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Austria
A ROUND TRIP THROUGH THE HIGHLIGHTS
Travelling through Austria always means getting to know some very special
places. Discover the huge diversity of the country and immerse yourself in the
many different worlds that all make Austria unique.
www.austria.info
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Dear reader,
Austria boasts an abundance of spectacular natural
scenery – from the Alps to the Danube to the Pannonian plain.
And in between these, you can discover the many interesting
places and stories that give the country its character.
But to be honest, however impressive the Alps, however
clear the lakes and however idyllic the towns might be, the
thing that ultimately makes a country special are the people
who live there. The Austrians in unique, are well known for
their relaxed way of life and laid-back attitude – and for their
particular brand of humour. You’ll become acquainted with a
very special mentality. And a country that knows how to live.
Sincerely, Petra Stolba
CEO, Austrian National Tourist Office
Table of Contents
page 4
Alpine Inspiration Hiking
on the Berliner Höhenweg.
pag e 12
Six days hiking on one of Austria’s
most spectacular high-altitude trails.
Including stop-overs at mountain
lodges.
page 16
Ranger Experiences
Discovering the Höhe Tauern
National Park
On the Trail of Salt
Looking back on 7,000 years
of history
Visiting the oldest salt
mine in the world.
pag e 20
It’s not just the mountain goat that
lives in its original environment.
Flowing with the Danube
Cycling on a journey back
in time
The Danube cycle path takes you
through stunning natural scenery and
past unique cultural treasures.
Printing Information
Editor and publisher: Austrian Tourist Board, Vordere Zollamtsstraße 13, 1030 Vienna. ZVR-Number: 075857630.
Project Management: Eva Maria Mayrhuber, Dr. Michael Scheuch. Text: Margit Turac, Andreas Kerschbaumer, Michaela Schwarz, Martin Betz, Barbara Moser.
Research: Monika Plank, Sandra Sigl. Prepress: Blaupapier. Printed by: Ueberreuter Print & Packaging GmbH. Status March 2016. Errors and omissions excepted.
A round trip through the highlights
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TIROL
Alpine inspiration
T E X T: M A R T I N B E T Z
Getting up at four a.m. and hiking by head-lamp?
Whoever dreamt up such a ridiculous idea? What…I did? Well
then, what a fabulous idea! My two companions grumpily roll out
from under the covers, and gradually it all comes flooding back:
the previous evening, we had dined in the Berliner Hütte lodge
in the wood-panelled “Rittersaal” (or “Knights’ Hall”) beneath
hand-carved chandeliers, indulging in recollections of the day
and making fresh plans for the next. At this ocean liner amongst
the Alpine shelters, it was easy to come up with high-spirited
ideas. Any number of them, in fact: with pride, we determined
that we had found a use for everything we were carrying in our
rucksacks during the six days on the Berliner Höhenweg. We
listed them: the sleeping bags, which we had used each night,
as we were walking daily from lodge to lodge; the sun-cream we
had needed more than once, particularly the time that we were
all stretched out on the magnificent cotton grass meadow of
the Unterschrahnbach corrie one sunny afternoon. The hat and
gloves came in handy on the steep ridge of the Schönbichlerhorn,
as an icy wind blew round our ears. We even had the benefit of
our earplugs when, one night in the lodges, the distinct sound of
someone sawing could be heard.
The candles, too, got used, even if only to enhance the mood
as we delighted in the magnificent starry sky outside the O
lperer
Hütte. We really had had a use for everything – it was just the
head-lamps, definitely the head-lamps, brought along as additional
lighting for emergency use, which we hadn’t used. And that’s when
we hit on the idea: we wanted to set out before daybreak, so that
we could experience dawn over the Schwarzsee lake. My idea! And
now here we are, standing in the darkness in front of the Berliner
Hütte, this protected building and the “mother of all lodges”, which
can offer such comfort, a soft bed and so much more, and about
to swap it for a pre-dawn adventure in the Zillertal Alps.
4
So much for allowing the schnapps to inspire your thinking! But
after just a few paces, we notice that we aren’t the only ones to
be getting up early. A few metres away, a marmot is whistling,
and a little later on we spot chamois clambering on Rossrugg, a
mountain where until a few decades ago they were still mining for
garnet. The climb through this high moorland is an old mule-track,
used in its day to transport goods from A to B. And not always
entirely legally. Given the hour and the darkness of sleep around
us, we too feel a little like the smugglers, said to have smuggled
wine, tobacco and even car tyres from these parts to Italy.
But now the dawn is breaking, and a thick cloud edges
across the spot where we thought we had detected the sun.
When a gentle drizzle hits us, the displeasure of my two companions seems to be on the point of boiling over. Luckily, though, they
are still too sleepy to be able to articulate it! So, on with the caps
and headgear again. But a little later a strong breeze gets up,
known locally as the “Oberwind”, and edges the thick cloud away.
Before the sun rises, and in just ninety minutes’ walking time,
we succeed in reaching the Schwarzsee, which is now anything
but the black of its name. In the first light of day the glaciers are
mirrored in it, so close you could touch them. And now, in the first
rays of sunlight, the gleaming red rock faces of an entire range of
3,000m peaks – Berliner Spitze, Turnerkamp and Grosser Möseler
– shimmer as they are reflected in the turquoise-blue waters of
this mountain lake. It’s one magnificent spectacle! And right now,
recliners would be just fine! But sitting on the mossy ground is
great too. And the eyes of my companions are shining every bit as
brightly as the rising sun! Sometimes, I think to myself, my ideas
aren’t so bad after all.
BERLINER HÜTTE
P HO TO To u r is m u s v e rb a nd Tux - F i nk e nb er g
The Berliner Höhenweg, high in the
Zillertal Alps, promises pure adventure.
Even at very unusual times of the day.
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P HO TO To u r is m u s v e rb a nd Tux - F i nk e nb er g
IN THE ALPS
From Alpine lodge
to Alpine lodge
Walking the mountains over several days is not just an
opportunity to enjoy an intensive experience of nature, it is
also a kind of philosophy of life, an inner journey, on which you
are constantly challenged to engage with yourself. If you are
committing yourself to extended hikes, there’s one thing above
all you need to bring with you: plenty of time.
Trekking tours require a certain measure of fitness, and you
certainly shouldn’t consider a multi-day tour unless you have done
some training. In terms of equipment, you need both light clothing for good weather and warm clothing, such as a good anorak,
gloves, a woollen hat and rain gear in the event that it turns cold.
It’s equally vital to have a guide and good maps. But the most
important thing is the shoes: medium-weight climbing boots and
a sole with good grip are advisable. For the overnight stays in the
lodges, a sleeping bag is a good idea, and you should carry a towel
too. For members of the Alpine Association (Alpenverein) or other
organisations such as the conservation group Naturfreunde, there
are discounted rates for stays in the lodges run by these bodies.
H O H E TA U E R N N AT I O N A L PA R K H I K I N G PA R A D I S E
STUBAIER HÖHENWEG. This challenging mountain route
crosses the Stubai Alps and offers breathtaking high Alpine views
over the glaciers in this range in Tirol. The Innsbrucker Hütte, at
the starting-point of the route, was built on precisely the transition-
point between two zones of rock: between crystalline rock and
limestone. All eight lodges along the Stubaier Höhenweg are
at over 2,000m above sea level, with opportunities to descend
into the valley from each of the lodges. This means it is possible
to walk just a section of the full route. As well as being in good
physical shape, walkers will need to be sure-footed and have no
fear of heights in order to cope with the climbs, some of which
are secured with ropes. The rewards come in the form of an
incomparable diversity of Alpine flora, magnificent resting-points
beside mountain lakes, peaks offering stunning views into the
far distance, and lodges where regional Tirolean fare awaits.
www.stubaier-hoehenweg.at/de/som/hoehenweg.1.htm/
A LW A Y S G O O D F O R I D Y L L I C V I E W S
O V E R A L L L E N G T H : 1 0 0 K M , M E T R E S C L I M B E D : 8 , 0 0 0 , D A Y S TA G E S : 8 .
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P H OT OS Ö s t er r ei ch We rb u ng , A nd re S ch ö nh er r / re c ht s : Ö st e rr ei c h Wer bun g , P et e r P o dbe ra
Austria’s high-level routes offer plenty of opportunity
for inner reflection and stop-overs. The stops are
provided by a dense network of shelters, or lodges.
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P H OT OS Ö s t er r ei ch We rb u ng , A nd re S ch ö nh er r / re c ht s : Ö st e rr ei c h Wer bun g , P et e r P o dbe ra
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PH OT OS L in ks : Ti ro l We rb u ng , D o m i ni k G ig l er / r ec ht s : T V B S t u ba i , A ndr e S c hö n he rr
ADLERWEG, ON THE TRAIL TO THE STEINSEEHÜTTE
G AT H E R N E W E N E R G Y: R E S T I N G AT A M O U N TA I N L O D G E
THE K ARNISCHE HÖHENWEG in Carinthia
runs along the Austrian-Italian border in a series
of climbs and descents. You should allow
around six days for the full route between the
Plöckenpass and Sillian in East Tirol. Sparse
limestone landscapes alternate here with rich
Alpine meadows – and the cheese that is made
on many of the Alpine farms is a delicious
energiser during your stop-offs en route. But
the real attraction of the Carnic Alps is their
geological make-up; almost nowhere else has
the earth’s history left behind such clear traces
as here. Fossils of mussels, brachiopods and sea
lilies in the rock are impressive evidence that the
Carnic mountains were a gigantic coral reef in an
ancient ocean 365 million years ago. “Geo-trails”,
for instance around the idyllic Wolayer See lake,
feature display boards on nature walks to provide
information about this fossilised evidence of the
formation of the continent, over millions of years.
www.karnischer-hoehenweg.at
PH OT OS L in ks : Ti ro l We rb u ng , D o m i ni k G ig l er / r ec ht s : T V B S t u ba i , A ndr e S c hö n he rr
O V E R A L L L E N G T H : 2 5 0 K M , D A Y S TA G E S : 8 - 1 1 .
