Mexico City > Oaxaca
Transcription
Mexico City > Oaxaca
Mexico 2004 (Wings and Wheels) Uiteindelijke reisweg Versie 1.3 maandag 16 augustus 2004 C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 1 of 159 Mexico 2004 Overzicht Datum Dag Hoogte 29/07 Donderdag 29 30/07 Vrijdag 30 2260 31/07 Zaterdag 31 2260 1/08 2/08 Zondag Maandag 1 2 1550 1550 Afstand 110 km 450 km 100 km 3/08 Dinsdag 3 47 262 km 4 u 30 4/08 Woensdag 4 2300 345 km Overnachting Hotel Mexico City Lepanto Mexico City Lepanto Mexico City Lepanto Oaxaca Hacienda La Noria Oaxaca Hacienda La Noria Tehuantepec Calli San Cristobal Bonampac C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Te Bezoeken Brussel - Mexico City BRU-EWR CO 61 10:30 > 12:30 (7 ½ uur) EWR-MEX CO 1970 17:20 > 21:38 (4 ½ uu Mexico City AM : "Bustoer" Zocalo, Kathedraal, Nation Antropologisch muzeum PM : Zona Rossa wandeling terug naar Cen tot Insurgenta, Puebla tot Niños Heroes, (schakers) en Hidalgo plaats; 's avonds lan Garibaldi (eten & muziek), wandelen via Ca Zocalo (indianen muziek), terug via Mader Central tot Hidalfo en Hotel op Guerrero. Mexico City AM: Bustoer langs de Plaats der drie cultu Guadeloupe & Teotihuacan (Pyramide van d van Quetzoquatl) Mexico City > Oaxaca AM: Auto afhalen op de luchthaven (Alam "Liggende Vrouw" (klim tot 3,208 m) naar Verder naar Tehuacan (zoeken naar ruines PM: verder langs cactussen en de Rio Gran langs Josuah bomen, agaven, cactussen ma Oaxaca AM: Bezoek aan Monte Alban (40 km² - Z PM: Oaxaca (Zocalo, Markten, Santo Dom Rosario) Oaxaca > Tehuantepec AM: Mitla (Stad der Doden, magisch geta (langs een piste en wandelings) PM: 200 km naar Tehuantepec (aan Stille (Mezcal), bossen en cactussen. Tehuantepec > San Cristobal de Las Ca AM: vertrek naar Tuxtla-Guttierras (1,20 en maïs). Chiapas PM: Sumidero Canyon Mirador route, teru San Cristobal de Las Casas. Bezoek van het stadje. Page 2 of 159 Mexico 2004 5/08 6/08 7/08 8/08 9/08 Donderdag Vrijdag Zaterdag Zondag Maandag 5 6 7 8 9 200 242 km 5 u 25 s=44 km/u 200 10 40 295 km 2 u 40 s=65 km/u 10/08 Dinsdag 10 7 11/08 Woensdag 11 7 Chan Kah Palenque AM: Bezoek aan de Maya tempels PM: rusten aan zwembad en 's avonds naa Debliz Palenque > Campeche AM: tocht naar Champoton langs ranches lunch te Champoton. PM: verder naar Edzna en langs indianen d Avonds naar Zocalo waar feesten aan de g Mission Campeche > Uxmal AM: Tocht naar Kabah (150 km) [tempel m Hopelchén, tot Uxmal ("drie maal gebouwd PM: Bezoek aan Syil en Labna Chichen Itza Chizen Itza Uxmal > Chichen Itza AM: Uxmal (archeologische opgravingen, P maanstanden en Itzamna, tempel met 365 PM: via kleine wegen lanhs Ticul naar Sotu Izamal (bezoek klooster en tempel) en ver Cancun Flamingo Resort Chichen Itza > Cancun AM: Chichen Itza PM: doorreis langs Valladoid (lunch en bez Cancun Flamingo Resort Cancun Palenque Palenque 449 km 6 u 22 s=70 km/u 48 Chan Kah San Cristobal de Las Casas > Palenque AM: Trekken richting Ocosingo en naar To PM: verder naar Agua Azul en Palenque Tropisch oerwoud met banaan, maïs, koffi en honig. 232 km 4 u 28 s=52 km/u 252 km 4 uur s=64 km/u Campeche Uxmal 12/08 Donderdag 12 Cancun Cancun 's morgens terugreis (Cancun > …) CUN-EWR CO 1988 08:50 > 13:56 EWR-BRU CO 60 19:00 > 08:15 13/08 Vrijdag 13 Cancun Aankomst Brussel C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 3 of 159 Mexico 2004 Mexico City en omgeving Mexico City Like an enormous living museum, Mexico City is a remarkable showplace for Mexico's 3,000 years of human cultural achievement. It ranks as one of the world's great capitals and is a must for anyone yearning to understand Mexico's complex past and ever challenging future. The size and grandeur of the city are staggering. It is not only the oldest continuously inhabited city in the Western Hemisphere, but also carries the burden of being the largest city the world has ever known. Mexico City is located on an enormous dry lake bed in a highland basin (elevation 7,400 feet) surrounded by towering mountains. The city faces some formidable urban problems, it has a population of approximately 8'605,239 inhabitants. But beneath its riveting facade, is an endearing and captivating city that has a magnetism unfound in other cities. With some patience, the city's engaging history and cosmopolitan air compensate for its glaring urban character. Few cities on earth can match Mexico City for historic grandeur. Its tumultuous past encompasses every phase of Mexican history. It is unique in the Western Hemisphere as a colorful and compelling mosaic of Pre-Columbian, European colonial, and modern eras. It is here that in 1519 the Old World and New World met face to face in a confrontation that would forever shape world history. Mexico City is the exact site upon which the great Mexica (Aztec) civilization flourished, developing one of the greatest cities of the 16th century. Mexico City is still the economic, political and cultural hub of Mexico. It is a vivacious, pulsating city that clamors to be chic and modern while showcasing its colorful ancient roots. Interspersed throughout the city's unwieldy, and often unsightly, sprawl, are pockets of beautifully preserved remnants of its colonial and Native American heritage. These include astonishing historic sites, ranging from awesome ancient ruins, to meticulously restored, century-old colonial buildings, churches and mansions, to lovely parks and plazas, to grandiose monuments. Visitors find accommodations ranging from fine world-class resorts, to colonial inns and stately Old World hotels. The city is home to dozens of outstanding museums, spanning topics of varied artistic and academic interest. Music, dance, theater and modern art thrive in the city's flourishing fine arts community. Dining and shopping are first rate and the city's spring-like climate invites visitors year round. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 4 of 159 Mexico 2004 Mexico City surrounds visitors with reminders of the city's larger-than-life past. A strong air of Europe drapes the capital, sometimes in sharp contrast to the city's ancient Indian past. Its people make gregarious and gracious hosts Zocala, Kathedraal, Nationaal Paleis, Antropologisch muzeum, Chapultepec park, San Sebastian kerk, Universiteit, Placo Garibaldi (avond). MAP C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 5 of 159 Mexico 2004 Downtown C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 6 of 159 Mexico 2004 • Alameda Central (The Central Alameda Park) This beautiful park is located between the Juarez and Hidalgo avenues and on Angela Peralta street. This is the oldest promenade in Mexico City. It owes its name to the Alamo trees planted there. It dates from the XVI century. Next to it on Hidalgo Avenue, is the church of the Santa Veracruz, built in 1526, and considered one of the most important Baroque-style buildings of the City. To the west, on Dr. Mora and Basilio Badillo street is the Pinacoteca Virreinal, built in the XVII century in the Chapel of Dolores. It is known to be among the most interesting in the city for its paintings. • Antiguo Colegio de San Ildelfonso (The old School of San Ildefonso) Founded by Jesuits in the XVI century, the "Antiguo Colegio de San Ildelfonso";was transformed into the National High School in 1807. It has acted as a museum since 1978, and displays important cultural exhibitions. • Antiguo edificio de la Aduana (The Old Customs Office) The "Antiguo Edificio de la Aduana", is located on the Brasil, Venezuela and Cuba streets. This building was constructed in the XVIII century. It has a facade of tezontle with balconies of quarry stone. At the stairway you can see a mural painted by Siqueiros named "Patricios y Patricidas". • Casa de los Condes de Santa Maria de Valparaiso C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 7 of 159 Mexico 2004 (House of the Count of Santa Maria de Valparaiso) The Tezontle and limestone facade of this XVIII century house once belonging to the Count of Santa Maria de Valparaiso makes it undoubtedly one of the most beautiful structures downtown. This mansion presently houses the main office of Banco Nacional de Mexico and is located on Isabel la Catolica 44. • Catedral Metropolitana (The Metropolitan Cathedral) The "Catedral Metropolitana", is located beside the Main Square. It was constructed over the remains of a small construction, first built in 1524 and demolished in 1626. Finished in 1813, it became the first cathedral in La Nueva España and the oldest one in the Americas. It has a Baroque-style facade with an outstanding ironwork and 64-meter Neoclassical-style towers holding 18 bells. In the interior of the Cathedral, you can see the Latin Cross with three aisles and a barrel vault, 5 large altars and 14 chapels of different styles. Its main altars are the Altar Mayor, Altar de los Reyes and Altar del Perdon.. The Churrigueresque-style Sagrario Metropolitano, built in the XVIII century, is found in the east side of the Cathedral. On the west side is "La Plazoleta del Marquez". • Palacio de Bellas Artes (Fine Arts Palace) The "Palacio de Bellas Artes", is located on the east side of the Alameda Park. Its construction began in 1904 and was finished in 1932. It has an art nouveau style and its facade is made of marble from Carrara. In its interior, there is a crystal curtain carved with the images of the Iztlaccihuatl and Popocatepetl volcanoes. There are also some frescos of Orozco, Siqueiros, Rivera, Tamayo and Montenegro.In front of this building is the Bank of Mexico, which is an exact copy of the Palazzo Strossi of Florence, Italy. Next to it is the Latin America Tower, which was for many years the highest building of the City, with its 47 floors. • Palacio de Iturbide The first emperor of Mexico, Agustin de Iturbide, resided in this palace in 1822. The rich limestone facade displays two statues supporting its balcony. The building now houses the National Bank of Mexico. • Palacio de la Escuela de Medicina This XVIII century baroque style building, was constructed by Pedro de Arrieta to house the Holy Inquisition Headquarters, later it served the National School of Medicine. Today, it is the Medicine Museum. • Palacio de la Inquisicion (The Palace of the Inquisition) This palace is located on Republica de Brasil and Venezuela street. It was built in the XVIII century and belonged to the Inquisition. Today, it houses the Museum of Medicine. It is also known as "La Cachata". • Palacio de Mineria This neo-classic building was built between 1797 and 1810 under the supervision of architect Manuel Tosá. The theater room and chapel are decorated with XIX century paintings of the Virgin of Guadalupe. • Palacio del Marquez de Valle de Orizaba (Casa los Azulejos) (Del Marquez del Valle de Orizaba Palace or House of Tiles) "La casa de los Azulejos", is located on the 5 de Mayo alley, between 5 de Mayo and Madero street. This palace was constructed in the XVI century and is covered with Puebla-style tiles. The facade is made of gray quarry stone and the ironwork of the balcony is said to be made in China. Inside there are some murals made by Clemente Orozco. • Palacio Nacional (The National Palace) The "Palacio Nacional" is located in front of the Plaza de la Constitucion. This Palace is the headquarters of the Federal Executive Power, and was constructed in 1529 in the former Palace of Moctezuma. It burned down in 1692 and since then has been modified several times to become the building it is today. It is a Baroque-style construction with a facade of gray quarry stone and red tezontle (volcanic rock). The palace has three main accesses: The Mariana Door, which owes its name to President Mariano Arista who ordered to construct it; The Central Door, over which the Bell of Dolores was placed; and the one in the south side, named the Honour Door, because it is used as C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 8 of 159 Mexico 2004 an entrance for the President. In the interior of the palace there are some murals painted by Diego Rivera and a monument honouring Benito Juarez. • Palacio Postal This spectacular building is made with carved white limestone. Architect Adamo Boari designed it in 1907, since which time it has served as a post office. • Plaza de la Constitucion (The Main Square) "La Plaza de la Constitucion", is the main square of the country and is located in the downtown area of the city. It is also called "El Zocalo". Its extension is about four hectares, one of the largest in the world. • Plaza de las Tres Culturas: The Plaza of the Three Cultures in Mexico City, known as the Plaza de las Tres Culturas in Spanish, symbolizes Mexico’s unique cultural heritage. Once the center of some of the most powerful Native American empires (represented by the ruins of an Aztec temple shown here in the foreground), Mexico became a flourishing Spanish colony in the 16th century (represented by the shell of a Spanish church shown in the center of the photograph). Today, most Mexicans are mestizos, or persons with mixed European and Native American ancestry. The modern housing project in the background represents this mixture of cultures. • Plaza de Santo Domingo (The Santo Domingo Square) The "Plaza de Santo Domingo", is located near the Zocalo. It is considered the second most important plaza of the country because of its dimensions and the historical buildings surrounding it. It has several sculptures, one of them honouring Josefa Ortiz De Dominguez. Nearby, is the church of Santo Domingo, constructed with red tezontle and a facade of quarry stone, considered one of the most representative Baroque-style buildings of Mexico. Another interesting construction is the Neoclassical-style Chapel of "La Expiacion", located on Dominguez and Valle streets. On the west side of the Plaza are the Portals of Santo Domingo, which are part of a colonial house built in the XVII century. • Plaza Manuel Tolsa y Estatua de Carlos IV The "Plaza Manuel Tolsá y Estatua de Carlos IV", better known as "El Caballito" (The Little Horse), and the statue of King Carlos IV, is one of the most prominent pieces by Manuel Tolsá. It is located on Tacubaya street at the intersection of Xicotencatl and Marconi street. • Sagrario Metropolitano (The Metropolitan Sagrario) The "Sagrario Metropolitano", was constructed in the mid-eighteenth century by Spanish Lorenzo Rodriguez. A beautiful neo-classic altar by Pedro Patiño Ixtolinque and a magnificent anonymous painting of Saint Christopher dwell inside. • Secretaria de Educacion Publica (Ministty of Education) Between 1923 and 1928, Diego Rivera painted murals on the patio walls that surround this building. The murals occupy over 16,146 square feet and are based on themes suggested by Jose Vasconcelos, the Minister of Education at the time. • Suprema Corte de Justicia (The Supreme Court of Justice) This building is located southeast of the Zocalo on Pino Suarez street. It was built in 1940 and in its interior there are some murals painted C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 9 of 159 Mexico 2004 by Jose Clemente Orozco. On El Salvador, Mesones, Pino Suarez and 20 de Noviembre streets is the "Hospital De Jesus" (hospital), founded by Hernan Cortez, whose remains lie in the church next to the hospital where there is also a mural of Clemente Orozco representing the apocalypse. • Templo de la Profesa The Temple of "San Jose el Real", better known as "La Profesa", was constructed during the XVIII century. It now houses a major painting gallery. • Templo Mayor This archaeological site was discovered in the downtown area of the city, on Seminario, Argentina, Justo Sierra and Guatemala streets. Before the conquest it was the spiritual and political center of the Mexicas. In 1521, the city with its ceremonial center was destroyed by the Spaniards, as well as the 50-meter high pyramid with two temples over its top, one dedicated to Huitzilopochtli and the other to Tlaloc. After the discovery of the great monolite of La Coyolxauhqui, excavations which allowed to see the different stages of construction were begun. So far it has been possible to recover the ruins of the great Teocalli, remains of the Red Temple and the Recinto de los Caballeros Aguila, a Chac-Mool figure, and some little niches and pyramids. Nearby, you can visit the church of Santa Teresa la Antigua; on Licenciado Verdad and Moneda streets are the Colonial-style Casas Del Mayorazgo de Guerrero, built in the XVIII century, also called the Houses of the Sun and the Moon. Inside the Houses there are some murals painted by Rufino Tamayo which are considered as historical monuments. • Templo y Hospital de San Felipe de Jesus The Temple and Hospital were built according to a posthumous wish of Hernan Cortes. "Apocalipsis", one of Jose Clemente Orosco's most famous paintings, was done between 1942 and 1944, and is located in the Chair Dome. Reforma Avenue C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 10 of 159 Mexico 2004 Santo Domingo Square A sculpture of Josefa Ortiz de Dominguez, staunch supporter of Mexico's independence, is erected in this harmonious plaza. With equally ambitious pretensions but somewhat lacking in strategy, the Irishman Guillen de Lampart had attempted a similar endeavor in the mid-17th Century, only to be apprehended and tried by the dreaded Inquisition. The seat of this infamous tribunal is the building with a truncated corner which dates from 1736, and which served this same purpose until 1820 before entertaining several occupants until being chosen C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 11 of 159 Mexico 2004 to house the school of medicine. At present it contains a museum dedicated to the study and practice of medicine, and also serves as a cultural center. Closely related to the Court of the Holy Office is the church which gives its name to the plaza and which formerly was part of the convent of Dominican predicators. This extraordinary 18th Century cluster of ecclesiastical buildings was partially demolished in 1861, with only the church remaining. Its imposing silhouette, characterized by a single tower, frames the entryway, a sober example of baroque style. Upon penetrating its interior we are confronted by a myriad of artistic styles: the poliphony of baroque pilasters and neoclassical columns does honor to the magnificent choir loft with its intricately carved benches. Showing the same patience exercised by the master woodcarvers of Santo Domingo, the scribes in the Evangelists' portal recorded the notes and love letters of yesteryear and today fashion wooden or metal type into greeting cards or christening notices. The Zócalo This great square, called the Zocalo, evokes the place of homage and center of the world which was the heart of the ceremonial nucleus of Mexico-Tenochtitlan. The Zocalo brings together the rhythmic beating of drums, the ankle-rattles of the native dancers and the glowing incense of modern day medicine men. A point of reference, of protest, of ritual and of national celebration, by night it offers an imposing spectacle which culminates in the tumultuous popular festivities on the 15th of September (eve of Mexico's Independence Day). The Zocalo is a massive concrete area signed with a giant flag. The former the Merchants' arcade on the west side has cafés and even a traditional hat shop! Inside the underground Zocalo station you will find excellent historical reproductions of the Square.Artifacts unearthed from the ruins of this double Mexica temple can be seen in the Templo Mayor and in its adjacent museum. This museum houses impressive exhibits of ceremonial offerings, as well as the massive stone representation of the goddess Coyolxauhqui discovered here, and also displays a number of scale models of the former ceremonial center. The Cathedral and its Vestry synthesize the art of New Spain. Through its imposing sun-bathed baroque and neoclassical facade the visitor enters the ethereal half-light of this holy site, with its five separate naves, its chapels and its religious paintings. The Altar of Forgiveness, the sacristy, and the Altar of Kings are all outstanding. The religious ceremonies are performed with the full dignity of the Catholic faith, choirs and organs. The City's soft clay subsoil, C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 12 of 159 Mexico 2004 excessive water explotation, has propitiated the gradual sinking of many buildings such as the Cathedral. Restoration works, partially visible, have prevented its collapse. To the East side of the plaza stands the Palacio Nacional, a group of buildings erected as the seat of civil power from the days of the Viceroyalty until the present. Its interior has several patios, corridors, and stairways graced by impressive murals by Diego Rivera whose symbolism depicts, in great detail, key episodes of Mexico's history C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 13 of 159 Mexico 2004 The Metropolitan Cathedral The cathedral and its vestry represent a synthesis of art forms in New Spain. Penetrating its imposing sun-bathed baroque and neoclassical facade, the visitor enters the ethereal half-light of this hallowed shrine, with its five separate naves, its side chapels, and its sacred religious icons. The religious ceremonies are performed with the full dignity of the Catholic faith and, with a little luck, it may be possible to hear the strains of one of the cathedral's monumental organs. The City's soft clay subsoil, subject to continuous movement over the years, has propitiated the gradual sinking of many building such as the cathedral, and sophisticated restoration works, partially visible, have prevented its collapse. Museo de Antropologia. There you can get a perfect overview over all the cultures, which flourished at different times in the region which constitutes the modern Mexico. Mexico tries to build a national identity on the concept of the Mestizo culture, the mixture of Indian and European culture. There is special emphasis on the Aztec culture as the last great Indian Empire. In the museum the Aztec room is the biggest and occupies the central position between the two wings. Negative aspects of the culture are downplayed, especially human sacrifice (only some exhibits of sacrificial knifes). Plan your visit. The museum is huge! My favorite is the Maya room with fine carvings from Yaxchilán, the tomb of Pacal, reproductions of the murals of Bonampak, etc. But there are many more extraordinary exhibits from Teotihuacan, Tula, Xochicalco, Oaxaca, Gulf, etc. If you are interested in Precolumbian culture, there is also the now excavated remains of the Templo Mayor on the north eastern corner of the Zócalo with a museum. Quite impressive is also Tlatelolco, the Aztec market, now Plaza de las tres Culturas. 60ies high rise housing projects encircle the excavations over which a colonial fortress church towers, quite impressive. In 1968, government troops killed allegedly 300-400 demonstrating students (see ElenaPoniatowska: La Noche de Tlatelolco). The most important colonial buildings are around the Zócalo (especially east of it) and between the Zócalo and Alameda Park. (Photo: Palacio de las Bellas Artes at the Eastern Corner of Alameda) If you are fed up with the hectic of the center, take a cab or the metro to Coyoacán (Photo: Parroquia de San Juan Bautista at Plaza Hidalgo).The small colonial town is now within the city borders of Mexico City but retains it original charm. From Metro Viveros a 30 minutes walk along Francisco Sosa, a beautiful street lined with colonial buildings. In Coyoacán visit the Frieda Kahlo Museum (wife of Diego Rivera) and the house in which Leo Trotzki lived until he was murdered there. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 14 of 159 Mexico 2004 I did not like the Zona Rosa. Staying in the María Cristina nearby, I walked across avery day. It is very touristy. If you want to see where the well-to-do Mexican hang out go to Polanco neighborhood (north of Chapultepec Park). Expensive shops (Boss, Armani, etc) Cafés, Restaurants (especially on Avenida Presidente Masaryk between France and Dumas). Polanco and Chapultepec . • Auditorio Nacional (The National Auditorium) This auditorium is situated on Reforma Avenue, at the artistic and cultural section of Chapultepec Park. It also includes some theaters: El Granero, Orientacion and El Bosque. • Bosque de Chapultepec Willow trees, ash trees, evergreen oaks and Mexican coniferous trees make this green area the largest one in the city. Historic and cultural places of interest in addition to recreational areas are all found here. • Casa del Lago Several cultural activities sponsored by the Autonomous University of Mexico take place here. • Castillo de Chapultepec This splendid neo - classic castle has been the stage for such historic events as an attempted US Army invasion in 1847. It served as the residence for emperor Maximiliano and his wife Carlota in 1866 and later for president Porfirio Diaz. The rooms of these historic figures can be visited today in the Alcazar at the National History Museum. • Juegos Mecanicos C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 15 of 159 Mexico 2004 This park, is located on the Periferico Avenue, southeast of El Molino del Rey. It has a great variety of mechanical games divided into two sections: one for children and the other for adults. Next to it is the Comision Federal de Electricidad museum where machinery and scientific artifacts are exhibited. Next to it is the Fountain of Tlatoc. • LLago de Chapultepec Two artificial lakes measuring eight and seventeen acres respectively are ideal for canoe rides. • Monumento a los Niño Heroes This monument is to honour the Niños Heroes (Heroic Children). It is located in one of the entrances of the Chapultepec Park. It was built in 1952 with the shape of a semicircle with six columns and a bronze eagle on the top of each one. • Museo de Historia Natural This museum exhibits different stages of the universe and human evolution since its origins. • Museo del Niño - Papalote The children's museum is a place to feel, discover and have fun while learning about human beings and the world that surrounds them. • Museo Nacional de Antropologia (The National Museum of Anthropology) This museum is located on Paseo de la Reforma Avenue and Gandhi street in the first section of Chapultepec Park. It keeps thousands of archaeological pieces of prehispanic cultures. In the southeast corner is a giant monolith honouring Tlaloc (God of Rain). It is divided into 23 areas. Around it there is a newspaper library, an auditorium, a library and the National School of Anthropology. • Museo Nacional de Historia (The National Museum of History) This museum is found on the top of the Chapultepec Hill, inside the Capultepec Castle in the old park. It was built in the XVIII century and is surrounded by a wall. It has 20 halls. • Museo Tecnologico de la Comision Federal de Electricidad This museum displays models and drawings which demonstrate the basic principles of science and technology. • Parque Zologico de Chapultepec (The Chapultepec Zoo) This zoo was founded in 1923. It has an area of 14 hectares where animals from all the continents are exhibited. It is said that zoos and botanic gardens, already existed in Tenochtitlan and Chapultepec before they were known in Europe. Among its attractions there is a panoramic train which runs around the zoo. The Botanic Garden with a great variety of plants and trees from all over the world is located on Paseo de la Reforma Avenue and Colegio Militar street. Located on Reforma Avenue and Molino del Rey, is the Corean Pavillion a small Pagoda from the Architectonic School of Korea from the VIII century Chapultepec Park At the end of Paseo de la Reforma avenue looms Chapultepec hill, noteworthy for the centuries-old forest which encircles it and for the castle which crowns its summit. For hundreds of years Chapultepec has been a focal point in this city of such tremendous population growth that an airy expanse of green is absolutely vital. It is complemented by important cultural centers including world-class museums (as the Museum of Anthropology), amusement parks, C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 16 of 159 Mexico 2004 a zoo and lakes, and is crisscrossed by access routes. These routes are most used by hordes of visitors, many of them making up typical extended Mexican families, with their far-reaching family ties. Chapultepec is girdled by some very attractive neighborhoods: Polanco, Condesa, San Miguel and, not far away, Tacubaya. Designed originally as residential enclaves, today they bring together many interesting buildings, cultural centers, restaurants like El Lago, Meridien and Cafetería del Bosque. Main hotels are located just in front of the Park and close to important business areas like Reforma Avenue, Polanco neighborhood, Periferico motorway and not far from Santa Fe complex. Paseo de la Reforma Historical Centre to San Angel The Pink Zone During more than twenty years, the so-callled Zona Rosa has been an excellent area to stay and go shopping. It is conveniently located near the Historical Centre and crossed by Reforma avenue, which is the main commercial and financial axis of the city. Historical Centre Zoom out C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 17 of 159 Mexico 2004 Alameda Park Reforma Avenue Chapultepec Park To Coyoacan y San Angel Points of interest 1. El Angel A. Days Inn C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Main hotels H. Century Page 18 of 159 Mexico 2004 2. Fuente de Diana 3. Iglesia del Santo Niño 4. Arcos del Acueducto 5. Glorieta de Insurgentes 6. Museo de Cera 7. Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón 8. University Club 9. Monumento a Cuauhtémoc 10. Casa-Museo Carranza B. San Marino C. Del Angel D. María Isabel Sheraton E. Westin Galleria Plaza F. Plaza Florencia G. Krystal Rosa I. Royal J. Calinda Geneve K Suites MarcoPolo L. Aristos M. Suites Havre N. María Cristina During 1967, a year clearly marked by the restlessness of the decade, a certain area of the Juarez neighborhood was named the Pink Zone; neither red nor white, but certainly Bohemian and recently renovated to appease the tastes of modern youth. Its elegant hideaways inherited the glamour of bygone times, and it seemed almost as if, in honor of the names of its streets, it had been transplanted from Olde Europe. Taking advantage of the Paseo de la Reforma avenue, Insurgentes avenue, and the Paseo de Bucareli, the Americana neighborhood was laid out in the shape of an elongated triangle whose sides exchanged the traditional north-south orientation for that of a diagonal crisscross pattern. A few years later, in an effort to contain the spiralling increase in the price of land lots for building, which in the case of the Paseo de la Reforma avenue had risen from 50 cents in 1872 to 25 pesos in 1903, the Americana neighborhood changed its name to that of Juarez and Cuauhtemoc. This fact, however, was of no particular concern to its inhabitants who had recently discovered a new way to spend their leisure time thanks to the innovation of electric light (a shining representative of modern times), which allowed them to develop novel habits of late night revelry. In 1951 a succession of whirlwind changes was initiated which would eventually transform the placid residential enclave into a center of business, commercial, social and tourist activity. The decade of the 60´s witnessed the inauguration of bookstores and art galleries under the patronage of artists and intellectuals such as Jose Luis Cuevas, Guadalupe Amor, Manuel Felguerez and Lilia Carillo who were proponents of the new international and intimist styles. Both the general public and international visitors acknowledged the cosmopolitan attraction of the Pink Zone, which encouraged the construction of hotels and the opening of restaurants, handicraft markets, antiques stores and night clubs, not all of which operated within the boundaries of good taste. Today the Pink Zone continues to undergo changes: new boutiques, bars and discotheques have expanded the choices available to those patrons who populate the area in search of entertainment or survival. Thus, beggars, discotheque hawkers, yuppies, foreign tourists, C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 19 of 159 Mexico 2004 nocturnal rodents, revellers, druggies, ladies out shopping and business men blend together at any time of the day or night with the muted colors of the cobble stones, walls and buildings in their quest for the much desired Vie en Rose. • Fuente de La Diana Cazadora (Fountain of La Diana Cazadora) This fountain by Fernando Olaquibel was originally known as "The Archer". It depicts the beautiful Diana Cazadora aiming her arrow at infinity. • Monumento a Cristobal Colon This XIX century monument was a gift from Jose Antonio Escandon and was made in France by Carlos Cordier to commemorate the arrival of the explorer. • Monumento a Cuauhtemoc This sculpture representing the Aztec king Cuauhtemoc "Descending Eagle", is a XIX century piece by Miguel Noreña. • Monumento a La Independencia Created by the architect Antonio Rivas Mercado, this monument is the city's hallmark. The Independence Column measures 118 feet high and the winged victory that crowns it is 22 feet tall, weighs 7 tons, is made of bronze and is coated in gold. The statues at the column's base represent law, justice, war and peace as well as various Mexican heroes like Guerrero, Morelos, Mina and Bravo and are the work of Alciati. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 20 of 159 Mexico 2004 The South • Canal de Cuemanco This channel is located in the town of Xochimilco at the end of Periferico Sur Avenue. It is a 2200 meter long and 125 meter wide race course, which was constructed for the races of oar and canotaje of the Olympic Games in 1968. • Centro Nacional de las Artes This National Center of Arts is the touchstone for various art schools: musicans, graphic artists, performers, and cinematographers. It has its own research centers, a library and a multimedia center. Several art related events take place here, often free of charge. • Ciudad Universitaria (The University City) The University City is located in the southern part of Mexico City via Insurgentes Avenue. The National Autonomous University of Mexico was founded in the XVI century. Its first building was located on Seminario and Moneda streets. This large campus was inaugurated in 1953. It was constructed over a big zone covered with lava from the Xitle volcano. Its main buildings are the Rectory Tower; the Humanities Tower; the Central Library; the Olympic Stadium; and the Arts and Science Museum among others. Inside the Campus there is a Botanic Garden divided into two sections, one is a greenhouse and the other is a large open air garden. On the exterior walls of the Rectory Tower there are some murals painted by Alfaro Siqueiros. The Central Library has murals on mosaic on its four sides made by the painter O'Gorman representing the different stages of the Mexican History. The Auditorium of Sciences has a mural made by Chavez Morado on crystal mosaic with the theme The Conquest of Energy. The School of Sciences has a mural by the same author called The Comeback of Quetzalcoatl. The School of Medicine has some murals of Elguero Eppens with the themes The Prehispanic Culture and The Crossing of Races. The Netzahualcoyotl Hall of Concerts is located in the southern part of this campus and is considered among the most modern concert halls of the world. • Coyoacan Francisco Sosa Avenue leads to Jardin Centenario and Hidalgo Square; throughout it, one can see the Panzacola chapel, from the XVIII century; Santa Catarina chapel, from the XVII century, with its square and theater; the Reyes Heroles Cultural Center, and other colonial - style buildings. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 21 of 159 Mexico 2004 • Coyoacan ex Convento de Churubusco This XVII century convent served as a fortress under General Anaya's orders during the intervention of the US Army in 1847. The National Museum of Interventions now occupies this convent. • Coyoacan Palacio de Cortes Until 1524 this building was the first town hall in New Spain. Rebuilt by the dukes of Terranova in the XVIII century, it now houses the political constituency officers. • Coyoacan Parroquia de San Juan Bautista This church was a Dominican convent temple from the XVI century. It was rebuilt in the XIX century, and its main attractions are the Santisimo chapel and the altar piece from the XVIII century. • Zona Aarqueologica de Cuicuilco (Archaeological Zone of Cuicuilco) This archaeological site is located on Insurgentes and Periferico Avenues. It is one of the Valley's most important ceremonial centers. It is made up of a 25-meter pyramid of five bodies in which top there are some vestiges of an oblong altar. There is also a museum. • San Angel ex Convento de El Carmen Surrounded by gardens, this Carmelite convent built in 1615, houses a viceregal art museum, and works by Correa and Villapando. The temple has beautiful cupolas with glazed tiles. • San Ange Plaza de San Jacinto This romantic plaza is framed by leafy trees and narrow cobblestone streets. It is especially nice on Saturdays when artists display their accomplishments to visitors. • Xochimilco Xochimilco, is located south of Mexico City, beside the Xochimilco lake. Its most important attraction is a tour through the garden chanels aboard a typical Chalupa (a small boat). This region produces great quantities of flowers and vegetables. In Xochimilco you can visit interesting places such as the Franciscan Convent of San Bernardino founded in 1535, which church was built in the XVI century, with a Plateresque-style facade, a great renacentist retable and a baptismal font built in 1540; the Chapel of El Rosario, built in the XVIII century. Four kilometers from Milpa Alta is the San Pedro Actopan town famous because of its Feria del Mole (Mole Fair). Nearby you can also visit Mixquic, a town famous for its celebrations on November 1st and 2nd regarding the Dia de Muertos (The Day of the Dead) C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 22 of 159 Mexico 2004 C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 23 of 159 Mexico 2004 Theotihuacan C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 24 of 159 Mexico 2004 The table below presents views of the ruins of Teotihuacan, the largest prehistoric city in the Americas. Each thumbnail photo is a link to a larger version of the same photograph. The sizes of the linked photos are listed in the table. The thumbnails are medium quality 72 dpi jpegs. The linked images are high quality 72 dpi jpegs. The Pyramid of the Sun is the largest of an immense array of pyramids in the Valley of Mexico, northeast of present-day Mexico City. This view is the westward side as seen from the ancienty city's central avenue, seen at the right. Teotihuacan's central avenue, the so-called 'Avenue of the Dead,' extends southward from the Pyramid of the Moon for four kilometers, past the Pyramid of the Sun and the entrance of the Ciudela. The Quetzalcoatl Pyramid, seen below, is located in the center of the Ciudela. The view of the stepped front facade of the Quetzalcoatl Pyramid illustrates all the elements of the repeating design. The Feathered Serpent and Tlaloc masks project from the facade. 495 x 264 pixels - 64 K. The Quetzalcoatl Pyramid facade has been partially recreated in the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City. Trace amounts of the original paints allowed for a full color recreation. Most surfaces of the multitude of pyramid facades at Teotihuacan were painted with bright colors. Vivid fresco murals also decorated the interiors of buildings. Several are recreated in the museum. A large stone statue from the ruins is housed in the Teotihuacan gallery of the Museum of Anthroplogy. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 25 of 159 Mexico 2004 On the same level and a few feet away are found well preserved murals of eagles and jaguars. Excavations at Teotihuacan have revealed that older structures were infilled and built upon with newer buildings. This view is of an excavated substructure near the Pyramid of the Moon. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 26 of 159 Mexico 2004 Mexico City > Oaxaca Dag Afstand 430 km Reisweg Summary: 430,0 kilometers (6 hours, 56 minutes) Time Km Instruction For 9:00 0,0 Depart Lic Benito Juarez International Airport on Local road(s) (West) 1,3 km 9:02 1,3 Turn LEFT (South) onto Av Río Consúlado [Circuito Interior] 0,2 km 9:03 1,5 Bear RIGHT (South-West) onto Blvr Puerto Aereo [Circuito Interior] 2,0 km 9:07 3,5 Turn LEFT (East) onto Calz Ignacio Zaragoza 11,0 km 9:23 14,5 Bear LEFT (East) onto Autopista a Puebla 1,4 km 9:25 15,9 Bear RIGHT (South-East) onto M-190D [Autopista a Puebla] 9,6 km 9:29 22,5 Entering México 9:31 25,5 *Toll road* Stay on M-190D (East) 9:49 54,5 Entering Puebla 10:24 111,5 Bear RIGHT (South) onto Local road(s) 6,4 km 10:28 117,9 At Puebla, stay on Local road(s) (East) 6,2 km 10:38 124,1 Bear RIGHT (East) onto M-150 29,0 km 11:09 153,1 At Tepeaca, stay on M-150 (South-East) 83,4 km 12:38 236,5 At Tehuacán, continue (East) on M-131 159,0 km 13:34 288,7 Entering Oaxaca 15:29 395,5 At San Francisco Telixtlahuaca, bear LEFT (East) onto M-190 [Inter-American Highway] 33,8 km 15:55 429,3 At Oaxaca, bear RIGHT (South) onto M-175 0,6 km 15:56 429,9 Turn LEFT (East) onto Local road(s) 70 m 15:56 430,0 Arrive Oaxaca 86,1 km SUMMARY Driving distance: 430,0 kilometers Total travel time: 6 hours, 56 minutes Driving time: 6 hours, 56 minutes Cost: 83,98 € C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 27 of 159 Mexico 2004 C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 28 of 159 Mexico 2004 Popocatepetl en "Liggende Vrouw" Popocatepetl - 2001. Photograph copyrighted and provided by Daniel Hatcher C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 29 of 159 Mexico 2004 PUEBLA Puebla State is located in the extreme east of the basin of the river Balsas, in the Saw Eastern Mother, between the parallel 17º 52' and 20º 40' of north latitude and the meridian 96º 44' and 99º 04' of west length. Limit to the north with the State of Veracruz, to the west with the State of Hidalgo, State of Tlaxcala, State of Estado de Mexico and with the State of Morelos and to the south with the State of Guerrero and with the State of Oaxaca. Politically it is split into 217 municipalities and a population of approximately 5'076,686 inhabitants.v In the territory that currently occupies the State of Puebla, with an extension of 33,919 km2, they were established villas and cities that thereinafter were converted in "Intendency of Puebla" and finally, by decree of the 3 of February of 1924, in Free and Sovereign State. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 30 of 159 Mexico 2004 Its agricultural production, cattleraising and industrial, Puebla is important, but much more its history and indigenous culture and also its colonial art. Beautiful cities and large amusements are waiting, if is decided on visit. The climate varies according to the region and thus we can find the climate tempered in the declivity of the Gulf, the same as in the north Saw, where rains in abundant form. In the plains, prevail the dry climate and of steppe. In the snowfall saw, the climate is tempered and wet, with temperature decreases in winter. In the valleys of Puebla City and Tepeaca, the climate is tempered and wet and in the eastern region, are registered variations that go from the tropical rainy until the polar climate in the high mountain. In Matamores and Chiautla the climate is tropical rainy and in the southern region, dry and of steppe. The Cathedral was built in the XVIII Century, is one of the bigest from all over America, it has inside a wonderfull decoration. The Cathedral is one of the most interesting sites in the city. Ubication: CATHEDRAL (1) "3 Oriente" Av. and "16 de Septiembre" St., "Centro Histórico". C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 31 of 159 Mexico 2004 This fountain represents the Welcome symbol to Puebla city. The fountain is built out of quarry stone that is a characteristic material in many other monuments of the city. Ubication LOS SANTOS Fountain (2) Aaron Merino Fernández Blv. and Juárez Av The streets at the downtown has many "Colonial" buildings from XVII and XVIII century with iron balcony and the front with ornamental tile and grass mat style brick walls. La calle 7 Poniente en el Centro Histórico (3) Ubication "7 poniente" av. between "16 de Septiembre" and "3 norte" st. This park was built in the old Air Field. This is a big lung for the city and a wonderfull place to take a walk. Into the park there is an aviary with the most important bird species from all the State of Puebla. Ubication: ECOLOGICAL PARK (4) "24 Sur" street between "M.A. Camacho" avenue and "35 Oriente" avenue Just in the down town is the Zocalo with it's gardens, monuments, and the famous "San Miguel" fountain. The big trees give a quiet and nice place to take a break. Ubication ZOCALO (5) "M.A. Camacho" Av and "16 de Septiembre" St. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 32 of 159 Mexico 2004 This Palace is the official city hall. The front is made out of stone brick and was built in the 30's. Inside the hall you should visit the "Salón de Cabildos". Ubication PALACIO MUNICIPAL (6) "M.A. Camacho" Av. and "2 Norte" street Tepeaca Tepeaca is located 92 km from Puebla City via federal highway 150 in the State of Puebla, Mexico. In the center of the plaza of Tepeaca is found the Moorish Roller, once used to torture Indians, converted now into a four-sided clock. Some other outstanding places to visit in Tepeaca are: The San Francisco Convent The House of El Marquez de Salinas The Casa de la Colecturia Onyx items are among its main handicrafts C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 33 of 159 Mexico 2004 Tehuacan Tehuacan is located 120 km from Puebla City, via federal highway 150 in the State of Puebla, Mexico. Tehuacan is famous because of its natural mineral springs which waters posses curative properties. Among Tehuacan main touristic places are: The Regional Museum, which is considered to be the most important archaeological museum in the State The Franciscan Temple and Convent Del Carmen Temple La Concepcion Parish Iglesia del Calvario Ex-Convento de San Francisco Museo de Minerologia Jardin Botanico de las Cactaceas Manantiales de Peñafiel y Garci-Crespo Zona Arqueologica la Meza Delicious regional cuisine includes Chiles en Nogada (sweet green peppers in nut sauce) and Mole decadera. Regarding handicrafts, the most important are the onyx, textiles, woven straw articles and embroideries. The name Tehuacan can be translated as "Place of the Gods" or "Place of Stones." (Barrera, 1946) The area is littered with caves and arroyos. In early 1960, archaeologist Richard MacNeish was in Mesoamerica looking for signs of early agriculture. He collected information from excavations in other portions of Mexico that led him to believe the Tehuacan Valley was an excellent area for the beginnings of agriculture. He conducted a survey of schoolteachers in the area of Tehuacan and areas to the north and south of the valley regarding caves in the areas and artifacts found. After numerous false leads, he investigated Coxcatlan Cave in the valley. Subsequent excavations in the cave uncovered 28 zones, making Coxcatlan a richly stratified site. The Tehuacan Archaeology and Botanical Project had begun. The participants came from the fields of archaeology, botany, geology and many others. Excavators included Kent Flannery, Richard MacNeish, Douglas Byers and Fredrick Johnson. The purpose: to reconstruct the subsistence patterns of the area and to trace the roots of early agriculture. The Tehuacan Valley contains nine distinct levels of cultural change. These levels are referred to as phases. From early to late they are: C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 34 of 159 Mexico 2004 Ajuereado Phase(ended well before 6500 BC) The attributes of this phase are traces of cave occupation and a few chipped stone tools (MacNeish 1961). El Riego Phase (6500-5000 BC) This phase shows evidence of wet-season and dryseason camps, hints of plant cultivation, chipped stone tools, groundstone implements, nets, coiled baskets, twined mats and ritualistic multiple burials with suggestions of human sacrifice (MacNeish 1961). Coxcatlan Phase (5000-3500 BC) This phase contains fewer sites with larger groups of people for a longer time, firm evidence of cultivation of corn, beans, squash and chili peppers, chipped and groundstone tools, and improved basket making and netting (MacNeish 1961). Abejas Phase (3500-2300 BC) Attributes of this phase are possible year round pit house villages along the river terraces, a diet consisting of 20% agricultural products, evidence of domestication of dogs, new types of chipped and groundstone artifacts, split-stitch baskets and possibly cotton threads (MacNeish 1961). Purron Phase (2300-1500 BC) This phase contains only two cave occupations and a crude, crumbly type of pottery (MacNeish 1961). Ajalpan Phase (1500-900 BC) Attributes of this phase are wattle and daub villages, evidence of subsistence farming, corn, beans, squash, chili peppers, amaranth, avocados, sapotes, cotton and figurines (MacNeish 1961). Santa Maria Phase (900-200 BC) This phase contains indications of population growth, the first structural evidence of true irrigation, improved lines of corn and other vegatables, larger villages with ceremonial structures, well made pottery, figurines which provide inferences of religious and secular organization, new stone tools and woven cotton cloth (MacNeish 1961). Palo Blanco Phase (200 B.C.