Zurich - In Your Pocket

Transcription

Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels
Zurich
April - May 2015
Pick it quick
Zurich’s best on one page
Spring surprises
Burning snowmen and
a bike tour into the wild
FREE COPY
inyourpocket.com
N°28
Contents
Arriving & Getting Around
6
Get your bearings
City Basics
8
Facts, habits, attitudes
History
12
Once upon a time
Spring cycling tour
13
An easy cycling excursion for a sunny day
Culture & Events
14
Concerts, shows and exhibitions
Quick picks
18
19
Shopping
41
Watches & Jewellery
47
Where to find the one you’re looking for
29
Chocolate, coffee and conversation
Nightlife
34
Fancy fashion and Swiss design
Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more
Cafés
Sightseeing
Churches, murals and museums
The editors’ favourites on one page
Restaurants
The local spring custom Sächsilüüte is not only about burning
snowmen - it’s a colourful event (p. 15). For more spring action
AM
see our cycling tour on p. 13.
Zurich Nord
52
Restaurants and bars in the north of the city
30
Bars, pubs and clubs
Zurich for kids
53
Major fun for minor citizens
Daytrips
54
Mountains, monasteries, museums
Queer Zurich
56
Hotels
57
Hotels, hostels, pensions
Directory
61
Maps & Index
For at-a-glance recommendations, try the editor’s picks on p. 18 including Thermalbad and Spa Zurich. swiss-image.ch/Beat Hübscher
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City map
Index
Public transport map
62-64
65
66
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April - May 2015
3
Foreword
Spring tends to arrive in Zurich with a bang. A bang at six
o’clock, that is! That’s when the head of the snowman-like
Böögg explodes in the centre of Zurich (or a little later),
on April 13 this year. This cruel execution of the snowman
– and winter with it – is part of the local custom called
Sächsilüüte, which is unique to Zurich. It’s accompanied by
a large procession which is quite a spectacle (see p. 15).
But some citizens of Zurich – and even more so the
Swiss from neighbouring cantons – sniff at it. For them,
Sächsilüüte is just the Zurich establishment showing
off in their usual arrogant way. Big city Zurich is not
popular everywhere in Switzerland. But it’s just the usual
neighbourly bickering you get elsewhere too.
And Sächsilüüte is cultural heritage! Actually, it’s on the
national inventory of living traditions. (Which really
does exist: www.living-traditions.ch). Switzerland has
proposed eight of these to be designated world intangible
cultural heritage by the UN. The shortlist does include
some surprises – and things that go bang. Avalanche
management for instance, which is done by throwing
explosives at snowy slopes. Or Swiss graphic design.
Sächsilüüte, however, did not make it onto the list. Maybe
the neighbours weren’t quite ready for that.
Publisher
pocket publishing GmbH
Wuhrstrasse 15, 8003 Zürich
tel. +41 32 510 85 76
zurich@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.ch
Member of Zürich Tourism / Spirit Club
Yearly print run: 180 000 (6 x 30 000)
ISSN 1663-9944
© pocket publishing GmbH 2015
Editorial
Editors Chris Young & Lukas Füglister; Research Roman Wasik
& MBS-crew; Layout & Maps Tomáš Haman; Photos Juan
Rubiano (www.juanrubiano.com), Agata Muszyńska (AM),
Zurich In Your Pocket (ZIYP), Zurich Tourism: Caroline Minjolle
(CM), Martin Rütschi (MR), Bruno Macor (BM), Gaetan Bally (GB);
Cover © iStock.com/AleksandarGeorgiev
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Lukas Füglister
Sales Manager Susi Haefeli, tel. +41 32 511 28 68,
susi.haefeli@inyourpocket.com
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closing date next issue: May 12, 2015
Copyright notice & Editor’s note
Text and maps copyright pocket publishing GmbH (unless
otherwise stated). Photos copyright photographers. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in
any form without written permission from the copyright
owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license
from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to
ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
COVER STORY
Our cover shows the core of Zurich’s
old town on the river Limmat, with
the tower of St. Peter to the left and
the Rathaus sitting in the water
on the right. Zurich’s more recent
towers rise up in the background.
Photo: © iStock.com/AleksandarGeorgiev
ABOUT IYP
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4
Zurich In Your Pocket
Not content with publishing more
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continents, In Your Pocket is currently
carrying out a new round of expansion
for 2015. New cities due to be pocketed
include Eindhoven in the Netherlands,
while some old favourites, such as
Budapest in Hungary and the Russian
exclave of Kaliningrad will be getting a
reboot. And there is a brand new digital
platform to look forward to: we will
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throughout April and May.
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ARRIVING BY PLANE
Zurich International Airport (ZRH) lies 13 kilometres
north of the city centre in Kloten and handles around 700
flights a day going to over 170 destinations worldwide.
You can find ATMs and switzerlandinfo desks at Arrival
1 and Arrival 2 just after you pass customs. There you can
find free copies of Zurich In Your Pocket. There is a big public
shopping area with most shops open from 08:00 - 21:00
(groceries from 06:00 - 23:00) and a free Wi-fi for the first 60
minutes, just connect your device to ’ZurichAirport’.
To get to town: The easiest and fastest way to get to and
from the airport is by train. Take one of the fast trains or slower
S-trains leaving from the underground train station near
terminals 1 and 2 - if the sign on the platform reads Zürich
HB (HB = Hauptbahnhof = main station), it’s the right train.
Up to ten trains leave an hour and the journey takes roughly
ten minutes. Tickets can be bought at the counters or at the
ticket machines (switch them to English on the first screen)
next to the stairs leading down to the platforms. A ticket for
an adult is 6.60Sfr and valid for one hour in the whole city
(3 zones). If you plan to do more travelling by public
transport, make it a 24-hour ticket for just twice the price
or consider buying a ZürichCARD (see p. 36).
If you’re running down Bahnhofstrasse to catch that train: aim for
Zurich Tourism (CM)
the big arch.
A taxi ride to central Zurich costs around 60Sfr. Official taxi
stands are just outside Arrivals 1 and 2.
Tram N°10 takes you from the airport via Oerlikon to Zurich
main station as well. The journey takes 37 minutes, same
tickets as for the trains are valid. Good option if your hotel
is in Zurich Nord.
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Zurich’s main train station, referred to by locals as HB (short
for Hauptbahnhof, say haa-bay), is right in the centre of the
city. All international and domestic trains leave and arrive
here. From the platforms just follow the herd towards the
main hall, where you will find ticket offices and the tourist
information (called Tourist Service, see p. 10). Trams, buses
and taxis leave just outside the station.
At the ticket office in the main hall you can buy train
tickets (also available at the many ticket machines), tickets
6
for public transport in Zurich and also change money. For
time tables and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch or call +41 900
300 300 (1.19Sfr/min).
ARRIVING BY BUS
Buses from other European countries arrive at the bus
station (Bus Terminal Sihlquai, E-1), two minutes walk north
from the main train station. Zurich sightseeing buses start
here as well.
ARRIVING BY CAR
The Swiss highways A1, A2, A3 and A4 lead from all
directions to Zurich and if you follow the signs to Zurich
City the city centre is quite easy to reach. But parking is
scarce and very expensive. For overnight parking you can
try to find a slot in the so-called blue zone in residential
areas - parking there is free from 19:00 - 08:00, indicate your
arrival time on your parking disk.
Driving in Switzerland is generally easy. If you’re using the
motorways you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr (available
at petrol stations and post offices). Remember that trams
always have right of way, as well as pedestrians on zebracrossings without traffic lights.
The legal alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%, which should
allow you to have roughly one glass of beer before driving.
The standard speed limit is 50km/h in urban areas,
80km/h outside towns and 120km/h on motorways.
In residential zones in Zurich, the speed limit is often
30km/h. Fines are high and yes, Switzerland has agreements
with many European countries to make sure you pay the
fine even if you have a foreign number plate. You may use
your home driving license in Switzerland as long as it is
valid - if the license is a non EU-one and in a language other
than French, English, Italian or German it is recommended
that it be accompanied by an international one.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Trains
The train network is fast, reliable and extensive. For getting
around in Switzerland, trains are definitely best - from Zurich
there are connections to all the major Swiss cities once or
twice an hour. The state owned train company is called SBB.
For time tables refer to www.sbb.ch. Tickets are sold on
vending machines (switch them to English on the first screen)
and at the counters in the main hall at Zurich main train
station. You can purchase single and return tickets. Children
up to 5 travel for free, from 6 - 16 years they pay the half-fare.
If you plan on travelling around Switzerland a lot, get a halffare card for one month for 120Sfr - and travel for half the fare
on all public transport. A convenient option could also be
the Swiss Travel Pass which gives you unlimited transport
on the whole Swiss network for 3 to 15 days (179 - 774Sfr,
available at all train stations). If you board a train without a
valid ticket, you will have to pay a fine of 90Sfr.
City transport
Zurich’s public transport network includes trams, buses,
local trains and ships on the lake and on the river. The
ticket system is fairly simple: Zurich’s cantonal network is
divided into zones. So you don’t buy tickets for a trip, but
rather for a zone. The network of the city of Zurich is one
zone, zone number 110 (see map page 66). Tickets are valid
in the chosen zones on all kinds of transport. For getting
around the city (zone 110) a day pass valid for 24 hours
will cost you 8.60Sfr, a single ticket valid for 1 hour 4.30Sfr.
Children up to 5 travel for free, 6 - 16 year-olds pay the socalled half-fare (which actually is 3Sfr). These tickets can be
purchased at the ticket machines you find at almost every
stop (most of them now take credit cards). Be aware that
Uetliberg and the airport are not within zone 110. If you
get caught without a valid ticket, it’s 90Sfr. For all questions
about public transport, get advice at VBZ Ticketerias,
situated at larger tram stops throughout the city.
Another option is the ZürichCARD (24Sfr/24hrs,
48Sfr/72hrs), which is valid for zone 110 and between
the airport and the city, as well as giving you free entry to
many museums. The Zurich card is available at most ticket
machines, VBZ Ticketerias and at the Tourist Information.
See p. 36 for more infromation.
Public transport in Zurich runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30.
There are night buses in the nights Fri/Sat and Sat/Sun to
all parts of the town. Most of them start at Bellevue and
pass by Central and Escher-Wyss Platz. They require a 5Sfr
supplement to any valid ticket. Send a text message from
your mobile with the word ’NZ’ to 988 to purchase the
supplement by phone.
Cutting-edge and vintage tram technology - occasionally both are
PD
in service.
ZÜRI ROLLT - BIKES FOR FREE
Bikes to borrow for free - all you need is an ID and 20Sfr as
deposit. The Velostation Süd is in containers close to track
3, just outside the station. The northern one is close to
track 18.QE-1, Hauptbahnhof / Velostation Nord & Süd,
tel. +41 43 288 34 45, www.zuerirollt.ch. Nord open
daily 08:00 - 21:30, Süd 08:00 - 19:30, Sat & Sun closed.
CAR RENTAL
All you need to rent a car in Switzerland is a credit card, an
ID and a valid licence.
AVISQC-3, Gartenhofstrasse 17, 8Werd, tel. +41 44
296 87 87, www.avis.ch. Open 07:30 - 18:30, Sat 07:30 12:15, 13:15 - 16:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.
TAXIS
There are 1550 licenced taxis in Zurich and in general
they are clean, safe, reliable - and expensive. It‘s usually
easy to get one, even in rush hours. The city sets the
following maximum prices for taxis: initial fee 8Sfr, 5Sfr
per kilometre, 80Sfr per hour. The actual fees have to be
displayed on the door of the car. Taxi drivers have to and
usually do use their metres, some companies allow you
to negotiate a price in advance (the metre still has to be
used as a control). You‘ll find taxis at official taxi stands.
You can hail them from the streets as well. The ridesharing
service Uber also operates in Zurich. You can order their
drivers over an app on your smartphone. Fares usually
are significantly cheaper than standard taxi fares (initial
fee 3-6Sfr, 1.35 - 3.40Sfr per kilometre, 0.30 - 0.50Sfr per
minute). Find more information on www.uber.com. If in
doubt stick with the following big companies (they both
have smartphone apps for ordering them too):
11.01
NEW: graphic
watches of
Switzerland.
11.15
11.30
11.45
TAXI 444Qtel. +41 44 444 44 44, www.taxi444.ch.
TAXI 7X7Qtel. +41 44 777 77 77, www.7x7.ch.
BICYCLES
Many locals in Zurich get around town by bicycle. For the
flat areas around Lake Zurich and the river, a bike is ideal.
www.partime.ch
SWISS
MADE
April - May 2015
7
City Basics
City Basics
DRINKING
BASIC DATA
The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer and
18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for beer are
the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh) and the 0.5 litre
Grosses (gro-sus). The long-standing medium-scale brewers
are increasingly getting competition from innovative local
brewers. Check out Sprint, Paul or Appenzeller for instance.
Swiss wines are also not to be underestimated. While the
best may come from further south, you’ll find some very good
Blauburgunders (red) and Riesling Sylvaners (white) from the
Zurich region. Traditional Swiss spirits are fruit brandies,
cherry (Kirsch) and pear (Williams) being the most common.
Area
Switzerland: 41285 sq km
Zurich (Canton): 1729 sq km
Zurich (City): 92 sq km
Population
Switzerland: 8 million
Zurich (city): 405,000
Official languages
Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh
Zurich: German
ELECTRICITY
Local time
Central European (GMT+1h)
CUSTOMS
Switzerland is not member of the European customs
union. On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to
buy real tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling
from and to Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight
restrictions on the goods you can take free of customs duty
from Switzerland to your country. For EU-countries the
following customs and tax allowances apply (for other
countries check with the according customs authorities):
Electricity in Switzerland is 230 V, 50 Hz AC. Plug sockets
are round and take three round pins - they can take
Europlugs with two pins. If you are coming from the US, UK
or Ireland you definitely need an adaptor - as well as from
many other countries.