THE ADLERWEG (“Eagles’ Route”) is not a circular tour, but
a network of hiking routes that cover the Tirol. Its name derives
from the shape of the routes, which resemble the outstretched
wings of an eagle. The main route runs via 24 stages from
St. Johann in Tirol to St. Anton am Arlberg – a route likely
to take more than three weeks. And if aiming to include the
many regional routes, which extend as far as East Tirol, you
would need to cover a full 1,480 km. The countryside along
the main route between Stages 2 and 8 is especially beautiful,
for example. This section takes several days to complete and
begins “im Koasa” (in the Kaisergebirge mountains), and runs
via Kufstein through extensive areas of upland pasture and the
Rofangebirge before finishing at the Achensee, Tirol’s biggest
lake. www.adlerweg.com
THE ALPE-ADRIA TR AIL is a true longdistance trail, running from the high mountains
to the Adriatic, thereby crossing three countries:
Austria, Italy and Slovenia. It starts in Carinthia and runs from the
highest mountain in Austria, the Grossglockner, via the Nockberg
mountains and the Carinthian lakes to Kranjska Gora in Slovenia,
and from there on to Muggia. With 43 stages and 690 kilometres,
it is not a route to be tackled in one go. The emphasis is on
walking for pleasure. Most stages require around six hours’
walking time, with very few ascents and descents, particularly
in the non-Alpine sections. Each stage features at least one
“Magical Spot”, inviting the walker to stop for a while in a jewel
in the landscape. A number of tourism organisations offer
customised trekking packages, focussing on different themes.
www.alpe-adria-trail.com
O V E R A L L L E N G T H : 7 5 0 K M , D A Y S TA G E S : 4 3 .
SAL ZBURGER ALMENWEG. Salzburg is the land of the
Alpine meadow. There are over 1,800 managed meadows
extending over a quarter of the area of this Federal province.
Over 31 stages, the Salzburger Almenweg links 120 of these
meadows and farms, many of which can provide travellers with
specialities such as local milk, cheese, butter, quark, yoghurt,
bread, bacon or home-distilled schnapps. The route crosses
the whole of the Pongau region, offering fantastic views of
Dachstein, Tennengebirge, Hochkönig and the glacier-filled
world of the Hohe Tauern. Here, too, the advice is to choose
a section of the Almenweg and to put together your own
customised route. Even if it means that you have to forego any
number of meadows and lodges, you will soon discover that
no meadow or farm is like the others. Each one has its own
special features and its own delicious specialities to offer.
www.salzburger-almenweg.at
THE SCHL ADMINGER-TAUERN-HÖHENWEG runs
through one of the most remote and unspoilt mountain landscapes in Austria. Over seven day stages, the walker undertakes
a circular tour of the Schladminger Tauern, in a veritable adventure into nature filled with forests of Swiss pine, wild streams,
extensive uplands and Alpine valleys. The particular charm of
this trail comes from the diverse bodies of water encountered en
route: no fewer than 300 mountain lakes and 150 waterfalls entice
walkers to tarry, to watch and simply to experience. A highlight in
the landscape is the ‘Königsetappe’, through the Klafferkessel to
the Preintaler Hütte. The Klafferkessel is a high plateau carved by
a glacier and home to 30 shimmering mountain lakes of turquoise
blue, dominated by the bizarre rock form of the Greifenstein: it
absolutely demands to be photographed! For all parts of this
trail, the walker needs to have some Alpine experience, to be
sure-footed, and in some places to have a good head for heights.
It is possible to descend into the valley from each of the lodges
along the trail. www.schladming-dachstein.at
O V E R A L L L E N G T H : 3 5 0 K M , D A Y S TA G E S : 3 1 .
O V E R A L L L E N G T H : 7 1 K M , D A Y S TA G E S : 7 .
O V E R A L L L E N G T H ( M A I N R O U T E ) : 3 3 0 K M , D A Y S TA G E S : 2 3 .
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VORARLBERG
The wholeheartedness of life
T E X T: M I C H A E L A S C H W A R Z
The bells ring out across the whole of the village. It’s a
genuine folk festival, as the colourfully-decorated cows are brought
down off the mountains at the end of the summer and progress
past the old shingle-clad houses. Right across the Bregenzerwald,
the end of summer is celebrated in much the same way as here in
the narrow streets of Schwarzenberg, as the cows are welcomed
home. It’s truly a festival for the people – absolutely everyone is
out in the street, and there’s hardly a face that isn’t beaming with
pleasure. However, if a cow dies on the upland pasture during the
summer or in late spring in the lower fields, then the “Almabtrieb”
(or “herding home”) is performed without the decorative touches.
But that practically never happens: it seems that the air here is
too good, the hay too fresh, and the cows too happy – along with
the people. It’s certainly not at all difficult to be very satisfied here,
in this pleasant countryside of green rolling hills, extensive forests
and mountain peaks that are covered in snow until the early
summer. Cheese is omnipresent in the Bregenzerwald – the cows
now lazily trotting home have given their best milk for it all summer
and the dairymen, now likewise garlanded with flowers and
wreaths, have fashioned it by hand up on the mountains, following
an ancient tradition, producing what is known as “Alpkäse”.
“For me, every cheese has a name,” says Hermann
Berchtold from Schwarzenberg, who makes his Bergkäse cheese
by hand even when down in the valley. By that, he means that
every block of cheese is turned and brushed by hand rather
than by machine. “Dairy-making like this is certainly a lot more
physically demanding, but it is also tied to a sense of feel, touch
and taste,” Berchtold says. And it’s something you can taste
too – the fresh, unpasteurised milk and the natural rennin give
the cheese its distinctive, full flavour. The cheerful joie de vivre
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of Vorarlberg can similarly be sensed in its buildings. Across
the whole province, its wood architecture communicates a
comfortable and sensuous enjoyment of life; everywhere, the
visitor can appreciate the high craft skills used with this regional
material. The cradle of this architecture lies in the Bregenzerwald.
The old farmhouses with their wooden shingle facades and the
typical “Schopf” – a kind of conservatory in front of the entrance
– served as the model for this new architecture using natural
materials: now given a contemporary interpretation in a sleek and
elegant style with clear lines.
The people of Vorarlberg exhibit an unpretentious mix of
pride and modesty. The modesty comes from a time when the
province was still poor – a time not all that long ago – while the
pride comes from a resilience which has a longer history. This
fight and resilience is evident, for instance, in the defiant castles
and fortresses in Feldkirch, which is amongst the best-preserved
medieval cities in Austria, or in Hohenems, with the castle ruin of
Alt-Ems and Schloss Glopper castle. The town’s Jewish Museum
reflects the fact that, from the 17th century onward, it was home
to a flourishing Jewish cultural and social life. And there is a
further regional indication of its modesty: its language, where the
diminutive form above all is the rule. The fact that this sweetsounding alphabet soup is practically unintelligible anywhere
else in Austria doesn’t worry the people too much. After all they
naturally switch to using “High German”, the standard form
of the language, whenever necessary.
A L L D R E S S E D U P T O B R I N G T H E C AT T L E D O W N F R O M T H E M O U N TA I N S I N B R E G E N Z E R W A L D
PH OT O B r eg e nze r wa l d To ur i sm us , Ch r is t o p h L in g g
Sometimes, all that’s needed to experience the
joy of living is a good piece of cheese. Perhaps that’s
why people in Vorarlberg are so laid back.
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PH OT O B r eg e nze r wa l d To ur i sm us , Ch r is t o p h L in g g
SALZKAMMERGUT
On the trail
of salt
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another. It must have been an impressive sight back then in the
Salzkammergut: endless beaches with a tropical climate. In fact,
it was so hot that the lagoons that had formed along the coasts
dried out. What was left behind was the salt. And the fact that this
salt, millions of years old, was ultimately enclosed in the mountain
through volcanic eruptions, mountain formation and plate
displacement, so that at some point it can end up in our salt mills
and shakers, is one of the wonders of nature that we will probably
never be able to fully understand.
But hang on – because you do get to understand it:
Alongside a subterranean salt lake, you are plunged into a
spectacular multimedia presentation. The mountains rise directly
out of the water, bathed in a purple-red light, and the conquering
of salt by man is made visible using abstract images on the rock
walls. Including the story of the “Man in the salt”, who was sealed
in the mountain for thousands of years and was reportedly found
here in 1734. Salt, and the constant cool temperature, are the
ultimate reasons why everything is preserved in the mountain.
And that includes a prehistoric, 3,500-year old wooden ladder
that even has adjustable treads. We viewed this on a special
tour, after the children absolutely insisted on a second visit to the
mountain: they wanted more of those thrilling slides!
H A L L S TAT T O N T H E F J O R D - L I K E H A L L S TÄT T E R S E E L A K E
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F O TO ge t t y im a g es / Sa l zw el t en Al t a us s ee / Ös t er r eic h We rb u ng , J u lia K n op p
How did the salt get to the Salzkammergut? We could
ractically touch the answer at the Hallstätter See lake. We only
p
needed to run our gaze along the bank, where nature has left just
enough space for a few houses to be built on the edge of the
mountain slope, and up to the Salzberg that lies practically hidden
behind this spectacular landscape of forest, rocks and water. It
is precisely this mountain that has made the region rich, with its
“white gold” that has been mined here for no less than 7,000 years.
That’s where we are making for – the oldest salt mine in the
world. Firstly by cable-car, and then a ten minute walk to the head
of the mine, along an idyllic forest path, little suspecting that we
are actually walking across a prehistoric grave site. The finds here
were so rich that an entire epoch was named after Hallstatt, the
Hallstatt Period (800 to 400 B.C.). But how did so much salt get
into the Hallstatt mountain – there’s no sea for miles and miles
around…? We find out more after a breath-taking descent into the
mountain, using the mine railway. Awaiting us there are massive,
backlit salt rocks, shimmering seductively in a reddish gold. You
would really like to be a deer and able to lick at it, but as a visitor
it doesn’t seem to be the done thing! Children, in particular, are
absolutely thrilled when the first miners’ chute takes you 50 metres and a horizon lower (horizons being the mining term for the
levels in the mine). Sliding on the seat of your pants, of course!
