FREE - For Location of Singer Service Center NearestYou. Copyrighl lO 1984 The Singer Company Ali Righls Reserved Ihroughoullhe World • A Trademark 01The Singer Company Dear Customer: We recommend that for future reference you record tre serial number of your Sewing Machine· in the space provided. Serial No. Refer to iIlustration at Nght for Iocation of serial number on your machine. Serial No. _ To ensure that you arealways provided wilh lhe rnost modem sewing capabililies. THE MANUFACTURER reserites lhe righl lo change lhe appearance. design or accessories 01 Ihis sewing rnachme when considered necessary. 2 Contents 1. Gettingto Know Your Machine . Principal Parts Accessories . . 2. Getting Ready to Sew 4 4 6 . 10 . 10 . 18 . 20 Choosing and Changing Accessories Operating Machine The Bobbin Thread Threading the Machine . 24 . 28 3. Straight Stitching 28 32 34 Setting Selectors . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sewing a Seam . Applications . . . . . . . . . . 38 4. Basic Zig·zagStitching Setting Selectors . . . 38 Satin Stitching . 40 Stitch Usage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 5. Paliem Stitching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Selecting a Stitch . 46 Stitch Pattem Chart . 48 50 Adjusting Stitches for Stretch Fabrics . Decorative Stitching . 62 6. Bullonholes and Buttons 66 66 Garment Preparation Manual Buttonholing ... Buttons . 70 74 7. Caring forYour Machine . 76 8. Twin NeedleStitching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 9. HomeSelVice Hints . 86 Index . 3 88 1. Getting to Know Vour Machine . Principal Parts 1. Spoof Pin 2. Thread Guides 3. Bobbin Winder Tension Disc 4. Take-up Lever 5. Needle-Thread Tension Dial 6. Face Plate 7. Presser Foot Lifter 8. ThreadCutter 9. Presser Foot Screw 10. General Purpose Presser Foot 11. ThreadGuides 12. Feed 13. General Purpose Needle Plate 14. Slide Plate 15. Bobbin Case 16. Bobbin 17. Needle Clamp 18. ElectricalConnectionsand SpeedContmller 19. Hand Wheel 20. Hand Wheel Knob 21. Stitch Width Selector 22. Needle Position Selector 23. Stitch Length Selector 24. Reverse Stitch Push Button 25. Bobbin Winder Spindle 26. Power and Light Switch 4 5 Accessories The accessories provided wilh your sewing machine are designed lo help vou do many kinds 01 sewing easily. 1. Transparent Bobbins (No. 172336) 2. Singer* Needles • Slyle 2020 lor general sewing. • Styíe 2045 lor sewing knits, stretch labrics and elastic. • Slyle 2028t lor Iwin-needle decoralive stitching. 3. Button Foot holds rnost flat buttons securely lor lastening. 4. Zipper Foot lor inserling zippers and stitchínq corded seams. 5. Blindstitch Hem Guide. Use this with the general purpose 1001 lo position and guide lhe hem. 6. Straight Stitch Foot and Straight Stitch Needle Plate are used when your labric or sewing procedure requires close control. These accessories are recommended lor ali straiqht stitch sewing. 7. Buttonhole Foot is used lo make bar tack buttonholes in four steps, 8. General Purpose Foot and General Purpose Needle Plate are on your machine when dei ivered. Use them for allernating between slraighl and zig-zag stttchínq. 9. Special Purpose Foot. Use this lor ali kinds of decorativa slilching. 10. Snap-in Feed Cover lor button sewinq, Ireemotion work and darning. 11. Spool Pin is used for Iwin-needle sewing. 12. Small Spool Holder lor use wilh smaíl díarneter spools 01 Ihread. 13. Tube o, Oi! lor oiling lhe machine. 14. Lint Brush for cleaning your sewing machine. tCAUTION: Use this needle with tne general putpose needle pia te and general purpose ar special purpose toot only. 00 not use any otner accessories with this needle as needle breakage wil/ occur. 6 @,O..J0 1 --~ ~ 1 2020 ~ 20 4 5 2028 2 3 11 14 7 Stitch Pattern Discs Thefollowingstitch patterndiscs are includedin your accessory set. Plain Zig-Zag Stlteh Dlse 1 Multi Zlg-Zag Stlteh Dlse 2 Bllnd Stlteh Dlse 3 Seallop Stiteh Dlse 4 Arrowhead Stlteh Dlse 5 Domino Stiteh Dise 6 Shell Stiteh Dlse 7 Solld Seallop Stlteh Dlse 8 lelele Stiteh Dlse 9 Banner Stiteh Dlse 10 Key Stlteh Dise 11 Walls O, Trpy Dlse 12 Dlamond Stiteh Dlse 13 Zlg-Zag Polnts Stlteh Dlse 14 Long Obllque Stiteh Dlse 15 Shlngle Stiteh Dise 16 Pennant Stiteh Dlse 17 Three Step Stlteh Dise 18 Ball Stiteh Dise 19 . Curve Mendlng Stlteh Dise 20 Semaphore Stlteh Dlse 22 Solld Pyramid Stlteh Dlse 23 Spiny Stlteh Dlse 25 Block Stiteh Dlse 26 Faggoting Stlteh Dlse 27 Comb Stiteh Dise 28 Pavillon Stiteh Dlse 29 PlaUorm Stiteh Dlse 30 Crescent Stlteh Dlse 31 Alpine Stlteh Dise 37 8 ., ".,.' -I 1 m~ ~ .... -r, 2 . I <: 3 4 ~3 =~ t ) t~ ~ ~ ~: >~ i I . 6 7 - 8 9 11 12 13 14 16 17 18 19 22 23 25 26 t- . 5 ) 10 < 15 ~ ~ 20 27 ~ .~. ~ ~ ~ 28 29 30 9 ~ ~7 2. Getting Ready to Sew Choosing and Changing Accessories CAUTION: Disconnect the power line p/ug fram the socket outlet when changing need/es, teet, or need/e p/ates, or when /eaving the machine unattended. This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine by accidental/y pressing the speed contral/er. Changing Presser Feet • Raise needle to highest position by turning the hand wheel toward vou. • Raise presser foot. 1. Press toe of presser toot upward as far as il will go until it snaps free. 2. Centre the new presser foot under the shank A. Lower the presser foot lifter so that the shank tits over lhe presser toot pino 3. Press presser toot screw down firm/y unlil toot snaps ínto place. 