HEALTH & EMERGENCY
Emergency telephone numbers (operators usually speak
basic English):
Ambulance: 144
Police: 117
Firebrigade: 118
If you need medical attention, there are several walk-in
medical centres, like Permanence at the main railway station
(facing Bahnhofstrasse), where you just pull a ticket and wait
your turn (+41 44 215 44 44, Bahnhofplatz 15, open 07:00 22:00), Notfall Zürich 3 (+41 43 811 81 18, Zypressenstrasse
39, open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, closed Sun) or mediX
(+41 44 298 50 50, Badenerstrasse 41, open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun
08:00 - 18:00). Zurich also has three public hospitals with
emergency units which are open 24 hours a day for urgent
matters. You can just walk in, but expect to wait:
USEFUL ZURICH APPS
A pleasant old-town spot under St. Peter.
ZIYP
Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100
(20) cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250 gr (50) of smoking
tobacco.
Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits
with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer.
Other goods: Max value of all goods: 430 euros for air
travellers and 300 euros for other travellers.
Goods over these limits must be declared when entering a
EU-country, additional taxes and VAT may apply.
In Switzerland there is duty free shopping for arriving
passengers as well.
8
The free app ZVV-Fahrplan provides real time doorto-door timetable information for all public transport
within the ZVV network in the canton of Zurich. It also
tells you where the nearest stop is, and how to get from
A to B. And it’s available in English. If you install the free
app of the Swiss Federal Railways SBB Mobile, you can
buy tickets as well. (App store and android market)
ZüriPlan is a free app by the city of Zurich, offering
a very exact map of Zurich with an integrated route
planner for pedestrians and cyclists. The app is in
German, but quite self-explanatory. On the downside,
not all the maps are stored on your phone. But the parts
of the maps which have been used are saved for one
week. (App Store only)
LANGUAGE SMARTS
SMART PHONING
Here are some typical Swiss German words - it will be
always appreciated if you use a few Swiss words. The ‘r‘
in Swiss German is rolled, the ‘ch’ is pronounced like in
the Scottish loch. Mind your throat.
If you want to use your smartphone in Switzerland, you
might consider buying a local prepaid card. This way your
phone will be able to guide you through the city without
clocking up sky-high roaming costs. As an extra plus,
the In Your Pocket mobile website (m.inyourpocket.com)
will work perfectly too. A prepaid card is only an option
if your phone is not sim-locked. You’ll need an ID to get
a card, which itself usually costs around 20Sfr.
Here we list some of the prepaid cards, their prices and
where to get them (rates are in Sfr per minute, as of
March 2015).
Hello (formal)
Grüezi
(groo-e-tsi)
Goodbye (formal)
Adieu
(as in French)
Thank you
Merci
(mersi)
Sorry!
Entschuldigung!
(ent-shooldi-goong)
Excuse me!
Exgüsi!
(ex-gewsi)
Switzerland
D’Schwyz
(t’shviiits)
Cheers!
Zum Wohl!
(tsoom vol)
Zurich
Züri
(tsoori)
EMERGENCY UNIT UNIVERSITÄTSSPITAL
QG-2, Rämistrasse 100, 8ETH / Universitätsspital,
tel. +41 44 255 11 11. Open 24 / 7.
EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL TRIEMLI
QBirmensdorferstrasse 497, 8Triemli, tel. +41 44 466
11 11. Open 24 / 7.
EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL WAID
QK-4, Tièchestrasse 99, 8Bucheggplatz, tel. +41 44
366 20 55. Open 24 / 7.
Pharmacies
Pharmacies (Apotheke in German) on night duty are open 24
hours, a sign on every pharmacy’s door will tell you where the
next pharmacy on duty is. You can also call +41 900 55 35 55
(1.50 Sfr/min) which will connect you to the next pharmacy
on duty. The pharmacy at main station (Bahnhofplatz 15,
+41 44 225 42 42) is always open until midnight, the one at
Bellevue always 24 / 7 (Theaterstrasse 14, +41 44 266 62 22).
INTERNET / WI-FI
In the era of laptops and smartphones internet cafés are
not as necessary as they were. What you really need are
hotspots. Many cafés and bars in Zurich have free Wi-fi
for their customers. You will also find the commercial
Wi-fi providers Monzoon and Swisscom all over the city
(accessible with a credit card). Another possibility to stay
connected with your smartphone during your stay in
Switzerland is to buy a prepaid sim card for your phone.
LANGUAGE
Switzerland has four official languages: German (spoken
by 64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%).
Zurich lies in the German speaking part of the country,
where people speak a German dialect, so called Swiss
German or Schwyzerdütsch. Be it among friends, at work
or when dealing with the authorities, people speak dialect.
However, Swiss people use standard German, so-called
Hochdeutsch, when writing and speaking at school.
calls
company domestic
data where to buy
calls
abroad*
OK.- mobile 0.15/0.22 0.15/0.20 8.50Sfr/500MB** k kiosks
shops /
Yallo 0.35 0.15 5Sfr/150MB** migros
post offices
m-budget 0.28 0.28 4.80/150 MB** migros
mobile
Lebara
migros, coop,
0.25
0.19 4.90/120MB**
simply
post offices
0.30;
max
sunrise free 0.6
1Sfr
per
day sunrise shops 0.9 per call
*to most European countries incl. UK and USA, landlines
** must be bought in advance and used within 1 month
MAIL & PHONE
Post: Swiss post is generally reliable, and also can take care
of all your financial transactions. There are post offices all
over the city - the Sihlpost close to the main train station is
the one with the longest opening hours (see below).
Dialling: Switzerland’s calling code is +41. Zurich’s code is
(0)44 or (0)43. We list the country code before all telephone
numbers. Of course you only have to use this if you are
dialling from abroad. If you are already in Switzerland,
just ignore the +41 prefix, dial 0 and then the nine-digit
number.
SIHLPOST Zurich‘s central post office, open until late.
Take a ticket and wait for your turn. QD-2, Europaallee 11,
8Sihlpost, tel. +41 848 888 888. Open 06:30 - 22:30,
Sat 06:30 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:30.
MONEY
The currency and legal tender of Switzerland is the Swiss
franc (Sfr), which is divided in 100 rappen. There are
banknotes of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1000 francs. The coins
in use are 1,2 and 5 francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and 50 rappen.
You can change your money at the SBB change at the main
railway station or any of the banks. Or just withdraw Swiss
francs with your Maestro or your Plus card from one of the
ubiquitous ATM’s. Credit cards are widely accepted - both
in shops and restaurants. Service is always included. At a
restaurant however, if you were happy with the service,
leave 5-10% of the bill as a tip.
April - May 2015
9
City Basics
NATIONAL HOLIDAYS
MARKET VALUES
January 1
January 2
April 3, 2015
April 6, 2015
April 13, 2015
May 1
May 14, 2015
May 25, 2015
August 1
September 12, 2015
December 25
The Swiss national bank has abandoned its policy of
tying the Swiss Franc to the Euro. Currently the exchange
rate is quite stable at around 1.06 Sfr to the Euro.
New Year
Berchtold Day (local)
Good Friday
Easter Monday
Sechseläuten (Zurich only)
Labour Day (Zurich only)
Ascension
Whit Monday
National Holiday
Knabenschiessen (Zurich only)
Christmas
POLITICS
The Swiss like to consider their country the home of
direct democracy and citizens here are regularly asked
to take a stand on national issues. The two chambers of
parliament are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting
system and the seven-member government appointed
by parliament always includes representatives of all of
the four or five major parties. Switzerland is a federal
republic consisting of 26 cantons, once sovereign states
which retain some independence and have their own
constitutions, parliaments and governments. Bern is
the capital and the seat of the parliament and the
federal authorities. Due to the understanding of political
independence many locals favour, Switzerland is not a
member of the EU.
Loaf of bread
Cup of coffee
0.3 litre of beer (bar)
Public transport ticket, 1 hr
Packet of cigarettes
McDonald‘s Big Mac
2-5Sfr
4-7Sfr
4-7Sfr
4.30Sfr
8Sfr
6.50Sfr
(€1.85 - 4.70)
(€3.70 - 6.55)
(€3.70 - 6.55)
(€4)
(€7.50)
(€6.05)
RELIGION
The Swiss are traditionally either Roman Catholic (42%)
or Protestant (35%). The largest (and quite new) minority
religious community are Muslims (4%). Zurich is traditionally
Protestant, due to the ardent reformator Zwingli who put
an end to partying here in the 16th century. But his grip has
loosened somewhat in recent decades.
SWISS CHAMP
SAFETY
DIVEMASTER
SPECTRA
Zurich is a safe city, and in fact there is no no-go area, even
for women at night. Be on guard against pickpockets just as
in any European city.
TOURIST SERVICE
Zurich’s Tourism’s Tourist service is conveniently located
in the main hall of the main train station. This is a onestop solution for all the information you might be
missing - and much more. For personal advice at the
counter, take a ticket and wait your turn. There are
some iPads for you to browse and check out the many
offers like tours and venues and you can pick up leaflets
and a city map. But they don’t just have advice, they
also offer the following services.
They...
• will book city tours and excursions
• sell tickets for public transport, incl. the Swiss Travel
Pass
• sell the ZürichCARD (see p. 36 for more infos)
• can make hotel reservations
• also sell tickets for events and museums, souvenirs
and gift vouchers
Last but not least you can always pick up the latest
copy of Zurich In Your Pocket here - for free, of course.
QMain hall of the main train station. Open 08:30 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
10 Zurich In Your Pocket
EXPLORER JACKET
Hop on a boat here, or just take in the view: Bürkliplatz.
FRAGRANCE
AM
SMOKING
FUNCTIONALITY IS PART OF OUR FAMILY
The legal age for smoking is 16. Smoking in public buildings
and transport is illegal. However, restaurants and bars are
allowed to have a separate smoking room (fumoir).
Flagship Store Genève | Rue de Marché 2
Flagship Store Zürich | Rennweg 58
Brand Store Brunnen | Bahnhofstrasse 3
VISAS
For a stay of up to three months, many foreigners simply
need a passport or an ID card to enter Switzerland. Even
though not a member of the European Union, Switzerland
is a member of the Schengen Agreement. As a result a
Schengen visa is valid for Switzerland as well. Always check
these details with a Swiss embassy or consulate.
MAKERS OF THE ORIGINAL SWISS ARMY KNIFE | VICTORINOX.COM
History
Spring cycling tour
XVI Century
Huldrych Zwingli, priest at the Grossmünster, was a major
critic of mercenary service. But he had a lot more to say and
became the initiator of the Reformation in Zurich from
1520 on. The Reformation meant an end to all frivolous
behaviour - drinking, prostitution and actually most fun
was forbidden or strictly regulated.
AN AFTERNOON IN THE SADDLE: CYCLING UP THE RIVER SIHL
you - you’re at Allmend, a recreational area used by runners,
cyclists and dogs walking their owners. There is a kiosk if
you need to stock up on refreshments.
Keep following the path on the left bank of the river (facing
upstream). Now you’re in Sihltal, the Sihl valley, which is
peppered with traces of its industrial past. Textile mills were
built along the river in the 19th century, founding a major
industry. The ride along the river takes you on a gradual
transition from the city into the wild. And don't worry:
the climb up the valley is very gentle and you can almost
always avoid the main roads.
NAPOLEON CAUSES A BOTHER
XVI - XVIII Century
During the 16th and 17th Centuries Zurich’s wealth and
influence increased. Among the intellectuals of the time
were the educational reformer Heinrich Pestalozzi or the
painter Johann Heinrich Füssli, whose work you’ll find today
in the Kunsthaus. In 1798 Zurich lost its independence as
Napoleon took over, transforming the Swiss Confederacy
into the Helvetic Republic for a brief five years.
Zurich’s somewhat grim reformator Huldrych Zwingli.
ZIYP
RAILWAYS AND A STRIKE
100BC - X Century
Around 15 BC the Romans established a military base at the
site of today’s Lindenhof where you can find a copy of the
Roman tomb stone mentioning Turicum, the word from
which Zurich derives. Roman rule ended around 400 AD
and nobody really has any idea what went on in Zurich for
the next few centuries. One change was the arrival of the
Germanic tribe of the Allemanni, who brought with them
the language that was to become today’s Swiss German
(Schwyzerdüütsch).
XIX - XX Century
Modern-day Switzerland was founded in 1848 as a
federation. The year before, the first railway line in Switzerland
was opened. Railways were the business Alfred Escher was
in. He dominated Zurich and Swiss politics for the next few
decades. His statue can be found just in front of the main
train station. Switzerland remained neutral during the First
World War and was refuge to the artists who started the
Dada movement in Zurich. The war exacerbated the poverty
of the working classes and in 1918 a socialist committee
called a general strike. Many of the committee’s demands
were later fulfilled, though not the demand for the right of
women to vote, which was not introduced until 1971!
ZURICH IN WOMEN’S HANDS
THE RÉDUIT AND THE WAR
XII - XIV Century
In the 13th Century Zurich became an
imperial city, answering only to the
emperor of the Holy Roman Empire.
Zurich was now headed by a woman the abbess of the Fraumünster abbey.
In 1336 an uprising of Zurich’s
craftsmen made the newly founded guilds the foundation
of Zurich’s political structure. Many of the guild houses, still
in use today, are now also restaurants like the Zunfthaus Zur
Schmiden or the Zunfthaus am Neumarkt (emblem of the
guild of the shoemakers on the left).