-A.D. 700) This phase contains evidence of regularly used irrigation, peanuts, guavas, turkeys, large hill-top centers with elaborate stone pyramids, plazas, ball courts, suggestions of priests or king priests rule, finely made obsidian tools, bark cloth, woven fabrics and fine pottery (MacNeish 1961). Venta Salada Phase (AD 700-1540) Attributes of this phase are often fortified citystates, shrines, salt production sites, quarry towns, a wide range of irrigation features, a hieroglyphic system that made possible documentation of elaborate religious systems, a calendrical system and ceremonialism (MacNeish 1961). Oaxaca Oaxaca State is found southwest of Mexico limit to the north with the State of Veracruz and with the State of Puebla; to the south, with the Pacific Ocean, to the west with the State of Chiapas and to the West with the State of Guerrero. Oaxaca occupy a surface of 93,952 km2 (4.85% of the total surface of Mexico), and a population of approximately 3'438,765 inhabitants. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 35 of 159 Mexico 2004 Oaxaca is located in a tropical zone and its average temperature is of 29º C., though by it injured of its earthly the climates are very assorted. In the coastal region of the Pacific it is hot and dry: as in Yautepec, Putla, part of Huajuapan of León and Silacayoapan. Hot and wet, with tropical forest vegetation, in the low lands of the coastal of the Pacific and the decreases watershed of the coastal of the Pacific and the watershed of the Mother Saw. Climate tempered in: the Valley of Oaxaca, Villa Alta and the mountainous region of Choapan, thus as part of Juxtlahuaca, Silacayoapan and Sola de Vega. The cold climate prevails in the places that has but of 2,000 meters of altitude. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 36 of 159 Mexico 2004 C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 37 of 159 Mexico 2004 Church of Santo Domingo Zócalo La Ciudad de Oaxaca esta aproximadamente a seis horas en camión desde la Ciudad de México, fue declarada patimonio cultural de la humanidad por la UNESCO y con sobrada razón. Es un lugar increible. La plaza de la constitución es el núcleo de la ciudad, junto a ella apreciarán a la catedral que data de 1535, sin embargo, debido al sismo de 1696 se construyo el edificio que se puede apreciar actualmente. Al sur del centro se localiza el templo de la Compañia, construcción de los Jesuitas del siglo XVII que también ha sido restaurado después de sufrir con los mencionados temblores. Son inumerables los templos que pueden visitar en la ciudad de Oaxaca y ello les puede tomar un par de días entre galerias, museos y monumentos. El mejor lugar para comer es el mercado 20 de noviembre, en el centro, ahí encontrarán el tradicional mole, las tlayudas, el chocolate en agua, los chapulines y el mezcal. Anexo a ese mercado se encuentra el de Benito Juaréz que cuenta con buenos locales de artesanías y textiles de todo el estado. Es esencial visitar el ex convento de Santo Domingo que aloja al Museo Regional de Oaxaca ubicado a pocas cuadras al norte de la plaza de la constitución. Es una joya colonial del siglo XVI de la orden Dominica, aunque la casa conventual no se concluyó sino hasta mediados del siguiente siglo. Si van a Oaxaca en la segunda quincena de julio no se pierdan la Guelaguetza, esta reúne a los principales grupos de música y danza de las distintos grupos étnicos del estado que se complementa con los “lunes de cerro”, celebración dedicada a la virgen del Carmen que incorpora los rituales indígenas dedicados a las deidades de la lluvia y la fertilidad. A pesar de la excesiva comercialización de esté evento, es un buen acercamiento a las tradiciones oaxaqueñas, por cierto, va muchisima gente y si ven algo que dice expo guelaguetza ni vayan ya que no hay nada que se relacione con dicho evento, es un buen pretexto para poner locales de comida rápida y obtener créditos bancarios. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 38 of 159 Mexico 2004 MUSEO REGIONAL DE OAXACA Las figuras de la izquierda provienen de Monte Alban, cerca de la ciudad de Oaxaca, un sitio que primeramente alojó a la cultura Zapoteca y para tiempos posclásicos a los Mixtecos. A la derecha se muestran figuras de Cuilapan, también ciudad de raigambre zapoteca y lozalizada al sur de los valles centrales. La orfebrería alcanzó un excelente nivel en el México antiguo, muestra de ello lo tenemos en estos dos ejemplos. El segundo pertenece a la tumba 7 de Monte Alban. También encontrarán piezas de la mixteca como esta del Cerro de las Minas. En este museo encontrarás mucho más.. Restaurants Lots of sidewalk cafe/restaurants on the Zócalo. They are a bit touristy but perfect to watch the life on the Zócalo. I liked esp. Mario´s on the east side (good salads, ensalada mixta is pure vegetarian) and DelJardin on the west side (good plata especial oaxaqueña, a selection of local specialties, includes a big crisp tortilla, enough for 2, N$42). C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 39 of 159 Mexico 2004 Many places for a cheap set lunch (comida corrida) everywhere in the center, starting with N$8! Decent ones charge about N$20 for soup, salad, main dish, desert and soft drink, e.g. La Olla on Reforma 402. Good local food also in María Bonita on Alcalá (a few block north of Sto. Domingo). I did not like very much La Casa dela Abuela on the northwest corner of the Zócalo, entrance on Hidalgo (1st floor). The Parillada Oaxaqueña (N$59) is a heap of meat, cold, not very delicate. The location is admittedly unique. Try to get a table at the window with a view of the cathedral or the Zócalo. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 40 of 159 Mexico 2004 Monte Alban C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 41 of 159 Mexico 2004 Monte Alban was the ancient capital of the Zapotecs and one of the first cities in Mesoamerica. During it's epoch, it was one of the most populated. It was founded approximately 500 years BC and flourished until 750 AD. Located in the central valley of Oaxaca, Monte Alban exercised political, economic, and ideological control over the other communities and surrounding mountains. Its principal constructions include the Great Plaza, the Ball Court, System II, The Danzantes (Dancers), Building J, Central Building G.H., the Palace, the southern platform, System 7 Deer and Tomb Number 7 of the Great Plaza. The Ball Court is located to the left of the entrance to the Great Plaza, and has the defining characteristics of ball courts in this region. This court is marked by two structures at the sides of the rectangular base, with slanting walls. A sculpture representing a grasshopper covers most of the western side. The platform located on the western side contains a stair case flanked by two alfardas that end in talud, with two stelae in the largest part; there are two small niches contained there. System II is a structure consisting of two bodies with a staircase, flanked by two alfardas, ending in talud with two panels of double escapulario. In the largest area a small temple with a rectangular base and five columns in front and still others at the back without later walls. To the south of this area is a tunnel constructed with a vaulted roof that connects to the central building. Los Danzantes, constructed in three sections, belongs to Epoch IIB. Its walls of talud are covered with polished lapidas with representations of human figures in strange positions, and with physical traits characteristic of Olmec sculpture. Building "J" is separated from the other building, and is without doubt one of the most interesting, owing to its orientation and form. Resembling an arrow point, it has two bodies. Its staircase is oriented toward the northwest, its vertical walls are covered with inscribed lapidas, and they believe that its inside chamber functioned for astronomical observations but this hasn't been proved. This construction dates to Epoch II. The Central Buildings G, H and I are located in the central part of the Great Plaza. The central building "H" is larger than the other two with a large staircase and two tombs. In the larger part we find a temple with two chambers and two columns at the entrance, very close to the lateral walls. They believe that this construction belongs to Epoch IIIA, and was used until C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 42 of 159 Mexico 2004 the end of Epoch IIIB. In front of the principal staircase is a small templete with a cuadrangular base, where we find the famous mask of the Bat God, covered in jade. The Palace is a two-part structure with a central staircase, with alfardos ending in the form of talud. In the upper part are 13 rooms grouped around a central patio. The doorway of this grouping is a dintel, recently arranged. The Southern Platform is a very large structure that closed the plaza on this side. Of the two parts, in the larger part are two mounds, and from this spot one can observe all of the great ceremonial plaza. In the smaller part of this and in the corners various stelae are built-in with zoomorphic reliefs, as if some type of offering. System 7 Deer: To reach this location we recommend walking over the largest part of the southern platform, toward the southern platform in a southeastern direction. It is located approximately 250 meters from the main plaza. There are four structures surrounding a plaza oriented toward the four cardinal points. Tomb Number 7: On the 6 of January 1932, the Mexican archaeologist Dr. Alfonso Caso encountered a grave with a rich quantity of offerings. This is considered a great archaeological treasure, displayed in the Regional Museum of Oaxaca. This tomb is arranged on a rectangular base containing in front a bedroom and vaulted chamber. It is one of few tombs to have been found, and even though the building had deteriorated a bit, the treasures were intact. Location The state of Oaxaca is located in the southeastern area of Mexico. The archeological zone Mote Alban is located 10 km. west of the state capital, Oaxaca City. Approximate travel time to the site is 15 minutes travelling on the Oaxaca-Monte Alban highway. Additional Information The archaeological zone of Monte Alban, belonging to the Zapotec culture, is one of the most important in the area of Oaxaca. Its cultural development and monumental architecture has become representative of the region, and the Mesoamerican culture area. The prehispanic capital is located at the summit of a hill that rises in the southwest of Oaxaca City. It is located at 1948 meters above sea level (400 more C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 43 of 159 Mexico 2004 than the level of the valley of Oaxaca). The prehispanic name of Monte Alban has not been identified with precision. The most closely related descendants of the Zapotecs mention a hill that was known as Dhauya quch o Dauyacach, or the "Hill of the Sacred Stones". On the other hand, the Mixtecs know it as Yucucui, or "Green Hill". At the beginning of the 17th century, this spot came to be known as Monte Alban, owing to the fact that at that time, the lands belonged to a Spaniard with the surname of Monte Alban or Montalban. Dr. Alfonso Caso, a Mexican archaeologist, led one of the first explorations and restorations of this archaeological zone. His project, completed in 18 stages, began in 1931 and finished in 1953. Based on studies of the architecture of the buildings, tombs, ceramics, and jewelry, he determined that the history of Monte Alban could be divided into distinct epochs based on social organization, population density, and exchange systems. In this manner he established 5 epochs designated as Monte Alban I, II, III, IV and V; beginning in the year 500 BC and lasting through 1521; each of these epochs is further subdivided. These epochs represent a total of 14 centuries of continuous occupation, plus six other centuries during which, for some reason, although the site had been abandoned, it remained important to the inhabitants of the Valley of Oaxaca. From this we recognize that the two cultures which made the prehispanic history of Oaxaca were the Zapotec and Mixtec. The restored area contains the center of an ancient Zapotec city: Reaching 7 miles in total, this extends to more than 20 square km. The Main Plaza, the central area of the site, is surrounded by basamentos pyramids, terraces, plazas, patios and temples and palaces. Most of the stone architecture appears to have been constructed in the final epoch; however, in some buildings you can see that initial construction began in the first epoch, with later construction through the course of the centuries. The buildings are characterized by horizontal design, accentuated by staircases bordered by alfardos that finish with a wall, formed of double escapulario, a typical Zapotec version of the Teotihuacan talud-tablero theme. *The escapulario panel, a decorative element, is characterized by its silhouette in the form of an E, reclining and stretching, reinforced by its simple repetition, gives a unity to the diverse buildings of the site.* The most characteristic buildings surround the plaza: the Ball Court, Temple II, Temple P, East Palace and Temple Q (eastern side); the Ball Court stands out for its integrity, and the East Palace for the rooms it contains. Temples G, H, I and J (at the center of the plaza); Building J, considered to be the first astronomical observatory in Mesoamerica, is very characteristic due to the declining of its central axis relative to the other buildings, and for its reliefs designated de las conquistas. The South Platform (in the south) stands out because it is monumental and because of its reliefs at the base, which represent numbers, writings, and people that define chronological scenes and war. System M, the Wall of the Danzantes, Building L, Building K, and System IV (western side). The Wall of the Danzantes contains a series of stelae that, according to reliefs, represent humans whose movement suggest the name. Because of their physical characteristics they are considered to represent Olmec culture, identified as the oldest C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 44 of 159 Mexico 2004 in Mesoamerica. Northern Platform, Sunken Patio, Buildings A and B, Bertice Geodesico Building (Northern Side). The Northern Platform is known for its size and because of the congregation of various platforms. Tomb 104, located at the back of the North Platform, is known for its mural paintings, dinteles, jambas with reliefs and clay funeral offerings. Tomb 107, where Dr. Caso found the treasures of Monte Alban, is located on the northeastern part, isolated from the main plaza. The structures around the Main Plaza are diverse, and have been identified as living areas, tombs, and entire communities. The site's museum is located at the entrance to Monte Alban, and there visitors can learn about the other sites to visit inside the archaeological zone. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 45 of 159 Mexico 2004 Mitla C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 46 of 159 Mexico 2004 Description Mitla was the second most important ceremonial center after Monte Alban. The name Mitla or Mictlan is of Nahuatl origin and means "Place of the Dead" or "Inframundo". In Zapotec it is called "Lyobaa", which means "Burial Place", and in Mexico it became known as Mictlan, "Place of the Dead" which is shortened in Spanish to Mitla. The archaeological site and town itself are Zapotec. Mitla was inhabited in the Classic Period (100-650 DC), with its greatest growth and height in the Post Classic period (750-1521 DC). The most characteristic architecture in Mitla is the group of the columns, where we find the Great House of Pezelao, generally considered to be the most beautiful archaeological site in the Americas. The group contains two squares. The northern one is bordered by platforms on all four side. The main building is in the northern part. In the central patio there are vestiges of an altar. Its is made of talud, formed by two bands raised over the base, the panel and the cornice. The great Hall of Columns is rectangular. You pass through this hallway to enter the main palace which is behind a narrow door. Leaving this passageway we find the decorated patio, which provides access to each of the four salons. Each is decorated by three panels with ornate mosaics of carved stone which forms different geometric designs in each band. The panels contain thousands of polished stones, which are cut to fit without mortar. The most beautiful tombs are located in the northern and eastern buildings, where the Zapotec priests and kings were buried. In the first, in front of the stairs, is the entrance to a cruciform tomb, with antechamber. The ceiling has large single stone dinteles and the walls are decorated with ornate mosaic panels. The eastern is characterized by a monolithic stone column that supports the ceiling. Location Mitla is located 46 km. east of the City of Oaxaca, the state capital, on Federal Highway 190 (Oaxaca-Tehuantepec). It takes approximately 50 minutes to arrive. The archaeological site is located in the center of town at the corner of Calle Benito Juarez and Avenida Juarez. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 47 of 159 Mexico 2004 Oaxaca > Tehuantepec Dag Afstand 227.3 km Reisweg Summary: 227,3 kilometers (3 hours, 3 minutes) Time Km Instruction For 9:00 0,0 Depart Oaxaca on Local road(s) (West) 70 m 9:00 0,1 Turn RIGHT (North) onto M-175 3,5 km 9:03 3,6 At Tlalixtac de Cabrera, bear RIGHT (East) onto M-190 [Inter-American Highway] 33,7 km 9:29 37,3 Turn RIGHT (South) onto Local road(s) 1,0 km 9:31 38,3 At Tlacolula de Matamoros, return North on Local road(s) 1,0 km 9:33 39,3 Turn RIGHT (East) onto M-190 [Inter-American Highway] 8,8 km 9:40 48,1 Bear LEFT (East) onto Local road(s) 3,6 km 9:46 51,7 At San Pablo Villa de Mitla, return West on Local road(s) 3,6 km 9:53 55,2 Turn LEFT (South) onto M-190 [Inter-American Highway] 171,4 km 12:03 226,7 At Tehuantepec, bear LEFT (North-East) onto M-200 [Inter-American Highway] 0,6 km 12:03 227,3 Arrive Tehuantepec SUMMARY Driving distance: 227,3 kilometers Total travel time: 3 hours, 3 minutes Driving time: 3 hours, 3 minutes Cost: 43,81 € C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 48 of 159 Mexico 2004 Tlacolula Sunday market at Tlacolula C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 49 of 159 Mexico 2004 Entre la ciudad de Oaxaca y Mitla se localiza esta población, ya con tintes de ser una pequeña ciudad, pero que ha podido conservar un excelente mercado los días domingos. En él podrán observar como los indigenas venden cualquier tipo de producto que va desde víveres hasta textiles. No tendrán problema para encontrar hospedaje en este sitio. Las fiestas son como siguen: 3 de mayo.- fiesta de las cruces, se realizan procesiones, sones y bailes por barrios, empieza en el barrio de la sexta, después cada lunes en cada uno (5 más). 8 de julio.- fiesta de la preciosa sangre, se lleva a cabo la danza de la pluma. segundo domingo de octubre.- Santo señor de Tlacolula, también hay danza de la pluma, procesiones y convite de flores. Es buena oportunidad para ir a la terminal y dirigirse a Santa Ana del Valle que es un lugar parecido al cercanoTeotitlán del Valle, ya que venden tapetes con figuras geométricas, no son tan famosos como los de Teotitlán pero poseen la misma calidad. Ya que estamos en Santa Ana, deberán visitar el museo comunitario que concentra una colección de piezas prehispánicas encontradas en la región, además de tener una sala de etnología. Por ahí rentan bicicletas de montaña en las que podrán ir a la ya cercana Sierra Juárez. Santa Ana esta a escasos 6 km. de Tlacolula y constantemente sale trasporte que conecta ambos poblados. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 50 of 159 Mexico 2004 Tehuantepec Tehuantepec is situated 251 km from Oaxaca City on the federal highway 190 in the State of Oaxaca, Mexico. Tehuantepec traditions and folklore are famous in the State of Oaxaca. Has beautiful natural places which form unforgettable landscapes. The main handicrafts are its regional hand-embroidered dresses, gold jewelry and ceramics. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 51 of 159 Mexico 2004 Tehuantepec > San Cristobal de Las Casas Dag Afstand 345.2 km Reisweg Summary: 345,2 kilometers (4 hours, 42 minutes) Time Km Instruction For 9:00 0,0 Depart Tehuantepec on M-200 [Inter-American Highway] (East) 119,7 km 10:30 119,7 At San Pedro Tapanatepec, bear LEFT (East) onto M-190 142,9 km 10:41 134,8 Entering Chiapas 12:17 262,6 At Tuxtla Gutiérrez, stay on M-190 (East) 1,6 km 12:18 264,1 Turn LEFT (North) onto Local road(s) 10,0 km 12:37 274,2 At Parque Nacional del Cañón del Sumidero, return South on Local road(s) 10,0 km 12:56 284,2 Turn LEFT (East) onto M-190 61,0 km 13:42 345,2 Arrive San Cristóbal de las Casas SUMMARY Driving distance: 345,2 kilometers Total travel time: 4 hours, 42 minutes Driving time: 4 hours, 42 minutes Cost: 66,55 € C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 52 of 159 Mexico 2004 CHIAPAS C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 53 of 159 Mexico 2004 Chiapas is located on the south end of Mexico, it is bounded on the east by Guatemala, on the north by Tabasco, on the west by Veracruz and Oaxaca, and to the southeast by the Pacific Ocean. Chiapas has a territorial extension of 4,415 km2 (1,704 mile2), and occupy the eighth place on Mexico, and a population of approximately 3'920,892 inhabitants. It has 260 km of littoral, facing it coast there is an exclusive economic zone of 87.984 km2 (33,970 mile2). The Chiapas name come from the Nahuatl compound word "CHIA" and "APAN" (in the river), that is to say "Chia river". In this majestic state you can find all that is offered by the nature, cut through by plentiful rivers, hills and volcanoes, and impenetrable jungles. It has hundreds of lakes, waterfalls, as well as an exceptional flora and fauna. To the enumerated list we have to add the petroleum, since, on this state is produced a third part of the crude oil that is extracted in Mexico. Chiapas also produce precious woods as the Mahogany and the Rosewood, that are used to make good quality furnitures and beautiful carvings. The water of the huge dams Malpaso, Angostura and Chicoasen, is here accumulated in dozen of rivers and lagoons. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 54 of 159 Mexico 2004 Here we only mention some of the Chiapas wonders, but visit them can take several weeks, so we recommend the visitor to choose in advance the places you want to visit, depending on available time and interest. Any way, a trip along these places will be an unforgettable and enriching experience. The prevailing climate is the tropical Sudanese and the rainy mild with rainfalls in summer. The north area of the central valley of Chiapas is dry; and the south area is humid. It average temperature is of 20º C., and the extreme maxim is 40º C., and extreme minimum is 0º C. Tuxtla-Guttierraes Tuxtla Gutierrez is located in the State of Chiapas, 1,081 km southeast of Mexico City via federal highway 190. It is the capital of the State. Among its main attractions are: The Plaza Civica (the Main Square) The San Marcos Cathedral building in the middle of the XVI century, and throughout the centuries it has suffered several reconstructions, and even then it is a sample of Colonial architecture of Chiapas. The tower houses a rail with 48 bells, which accompany the figures of the Apostles that march on a pedestal every hour. It is a traditional show. The Madero Park which houses: o the Regional Museum of the State with two permanent exhibitions one of Mayan o archaeological pieces and other ones regarding the history of the State through ethnographic collections The Botanical Garden A Theater which has a great variety of flora from different regions of the State The Centro de Convivencia Infantil (Center for Children) with a pool, games for children, etc. The Natural History Museum which exhibition of woods is unique in the Country Another interesting place you can visit is the "Miguel Alvarez del Toro" Zoo, which is one of the best ones in Latin America, inhabited by: o jaguars o eagles o serpents o birds among other beautiful animals. The visitor can find here a bookstore, a snack bar, areas for pic-nics and a parking area C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 55 of 159 Mexico 2004 The Tuxtla Gutierrez local artisans make beautiful handicrafts such as: bracelets earrings chains costume dresses wood pieces wickerworks, etc. that you can purchase at Ischanal Market Regarding regional cuisine, you can enjoy delicious dishes such as: tamales de jacuanae chipilin arroz zoque chispola you can also savor traditional beverages such as: o o o water of chia jamaica cacao C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 56 of 159 Mexico 2004 Sumidero Canyon C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 57 of 159 Mexico 2004 El cañon del Sumidero esta a diez kilometros de Tuxtla, la mejor manera de conocerlo es navegando mediante lanchas que salen del muelle de Chiapa de Corzo, si contratan pocas personas el viaje puede llegar a salir muy caro, pero si esperan a que se llene la lancha saldrá mucho más económico. Este cañon posee unas paredes de hasta 600 metros de altura dando un paisaje impresionante. En el recorrido existen varias paradas entre ellas encontramos el "arbol de navidad" esta es una caida de agua que es alimentada por la lluvia que es filtrada por la montaña, como es de sobreentender la forma se asemeja a un árbol de navidad, en el camino tambien encontramos una cueva que puede ser visitada siempre y cuando no este arriba el nivel del agua, en ella podemos observar murciélagos en su habitat. Otra de las paradas en una pequeña cueva al fondo de la cual se venera a la Vírgen de Guadalupe en un pequeño altar. Aquí se realizan procesiones el 12 de diciembre, espero que no sea pretexto para perjudicar el ecosistema que por cierto ya se encuentra bastante contaminado debido en parte a que ahí se vierten las aguas residuales del vecino Tuxtla Gutierrez y en parte a la basura no biodegradable tirada por los visitantes. Esto lo constatamos cuando un individuo de nula conciencia arrojó contra una iguana un envase de refresco para ver si le pegaba, de la misma manera durante todo el viaje encontramos envases regados por todo el cañon. Al final del recorrido se encuentra la presa Chicoasen, ejemplo de lo que pueden hacer los buenos ingenieros Mexicanos. Si corren con suerte pueden encontrarse con fauna de mayor tamaño como cocodrilos, ya son pocos y sí encuentran alguno, porfavor no le hagan nada C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 58 of 159 Mexico 2004 San Cristobal de Las Casas San Cristobal de las Casas is a Colonial City and was the capital of the State of Chiapas, Mexico; is characterized because of its dry and cold climate. Among its main attractions are: The Cathedral, the Santo Domingo Temple an Ex-Convent, where embroideries and beautiful handicrafts are made The The The The La Caridad and San Nicolas Temples Del Carmen Church Municipal Palace Na-Bolom Center created for attracting scientific and students from all over the world, interested in learning about the Mayan culture The San Cristobal Market In San Cristobal de las Casas you can purchase a great variety of handicrafts such as: costume dresses C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 59 of 159 Mexico 2004 tinwares pottery wickerwork among others Regarding its gastronomy, liquors and drinks made from cornflour are outstanding as well as delicious bread. Ten kilometers from San Cristobal de las Casas you find the San Cristobal Recreational Park famous for its interesting caverns. San Cristobal de las Casas, lovely Colonial town situated in the highlands of the state of Chiapas, is the ideal place to remain two or here days visiting its main interesting sites such as the San Cristobal Martyr Cathedral or the Na-Bolom Museum, cultural center of the region, and later on depart towards one of the most interesting archaeological zones, Palenque, cradle of the mythical and ancestral Pakal King. San Cristobal Palenque Leaving by road at an early hour you pass by the Tenejapa and San Juan Cancuc towns. To the south of these settlements you will find the Cillon, Bachajon and Temo villages until you get to Ocosingo, where we recommend visiting the cathedral and taste the cheese that the natives manufacture. In Ocosingo there is a detour to visit the archaeological zone of Tonina, one of the largest Mayan settlements in the area. Visit, it will be a good experience. Continue by road 199 towards the north, pass again by Temo and arrive to the famous Agua Azul Waterfall, where you can have lunch and refresh yourself in their blue waters. Further on, approximately 45 minutes later, you will find the Misol-Ha Waterfall, a beautiful recreation place where you can spend the night in comfortable cabins to depart the next day towards Palenque. The town of Palenque is found at only 15 minutes away from the archaeological site. It has an airport and its hotel offer is very wide. The five star Mision Hotel is located one side of the downtown area, and in La Cañada, which is beautiful, we find the Chablis, Maya Palenque and C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 60 of 159 Mexico 2004 Tulija Hotels. This last one is located on the highway towards the airport. It is a four star hotel, clean and comfortable. The ancient city of Palenque is a very interesting place. It cannot be seen in one day. We recommend that you spend three days visiting the site's museum, where among many treasures, you will be able to admire the "Red Queen" Pectoral, carved in stone. Entering by the exuberant path that is located almost in front of the museum, you can begin your visit until you cross a hanging bridge in the middle of the jungle and arrive at a sweet water creek, which is known as "The Queen's Bath". Being in this Pre Hispanic place, you can visit The Great Plaza, The Bats, and very specially, the most important and imposing construction that dominates the plaza, known as the Temple of the Inscriptions, where Pakal's Grave is located Zinacantàn Fue la capital Tzotzil en tiempos de la conquista europea y actualmente es uno de los principales centros ceremoniales de ese grupo. Para llegar, es sólo necesario tomar un colectivo desde San Cristobal de las Casas que se localizan cerca del mercado y en un viaje de 15 a 20 minutos llegarán. Les recomiendo lleven suficiente dinero ya que la venta de textiles es lo único que podrán llevarse del lugar y realmente vale la pena obtener un Poncho para hombres o un Chal para mujeres ya que estan completamente bordados y realmente son una obra maestra. Las ceremonias son completamente devocionales, es una experiencia maravillosa ver a los Mayordomos y a los Alferes encabezando las procesiones, que por cierto, recuerdenlas bien ya que no se permite fotografiar. Esto creo que antes de ser malo, ha sido un excelente medio para conservar pura la tradición, yo les recomiendo no meterse en problemas y disfruten sin tratar de tomar fotografías a las procesiones y al interior de las iglesias. El museo comunitario Snajsotz`Lebetik - La Casa de los Murciélagos - aunque pequeño, alberga una buena colección de textiles y datos de la región Tzotzil y sobre todo de Zinacantán, éste museo se localiza cerca de la iglesia del Señor de Esquipulas en las afueras, buen pretexto para visitar dicho templo. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 61 of 159 Mexico 2004 Vale la pena visitar el lugar los días de fiesta, estos son: La fiesta de San Sebastian (19-22 de ene), Señor de Esquipulas (13-15 ene), la fiesta de Carnaval (varia durante febrero) y la más importante es la del santo patrono San Lorenzo (811 Ags). En Zinacantán no existe hospedaje pero por la cercanía a San Cristobal, esto no representa problema, además pueden visitar el mismo día la vecina San Juan Chamula. Tenejape San Juan Chamula San Juan Chamula is located 10 km from San Cristobal de las Casas in the State of Chiapas, Mexico. In San Juan Chamula have a mixture of Catholic and Prehispanic traditions shown in the Del Pueblo Temple, where the saints are venerated with prehispanic rites. Local artisans of San Juan Chamula make beautiful embroideries. A tan sólo 10 km. al noroeste de San Cristobal, se localiza la mayor concentración de Tzotziles del país: San Juan Chamula o - Agua Densa - con 40,000 nativos hacen de éste lugar merecedor para su visita. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 62 of 159 Mexico 2004 Para llegar ahí se necesita tomar un colectivo desde el mercado municipal de San Cristobal, también existen los taxis colectivos, y cobran exactamente lo mismo, por eso, es recomendable tomar el que salga primero. Cuando llegue al centro, el presidente municipal daba su informe en Tzotzil y la oposición le arrebatía su discurso, las cosas se estaban poniendo un poco densas, llegue a pensar que se soltarian los golpes, pero no paso de ahí. Poco después todo regreso a la tranquilidad. Pues bien, para poder entrar a la iglesia necesitan un permiso de la secretaria de turismo, no lejos de ahí. Sí es día festivo, en la puerta habrá un vigilante Tzotzil, a él habrá que pedirle permiso y caso solucionado. Dentro de la iglesia se prohibe de manera determinante tomar fotografías, razón por la cual no incluí en la página. A pesar de ello, es uno de los pocos lugares en México donde se puede apreciar un ambiente así. El copal y el incienso se dejan sentir inmediatamente, grupos de velas colocadas por los fieles acompañados muchas veces de cantos en su lengua madre pidiendo o agradeciendo el favor de su patrono. En esta iglesia no existe la misa, son ritos semi paganos que los indios sincretizaron y siguen practicando desde épocas remotas. Ojala ni los católicos ni los evangelicos destruyan esa manera de culto Los festivales que pueden apreciar en Chamula son los de Carnaval (febrero-marzo) donde danzan por una semana completa y que además coincide con los días aciagos del calendario Maya; el de San Sebastian (mitad de junio) y la semana santa. No hay hoteles, sin embargo, es una ventaja estar tan cerca de San Cristobal, van y regresan en un rato. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 63 of 159 Mexico 2004 San Cristobal de Las Casas > Palenque Dag Afstand 183.4 km Reisweg Summary: 183,4 kilometers (3 hours, 9 minutes) Time Km Instruction For 9:00 0,0 Depart San Cristóbal de las Casas on M-190 (East) 32,7 km 9:25 32,7 At Teopisca, turn LEFT (North-East) onto M-199 63,8 km 10:33 96,5 At Ocosingo, stay on M-199 (East) 83,0 km 12:02 179,5 Bear RIGHT (North-West) onto Local road(s) 3,9 km 12:09 183,4 Arrive Palenque SUMMARY Driving distance: 183,4 kilometers Total travel time: 3 hours, 9 minutes Driving time: 3 hours, 9 minutes Cost: 35,35 € C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 64 of 159 Mexico 2004 C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 65 of 159 Mexico 2004 C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 66 of 159 Mexico 2004 Leaving by road at an early hour you pass by the Tenejapa and San Juan Cancuc towns. To the south of these settlements you will find the Cillon, Bachajon and Temo villages until you get to Ocosingo, where we recommend visiting the cathedral and taste the cheese that the natives manufacture. In Ocosingo there is a detour to visit the archaeological zone of Tonina, one of the largest Mayan settlements in the area. Visit, it will be a good experience. Continue by road 199 towards the north, pass again by Temo and arrive to the famous Agua Azul Waterfall, where you can have lunch and refresh yourself in their blue waters. Further on, approximately 45 minutes later, you will find the Misol-Ha Waterfall, a beautiful recreation place where you can spend the night in comfortable cabins to depart the next day towards Palenque. The town of Palenque is found at only 15 minutes away from the archaeological site. It has an airport and its hotel offer is very wide. The five star Mision Hotel is located one side of the downtown area, and in La Cañada, which is beautiful, we find the Chablis, Maya Palenque and Tulija Hotels. This last one is located on the highway towards the airport. It is a four star hotel, clean and comfortable. Ocosingo The Ocosingo Valley, located midway between Palenque and San Cristóbal de las Casas, is one of the most beautiful in all of Mexico. At an altitude of around 1,000 meters (3,000 feet), it lies in the transition zone between the jungle below and the pine forests above, featuring lush, mixed broadleaf vegetation and a near perfect climate. Part of the Valley as seen from Toniná In Ocosingo there is a detour to visit the archaeological zone of Tonina, one of the largest Mayan settlements in the area. Visit, it will be a good experience. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 67 of 159 Mexico 2004 Tonina. Driving along the federal highway 199 in the State of Chiapas, Mexico, you reach this Mayan archaeological zone of Tonina with ruins that have not been explored yet. Base wiew Beautiful side view Panoramic view Cascada de Agua Azul . These beautiful waterfalls of Agua Azul are located 56 km from Palenque in the State of Chiapas, Mexico. They have deep blue waters. Nearby you can admire the 40 meters-high Misol-Ha cascade. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 68 of 159 Mexico 2004 C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 69 of 159 Mexico 2004 Palenque (http://www.jaguar-sun.com/siteplan.html) Set in the foothills of the Tumbalá mountains of Chiapas Mexico, Palenque is situated on a ledge overlooking the swampy plains that stretch northward all the way to the Gulf coast. Perhaps it is this positioning between two worlds, that gives Palenque a mystical charm that enchants scientist and tourist alike. The vista of the flat plains to the north, and the misty green of the lush mountain backdrop to the south, captures the imagination of modern visitors and most certainly inspired ancient artists and architects. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 70 of 159 Mexico 2004 This ancient Maya site is located at the western frontier of the lowland Maya region. While the name Palenque comes from a nearby village, it is possible that the village was named after the ancient city or something similar sounding - bahlam kin - jaguar sun - the place where the sun descends into the underworld, the realm of the jaguar. It was the flood plain of the Usumacinta to the north that most likely provided Palenque's inhabitants with the resources to construct their extraordinary city. Blessed with the highest average rainfall in Mexico, this fertile alluvial plain could have been successfully farmed with raised beds, and would have produced a harvest that not only could sustain a large workforce but would also have provided an abundance that could be traded along the great Usumacinta. It seems that the gods were as enchanted with Palenque as today's visitors. Architecture The architecture of Palenque was truly inventive. They reduced the massive weight of the traditional corbel arch by reducing its span with a dividing wall and the use of tribolated hollows that minimized the stress on load bearing walls. This allowed the Palenque builders to construct buildings with multiple piers and doorways on the front to let air and light into the interior. Mansard roofs decorated with stucco carvings and horizontal moldings gave the Palenque structures a pleasing linear appearance. The most notable structures of Palenque are the Palace (A) and the Temple of Inscriptions (B) both begun during the reign of Hanab Pacal and added to by his sons, Chan Bahlum and Kan Xul. Also built during Pacal's lifetime was the temple now called the "Temple of the Count" after the artist/adventurer, Count de Waldek who camped out in the temple in 1831 while creating fanciful illustrations of the site. A grouping of temples southeast of the Palace are known as The Cross Group. (C, D, E) Off to the west of the main plaza is the first temple built by Pacal, known as the Temple Olvidado (H). Here one can see the first attempts at many of the architectural features seen in subsequent construction: the tribolated vaults and the double room interior with a thin supporting wall. Other structures at Palenque include Temple XIII adjacent to the Temple of the Inscriptions. In 1994 a secret door was discovered that led to the interior of the pyramid and an underground temple with three rooms. In the middle room was a solid stone coffin with the remains of a woman who archaeologists have called the "Red Queen" because she was covered in cinnabar. There are no inscriptions to identify this apparently royal person. In June 1997 DNA tests were performed on the skeleton of Pacal to determine his relationship with this unknown woman. Results have yet to be published. Temple XII Also on the same mound is Temple XII, the first structure visitors see as they enter the site. It is also known as the temple of the Skull and the Temple of the Dead Moon. During 1992-94 over 500 objects were excavated from this Temple. Temple XIV is alongside the Temple of the Sun. The temple is in poor condition but a relief similar to the others in the cross group is on the rear wall. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 71 of 159 Mexico 2004 The Northern Group The Northern Group consists of four temples, aligned on an artificially leveled terrace. Most notable is the small structure with a pagoda-type roof which inspired some early explorers to connect the site with the Orient. The Ball Court is just north of the Palace and remains unexcavated. There is a natural pool just below a waterfall on the Otulum river which is known as the Queen's Bath and it is still used as a bathing spot. On the southern edge of the central plaza of Palenque, set against a steep limestone hill, the Temple of the Inscriptions held a remarkable secret for centuries. In 1948, Alberto Ruz investigated four curious stone plugs in the floor of the temple and discovered a secret passage filled with rubble. It took four long seasons to remove the rubble from the steep and slippery stairway that came to a landing then changed directions and continued on for 80 feet below the temple floor and 5 feet beneath the level of the central plaza. Behind a triangular slab door, Ruz made a discovery that would change the world's view of Maya pyramids -- an amazing stone chamber that housed an elaborately carved sarcophagus and the remains of a royal person along with a multitude of jade and other artifacts. It was not until epigraphers learned to decipher the glyphs on the sarcophagus and the inscriptions in the temple above that these remains could be identified as Hanab Pacal. It was Pacal himself who had this magnificent pyramid built and his heir, Chan Bahlum who completed it. The temple rises 75 feet high and the roofcomb would have added an additional 40 feet. This must have been an impressive sight from the northern plains, visible from miles away. There are eight stepped terraces to the base of the temple, each banded with a molding that lends a horizontal line to the structure. A narrow stairway leads up to the temple. The front of the temple is composed of five doorways separated by 5 piers. Chan Bahlum used these surfaces for stucco illustrations of his divine legacy. Each bas-relief carving depicts an adult presenting the young heir, who is shown with both human characteristics (with six fingers and toes that also appear elsewhere on adult portraits of Chan Bahlum) and divine attributes - such as the snake-like appendage in lieu of one leg and foot. Inside the temple, two large vaulted chambers house three C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 72 of 159 Mexico 2004 glyphic panels which are the second longest known inscription by the ancient Maya. Here is recounted the dynastic history of Pacal's ancestors. A curious feature to this structure is a duct that runs from the tomb, up the sides of the interior stairs to the temple floor. Many theories have been proposed as to the purpose of this duct, such as being a channel for Pacal's spirit to communicate with his descendants during bloodletting rituals on the temple above. Based on the observation that during the winter solstice the sun appears to set into the temple, following the path of the interior staircase, I suggest that this duct provided a path for the setting sun to take directly to Pacal's remains. View of Palace from Temple of the Inscriptions - Courtyard Chan Bahlum, Pacal's eldest son and successor, continued his father's aggressive building program. The three temples known as the "Cross Group", located in the hillock just south of the main plaza, are among the most elegant of all Maya architecture. All three temples have a large central opening flanked on each side by two stucco decorated piers and a narrow portal. The interiors are divided into front and back rooms, much like the traditional Maya home. In the back room is a sanctuary that houses a three part panel. In each temple the panel has a similar theme, depicting what is now believed to be Chan Bahlum as a boy on one side and as a man on the other. The central icon is different in each temple but the glyphs tell the same story - how Chan Bahlum is rightful heir and ruler of Palenque. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 73 of 159 Mexico 2004 Temple of the Sun In the Temple of the Sun the central motif depicts God III as a sun shield. The Panel from the Temple of Cross has been removed to the Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City and depicts the sacred cieba tree. The Temple of the Foliated Cross has lost its entire front wall, permitting a clear view of the tribolated vault and corbel arch. The rear panel features a stylized maize plant. Temple of the Cross Temple of the Foliated Cross C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 74 of 159 Mexico 2004 The Western Section Above is the western section of Palenque. Visitors don't usually see this section and it remains mostly unrestored. Of note is "H" which is the Temple Olvidado, Pacal's first construction built sevveral years after his mother's death. The Eastern Section Here is a plan of the eastern half of Palenque, the area most visitors see is the large section in white on either side of the Otolum River.The green wavy lines on the bottom are hills and the green wavy lines across the upper section are an escarpment leading down to the northern plains. A. Palace B. Temple of the Inscriptions C. Temple of the Cross D. Temple of the Sun E. Temple of the Foliated Cross F. Temple of the Count G. Northern Group J. Temple of the Jaguar K. Ball Court C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 75 of 159 Mexico 2004 The Temple of the Inscriptions is famed as Pacal's Tomb. One of the most elaborate burials in a Mayan pyramid is buried deep inside this monument. This photo shows the entire building topped mound called the "Palace" by modern archaeologists. This wide-angle view is from atop the Temple of the Inscriptions. The Temple of the Inscriptions photo above was taken from the Palace's tower. A view of the Palace and the Temple of the Inscriptions from the Temple of the Foliated Cross, one of three pyramids facing the same plaza, called the Group of the Cross. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Close-up of four glyphs on a stela at Palenque ruins, in the Temples of the Cross Group. Rooms atop the pyramids at Palenque house stelae with carvings, suggesting that the information recorded was of great significance to the ancient Maya of Palenque. A telescopic view of the Palace tower from the same perspective. The platform mound below these buildings looks solid, but actually there are chambers and corridors running below the structures. Another view from the Temple of the Sun with the Temple of the Cross in the foreground and the Palace in the background. Page 76 of 159 Mexico 2004 The Temple of the Sun viewed from the Temple of the Foliated Cross. More ruins lie in the jungle behind this monument. One of the attractions of the Palenque site is the incredible foliage in the surrounding jungle. A telescopic view of the Temple of the Sun from the Palace tower, with draping jungle vines in the background. A group of stelae adorn two sides of an internal stairway in the Palace. This figure seems to be looking skyward. The stone decorations also include hieroglyphs on a stairway. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Most of the surfaces of the palace were elaborated in full relief, painted stucco sculptures. This head is a unique image at the site. Unlike most of the personages displayed in the art this figure is much larger than life-sized. Page 77 of 159 Mexico 2004 Palenque > Campeche Dag Afstand 383 km Reisweg Summary: 383,4 kilometers (5 hours, 4 minutes) Time 9:00 9:07 9:37 Km 0,0 3,9 31,6 Instruction Depart Palenque on Local road(s) (South-East) Turn RIGHT (South-West) onto M-199 Turn RIGHT (East) onto M-186 10:10 10:18 10:33 10:47 75,0 86,0 106,0 124,4 Entering Tabasco Entering Campeche Entering Tabasco Entering Campeche 13:55 13:56 13:57 14:04 373,1 373,3 373,5 383,4 Turn LEFT (North) onto Local road(s) At Lerma, return South on Local road(s) Turn LEFT (East) onto M-180 Arrive Campeche 12:08 12:08 12:09 12:09 13:14 13:17 232,0 232,1 232,1 232,2 318,6 321,3 For 3,9 km 27,7 km 200,4 km Turn RIGHT (South) onto Local road(s) At Escárcega, return North on Local road(s) Turn LEFT (West) onto M-186 At Escárcega, bear RIGHT (North) onto M-261 At Champotón, bear RIGHT (North-East) onto M-180 [M-261] At Champotón, stay on M-180 [M-261] (North-East) SUMMARY Driving distance: 383,4 kilometers Total travel time: 5 hours, 4 minutes Driving time: 5 hours, 4 minutes Cost: 73,92 € C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 78 of 159 80 m 80 m 90 m 86,3 km 2,7 km 51,8 km 0,2 km 0,2 km 10,0 km Mexico 2004 C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 79 of 159 Mexico 2004 TABASCO C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 80 of 159 Mexico 2004 Campeche Campeche State is located on the southwest part of the Yucatan peninsula where the coastline with the Gulf of Mexico curves from a north-south direction to east-west. It lies between 17º 38' 44'' and 20º 47' 08'' west longitude in Mexico. The State of Campeche is bounded on the north and northeast by the State of Yucatan, on the west by the State of Quintana Roo, on the south by Guatemala, on the southwest by the State of Tabasco, and on the west and northwest by the Gulf of Mexico. Campeche State has an area of 56,114 sq. km (21,665 sq. mi.) including 288 islands and a population of approximately 690,689 inhabitants. The State of Campeche has two kinds of climate: the humid warm and the sub-humid warm. The subhumid warm climate has periods of rain in the summer and beginning of fall over most of territory. In the dry season or times of drought, it is characterized by the convergence of warm winds from the east and the southwest. The humid warm climate is prevalent in the southwest part of the state, by the Tabasco border C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 81 of 159 Mexico 2004 Chicanna "House of the Mouth of the Serpent" The Chicanna archaeological site is situated 44 km from Escarcega in the State of Campeche by the Federal Highway 186 in Mexico. Chicanna means "House of the Mouth of the Serpent" in the Mayan language. One of the most important attractions in Chicanna is a Mayan building reconstructed on a platform characteristics are of the Rio Bec Style. The style of the Chenes shows baroque characteristics in the facade of the buildings. The entrances of these resemble the mouth of a monster, the principal gate represents a great mouth of the Chac God with large canine teeth which project over the lintel. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 82 of 159 Mexico 2004 Champoton Champoton is situated 65 km from Campeche City in the State of Campeche by the Federal Highway 180 in Mexico. In 1517, the spanish troops lead by Francisco Hernandez de Cordova reached the village of Ah-KimPech to replenish their water supply, after a 4 days storm they were able to disembark at Champoton where they were attached by the Mayan troops led by Moch Couoh. The Mayan victory over the Spaniards became a fact, and ever since the battleground in Champoton where this took place its called the "bay of the bad fight". Champoton's actual economy is fishing and also the logging and lumber industry, the extraction of gum and cultivation of coconut, sugar cane, avocado, corn and bean. In Champoton you can visit the Caves of Monte Bravo, located 50 km south of the City by federal highway 261, where you can admire rocks forming interesting figures. In Champoton and its surroundings you will be able to find a lot of seafood restaurants called "coctelerias". These restaurants are usually located by the beach, so it gives you the chance to enjoy the sea breeze and sun while enjoying a delicious fresh fish cocktail or any seafood. Lerma Lerma is situated 8 km to the southeast of Campeche City in the State of Campeche by the Federal Highway 180 in Mexico. In Lerma you can visit the Nautic Club which organizes the Copa Anual de Carreras de Lanchas AhKimpech on the Coast of Campeche. Another interesting place in Lerma is the Fort of San Luis, which served to repel the landing of pirates in this area and nowadays is considered a national monument. One kilometer from Lerma you can visit Playa Bonita, a beach with fine sand and gentle waves. On January 6th, the Fiesta del Gallo y del Cochino is celebrated in this town. (Feast of the Cock and the Pig) C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 83 of 159 Mexico 2004 Campeche "Place of snakes and jiggers" Campeche City is the capital of the State of Campeche. It is located 196 km southeast of Merida in the State of Yucatan by the federal highway 180, and 471 km northeast of Villahermosa in the State of Tabasco by the federal highways 186, 261 and 180 in Mexico. The name of Campeche comes from the Mayan world "Ah-Kim-Pech", which means "The sir sun jigger", but since its pronunciation was difficult for the Spanish, they called it "Kna Pech", which means "Place of snakes and jiggers". Campeche, founded around the third century of our era, was the principal town of the Mayan province . By 1517, expeditionaries lead by Francisco Hernandez de Cordova reached the village of Ah-Kim-Pech to replenish their water supply, after a 4 days storm they were able to disembark at Champoton where they were attached by the Mayan troops led by Moch Couoh. The Mayan victory over the Spaniards became a fact, and ever since the place where the battle took place its called the "bay of the bad fight". Later, in 1531, Commander Francisco de Montejo founded Salamanca de Campeche, but failed to enter in the land of Mayas. In 1540, Montejo's son arrived to Champoton and conquered Kim Pech and Acanul. In 1541 Francisco Montejo founded the "Villa de San Francisco de Campeche", and won later Tenabo, Hecelchakan and Calkini. For the ones who would like to been born in the times when pirates conquered places and struggled many fights, its definitely a good idea to visit the City of Campeche. Because the constant tension of wars, conflicts, alliances between England, France and Holland with Spain and Portugal the people from Campeche were forced to fortify their city by building forts and walls from 1685 to 1704, thus preventing them from taking advantage of their economic development. Campeches's history has divided the City in three zones: The Center, formed by the old walled city which was inhabited by the Spaniards during the Colony San Francisco, located to the north of the wall, where the Mayan population was concentrated; and San Roman to the south, where the Mexican natives established themselves with the mulattos brought from the Islands of the Caribbean, mainly from Cuba Nowadays the bastions and remains of the wall are historical monuments, museums, gardens and other cultural attractions such as: The Ancient House of the Carvajal family with Arabic arcs and flight of steps made or marble. Currently its been converted into a crafts store and government offices. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 84 of 159 Mexico 2004 The Baluarte of Nuestra Señora de la Soledad. Built in 1690, here you can visit the Stelae museum named Dr Roman Pina Chan, with an exhibition of 22 Mayan Sculptures The Cathedral of the Conception The Main Square, where some examples of Colonial architecture can be observed The Church of San Francisco, built in the XVI century. The San Francisco de Paulo Toro Park, where an exhibition of handicrafts from the country is presented in December The Regional Museum which is known as the Casa del Teniente del Rey (House of the Lieutenant of the King) with a collection of European weapons from the XII to XIX centuries The Historical Hall of the Fortifications which is based on historical explanations, reconstructions of fortifications of the old walled city with photo mountings in color and scale models. "Puerta del Mar" (Sea Gate) located downtown, its one of the four gates of the City, it was used to receive and dismiss travelers and their products. "Puerta de Tierra" (Land Gate), built in 1732. Its considered as the main symbol of the City. Don't miss the light and sound show on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday at 8 PM. The handicrafts are made of: tortoiseshell palm of jipi wood shells clay and porcelains ceramic embroidered clothes gold and silver jewelry Campeche is famous because of its excellent gastronomy such as the bread of dogfish, and the Nac-cum made with red snapper. Actually the City of Campeche offers visitors numerous things to do and has something adequate for everyone. Campeche its ideal as a base to visit its surroundings as archaeological sites and beaches. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 85 of 159 Mexico 2004 Edzna "House of the Grimaces" The archaeological zone of Edzna is located 61 km southeast from Campeche City in the State of Campeche by the Federal Highway 180 in Mexico. Edzna is a Mayan name which means House of the Grimaces. The city was founded around 600 to 300 BC as a small agricultural community. Edzna reached its most important era as a grand regional capital between 600 and 900 AD. Edzna is one of the most interesting Mayan cities due to the technological advances developed there such as: An advanced system of hydraulic works A magnificent drainage system The rainwater flowed to artificial deposits called Chultunes The ruins cover an area of three kilometers east to west and 2 kilometers south to north. In Edzna there are two large clusters of structures: the Group of the Ceremonial Center and the group of La Vieja. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 86 of 159 Mexico 2004 The ceremonial center of Edzna has a central square surrounded by several structures such as: The Acropolis on the eastern side The Large House or Nohol Na on the west The platform of the Knives on the north Temples on the south C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 87 of 159 Mexico 2004 Campeche > Uxmal Dag Afstand 213 km Reisweg Summary: 213,1 kilometers (3 hours, 33 minutes) Time Km Instruction For 9:00 0,0 Depart Campeche on M-180 (East) 125,3 km 10:19 105,4 Entering Yucatán 10:33 125,3 Bear RIGHT (East) onto Local road(s) 70 m 10:34 125,4 At Maxcanú, return West on Local road(s) 70 m 10:34 125,5 Bear RIGHT (West) onto M-180 1,7 km 10:36 127,2 At Maxcanú, continue (East) on M-184 31,2 km 11:10 158,4 Bear LEFT (East) onto Local road(s) 1,2 km 11:12 159,6 At Muna, turn RIGHT (South) onto M-261 40 m 11:12 159,6 At Muna, stay on M-261 (South) 14,6 km 11:27 174,3 At Uxmal, stay on M-261 (South) 4,6 km 11:32 178,9 Turn LEFT (East) onto Local road(s) 14,8 km 12:00 193,7 At Kabah, return West on Local road(s) 14,8 km 12:28 208,5 Turn RIGHT (North) onto M-261 4,6 km 12:33 213,1 Arrive Uxmal SUMMARY Driving distance: 213,1 kilometers Total travel time: 3 hours, 33 minutes Driving time: 3 hours, 33 minutes Cost: 41,09 € C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 88 of 159 Mexico 2004 C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 89 of 159 Mexico 2004 Kabah C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 90 of 159 Mexico 2004 Kabah is situated 140 km from Merida in the State of Yucatan by the highway 261 in Mexico. Its just 5 km from Sayil. Kabah, near glorious Uxmal, to which was connected by a stone causeway or "sac-be", competes with its larger city in the majesty and beauty of its palace facades. Its a monumental example of the Puuc style architecture in which each stone element is part of a total, linking men with its universe. Recent investigations indicate the zone was inhabited in 250 B.C. and reached its splendor in the 8th and 9th centuries of our era. Kabah archaeological site has two groups of buildings, the Codz Pop and the Palacio, characterized for its extraordinary constructions such as: The slender stone Arch building style characteristic of the region and a distinguishing feature of this site. Is thought to be the center of the city and the entrance to the "sac-be" to Uxmal The Codz Pop which means rolled carpet and which has ten chambers forty-six meters long, communicated by only one door and which facade is ornamented with 250 masks of the rain god Chaac C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc The House of the Witch The Temple of the Columns Mask of Chac, the Rain God, Page 91 of 159 Mexico 2004 Uxmal The so-called Nunnery at Uxmal is an irregular quadrangle with buildings on each side. Each building has a distinct pattern to its facade. The same two buildings in this view are seen to the right, in the next frame. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc The unique Pyramid of the Magician is to the right of this perspective and overlooks the Nunnery Quadrangle. The five detailed views of facades that follow below are of the building on the right. All are of the facade facing the Quadrangle. Page 92 of 159 Mexico 2004 The above pattern with eight double-headed The corners of the upper facade feature three bars is repeated several times along the stacked masks. facade. In this close-up the red color between the crisscross pattern is visible. Traces of paint reveal that the complex facades were intricately painted in prehistoric times. The detail above is also seen above the doorway in the view below. This center doorway faces the quadrangle. This is one of the best restored/preserved areas of the ruins. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc The cut and sculptured limestone veneer blocks are attached to a rock rubble and cement core. Detail of the corner masks reveals a composition of glyphs, including the symbol for the planet Venus. Page 93 of 159 Mexico 2004 The Palace of the Governors is a large, long building on an elevated platform mound. The building is aligned to Nophat, a mound on the southeast horizon at the southeasterly maximun rise position for Venus. The Palace of the Governors has five masks stacked on its eight corners, numbers that corresspond to 5 Venus synodic cycles in 8 years. Uxmal is a majestic archaeological site located 23km from Kabah by the federal highway 261 in the State of Yucatan, Mexico. No doubt, Uxmal is considered as the most splendid archaeological site from the Pre Hispanic era on the American Continent because of the proportions of its majestic constructions decorated with delicate embossment, which are carved with elegance and precision, astounding both, scientific community and visitors, since the Mayan builders had neither metal tools nor detectable means of transportation. Its foundation date is still undetermined, but archaeologists rough estimates indicate that it was between the fifth and sixth centuries AD. Its cultural development, considered classic, demonstrates a certain similarity to that of Chichen Itza but shows none of the latter's Toltec influence. The indigenous chronicles written after the Spanish Conquest name Ahcuitok Tutul Xiu as Uxmal's founding leader. Please bear in mind that most place names were assigned to the various structures by the Spaniards. The name Uxmal was provided by the Mayans in their decadent period. Uxmal is divided in three sections, which are: CENTRAL ZONE The Magician's Pyramid, located at the entrance C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 94 of 159 Mexico 2004 to the site. This colossus stone is the result of five superimposed stages of building, crowned by a temple at the summit, from which you can contemplate the full grandeur of Uxmal The Nun's Quadrangle, so called since the Conquest for its similarity to a convent; comprised of four large structures resting on an artificial platform and surrounding a grand central square, 75mts long by 45mts wide. Decorated with god masks, jaguars, owls and human figures. This is the stage in which takes place the light and sound show The Ballgame Court The Cemetery Group The Temple of the Monuments SOUTH ZONE The Quadrangle of the Doves The Great Pyramid The Governor's Palace. Built on a stepped platform 97.5mts long by 8mts wide and 8mts high; supposedly, the residence of the most important members of the ruling class. The visual effect of movement produced by the rain-god masks jutting out from the friezes is extraordinary, as well as the filigree formed by over twenty thousand mosaics on the facade is remarkable. The House of the Turtles C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 95 of 159 Mexico 2004 The Old Lady's House The Temple of the Phalli (requires guide) The Chimez House (requires guide) Mask of Chac, the Rain God, NORTH ZONE Consisting on several, still unnamed mounds. Visitors require guide. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 96 of 159 Mexico 2004 SCHEDULE Archaeological zone: From 8 to 17 hrs. Museum: From 8 to 17 hrs. Sayil "The Place of the Ants" Sayil archaeological site is located only 5 km from Xlapak in the State of Yucatan in Mexico. Sayil dates from 800-1000 A.C. and its outstanding because of the existence of a construction called El Palacio (The Palace) with three stepped positions. During its most splendid period, this site had 90 bedrooms for some 350 people. From the top level of the Palace, you can see the church at Santa Elena and across the way a tine ruin on the side of a mountain, which is called "The nine masks". Xlapak Xlapak is another interesting archaeological site situated just 4 km from Labna by the same highway in the State of Yucatan, Mexico. In Xlapac there are 14 mounds with 3 pyramids in restoration process. Its one of the less restored sites in the zone, allowing the visitors to see how this sites are found. Also you may find many carved stones laying around the ground. Xlapak main attractions are: The ruins of a building called El Palacio (The Palace) Some masks of the God Chaac C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 97 of 159 Mexico 2004 Labna "Old or abandoned house" Labna archaeological site is located 122 km from Merida by the state highway 31 in the State of Yucatan, Mexico. Labna, once a city of some 1,500 to 2,800 people, inhabited between 750 to 1,000 AD. This site has been the focus of recent investigation and actually four of its buildings have been restored. Labna is outstanding because of an elegant arch shaped construction which marked the limit where the priests, soldiers and nobles lived. Its facade is decorated with small columns, depictions of palm houses and stylized serpents. Some other interesting constructions in Labna are El Mirador and the Palace, decorated with figures honoring the Chaac God and its 70 "cheltunes" (water cisterns) that are not visible. Ticul "The Pearl of the South" Ticul is located 100 km south of Merida in the Puuc region, 17 km from the caves of Loltun via federal highway 184 in the State of Yucatan, Mexico. Ticul is one of the most important towns of the State of Yucatan. Among Ticul main attractions are: The Temple of San Antonio, built in the XVII century The Chapel of La Mejorada The Chapel of San Miguel Nearby is found the Cenote of Kukuyache The main craft production is the red clay planter pots that you can find everywhere in the area; Ticul is also known for the fine leather shoes designed and made by the local people. Regarding the regional cuisine, we can taste the delicious Poc-chuc or roasted pork. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 98 of 159 Mexico 2004 Uxmal > Chichen Itza Dag Afstand 196 km Reisweg Summary: 196,9 kilometers (2 hours, 43 minutes) Time Km Instruction For 9:00 0,0 Depart Uxmal 9:00 0,0 At Uxmal, turn RIGHT (North) onto M-261 58,4 km 10:03 58,4 Bear RIGHT (North) onto M-180 1,1 km 10:04 59,5 At Umán, turn LEFT (West) onto Local road(s) 40 m 10:04 59,5 Turn RIGHT (North) onto Local road(s) 70 m 10:04 59,6 At Umán, return South on Local road(s) 70 m 10:05 59,6 Turn LEFT (East) onto Local road(s) 30 m 10:06 59,7 At Umán, bear LEFT (North-East) onto M-180 16,9 km 10:16 76,6 At Mérida, stay on M-180 (South-East) 118,2 km 11:39 194,8 Turn RIGHT (South-West) onto Local road(s) 2,2 km 11:43 196,9 Arrive Chichén Itzá SUMMARY Driving distance: 196,9 kilometers Total travel time: 2 hours, 43 minutes Driving time: 2 hours, 43 minutes Cost: 37,97 € Alternatieve weg (p288 Guide du Routard) Uxmal – Labnà – Oxkutzcab – Sotota (Lunch te « Los Compadres ») , Pitsé, Chichén Itzá 150 km asfaltweg of 3 uur. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 99 of 159 Mexico 2004 C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 100 of 159 Mexico 2004 C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 101 of 159 Mexico 2004 Merida C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 102 of 159 Mexico 2004 C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 103 of 159 Mexico 2004 Founded in 1542 by the Spaniard Francisco de Montejo over the ruins of the Mayan city T'ho and receiving its name to evoke the conquerors the city of Merida in Spain. The Cathedral of San Ildefonso was founded with the huge stones dismantled from the pyramids. Merida is known as the White City, nowadays one of the most tranquil and safest cities in Mexico. Her remote Mayan roots, superb colonial monuments and the splendor of her turn to the XIX century architecture, has made Merida a captivating mixture of cultural influences. Among Merida main attractions are: C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 104 of 159 Mexico 2004 La Casa de Montejo (Montejo's House). Located south of the main Plaza, its the most important non government building, distinguished because of its plateresque style. Cathedral. The elder in the American continent (1556-1599); with its beautiful mozarabic-style towers and the great 7-meter high image of a Christ Canton Palace. At present time Museum of Anthropology and History, built in the early XX century with marble of different tones where you can see an outstanding collection of pieces of the Mayan culture C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 105 of 159 Mexico 2004 Monumento a la Patria (Monument to the Fatherland). Where the sculptor Romulo Rosso shaped the history of Mexico The Ancient Casa Real, actually the Government Palace, houses 27 murals illustrating historical representations from the Pre-Hispanic and Colonial Eras. The El Centenario Zoo, where the city 200 is found The traditional Paseo Montejo, designed to emulate the Champs Elysees, will delight with its three story mansions with their balconies, harmonious lines, vivid color and pointed tower. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 106 of 159 Mexico 2004 60th Street. A stroll down through this enchanting street reveals beautiful parks and buildings, among them the Hidalgo Park, the Autonomous University of Yucatan, the Church and Park of Santa Lucia and the Peon Contreras Theater. Jose Peon Contreras Theater, built in 1900, with its white marble stair, and its seats decorated in a Rococo-style The zone of the Markets where you can buy the typical huipiles, guayaberas, filipinas, henequen carpets. Here you can visit the outstanding markets Lucas de Galvez and the Portal de Granos. In downtown Merida you can enjoy popular shows from 9 o'clock pm during the week. There is also a great variety of good restaurants where you can enjoy the regional cuisine and excellent plates such as cochinita pibil and deer meat. Meriden people are characterized by their hospitality and pride of their strong traditions and cultural roots. Merida has turned into a splendid city for business and recreation under a peaceful and secure climate, making foreigners feel at home. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 107 of 159 Mexico 2004 Chizen Itza C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 108 of 159 Mexico 2004 Chichen - Itza, world famous archaeological zone, is located 120 km from Merida via federal highway 180 in the State of Yucatan Mexico. The name Chichen - Itza is derived from the Mayan language: "Chi" - mouth, "Chen" - well and "Itza" the tribe that inhabited the area. Chichen - Itza is the most visited archaeological site in the peninsula of Yucatan, due to its extraordinary architecture beauty and its geographical location. It was founded in the year 514 of our era by the priest LAKIN CHAN who was also called Itzamna. This is why their people were called since the foundation, chanes or itzaes. When the Spaniards arrived to Chichen - Itza, it had been abandoned as a consequence of the civil war fought with Mayapan. In between 1196 and 1441 the final collapse of this culture took place in the north of the peninsula. The conquerors found the buildings partially in ruins and their names and real use were unknown; this is why the present names are suppositions. The architectural characteristics of Chichen Itza and that have a direct relationship with. The Mayan Toltec style are: "El juego de la Pelota", "El Castillo", "El Grupo de las Mil Columnas", "El tzompantli", El Edificio de las Aguilas", "El templo de los Guerrerros", and "El Mercado". All of these buildings have the same decoration motives found in Tula. The most frequent representations are warriors and Quetzalcoatl. The cult of the Feathered serpent, Quetzalcoatl in Tula and Kukulkan in Mayan, was very important. The largest Ball Game in Mesoamerica is found in Chichen Itza. It is 168 meters in length and 70 meters in width, In the place, as well as in others in Mesoamerica, the Ball Game was an entertainment, but it also had a ritual side in which the losers were sacrificed. The pyramid known as known as "El Castillo" is surely the place where the ceremony of the descent of Kukulkan was held. The pyramid has special astronomical layout so that a game of light and shadow is formed. On March 21st the body of the serpent metaphorically descends from the temple on top of the pyramid and arrives at the heads at the foot of the staircase. Excavations in the interior show that there is a smaller "Castillo" in its interior. In the "Templo de los Guerreros" there is a temple on the top part where the entrance columns are typically Toltec. Another one of the buildings that has a Toltec seal without is the "Muro de los Craneos". These buildings were destined to be the mausoleums of the tying up the years. Every 52 years the ancient Mayans and other cultures would tie up a sheaf of years to end a cycle. Another important buildings is "El Caracol", an astronomical observatory. The archaeological site is divided into 3 areas: the Northern group (distinctly Toltec), the Central group (early period) and the Southern area known as the Old Chichen (located far away from the other buildings and its visit requires a guide). C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 109 of 159 Mexico 2004 Northern Group: The Pyramid of Kukulcan (also known as The Castle) where both theology and astronomy, combine to produce a unique spectacle twice a year, the Spring Equinox and the Autumn Solstice, days when the shadows projected over the architectonic elements of the building resemble a serpent descending to the ground. Inside the pyramid are located the famous Chac Mool sculpture and the Jaguar Throne. The Marketplace The Steam Bath Temple of the Warriors C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 110 of 159 Mexico 2004 Platform of Venus or of the Dance Sacred Well or the Well of the Sacrifices Tzompantli, that displays figures of skulls in relief Platform of Eagles and Jaguars The Ball Court and the Temple of the Jaguars Central Group: The The The The Ossuary Red House or Chichan Chob House of the Deer Caracol or Observatory C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 111 of 159 Mexico 2004 The Nunnery The Church The Akab Dzib Temple of the Carved Panels The Well of Xtoloc The Temple of the Bearded Man The three areas can be seen comfortably in one day. Also you should enjoy the wonderful Light and Sound Show that is held every evening. You can travel to Chichen - Itza from Merida by daily travel agency tours, rental car or public bus lines that have trips approximately every hour. You can do the trip on one day or preferably stay overnight. There are hotels at Chichen - Itza, Piste (village 1 mile beyond the ruins) and Valladolid (25 miles beyond the ruins). SCHEDULE Archaeological zone: From 8 to 17 hrs. Museum: From 8 to 17 hrs. Light & Sound Show in Spanish*: Winter Hour: 19 hrs. Summer Hour: 20 hrs View of the Caracol in the foreground, the Castillo dominating the left background and the Temple of the Column on the far right. This view was taken from atop one of the Nunnery buildings. The interior of this building at the northern end of the Ballcourt is sculpted in bas relief. The red paint is still visible. This view is from the Temple of the Jaguars, the left picture in the next row. Note the very level horizon, a distinct aspect of Chichen Itza's location. Perched high above the Ballcourt this double serpent column doorway faces the Ballcourt. High walls with a projecting stone ring line the two long sides of the Ballcourt. This building is atop The Temple of the Columns is so named for the many columns in the foreground and to the right of the platform. The columns C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 112 of 159 Mexico 2004 the east side of the Ballcourt and faces away from the main plaza and the Castillo. probably supported a roof. In the main doorway two serpent columns supported a large wooden beam. A Chac Mool statue faces the main plaza and the Castillo pyramid from the centerline of the doorway atop the Temple of the Columns platform. A section of the main doorway beam remains in the socket atop the wall above the Chac Mool. Another Chac Mool statue has been found within the Castillo pyramid. The present version of the Castillo sits atop an earlier pyramid. This Chac Mool and the jaguar statue in the background are located on top of the previous pyramid. Excavators have created a tunnel up the original stairs and under the present stairs, seen in the next row. A jaguar mool close-up follows below. This giant serpent's head decorates the base of the Castillo stairway. A close-up view of the 'jaguar mool' inside the Castillo. Note the jade eyes. Perhaps these treasures are why the guards chased me out of the ruins at sunrise! A view of the author (in 1983) astride the Ballcourt's wall with the Castillo in the backbround. Another view of the Temple of the Columns with a rainbow, seemingly emanating from the chac masks on the building corner. The buildings in the Nunnery area display Puuc style architecture, in contrast to the Toltec influence in the Ballcourt and Castillo area. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 113 of 159 Mexico 2004 Balankanche "The Cave of Maya Treasure" Balankanche is located only 6 kilometers from Chichen Itza, via federal highway 180 in the State of Yucatan Mexico. Balankanche Cave should be visited for the beauty of its natural stone formations and for its archaeological importance as a ceremonial site for the Maya. A light and sound show that relates its history can be seen into the cave. The first man of modern times to see the treasure of Balankanche was a tour guide from Chichen Itza. In 1959, while exploring the cave, Gomez discovered a passageway leading deep into the caverns. It took him two hours to follow out the path that eventually brought him face to face with the treasures left by C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 114 of 159 Mexico 2004 the ancient Maya 800 years ago. Dr. E. Wyllys Andrews, leader of the National Geographic Society Expedition working nearby, was immediately summoned to inspect the discovery. Arriving into the cave, he was astonished when he saw with the beam of his headlamp hundreds of glittering stalactites surrounding a huge stalagmite (resembling a ceiba tree) which stretched from floor to ceiling in the center of the enormous vault. Carefully placed around the base of this unusual geological formation, said to be the "sacred tree inside the earth", were a great variety of ceremonial objects, offering to the rain god Tlaloc and left undisturbed through centuries of darkness. Years after its rediscovery, the cave of Balankanche was opened to the public, who can now admire the artifacts exhibited in the exact places in which they were found. Balankanche is opened to the public all year round, Monday to Sunday from 9 to 17 hrs. Guided tours and light sound shows are offered at the site museum, botanical gardens, snack bar, rest areas and parking are also available C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 115 of 159 Mexico 2004 Chizen Itza > Cancun Dag Afstand 210 km Reisweg Summary: 210,7 kilometers (2 hours, 46 minutes) Time Km Instruction For 9:00 0,0 Depart Chichén Itzá on Local road(s) (North-East) 2,2 km 9:04 2,2 Turn RIGHT (South-East) onto M-180 42,7 km 9:36 44,9 At Valladolid, stay on M-180 (East) 28,7 km 9:58 73,6 Turn RIGHT (South) onto Local road(s) 30 m 9:58 73,6 At Chemax, return North on Local road(s) 30 m 9:58 73,6 Turn RIGHT (East) onto M-180 39,1 km 10:28 112,8 Turn LEFT (North-West) onto Local road(s) 50 m 10:28 112,8 At X-Can, return South-East on Local road(s) 50 m 10:28 112,9 Bear LEFT (East) onto M-180 91,8 km 10:31 117,1 Entering Quintana Roo 11:38 204,6 Turn RIGHT (South) onto M-307 [Av Tulum] 4,0 km 11:42 208,6 Turn LEFT (East) onto Local road(s) 2,1 km 11:46 210,7 Arrive Cancún SUMMARY Driving distance: 210,7 kilometers Total travel time: 2 hours, 46 minutes Driving time: 2 hours, 46 minutes Cost: 40,62 € C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 116 of 159 Mexico 2004 QUINTANA ROO C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 117 of 159 Mexico 2004 The State of Quintana Roo is located in the eastern part of the Yucatan Peninsula at the southeastern tip of Mexico. It has a surface of 50,212 square kilometers and is surrounded by the Caribbean Sea in both north and east, bordering Belize to the south and Guatemala to the west with the State of Campeche and with the State of Yucatan. The name of Quintana Roo state, comes from Andrés Quintana Roo, a Mexican figure, who played an important role in the Independence movement and in the creation of the Republic. It was awarded the status of a Free Sovereign State preserving its ancient surface and borders, by the October 8, 1974 decree after having filled population and economic requirements. The local constitution was promulgated on January 12, 1975. Quintana Roo, is the youngest state of the Mexican Republic and is also the one where the most important tourist complex, considered one of the best in the world is located with a population of approximately 874,963 inhabitants. Quintana Roo is an encounter with nature. Its beaches, considered among the most beautiful ones in the world, are surrounded by the beautiful blue intensive to clear turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea. Having natural landscapes, history and culture it is a wonderful place for those who like hunting, fishing and aquatic sports. The climate in Quintana Roo, for most of its surface is a warm one with occasional showers. Cancun C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 118 of 159 Mexico 2004 Cancun is located 379 km north of Chetumal via federal highways 295 and 307 in the State of Quintana Roo, Mexico. The island of Cancun, is connected to mainland Mexico by two bridges. Characterized for its fantastic landscapes and splendid beaches with fine sand, Cancun is ideal for practising water sports. The crystal clear waters of Cancun let you admire the sea bottom to depths of more than 26 mts. Cancun is the most important tourist resort of the State of Quintana Roo and Mexico, and also has some of the most beautiful tropical beaches in the world. Cancun has a large variety of attractions such as: The Bojorquez and Nichupte Lagoons, where you can practice diving The Archaeological Museum and the archaeological site of El Rey Kin Inch and Ahuav-Bonil, which are found on the Golf Club grounds Cancun offers hotels of all categories, traditional & international restaurants, shops, night clubs and many other services for your entertainment. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 119 of 159 Mexico 2004 Hotels MEXICO CITY Hotel Lepanto Mexico City The Hotel Lepanto Is Located A Few Blocks From The Most Important Business, Shopping, Entertainment And Historical Sites. The Property Is Centrally Located And Offers Meeting Rooms And An On Site Restaurant/Bar. The Hotel Lepanto Is The Perfect Location For Travelers, Businessmen And Convention Groups. The Hotel Lepanto Is Located Downtown Approximately 12 Miles From Juarez International Airport. - Juarez Intl Airport - Taxi Available 24 Hours At Approx 10.00 Usd. From Juarez Intl - Take Viaducto Miguel Aleman West. Take Insurgentes Sur And Go North, Then Take Paseo De Reforma East Until Ave Juarez And Go South. Turn Left On Guerrero Street And Continue To The Property 120$ + tax; Our e-mail address is: informes@hotellepanto.com. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 120 of 159 Mexico 2004 Oaxaca Located 10 blocks from the historical center, Hotel Hacienda la Noria offers 81 rooms and suites with TV, ample space and unique decor, elegant gardens, and "Las Canastas" restaurant with the best of Oaxaca food. You can also spend time in our pleasant, pool-side bar, "El Portalito," sipping cocktails or soft drinks, and nibbling on typical Oaxacan appetizers. Facilities Restaurant-Bar Our pool-side patio bar "El Portalito" Room Service Pool and Kid's Pool Public Phones Baby Sitting Safety Deposit Boxes Medical Services Auto Rental Travel Agency Laundry Money Exchange Parking Special Events and Convention Hall Street Address: Hotel Hacienda La Noria Av. Eduardo Mata No. 1918 esq. La Costa Fracc. San José la Noria Oaxaca, Oax. C.P. 68120 México. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 121 of 159 Mexico 2004 Telephone: 0 11 52 (951) 514 7555, 514 7122 Fax: 0 11 52 (951) 516 5347 E-mail: hacienda@lanoria.com Website: www.lanoria.com C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 122 of 159 Mexico 2004 C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 123 of 159 Mexico 2004 Tehuantepec Hotel Calli Carretera Cristobal Colon KM 790 70760 Tehuantepec Phone : (011-52-) 971-5-0085 Fax : (011-52-) 971-5-0113 Email : callitour@hotmail.com Highway 190; go approximately 2KM East of town towards La Ventosa, on the North side of the highway. San Cristobal de las Casas BW Bonampak C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 124 of 159 Mexico 2004 Palenque Chan-Kah Resort Village Popularity index: #2 in Palenque out of 16 hotels Km. 3 Carretera a las Ruinas Palenque 29960 Mexico Welcome to Chan-Khan Resort Village, we gives all sort of comforts and amenities to our guests. ROOMS Satellite Television Telephone Air Conditioning Disabled Access General Amenities Parking Available Bar Restaurant Credit Cards Accepted Conference Facilities Pool General Information Check-in Time: 3:00 P.M. Check-out Time: 12:00 Noon. Dining Don Manuel Cambalache La Dolce Vita Splash Carlos n Charlies C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 125 of 159 Mexico 2004 CAMPECHE DEBLIZ HOTEL CAMPECHE Av. Las Palmas 55, off Av. Pedro Sainz de Baranda, near baseball stadium Hotel Facilities Amenities: Front Desk,Business Center,Concierge,Elevator,Free Parking,Bar,Banquet,Restaurant,Safe Deposit Box,Lounge,Coffee Shop,Handicap Facilities,Indoor Parking,Outdoor Parking,Parking,Jacuzzi,Sauna,Conference Facilities,Meeting Facilities,Secretarial Service,Hai Services: Post,Whirlpool,Pool,Barber,Laundry,Medical,Travel Desk,Barber Shop,Boutiques,Concierge Desk,Currency Exchange,In Room Telephone Service,Express Check'-In,Express Check'-Out,Front Desk'-24 Hours,Guest Laundromat,Luggage Storage,Wake up service Guest Rooms Room Type: Standard Room Facilities: AC,Cable TV,Direct Phone,Channel Music,Attbath,Shower,Bath Tub,Shower/Bath Tub,Minibar,Work Desk,Safe Deposit Box,Smoke alarms,Sprinklers,Double Bed,King Bed C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 126 of 159 Mexico 2004 Uxmal Mision Uxmal Mision Uxmal 3 stars, is located on a hill, surrounded by green areas with characteristic vegetation of the region, has a colonial style decoration; its structure is distributed on a horizontal building in horseshoe form with 4 levels. On those levels you will find the front desk and lobby areas, lobby bar, restaurant, tobacco and gifts store, room area, convention/hall rooms, and solarium with snack bar. 100 spacious rooms all with private bathrooms, air ocnditioining, cable TV, telephone, smoke alarm, minibar and balconies with a spectacular view of the gardens and ancient Uxmal temples. Located only 5 minutes away from one of the most famous Mayan sites, Uxmal, and only 50 km. away from Merida City. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 127 of 159 Mexico 2004 Chichen Itza Hotel Chichen-Itza, Chichen Itza Chichen- Itza Hotel, 3 stars. It provides guests with all the amenities and facilities expected from this class of hotel, is a comfortable oasis among an ancient culture, with parking lot, spacious rooms, a small pool and good service. 45 comfortable standard rooms, colonial style with 2 single beds, queen or king size, air conditioning, safety deposit box, shower/bathtub, telephone and a ceiling fan. Services 1 Restaurant (s) 2 Bar (s) 1 Pool (s) Wedding Facilities Located 2 minutes away from the world famous archaeological site of Chichen-Itza in the Village of Piste. Hotel Chichen-Itza is 12 minutes drive from Chichen Itza Airport and 2 hours and 30 minutes from the International Airport of Cancun. Restaurants & Bars Los Arcos Restaurant: Features regional and international cuisine, for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Open from 7:00 am to 11:00 pm Los Venados Bar: You can enjoy your favorite drink. Open from 10:00 am to 11:00 pm C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 128 of 159 Mexico 2004 CANCUN Flamingo Cancun Resort All-Inc Blvd Kukulcan, Hotel Zone Cancún, Quintana Roo, Mexico Directly on the Caribbean Sea and Kukulcan Boulevard in Canc n Hotel Zone, midpoint between downtown Canc n and the airport. Flamingo Plaza is located across the street featuring Pat O'Brien's Bar, Planet Hollywood and over 100 shops and boutiques. The Canc n Convention Center and Plaza Caracol are a 15 minute walk from the Flamingo Canc n. It is a low-rise hotel with 220 rooms and suites, some handicap accessible. Specials - we have listed important specials that could save you money, call us for details All-Inclusive! Includes room, meals, activities. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 129 of 159 Mexico 2004 C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 130 of 159 Mexico 2004 Tijdrepel (http://www.differentworld.com/index.html) Rise of the Olmecs in San Lorenzo Tenochtitlán and La Venta. Colossal stone heads and fine stone sculptures produced. Rome founded by Romulus and Remus (according to legend). Monte Albán founded on a mountain looking over three valleys. The mountain top was leveled to build the city. Rise of Teotihuacán as a major city with up to 50,000 inhabitants. Earliest recorded dates produced at Izapa First paved streets in Rome; 3rd Punic War, Carthage destroyed Third Servile war - revolt of slaves under Spartacus; First Triumvirate (three rulers) Pompeii, Caesar, Crassus Construction of the Pyramids of the Sun and Moon at Teotihuacán. Teotihuacán, Monte Albán and Tikal (Guatemala) flourish Arch of Constantine built to commemorate Constantine's great victory over Mazentius; Building of first St Peter's Sacking of Rome by Alaric the Goth; Rome pillaged by Vandals; Fall of Western Roman Empire Convention at Xochicalco; Uxmal and Kabah flourish; Establishment of Tula; El Tajin becomes dominant power in Gulf Coast Region C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Pantheon consecrated as a Christian Church Page 131 of 159 Mexico 2004 Fall of Teotihuacán; Cobá flourishing; Monte Albán abandoned and Mitla becomes more powerful. Construction of the major monuments in Palenque. Charlemagne, King of Franks, crowned Holy Roman Emperor The Toltec capital Tula is the largest and most important city in central Mexico; Revival of Chichén Itzá following arrival of Quetzalcóatl/Kukulkán King Otto the Great becomes first German Holy Roman Emperor Rome attacked by the Normans Cholula pyramid reaches maximum size (it is the largest known in the world). Fall of Tula Tulum flourishes League of Mayapan dominates the Yucatán. Rome an independent commune under Arnaldo di Brescia Founding of Tenochtitlán by the Aztecs. Mayapan overthrown by coalition of Uxmal and associated cities Aztecs dominate central and southern Mexico. Construction of new St Peter's begins Cortés arrives in Veracruz Conquest of Tenochtitlán by the Spanish Michaelangelo begins painting the Sistine Chapel ceiling; Rome sacked by army of Charles V of Spain Three centuries of Spanish rule follows. The native population is reduced from 25 million to less than 6 million, mostly as a result of European diseases. The church grows more powerful and owns nearly half the land in the country. Native Indians are reduced to a life of slavery. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 132 of 159 Mexico 2004 Spanish domination wanes as domestic problems take priority. 1808: Napoleon forced abdication of King of Spain and installed his brother Joseph Bonaparte as King of Spain 1810 (16th September): Miguel Hidalgo proclaims independence from Spain in Grito de Dolores. A rebellious uprising follows, but is quashed by royalists and Hidalgo is executed. 1821: Augustin Iturbide negotiates independence from the Spanish and proclaims himself Emperor Augustin I. His rule lasts for just one year, and begins a series of short lived presidencies which bring great instability to Mexico. 1836: Texas declares itself independent, Mexico refuses to accept the status. 1845: US annex Texas - leads to MexicoAmerican war; US troops take Mexico City; 1848: Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo Mexico loses Texas, New Mexico and Upper California 1840s: War of the Castes in the Yucatan virtually eliminates the Maya people. 1857: War of the Reform, liberals under Juárez take control over church-backed conservatives 1861: Juárez suspends payments on foreign debts for 2 years, provoking the threat of combined invasion by France, Spain and Britain. France alone attacks. 1862: French lose battle of Puebla to Mexicans; 1864: Maximilian of Habsburg, appointed Emperor Maximilian by Napoleon, arrives at Veracruz 1867: Maximilian is executed and Juárez re-elected 1872: Juarez dies 1877-1910: The Porfiriato, dictatorship under Porfirio Diaz, brings stability but little justice. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 133 of 159 Mexico 2004 1911-1926: The Mexican Revolution begins as a revolt against Diaz but results in civil war as rival revolutionary factions fight for power. 1936: Lázaro Cárdenas elected, forms PRI and begins major redistribution of land to peasants 1938: Lázaro Cárdenas nationalised previously foreign-owned oil companies, resulting in a boycott of Mexican oil by US and Europe World War II brings demand for Mexican oil and reduction in imported goods to Mexico, stimilating industrial output. 1968: Massacre in Tlateloco following student unrest, Olympic Games held in Mexico City 1985: Huge earthquake hits Mexico City 1988: Election of Carlos Salinas under whom NAFTA agreement is signed 1994: Zapatista Army of National Liberation take control of San Cristóbal de las Casas. Government forces quell the disturbances and an uneasy ceasefire is reached in the area. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 134 of 159 Mexico 2004 The Olmecs The Olmecs were the first of the ancient civilizations of Mexico, notable for their colossal stone sculptures and complex calendar system (later used by the Mayas). They originated in the present day state of Veracruz and flourished between around 1200 to 400 BC. The Olmecs built ceremonial cities, with constructions including pyramids and temples built from mud and earth. They were probably the first muralists and cave painters in Mexico, and also produced statues in jade. Typical Olmec art features jaguars, thick-lipped warriors and goatee bearded men. Often jaguar and human characteristics are combined in were-jaguar babies and children; the Olmecs believed themselves to be descendents of the jaguar and held the animal in high religious status. The largest Olmec momuments are the colossal stone heads, with thick lips and helmets. They have been found up to around 60 miles (100 km) from the source of the raw material and it is not known exactly how these 7 foot (2 meter) high sculptures were transported to the ceremonial sites where they were found. Major discoveries of Olmec artifacts have been found in La Venta and San Lorenzo Tenochtitlán. Some Olmec works, including five of the colossal heads, are on display in La Venta Park, an outdoor museum, having been relocated when the oil industry expansion threatened the original location. There is little to attract tourist to the archaeological sites, and for those on a short visit the best introduction to Olmec art is probably to be gained at the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 135 of 159 Mexico 2004 Monte Albán centuries before the birth of Christ, the Zapotecs leveled a mountain top to create their ceremonial city The location is spectacular History Monte Albán was founded around 700BC, when population growth in the area was sufficient to support a religious élite. It became the most important center in the area, and by 300AD had a population of about 50,000 - more than any European city at the time. Residential areas were built on terraces down the hillside, and all water supplies had to be carried up from the valleys. Many early structures were razed or built over, one of the earliest structures known today is the "Monumento de los Danzantes", featuring the first examples of writing found in the region. Intensive construction at the site continued until around 900AD, when the city began to lose political influence to other powers, such as Mitla. The Mixtecs began to dominate the Zapotecs, and Monte Albán, almost deserted by 700AD, became more of a religious site - the Mixtecs buried their leaders in elaborate tombs here. Later invaders were the Aztecs and then the Spanish, who gave the city its current name. The Site Most of the structures surround a vast plaza, orientated north-south. There are large platforms to the north and south; you'll enter at the north-east corner. Founded around 700BC, Monte Albán grew to a population of 50,000 by 300AD To your left you will see the ball-court. Zapotec ball-courts differ from those of the Maya in several ways; there are no stone rings and the court is shaped like a capital I. The sides of the court were sloping, but experts think that these walls were used in the game and were not for spectators. There is no evidence of human sacrifices related to the ball game in the Zapotec culture. However, the game seems to have involved moving the ball using elbows and hips similar to the method of play used by the Maya. The Northern platform was probably the major structure on the plaza, though much of it is in ruins now and it's difficult to imagine its original glory. There are several broad stairways offering great views of the valley. On the C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 136 of 159 Mexico 2004 west side are two almost identical structures, with steps up to a platform and a walled enclosure at the base. There are remains of a four-tiered pyramid that would have been crowned by a temple. The Monumento de los Danzantes is carved with naked human figures in strange positions Between these two buildings is the Monumento de los Danzantes (the Dancers). The sloping faces are carved with naked human figures in strange positions, originally thought to be dancers. Their real significance is unknown, but the most popular theory is that they depict some sort of medical textbook - maybe this was a kind of hospital. Various deformities can be made out, and one figure is clearly a woman in childbirth. Date glyphs near the carvings are from about 600BC. In the center of the plaza are two constructions, the largest (in three sections) was a temple system that included tunnels to other temples on the site - presumably so that the priest could make sudden and magical appearances. The second building is the only one not aligned with the cardinal points and is thought to have been used for astronomy, hence its name 'The Observatory'. In its construction, about 40 carved slabs from the Monumento de los Danzantes were used. There are depictions of rulers above glyphs representing place names, presumably a list of conquered towns. The southern platform houses the tallest structure, an unrestored pyramid. This is the best place to take photographs and view the site as a whole. Before you leave, visit the tombs just north of the main plaza, where the Mixtecs buried their rulers. Important collections of jewelry were found here, most notably in Tomb 7 whose contents are on display in the museum at Oaxaca. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 137 of 159 Mexico 2004 Teotihuacán in a place where men became gods colossal pyramids were painted red to glow under the Mexican sun View of the site The ancient city of Teotihuacán is the most visited of Mexico’s archaeological sites and a must-see if you’re in Mexico City. The site is impressive for its scale, both in the size of the Pyramid of the Sun (the third largest pyramid in the world) and the majesty of the Calle de los Muertos (Street of the Dead) - originally 4km long and flanked by temples, palaces and platforms. Look for amazingly well preserved murals in the Palace of the Jaguars or the Palace of the Quetzal-butterfly and bold sculptures in the Temple of Quetzalcoátl. The Pyramid of the Sun is the third largest in the world Be prepared for lots of walking and climbing here, and remember that the altitude will make your exertions more tiring than usual. The Pyramid of the Sun is the tallest of the two major pyramids, though it is an easier climb than the Pyramid of the Moon which has larger steps. If at all possible, we’d recommend climbing to the top of the Sun and then at least to the first platform of the Moon for the awesome view down the Calle de los Muertos. Bearing the above in mind, bring some water (the refreshment stalls are quite a distance from the pyramids) a sunhat, camera, guidebook - but little else to drag around. As usual it’s best to arrive early in the morning or towards the end of the day to avoid the crowds or the heat (morning is best in summer, when rainfall is more common in the afternoon). Most of the tour buses have an annoying habit of starting out early in the morning but then stopping at other less strenuous sights on the way, and/or calling in at a souvenir shop before the site, so that you finally arrive around noon. Note that in winter it can actually be quite cool (even if it is warm in the city), and a sweater is recommended. You’ll find a visitors’ complex with restaurant, toilets and shops at the entrance near the citadel. There’s also a museum housing a scale model of the city at its peak - well worth a look before or after your visit. Outside of the summer months (July - September) there is a sound and light show in the evening - in English at 7pm and in Spanish at 8pm. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 138 of 159 Mexico 2004 Getting There By car (or taxi) - it will take about 45 minutes from the city center if you use the toll motorway, much longer if you use the old free road. There is a small fee for parking at the site. A taxi may work out prohibitively expensive, though sometimes "tours" with a car and driver/guide can be arranged for a reasonable fee if you want the convenience. By bus - Autobuses Teotihuacán leave the North bus station every half an hour or so. Check that your bus goes to the site entrance and not just to the town of San Juan Teotihuacán nearby. It will take around an hour, and the buses run until about 6pm - check the last departure before you leave. By tour bus - most travel agencies offer half or full day tours to the site, often combined with the Plaza de la Tres Culturas and the Basilica of Guadalupe, both of which are outside the city center. It’s a convenient way to combine the three, but note our comments above about getting to the site early. The price is around 200 pesos ($25). History Teotihuacán was a large settlement by 150BC, its importance probably arising from a cave system with religious significance, located underneath the present day Pyramid of the Sun. As other settlements in the area diminished, Teotihuacán flourished and became a religious and economic center, controlling the region’s production of obsidian (the black stone used to make weapons and utensils). Between 1AD and 250AD the ceremonial core was completed, including the Pyramids of the Sun and Moon and the Calle de los Muertos. The massive pyramid structures were painted red and must have been an awe-inspiring sight. Trading relationships were established with Monte Albán in Oaxaca and the gulf coast - there is little evidence of any hostility during the years of prosperity. (You will not see any depictions of warfare or human sacrifice in the carvings and murals at Teotihuacán, unlike many contemporary cities in Mexico). Major expansion in population and housing occurred between 250-450AD. As many as 200,000 inhabitants have been estimated and at least 2000 "houses" counted. Most of these buildings were home to large family groups or artisan communes. There were even delegations from other cities - a group of craftsmen from Monte Albán is known to have shared a workshop here. The prosperity continued to 650AD and around this time it was the sixth largest city in the world. In 400AD, with around 200,000 inhabitants Teotihuacán was the sixth largest city in the world 300 years later it was found virtually abandoned However, in 650AD, a great fire swept through the city, devastating many communities. For some unknown reason a swift decline ensued and there was no massive reconstruction exercise. Several theories prevail - invasion from a rival city taking advantage of temporary weakness, or a culmination of the erosion of natural resources by over-exploitation. Whatever the cause, the population soon moved to other growing cities and Teotihuacán was virtually deserted. By the time the Aztecs arrived on the scene, the area was little more than an ancient ruin. To the Aztecs, Teotihuacán was a holy place, where the sun, moon and universe were created. It was they who gave Teotihuacán its name, meaning "The place where men become gods". They also named the Calle de los Muertos, thinking (wrongly) that the many ruined temples and monuments along the "road" were burial places of early rulers. However, the city never regained its concentration of population. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 139 of 159 Mexico 2004 In time earth and grass covered the great pyramids, until they appeared little more than large hills on the landscape. Cortés passed through the area in the 16th century and paid little attention to what structures were visible. It was not until the 19th century that proper excavation and restoration was begun. The Citadel and Temple of Quetzalcóatl The main entrance and visitors’ center is directly opposite the La Ciudadela (The Citadel). This large sunken plaza was the city’s administrative center; you’ll see the foundations of several rooms and buildings around the perimeter. Its name was given by the Spanish, who mistook the perimeter platform and pyramid remains for a fortress and towers. At the eastern end of the plaza, furthest from the visitors’ center, is the Temple of Quetzalcóatl. On approach you will see a four tier pyramid, with steep steps up the nearest side. This construction completely covered a previous pyramid and temple, but excavations on the eastern side have revealed a section of this original building. To see this, walk around the railed platform. The exposed four-tier (originally six) pyramid has protruding sculptures of serpents alternating with masks of Tláloc, god of rain and maize. The serpents have plumes or feathers around their necks (Quetzalcóatl being the ‘plumed serpent’) and their bodies curve from the left of the head, ending in a rattle. The Tláloc masks have corn-cob faces, with big circular eyes and two fangs. Carvings of shells and snails around the masks are earth and water symbols. Originally these would all have been painted in bright colors; green plumes and obsidian eyes for the serpent, white fangs and red jaws for Tláloc. Some traces of paint can still be seen. Calle de los Muertos Leaving the citadel, walk up the Calle de los Muertos towards the Pyramid of the Moon. On the left you’ll pass the "Edificios Superpuestos" (superimposed buildings) where excavations have unearthed living quarters below the present level, filled in with rubble in order to build the second stage. Pyramid of the Sun Early reconstruction work by Leopoldo Batres in the early 20th century has unfortunately removed evidence of the true appearance of the pyramid, including its original height. It is now around 215 feet (65 m) high with five tiers, though the fourth and fifth tier were divided by Batres and there were probably only four original, roughly even tiers. Directly under the Pyramid of the Sun is a tunnel which leads to caves used for religious ceremonies Climb the steps to the top of the pyramid; most of the tiers have small steps that are relatively easier on the legs than those of the Pyramid of the Moon. At the top there would almost certainly have been a temple, of which no trace remains. The view, however, is tremendous and well worth the climb. Directly under the pyramid is the cave system that is believed to have determined its location. An man-made entrance was discovered in 1971 at the perimeter of the pyramid, with steep stone steps cut into the walls of a shaft 23 feet (7m) deep. From the bottom, a tunnel leads to the natural caves, extended to form four rooms. Here various artifacts were found which indicate early use, probably for religious purposes (caves and water sources, which this C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 140 of 159 Mexico 2004 was likely to be, were seen as holy places). Palaces of the Jaguar and Quetzal-butterfly Approaching the Pyramid of the Moon from the Sun, a grand plaza opens up at the base of the pyramid. Several platforms and smaller pyramids surround the plaza, each pyramid with a central staircase originally leading to a temple. On the left hand side are the remains of palaces, some with murals and carvings still visible. The Palace of the Jaguar has murals of jaguars with feathered headdresses, whilst in the Palace of the Quetzal-butterfly are carved pillars depicting a hybrid bird-butterfly. The eyes of these creatures were set with obsidian and some still pieces are still intact. These palaces were elaborately decorated and are assumed to have been the homes of high priests. Other murals can be seen in residential areas outside of the main complex; at Tepantitla behind the Palace of the Sun and also at Tetila and Atetelco, west of the main site. Pyramid of the Moon Although this pyramid is smaller than that of the Sun, it was constructed on higher ground and its peak is roughly at the same height. Here there are four tiers, and some of the steps are so large that climbing the pyramid requires much effort. It is worth at least climbing to the first platform though, for the view directly down the Calle de los Muertos is highly memorable. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 141 of 159 Mexico 2004 Uxmal a pyramid built overnight by a dwarf magician and palaces carved with undulating serpents Uxmal rises above the trees Uxmal is one of the most well known of the Maya cities, and rated by many archaeologists as the finest. In area the site is fairly compact, though you should allow at least half a day for a first visit, after which you’ll probably want to return to go over the site in more detail. There has been much renovation work and the grounds are well tended, but wear good shoes if you intend to do any climbing. It is permitted to climb the largest structure, the Pyramid of the Magician, and the view from the top is well worth the effort, though the steps are extremely steep. Considered by many archeologists as one of the finest examples of an ancient Maya city Facilities at the entrance are excellent, with cafeterias, souvenir shops and toilet facilities. There is also a small museum and auditorium. If you arrive early, skip the museum and see the site first before the heat is too uncomfortable. The site is open between 8am and 5pm, with a sound and light show in the evening, (in Spanish at 7pm and English at 9pm). As usual, we recommend an early or late visit to avoid the midday heat. There’s an admission fee of around $4 and a further fee for the sound and light show. All the sites are free on Sundays. From Mérida, follow the 261 in the direction of Campeche. The site is about 70 miles (110 km) from Mérida and it should take about an hour by car. The entrance is very well signed from the 261. We recommend hiring a car as the best way to see Uxmal and the other Puuc sites with some flexibility. Otherwise, take a tour from Mérida. Background The name Uxmal means 'thrice-built' in Mayan, referring to the construction of its highest structure, the Pyramid of the Magician. The Maya would often build a new temple over an existing one, and in this case five stages of construction have actually been found. Uxmal was one of the largest cities of the Yucatán peninsula, and at its height was home to about 25,000 Maya. Like the other Puuc sites, it flourished in the Late Classic period (around 600-900AD). Indications are that its rulers presided also over the nearby settlements in Kabah, Labná and Sayil, and there are several sacbeob connecting the sites. The area is known as the Ruta Puuc or Puuc route, from the nearby hills. With a population of about 25,000 Uxmal was one of the largest cities in the Yucatán C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 142 of 159 Mexico 2004 Puuc architecture has several predominant features, most notably constructions with a plain lower section and a richly decorated upper section. Carvings most commonly found include serpents, lattice work and masks of the god Chac. Chac was the god of rain, greatly revered by the Maya at Uxmal because of the lack of natural water supplies in the city. Although the Yucatán has no surface rivers, most Maya cities, including Chichén Itzá, used cenotes to access underground water, however there were no cenotes at Uxmal. Instead, it was necessary to collect water in chultunes or cisterns, built in the ground. The proximity of the Puuc hills did mean, however, that comparatively rich soil from the hilltop forests was washed down the slopes during rainstorms, making the area one of the most successful agricultural regions of the Yucatán. Human Sacrifice In "Incidents of Travel in the Yucatan" John Stevens recounts stories of the human sacrifices performed at the highest temple of the House of the Magician. With the victim still alive, the priest would rip out the heart with a flint knife, and throw the body (allegedly still moving) down the steep steps. The Legend of the Pyramid of the Magician Legend held that when a certain gong was sounded, the town of Uxmal would fall to a boy "not born of woman". One day, a dwarf boy, who had been raised from an egg by a witch, sounded the gong and struck fear into the ruler, who ordered him to be executed. The ruler promised that the boy’s life would be saved if he could perform three impossible tasks, one of which was to build a giant pyramid in a single night. The boy achieved all the tasks, and became the new ruler. The Pyramid of the Magician Standing 117 feet (38 m) high, this structure dominates your view as you enter the complex. Unusually built on an elliptical base, this pyramid is the result of five superimposed temples. Parts of the first temple can be seen when ascending the western staircase; the second and third are accessed by the eastern staircase, in an inner chamber at the second level. The fourth temple is clearly visible from the west side, a giant Chac mask marks the entrance and Chac’s mouth is the door! Note also the series of Chac masks on the sides of the stairway. Climb to the top of the east stairs to reach the fifth temple and view the whole site. Legend says that a dwarf boy raised by a witch built the pyramid in one night The Nunnery Quadrangle This collection of four buildings around a quadrangle was named "Casa de las Monjas" (The Nunnery) by the Spanish, because the 74 small rooms around the courtyard reminded them of nuns’ quarters in a Spanish convent. Each of the four buildings has a unique ornate façade, and each is built on a different level. The northern building is the oldest and the grandest; here you can see many typical Puuc embellishments - Chac masks arranged one over another vertically, serpents and lattice work. The building to the east and closest to the House of the Magician is the best preserved, with a stack of Chac masks over the central doorway and serpents above the doorways to the left and right. The exact purpose of the group is not known, though, given the size and importance of the site, it is thought likely to have housed visiting dignitaries or administrative offices. The Palace of the Governor Regarded by many experts as the best example of Puuc architecture in existence, the Palace of the Governor stands on an artificial raised platform and is thought to be one of the last constructed building on the site (around 987AD). The structure has a typical plain lower section and a richly carved upper. Amongst the depictions are serpents, lattices and masks and also a central seated god-like figure with a long plumed head-dress. House of the Turtles Next to the Palace of the Governor and on the same raised platform stands the House of the Turtles, so called because of a frieze of turtles carved around the cornice. It was believed that turtles suffered with man at times of drought and would also pray to Chac for rain. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 143 of 159 Mexico 2004 The Great Pyramid Originally nine levels high, the Great Pyramid has been partially restored. It seems that another temple was to be superimposed on the existing structure and some demolition had taken place before the plans were halted, leaving the pyramid in bad condition. However, you can still see Puuc-style stonework on the façade. Other Structures Follow the signs to more areas of interest outside the central section; the beautiful but sadly ruined House of the Doves, the House of the Old Woman (the adoptive mother of the dwarf in the legend of the Pyramid of the Magician), the Temple of the Phalli and the Cemetery Group. The Pyramid of the Magician The entrance to Temple IV is a giant Chac mask Entrance to the Nunnery Inside the Nunnery Complex C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 144 of 159 Mexico 2004 The Nunnery - Eastern building Governor's Palace C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 145 of 159 Mexico 2004 Kabah Kaba is home to the stunning façade of the Codz-Pop (meaning "rolled-up mat"). Try to visualize the effect of a whole wall of Chac masks, around 250 in total, with big round eyes and protruding, curled noses. The intricacy of the carving is amazing and much of the detail is intact, though many of the noses are incomplete. Even the steps into the building are part of a Chac face; the footstep is a curved nose. It’s a tremendous sight, and the suggestion that each nose may have held a torch to light up the whole structure conjures up a remarkable picture in the mind. Note also the elaborate roof comb, once 10 ft (3 m) high, perforated with rectangular openings. On the same side of the road are the Great Temple and Temple of the Columns, palace-like structures with plainer façades, where restoration work is ongoing. The grounds are lawned and fairly flat, so it’s easy to wander around. The Codz-Pop Don’t miss the Arch of Kabah on the other side of the road, marking the end of a ceremonial sacbe about 2½ miles (4½ km) long leading from Uxmal. In the other direction the sacbe is believed to have extended to Labná. Detail of Chac masks C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 146 of 159 Mexico 2004 Chichén Itzá images of war and death abound in this great city of the Maya The ruins of Chichén Itzá lie about midway between Cancún and Mérida, so that the journey from each city takes around 2 or 3 hours via the new autopista. It is possible to see the main structures on a day trip from Cancún, and many tour buses do just this resulting in a large influx of visitors around 10-11am. Chichén Itzá is the most visited site in the Yucatán and it can get very crowded here, so if at all possible try to arrive soon after the 8am opening. This will give you time to climb the Pyramid of Kukulkán before it gets too hot, and will allow you to view the whole site from the top before the crowds swarm in. Alternatively, leave your visit until later in the day and stay overnight nearer the site, returning in the early morning. Ideally, you will need two days for a good understanding of the site, which covers 4 square miles. The Pyramid of Kukulkán Admission charge to the ruins is around 75 pesos. The evening sound and light show costs 35 pesos (add another 25 pesos for headphones if you want to listen to the commentary in English). The show usually starts at around 8.00pm, but we'd suggest you r-confirm the time when you arrive. Your ticket permits re-entry on the same day only. At the entrance to the site is a large visitors’ complex, with cafeterias, restrooms, bookshops and a small museum. There are also models of the layout of the site. Note that there is a second refreshment shop with toilet facilities by the cenote. History Chichén Itzá has been widely studied, and excavated and restored more than any of the other Mayan cities. Yet its history is still clouded in mystery and there are many contradicting theories and legends. The Ball Court A large Mayan community thrived here between 700AD and 900AD It is clear that a large Mayan community thrived here between around 700AD and 900AD, and built most of C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 147 of 159 Mexico 2004 the structures in the southern area. However, the main buildings in the central area, including the Pyramid of Kukulkán, the Temple of the Warriors and the Ball Court, are Toltec in design and influence. Inside the Ball Court The Toltecs originated from Central Mexico, and one respected theory suggests that the Toltecs invaded Chichén Itzá and imposed their architectural style on new constructions. Alternatively, we know that the Maya traded extensively and it is possible that they were influenced by the Toltecs in their own architecture. Another more recent theory claims that Tula, capital of the Toltecs, was actually under the domination of the Maya, resulting in a transfer of style from one city to another. There are fragments of evidence to support each line of thought, but no conclusive evidence for any single theory. Compounding the mystery are ancient legends passed down through the Mayan tribes and also the Toltecs. According to Toltec history, in 987AD the legendary ruler Quetzalcóatl was defeated and expelled from Tula. He was last seen leaving from the Gulf coast on a raft of serpents. However, in the same year, Mayan stories recorded the arrival of a king named Kukulkán, the Serpent God, whose return had been expected. Kukulkán defeated the Mayan city tribes, and made Chichén Itzá his capital. The South End of the Ball Court Serpent Head on the Platform of Venus The Pyramid of Kukulkán Towering above the other buildings at 79 feet (24 m) high, the Pyramid of Kukulkán has a structured feel about it. Two of its sides have been completely restored, the other two were left to show the condition before work commenced. Each side had originally 91 steps, adding the platform at the top as a final step there are 365 in total one for every day of the year. Further evidence that this building was linked to the Mayan interests of astronomy and the calendar is demonstrated at the spring and autumn equinox. On these days the shadow of the sun playing on the stairs causes the illusion of a snake processing down the pyramid in the direction of the cenote. Naturally, it’s an impressive sight, and there are usually thousands of people on the site at these times. At the spring and autumn equinoxes, the sun's shadow creates the illusion of a snake moving down the pyramid It’s quite a climb to the top, but once you’re there you’ll have a terrific view of the rest of the ruins. The temple at C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 148 of 159 Mexico 2004 the top of the pyramid has carvings of Chac, the rain god, and Quetzalcóatl, the serpent god. As at Uxmal, this temple was built over the top of an original structure and at limited times of the day (check at the entrance) you can enter the old temple via a passage under the northern stairway. Inside you’ll see a sculpture of a jaguar, painted red and with jade eyes, exactly as it was discovered. Temple of the Jaguars and Eagles The Ball Court (Juego de Pelota) From the Pyramid of Kukulkán, head north-east to the Great Ball Court, the largest of its kind in the Maya world. There are eight other much smaller ball courts at Chichén Itzá and more in other Maya cities, but this one was deliberately built on a much grander scale than any others. The length of the playing field here is 40 feet (135 m) and two 25 feet (8 m) high walls run alongside the field. The game itself involved two teams, each able to hit the ball only with elbows, wrists or hips, and the object was to knock the ball through one of the stone hoops on the walls of the court. The Sacred Cenote Group of 1000 Columns C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Look at the carvings on the lower walls of the court and you will see that this was not a casual sport there are clear depictions of one team member with blood spurting from his headless neck, whilst another holds the head aloft. Some people think the captain of the losing side was executed by the winner; others suggest that the winners earned an honorable sacrifice. No-one knows for sure. It is said that the game was used either as a method of settling disputes, or as an offering to the gods, perhaps in times of drought. Only the best were selected to play, and to be sacrificed in this way was a great honor. Games in the Ball Court were used to settle disputes or as an offering to the gods. Many believe the losers were put to death Imagine, then, the significance of this giant court, where the goals are 20 feet (66 m) high and the court is longer than a football pitch. The acoustics here are superb - a low voice at one end of the court can be heard clearly at the other end and the atmosphere during a game must have been electrifying. It is said that only the noblest could attend the court itself, the general population having to listen from outside. Page 149 of 159 Mexico 2004 Temple of the Jaguars and the Tzompantli From the ball court, head east across the central area towards the Group of the Thousand columns. On the way, you will see the Temple of the Jaguars with its friezes of the Toltec jaguar emblem, and the Tzompantli or Platform of the skulls. It is believed that the Tzompantli (a Toltec word) was the platform used for the sacrifices resulting from the ball game. Sacred Cenote Before you reach the Group of the Thousand Columns, you will see a pathway heading north, just by the Platform of Venus. This is actually the route of an ancient sacbe, and leads to the Sacred Cenote. A cenote is a sinkhole in the limestone bed, accessing an underwater river. These cenotes were very important to the Mayans as their main source of water and had great religious significance. Here you will see a deep almost circular hole with steep sides and murky green water beneath. There are stories of sacrificial victims being thrown into the Cenote There are stories of sacrificial victims being thrown into the cenote, along with offerings of treasure. In 1901 an American, Edward Thompson, bought the land around the site and proceeded to dredge the cenote. He found jewelry, pottery, figurines and the bones of many humans, mostly children. An international dispute arose when he shipped the findings to the Peabody Museum at Harvard, where some still remain (the remainder have since been returned to the Mexicans). The evidence, however, was inconclusive as it was feasible that children were most likely to fall into the cenote during play rather than as a deliberate act of sacrifice. A stroll to the cenote is a pleasant diversion from the ruins and makes an ideal refreshment stop there is a small café/shop nearby and restrooms are available. Group of the Thousand Columns After visiting the cenote, head back towards the Group of the Thousand Columns. This complex incorporates the Temple of the Warriors and a series of columns, some of which feature carvings of Toltec warriors. It is believed that the columns originally supported a thatched roof which may have been used as a market place. The temple itself displays another aspect of Toltec architecture the use of ‘Atlantean figures’, or statues supporting the altar. Here the statues are of warriors, each with the appearance of a different racial type. It is unclear as to whether these designs were accidental or whether the Maya were really aware of the diversity of the human race. Look also for the large Chac Mool sculpture, again a feature of Central Mexican rather than Yucatecan design. The reclining figure holds a bowl, awaiting some sacrificial offering. The Caracol From the central plaza, take the path to the southern area of the ruins. This is thought to house the oldest constructions, and is predominantly Mayan in design. The Nunnery (Edificio de las Monjas) and the Church (La Iglesia), both erroneously named by the Spanish, are in relatively poor condition. Look for depictions in La Iglesia of the four bacabs; these creatures (the crab, armadillo, snail and tortoise) were believed to be responsible for holding up the heavens. The most impressive structure is the Caracol, named for its curved inner stairway reminiscent of a snail. Also known as the Observatory, this tower was used for astronomy its windows were aligned with the four cardinal directions and the position of the setting sun at the equinoxes. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 150 of 159 Mexico 2004 Quetzalcóatl The ‘feathered serpent’ god, an important deity over all Mexico and known to the Maya as Kukulkán. According to legend, Quetzalcóatl left the east coast on a raft of serpents, promising to return. Around the same time, Mayan legend records the arrival in the Yucatán of Kukulkán, coming from the sea on a raft. The Aztecs and several other ancient civilisations believed in a cyclical calendar, so that Quetzalcóatl would return at fixed intervals of time. Cortés happened to arrive in the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlán at the date predicted for the return of Quetzalcóatl, and also shared several of the god’s physical characteristics. Thus Montezuma was led to believe that Cortés was a god – a major contributing factor to Cortés’ success in conquering the Aztecs. Hernan Cortés was the leader of the Spanish Conquest of Mexico in 1521. He marched on the imposing Aztec capital of Tenochtitlán from his base near Veracruz. Initially unbeknown to Cortés, the Aztecs had prophesised the return of the great god Quetzacoátl in the very year and month of his arrival. The physical similarities between Cortés and the god helped to convince the Aztec Emperor Montezuma that the two were one and the same - this led to his hesitation in attacking the Spanish and ultimately to the success of the conquest. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 151 of 159 Mexico 2004 Cobá deep in the Yucatecan jungle ancient roads converge at a long lost city Cobá is beautiful and mysterious - a visit here requires some effort but is very worthwhile. Its name means "ruffled waters", derived from the five lakes in the vicinity, and it is one of the oldest Mayan settlements on the peninsular. It also has the highest pyramid in the area and the greatest concentration of sacbeob (Mayan roads constructed from stone), both of which suggest a major city - yet the ruins were not discovered until the late 19th century. Even today, only a small fraction of the many structures in this vast site have been excavated and this, together with the remoteness and jungle setting, contribute to the feeling of exploring new ground. Bring a Panama hat and imagine you're Indiana Jones... The city rises through the jungle There is a collection of wooden stalls selling artifacts and refreshments around the entrance to the site. There are no other refreshments available on the site, so stock up here and prepare for walking through the jungle with good shoes and lots of insect repellent. Bring a hat and imagine you're Indiana Jones... You will need to walk at least 3km to see the biggest pyramid; the main routes are on wide, well signed paths but there are many smaller tracks leading into the jungle which you may wish to investigate. Some are visibly very short but for others a guide (there are usually several around the gate) is advisable. The largest pyramid, Nohoch Mul Allow at least half a day to see the main structures and try to avoid the heat of the day. There are no crowds here, as Cobá is not on the tour bus routes, and any other travelers you meet will be of the serious kind rather than the bikini-clad tourists at Tulúm. Opening times are the usual 8.00am to 5.00pm. Toilet facilities by the entrance are basic but clean, a small fee is charged for their use. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 152 of 159 Mexico 2004 Cobá was a thriving city from around A.D.600, although it had been settled for around a thousand years before this date. It is more similar to Tikal in Guatemala than to its Mayan neighbors, and depictions of female Tikal royalty on several stelae found here have led to speculation that there was at least one marriage between the royalty of the two cities. Another interesting feature of Cobá is the convergence of around forty sacbeob, built by the Maya, one of which has been traced a distance of 60 miles (100 km). Each sacbe was constructed with stones to a height of one to two meters and then covered with white mortar. Their purpose is puzzling as this civilization had no wheeled transport and had yet to see the horse, but may have been built for religious processions and pilgrimages. Cobá is one of the oldest settlements in the Yucatan The first group of structures (Groupo Cobá) is within view of the entrance. Here is La Iglesia, a pyramid over 65 ft (20 m) high and the second largest at Cobá. The steps are steep and crumbling, and climbing had been prohibited on our last visit. Back on the main path, follow the signs to Nohoch Mul, the largest pyramid, over a mile (nearly 2 km) away. The walk is interesting as there are several stelae, protected by palapa roofs, shown where they were discovered and there are many more unexcavated mounds along the way. This is also a good chance to observe the jungle life; butterflies, birds and insects abound but the path is wide and foliage well cleared. Nohoch Mul is a staggering 136 ft (42 m) high and towers above the jungle. The steps are disintegrating in places (look for shell-like carvings in others), but climbing the pyramid is not too difficult. Descending is more so, but rest for a while at the top and admire the scenery - miles of jungle, lakes and a good view of the site as a whole. The temple, which crowns the pyramid, was added later and is similar in style to those at Tulúm; there is a carving of the descending god at the entrance. Nohoch Mul, the largest pyramid, is a staggering 136ft (42m) high. On the way back from Nohoch Mul, another smaller path leads to Conjunto Las Picturas (Temple of the Paintings) where fragments of color can be seen in some murals at the top of a four tiered pyramid. As you return, look for remains of sacbeob along the path and ponder the mysteries of Cobá! C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 153 of 159 Mexico 2004 Introduction The Basics Typical Dishes At Breakfast Safe Options Preparing Mexican food at home Buy Mexican food online Introduction Real Mexican food is quite unlike the dishes found in most Mexican and Tex-Mex restaurants in other countries. In tourist areas you’ll find restaurants with familiar names and ‘gringo’ menus, though the offerings will often be over-priced and not of a high standard. If you have a taste for adventure you’ll be well rewarded in Mexico; if not stick to a few simple and traditional dishes that are almost always excellent and not too spicy. You’ll find standards much higher than if you search the menus for something familiar. Mexican cuisine has some superb rich or spicy dishes, but we recommend that you take it easy for the first few days until your stomach has grown accustomed to its new environment. Upset stomachs are commonly associated with unpurified water used in ice, to wash salads and fruit, stressful traveling, or simply bacteria different to those at home. Mexicans also suffer when they travel abroad, and if you stay in Mexico for more than a few weeks you may even experience the same acclimatization disorders when you reach home. Once you’ve settled down, however, do try some of the regional specialties. It’s all part of the experience, and for many people Mexican food is one of the great attractions of a vacation. The Basics You’ll encounter all of these in your first few days in Mexico: Tortillas The staple food of generations of ordinary Mexicans, tortillas can be made of flour (more common in the north) or maize (the traditional method and still the most common in the south). Often served alongside a meal as bread would be, tortillas are also used in many typical dishes – rolled and baked for enchiladas, C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Salsa A salsa is actually just a sauce, although it is most commonly associated with the red or green mix of tomatoes, onion, chili and cilantro (coriander) served on your table as a relish or a dip. Beware of ‘salsa habañero’ in innocuous bottles like small jars of ketchup, and always try just a little salsa first as a Page 154 of 159 Mexico 2004 fried for tacos or grilled for quesadillas. Buy tortillas online at Mexgrocer.com precaution. Buy salsa online at Mexgrocer.com Frijoles (beans) A good source of protein, beans of different varieties are most commonly boiled and then fried. They can be a main ingredient in a meal or served almost as a garnish. Buy beans online at Mexgrocer.com Tequila This infamous spirit is most commonly served to tourists in the form of a margarita – mixed with lime juice in salt-rimmed glasses. It is actually derived from the maguey plant – a spiky bush often seen growing in fields. Mezcal is a cruder form of Tequila traditionally served with a worm in the bottle – the worm should be eaten when the bottle is finished! Chilies In general, the bigger the chili, the milder the flavor. Large Poblano chilies are stuffed and served as a main course, the small habañero is ferociously hot. To ask if a dish is spicy, say "es picante?" – though hotel menus will often specify dishes that might offend tourist palates. Buy chilies online at Mexgrocer.com Cerveza Mexican beers are now known all over the world. Corona, Sol and Dos Equis are common brands, usually served cold and a very refreshing alternative to iced drinks. Guacamole Avocado mashed with onions, chilies and cilantro (coriander). Served as a dip or as a garnish. Typical Dishes For more examples, take a look at the sample menus shown in many of our hotel features. Ceviche Raw fish marinated in lime juice, often in a chopped salad. Chills Renellos Large Poblano chilies stuffed with cheese or spicy meat (picadillo). The chilies are mild, though the sauce may not be. Enchiladas Tortillas coated in a tomato and chili sauce, stuffed with vegetables, chicken or pork then folded and baked. Despite the chili content, enchiladas are often fairly mild. Enchiladas suizas are topped with sour cream. Huachinango Red Snapper, a common feature on the menus at coastal resorts. Often available ‘al gusto’ or cooked in a choice of methods. Quesadillas Tortillas stuffed with cheese, folded and grilled. A simple dish often served with beans or a little salad and suitable for those avoiding anything spicy. Mole sauce A wonderful rich sauce made with the unlikely combination of chocolate, chilies and many spices. It can be red or green depending on the ingredients and the moles of Puebla and Oaxaca are particularly famous, hence ‘mole poblano’ or ‘mole oaxaqeño’. The sauce is often served over chicken, though turkey is more traditional. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Pipían sauce Another of Oaxaca’s specialties, pipían sauce is green and made from pumpkin seeds. It is often served over chicken. Poc Chuc Another Yucatecan specialty, where pork fillet is cooked with tomatoes, onions and spices. Pollo Pibil A Yucatecan specialty, not often found outside this region. It traditionally consists of chicken marinated in orange and spices then barbecued in banana leaves. Tacos Tortillas fried until they are crispy and served with various fillings. Tamales Cornmeal paste wrapped in corn or banana husks and often stuffed with chicken, pork or turkey and/or vegetables, then steamed. Tortas Mexican sandwiches, often large rolls with generous fillings. Tostados Thin and crisp tortillas served loaded with guacamole, sour cream, chilies, chicken etc. Page 155 of 159 Mexico 2004 At Breakfast Continental breakfast or ‘American’ bacon or ham and eggs are often available. Mexicans often have just coffee and sweet rolls first thing in the morning with a more substantial meal around 11am, but many of the options below could feature on your breakfast menu. Egg dishes are popular and very tasty, often served with beans. Plata de Frutas Mixed fruit plate, perhaps including banana, mangoes, melon, or papaya. Heuvos a la Mexicana Scrambled with chopped tomato, onion and chilies. Chilaquiles Tortillas stir fried with onions, spices and maybe chicken, topped with cheese and served with a sort of gravy. Huevos Rancheros Fried and smothered with a chili sauce, often hot. Huevos revueltos Scrambled eggs, often served with bacon (con tocino) or ham (con jamón) Huevos Motuleños Fried eggs on tortillas, covered with a sauce of tomatoes, chilies, peas and ham. Topped with cheese and served with refried beans. Safe Options We’d recommend the following as introductions to Mexican food that aren’t too spicy: Quesadillas Enchiladas (usually) Plain fish dishes Tostadas (check the ingredients) Beans and rice Tortas (check the fillings) C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 156 of 159 Mexico 2004 Cities in August Rain (mm): 227 150 108 208 134 142 121 104 252 327 66 178 Temp (°C): 28 28 28 21 20 28 18 21 28 28 15 29 Mexico City lies at an altitude of 7,240 feet (2,230 m) above sea level - enough to make many people breathless for a few days when they arrive. It also offers cooler temperatures, often welcome after exposure to the coastal heat. In general it is a dry city, though summer brings short spells of rain most afternoons. Bring a sweater or jacket for the evenings and possibly an umbrella in summer and you'll be well prepared for touring the sights. C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 157 of 159 Mexico 2004 Oaxaca lies in a valley at an altitude of 5,000 feet (1540 m) above sea level, surrounded by impressive mountain ranges. The city's easy going atmosphere is complemented by year-round spring temperatures, perfect for the appreciation of Oaxaca's many cultural sights and events. Summer rains fall generally in the afternoons - a dull morning is rare at any time of the year. Mérida lies in the Yucatán Peninsula and has a similar climate to its neighbor, Cancún. However, being an inland city, Mérida's heat is more apparent, especially during the summer months when sightseeing can be wearying. It is essential to bring protection against the sun and to drink plenty of water at these times. Try to avoid the heat of the day when visiting the many archaeological sites in the area. Cancún lies on the Yucatán Peninsula, an area of low lying and almost completely flat limestone based land. Temperatures are ideal for a beach vacation at any time of year, and unlike the southern Pacific coastline the rainfall is not concentrated in the summer months. There is a chance of rain throughout the year, though March and April are the driest months. Rainfall is usually in short, sharp bursts and freshens the atmosphere a little. The hurricane season is around August to October. For those considering a summer vacation, July is generally drier and more predictable than August. Cancún is also ideal for a winter break C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 158 of 159 Mexico 2004 C:\WWWIN\Reizen\Mexico\Mexico-Reisbeschrijving_2004.doc Page 159 of 159
Similar documents
Mexico: Getting Started
plans once you get there: Mexico offers so many wonderful things to see and do that you’re guaranteed to want to fit more in. There’ll always be that colorful local festival happening, or that beau...
More information