10 1 3 11 Removing and Replacing lhe Button FooI and Presser FooI Shank • Raise needle lo highesl position by lurning lhe hand wheel toward vou. • Raise lhe presser 1001. • Loosen presser 1001 screw A and remove lhe shank S, guiding il lo lhe righl. • To replace lhe accessorv, hook shank around lhe presser bar and lighlen lhe presser 1001 screw. NOTE: /nsert tne edge ot a coin in tne seat ot the presser foot screw to /oosen it and tighten it secure/y. Attaching Blindslilch Hem Guide • Raise presser 1001, íoosen presser toot screw and slip blíndstitch hem guide belween screw and shank of lhe general purpose toot. • Se sure underside 01 lhe guide clears lhe slide plale and front of toot. • Tighlen screw wilh a coin. 12 13 Changing Needle Plales NOTE: Remove bobbin if it conteos thread in order to prevent thread being caught wnen p/ate is rep/aced. • Raise needle lo hiqhest position by lurning lhe hand wheel toward vou. • Raise presser toot. • Open slide plale. Place Ihumb under righl side ot needle plate, lift it up and wilhdraw it lo righl. • Replace needle plale under clamping pin A, push il firm/y to lhe left and press down until il snaps into place. • Close slide plate.' Attaching Snap·in Feed Cover • Raise needle lo highesl position by lurning hand wheel toward vou. • Raise presser toot, open slide plate and inseri general purpose needle plate, • Slide snap-in feed cover away from vou over needle plate until poínts B and C are positioned directly over holes in needle plate as illustrated. Snap in point B. Then push poínt C in toward point B until il snaps into place. Close slide plate. • To remove, open slide plate, then simply lift up front edge ot feed cover and remove. Close slide plate. Changing lhe Needle • Raise needle to its highest posítion by lurning lhe hand wheel toward Vou. Loosen lhe needle-clamp screw D and remove lhe needle. • Insert new needle with the flat side of lhe needle lo the back, up into clamp E as far as it will go. • Tighlen needle-clamp screw. 14 15 Fabric, Thread The needle and thread you choose will depend upon the fabric to be stitched. The needle should be fine enough to prevent the fabric from being marred with large punctures, yet heavy enough to pierce the fabric without being bent ar deflected. . FABRIC FILMY -Chiffon, Organza, Tulle, Voile SHEER-Net, Lace, Ninon, Crepe de Chine, Voile LlGHT - Velvel, Crepe de Chine, Shantung, Faille, Organdy, Muslin, Batiste, Dirnity, Lawn, Percale, Piqué, Poplin Cashmere, Flannel, Mohair, Felt, Taffeta, Satin, Challis, Eyelet, Gingham, Crepe, Broadclàth MEOIUM-Velvet, Crepe de Chine, Shantung, Suiting, Satin, Crepe, Velveteen, Corduroy, Fleece, Flannel, Gabardine, Felt, Serge, Mohair HEAVY -Brocade, Taffeta, Satin, Crepe, Corduroy, Unen, Drapery Fabric, Burlap, Suiting, Gabardine, Poplin Denim, Ticking, Canvas VERY HEAVY-Denim, Duck, Canvas, Sailcloth, Coating, Blanketing, Upholstery Fabric KNITS, STRETCH ANO ELASTICS-Jersey, Ciré, Sweater Knit, Bonded Knit, Tricot, Stretch Terry, Double Knit, Spandex, Deep Pile, Fake Furs .LEATHER, P1ASTIC, VINYLS-Kidskin, Patent Leathers and Suedes, Plastic Film, Imitation Upholstery Vinyl and Leather 16 . and Needle labia lhe eye of lhe needle rnust be large enough for lhe Ihread lo pass Ihrough il freely: 100fine a needle will cause lhe Ihread lo fray. lhe table below is a guide lo needle and Ihread seleclion. Refer lo il before startínq a sewing projecl. Be sure to use tne same size and type of thread in both needle and bobbin. NEEDLE THREAD o Style Size Fine silk, cotton, merc. or synlh. 2020 9170 11/80 Fine silk, cotton. merc. or synlh. 2020 9170 11/80 2020 11/80 Medium silk, cotton, merc. ar synlh. 2020 11/80 14/90 Heavy silk, cotton. merc. or synlh. 2020 14/90 16/100 2020 14/90 16/100 18/110 Fine, medium, or heavy synlhelic 2045 11/80 14/90 16/100 Fine merc. & synlh. Med. merc. & synlh. Hvy. merc. & synlh. 2032 11/80 14/90 16/100 18/110 Fine silk, cotton, merc. ar synlh. Medium cotton, merc. or synlh. Heavy silk, cotton, mercerized or svntnetíc 17 Qperating Machine Connecting Machine Before plugging in your machine, be sure that the voltage and number ot cycles indicated on the electrical nameplate A, conform to your electrical power supply. Your speed controller cord has a motor disconnect plug, pus h the plug D, into the receptacle at right end of motor. Then connect the power-line plug C to your electrical outlet. CAUTION: Disconnect tne power line plug from tne socket outlet when changing needles, teet. or needle plates or when leaving tne machine unattended. This eliminates the possibility ot starting tne machine by accidental/y pressing tne speed control/er. Operating Machine To turn on the machine and sewing light. press the power and light switch located on the motor. To run lhe machlne and. conlrol speed, press the speed controller O with your toot. The harder vou press, the faster the machine will sew. To stop machine, remove foot from controller. CAUTION: Because of the up and down movement of the needle, you must woik careful/y and watch tne sewing area when operating tne machine. 18 OFF ON 19 The Bobbin Thread Winding lhe Bobbin Preparation Steps 1. Raise the presser foot and turn hand wheel toward you until needle isin highest position. 2. Loosen handwheel knob A by turning it toward you with the right hand while holding hand wheel with the left hand. 3. Place thread spool on spool pin with thread retaining slitB to the right. (Break paper at the end of spool if necessary.) • PlacespoolholderC on spoolpinand press firm/y againstthe thread spool. Winding Steps o • Snapthread into thread guide post and open top cover. • Lead thread around bobbin winder tension disc E; as illustrated, and throughsmall hole in bobbinfrom insideout. • Place bobbin on spindle and move bobbin winder F to right. • Hold thread end and start the machine. Cut off thread end after a few coils have been wound. • When required amount of thread has been wound (winding will stop when bobbin ís full) stop machine and cut connecting thread. • Move bobbin winder to the left and remove bobbin. • Hold hand wheel and tighten hand wheel knob. 20 2 1 D~ nTh~\ 21 -- Threading the Bobbin Case 1. Hold bobbin so that Ihread unwinds in direclion shown, and inserI bobbin in bobbin case. 2. Pull Ihread ínto notch A in bobbin case. draw il loward left and ínto síot B. 3. Draw approxrnately 10cm (4 inches) of Ihread diagonally across lhe bobbin. 4. Close slide plate, allowing Ihread lo extend Ihrough lhe slot between lhe slide plate and lhe needle plate, 22 23 Threadihg lhe Machine • Place spool of thread on spool pino If spool being used has a thread retaining slit A, it should be placed to the ríght, as iIIustrated. . • Ralse the presser toot, to release thread tension. • Raise the take-up lever to highest position by turn: ing hand wheel toward vou. , ~ Snap thread into thread guide post 1. • Holding thread ends in each hand, snap thread into . upper Ihread guide 2• •, Pass thread through thread guide 3. • With right hand on Ihread spool, Ihread the needle thread tension 4. Slide Ihread over metal plate be. tween tension discs with left hand. Lead thread under tension and tension wire. Thread tension wire by (irmly pulling thread up and over to the righ" • Guide thread through point S. • Thread take-up lever 8, as illustrated. • Draw thread through poínts 7 and 8, guiding thread trom rear 01 each guide to the righ" • Pass Ihread Ihrough guide 9. Thread the needle 10 trom Iront lo back, drawing lOCm(4 inches) 01 thread Ihrough lhe needle eve. 24 ... ------.