XX Century
During most of the Second World War Switzerland, formally
neutral, was totally surrounded by the Axis powers, making
it difficult to import food and other goods. General Guisan
prepared for a military attack by literally hollowing out the
Alps, envisaging a guerrilla war from the mountains, the socalled réduit strategy.
ROMANS AND
SCHWYZERDÜÜTSCH
ZURICH GOES SWISS…
AND PROTESTANT
XIV - XVI Century
In 1351 Zurich joined ’Switzerland’, which had existed as a
treaty since 1291. This however didn’t stop the city waging
war against fellow cantons, such as against Schwyz. Soon
the city ruled over lands around Lake Zurich and north
all the way to the river Rhine.
ZURICH TODAY
XX - XXI Century
After the war Switzerland’s economy
boomed and mass immigration from
Southern Europe set in, while culturally
and politically Switzerland remained very
conservative. In 1968 and 1980 youth
movements clashed with police, but
also brought new cultural life to Zurich. Today Zurich is
still a major financial centre and has lost the conservative
reputation. It has become popular as a place to live for highlyskilled workers from across Europe. This has made the lack of
affordable apartments one of the major topics in Zurich today.
Zurich Tourism (MR)
Cycling is a great way to get out under the sun and discover a
little more of Zurich and surroundings. And bikes are even free
to borrow! Our suggested route follows the river Sihl, all the
way to Langenberg Wildnispark, a wildlife park in a protected
forest.
Grab a bike, pack a picnic and off you go! On a bicycle,
every scenic spot in and around Zurich is as close as a few
turns of the pedals. And unlike when traveling by bus or
train, you won't miss one breath of that spring air. Rather
than taking to the hills, we suggest following the river Sihl
for around an hour (around 12 km), from the main train
station to Langenberg Wildnispark just outside Zurich. You
don't even have to rent a bike – borrow one for free from
the provisional bike station Züri rollt just outside the main
train station near track 3 (see p. 7 for details).
Roam the forest and see bears,
wolves and beavers
From the station, ride down Kasernenstrasse, cross the river
at the first bridge (left) and turn right just after it, following
the marked bike route n°94 (dark-red arrows, yellow bike
icons on the road surface) on Gessnerallee. The route in the
city is often on pedestrian paths, cycling is permitted here
if you see the markings, but give way to pedestrians. Follow
the path all along the river, at the large crossroads use the
underground passage and keep following the footpath.
Soon you will have one of the architectural sins of the 70ies
above you: the motorway viaduct is built literally above the
river! It's not very romantic for cycling, but it's only for a few
minutes. And then suddenly you have greenery all around
The marked path crosses the river a few times, then in the
village of Adliswil take the pedestrian bridge across the river
and use the underground passage at Sihlau train station.
See that wooded hill ahead? It’s Langenberg wildlife
park! On Buttenaustrasse, turn right into Finsterrütistrasse
and then left into Albisstrasse (we recommend riding on
the pavement here) where you’ll find the entrance to the
wildlife park on the left. Leaving your bike there, you can
roam the forest and see indigenous wildlife like bears,
wolves or beavers in enclosures – if you’re patient enough.
The gentle ride back to Zurich is easy - if you are too
tired, you can put your bike and yourself on a train back
to the city.
USEFUL DETAILS
SIHLWALD WILDNISPARK
Sihlwald is a forest left to its own devices with lots of
wildlife, some in enclosures and accessible round the
clock. Restaurant on site.Qwww.wildnispark.ch, tel.
+41 44 722 55 22
ZÜRI ROLLT – pick up your free bikes here, all the
details on page 7.
MAPS/SIGNPOSTING
Official cycling paths are signposted with dark red
signs, our route follows one for most of the way. You
can buy a map with all the cycling routes or check
the website map.veloland.ch or download the free
app SchweizMobil which gives you access to maps
(requires you to be online).
TRANSPORTING BIKES ON THE TRAIN
You can transport your bike on most trains, look out
for the bike icon next to the carriage doors. Bikes can
usually be placed in the entrance area. You will need
to get a ticket for the bike from the ticket machines as
well as a ticket for yourself. No bikes in trains from and
to Sihlwald from 06:00 - 08:00 and 16:00 - 19:00, as in
all S-trains by the way.
April - May 2015
13
Culture & Events
Culture & Events
Zurich offers a rich bouquet of culture, with its opera and
ballet of (at least) European renown and a packed programme
of excellent classical concerts in the Tonhalle and elsewhere.
Pop and rock stars almost always stop in Zurich when touring
the continent. Zurich also has a vibrant theatre scene, but
unfortunately only few productions in English.
We list the most important venues in the venue list and
refer to them only by name in the event list. If the event
takes place in a less usual venue, we indicate the full
address in the preview. Events are listed in the categories
classical music, exhibitions, festivals, rock, pop & jazz
concerts and theatre & comedy. Within the sections it’s
ordered by date.
Of course there are way more events than we can list. We
recommend checking out www.zueritipp.ch for more events.
CLASSICAL MUSIC
EXHIBITIONS
05.04 SUNDAY
PRAGUE FESTIVAL ORCHESTRA:
CARMINA BURANA & BOLÉRO
Conductor: Rimma Sushanskaya, choir: Prague Festival
Choir. Works by Carl Orff, Alexander Borodin & Maurice
Ravel.QTonhalle. Concert starts 17:00, 45 - 135Sfr.
20.02 FRIDAY  10.05 SUNDAY
MONET, GAUGUIN, VAN GOGH…
JAPANESE INSPIRATIONS
Japanese art is of fundamental importance to the
development of European Modernism. For the first time
in over 25 years, a comprehensive exhibition examines the
phenomenon known as ‘Japonisme’. The focus is on the
period from 1860 to 1910 - the early phase and heyday of
Japanese art’s reception in France. Artists such as Monet,
Gauguin and van Gogh, Bonnard and Degas depicted
imported Japanese artworks and everyday objects in
their own paintings, adopted Japanese imagery and
internalized the visual idiom of the Japanese woodcut.
The presentation comprises over 300 prestigious exhibits,
including paintings and a representative selection of
Japanese woodcuts by Hokusai, Hiroshige, Utamaro and
others.QG-4, Kunsthaus, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus,
tel. +41 44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. Open 10:00 18:00, Wed & Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed. Admission
22/17Sfr.
ZURICH VENUE LIST
HALLENSTADION Zurich’s biggest concert and
event hall. Tickets: www.ticketcorner.ch and tel. +41
900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min).QO-2, Wallisellenstrasse
45, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, www.hallenstadion.ch.
KAUFLEUTEN The Kaufleuten Festsaal hosts
mostly blues, soul, rock and jazz concerts. Tickets:
www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min)
QD-3, Pelikanplatz, 8Sihlstrasse, www.kaufleuten.com.
KOMPLEX 457 The city’s third largest concert hall, it
mostly hosts rock concerts. Tickets: www.starticket.ch, +41
900 325 325 (1.19Sfr/min) or www.ticketcorner.ch, +41
900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min).QHohlstrasse 457, 8Kappeli, tel. +41 44 500 00 60, www.komplex457.ch.
KONGRESSHAUSQE-5, Gotthardstrasse 5, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. +41 44 206 36 36, www.kongresshaus.ch.
MOODS Zurich’s best address for jazz, funk, soul,
blues and world music. Tickets: www.starticket.ch, +41
900 325 325 (1.19Sfr/min).QK-6, Schiffbaustrasse 6,
8Schiffbau, tel. +41 44 276 80 00, www.moods.ch.
ROTE FABRIK Centre for alternative culture: concerts,
theater, parties and more. Tickets: www.starticket.ch,
tel. +41 900 325 325 (1.19Sfr/min).QSeestrasse 395,
8Post Wollishofen, www.rotefabrik.ch.
TONHALLE The Tonhalle is the place for classical music in Zurich. Tickets: www.tonhalle-orchester.ch, +41
44 206 34 34 (10:00 - 18:00)QE-5, Claridenstrasse 7,
8Bürkliplatz, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.
VOLKSHAUS Concerts and other events, hall hosts
up to 1600 people. Tickets: www.ticketcorner.ch, +41
900 800 800 or www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 325
(both 1.19Sfr/min).QC-3, Stauffacherstrasse 60,
8Helvetiaplatz, www.volkshaus.ch.
X-TRA Hall for mid-size concerts and parties on Limmatplatz. Tickets: www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800
800.QD-1, Limmatstrasse 118, 8Limmatplatz.
The Tonhalle orchestra in full action.
PD
SECHSELÄUTEN
10.04 FRIDAY
GRIGORY SOKOLOV
Piano: Grigory Sokolov. Works by J. S. Bach, L. van
Beethoven, Franz Schubert.QTonhalle. Concert starts
19:30, 24 - 112Sfr.
02.05 SATURDAY & 03.05 SUNDAY
HAGEN QUARTET - MOZART CYCLE
The Hagen Quartet plays the most famous quartets by
W.A. Mozart in four concerts.QTonhalle. Cycle I starts Sat
18:00, cycle II Sat 21:00, cycle III Sun 11:15, cycle IV Sun
19:30, 20 - 75Sfr.
05.05 TUESDAY
ZURICH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA
Conductor: Willi Zimmermann, piano: Fazil Say. Works by
Dmitri Shostakovich and L. van Beethoven.QTonhalle.
Concert starts 19:30, 16 - 105Sfr.
19.05 TUESDAY
ZURICH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA
Conductor, violin & viola: Julian Rachlin. Works by J. S. Bach &
W. A. Mozart.QTonhalle. Concert starts 19:30, 16 - 105Sfr.
Winter lasts too long in many places and Zurich is
no exception. The Zürcher (Zurich’s citizens) have their
own solution to this problem: winter is officially chased
away with the traditional spring festival Sechseläuten
(Sächsilüüte in Swiss German). 26 Zurich guilds (Zünfte)
parade through the city centre towards Bellevue, where
the festival climaxes at exactly 18:00 when a snowman-like
figure called Böögg (see photo above) is burned. When the
Böögg’s head finally explodes the season of fog and cold
feet is officially over (though there are no guarantees).
Even if considered by some Zürcher as a rather oldfashioned and snooty event, the Sechseläuten is
a spectacle you shouldn’t miss if you happen to be in
Zurich. Thousands of participants, tens of thousands of
spectators, hundreds of horses, dozens of horse-drawn
wagons, bands and even a few camels on a parade in
the middle of Zurich - makes a change to the standard
rush hour. The parade is free, in some areas there are
seats for which tickets are required.
15.04 WEDNESDAY  17.04 FRIDAY
TONHALLE ORCHESTRA
Conductor: Giovanni Antonini, soprano: Anna Prohaska.
Works by Luigi Boccherini, W. A. Mozart, Joseph Haydn and
Franz Schubert.QTonhalle. Concerts start 19:30, 25 - 125Sfr.
22.04 WEDNESDAY  24.04 FRIDAY
TONHALLE ORCHESTRA
& HORNROH MODERN ALPHORN QUARTET
Conductor: Kent Nagano, Hornroh Modern Alphorn
Quartet. Works by Georg Friedrich Haas and Anton
Bruckner.QTonhalle. Concerts start 19:30, 25 - 125Sfr.
Zurich Tourism (BM)
Do-it-yourself design by Enzo Mari: Sedia One Chair.
PD
DO IT YOURSELF DESIGN
Making it yourself—be it a chair, a lamp or a table—
is definitely a trend! Modifying and personalising
furniture and design objects offers an alternative to
mass consumption and the unsustainable nature of
many products. With the rediscovery of handicraft and
the dissemination of designs and instructions on the
internet there is a growing interest in making things
oneself. The exhibition spotlights the background
to the ‘do-it-yourself’ phenomenon and asks about
its significance for the design process. A generously
dimensioned workshop is temporarily included in the
exhibition, allowing visitors to contribute newly built
design objects to Do It Yourself Design.QK-6, Museum
für Gestaltung - Schaudepot, Pfingstweidstrasse 96,
8Toni-Areal, www.museum-gestaltung.ch. Open
10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed.
The festival originally celebrated the first day of
summer working hours which ended with the toll
of the church bells at six o’clock. Literally Sechseläuten
means ‘The six o’clock ringing of the bells’. The guilds
made the labour laws at the time, and though they
have lost their central importance, one says it still makes
it easier to do business in Zurich if you are a member.
The Sechseläuten schedule for 2015:
Sunday April 12, 14:30
Children’s parade (Start at Bürkliplatz - Quaibrücke
- Limmatquai - Rudolf-Brun-Brücke - Bahnhofstrasse Bürkliplatz - Fraumünsterstrasse - Stadthausquai)
Monday April 13, 15:00
Parade of the Guilds (Bahnhofstrasse - Bürkliplatz
- Bahnhofstrasse - Rudolf Brun Brücke - Limmatquai Bellevue)
18:00
Burning of the Böögg on Sechseläutenplatz (Bellevue)
afterwards The public grills sausages on the fire
April - May 2015
15
Culture & Events
CINEMAS
Zurich has 16 cinemas, many of them with more than
one screen and the large ones with up to 12 screens.
Traditionally films in Switzerland are shown in their
original language with German and French subtitles.
But the big multiplex cinemas that have displaced
some of the smaller ones in the last two decades have
started to show more and more movies dubbed in
German. In the best case they show two versions of the
same movie: one in original language and one dubbed.
In smaller cinemas you can still watch all movies in the
original language - lots of them in English of course.
They are marked with the letters Edf in the programmes
(English with German (Deutsch) and French subtitles) a D (capital) indicates the movie is spoken in German.
Check the daily newspapers or www.zueritipp.ch for
programme and screening times.