And finally we’re there – and we have our answer. It is said
to have started 240 million years ago, when the ancient continent
broke apart and the continental plates drifted away from one
PH OT O www. d e. 1 2 3r f .c o m
Salt has brought this country incredible wealth.
And in the oldest salt mine in the world, we dip into
the history of the “white gold”.
F O TO ge t t y im a g es / Sa l zw el t en Al t a us s ee / Ös t er r eic h We rb u ng , J u lia K n op p
PH OT O www. d e. 1 2 3r f .c o m
Salt made Austria
a meeting point for
different cultures.
H A L L S TAT T – I D Y L L I C L A K E S I D E L O C AT I O N , H I S T O R I C B U I L D I N G S
E X P E R I E N C E S A LT I N T H E S A LT M I N E
R O C K S A LT: A P R E C I O U S T R E A S U R E F R O M A U S T R I A
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P HO TO S O be rö st e r re i ch To ur is m us , R ö b l
O R T W AT E R C A S T L E , A P O P U L A R W E D D I N G V E N U E
LEDERHOSEN-MAKER PETER AHAMER, EBENSEE AM TRAUNSEE
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In the heart of Austria. No other
landscape embodies the spirit of the
country as much as the Salzkammergut.
This much beauty cannot be down to chance. 240 million
years of the earth’s history have made the Salzkammergut what
it is today: a unique landscape with a total of 76 lakes of varying
sizes. They are very cool, and can only be considered as bathing
lakes on really hot days in summer. But they captivate with their
abundance of fish life, their clean water and clear visibility.
HAPPY TIMES AND “GRÜNGEFL AMMTES” GREEN
STRIPE POT TERY ON THE TR AUNSEE
Crossing the Traunsee on the “Gisela”, the world’s oldest coalfired paddle-steamer, it’s easy to see why the Romans called
this lake “lacus felix”, the happy lake. With the mighty Traunstein massif not far from its shores, it nestles in a unique natural
setting. And you absolutely should not miss out on visiting the
town of Gmunden. The esplanade alone, where you can stroll
along the shore of the lake, already radiates the feeling of urbane
sophistication that characterises the town. You can trace this rich
tradition, too, with a visit to the Gmunden ceramics factory, which
has operated here for 300 years.
FISH SPECIALIT Y AT ORT CASTLE
Seeschloss Ort is a castle with water defences built in the Traunsee; it is around 1,000 years old, and has a strongly-fortified white
tower with a wood shingle. Ort castle is not only one of the country’s most popular wedding locations, but also a culinary hot-spot.
It’s where chef Johann Parzer likes setting up his charcoal barbecue by the lakeside terrace and preparing a unique fish speciality:
“Riedling”. This fish is barbecued on small skewers. Now only
found in Lake Baikal in Siberia and in the Traunsee, it is reputed to
be a survivor from the ancient ocean, which means it has lived in
these waters for at least 240 million years. For its impressive age,
it also tastes astonishingly good.
P HO TO S O be rö st e r re i ch To ur is m us , R ö b l
SPORT AND INSPIR ATION: THE AT TERSEE
A veritable hot-spot for water sports enthusiasts! For their part,
sailors love the “Rosenwind”, a steady easterly that guarantees
untroubled sailing and windsurfing pleasure, while divers enthuse
about underwater visibility of up to 25 metres. The soft light and
the landscape have also inspired famous artists. The composer
Gustav Mahler spent his summer days in Steinbach am Attersee,
and Gustav Klimt refined his landscape painting here. Today,
art-lovers can follow the theme trail “Klimt am Attersee” and walk
in the steps of this great artist.
A L AKE WITH A VIE W: THE WOLFG ANGSEE
The magic of the shimmering turquoise Wolfgangsee lies primarily in the places that line its banks. For instance, St. Wolfgang
with its narrow old town streets and the famous “Weisses Rössl”
hotel with its wonderful lakeside terrace. St. Gilgen radiates a
relaxed holiday mood, while Strobl appeals above all to walking
enthusiasts. Here, you can walk the Bürglsteinweg – in places on
wooden jetties above the water – and take in a tour of the local
mountain. There is also a walking route up the Schafberg near
St. Wolfgang, although most people choose the comfortable way
up using the steepest steam-powered rack railway in Austria. All
are rewarded with a breathtaking view of no fewer than 13 of the
lakes in the Salzkammergut.
THE FJORD OF THE ALPS: THE HALLSTÄT TER SEE
Whitefish, charr, lake trout – all these delicious wild fish can be
found in practically every lake in the Salzkammergut. The same is
true of the Hallstätter See, which enjoys an exceptional wealth of
fish due to its impressive depth of 125 metres. On a boat tour, you
can take in the view of what is probably one of the prettiest places
in the world: Hallstatt – so pretty that it has even been reconstructed in China. But the original cannot be beaten: the old houses and
inns cling in picturesque fashion to the mountain slopes. The fact
that the name “Hall” is the old Germanic word for salt also explains
the ancient cultural and economic history of Hallstatt, where salt is
still mined today in the oldest salt mine in the world.
LIVING TR ADITIONS
Wherever you go, the Salzkammergut breathes history. You find
it expressed, above all, in the customs of the region, and in the
old craft traditions that are still practised. Nowhere else in Austria
does traditional costume enjoy such respect as it does here. In
the Styrian part of the Salzkammergut, in the Ausseerland region,
you can find the best costume workshops in the country. It’s where
the colourful dirndl fabrics are still produced by hand-printing.
Each dirndl is individually adjusted to fit the wearer. And no less
traditional are the “Goiserer” – a leather shoe with a double stitch
known as a “Zwienaht”, which first saw the light of day in Bad
Goisern 140 years ago, as the first mountain boot.
AN ADVENTURE FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY
If heading on to Salzburg following a circular tour through the
Salzkammergut, two special places really merit a stop-off on the
way. The first is at Werfen, where the 900-year old fortress of
Burg Hohenwerfen rises up atop a steep outcrop of rock. Take an
adventure tour, and dive into the world of the Middle Ages, before
rounding off the visit with a flying display, largely featuring native
birds of prey. Only a few kilometres away lies one of the biggest
ice caverns in the world, Eisriesenwelt Werfen. On the guided
tours of this impressive labyrinth of caves, bizarre ice formations
on a gigantic scale lie in wait: icicles arranged like organ-pipes,
ice mountains with a 70-metre girth, figures that sometimes
resemble the shaggy outline of a polar bear, and sometimes the
veil of an ice queen – there’s plenty of scope for a subterranean
journey into the realm of the imagination!
AND THE CROWNING CONCLUSION: SAL ZBURG
Reaching Salzburg, you dive into a different world again: the old
town, with its cathedral square and archiepiscopal residence, is
probably amongst the most beautiful Baroque ensembles in the
world, and the Getreidegasse with its wonderful facades invites
the visitor to shop, to look, and be amazed. New historical and
cultural highlights lie in wait at every corner. A visit to the house
where Mozart was born and lived should definitely feature in any
visit to Salzburg, as should a tour of the strongly-fortified castle
of Hohensalzburg, from where princes and archbishops ruled
over the city or where, if they were unlucky, they were also held
prisoner. Incidentally, they owed their wealth to that valuable raw
material that was extracted from the Salzkammergut: salt – for
centuries, the most important source of revenue for the city with
its impregnable castle, hence Salzburg.
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01.07.16 10:04
H O H E TA U E R N N AT I O N A L PA R K
Ranger experiences
A herd is coming this way,” whispers Andreas, peering
through his field scope. He gestures to the visitors to get ready
with their binoculars. Through the lens, we see mountain goats
charging around at dizzying heights. Something that, in the past,
you would never have seen, the trained National Park ranger
explains: “For a long time, mountain goats were extinct here
in the Ködnitztal valley. But now they have been successfully
reintroduced.” The same goes for other endangered species,
from rare butterflies to the golden eagle – with a little luck,
you can spot them on a nature watch tour in Kals. “Showing
visitors how the animals live in their original environment” is what
Andreas hopes to achieve, and he underlines the point with his
next sentence: “As a National Park ranger, I am the intermediary
between man and nature.”
Experiencing the drama of nature close up and unmediated
is something best achieved alongside an experienced ranger in
the Hohe Tauern National Park. The guides can tell you about the
flora and fauna in this, the biggest nature conservation area in
the entire Alpine region – and about the 266 3,000-metre peaks
encircling it, or the 279 streams, the 26 waterfalls, the 551 lakes
and the 10 gorges contained in it.
Any time that the harsh winter has taken hold in the high
Alps marks the time for Alpine snow-shoe walks. For instance, on
this November day, where the matt light gently caresses the majestic rocks. Equipped with provisions and weatherproof clothing,
the young ranger Anna is setting off with a six-strong group on a
tour to the Virgental in East Tirol. The expedition takes four hours,
and during it the disturbance to the wild animals is to be kept to a
minimum. “The animals’ energy reserves are very low in any case
at this time of year,” Anna knows. With a delicately light tread, the
16
group moves over the deep snow of the fields and forests, to
see chamois and mountain goats, eagles and bearded eagles.
“There’s a plant to cure every ailment,” smiles ranger
Matthias. He is standing bent over a rich green summer meadow,
and in his hand he is holding the colourful medicinal plants.
One person in his party wants to know what they are used for.
“St. John’s wort is effective against depressive moods, and arnica
against muscle tears,” the expert reveals. The walkers are on
a herb walk through Prägraten. The East Tirolean countryside
through which they pass is picturesque, and the “Sajatmähder”
(unspoilt traditional farmland) they are walking over is rich with
growth. At the end of the outing, the treasures they have gathered
are made into spreads and tinctures.
Two of the visitors acknowledge with a smile that they are
serial walkers. They have done similar walks with guides several
times in the National Park. The last time was on a particularly
impressive tour to the Innergschlöss, which more than a few
people consider to be the most beautiful valley head in the
Eastern Alps. However, they prefer to save up the two-day glacier
trip for next year. “For that one, not only do you need to be fit,
but you also need a degree of bravery,” explains Andreas. Why?