~ ..-..... __ . l1! ~\\\ 25 Raising the Bobbin Thread Hold needle thread lightly with left hand and turn hand wheel slowly towardvou until the needle enters plate. Continue turning hand wheel and holding needle thread until needle rises. Tighten your hold on the needle thread and bring up bobbin thread in a loop. Open the looo with your fingers. Draw approximately 10cm (4 inches) ot both threads under the presser foot and place them diagonally to left. Glose siide plate. 26 27 3. Straight Stitching Setting Selectors Befare vou move the selectars to set your machine for straight stitching, turn the hand wheel towardvou until the needle is above the needle plate. • Needle Position: L • Stitch Width: @] R ~ • Stitch Length: 1.5·4 to suit fabric Straight stitching can be performed with any one of the stitch pattern discs in place and stitch widttf lever at ---- only. Adjusting Stitch Length lhe stitch length dial controls the length of stítches. lhe numbers around the edge of the dial express stitch length in mm; tnelowertne numbet, tne snonet tnestitch. Generally, shorter stitches are best for lightweight fabrico lhe area from O to 1 is used for the adjustment of zig-zag satin stitching (see page 40). 5etting the Dial • Iurn dial so that stitch length desired is positioned under ..... symbol. • To shorten stitch length, turn dial toward a lower number. • Tolengthen stitchlength, turn dial toward a higher number. Forreverse stitching, depress push button located in centre of dial, hold in until reverse stitching ís completed, then release push button. 28 L C R G} ---~ ~ 29 Needle Thread Tension Having selected the correct needle and thread combination for the fabric being used, it may be necessary to adjust the tension of the sewing machine to insure a well-balanced stitch. A well-balanced stitch is produced when the top and under thread appear the same on the fabrico Your machine has an adlustable top tension control system. This control exerts tension on the threads as they pass through the machine to form a stitch. • Too much tension will produce a tight stitch which will cause puckered .searns, • Too IiUle tension will produce a loose stitch. When an even amount ot tension is exerted on both threads, a smooth even stitch known as a balanced stitch, is produced. Tension Test Tohelp understand the effect ot tension on fabric and thread, try this simple test: • Take two pieces of a medium weight woven fabric in a solid Iight coloür about 15cm (6 inches) long. • Place a 2020 size 14 needle in the machine. • Thread the top ot your machine with a polyester or cotton dark colou r thread and use a Iighter colou r thread ot the same fibre and síze in the bobbin. • Select straight stitch. • Seam the two pieces of fabric together starting with the top tension control at 1. Then as you sew, slowly turn.íhe tension control from 1 through 9. • Sew another row turning the dial back to 1. Vou should have a balanced stitch on each row mid-way between the start and finish in each case. • The different coloured threads will help you to see the effect that the tension has on the top and bottom threads. Now that you have observed the effects of tension, we suggest that you perform a similar test on a scrap ot fabric you plan to use, being sure to duplicate the number ot thicknesses of your garment. 30 31 Sewing a Seam 1. Select straight stitch and set the stitch length dial on desired setting. Raise presser foot. Pull thread back under presser foot leaving at least 10cm (4 inches) of thread. 2. Position needle approximately 1.3cm (1/2 inch) from fabric edge. Then lower presser foot and backstltch almost to the edge of the fabric for reinforcement by stitching in reverse direction. For additional information on reverse stitching refer to page 28. Stitch forward to end of seam and stop machine before the end of stitching line. (Do not sew beyond edge of fabric.) CAUTION: Do not pull the fabric while vou are . stitching as this may deflect the need/e causing it to break. 3. Raise needle by turnlnç hand wheel toward vou. Press reverse stitch push button, and back stitch 1.3cm (112 inch) to reinforce end of stitching. 4. Raise needle by turning hand wheel toward vou. Raise foot ~nd remove fabric by drawing it to the . back and tothe left. Cut threads on thread cutter at rear of presser bar. 32 1 2 3 33 Applications Oaming with an Embroidery Hoop • Needle Position: L • Stitch Width: [9 R ~ • No Presser Foot • Snap-in Feed Cover • Embroidery Hoop Designed for Machine Use • Position work under needle and lower presser bar. • Hold needle thread loosely with left hand, turn hand wheel toward vou, and draw bobbin thread up through fabrico Hold both thread ends and lower needleinto fabrico • Stitch across opening, moving hoop under needle at a slight angle from lower left to upper righl. Keep lines of stitching closely spaced and even in length. When opening is filled. cover area with crosswise lines of stitching. Quilting Ouirting is the art of stitching two or more thicknesses of fabric together in a planned designo A padding is stitched to the underside of the fabric to produce a sott, puffed effect that ís becoming to some wearing apparel and to many fabric furnishings. Prepartng the Fabrtc Baste a light padding of cotton flannel, synthetic quilt batting, sheet wadding, or a lightweight wool interlining to the underside of the fabrico When using sheet wadding, first back it with voile, banste, or net to preserve the sheet wadding through wear. Baste the layers of fabric ano padding together on the lengthwise and crosswise grains. Basic Procedure • Draw both threads under the toot and diagonally across feed to reft. • Position the needle,lower the toot and start stitching. 