Tickets cost somewhere between 15 and 21Sfr,
depending on the movie and the category you choose.
On Mondays tickets are 13Sfr in all cinemas on all seats.
Culture & Events
SWISS PRESS PHOTO 15
Swiss Press Photo 15 presents the best work of Swiss
press photographers in 2014, simultaneously recalling the
year’s events.QE-2, Landesmuseum, Museumsstrasse
2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 218 65 11,
www.nationalmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu
10:00 - 19:00, closed Mon. Admission 10/8Sfr.
FESTIVALS
16.04 THURSDAY  26.04 SUNDAY
JAZZ AND BLUES FESTIVAL
Smooth jazz, dixie, swing and blues bands from all over
Europe and the US entertain the crowd at the Zurich
Jazz and Blues Festival.QSchützenhaus Albisgüetli,
Uetlibergstrasse 341, 8Albisgüetli, www.albisguetli.ch.
Tickets: www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/
min).
OPERA & BALLET
ARTHOUSE MOVIE
There are six Arthouse cinemas in Zurich, all situated in
and around the Niederdorf part of the old town, most
of them in old buildings with charm and style. The
Arthouse Movie we list is the only one with more than
one screen, showing studio and independent movies
rather than blockbusters, just as the other Arthouse
cinemas.QF-4, Nägelihof 4, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41
44 250 55 10, www.arthouse.ch.
RIFFRAFF
The RiffRaff is a lovely cinema with four screens just
off Langstrasse - arthouse movies in original language,
which is not necessarily English, are usually on the
menu. If in doubt, ask at the cashier‘s. They also have
two bars perfect for a drink before or after the movie.
QC-1, Neugasse 57, 8Limmatplatz, tel. +41 44 444
22 00, www.riffraff.ch.
TICKETS
Most venues sell tickets on the internet which you can
print out yourself on any printer or display on your
smartphone (see venue list for websites). However, if
it’s more convenient for you to actually get tickets (and
advice) at a counter, these are your options:
• Tourist Service by Zurich Tourism, main hall of the
main train station (see p. 10). They sell tickets of the
major ticketing companies starticket and ticketino.
• SBB travel agency, ticket counter. Located in the
main hall of Zurich’s main train station just next to
the train ticket counters, the SBB travel agency sells
all kinds of event tickets. Just pull a ticket for the event
counter and wait your turn.
25.04 SATURDAY
TITO & TARANTULA
Mexican Tito Larriva founded the band Tito & Tarantula in
1992. They appeared in 1996 in the Tarantino movie From
Dusk Till Dawn which brought them worldwide fame. Look
forward to dirty, Mexican-inspired desert rock with loads of
guitar!QMoods. Concert starts 20:30, 40Sfr.
30.04 THURSDAY
J. COLE
US-rapper J. Cole’s latest work 2014 Forest Hills Drive became the best-selling hip hop album in 2014. He is now on
tour with his friends Bas, Cozz and Omen.QKomplex 457.
Concert starts 20:00, 55Sfr.
30.04 THURSDAY
ORQUESTA BUENA VISTA SOCIAL CLUB
FEAT. OMARA PORTUONDO
The pride of Cuban music tradition one last time together
on stage with the original singer Omara Portuondo. It’s their
farewell tour! A firework of son, Cuban jazz and cha cha cha.
QKongresshaus. Concert starts 20:00, 60-110Sfr.
17.05 SUNDAY
SOPHIE HUNGER
She is the rising star in the Swiss singer/songwriter sky:
heart-touching songs, melancholic melodies and an
authentic voice have brought her a lot of success - which
also guarantees a remarkable concert night.QX-tra.
Concert starts at 21:00, 50Sfr.
Bursting with passion: Lucia di Lammermoor opera, on in April.
Suzanne Schwiertz
ZURICH OPERA & BALLET
The Zurich Opera is a magnificent building near the lake
shore built in 1891 by Austrian architects Ferdinand Fellner
and Hermann Helmer. Check out the programme on
their website. Plays are usually with German and English
subtitles. The shows of the Zurich Ballet Company directed
by Christian Spuck take place here too.QF-5, Opernhaus,
Falkenstrasse 1, 8Opernhaus / Stadelhofen, tel. +41 44
268 66 66, www.opernhaus.ch.
ROCK, POP AND JAZZ
CONCERTS
For more venues with live music, see our box ‘live music’
on p. 33.
09.04 THURSDAY
THE PAINS OF BEING PURE AT HEART
The songs of this New York-based indie band are often
simple and modest - but obviously written with a big heart.
They’re currently on tour with their latest album Days of
Abandon.QRote Fabrik. Concert starts 20:30, 25Sfr.
21.05 THURSDAY
CHRIS DE BURGH
The Irish singer Chris de Burgh has sold more than 45
million records over three decades. Now he is on tour
with his latest album The Hands of Man.QKongresshaus.
Concert starts 20:00, 90-150Sfr.
21.05 THURSDAY
THE BRAND NEW HEAVIES
Funk, soul, disco and r&b, deep bass lines, accented horns
and lushly textured drum patterns are still the hallmark of
the The Brand New Heavies - after more than two decades
on stage. On tour with singer Dawn Joseph.QKaufleuten.
Concert starts 20:00, 60 - 85Sfr.
THEATRE & COMEDY
INTERNATIONAL COMEDY CLUB
The International Comedy Club brings English-language
stand-up comedy to Zurich. Most of the shows take place
in the Mascotte club, a mid-sized venue at Bellevue.
Tickets around 40/35Sfr at www.ticketcorner.ch. Shows
start at 20:00. Qwww.internationalcomedyclub.ch.
17.4 Friday
Rob Deering
28.4 Tuesday Alan Davies (takes place at Volkshaus)
15.5 Friday
Relax, enjoy and lose track of time
above the rooftops of Zurich
Entspannen, geniessen, Zeit vergessen
über den Dächern von Zürich
AQUA-SPA-RESORTS AG
Thermalbad & Spa Zürich
Brandschenkestrasse 150, 8002 Zürich
Tel. 044 205 96 50
www.thermalbad-zuerich.ch
Stephen K. Amos
April - May 2015
17
Unexpected
Highend
Couples
Lads & Lasses
On the cheap
Local
Quick picks
Restaurants
Eat
Drink
Do
Elisaburg (p. 22) isn't about runof-the-mill Italian cooking. Most of
their distinctive dishes have their
origins in Sicily – and some truly are
culinary revelations. With the low-key
backdrop, this just the sort of mix
locals love.
It's called The International
(p. 30) – but this new bar with its
impressive range of craft brews
and microbrews gives you the
opportunity to try dozens of Swiss
beers, some from the country's
more remote corners and some
truly local ones.
Browsing through titbits
and treasures at the
Kanzlei fleamarket
(p. 37) is a prototypical
Saturday morning for a Zurich local
– especially if it’s followed by a large
café latte in one of the happening
bars around Helvetiaplatz.
Zurich is plastered with Turkish
takeaways – one of the best is New
Point (Langstrasse 206, C-1). Here
you’ll get a good kebab, falafel or
whatever almost around the clock.
Cheap, fast, friendly.
For really cheap drinks, go to
BQM (Leonhardstrasse 34, F-2), a
students’ bar in the main building
of the Swiss Federal Institute of
Technology ETH (just a 5-minute
walk from Central). With a beer at
4.20Sfr and cocktails at 9.80Sfr this
is definitely one of the cheapest
places in town - but closed on
weekends!
Two of Zurich's major
landmarks are free to visit:
the mediaeval churches
Grossmünster and
Fraumünster (p. 34). Both have
magnificent stained glass windows by
artists such as Chagall, elegant Gothic
arches and grim little faces looking
down from the masonry. There is a small
fee for going up the Grossmünster tower.
The one-time arsenal
Zeughauskeller (p. 28)
is a great place for large
beers and generous
portions of solid food – like their
metre-long the sausages! Or try an
eidgenoss (a Swiss soldier): half a litre
of beer flambéed with fruit liquor.
The Irish Pub Paddy Reilly’s (p. 32)
in the city centre might be what
you are looking for: all the sports
on TV, 12 different beers on tap and
party-DJs on the weekends. Or try
Safari (p. 31) for some good oldfashioned bar fun with no chichi –
well, maybe a giraffe's head or so.
Grab a free bike or even a
skateboard at one of the
stands of Züri rollt (p. 7).
Skate or cycle along the
lake shore - and don’t forget to make
sure someone is watching when you
pull some stunts. Or try our cycling
tour on p. 13.
Manesse (p. 20) is
probably one of the best
restaurants in town at
the moment – but you
don't have to arrive in a Rolls to feel
comfortable here. Some dishes are
highly experimental, others merely
exquisitely well done. Go on, treat
yourselves!
The Kronenhalle is a
legend in Zurich, where
dark wood and oil
paintings set the
atmosphere. Enjoy the classics like
schnitzel with cucumber salad or
roast from the trolley as do the top
bankers, authors and editors-in-chief
at the other tables (F-4, Rämistrasse 4,
tram stop Bellevue).
In a historic vaulted cellar and lit
with candles, the Weinschenke
(Hirschengasse 6, F-3) easily gets
the predicate romantic. And their
selection of wines might also
rouse your passions, for instance
the Austrian sweet wines or the
local Blauburgunders.
The spring weather can
turn nasty sometimes –
but it's always warm at
the thermalbad and spa
zurich (p. 54). With the different pools
and massages it's a great place to wind
down and even better if you have
someone special to accompany you.
Alice Choo (p. 33) is a mysterious
newcomer to Zurich. By day a bar
and restaurant with sought-after
specialities like kobe beef, by
night a club with entertainment,
international music acts and
some of the best champagne the
world has to offer.
At the Tonhalle you can
enjoy some excellent
classical concerts. The
programme in April and
May includes big symphonic works,
chamber music soirées, Mozarts string
quartets and visiting orchestras from
Gent and London. See p. 14 for more
details.
Elle'n'belle (p. 28), right in the city's
clubbing mile, is loud, cheeky and
pretty rock'n'roll. And this newly
opened restaurant is also vegan!
But it's a far cry from tea-totalers
and cautious health food: the menu
boasts burgers, fries and ice cream.
Vegan is becoming a big thing in
Zurich.
The Swiss answer to Coca Cola is
Rivella, give it a try while you're
here! True to Swiss clichés, it's
made of milk – honest! It doesn't
look or taste anything like milk
though and is supposed to be
quite healthy. You can get it at
most restaurants and shops, the
red flavour is the classic one.
Someone is burning a
huge snowman on a
bonfire in the middle of
Zurich? Sounds scary?
Don't worry, it's just one of those local
customs. This spring celebration is
called Sächsilüüte (April 12 and 13),
and it's meant to scare winter away.
Read all about it in our box (p. 15).
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Zurich has around 1,500 restaurants, bars and
takeaways. No wonder you can find almost any kind
of food imaginable: from down-to-earth Swiss to
traditional Vietnamese, from Lebanese to Japanese
and back again. But today many restaurants also cook
in a mélange, international style and are not easily
categorized. Nevertheless we have tried. We list the
places we recommend within any particular category.
We have far more reviews than we can print, so check
zurich.inyourpocket.com for all of them. The prices in
brackets indicate the cheapest and most expensive main
courses. For lunch, lots of restaurants offer special deals,
usually considerably cheaper. Note that many restaurants
close their kitchens between roughly 14:00 and 17:30
and in the evening at 22:00 or 23:00. For the evening we
recommend you book a table.
ASIAN
BAN SONG THAI
The Ban Song Thai sits in a small alley in the Niederdorf just
under the Grossmünster church - and serves classic Thai
food made from mostly organic ingredients and without
any artificial flavour enhancers. Probably that‘s why the
taste of the food here is authentic. On the menu there are
soups, salads, fish, as well as rice- and Thai-noodle dishes
and curries (even without coconut milk!). The Ban Song
Thai has lots of fans in Zurich - that‘s why we recommend
you book a table in advance. There is also a lunch buffet
(all you can eat, 30Sfr).QF-4, Kirchgasse 6, 8Helmhaus,
tel. +41 44 252 33 31, www.bansongthai.ch. Open 11:30
- 14:45, 18:00 - 23:30, Sat 18:00 - 23:30, Sun closed.
Kitchen open until 22:30. (24 - 45Sfr). JAB
NEW
FIVESPICE
At FiveSpice they serve solid Thai food: the kiaw wan green
curry without coconut milk was light and full of flavours,
the sate tofu with a thick peanut sauce was earthy, smokey,
tasty. The service was quick and friendly, the atmosphere
quite chatty. With the heavy wooden furniture this place
isn’t a take-away, but it’s not elegant either. Just about
right for a simple dinner with friends we would say.
QB-4, Zweierstrasse 106, 8Bahnhof Wiedikon, tel. +41
44 450 13 85, www.fivespices.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:00,
17:30 - 22:00, Sat & Sun 17:30 - 22:00.
SYMBOL KEY
A Credit cards accepted
X Smoker lounge
E Live music
J City centre location
S Take away
N No credit cards
8 Nearest tram station
C-1 Map coordinates
B Outside seating
April - May 2015
19
Restaurants
Restaurants
BURGERS
IROQUOIS
The burgers here are hearty and have plenty of taste
- and, mind, we’re not just talking about the one with
the chillies. The farmer-style decoration, the bright
colours and unpolished wooden floor give the place
a cosy feel. And they don’t just do burgers, but salads
and club sandwiches as well. It’s also a good place
for a drink among friends. Order one of the many
cocktails or beers on offer while watching major sports
events on the TV and sometimes on the big screen.