Because you let yourself be lowered directly into a crevasse on
the Teischnitzkees glacier, using an abseiling rope.
“No worries, though – we bring everyone back up safely,”
jokes the ranger. And somehow you readily believe this guardian
of the protected countryside space.
N AT U R E W AT C H I N T H E H O H E TA U E R N N AT I O N A L PA R K
PH OT O © Ös t e r re i ch Wer b u ng , C hr i s t o p h S ch o ec h
Forests, fields and mountains are their patch. Trained
rangers guide nature-lovers to discover the most u
nspoilt
corners of the Hohe Tauern National Park.
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PH OT O © Ös t e r re i ch Wer b u ng , C hr i s t o p h S ch o ec h
01.07.16 10:04
PH OT OS Ös t er r ei ch We r bu ng , S ea n B y r ne , J uli u s S i lv e r
Jewels of nature in the National Park.
PH OT OS Ös t er r ei ch We r bu ng , S ea n B y r ne , J uli u s S i lv e r
Ancient Alpine villages, grandiose panoramas,
waterfalls, and much more.
Up and away: the Grossglockner cable-cars
are the comfortable way to be transported to a
fascinating high Alpine landscape. As you ride, a
panoramic view of Austria’s highest mountain and over
50 additional 3,000-metre peaks opens up. A steep
delight is guaranteed by the Reisseck funicular railway,
carrying passengers over inclines of up to 82%. It
runs to a mountain restaurant, where visitors can take
refreshment after this dizzying tour. Pure nostalgia is
the promise of the Panoramabahn Kreuzeck, which
dates from 1956. Passing the Rosswiese reservoir, the
visitor is free to explore a particularly impressive area of
walks in the Kreuzeck range of mountains.
How does life come about? And how can it exist
in the high mountains? The BIOS National Park Centre
Mallnitz investigates its diverse forms and incarnations
in various exhibitions. In the National Park Worlds
Mittersill, visitors can take a sensory walk through the
protected mountain region. At eight adventure stations,
visitors are guided through the world of the Alps, past
the Grossglockner, the glaciers and waterfalls.
Adventure-lovers can tackle a thrilling canyoning or rafting
tour on the Isel or Möll rivers. Thundering wild water, steeply-rising
rock walls and remote gorges make this trip a spectacular nervejangler. And a worry-free one: experienced guides are on hand to
keep you safe on the water.
Adrenalin combined with a panoramic view: the Osttirodler
is a spectacular Alpine coaster. Taking in countless steep curves,
this toboggan run takes you straight down to the valley floor from
the Lienz ski area of Hochstein. Fun Alpin is the name of another
summer toboggan run in the region. It starts alongside Wildpark
Assling and runs beside the grazing stags and deer.
In Flattach in Carinthia, you will find one of the most
impressive natural gorges in the Alps, the Raggaschlucht. The
Raggabach forces its way between steep walls of rock, while
visitors observe the drama and pass through it on dizzyinglyhigh walkways. Another action paradise is the water adventure
park at Galitzenklamm, with a variety of offers to suit the whole
family which range from challenging climbing routes to a ‘water
spectacular’ trail. Anyone looking for a spot of relaxation after the
demanding ascent to the Kitzsteinhorn will find it in an area of fully
20,000 m². Located right at the heart of the National Park area,
the Spa Zell am See – Kaprun invites visitors to relax in the most
magnificent of styles. The region has a number of such offers of
rest and regeneration, including at the Alpentherme Gastein.
The Hollersbacher Kräutergarten is a little paradise for
gourmets. This journey of discovery leads visitors through a berrypicking maze and past stars and moons of herbs, in a display of
over 500 different species and varieties of plant.
K R I M M L W AT E R F A L L S
GROSSGLOCKNER HIGH ALPINE ROAD
In Lienz, the picturesque capital of East Tirol, the visitor can
stroll and wander through medieval streets. Or experience
culture in its purest form at Schloss Bruck: the castle houses the
extensive town museum and the Albin Egger Lienz gallery. High
above the ‘sunshine town’, as Lienz is often called, perches the
former seat of the Counts of Görz.
The clocks in St. Jakob in Defereggental tick traditionally.
Each year in June, seas of flowering Alpine roses colour the area
around the Obersee on the Staller Sattel in stunning shades of
every kind of red. This spectacle of nature is celebrated with an
exhilarating Alpine Rose Festival. Dancing and music, folk groups,
traditional Schuhplattler dances, a craft village and a colourful
programme of children’s events are all part of the fun.
The mountain village of Heiligenblut is modest – and yet
imposing: it lies at the foot of a giant – the Grossglockner rises up
majestically over it, fully 3,798 metres at its peak.
Mountain-lovers can climb this rock giant, setting out from
Heiligenblut; the Grossglockner High Alpine Trail also starts here.
This most famous of the high Alpine trails leads off on a climb
with an elevation gain of 2,504 metres, 36 sharp bends and
covering a length of 48 km right in the heart of the National Park.
The panorama is incomparable: with the Grossglockner and the
Pasterze glacier in view, the walker passes through verdant Alpine
meadows, gleaming forests, eternal ice and a majestic mountain
world. The Krimml Waterfalls are amongst the most-visited sights
in Austria. And with good reason: with a 380m drop, they are the
highest in Europe, and the fifth-highest in the world.
Searching for treasure? Then a visit to Rauris in Salzburg
province is well worth it. Not for nothing is this village known as
the “Dorf der Geier und Goldsucher” – the village of vultures and
gold-panners: in the past, it was the biggest gold mine in Europe
– and the highest gold mine in the world, to boot! The golden
days are over, although amateur enthusiasts can still pan for gold
in the Rauriser Ache and find small traces of this valuable metal.
The prospects are sparkling: you can take the treasure you find
home with you at the end of the day.
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01.07.16 10:04
THE DANUBE VALLEY
Flowing with
the Danube
T E X T: A N D R E A S K E R S C H B A U M E R
You have to concede one point about the people in Upper
Austria: they are warm-hearted people – and they don’t hide their
pride in who they are. “That Johann Strauss certainly knew what
he was composing there,” the landlord says to us. One hundred
and fifty years ago, the said Johann Strauss composed the waltz.
But the original title of the piece was “An der schönen blauen
Donau” (“On the beautiful blue Danube”). Many say that it is the
unofficial anthem of the country. And for the people of Upper Austria, it serves to sing the sweetest of praises in honour of “their”
Danube. Rightly so? That’s something we were going to find out –
and with a mode of travel that is ideally suited to a river landscape: the bike. And we are not disappointed – on the contrary.
The Danube is not blue everywhere, but it is beautiful.
Along with the countryside around it, which is gently hilly, with
natural forests. Somehow, you get the feeling that you are being
propelled along rather than pedalling. Maybe it’s just a trick of the
powerful flowing river that is travelling by alongside us heading in
the same direction, and which transports us with it in our mind’s
eye. Be that as it may, after four or five kilometres the most wonderful feeling overcomes us. Our movements have long become
instinctive, and we no longer need to think about them. So we
are free to take in everything else that much more intensively.
The splashing of the river, the chirruping sounds of the crickets,
the scents – and the many treasures found en route. The small
villages with their narrow alleys and romantic old towns, Grein,
Maria Taferl. The many ruins, projecting high up from out of the
trees. And then a wonder of nature: the Schlögener Schlinge. It’s
where the Danube turns in a 180-degree loop. We climb a short
way up, to view it from above. We are rewarded with an incomparable spectacle of nature in the evening sun, played out right
in front of us. The quotation that is engraved here is absolutely
fitting: “Wenn du den Blick zur Donau senkst, dabei an etwas
Liebes denkst, kurz, still verharrst wie im Gebet, ein Wunsch dir
20
in Erfüllung geht.” (“As your gaze lowers to the Danube, think
of something special, and silently as if in prayer, a wish feels
like it‘s been fulfilled”) At that moment, you really don’t have to
wish for anything else.
The next day, and we are off again. Once again, the
force of the river’s flow carries us with it. And then we reach
it – the Wachau, a World Heritage Site. A dreamlike riverscape,
sprinkled with apricot trees, radiant in their glistening white
blossom and giving off such a powerful fragrance. On one side
of the Danube the forests rise up, and on the other the vineyards. Although vineyards is not really the right term. These are
wine-growing terraces carved into the rock, their graphic lines
winding their way over the countryside on these steep slopes.
Everywhere, or so it seems, is about apricots and wine. In the
picturesque, medieval villages there are small, idyllic shops
selling apricot products, and ancient Heurigen (wine-growers’
restaurants). If there really were an “Island of the Blessed”, then
it would be here. Somehow, we get the impression that the
people here have no worries. And certainly not the wine-maker
in the Heuriger in Dürnstein. “Up there, we do everything by
hand – you can’t get a tractor up there; and that’s what makes
the wine so unique,” he says, gesturing in the direction of the
slopes of his vineyard.
The wine-makers here are absolutely the most eloquent
chroniclers of their wines – and of their homeland. That’s something we really appreciate now. After all, we were just intending
to stop off for a short while, but we’ve been sitting here for
over two hours now. We are delighting in the full-bodied Grüner
Veltliner wine, looking up at the impressive blue church tower,
and down to the Danube, which rolls by unstoppably. That Herr
Strauss was right. Even if the Danube is not always blue.
O N T H E D A N U B E C Y C L E PAT H B Y G R E I N
PH O T O Ös t e r re ic h Wer b un g , P et er B u rg s t a ll e r
A cycle tour along the Danube – it’s like a
journey back in time. Until eventually you reach
the vineyards of the Wachau region.
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PH O T O Ös t e r re ic h Wer b un g , P et er B u rg s t a ll e r
The Danube is the only major European river that flows
from west to east. This made it one of the continent’s
most important trading routes – and contributed to the
glorious history of the surrounding areas.