34 35 Zipper Insertion How lhe zipper is inserted will depend on lhe lype of garmenl and lhe location of lhe zipper. Wilh lhe adjuslable zipper toot, Vou will find il easy lo sew an even line ot slilching close lo lhe zipper. For instructions on inserling zipper toot on machine, see page 10. • Needle Posilion:L • Sliléh Widlh: @] R ~ • Slilch Length: To suit fabric • General Purpose Needle Plate • Zipper Fool The zipper toot can be used eilher lo lhe left or righl ot lhe needle, depending on where lhe teeth of lhe zipper are placed. Adjusting the Zipper Foot When lhe zipper is lo lhe right of lhe needle: A. Allach righl side of zipper toot lo shank (needle will enler righl notch in toot). When lhe zipper is lo lhe left of lhe needle: B. Attach lhe left síde of zipper toot lo shank (needle will enter left nolch in foot). 36 A B 37 4. Basic Zig-zag Stitching Setting Selectors Begin by inserting your zig-zag stitch pattern disc 1 onto your sewing machine, following the steps given on page 46. Before turn;ng selector, make sure needle ;s out of the fabrico Needle Position Selector Most of your zig-zag stitching will be done in centre C needle position. Left L and right R settings are used for special stitch placement. Stitch Width Selector To produce a plain zig-zag or a decorative stitch, the stitch widt.D_ selector is moved from its straight stitch position ~--- to any of its other four posltlons, lhe further voumove the selector toward the right, the wider your stitch will be. . Adjusting Stitch Length Any stitch length setting from 1 to 4 will give vou an open zig-zag stítch. The higher the number, the more open, or farther apart your stitcheswill be. lhe area between O and 1 on the dial is used for the adjustment of zig-zag satinstitching, a seriesof closely spaced plain zig-zag stitches that form a smooth, satin-Iike surface. (Refer to page4D for information on satin stitching.) Bobbin Thread Tension Bobbin threadtensionis controlledbyscrew A located on thebobbin case.lhe tensionis set at the factory for regular sewing and shouldnot be adjusted unlessthe cornersof a zig-zag stítchcannotbe lockedbyadjusting the needlethread tension. On those rare occasions when it becomes necessary to adjust the bobbin thread tension, use a very small screwdriver. A very slightturn of screw A will change the appearance of your stitching. • To inCr8a58 tenslon, turn screw to the right. • Todecr8a58 tenslon, turn screw to the left. 38 39 Satin Stitching When you wish to produce a satin stitch, make a test sample firsl so you can adjusl stitch lenglh and Ihread tension properly. Soft fabric may require a backing lo insure a firm stitch, Crisp organdy, lawn or a fusible interfacing are suitable for Ihis purpose. Accessory and Selector Settings • Pattern: Zig-Zag Disc 1 @] • Needle Posilion: L • Stilch Widlh: R ---FMWM!VWI • Stítch Lenglh: Olo 1 • General Purpose Needle Píate • General Purpose Fool Adjusting Stitch Length • Turn stitch lenglh selector dial to 1. • Runlhe machine ai a slow speed and slowly lurn stitch lenglh dial loward lhe righl unlil stitches are closely spaced and form a smoolh surface. Adjusting Needle Thread Tension Zig-zag slitching usually requires less needle thread lension than straight stitching. Thread machine correctly and make a test sample with the same fabrico thread, needle and síitch pattern combinalion you plan to use. Stitches should lie flat without causing fabric to pucker. If puckering occurs. lower the tension by turning dial lo a lower number. An underlay ar tissue paper backing may be needed. Salin stitching requires less tension Ihan straiçnt Slitching ar open zig-zag slitching. Furtherrnore. lhe wider lhe stitch, lhe lighler the tension on the thread musl be. Notice lhe stitching on your sample. If the fabric is puckered, lower lhe needle-thread tensíon by turning the lension dial to a 10Wer number. 40 41 Stitch Usage Appliqué The stitch most commonly used in appliqué is a plain zig-zag, closely soaced to form a satin stítch. The width of this stitch can be varied to accommodate fabrics of different weaves and textures. Other stitch patterns can also be used. Preparation Make a test sample to decide which of the following methods is the most appropriate for your tabric and designo Markdesignon piece of fabric to be appltquêd. Cut out design leaving about 2 cm (3/4 inch) margin ali around. Position the designo Baste it to the fabrico Method 1 • Selectpattern andadjust stitch width dial for desired appliQué stitch. Adjust stitch length to fine setting, between 1 and O. • Follow the outer edge of the design with a decorative stitch, • Trim away the excess fabric on the outer edges of the stitching. Method 2 • • • • setect straight stitgIi: Outline the entire design with a short stítch. Trim raw edgesto the stitching and removebasting. Select stitch pattern and stitch width desired, and set stitch lengthon a satin stitch setting for a closely spaced stltch, between 1 and O. • Stitch, following the straight stitch outline. This method will produce a smooth overedged finish, with no raw edges to be trimmed after stitching. Method 3 • Purchased motifs can be applíqued Quickly and easilyby using either à straight or decorative stitch, 42 43 Zig·zag Seam Finishes .Seam edges support the ga rment and should be given a durable finishif the fabric is likely to ravel. There are two methods ot linishing seams in such fabrics: trimming seam edge or overedging. Make a lest sample to determine which method best suits your fabrico • Pattern Zig-Zag Dise 1 • Needle Position: L @] R • Stitch Width:---+0NM1 • Stitch Length: 1 to 3 to suit fabric • General Purpose Needle Plate • General Purpose Foot Method 1-Trimmed Seam Finish • Adjust stitch width and lençth to give you lhe mos! open stitch that will secure the fabric edge: avoid harsh overstitchinq. • Slilch near the edge of seam allowance and trim seam edges evenly after stitching. Method 2- Overedge Seam Finish • Adjust needle thread tension, stitch width and stitch length to suit fabrico • Trim seam edges evenly. • Place trimmed seam under the foot and overedge the seam allowance as illustraled. Lingerie Seams To make a lingerie seam durable and f1exible use the plain zig-zag stitch at a narrow width setting. This seam treatment is particularly suitable for bias seams. When seaming nylon tricot insert a 2045 needle in the machine befare you begin to sew. • Straight stitch the seam line on wrong side of fabrico • Press both seam allowances in the same direction. • From the right side, topstitch with narrow zig-zag stitching. letting tne needle alternately enter the seam line and seam thickness. (Stitch width narrow: stitch length 1 to 1.5.) 