The Iroquois has a take-away grill station too.QH-7,
Seefeldstrasse 120, 8Höschgasse, tel. +41 44 383
70 77, www.iroquois.ch. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Sat &
Sun Brunch 09:00-16:00. (16 - 30Sfr). AB
THE BITE
The Bite is the latest of a handful of burger restaurants that
have recently opened in the city - burgers seem to be back
on the locals’ hitlist. The Bite convinced us with their Classic
burger - it was one of the best we have had in a long time.
The beef was fried to perfection, the blend delicious and
the cheddar cheese, the shallots and the sauces a great
match. The home-made ketchup and cocktail sauces
which came with the fries went down well too. We could
do without some of the arty chichi - the drinks are served
in jars and the burgers come on wooden chopping boards
con amore e passione
warm meals all day
Mühlebachstrasse 2 | CH-8008 Zurich | T +41 44 250 59 30
commercio.ch | arthouse.ch
BL AUE ENTE
Culinary craftsmanship at Mühle Tiefenbrunnen
since 1890
Mühle Tiefenbrunnen | Seefeldstrasse 223 | 8008 Zürich | 044 388 68 40 | blaue-ente.ch
- but we would always come back for these burgers.QC-2,
Brauerstrasse 15, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41 44 242 30 00,
www.thebite.ch. Open 11:30 - 13:30, 18:00 - 22:30, Fri
11:30 - 13:30, 18:00 -24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Sun closed.
(24 - 33Sfr). A
FINE DINING
BLAUE ENTE
At the Blaue Ente they do pay attention to details: the
freshly baked loaf of bread and the spread are more than a
standard welcome. Happy with the friendly and proficient
waiter, we let him choose some of the 14 available häppli
(small delights) for our starter. We liked everything,
especially the ‘Züriei’, a wonderful creamy and foamy egg
served in a glass with truffle and spinach. With the mains,
we were more than happy too: the Argentinian roastbeef
was a treat, as was the chop of venison. The atmosphere
in this former mill at Tiefenbrunnen is very pleasant and
genuine - we spent a really nice evening.QSeefeldstrasse
223, 8Wildbachstrasse, tel. +41 44 388 68 40,
www.blaue-ente.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00,
Sat 18: 00 -24:00. Sun closed. Kitchen open until 22:00.
AB
LINDENHOFKELLER
Slightly hidden on the walk up to the Lindenhofplatz
in the old town lies the Lindenhofkeller in the cellar
vault of a house built in 1357. The cooking here is
creative-conservative, based on French cuisine. The
speciality is roast Swiss ‘prime’ rack of veal cooked at low
temperature - indeed a remarkably tasty cut of meat.
The Lindenhofkeller’s wine list is 27 pages long - don’t
hesitate to ask for a recommendation to match your
dish and taste. Lovely summer terrace in the courtyard.
QE-3, Pfalzgasse 4, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 211 70 71,
www.lindenhofkeller.ch. Open 11:45 - 15:00, 18:15 23:45. Closed Sat & Sun. Kitchen open until 21:30. (43
- 73Sfr). JAB
MAISON MANESSE
This is extraordinary avant-garde cuisine in a comfortable
and easy-going setting, where the homely white wooden
panelling sets the mood. The menus created by chef Fabian
Spiquel change frequently and feature experimental cuisine
and other unusual cooking styles (i.e an onsen egg, cooked
60 minutes at exactly 63 C, giving it a special wax-like
consistency). In the evening there are two menus on offer
- a vegetarian one and one with fish and meat. You decide
if you prefer six or seven courses (around 120 - 150Sfr).
It’s amazing the tastes they create here. But relax, not
everything is completely off the wall. A steak is still a steak
- except that the one we had here was probably the most
tender we’ve had in a long time. Recommended!QB-5,
Hopfenstrasse 2, 8Schmiede Wiedikon, tel.
+41 44 462 01 01, www.maisonmanesse.ch.
Open 11:45 - 14:00 (straigtforward lunch), 18:00 - 24:00
(reservations from 18:30 - 20:00). Mon evening, Sat
noon and Sun closed. AB
FRENCH
LUMIÈRE
At the Lumière, the cuisine and the style is traditional
French. The speciality of the house is Entrecôte Café
de Paris, a tender cut of beef on a butter based sauce,
served with pommes allumettes, slender french fries.
We definitely liked it. Besides beef there is coq au vin
(chicken) and duck on the menu.The place is small,
space is a bit scarce, the service is attentive and the
recommended grappa was delicious and unsurprisingly
expensive.QE-3, Widdergasse 5, 8Rennweg, tel. +41
44 211 56 65, www.restaurant-lumiere.ch. Open 11:30
- 14:30, 18:00 - 23:30, Sat 11:30 - 23:30, Sun & Mon
closed. JA
MÈRE CATHERINE
Mother Catherine’s menu majors in classics from
Provence using plenty of fish, seafood, olives and
rosemary. But she also does other French classics
like onion soup or snails. Filled pasta like ravioles and
cappelacci, usually home-made, are also standard
features. The interior with uneven walls, dark tables
and chequered tablecloths is pleasant and the kitchen
reliable. The tiny bar Le Philosophe next door is good
for a quiet drink.QF-4, Nägelihof 3, 8Helmhaus, tel.
+41 44 250 59 40, www.commercio.ch. Open 11:30 24:00. Kitchen open until 14:00 & 17:45 - 22:15. Sat &
Sun open throughout. (25 - 45Sfr). JAB
They have a snug open-air area: Blau Ente at Tiefenbrunnen.
PD
ITALIAN
COMMERCIO
While the heyday of Italian cinema may be over, this small
ristorante brings cinema and italianità together in the most
charming way. It stays lively well into the night, thanks also
to the visitors of the Arthouse studio cinemas right next
door. Surrounded by Art Deco elements, guests squeeze into
the slightly tight seats to enjoy a plate of pasta, something
the Commercio has got off to a fine art. With a cinema
ticket from Arthouse cinemas you get a price reduction
of 10%.QG-5, Mühlebachstrasse 2, 8Stadelhofen,
tel. +41 44 250 59 30, www.commercio.ch.
Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (18 - 48Sfr).
JAB
Niederdorfstrasse 31 · 8001 Zürich
www.mohrenkopf.info
Continuing a tradition since 1981
April - May 2015
21
Restaurants
Restaurants
CHEESE RESTAURANTS
istockphoto.com
The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette
originally come from the French-speaking areas of
Switzerland. Fondue is basically a mix of melted cheese
and white wine bubbling over a small burner which
you dip bread cubes into, while raclette is pure melted
cheese which is poured over boiled potatoes.
FRIBOURGER FONDUESTÜBLI
The canton of Fribourg prides itself on making some
of the best fondues, and here you can choose between
two different Fribourger cheese blends. Have a glass of
white wine with your meal, but be careful not to lose
the piece of bread while dipping it in the melted cheese.
QC-3, Rotwandstrasse 38, 8Staufffacher, tel. +41 44
241 90 76, www.fribourger-fondue-stuebli.ch. Open
11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00. Sat & Sun open 17:30 24:00. Kitchen open until 22:00. (28Sfr). A
LE DÉZALEY
For decades Le Dézaley has been dedicated to dishes from
Vaud in western Switzerland. The fondue prepared according
to a family recipe is very tasty and also comes in a version
with morel mushrooms. A typical starter is air-dried meat or instead of fondue try one of the regional sausages.QF-4,
Römergasse 7/9, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 44 251 61 29,
www.le-dezaley.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00, Sun
closed. Kitchen open until 23:00. (22 - 50Sfr). JAB
NEW
ELISABURG
In former working-class Wiedikon, you can still almost smell
the oily overalls of the industrial workers who used to have a
beer here. Some of them would have been delighted if they
been served today’s profumi siciliani - it would have tasted
like home to them. Today, the service and atmosphere have
an improvised feel, but the kitchen staff know their stuff.
Their new take on the somewhat tired antipasti theme, the
stunning carciofo alla giudia (deep-fried artichoke), the pasta
with porcini mushrooms or the coffee - everything was of an
absolutely convincing quality. We’ll be coming again.QB-3,
Elisabethenstrasse 3, 8Wiedikon, Bahnhof, tel. +41 77
455 12 90, www.elisaburg.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 19:00 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. (23 - 42Sfr). A
MOLINO
At Molino they serve what you might call the canon of Italian
food, in a classic atmosphere: bruschette or crostini as starters,
pasta, pizze in traditional or more extraordinary varieties and
mains like saltimbocca (veal cutlet with ham and sage). We
have always really liked their pizze, especially the D.O.C. ones
with authentic Italian produce. Molino won’t let you down
if good Italian food is what you’re after. (Sister restaurants
Molino at Stauffacher 31 (C-3) and Frascati at Bellerivestrasse
2 (F-6).QF-4, Limmatquai 16, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 44
261 01 17, www.molino.ch. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri & Sat
09:00 - 24:00. May - Oct open daily 09:00 - 24:00. JAB
VAPIANO
At Vapiano, the food is prepared as you watch. You order
right from the chefs at the open kitchen, and once your
freshly made pasta, salad or antipasto (all prepared on site)
is ready, you take it straight to your seat. If you order a pizza,
you’ll get a pager which will buzz for your attention when
it comes out of the oven. All your orders are conveniently
charged to a plastic card, you pay when you leave. The
Vapiano concept is a success in 28 countries, and we do
like the relaxed atmosphere and the fresh food à la minute.
In Zurich you’ll find a second Vapiano at Sihlcity shopping
centre (Kalanderplatz 9).QF-4, Rämistrasse 8, 8Bellevue,
tel. +41 44 252 0062, www.vapiano.com. Open 11:00 23:00, Fri & Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Kitchen
open all day, closes 30 minutes earlier. JA
JAPANESE
FUJIYA OF JAPAN
The Fujiya of Japan is all about teppanyaki cuisine: the
chef prepares your food directly at your table on a teppan
- a hot iron plate. He fries fish, prawns, scallops, steaks and
vegetables and serves it with different sauces. The Fujiya
offers a variety of menus with 5 to 9 courses (69 - 150Sfr):
from salads and soups through to sashimi and sushi and
deserts. A remarkable though quite pricey experience.QD5, Tessinerplatz 5, 8Bahnhof Enge, tel. +41 44 208 15
55, www.ascot.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat
18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (39 - 78Sfr). JAB
ROSSO
Some claim this restaurant makes the best pizzas in town.
And well, they really are outstanding - very thin and with
only a little topping - the real Italian style from the south. The
rest of the menu can also keep up with the pizzas - try the
veal roast for example. Service is probably not the most proactive and fast, but if you bring some patience, you definitely
can spend a remarkable evening in this old industry hall next
to the Hardbrücke railway station. Rosso is always very busy try to get a reservation by phone. If not you can still test your
luck - or your patience - waiting for a table at the bar.QK-7,
Geroldstrasse 31, 8Escher-Wyss Platz, tel. +41 43 818 22
54, www.restaurant-rosso.ch. Open 11:30 - 00:30, Sat &
Sun 17:00 - 00:30. AB
Everything says Japan here: Fujiya of Japan.
PD
YOOJI’S BAHNHOFSTRASSE
No matter if you prefer your sushi as a nice dinner at a
table, a quick eat at the bar or to take away: the four Yooji’s
are well known in Zurich for good Japanese food. The one
on Bahnhofstrasse features two stories and works as a
self-service restaurant. Grab your sushi from the display
cabinet and take a seat (or take it out) or sit at the bar and
pick some more daring compositions from the conveyor
belt. The following Yooji’s feature table service: Bellevue
(St. Urbangasse 8), Langstrasse district (Josefstrasse 112),
Seefeld (Seefeldstrasse 115).QE-2, Bahnhofstrasse 102,
8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. +41 44 212 12 25, www.yoojis.com.
Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
Kitchen closes 22:00. JAS
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www.molino.ch
Pizzeria Molino Limmatquai
Limmatquai 16 . T +41 44 261 01 17
Mon-Sun 8.00–24.00
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Mon-Sat 7.00–24.00 . Sun 9.00–24.00
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Ristorante Frascati Zurigo
Bellerivestrasse 2 . T +41 43 443 06 06
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April - May 2015
23
Restaurants
YOOJI’S SUSHI DELI
Sushi, Sashimi, Noodle Soups & Salads
BAHNHOFSTRASSE 102
IM HAUPTBAHNHOF
AM BELLEVUE
JOSEFSTRASSE 112
SEEFELDSTRASSE 115
yoojis.com
SWISS CUISINE
What the Swiss like to eat at home and when
out is heavily influenced by their neighbours’
cuisine, especially the Italians. But what is real
Swiss cuisine? Most Swiss would probably say:
käsefondue (cheese fondue), a hot soup of cheese
and white wine eaten by dunking cubes of bread
in it. Delicious, but the smell can take getting used
to. Raclette is another cheese speciality, melted
cheese on potatoes served with different pickles
and sides. Würste or sausages are also very Swiss,
the bratwurst (usually veal) and cervelat (pork)
being the most common. Züri gschnätzlets is a
traditional Zurich dish, thin strips of veal cooked
in a cream sauce, often with mushrooms. This
is often served with rösti, a cake of fried grated
potatoes, a bit like Spanish tortilla but also on
the list of Swiss traditionals. Switzerland also
has an impressive range of breads to go with the
cheeses, e.g. the rich zopf (plaited loaf ) is a favourite
for Sunday breakfasts. Fondue chinoise and fondue
bourgignonne are not traditionally Swiss, strictly
speaking, but these two meat fondues are very
popular too. Both involve dipping meat into
a pot, full of either hot broth (chinoise) or oil
(bourgignonne) and then enjoying with a range of
sauces and sides.
Restaurants
LAKESIDE RESTAURANTS
QUAI 61
Part of the Quai 61 is actually built on the water, meaning
you have a truly perfect view of the lake and the city here.