THE SCHLÖGENER SCHLINGE
The Schlögener Schlinge is where the Danube turns through
180 degrees, in a tight loop. This loop in the river is not only
officially a “natural wonder of Upper Austria”. If you stand at the
observation point and look down on the unique spectacle of
nature, your breath is momentarily taken away. There really is
something magical about it. www.oberoesterreich.at
GREIN
The place where the mighty Danube combines with the ancient,
gentle landscape of the hills. It’s one of the most idyllic places on
the Danube, and has an interesting cultural history to offer. That’s
courtesy of the Schloss Greinburg, which has presided over
the town for 500 years. Or the shipping museum. Here you can
discover why shipping was the most important source of income
until 100 years ago, and how the town flourished as a result. In
fact, it was the reason why the people of Grein could afford to
build the castle at all. www.grein.info
MARIA TAFERL
This major pilgrimage site really does have a sense of the mystical
about it. And not simply on account of the 17th-century legend.
The legend has it that a badly injured herdsman was instantly
healed when the sign of the cross was placed upon him, and a
local judge was cured of his deep depression. Whether true or not,
the village with its pilgrimage basilica is still sought out today, high
above the Danube valley. And affording a magnificent panoramic
view over the entire chain of the Alps. www.mariataferl.at
MELK
It is a drama. As the morning sun illuminates the Benedictine
Abbey of Melk, the effect is that of a colossal and wonderful
monument being brought to life. Stift Melk is the biggest
preserved Baroque building in Austria. And it is the emblem of
the Wachau region, which has been a UNESCO World Heritage
Site since 2000. One of the most astonishing natural landscapes
in the world lies beneath your feet here. The steep and terraced
vineyards are a distinctive feature of the landscape. In some
places, they can only be maintained by the wine-growers by
hand, due to the incline of the slope. During the Wachau MarillenFrühling (literally, ‘Apricot Spring‘), the apricot trees blossom in
a brilliant white along the Danube, giving off a wonderful scent.
www.stiftmelk.at
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RUINE AGGSTEIN
The Ruine Aggstein is situated on a steep rocky outcrop above
the Danube. It is one of the most famous knights’ castles in
Austria. A mystical adventure, with hidden stairs and towers, a
dungeon, a knights’ hall and a chapel. Not only is the view back
into the Middle Ages legendary, but so is the view down into the
Danube valley and to the Dunkelsteiner Wald.
www.ruineaggstein.at
DÜRNSTEIN
Embodies the charm of the Wachau: a small medieval town
directly alongside the Danube, nestled down in the steep slopes
of the Wachau vineyards. With narrow streets and a wonderful
collegiate church with its distinctive blue-white tower. Presided
over by the Ruine Dürnstein, where the English King Richard the
Lionheart was held prisoner. The ruin is freely accessible today.
www.duernstein.at
KREMS
When you come from the Wachau to Krems, you sense it: this is
a place of contrasts. It is also a place where eccentric artists are
at work. It starts immediately at the new Danube landing stage of
Krems-Stein, also called the “Gateway to the Wachau”. The landing stage is accordingly designed as an oversized metal gateway.
Not far from this, the art gallery combines modernity and tradition:
a site that accommodated a large tobacco factory in the 19th
century today exhibits contemporary art. The Museum of Caricatures just opposite is similarly modern in style. These contemporary architecture projects lend special effect to the many historical
buildings. The Steinertor gate marks the entrance to the town’s
heritage of architecture, most notably the Dominican church and
the fortified mansion of the Gozzoburg on the Hoher Markt. The
Gozzoburg is one of the most important medieval town centre
buildings in Austria.
www.krems.info
STIF T KLOSTERNEUBURG
At the Stift Klosterneuburg, the visitor simply has to dismount and
go inside. The view alone of this stunning building is a true gift: a
mix of medieval and Baroque architecture styles, nestling against
the vineyard-covered slopes of Klosterneuburg. Behind the walls
hides one of the most valuable treasures in the country: the
Verdun Altar, erected by Nicholas of Verdun in 1181, is one of the
largest preserved Romanesque gold work artefacts. The invitation
to partake of a glass of wine is also easy to accept. It turns out
that the Stift Klosterneuburg owns the oldest vineyard in Austria.
And with vines planted over an area of 108 hectares, it is also
amongst the largest in the country. www.stift-klosterneuburg.at
01.07.16 10:04
P HO TO S Ö s t er r ei ch We rb u ng , Po p p H a c kne r, Ma r i us H öf in g er, Wo lf ga ng S cha rd t
LINZ
A city as an expression of openness to new things, colourful living
and as a place of encounters. In earlier times, Linz was known
as a “grey” industrial city, but today it is an innovative city of art
and culture. And a meeting-point at the heart of Europe – in many
respects. Firstly, because Linz has always been an attraction, as
a city on the Danube and lying on the most important trade route
across Europe. And then because its modern, contemporary
buildings such as the Ars Electronica Center, the Lentos Art
Museum or the new opera house exist in an inspired symbiosis
with the city’s architectural heritage. In short: Linz is a city that
pulses. www.linz.at/Tourismus
P HO TO S Ö s t er r ei ch We rb u ng , Po p p H a c kne r, Ma r i us H öf in g er, Wo lf ga ng S cha rd t
The Danube valley
has ruins, castles and
monasteries on every
bend
BURGRUINE AGGSBACH
THE GOZZOBURG IN KREMS
WACHAU APRICOTS IN FLUFFY APRICOT DUMPLINGS
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01.07.16 10:04
The Danube, a source of culture.
THE ARS ELECTRONICA CENTER IN LINZ
E XHIBITIONS IN BURG SCHALL ABURG
The Renaissance castle is an architectural highlight – and a
cultural one: every year, it houses major exhibitions. Its special
exhibitions on historical events are particularly impressive.
www.schallaburg.at
BAROCK TAGE MELK
The Baroque Days in Melk mean leading international ensembles
performing in a World Heritage setting. “A feast for the eyes and a
dream for the ears,” the organisers write. And that’s spot-on. The
settings for these artistic offerings are the stunning Melk Abbey
church, the garden pavilion and the nearby Schloss Pielach.
www.kultur-melk.at
THE MARILLENKIRTAG IN THE WACHAU
The Marille, or apricot, is the culinary emblem of the Wachau. And
it is a synonym for the culture of living. In summer, they celebrate
the apricot at the legendary Marillenkirtage. A festival mood fills
the air in the small, medieval towns, as the locals show their
visitors the specialities they prepare using these Wachau apricots:
Marillenknödel (apricot dumplings), jam, schnapps, cakes. There
is folk dancing and singing – and, naturally, Wachau wine to drink.
As a visitor, it’s then that you understand what the expression
“Wachauer Lebensfreude” (“Wachau joie de vivre“) is all about.
www.wachauermarille.at
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“GL AT T UND VERKEHRT” IN KREMS
“Glatt & Verkehrt” is one of the most pleasant music festivals in
the country, with performers from all over the world who engage
in original, humorous and surprising ways with their own musical
roots. The outcome of this is original and traditional styles of
music, mixed with contemporary currents – and with the broad
diversity of music from all over the world. The performance venues
for the festival are local Heurige (wine-growers’ restaurants) in the
Wachau, the Schloss zu Spitz an der Donau, the Minoritenkirche
in Krems and the Stift Göttweig. Inspiring venues with inspiring
music. It’s the stuff of life. www.glattundverkehrt.at
GR AFENEGG FESTIVAL
A summer’s day in Grafenegg could look like this: a visit to the
castle, followed by a walk through the English country garden.
Carrying the picnic basket that has been put together with your
own favourites in the picnic pavilion. A shaded spot under one
of the centuries-old trees on the castle lawns. And then your
senses are free to take in an open-air concert in the sculptural
“Wolkenturm” or in the auditorium, during the Grafenegg Classical
Festival. In the evening, you can also treat yourself to a glass of
Kamptal wine in the castle tavern. www.grafenegg.com
ARCHÄOLOGISCHER PARK CARNUNTUM
A visit to the Carnuntum Archaeological Park is like a journey
back in time to the 4th century AD. In ancient times, the Roman
camp of Carnuntum was part of the province of Pannonia. Today,
the main types of architecture in a Roman town district have
been reconstructed: a town house, a villa and a public baths.
These reconstructions are no imaginary buildings or museum
pieces. They are houses that can be lived in, fitted out with a
Roman underfloor heating system (hypocaust) and a kitchen with
functioning ovens. www.carnuntum.co.at
01.07.16 10:04
PH O TO S Ös t e r re i ch Wer b u ng , P et e r B u rg st a l le r / g et t y im a g e s
ARS ELECTRONICA FESTIVAL
The Ars Electronica Festival is one of the most important festivals
for media art worldwide. It makes Linz an interface for art, digital
technology and society. More than 200 individual events work with
great creativity, idealism and a high degree of specialist knowledge
towards shaping an alternative future. www.aec.at/festival
PH O TO St a d t Li n z
BRUCKNER FESTIVAL
The world-famous composer Anton Bruckner found the
inspiration for his symphonies in Linz. At the Bruckner Festival in
September, the grand master of the symphony is again brought to
life, at least musically. A sensational auditory experience in Linz,
the city of Bruckner. www.brucknerfest.at
DONAUFESTIVAL IN KREMS
At its Festival of the Danube, Krems comes up with
any number of surprises. The town entertains with an
exciting mix of exotic dance, theatre and cutting-edge
music. It’s anything but mainstream. The organisers
are especially on the lookout for the (as yet) unknown,
with a wealth of self-created works that can only be
experienced here. But the programme always features
major international stars too. For instance, Rufus
Wainwright launched one of his albums in Krems, the Melvins
performed a much celebrated show, Peaches brought their
techno-punk here in 2010, and in 2011 John Cale was a visiting
artist. www.donaufestival.at
PH O TO S Ös t e r re i ch Wer b u ng , P et e r B u rg st a l le r / g et t y im a g e s
PH O TO St a d t Li n z
ROOFTOP WALK IN LINZ
S P I R A L S TA I R C A S E AT M E L K A B B E Y
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01.07.16 10:04
CARINTHIA
Diving into
the land of the lakes
What drives someone to dive into the flowing waters
of a mountain lake at night? The fascination of an
The last of the sun’s rays bathe the meadows and forests
around the Weissensee in a warm light as we get into our diving
suits. Not a sound is to be heard, apart from the chirping of the
crickets – the eternal soundtrack to summer nights. The cloudless
sky promises a clear, starry night, and my heart races that bit
faster. After all, it means that the nearly-full moon will accompany
us with its play of light as we go night diving. Even so, we still
need an underwater lamp to explore the fascinating world of the
Weissensee at night, particularly for the deeper reaches. Even if
it might sound paradoxical, the special attraction of night diving
lies precisely in this limited field of vision. You only see the things
that pop up in the circle formed by the lamp – but you experience
them all the more intensively. Particularly as the colours of the
animals and plants, illuminated by the light from just a short
distance, seem stronger.