44 1 . 45 5. Pattem Stitching selecting a Stitch Your sewing machine comes with thirty pattern discs which will allow you to produce a variety of stitch patterns by simply inserting the disc of the pattern desired. Each pattern disc is numbered and has the stitch printed on its surface to aid your selection. Choose a stitch that best suits your sewing applications. For additional information on stitch pattern usage, refer to the next page. Changing Paliem Discs 1. Move the stitch width selector to its straight stitch position. 2. Raise pattern disc Iid A and pull up on the disc release bar B. 3. Remove the pattern disco 4. To replace a pattern disc, be sure that the numbered side of disc is face up and that the notch in the centre of the disc fits over the positioning key C on the disc holder O. • Push disc down firmly. • Disc will click into place when inserted correctly. 46 ---~ 1Qj A.. . . ~( 2 3 4 47 Stitch Pattern Disc Chart 1. Plain Zig-Zag Stitch 16. Shingle Slilch 17. Pennanl Slllch 2. Multi Zig-Za,g Slllch 3. Bllnd Slllch 4. Scallop Stitch 18. Three SlepSlllch 19. Ball Stitch 20. Curve Mending Slilch 5. Arrowhead Slilch 22. Semaphore Slllch 6. Domino Slilch 7. Shell Slltch 8. Solid Scallop Stitch 23. Solid Pyramid Stltch 25. Spiny Stltch 26. Block Stitch 9. Icicle Stitctl 27. faggoting Stltch 10. Banner Stitch 28. Comb Stitch 11. Key Stitch 29., Pavlllon Stltch 12. Walls 01 Troy 30. Plattorm Stitch 13. Diamond Stltch 31. Crescent Stltch 14. Zig-Zag Points Stitch 37. Alpine Stltch 15. Long Oblique Stitch 48 A_ 18 ~ 4~ 19 • • • •NN#fv1N 5~ 20 .I'J'V"'V 6~ 22 ~ 7~ 23 ~ 8 ............ 25 +++++++ 9_~ 26~ 10~. 27~ 3 11 A A l\ rrrNN 28U~ 12~ 29 13~ 30~ 15~ 37~ 49 VVWVVV Adjusting Stitches for Stretch Fabrics Guiding and Supporting Fabric Most fabrics of stretch or knit construction need only to be guidedin front of the presser foot when you use oneof the stretch stitches.Somefabrics-nylon tricot and elasticized tabrícs, for example-do require support while being stitched. 1. For nylon tricot and similar synthetic knits, apply gentle tension by holdingthe seam in front and back of the presser toot as you sew. 2. Forelasticized tabrlc, stretch lace,and knitswith an unusual amount of elasttclty, apply fírm tension in front and back of the presser foot tostretch the seam as the stitches are being placed. CAUTION: Do not pull tne fabric while you are stitching as this may deflect the needle. causing it to break. 50 51 Blindstitch Hems Blindstitehing provides adurable hem finish that is almost invisible. While it is best suited to straight ar slightly eurved herns, taped, bound, ar. turned hem edges ean also be blindstitehed with ease. • Stiteh: Blindstiteh Dlsc • Needle Position:L _ @] • Stiteh Width: R ---~ • Stiteh Length: To suittabric • General Purpose Needíe Plate • General Purpose Foot • Blindstiteh Hem Guide 1. Raise presser toot, loosen serew, and slip blindstiteh hem guide between serew and shank of toot. Make sure underside of the guide elears the slide plate and front of toot. Tighten screw with eoin. .2. Prepare hem in the usual way. It is advisable to baste the hem. Plaee the basting at least 1.3 crrr(V2 ineh) below the edge of hem allowanee to avoid eatehing the f1ange of guide as vou stiteh. 3. With the wrong side of work uppermost, turn the hem under, ereating a soft fold from the top edge of hem. 4. Position hem under the foot with the soft fold resting against the wall of guide. Make sure the flange of the guide is between soft fold and top of hem, as shown. 5. Lower presser toot. Stiteh so that the straight stitches fali on the hem allowanee and zig-zag stitehes pieree the sott fold of work. Adjust stiteh width if neeessary. While stitehing, guide hem edge in a straight line and feed sott fold evenly against wall of the guide. 52 1~ 2 4 53 Ladder5eam The blindslilch ladder seam ís particularly appropriate for knil and stretch fabrics. II is ideal for stretchable construction seams, and edge finishes for necklines, pockets and collars in sportswear and swimsuils. • Paliem: Blinostitch • Needle Posilion: L • Stítch Widlh: Dlsc 350 @] R ·--~I .. Slilch Lenqth: 1.5lo 2.5 • General Purpose Needle Plate • General Purpose Fool • 'Make a test sample lo adiust sfitch widlh and lenglh and needle Ihread lension lo sult lhe fabrico Needle Ihread lension should be liqhter Ihan normal. • Cul and tit garmenl. allowing for 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) seam allowance. Basle seam line. • Place fabric under presser 1001 so that lhe straíçht stítches fali on lhe seam line basling and lhe poínts loward lhe centre of lhe garment. • After Slilching, open seam by pulling fabric back on opposite sides ot lhe seam lo produce ladder effect. Press seam allowance after opening, 54 55 Construction Stitches Multi·Stitch Zig·zag The multi-stitch zig-zag is an extremely versatile stitch. Use it to mend, join, or reinforce without bulk. With this stitch you may attach elastic and stretch lace, construct Iingerie and swimsuits, and finish seams. There are many other useful applications for the multi-stitch zig-zag. Mending a Tear • Stitch: Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag Disc2 • Needle Position: L • Stitch @] R W~dth: ---~ • Stitch Length: .5 to 1 • General purpose needle plate. • General purpose foot or special purpose foot. • Trim ragged edges. • Place underlay on the wrong side of tear for reinforcement. Baste one side of underlay in place. • Stitch on the right side, bringing the edges of the tear together. Shorten stitch length at ends and corners to give extra.strençth, • Trim underlay. Finishes for Hems and Facings Hem and facing edges in knit and stretch fabrics will be less apt to press through and mark when given a flat edge finish. Edge finishing with the multi-stitch zig-zag eliminates the bulk of turned-in edges and retains fabric f1exibility. • Make a test sample to check thread tension and stitch length if you are using the multi-stitch zig-zag. • Place stitching about 1.3 em (1/2 inch) from hem or facing edge. Avoid stretching edge while sewing. • Press after stitching and trim away excess fabric close to the stitching line. 56 57 Multi·Stitch Zig·zag BarTacks With the rnulti-stitch zig-zag you can make strong bar tacks. Multi-stitch zig-zag bar tacks areeffective for tacking belt tocos on heavy fabrics such as denim. Se sure'to check the Fabric, Thread and Needle Tabie on page 16 for correct threadand needle selection with your choice of fabrico • Stitch: Multi-Stltch Zig-Zag Disc 2 • Needle Position: L • Stitch Width: ~ R ---~ • Stitch Length: O to 4 • Snap-in feed cover. • General purpose foot or special purpose fool. We recommend making a test sample first using scraps of the material you will be sewing the bar tacks on, duplicating ali thicknesses. 