Try to get a table by the huge windows (some of them
can be opened in summer). The waiters are dressed like
seamen, probably that’s why we feel like we’ve just set off
on a cruise. The menu is small and features grilled meat
from the beachwood grill (you can smell and taste it) some
fish options and pasta. No daring compositions, all rather
simple but tasty, we must admit. Don’t forget to book a
table. In good weather they have an outdoor area with a
smaller menu and no reservations (open 14:30 - 24:00).
On the upper floor there is a bar and a sun deck.QD-6,
Mythenquai 61, 8Rentenanstalt, tel. +41 44 405 61
61, www.quai61.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00,
Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Last orders 13:45 &
21:30. AB
MEDITERRANEAN
BAR BASSO
We like the style at the Basso - it’s modern and pure,
without being super-cooled. The Italian-Alpine menu is
also definitely worth a mention, offering e.g. tasty tartar,
excellent cheese lasagne, served not in layers but open, so
to speak, and some great cuts of meat too. They also have
a wood-fire oven for genuine pizze. The service is attentive
and fresh, and on a sunny day, their colourful outdoor tables
just overlooking the Sihl canal are a lovely place to enjoy a
good cup of coffee.QD-3, Sihlstrasse 59, 8Sihlstrasse,
tel. +41 43 497 25 28, www.barbasso.ch. Open 08:00 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. JAB
geschnetzeltes and bratwurst on the menu as well.QF-4,
Untere Zäune 15, 8Neumarkt, tel. +41 44 251 65 04,
www.gruenesglas.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00,
Sat 17:30 - 23:00, Sun closed. Kitchen open until 22:00.
(28 - 45Sfr). JAB
MEXICAN
NEW
CANTINA LA LUPE
Authentic Mexican food like hearty tacos full of flavour,
quesadillas or tortas is what they have on offer at the casual
La Lupe. The freshly made sauces you can add to your dish
are a treat, but carramba!, they can be really spicy! The fish
in the ceviche, a cocktail of fish, chilli, coriander and lime
juice, could have been a little more tender but otherwise
we were very satisfied. We almost couldn’t stop ordering
more rounds of tacos. The margaritas were pretty strong
and not too sweet - just the way we like them.QM-7,
Luisenstrasse 43, 8Limmatplatz, tel. +41 44 271 20
22, www.cantinalalupe.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. AB
ORIENTAL
LE CÈDRE - BELLEVUE
This is the city branch of the original Le Cèdre
(Badenerstrasse 78, +41 44 241 42 72), which opened more
than 15 years ago as one of the first Lebanese restaurants
All hands on deck - Quai 61 makes the most of its lakeside location.
PD
in town. And we can confirm that it serves the same
excellent cuisine that host Maurice Houraibi stands for. On
offer are more than 100 different types of mezze (cold and
warm starters) with all kind of mystic tastes unfamiliar to
Western tongues. Many of the mezzes are vegetarian. Take a
selection of them as a starter or big platter as a main course.
There are also lamb, veal, poultry and fish dishes. Service
tends to be a little slow.QF-4, Schifflände 5, 8Bellevue,
tel. +41 44 252 83 70, www.libanesisch.ch. Open 11:00 00:30. (19 - 65Sfr). JAB
LES HALLES
This garage-style restaurant offers mostly organic food from
around the Mediterranean with a particularly French touch.
The ever fresh moules et frites (mussels with French fries)
are what a lot of people come here for, or the tasty beef
tartar. The restaurant works like a market hall: you place
your order at the kitchen corner and it‘s served to your
table. It’s always very busy and loud - so come here rather
for the outstanding fresh food and the industrial style than
for a quiet evening with your significant other. There is also
a delicatessen in the back.QL-6, Pfingstweidstrasse 6,
8Schiffbau, tel. +41 44 273 11 25, www.les-halles.ch.
Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri & Sat 11:00
- 02:00, Sun closed. Kitchen open until 13:45/21:45,
snacks & tapas througout. (20 - 35Sfr). AB
ZUM GRÜNEN GLAS
A little bit off the beaten track on the upper edge
of Niederdorf, the Zum Grünen Glas offers notable
Mediterranean-style cuisine in the noble atmosphere
of an old guild house. The classic here is the beef tartar it’s served either with basil and olives or Asian-style with
wasabi and mango chutney. And yes, it’s very tasty. You
will find fish, meat and some typical Zurich dishes like
Mediterranean bar/restaurant/market hall, located at the heart of the culture and
night-life district of Zurich West. Reservations: 044-273 11 25 or www.les-halles.ch
April - May 2015
25
Restaurants
Restaurants
DECODING THE MENU
SPANISH
General terms
Käse
paniert
Pfeffer
Rahm
Salz
Senf
cheese
breaded
pepper
cream
salt
mustard
Fleisch
Bratwurst
Hackbraten
Kalb
Lamm
Poulet, Hühnchen
Rind
Schnitzel
Schwein
Ghackets
Geschnetzeltes
Meat
sausage
meatloaf
veal (or calf )
lamb
chicken
beef
cutlet, often breaded
pork
mince meat
meat in bite-size pieces
MADRID
Not surprisingly given it’s name, the Madrid serves
exclusively Spanish cuisine. The menu is long with plenty
of grilled fish and meat, the classic paella (minimum 2
pers.) and some more unusual dishes, which remain clearly
committed to the Spanish origins. The cooking is of high
quality, service professional. The slightly dated interior has
a sprinkling of Iberian kitsch, while the outside tables are in
the cobbled streets along the two sides of this corner house.
QF-3, Brunngasse 12, 8Rudolf-Brun Brücke, tel. +41 44
251 13 33, www.restaurant-madrid.ch. Open 11:30 24:00. Kitchen closes 23:00. (32 - 54Sfr). JAB
Fisch
Egli
Forelle
Felchen
Fish
European perch
trout
common whitefish
Beilagen
Aubergine
Bratkartoffeln
Brötchen
Kartoffeln
Nudeln
Pilze
Pommes Frites
Spargel
Spätzli
Speck
Zwiebeln
Side dishes
aubergine, egg plant
roast potatoes
bread roll
potatoes
pasta
mushrooms
french fries, potato chips
asparagus
egg noodles
bacon
onion
Dessert
Apfelstrudel
Berliner
(Schokoladen) Kuchen
Tiramisu
Desserts
apple pie
doughnut
(chocolate) cake
Italian cream dessert
STEAK HOUSES
BOHEMIA
Bohemia’s waiters wear ties - and they’re not the only
thing with style around here. The tiled floor and the crystal
chandeliers give the Bohemia a distinguished atmosphere,
drawing both business people and the city’s in-crowd.
They mainly serve steaks grilled to your liking on the woodfire grill. Try their home-made sauces - we loved the just
slightly sweet ketchup. The bar area at the front can be
busy, so if you prefer a quieter atmosphere, try to get a
table in the room at the back.QH-5, Klosbachstrasse 2,
8Kreuzplatz, tel. +41 44 383 70 60, www.bohemia.ch.
Open 06:45 - 24:00, Thu & Fri 06:45 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (26 - 69Sfr). AB
GEORGE BAR & GRILL
Located on the top floor of the same building that hosts
the Zurich casino, the all new and kind of swanky George
boasts a great terrace. On both sides of the building one
can sit outdoors and enjoy the view over the city centre.
But George is an allrounder: he offers a long wooden bar,
a cosy library-style lounge and plenty of tables for lunch
and dinner. Foodwise he mainly specialises in grilled meat,
steaks and similar and some seafood. Very solid indeed. A
piano player sees to it that you get into a relaxed mood when
you visit George.QD-3, Sihlstrasse 50, 8Stauffacher,
tel. +41 44 444 50 60, www.george-grill.ch.
Open 11:30 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 11:30 - 02:00, closed Sun.
(35 - 82Sfr). JAB
centrally located, hearty traditional swiss cuisine,
affordable prices. Trams from all directions in immediate vicinity - on Bahnhofstrasse at Paradeplatz.
open daily
for reservations
11:30 to 23:00
+41 [0] 44 220 15 15
www.zeughauskeller.ch
The luxuriant understatement of the Bohemia - with daring extras.
NEW
RUBINA
The unpretentious interior of the Rubina made us feel
welcome right from the start. The service was very personal.
And we were also happy with the food we ordered: the
pickled salmon we had as a starter was delicious, the beef
filet was tender as was the locally sourced venison. We
finished off with a crema catalana and a local Fellenberger
Zwetschgen spirit. Perfect for a well-mannered, calm
evening, and just barely outside the centre.QG-1,
Universitätsstrasse 56, 8Haldenbach, tel. +41 44 350
30 15, www.restaurant-rubina.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00,
18:30 - 23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00, Sun & Mon closed. (28
- 40Sfr). A
PD
SWISS
As it’s sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is
(see Swiss cuisine), we list some traditional restaurants
here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern
way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue
and raclette, see the box on p. 22. We list the traditional
Zurich beer halls in a seperate category overleaf. They serve
generous helpings of earthy local food - definitely not a
bad way to explore Swiss cuisine either.
AU-GUST (WIDDER HOTEL)
Black and white tiling, industrial style lamps and an open
kitchen: the all new Au-Gust definitely looks stylish. But
it’s not only looks - the food is a treat too. They major on
meat, not on steaks like everyone else but on cold cuts,
sausages, terrines, carpaccios and innards. Our fleischkäse
(Swiss style meat loaf ) was bursting with flavour. We’re
not usually passionate about innards, but the tripe
Zurich style with its spicy sauce changed our minds on
this one. They also serve platters, so you can try many of
the different edibles they have on offer. No reservations
- in case there is no space, you can simply wait in the inhouse Widder bar until they call you.QE-3, Rennweg 1,
8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 224 28 28, www.au-gust.ch.
Open 11:30 - 22:15 (last orders), breakfast 06:30 10:30, Sat & Sun 06:30 - 11:00. JA
MOHRENKOPF
This is a pleasant place in plain style for Swiss fare,
coffee and snacks or breakfast in the Niederdorf area,
frequented by tourists and locals alike. The menu offers
classics like chalbsgschnäzlets (veal in bite-size pieces)
with rösti (hash browns) as well as more unusual dishes
like capuns, an Alpine speciality of sausage and dumpling
wrapped in chard leaves. Try them, they’re a treat. If you
fancy a sweet to round off the meal, try a mohrenkopf, a
chocolate covered marshmallow that gave the restaurant
its name.QF-3, Niederdorfstrasse 31, 8Rudolf-BrunBrücke, tel. +41 44 262 05 45, www.mohrenkopf.info.
Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 18:00. Kitchen open non-stop until 22:00. (19 - 36Sfr).
JA
Kreuzplatz | 8032 Zürich
bohemia.ch | T: +41 (0) 44 383 70 60
April - May 2015
27
Restaurants
Cafés
VEGETARIAN
NEW ELLE’N’BELLE
Elvis is alive! And vegan has gone rock’n’roll! The menu
here starts with the desserts, such as the blood-orange
mousse with mini marshmallows. One of our mains - a
substantial burger with wasabi sauce and fries - also
had US origins, but they do risotto or excellent Turkishinspired lentil balls too. In the same building as the large
X-TRA club, this place is young, buzzing and daring. The
King would have loved it.QM-7, Limmatstrasse 118,
8Limmatplatz, www.ellenbelle.ch. Open 11:00 23:00, closed Sun. (13 - 29Sfr). JA
TIBITS
The bounteous vegetarian buffet is the focal point of tibits,
where you choose from around 40 home-made salads,
hot daily specials, soups and sweets. It’s more than plain
tasty, believe us. Situated in the Seefeld district, tibits is very
popular with business people and the hipper residents of
the area. It’s all available to take away too. Sister restaurant
‘tibits im NZZ bistro’ around the corner at Falkenstrasse 12,
+41 44 260 32 12 (Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00).
QG-5, Seefeldstrasse 2, 8Opernhaus, tel. +41 44 260
32 22, www.tibits.ch. Open 06:30 - 23:30, Fri 06:30 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:30. Food served
until 30 min before closing. (buffet, 4.20Sfr (take away
3.70Sfr) per 100 grams). JABS
Zurich
is rich.
In vitamins.
V EG E TA RI A N RE S TAU R A N T B A R TA K E AWAY C AT E RIN G
S E E F E L D S T R . 2 | T IB I T S AT T H E N Z Z B I S T R O, FA L K E N S T R . 12
N E X T T O T H E O P E R A H O U S E , Z U R I C H | W W W .T I B I T S . C H
W W W .T I B I T S . C O . U K |
Insta
VELTLINERKELLER
The Veltlinerkeller specialises in traditional Swiss and French
cuisine - including a couple of extras originating in the
Veltlin region in the Italian Alps. Be it chateaubriand, zürcher
geschnetzeltes (veal in bite-size pieces) or grilled common
sole - the chef definitely knows his trade. Happily the latest
trends in gastronomy haven’t made it to the Veltlinerkeller
- so don’t expect anything fancy, but good traditional food
in a homely atmosphere, set by the walls lined with Swiss
stone pine.QE-4, Schlüsselgasse 8, 8Paradeplatz, tel.
+41 44 225 40 40, www.veltlinerkeller.ch. Open 11:30
- 24:00, closed Sat & Sun. Kitchen open 11:30 - 13:45,
18:30 - 21:45. (43 - 63Sfr). JA
Tibits is a favourite among urban vegetarians.