Now, just a check on the equipment – compressed air,
diving compass, depth meter, lead belt – and good to go. We dive
into the glass-clear water for which the Weissensee is renowned
far beyond Austria. After only a few metres, I perceive a silhouette
out of the corner of my eye. A pike is lurking elegantly between
the stems of the reeds, probably seeking out its prey. It won’t be
the only resident of these waters that we spot: many nocturnal
predators are now out hunting, and because they rarely exhibit a
flight response they make particularly good viewing.
Seemingly weightless, we drift through this secretive, silent
world. We are already approaching our target: the beautiful field
of water lilies in front of the lakeside pool – an almost surreal
underwater garden that also provides concealment for many small
26
fish. The sunken forest that we had explored the previous day had
also been fascinating to see. The old trees that have fallen into
the water over the course of time now offer the ideal environment
for roach and carp. The special thing about the Weissensee is not
just its unspoilt world of plants and animals, but also its crystalclear water, enabling divers to see up to 15 metres during the day.
Thanks to its emerald-green water, many people refer to the lake
as the “Caribbean of the Alps” – an impression that is boosted
by the fact that around two-thirds of the lake’s shores have no
buildings.
Wow – what was that? Suddenly a crab looms up in the
circle of light. A brief second of fright, and it disappears with
astonishing agility behind a stone, to hide itself away from our
curious gaze. It’s incredible how alive the Weissensee is at night.
A lake trout swims past, and a young perch hidden in the reeds
is eyeing us up from a safe distance. But time is once again
far too short: we already need to head back. As we surface,
thousands of stars are glittering in the sky – and simultaneously
on the surface of the water, where they are reflected. Later, over
a cool beer, we will be bursting to share our impressions with one
another. But now, in the silence of this summer night, we climb
quietly out of the water. As if we might preserve the magic of the
underwater world just that little bit longer by doing so.
C R Y S TA L C L E A R A N D D E E P B L U E : W E I S S E N S E E L A K E
PH O T O Ös t e r re ic h Wer b un g , P et er Po d p er a
untouched, mystical world full of magic images.
01.07.16 10:04
PH O T O Ös t e r re ic h Wer b un g , P et er Po d p er a
01.07.16 10:04
STYRIA
Pithy, authentic,
Styrian
Pumpkin seed oil from Styria has character – just like the
people who make it. And the best way to convince yourself of
that is directly on the farm.
28
Back to the Bauernhof Grain, where the magnificent smell of
roasted chestnuts is gradually filling the air. The nuts are roasted
in the open yard, over the embers; in just the same way as
the freshly-harvested “Woazn” – that being the local name for
the corn cobs that taste so wonderful with butter and salt. To
accompany this, as always at this time of year, a glass of “Sturm”
– the fruity, cloudy, young wine following the first fermentation,
which is so well-matched to the flavour of the chestnuts.
Where the “Sturm” is a transitional product between the freshpressed juice and wine, the latter has long enjoyed international
recognition.
After pumpkin seed oil, Styrian wine is the region’s secondbiggest sales and export performer. And you can find a number
of wineries immediately in the area. Once you have tasted the
outstanding Weissburgunder or Welschriesling directly from the
neighbouring wine-maker, you won’t want to be leaving any time
soon. Then again, that could be down to the welcome extended
by the people in Styria. For instance, as you learn a few of the
stories about the region whilst sitting out in the sun and sipping
with pleasure at your wine – this time a full-bodied Chardonnay.
You’ve already decided that this certainly won’t be your last visit
to the “land of the pumpkin seed”. And, by the same token,
you’ve decided to take a couple of bottles of the “green gold”
with you on your journey home.
P HO TO S S t e ier m a r k To ur i s m us , H a rr y S c hi ff er, Pi x el m a ke r
It’s one of those stunning autumn days when the air seems
glass-clear and the colourful crowns of the trees are sparkling
in the gentle sunlight. Grandma Grain is sitting on a stool in the
fields, in her indestructible kitchen apron, cleaning pumpkins. She
does it every year, and has been doing it for so many years she
can no longer recall when she first did it. It’s true that only a small
volume of the produce is cleaned by hand these days, but the
ritual is simply a part of the autumn – just like the shiny chestnuts
lying amongst the leaves. You could be excused for thinking that
the main purpose was to get at the flesh of the pumpkin, but the
precise opposite is true: it’s the seeds that are the real treasure in
this fruit, because – gathered in their thousands, milled, kneaded,
roasted and pressed – they supply the delicious pumpkin seed oil.
It’s an oil with character. And, like the Grain family, there are
many “seed oil farmers” here in the region, where you can sample
and purchase this “green gold” direct. Trying it for the first time,
you are likely to be surprised. The fine nutty flavour is so intense,
and the dark green colour so unusual. This oil has character,
no question – and it will secure a firm place in the hearts and
pantries of all gourmets, at the latest with your second sampling,
perhaps as a dip with a piece of crispy bread or a dressing for
a delicately flavoursome endive salad. It’s also a purely natural
product, and one whose high content of vitamins, minerals and
unsaturated fatty acids make it a winner on the nutrition front. The
prestige surrounding pumpkin seed oil has grown enormously:
for example, a farmer in the Murtal valley was not allowed to call
his seed oil “Styrian”, purely because it did not originate from a
traditional pumpkin-growing area.
01.07.16 10:04
P HO TO S S t e ier m a r k To ur i s m us , H a rr y S c hi ff er, Pi x el m a ke r
THE PUMPKIN CAN BE FOUND ALMOST EVERYWHERE IN SOUTHERN STYRIA
P U M P K I N S E E D O I L : S T Y R I A’ S G R E E N G O L D
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01.07.16 10:04
DINING DELIGHTS IN THE AUSSEER L AND
First, you can appreciate the flair of the Imperial age by visiting
the historic Imperial villas, and afterwards treat yourself to a
crispy fried lake charr. Valued for its delicate, light pink flesh, the
tasty charr is also often served smoked over beechwood – true
poetry. For dessert, how about visiting the neighbouring Upper
Austrian town of Bad Ischl: the legendary “Zaunerstollen” from
the cake-maker’s of the same name is still one of the shop’s
most popular specialities today. And if that whets your appetite,
visitors to the Konditorei Zauner can choose from the biggest
cake buffet in Austria.
THE WORLD’S BIGGEST MONASTERY LIBR ARY
The collected knowledge of the centuries, gathered together
and archived in their respective periods. Described in the 19th
century as the “eighth wonder of the world”, the library still has
the capacity to amaze today: 7 domed vaults and 70,000 books
over a run of 70 metres – the dimensions alone are impressive.
If you then cross the fine marbled floor through these 13-metre
high rooms and allow your gaze to wander over these venerable
writings and the ceiling frescos by Bartolomeo Altomonte, you
are gripped by a deep respect for the artistic and architectural
masterpieces of which people were capable back in those times.
WILDLY ROMANTIC: THE GESÄUSE REGION
This wildly romantic valley owes its name to the powerful and
thunderous rushing with which the river Enns plunges over the
rocks and down into the valley. Ranging above are the peaks of
the Ennstal Alps, surrounded by the dense forests which explain
why Styria is sometimes called the “green province”: around
60% of the province is forested. In this breathtaking countryside,
preserved in its original form as the “Gesäuse National Park”, it
is not only man who can find a place of recovery from the noise
and hectic pace of daily life. Deer and other animals enjoy a
natural environment in which to live and hide. At heights ranging
from 700 to 1,600 metres, the deer graze on fresh herbs and
grasses, which has an outstanding effect on the quality of the
venison meat. Little wonder, then, that in the restaurants and
inns, and also in the region’s delicatessens, the visitor will come
across any number of excellent specialities using game. For
instance, what would you say to a tender ragout of venison
before continuing on towards Mariazell? But if your schedule
doesn’t permit such an extended stop, you can simply take a
couple of venison sausages to eat on the way!
PILGRIMAGE AND BÜRGER ALM: MARIA ZELL
If you prefer to look for an alternative to the busy activity
around the Mariazell Basilica, one of the most important places
of pilgrimage in Europe, the best advice is to take the cablecar up to the Mariazell Bürgeralpe. Here, at a height of 1,300
metres above sea level, the “Mariazeller Bergwelle” entrances
visitors in summer: it is a triumphant mix of mountain
panorama, light and laser technology, fountains and live music.
While a variety of artists and music groups perform on the
stage set in the lake, water fountains up to 40 metres high play
in time to the music.
30
THE WORLD’S FIRST MOUNTAIN R AILWAY
For railway enthusiasts, a detour to the nearby Semmeringbahn
is an absolute must: it began to operate in 1854, and the first
mountain railway in history carried passengers on the route from
Gloggnitz to Mürzzuschlag and back – a route that in those days
was brave in the extreme, given the wealth of gorges and bends
to be overcome. In 1998, the Semmeringbahn was declared as a
UNESCO World Heritage Site, and even today this part section of
the rail route from Vienna to Italy is an adventure in itself.
ALMENL AND NATURE PARK
You can imagine yourself in a fairytale as you drive past the verdant
green meadows and dark forests and suddenly see the dark blue
of the Teichalmsee in front of you, nestling in an extensive upland
plateau. If you are hungry by now, you might possibly be more
interested in what you can see standing and lying around in the
Alpine meadows in large numbers: around 4,000 Alpine oxen
graze on the lakeside meadows, under open skies, thriving on the
juicy grasses, flavoursome herbs and clear spring water. These
pleasant living conditions also indirectly benefit the visitor – a pink
Alpine ox steak melts like butter in the mouth.