1. Mark position for the finished end of belt loopon the fabrico • Place belt loop, wrong side up, straight stitch with cut end 3 mm (1/8 inch) from edge of garment; do not stitch beyond edges of the belt loop. Trim the end close to the stitching and press. 2. Fold belt loop back on the stitching line and press. • Set your machine accordínq to the coce above. • Stitch 3 mm (1/8 inch) from the fold using the multi-stitch zig-zag. 3. Fold over loose end and bar tack. 58 r ,..------11 .1-----, ..:.:.:.:.: ,......-- - - --- - - - - H ! i j ~ ! ! - - - - .w ! !,---- · n 1 1 ! j l i --- i 59 1 --- Patchwot1c Quilting • Stitch: Domino Disc 6 • Needle Position: L • Slitch Width: @J R ---~ • Stitch Length: .5 to 1 • General purpose needle plate. • General purpose foot or special purpose toot. Patchwork for quilts and wearing apparel, formerly put together with hand stitching, can be quickly pieced and decorated at the same time by using the domino stítch. Joinings are both flexible and durable when this method is used. Procedure • Cut a fabric underlay to size. Baste a Iight layer of padding to underlay if a quilted effect is desired. • Prepare patches, turning under 6 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance. On non-woven fabric this step is not necessary. • Baste patches to underlay in arrangement desired, butting ali edges. • Stitch in tength)vise and crosswise rows, allowing stitches to straddle patches. 60 61 Decorative Stitching Your sewing machine has several stitches which are purelydecorative. These versatile stitches allow you to add imagination and creativityto your sewing projects. With these decorative stitches, you can applyto clothes and household items: interestlnq details, youthful and feminine accents, and personalized effects. Some of themanyapplications of thedecorative stitches include borderdesíqns, appliqué, twin-needle stitching, finished hems, smocking, embroidering, monograms and topstitching accent lineson clothes. The following pages iIIustrate decorative stitches on your machine and provide examples for their creative use. Border Designs Border designs thatadda decorativetouchto wearing apparel andhousehold itemscan be createdby combining different typesof straight stitching and zig-zag stitching. Simple or elaborate, delicate or bold, they can be varied to suit the application. Usethemas you would a braid or to simulate horizontal, vertical or bias stripes on plain fabrico Procedure Markor crease fabric for the centre lineof first row of stitching. If spacing between rows is not greaterthan 1.3 cm (112 inch), gauge additional rows with the presser toot. If spacing is wider, mark for each Une of stitching. Usea backing of crisplawn, organdy or a tusible interfacing. Se sure to makea test sample on a swatch of your fabric to check stitch settings and thread tension, being sure to duplicate thickness and interfacing or backing if appropriate. 62 31 13 8 --~-----r-----~-----Ã-----7 / > /' / (, " r> ,/ v' /, / " /' '\ V / / /, " /'\ '\ / / --'>t----/, / '\ " / / ,{ /Ô»; ,/'\ /'\ /, /, ,/ ' / ', / / '\ / '\ ,/ ' 'L \/ '"L \/ '\ ___'tL 'L 63 ~ Monograms Manydecorative stitch patternscan be usedfor rnonograms and motifs-to add a personal touch to a blouse collar, for example, or for initialing household linens. Vou can buy designs or create them yourself to suit the stitch pattern you wish to use. Very simple straight-line monograms can be made with the plaín zig-zag stitch, or youcan create a motif by arranging individual pattern units to form a designo Refer to page 38 for informationon setting selectors for zig-zag and decorativestitching.. When you use a decorative stitch pattern to form a motif, you will want to start at the beginning of the arrowhead, crescent or whatever pattern you have selected. Finding Beginning O, Pattem Unit 1. On a scrap ot material, stitch until you come to the endof a completepatternunit,as indicated A. Now you are ready to start stitching at the beginning of the next unit. 2. Raise presser toot and remove scrap. • 3. Position motif under needle, lower the presserfoot and stítch. 64 A 65 6. Buttonholes and Buttons Buttonholes can be madeeasilywith the manualtourstep method. Before sewing on your garment. always make a test buttonhole duplicating the number of thicknesses of fabric and interfacing if appropriate. Garment Preparation Buttonhol~ Position Accurateguidelines are essential to keepbuttonholes at a uniform distance from the edge of the garment. evenly spaced, and on the grain of the fabrico 1. Markthe centre lineon the garment. Thisguideline can be made by machineor hand basting or using tailor's chalk. Be sure that the space from the centre line to the finished edge of the garment is at least equal to three-quarters the diameter of the button. Wilh this spacing. the buttonwill not extend beyond the edge . when the garment is buttoned. Make sure that the centre line marking follows a lengthwise fabric thread. A. Centre Une B. Buttonhole C.Finished Edge of Garment O. Diameter of Buttori 2. Mark a positíon guideline for each buttonhole. Horizontal buttonholesB are placed to extend 3mm (1/8inch)beyond the centre line'A ot the garment. as shown. so that the buttonswill be in the centre ot the figure when the garmentts fastened. . Horizontal buttonhole guidelines should follow a crosswise fabric thread. • Mark the horizontal buttonhole guideline for each buttonhole. lt should be longer than the finished length ot the buttonhole. • Mark thestarting point for each buttonhole 3mm (1/8 inch) beyond the centre line (see iIIustration). 