PD
BEER HALLS
RHEINFELDER BIERHALLE
The Rheinfelder is one of the oldest beer halls in town: a
place where workers, students, and business men alike go
for the big portions, good prices and traditional down-toearth food - and lots of beer of course. The waiters have a
rough charm, but usually serve the desired dishes quickly:
schweinsleberli (pork liver), bratwurst, kidney, rösti or
chnöpfli (small ball-shaped noodles). If in doubt go for the
jumbo-jumbo cordon bleu that the Rheinfelder is famous
for. But beware: the waitress will poke fun at you if you can’t
take this piece of meat the size of an elephant’s ear.QF-2,
Niederdorfstrasse 76, 8Central, tel. +41 44 251 54 64,
www.rheinfelder.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00. Kitchen open
until 23:15. (12 - 32Sfr). JNB
ZEUGHAUSKELLER
The Zeughauskeller (the arsenal) is one of Zurich’s biggest
beer halls. Situated in a mediaeval arsenal it serves good
solid traditional Swiss fare: generous helpings of meat,
sausages, schnitzel and roast. Popular with tourists, locals
and lads out for the night, it’s a place where it’s easy to get
to know people, as you share the big tables with other
guests. Old military devices standing around are there to
remind you where you are. So don’t get too drunk, you
might end up getting conscripted.QE-4, Bahnhofstrasse
28a, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 220 15 15,
www.zeughauskeller.ch. Open 11:30 - 23:00. Kitchen
open until 22:00. (19 - 40Sfr). JAB
Cafés in Zurich generally serve coffee Italian style (from
ristretto to cappuccino) and many draw on the rich Swiss
tradition of pastry and chocolate making. But there is
no fixed definition of a café, most also serve alcoholic
beverages, other snacks or even full meals and many
double as bars in the evening rather than closing.
NEW
CUPCAKE AFFAIR
This affair is obviously obsessive: they do nothing but cupcakes
here. Oh, but what they can do with a cupcake! How about
raspberry and white chocolate? Or chai spices with caramel
and fleur de sel? The little café with white tables, wooden floor
and dashes of pink has just a touch of girliness to it. But the
excellent coffee and the range of drinks is totally grown-up.
They offer a gluten-free cupcake and every Tuesday a vegan
one.QF-3, Spitalgasse 10, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. +41
76 461 04 64, www.cupcake-affair.ch. Open 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun closed. JAB
FELIX AM BELLEVUE
Felix is the top dog among the coffee places around Bellevue.
The spacious interior opulently decorated with flowers,
columns and mirrors gives you the impression this grand
café has been here for decades. Try their homemade ice
cream or the chocolade (chocolate milk) Felix is best known
for. They serve all kinds of sweets as well as breakfasts from
fast and simple to luxurious with salmon and champagne.
Elderly ladies love this pricey café for their afternoon chat
just as much as young, hip girls dropping in for a break from
shopping. In the evening Felix doubles as a bar, often with
DJ on the weekends.QF-4, Bellevueplatz 5, 8Bellevue,
tel. +41 44 251 80 60, www.felixambellevue.ch. Open
07:30 - 02:00, Mon & Tue 07:30 - 01:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00,
Sun 09:00 - 24:00. JABK
NEW
MILCHBAR
Coffee afficionados now have a home just off Paradeplatz.
You can choose from a dazzling number of different
brewing techniques, some of which we honestly hadn’t
heard of before. There is filter coffee, syphon, V60,
Aeropress, boiler and more. If none of this rings a bell with
you, relax: they have a very nice espresso too. And it’s all
laid-back, though stylish. They also have many fresh juices
and smoothies (usually you can try some for free) and
home-made pastries. They do lunches and in the evening
it doubles as a bar and restaurant (first floor).QE-4,
Kappelergasse 16, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 211 90 12,
www.milchbar.ch. Open 05:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JAB
ODEON
A coffee house of international fame on Bellevue: Lenin,
James Joyce and Albert Einstein are all said to have
been regulars in the more than hundred years of Odeon
history. Even though this gran café has been scaled down
to half its initial size, it’s still more than worth a visit: the
Art Nouveau architecture has been preserved and the
high room with its chandeliers still breaths grandeur.
Daily menus, outside seating and a kitchen that works until
one hour before (the late) closing time keep the Odeon
popular with all kinds of people.QF-4, Limmatquai 2,
8Bellevue, tel. +41 44 251 16 50, www.odeon.ch.
Open 07:00 - 02:00, Mon 07:00 - 01:00, Fri 07:00 - 03:00,
Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. Food served until
one hour before closing time. JNB
Cafés double as bars after dark - like the Odeon here.
PD
SPRÜNGLI
Sprüngli has been around for 170 years and for locals it’s
synonymous with excellent confectionery and chocolate.
Their café is the place to stop for a coffee when shopping
on Bahnhofstrasse. Try to get a window seat on the
first floor overlooking Paradeplatz, order a coffee and
choose something sweet from the display cabinet.QE-4,
Bahnhofstrasse 21, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 224 46
16, www.spruengli.ch. Open 07:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 18:00, Sun 09:30 - 17:30. JAB
BREAKFAST
Sunday breakfast is an institution in many Swiss
families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss breakfasts,
a rich white bread baked in the shape of a braid, and is
served with butter, jams, honey, cheeses or cold meats.
Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety of breads - rye bread,
maize bread or potato-and-walnut bread to name
just a few - which add to the breakfast spread. Buttery
croissants, called gipfeli in Swiss German, are also a
favourite. Another breakfast dish with strong roots in
Switzerland is müesli, made of oat flakes, grated apple,
ground hazelnuts and yoghurt in the classic birchermüesli
version. Many Swiss don’t consider breakfast complete
without one of the many takes on the müesli-theme.
Here come our favourite breakfast places:
FELIX AM BELLEVUE, breakfasts served every day
from fast and simple to luxurious with salmon and
champagne (see on the left).
HAUS HILTL, ample vegetarian breakast buffet, daily
until 10:30, Sat until 11:30. On Sundays brunch buffet
09:30 - 14:30, all you can eat 57Sfr. (E-3, Sihlstrasse 28,
+41 44 227 70 00).
April - May 2015
29
Nightlife
Nightlife
SAFARI BAR
A simple, cool bar frequented by locals, just off the main
pedestrian street in Niederdorf. Come here for a chat with
your friends at one of the tables - or grab a seat at the
long bar where it is easy to get talking to others. In the
background there is usually rock music - and if you have a
drink in mind which is not on the menu - just ask for it. If
they have the ingredients, they will be happy to prepare it
for you.QF-3, Zähringerstrasse 29, 8Central, tel. +41 44
262 12 40, www.safaribar.ch. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Thu Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Fri & Sat 12:00 - 02:30, Sun 18:00 - 24:00.
Razzia celebrates the soft tones of the early 20th century.
PD
CLASSY BARS
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Zurich’s nightlife offers classy clubs, casual and alternative
bars, as well as live-music venues and strip clubs. On the
weekend people from almost half of Switzerland come
to the city to have a good time. The main nightlife areas
are Niederdorf (F-2/3) in the old town, the streets around
Langstrasse (C-1/2) and Zurich West (L-6/7). There is a lively
club scene - but with dozens of bars around, bar-hopping
can be just as much fun. A night out in Zurich can be great,
but quite expensive. If you’re heading for bars and clubs have
some cash handy, as not all venues take credit cards. If you
prefer it on the quiet side, there are wine and cocktail bars in
the old town and around Paradeplatz. Check out our listings.
CASUAL BARS
DANTE
Dante’s chequered tiled floor, the black bar and the back
wall covered with brass make for a cool yet quite low-key
atmosphere. The crowd is young and a little alternative
though still on the trendy side. Remarkable at Dante is
the gin library: more than 80 different brands are on offer,
as well as many cocktails. Try a Basil Bash, a little sweet, a
little sour, and yes, a little basil. Unexpectedly fresh and
tasty. Second bar and smokers’ lounge in the basement.
QC-2, Zwinglistrasse 22, 8Sihlpost, tel. +41 43 317 19
18, www.dante-zurich.ch. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat
18:00 - 02:00, Mon & Sun closed. AX
LE PHILOSOPHE
You don’t have to be a philosopher to find this bar enjoyable
- if you love cocktails that will do. Come here for a chat with
friends - or to get in contact with strangers. The tiny size of
Le Philosophe makes it easy to get in touch with others.
If you lack a chat topic the barkeeper‘s music taste might
be something to talk about. Or order some tartar buns
from the neighbouring sister restaurant Mère Catherine.
QF-4, Nägelihof 3, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 44 250 59 40,
www.commercio.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00. A
NEW
THE INTERNATIONAL
This new bar is dedicated to craft beers from small
breweries. They have around 50 different ones from all
around Switzerland on offer, and another 50 from around
the world, many from Belgium, the US and Canada. Around
10 are on tap. The huge board on the wall behind the bar
lists them grouped by types, like Indian pale ales, stouts,
amber etc. to help you choose. Despite the many Swiss
beers, lots of expats are regulars here. The bar is a bit too
sterile for our taste, more like a bistro than a beer joint,
but hopefully that will change as the bar ages.QM-7,
Luisenstrasse 7, 8Röntgenstrasse, tel. +41 79 345 78 72,
www.theinternational.ch. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
closed. A
SYMBOL KEY
A Credit cards accepted
N No credit cards
E Concerts
X Smoker lounge
K Restaurant
MÖVENPICK WEIN BAR
The bare facts of this venue are simple: shelves full of wine
bottles, high tables and stools and around 250 wines from
Switzerland and all around the world. Many of the wines
are sold by the glass (including some rarities!), for bottles
you pay the indicated take-away prices plus 15Sfr corkage.
Apart from snacks to accompany your wine there are a few
main dishes including their divine tartar. The only thing
that disturbs the calm atmosphere here are the screens
showing advertisements for Mövenpick products.QE-4,
Nüschelerstrasse 1, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 211 91
39, www.wein-bar.ch. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:30 23:00. Closed Sun. AK
RAZZIA
This was once Zurich’s first cinema, now the Razzia
houses a stylish bar (as well as a restaurant). The interior
architects have done a fine job: everything from the
beige bar stools, to the pattern of the wall paper to
the pulley-mounted wall lamps give the bar a slightly
aristocratic, 1920s touch. It’s a place for wine lovers,
with many dozens of wines from around the world on
offer. But they also have all the latest cocktails and more
available. It seems to be the new favourite hangout
of the chic, well-heeled Seefeld residents.QG-6,
Seefeldstrasse 82, 8Feldeggstrasse, tel. +41 44 296
70 70, www.razzia-zuerich.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri
& Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun closed. A
ALTERNATIVE BARS
HAFENKNEIPE
Though Zurich doesn’t have a port, sitting on the seats
made of wooden crates in the Hafenkneipe (‘harbour
pub’) sipping a beer or a straight whiskey makes you
feel like your ship to the brave new world will be leaving
shortly. The world map behind the bar shows you where
you could end up and the young, quite alternative crowd
will be happy to drink a farewell shot with you anytime.
Occasionally concerts on Mondays.QD-2, Militärstrasse
12, 8Sihlpost, tel. +41 43 322 02 82, www.hafenkneipe.
info. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Wed & Thu 17:00 - 01:00, Fri
17:00 - 02:00, Sat 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. E
CASINO
PD
SWISS CASINOS ZÜRICH
Zurich is the city of money, finance and banks - and it
also has its own casino. The escalator takes you from the
entrance to the first floor, where the world of glittery lights
and imagined fortunes takes you in. More than 350 slot
machines and the table games roulette, black jack, punto
banco and texas hold’em poker on two floors make this
casino the largest in Switzerland. The stakes on the table
games set in at 2 Sfr - with practically no upper limit. For
your physical well-being there are two bars and a lounge.
The casino also has a smoker’s section. To get access to
this gambling paradise you need to be at least 18 years
old, well dressed and have a valid ID card or passport
with you. The entrance fee is 10 CHF after 19:00.QD-3,
Gessnerallee 3-5, 8Stauffacher / Sihlstrasse, tel. +41
43 330 30 30, www.swisscasinos.ch. Open 11:00 04:00, Fri & Sat 11:00 - 05:00. Table games start at 14:00.
April - May 2015
31
Nightlife
YOUR PARTY PORTAL
zuerich.usgang.ch is a website
where you can check out
what’s on in town. A simple click on a certain date in
the calendar shows you all the parties and events
that are on that day. Name of the party, music style
played and location - it’s all there. And don’t forget to
go back to the site the day after partying to see if one of
their photographers caught you in action.
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
If you are looking for sins of the flesh, and then
probably you’re male, Zurich offers what you can
expect of a city of its size. In Switzerland prostitution
is legal, so in Zurich you can find everything from
strip bars to brothels. Street prostitution is allowed
only in certain areas - for example at Häringstrasse in
Niederdorf and in Altstetten in the so-called sex boxes
(Depotweg, access by car only). At infamous Sihlquai,
street prostitution is now prohibited.
Broadly speaking you have two options: most
of the strip clubs - which are called nightclubs or
cabarets - are located in the Niederdorf part of
the old town or around Langstrasse west of the
main train station. What you can expect there are
expensive drinks (i.e. 20Sfr for a beer) and shows
with half-naked ladies dancing on a pole until they
are entirely naked. In 2013 local media reported
rip-offs in the strip-bar Chilli’s, the victims even
claiming to have been dazed and then made to
sign huge credit card bills. The owner denies the
reports, the prosecutor is still investigating. Stay
alert.