THE PLE ASURE CAPITAL
A designation like this has to be earned, although for Graz it’s a
simple matter: around 800 city farmers supply the lovable city on
the Mur river daily with high-quality, fresh produce from their own
farms – and the chefs in the inns and restaurants know how to
prepare them to best effect. In addition, Graz is one of a total of 10
cities designated by UNESCO as “Cities of Design”, serving up an
exceptional cultural offering: festivals such as Styriarte Graz and
the Steirische Herbst attract thousands of visitors every year, as
do the Austrian sculpture park, the Joanneum universal museum,
and the gallery of modern art. Schloss Eggenberg castle and the
historic town centre are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
THE GR A Z KR AUTHÄUPTEL
The area around Graz is particularly well-suited to the growing
of salad crops. The most well-known of these is the Graz
Krauthäuptel, found throughout the season at every Graz farmers’
market. It is particularly liked for its crisply tender, slightly sweet
flavour with no bitter aftertaste. Tip: marinate with Styrian
pumpkin seed oil and apple vinegar – or simply order it in one of
the many good restaurants in the city!
HORROR AND PLE ASURE: E ASTERN ST YRIA
No less than three exhibitions in the Riegersburg take visitors
on a multimedia journey to the times of the Ottoman Wars and
witch-burnings, but also to the Baroque love of life. This castle,
once the strongest bastion of christendom, may offer horror in its
history, but it offers pleasure in exploring its environs – whether
that is on a tasting tour of the Zotter chocolate factory, or visiting
the “Vulcano Ursprung” ham-making factory. Another tasting tip:
Mangalitza bacon and ham – preferably with freshly-grated Styrian
horseradish.
THE SOUTHERN ST YRIAN WINE ROUTE
Even if the term “Steirische Toskana” (the “Tuscany of Styria”)
is far too frequently used, it is a comparison that springs
easily to mind when you see the gentle hills of the vineyards
and cypresses in the south of the province. But it’s a different
matter altogether when it comes to the specialities of the
region. Ideally ordered in a winery restaurant, try a runner
bean salad with pumpkin seed oil and a glass of Styrian wine,
such as a Weissburgunder or a Sauvignon Blanc. And if that
whets your appetite, you can go on to order a richly garnished
“Brettljause” with fresh speciality hams and sausage from local
producers.
01.07.16 10:04
PH O T OS OE W M , A n na S t öc h er / au s t r ia n im a g es .c o m
If you’ve already visited, you know: Styrian people are
simply lovers of the fine things in life. But that alone is not
enough to explain the astonishing variety of delicious dishes
that are conjured onto tables across the province. The diverse
range of agriculture in the province, from grassy Alpine lands
to the vineyards, guarantees a particularly colourful menu. So
if you really want to get to know Styria, the best advice is to go
on a culinary tour of the province, planning in enough time for
the occasional cultural stop-off. After all, the “green province” is
richly blessed with such attractions too.
Welcome to a
land of pleasures!
As anyone who’s
been here knows.
The Styrians know
PH O T OS OE W M , A n na S t öc h er / au s t r ia n im a g es .c o m
how to enjoy life.
M O R N I N G S U N O V E R T H E S O U T H S T Y R I A N V I N E YA R D S
THE MUR ISLAND IN THE CENTRE OF GRAZ
THE MAIN SQUARE IN GRAZ
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01.07.16 10:04
VIENNA
Vienna, Imperial, imperious, dynamic
From charming designer shops to colourful
markets: Imperial Vienna is an exciting metropolis,
with many surprises.
32
Only a few metres further, in the narrow lanes around the major
shopping mile that is the Mariahilfer Strasse, young designer
stores are springing up. We definitely have the feeling that
this is Vienna’s creative quarter. And a look through the small
display windows proves us right: there are plenty of individual
one-off pieces here, and it’s definitely not mainstream stuff –
whether fashion, accessories or design. As an example, take
Am Spittelberg, where delightful fashion boutiques are hidden
amongst romantic Biedermeier houses. Some of the designers
who have located there now enjoy an international reputation.
Foremost amongst them Lena Hoschek, whose retro style is
inspiring stars like Katy Perry. Or Susanne Bisovsky, whose
Vienna chic represents international haute couture.
The fashionable Viennese spirit is also tangible in the
city’s colourful markets. For instance, the famous Naschmarkt,
which is an all-round experience with its many bars, stalls and
Saturday flea-market. There, we stroll past Oriental cultures,
sample the wide range of foods on offer, and then settle down
for a relaxed afternoon break only to quickly discover that there
are even more secret tips to explore. The Karmelitermarkt in
Vienna’s second district is abundant with hip flair. As is the
up-and-coming Meidlinger Markt, or the freshly-renovated
Vorgartenmarkt. They all show off the sweet sides of life:
easy, uncomplicated, and full of enjoyment. Just the way we
like things.
PH OT OS K un s t h al le W ie n 2 01 4 , St e p ha n W yc k of f / Su s a n ne B i so vx ky
When we first take a stroll beside the Danube Canal, we
can easily imagine ourselves in the middle of Berlin. Vibrant
graffiti graces the stone walls, and popular bars and beach clubs
line up along the banks of this offshoot of the Danube. It’s an
area for pleasure-seekers, for joggers, cyclists, sun-lovers. And
people who love the view out over the gently-flowing water. What
impresses us is this magnificent symbiosis of the modern and the
historical. The colourful street art competes with world-famous
Jugendstil architecture, as you come across several buildings
designed by Otto Wagner as you take this walk. The buildings of
the stations at Friedensbrücke and Rossauer Lände, for example.
Or the Schützenhaus that Wagner first designed to regulate the
Danube Canal. These days, it houses a restaurant with the same
name, specialising in traditional cuisine.
Our next stop is the MuseumsQuartier. Within the walls of
former Imperial stables, one of the biggest areas given over to
art in the world houses around 60 cultural establishments. These
include highly prestigious institutions such as the Kunsthalle
Wien, the Leopold Museum, and mumok (Museum Moderner
Kunst Stiftung Ludwig). The Baroque elements of the buildings
mix with more recent architecture, and the vibrant cultural life
is reflected in a highly diverse offering. Right in the centre, a
generous courtyard opens up, with the feel of an urban livingroom. It’s filled with young and old alike, as they chat, read and
relax on the innovative seating.
01.07.16 10:04
PH OT OS K un s t h al le W ie n 2 01 4 , St e p ha n W yc k of f / Su s a n ne B i so vx ky
T H E K U N S T H A L L E I N V I E N N A’ S M U S E U M S Q U A R T I E R
S U S A N N E B I S O V S K Y / “ W I E N E R C H I C & 3 M A E D E R L H O U S E ” S W A R O V S K I - S TA G E V I E N N A 2 0 1 6
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01.07.16 10:04
There are no slaves to the rhythm at the Vienna Blues
Spring: since 2005, the festival has covered the city with a wealth
of blues concerts. For more than six weeks, you can enjoy
hearing performances by international and Austrian acts. These
include giants of the scene like Charlie Musselwhite, Kim Wilson
and Eddie “The Chief” Clearwater. The main performance venue
is the Veranstaltungszentrum Reigen, which staged its first jazz
concerts during the 1950s. www.viennabluesspring.org
If you really want to immerse yourself in the Austrian music
scene, you should not miss Popfest. There are no admission
charges, and it shows off the range of domestic talent to great
effect. Many of the concerts are in the open, under the stars:
there are open-air performances on the stage in front of the
Karlskirche, which is then illuminated impressively with artistic
visuals. This multi-day event is atmospheric and vibrant, and
also plays in neighbouring localities: for instance, brut at the
Künstlerhaus, or at the University of Technology (Technische
Universität). www.popfest.at
A visit to the Accordion Festival is similarly guaranteed to
be good. Not just for fans of this adaptable instrument, but for
everyone interested in becoming one: the accordion, in all its
diverse artistic facets, is the focus of attention for a whole month.
The event has been steadily growing since 2000, to become
an event of international standing where famous sound artists
alternate with newcomers, concerts with workshops and dance.
Performances are given in around 20 venues.
www.akkordeonfestival.at
And one of the internationally-important Vienna festivals
is given over entirely to dance: ImPulsTanz. Something that
started small has now become the biggest European event
for contemporary dance. Globally-famous choreographers
and dancers, from Wim Vandekeybus to Jerome Bel to Marie
Chouinard, delight Vienna for five weeks with contemporary
dance. And everyone is welcome to join in: there are numerous
workshops, often led by well-known personalities in the dance
world, who invite participants to learn and discover.
www.impulstanz.com
High above the rooftops, the pulse of the city beats
particularly fast. That’s also true in Le Loft restaurant, on Level
18 of the Sofitel building and with impressive views over Vienna
that extend from the Stephansdom over the hilly vineyard areas to
the adjoining Danube Canal. In the restaurant, cuisine inspired by
the Alsace region is served in a bright ambience, enclosed in allround glazing. Le Loft, incidentally, can be spotted from far away:
thanks to an impressive, self-reflecting light ceiling by media artist
Pipilotti Rist.
Relaxed flair set in airy heights is radiated at the Dachboden
im 25hours Hotel. With brightly-coloured furniture and relaxed
seating, the venue creates an informal atmosphere somewhere
between a living-room and an entertaining variety circus. Should
you choose, you can take your drink outside onto a wonderful
terrace, from where you can see the parliament building, and in
good weather even as far as the Korneuburg vineyards. Guest
DJs spin here regularly, and transform the relaxed post-work hotspot into a dance floor. www.25hours-hotels.com
The young hang-outs around the city are best discovered
on a walk. For instance, you might enjoy the walk through the
34
short Theobaldgasse (6th district), where within a few hundred
metres you will find several innovative businesses and projects.