66 l-A I I I I I 1 :1 C 1 I I I I I I .-1 1 I I1 B ----~ II I I I I I, _11 ~' ---~~~ I~ ::J I' I: o' "----~-I' I, 3mm (lV" 8 )_ I: _ 2 _ 67 Vertical buttonholes C are placed se thqt .the centre line Aof the garmentísin the centreof the buttonhole, as shown. • Mark the ends ot each buttonhole horizontally across the centre line basting and use the centre linemarking as the buttonhole guídewhenstitching. Buttonhole Length • Thebuttonhole lengthshouldbe just longenough to allow the button to slip throughthe opening without stretching it. • To make sure the measurement is correct, cut a slit in a scrap of fabric equalto the diameterof the button you intendto use. • Increase length of opening until buttonslipsthrough easily. This test is particularly advisable for buttons of uno usual shapeor thickness. 68 I I ~~t~ I I __ 1- _ _J=-I C I~A --i~ 11 . ------------- ------ ~_._-- .rfl~ ~\ll\.' 69 MANUAL BUTTONHOLES Settings: • Pattern Disc: No. 1 • Slilch Widlh: See below • Needle Posilion: • • • • [!] C R Slilch Lenglh: Belween Oand 1 Special Purpose Presser Fool General Purpose Needle Plale Speed: Moderale Always make a test buttonhole on a sample of your fabrico Se sure to duplicate the thíckness of the garment and ínclude interfacíng íf appropriate. Follow the ínstructíons beginning on page 88 for preparing and markíng the garment. . Stitch Width Settings Vou will use two stítch wídth settíngs: one for síde stítching and one for the bar tacks (the closings at each end of'the buttonhole). These stitch wídths may vary according to the size of the buttonhole requíred. Two posstble combinations are íllustrated on next page. 70 Stitch Width Selector SeUings ---~ Side Stitching -: ---~ Bar Tacks Side Stitching 71 Procedure Place work under needle. aligning center marking of buttonhole with the centerline on the special purpose foot. Step 1: Side Stitching Position needle in fabric at point A. Lower the footand stitch to end of marking. Leave needle in fabric at point B. Raise foot and pivot work on needle. Lowerthe foot. Take one stitch without changíng stltch width setting, bringing work to point C. Step 2: Bar Tack Adjust stitch width selector for bar tacks, and take about six stitches. Stop at point D. Step 3: Side Stjtching Readjust stitch width selector for side stitching. Complete work to point E. Leave needle in fabrico Step 4: Final Bar Tack Adjust stitch width selector for bar tacks and take about six stitches, ending at point F. Step 5: Fast~ning Stitch To secure stitching, move stitch width selector to .... and take three stitches. Remove work, draw threads to underside, fasten, and trim. Cut opening for button with sharp scissors. 72 ---~ W A CB ! I I Step 1 B ---~ ---~ W G C D D Step-3 Step 2 E ---~ ---~ t() G Step 4 Step 5 F F 73 Buttons' Mosl nat buttonscan be sewnquickly and easilyusing lhe zig-zag stitch • Paliem: Zig-Zag Dlsc 1 • Needle Posilion: L @] R • Stítch Widlh: ---~ • Stítch Lenqth: O • General Purpose Needle Plale • Snap-in Feed Cover • Button FooI Sewing on a Button • SeIyour machineup according lo the code aoove. • Mark position of button on garment. Place garment under foot. Align garment 50 that the button is directly underthe toot. Lower the presser foot to grip button centrally. 1. Tum hand wheel very slowly toward you until needle point aligns with hole 01 the button. Adjust zigzag stitch width. il necessary to permit clean entry 01 the needle. . 2. Continue turmng hand wheel one complele revolution and observe tnat the needle point ís properly positioned lo enter the other hole. • Take SIX lo tweive stitches. • Remove garmenl from rnachme. Pull Ihreadslo underside 01 garmenl and tnrn. 74 L c W 1 ---~ ó 1 ---~ ó 2 75 R l Caring forYour Machine Cleaning the Machine CAUTlON: Betore cleaning your machine, disconnect the power line plug trom tne socket outtet. ~ Periodically. depending on machine use, clean and oil , your rnachíne, using one drop ot oil on illustrated areas. Top and Botlom Covers Clean and oil the top andbottorn areas marked on the illustrations. Use a large screwdriver to remove the screws. To replace the covers, simply line up the screwholes and replace screws with a large screwdriver. 76 D D 77 Face 'Plate Area To clean ~ andoi! , the front interior of machine, remove screwIrom face plate. With a sottclothor lint brush, clean and oi! points indicated by arrows. Replaceface plate and screw. Bobbin and Feed Areas Tocleanbobbin andteedareas, remove needleplate, asinstructed on page14. Remove bobbincaseas instructed on nextpage. Using sottclotharbrush, clean area as illustrated. Replace needle plate and bobbin case, as instructed on pages 14 and 80. Exterior Areas If necessary, a mild solution of soap and water maybe used on exterior areas to remove stubborn stains. No other cleaning liquid or powder should be used. CAUTION: Do not attempt to adjust the motor bet: Contact your nearest $ervice centre should any eajustment ba required. 78 79 Removing and Replacing Bobbin Case CAUTION: Before removing .bobbin case, disconnect the power-line plug ttom the socket outlet. IMPORTANT: The bobbin case is manufactured from a special phenolic comooind special/y designed to provide smooth friction-free sewing. Withproper handling the bobbin case wil/ give you years ot reliable, trouble-free sewing. The bobbin case is the most important part ot your sewing machine. Please handle with care and do not force when removing and replacing it. • Turn hand wheel toward you to ralsa needíe to its highest position. 1. Open slide plate, remove needle plate and remove bobbin. 2. Insert screwdriver into bobbin case holder A and turn it tóward the rear as illustrated. 3. To remove bobbin case: • Insert index finger into centre of bobbin case. With index finger and thumb gently Iift and pushbobbin case awayfrom you until the case is released from holder. 