The We Bandits store, for instance, offering own creations and
fashionable finds from Scandinavia or Asia. Next, there is the
anzüglich label with its fairly-manufactured eco-fashion. A few
houses further on, the special eco-store Feinkoch can be found,
offering its pre-weighed ingredients (plus recipe) for fast cooking
pleasure. And also in this short street: the Espresso-Bar Akrap,
with coffee that is roasted in-house, the Tongues concept store,
Club Mon Ami, and African specialist Habari. And if you are
looking for even more Austrian design, you can stroll on into the
neighbouring Gumpendorfer Strasse. Individual collections are
available from Anukoo and the neighbouring store, Schönes und
Tragbares.
Even more young fashion is available a short hop away,
around the Lindengasse and Neubaugasse in the 7th district.
Lovers of bags will love Ina Kent, while lila spoils anyone looking
for a mix of sophisticated cool and a transformable look. Art Point
is the place for avant-garde fashion, and Elke Freytag offers cool
dresses. This tour also takes in Scandinavian-inspired stores,
from finnshop to Fjordlys to designqvist. This area also has
numerous second-hand boutiques that invite visitors to stop and
browse.
The Palmenhaus is impressive in summer and winter alike.
The beautiful steel construction of the palm-house was erected in
1882. As well as being a space for overwintering plants, it is also
home to a butterfly house. And along with that, a brasserie that
combines yesteryear charm with hip flair. Emperors once used
these spaces to relax in, and today many people take time-out in
this Jugendstil building to linger over a breakfast or sample one
of the exquisite wines. Located on a side wing of the Hofburg,
out on the impressive terrace you have the castle gardens directly
at your feet. It’s a meeting-point for romantics, nostalgics, and
culture lovers. Artists and musicians regularly perform in these
special rooms. www.palmenhaus.at
It’s an institution, and belongs to Vienna just like the
Kaffeehaus and the Lippizaner horse: the Würstelstand. You will
find these stalls on countless street corners, serving as a meeting
point for people of different social classes and backgrounds.
People chat, philosophise – and, naturally, take in a snack too.
It’s an expression of something typically Viennese, this mix of
friendliness and old times. Some of them have adapted their
look stylishly to the modern age, giving a contemporary twist
to the old tradition. The famous Bitzinger Wüstelstände on the
Albertinaplatz or by the ferris wheel, for instance, rank amongst
the best in Vienna. And definitely the most chic: with a stylised,
reduced, modern look. From the Opera Ball visitor to the taxidriver, hungers are satisfied here with a hot dog or a specialist
sausage such as a Bosna or Käsekrainer. What you need to
know is that, at the sausage stand, everyone is equal. There’s
beer on tap, wine, and even champagne. The Xpedit Kiosk is
similarly untypical. Hip flair is served up along with your sausage
– here, in the fashionable Freihaus district, which is a run of small
galleries.
E N J O Y M E N T I N A J U G E N D S T I L A M B I E N C E : T H E PA L M H O U S E I N V I E N N A
PH O T O Pa lm e n ha us W i en , G re g o r L e ch ne r
Taking the pulse of Vienna. From Strauss to
Haydn: Vienna is a city of famous composers.
And the current music scene is similarly vibrant.
01.07.16 10:04
F O TO Pa l m en ha u s W ie n, Gr e go r L ec hn er
05.07.16 14:06
VIENNA & THE SURROUNDING AREA
Getting out of
the city for a change!
Stunning castles, paradises of nature, and outstanding
wines: there’s all kinds of things to see and discover
The Marchfeld is an exciting area of Lower Austria. As
one of the biggest plains in the country, it is bounded on two
sides by rivers: by the March to the east, and to the south by the
Danube and its picturesque water meadows. Its alternative name,
as the “Kornkammer Österreichs” (the “Corn basket of Austria”)
is down to its productive agriculture. It is also an important
supplier of vegetables to nearby Vienna.
But the area also possesses a rich heritage of history. The
traces which noble families have left behind in the area over the
past centuries remain impressive. Within easy reach of the capital,
they built glamorous summer residences and country retreats.
Fascinating gardens surrounded the magnificent castles, largely
built in the Baroque style of the 18th century.
Six of these magnificent buildings, reflecting the glory of
past ages, are known under the collective name Marchfelderschlösser. These are the castles of Marchegg, Hof, Niederweiden,
Eckartsau, Orth and Obersiebenbrunn. The latter now houses
a monastery. Others, too, have discovered a new use following
restoration: for instance Schloss Orth, which houses the administrative unit for the Donau-Auen National Park. It is the starting-
point for many of its discovery trails through the protected natural
landscape, 38 kilometres in length, which is one of the biggest
intact water meadow areas in Europe.
Particularly impressive is Schloss Hof, which extends
over an area of over 50 hectares, making it Austria’s biggest
rural castle complex. In the late 1720s, Prince Eugene of Savoy
created a special kind of country seat with hunting grounds for
himself here: an imposing complex of buildings which ranks
amongst the very best in Europe. At its heart was a breathtaking
garden, planted with rare and exotic specimens, ranged over
seven terraces down to the March. From 2002 on, the castle
36
01.07.16 10:04
P HO TO S ch lo s s H o f
in the countryside around Vienna
P HO TO S ch lo s s H o f
PURE BAROQUE: SCHLOSSHOF
T H E G A R D E N AT S C H L O S S H O F
37
01.07.16 10:04
E S Z T E R H A Z Y PA L A C E I N E I S E N S TA D T
38
01.07.16 10:04
PH OT O Ös t e r re ic h Wer b un g , R a l f Kr e ue ls
PH OT OS B ur g e nl a nd To u r is m u s , Pe t e r B ur g s t a l ler
CHERRY BLOSSOM IN BURGENLAND
PH OT O Ös t e r re ic h Wer b un g , R a l f Kr e ue ls
PH OT OS B ur g e nl a nd To u r is m u s , Pe t e r B ur g s t a l ler
was comprehensively renovated. The original furniture and art
objects were restored to their rightful places, and the garden
now radiates its original splendour, with its powerful fountains, its
secluded niches, its magnificent seas of flowers and impressive
sculptures. In this enchanting world, visitors are free to wander at
will or to have a go at Baroque living for themselves in the dairy
block, with activities from basket-weaving to distilling schnapps.
There are also regular events staged in the Prince’s own dream
land, from the Easter market to the gardening workshops to the
major Baroque festival.
Lower Austria is not only a land of castles, but also one of
natural beauties. In addition to the Donau-Auen National Park, the
region is also home to the protected area of the Thayatal National
Park. The smallest of Austria’s national parks offers plenty of
unspoilt countryside: steeply-sloping rock walls, deciduous
forests and gentle meadows. Guided tours take you through the
area on the trail of beavers and otters.
Vienna is the only major city to have its own noteworthy
vineyards. But the regions around the capital also have a liking
for the noble grape. The best example is Langenlois in Lower
Austria, the country’s biggest wine-growing town. Situated in the
beautiful Kamptal valley, in addition to its gentle vineyards and
attractive hills it is also home to the Loisium Weinerlebniswelt,
probably the most unusual centre for wine by some distance.
This emblematic building has an unusual design, created by the
American star architect Steven Holl: it is cube-shaped, and has
a futuristic shell in brushed aluminium. This wine museum with
its attached designer hotel is also impressive when you look at it
more closely. It leads you down into a 900-year old, labyrinthine
world of cellars.
Once you are in the area, you should not pass up on the
opportunity to explore it further. For instance, by taking an outing
to the neighbouring garden village of Schiltern. Here you can
make a stop at Arche Noah, an association for preserving and
developing the diversity of our cultivated plants. Or perhaps take
a trip to the impressive town of Krems, scenically located beside
the Danube.
In Burgenland, too, much revolves around the noble vine.
In the south of the province, for example, there is the Naturpark
in der Weinidylle: an area where waterside woodlands and
marshy meadows come together with straw-covered cellars and
romantically-planted vineyards. Possibly the most unusual jewel
here is Heiligenbrunn, a place with over a hundred wine cellars
that are protected buildings. You can walk from one winery to the
next, readily succumbing to the pace of life and enjoying wine
from regional farmers.
In the north of Burgenland, too, the fruitful soil is the basis
for many award-winning wines. And you can hardly be in the area
without visiting the Neusiedler See. The “Viennese sea” (“Meer
der Wiener”), as it is often longingly referred to, does actually
merit this title: you can gaze almost endlessly far over a body
of water and reeds that covers a total of 320 square kilometres.
The climate is mild, with some 2,000 hours of sunshine a year
recorded here. And the often strong winds also make the lake a
popular centre for sailors, windsurfers and kiters. The lake is now
categorised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
A visit to the Mole West is to be recommended without
fail. The café-restaurant is an architectural delight, with its
playful lightness: built directly out over the Neusiedler See, it’s
the perfect viewing point for watching the live action of the
sailors, the colours reflected in the water, or the swooping
birds. It’s a wonderful spectacle to be enjoyed, accompanied by
contemporary cuisine conjured up using fresh, and often regional,
ingredients. And regular concerts complete the picture. So it really
is close at hand, la dolce vita. Particularly if you are stationed on
the magnificent terrace and watching the colourful sunset.
Incidentally, the region’s most well-known producer of
pleasure is called Erich Stekovics, and he is to be found in
Frauenkirchen. From the small vegetable business his father ran,
he has carved out a specialist niche for his plants: Stekovics
breeds old and long-forgotten varieties of tomato. They range
from “Dattelwein” to the “Rose of Lebanon”, are sometimes yellow
and sometimes green, flavoured by exotic notes of melon or
banana. The farmer wakes over 3,200 varieties threatened with
extinction from their beauty sleep. In summer, there are guided
tours where Stekovics explains the origins and flavours of his
favourite varieties. He is keen to emphasise one point – that he
never waters his tomatoes. He leaves them to the plentiful sun
that shines here. And to the strong wind that regularly blows. It’s a
life close to nature, and a region full of ease, for which the slogan
of the Mole West is well-suited: “There is more philosophy in a
bottle of wine than in all the books in the world.” (Louis Pasteur)
KITE SURFING ON NEUSIEDLER SEE
39
01.07.16 10:04
LANDKARTE0PROWEGE
#FEELAUSTRIA
the only-thelake-and-me
serenity
austria.info
04.07.16 16:00

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