4. To replace bobbin case: • Insert index finger into centre of case and grip with thumb above the screws. Gently slide the f1at tab at the rear of the bobbin case underneath the curved section of feed B while rnaintaining slight upward pressure, then slide bobbin caseali the wayto the rear. Lower the bobbin caseand drawit toward you 50 that tab C is positioned under plate D. Gentlywiggle caseto insure proper seating in the rimof the rotating hook. In this position bobbin case should be free to tloat slightly from side to side. • When you are sure bobbin case ís properly seated lockcaseintoposition by turning holder A back,as illustrated. . Replace bobbin, needle plate and close slide ptate. 80 1 A_5'l4' 2 3 4 Changing the Light Bulb CAUTION: Betore changing /ight bulb make sure you have disconnected power /ine plug trom socket outlet. This machineis designed to use a 15-watt maximum bayonetbase bulb only. The screw located on the machine face plate must be removed before the face plate can be opened. • Remove face plate. • Do not attempt to unscrew the bulb. 1. Press it up into the socket and at the same time turn bulb over in direction shown to unlock the bulb pin and guide out of.. socket. • Press new bulb into socket, with bulb pins ente ring slot ot socket. 2. Turn it over in direction shown to lock bulb in position. • Replace face plate. Replacing the Slide Plate Vou will not have any occasion to remove the sUde plate. However, if it should accidentally become disengaged from the machine, it is easily replaced. • Raise the presser toot and make sure needle is in its highest posítlort. " • Place slide plate in slide way with the front edge close to, but not covering, the retaining spring (as shown). • With a small screwdriver, lift each end ot the spring into each ot the side qrooves on the underside ofthe plate . • Draw the plate gently toward you and fully engage the spring. • Close slide plate. 82 ~.I_~ 8. Twin-Needle Stitching Twin-needle sewing capability has been built into this sewing machine. The twin-needle simultaneously produces two parallel, closely spaced lines of pattern stitching. Vou can stitch with either one or two colours of thread. • Stitch: Pattern desired • Needle Position: L • Stitch @]. R only Width:~OnIYt • Stitch Length: .5·4 to suit fabric • General Purpose Needle Plate • General Purpose Foot tCAUTION: Do not use a stitcn width greater than what is recommended. A wider sutcn will result in needfe breakage. Procedure • Insert twin-needle. • Thread as for single-needle stitching and through eye of feft needle. • Insert a second spool pm with felt washer into hole on the top cover of rnachine, as illustrated. • Place second spool 01 thread on this spool pm and telt. • Thread the machine in the usual way with lhe second spool 01 thread, making certa in to omit the thread guide ebove the needfe and pass thread through eye of ri}Jht needle. 84 II , I II , I II I; " II II , I " " 11 II II II II " II .", ,. .,•• , I " "" I "I 85 ·., ~~ , , I «·,, .., ·<.<... ·., <.<. ,, , I' I' ·. ~< I' « • I I' I' I' <'< , I I I 9. Home Service Hints Whenever sewing difficulty is encountered, review the sections of the instruction book that explain the operation vou are performing to make sure vou are using the machine carrectly. If the problem still exists, the following checklist may help vou to carrect it. . If vou still have difficu/ties, call your nearest Sewing Centre. Whatto Do II ... Needle Breaks • Make sure needle is fully inserted into needle clamp . . . ... see page 14,15 • Make sure needle is not being pulled to one side as tabríc is removed from the machine . . .. see page 32,33 • Make sure presser foot ar accessory is securely fastened to presser bar see page 12,13 • Make sure fabric is not being pulled while sewing.. . see page 32,3.3 • Make sure stitch width does not exceed ~ when a twin-needle is used . . ... see page 84,85 Thread Breaks • Make sure machine is properly threaded ..... see page 24,25 • Make sure needle-thread tension ís not toa tight .. see page 30,31,40,41 • Make sure thread is unwinding free/y from spool . . . see page 20,21,24,25 • Make sure bobbin case area is free of lint and loose threads . . see page 78,79,80,81 • Make sure the needle straight and sharp 86 is . see page 16,17 Fabric Does Not Feed Properly • Makesurepressertoot is correctlyattachedto machine seepage12,13 • Makesure stltcn lengthdial is correctly set seepage28,29,40,41 • Make sure lint nas not accumulatedaroundfeed seepage78,79 Skipped Stitches • Make sure needle is correct style for machine and sizefor thread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. .. seepage16,17 • Make sure machine is correctlythreaded . . . . seepage24,25 • Make sure needle is securely fastened to needle bar . . . .. seepage14,15 • Make sure the needle is neí: seepage16,17 ther bentnor damaged Fabric Puckers • Makesureneedle-thread ten-: sionis nottoo tight . . . . . . . . seepage30,31,40,41 Needle Thread Breaks While Winding Bobbin • Make sure machine ls correctlythreaded . . ... seepage20,21 • Make sure thread is unwind. .. seepage20,21 ingfreelyfrom spool . . . . . 87 Index Accessories 6,7,8,9 Applique 42,43 Blindslilch Hems 52,53 Bobbin 6,7,20,21 Winding 20,21 Bobbin Case 22,23 Aemoving 22,23 Threading 22,23 Bobbin Thread 20,21,22,23,26,27 Aaising .. .. 26,27 Buttons 74,75 Bunonholes _ 66-73· Posilion : 66-69 Procedure 70-73 Caring for Your Machine 76-83 Cleaning lhe Machine 76-79 Connecling lhe Machine 18,19 Construction Slilches 56,57 Darning 34,35 Decoralive Slilching . . . . . .. .. . .. . . . . . . 62,63 Fabric, Thread and Needle Table 16,17 FeedCover 6,7,14,15 Anaching and Aemoving 14,15 Finishes, Hems and Facings : 56,57 Hand Wheel 4,5 Lighl8ulb :........................................... 82,83 Needle 6,7,14-17,24,25,30,31,38,41 Changing 14,15 Posilion 38,39 ThreadTension : .. 30,31,40,41 Threading 24,25 Needle Plales 6,7,8,9,14,15 Changing Plales 14,15 General Purpose 8,9 Operaling lhe Machine 18,19 Oiling lhe Machine 76,79 Presser Feel 6-13 ChangingFeel 10,11,12,13 Presser Fool Lifter 4,5 Principal Parts , 4,5 Quilling 34,35,60,61 Aeverse Slilching 28,29,32,33 Salin Slilching 40,41 Seams 32,33,54,55 Seam Finishes 44,45 Speed Conlroller 4,5,18,19 Slilch Lenglh 4,5,28,29,38,39,40,41 Slilch Partem Chart 48,49 Slilch Panern Discs 8,9,46-49 Changing 46,47 Stitch Widlh , 4,5,38,39 Slraighl Slilching 28,29 Stretch Fabrics, Adjusling Slilches 50,51 Take-up Lever 4,5 Threading lhe Machine 24,25 Twin-Needle Slilching 84,85 Zig-Zag Slilching 38 88