Nightlife
DANCE BARS
TALACKER
The Talacker is incredibly popular with the city centre’s
hip crowd. They kept the shabby style of the old café it
once was and mixed it with wall paper decorated with
huge dogs - just too cool to be true. Have an Asian-style
lunch (soups, curries, 11:45 - 15:00), or simply mingle with
Zurich’s twenty- and thirty-somethings having fun to the
DJ’s records. Usually it is too crowded to dance, but don’t
hesitate to give it a go, if you find half a square metre to do
so.QD-4, Talacker 41, 8Sihlporte, tel. +41 44 211 20 50,
www.talackerbar.ch. Open 11:45 - 24:00, Thu & Fri 11:45
- 03:00, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, closed Sun. AK
HAIFISCH
The ‘shark’ comes with modern red leather sofas,
lots of mirrors, a grand piano and live music.QF-3,
Mühlegasse 3, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. +41 44
251 41 10, www.haifischbar.ch. Open 17:00 - 04:00,
Fri & Sat 17:00 - 05:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00. A
KANZLEI
The Kanzlei is one of the dinosaurs of the city’s clubs.
Located in a former gym hall at Helvetiaplatz, its dance
floor has been a magnet for a young party crowd for many
years - and it actually still is. From Thu to Sat the DJs spin
everything from dancehall to house and party tunes check their website for details.QC-3, Kanzleistrasse 56,
8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41 44 291 63 11, www.kanzlei.ch.
Open Thu - Sat 23:00 - 04:00.
PUBS
JAMES JOYCE
The James Joyce is a classy Irish pub with furnishings
which came from the Jury’s hotel in Dublin and an Art
Nouveau bar built in the 19th century. The crowd here is
quite uptown and business-like. The beer list features 10
beers including Murphy’s Irish Stout. Their choice of wines
is also surprisingly large: 20 served by the glass and more
than 300 different bottles in the cellar. On the menu there
is fish ‘n’ chips, homemade hamburgers, tartar and club
sandwiches. Do we have to mention that they have an
excellent choice of single malt whiskeys as well?QD-3,
Pelikanstrasse 8, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 221 18 28,
www.jamesjoyce.ch. Open 11:00 - 00:30, Sat 11:30 18:00, Sun closed. AK
Brothels, sex and sauna clubs are generally situated
in the suburbs or just outside the city. In the city you
will find such establishments around Häringstrasse in
Niederdorf and around Dienerstrasse in the Langstrasse
district.
As in other places, many prostitutes work because
they have few other income options or, even worse,
because they are forced to. Street prostitutes
are particularly likely to be victims of human
trafficking. In 2010, several Zurich pimps received
prison sentences for extreme violence against their
prostitutes.
HIVE
The Hive has set the pace of Zurich West’s nightlife for many years
now and still does for house, techno and indie dance - which
they play on different floors. The crowd from students to thirty
somethings (usually) knows how to party.QK-7, Geroldstrasse
5, 8Escher-Wyss-Platz, tel. +41 44 271 12 10, www.hiveclub.
ch. Open Thu - Sat 23:00 - late, afterhours on Sun.
CLUBS
The stately elegance of the rainy isles: it’s always cosy at James
PD
Joyce.
PADDY REILLY’S
A real Irish pub in the middle of Zurich featuring 12
different draught ciders and beers (from Irish stout to Swiss
lager), burgers, chips and salads - and sports of course. All
the majors events from rugby to football and Formula 1
are shown on a big screen and the many flatscreen TVs.
Fridays and Saturdays a DJ tries to get all the expats and
travellers dancing on the red carpet - who usually don’t
need telling twice.QD-3, Talstrasse 82, 8Sihlstrasse, tel.
+41 43 497 39 66, www.paddys.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00,
Fri 11:30 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.
AKX
The Mascotte club as we know it: packed and rocking.
PD
NEW
ALICE CHOO
Alice Choo ist the latest hotspot for Zurich’s rich and
beautiful. International electronica DJs spin their music
from Thursday to Saturday and bring the party to the two
subterranean dancefloors. On the groundfloor, the Alice is
an restaurant and bar open all week serving Asian cuisine.
Exclusive designer furniture makes for an extravagant
atmosphere.QM-6, Limmatstrasse 275, 8Dammweg,
tel. +41 44 448 11 11, www.alice-choo.ch. Club open Fri
23:30 - late, Sat 23:00 - late. Restaurant & Bar open 11:30 14:00, 18:30 - 00:30, Thu & Fri 11:30 - 14:00, 18:30 - 01:00,
Sat 18:30 - 01.00. Sun & Mon closed. (25 - 295Sfr). A
DIE ZUKUNFT
‘The Future’ is a small club in a Langstrasse district basement,
and is Zurich’s premier space for freaky electro, house and
crossover party styles. The entrance is hidden in a passage
between two buildings next to the Bar 3000. Getting past
the doormen is sometimes difficult, though the policy is
not obvious: you just have to fit to the crowd already inside.
Once you are in, you will find revellers who don’t tire of
partying until the break of dawn.QC-2, Dienerstrasse 33,
8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41 43 535 60 13, www.zukunft.
cl. Open Thu 23:00 - late, Fri & Sat 24:00 - late. Bar 3000
open Tue - Fri 18:00 - late, Sat 20:00. Wed often concerts.
Admission around 20Sfr, Thu free. X
GONZO
This small but very tight rock and pop club (strictly no
electro music) really is worth queuing for. You head down
some stairs just next to the kebap shop and arrive in a cellar
where a dance floor, a bar and a constantly overcrowded
smoker’s room await you for some serious rock ‘n roll.
Gentlemen, start your engines!QC-1, Langstrasse 135,
8Helvetiaplatz, www.gonzoclub.ch. Open Wed - Sat
23:00 - late. Admission around 20Sfr, Wed & Thu free
until midnight.
MASCOTTE
In this club you can feel the history: built around 1900 as a
variété it has been a music and culture club ever since. Sammy
Davis Junior and Louis Armstrong played here in the time of
swing and big bands. Nowadays bands like Arcade Fire, The
XX, and MGMT played their first ever Switzerland shows
here. But it’s a very popular party place too. International DJs
(Martin Solveig, Jazzy Jeff ) and local heroes spin their tunes
for all kinds of people: twens mix with thirty-somethings
dressed from chic to indie. On Fridays the DJ plays all styles,
on Saturdays the music is either house, disco, hiphop,
electronic or Latin. Check their website!QF-5, Theaterstrasse
10, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 44 260 15 80, www.mascotte.ch.
Open 22:00/23:00 - late, Sun & Tue closed. Admission: Mon
& Wed free, Thu & Fri 15Sfr, Sat 25Sfr. AEX
LIVE MUSIC
Zurich offers all kinds of live music: jazz, pop, rock,
metal, indie, gothic and much more. You will find bands
playing somewhere every night of the week. The clubs
and bars listed here focus on live music - we tell you
what you can usually expect.
MOODS
With more than 230 concerts a year, the Moods is
Zurich’s prime address for jazz, funk, soul, blues and
world music. Big international names as well as many
Swiss artists. After-show parties on the weekend.QK-6,
Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Escher-Wyss-Platz, tel. +41 44
276 80 00, www.moods.ch.
ROTE FABRIK
This centre of alternative culture funded by the city has
about 100 concerts a year on their variously sized stages.
Some bands are well established, others known by real
insiders only. On Tuesdays often concerts in the Ziegel oh
Lac restaurant.QSeestrasse 395, 8Post Wollishofen,
tel. +41 44 485 58 58, www.rotefabrik.ch.
April - May 2015
33
Sightseeing
Sightseeing
Since the Reformation the church has a barren feel,
alleviated only by the windows. German artist Sigmar
Polke finished 12 simply beautiful windows in 2009, partly
made of semi-precious stones. Crypt and cloister with a
museum on the Reformation are also accessible.QF-4,
Grossmünsterplatz, 8Helmhaus. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
LAKE ZURICH
LINDENHOF
This idyllic square on a little hill in Zurich’s centre used to
be an important place. The Romans set up shop here and
later mediaeval royals would stay here when travelling in
the region. Check out the replica Roman tomb stone in the
right-hand wall of Pfalzgasse leading down and out of the
square. The view from here over the Limmat is very pretty
and on sunny days you can join in a game of chess at the
back of the square.QE-3, 8Rathaus.
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Zurich’s largely intact mediaeval town on the one hand
and its natural setting on the other are the city’s charms.
It also has an excellent range of museums and galleries
showing international art. Admission to many places is free,
if it does cost we indicate the full price followed by reduced
price, usually the children’s price, e.g. 10/5Sfr. Museums are
usually closed on Mondays.
MAIN SIGHTS
If you ask someone from Zurich which of the city’s sights
represents Zurich best, they’ll probably point to the
Grossmünster, its unmistakable double towers making
it the closest Zurich has to a landmark. Wasserkirche and
Fraumünster complete the trinity of famous churches.
Lindenhof is where Zurich started off and is a lovely spot
today, while the central police station is another unlikely
lovely spot - unless maybe you’re escorted there. Its
entrance hall is splendidly decorated with work by Augusto
Giacometti. But two of Zurich’s major attractions are not
man-made at all: the lake and the Uetliberg peak.
FRAUMÜNSTER
Today most people come to Fraumünster to see the
magnificent stained glass windows in the choir created
by French artist Marc Chagall in the early 1970s, or the
windows by Augusto Giacometti. But in days gone by this
Gothic abbey dating from the 9th century was more than
just pretty. Fraumünster, which literally means women’s
abbey, belonged to the Benedictine convent whose abbess
had wide powers in Zurich. Women came on harder times
in the 16th century. The little archway on the outer corner
of Fraumünster (Poststrasse/Münsterhof ) was used to limit
decadence and elaborate clothing, and women’s wide
hoop skirts had to fit through here, or else a fine was due.
No visiting during Sunday services.QE-4, Stadthausquai
19, 8Helmhaus. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
GIACOMETTI MURALS
In the entrance hall to the city’s police headquarters,
Augusto Giacometti’s magnificent murals (1923 - 1925)
adorn the vaulted ceiling and the walls. Opening hours
are quite short.QE-3, Polizeiwache, Bahnhofquai 3,
8Bahnhofquai/HB. Open 09:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 16:00.
Admission free, ID required.
GROSSMÜNSTER
The two towers of the originally Romanesque
Grossmünster are Zurich’s landmark and they also offer
a great view over Zurich, if you make it up the 187
narrow steps (4/2Sfr admission for the tower, open
10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 - 17:00). According to legend,
Felix and Regula, Zurich’s patron saints, were beheaded
at the site of the Wasserkirche and then walked up to
where the Grossmünster stands, taking their heads with
them. Centuries later the emperor Charlemagne was
passing through Zurich and decided to found a church
in honour of the martyrs - after a hint from his horse.
Grossmünsterplatz surrounds the double-towered landmark
Zurich Tourism (GB)
cathedral.
UETLIBERG
The Uetliberg is Zurich’s own little mountain, marking
the end of the Albis mountain chain on the western side
of Lake Zurich. It rises up to 869 metres a.s.l. - towering
around 450 metres over the city. There is a lookout tower
on top bringing you to exactly 900 metres a.s.l. and offering
a stunning view over the city, the lake and on to the Alps.
The mountain is a popular local recreation area all year
round. There is a train (S10 from track 21 or 22) from the
main station twice an hour (more on weekends). Be aware
that you need an additional ticket even if you have a day
pass for Zurich (buy a 1 - 2 additional zones’ day ticket at
the ticket machine). From the terminal station it’s an easy
10-minute walk to the peak with the lookout tower and
a restaurant. You can also walk up from the city to the
peak. Take tram N°13 in direction Albisgüetli and get off
at the last stop. From there two different paths lead to
the top, both take about an hour. You do not need hiking
equipment, but we recommend good shoes and staying
on the path, especially in winter.
The lake is certainly one of the city’s highlights and
a walk along the shores is a must if you’re in Zurich,
whatever the season. Start for example at Bellevue
and walk along the promenade towards Zürichhorn.
After a few hundred metres a park with trees and a
lawn fills the expanse between the lake and the street.
The huge Blatterwiese, also known as Chinawiese
because the Chinese garden is just next to it, is popular
for relaxing, sunbathing or playing sports. There is also a
playground for kids. Continuing you get to Zürichhorn,
a small delta with some lakeside restaurants and later
still to the railway station Tiefenbrunnen where you
can hop on a tram (or train) back to Bellevue. The
western shore of the lake is a bit less popular though
just as nice for a walk. Start at the Arboretum and walk
along the shore passing Enge port, the cactuses of the
Sukkulentensammlung, and the Mythenquai until you
reach the Landiwiese, a large field where many cultural
events take place. If you go just a little further, you can
enjoy a beer in the restaurant of the offstream cultural
centre Rote Fabrik, red factory, marked by the red brick
factory chimney.
LAKE ZURICH CRUISES
(LAKE ZURICH NAVIGATION COMPANY ZSG)
The Lake Zurich Navigation Company operates ships
on Lake Zurich and the river Limmat. If you just want
ten minutes of captains’ uniforms and brass foghorns,
the routes Bürkliplatz-Wollishofen and BürkliplatzZürichhorn are included in any public transport ticket
covering zone 110. If that’s not enough for you, go the
whole hog with a roundtrip. There are different cruises
all year round. They all start from the port at Bürkliplatz
close to Bellevue several times a day. The short cruise
(90 minutes) for example starts every 30 minutes
between 09:10 and 19:40, the 4-hour one every
hour. Tickets and timetables are available at the port.
QE-5, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. +41 44 487 13
33, www.zsg.ch. Tickets for roundtrips 8.60-33.60Sfr,
children half the price, discount with Zurich public
transport day cards.
April - May 2015
35
Sightseeing
MORE FOR LESS
WITH THE ZÜRICHCARD
You’re in town for only two days? Too short, but the
ZürichCARD can help you make the most of it.
For a busy day or two in Zurich,
you can’t really go wrong with
the ZürichCARD. It gives you free
entry to a number of great museums like the Kunsthaus,
the National Museum and dozens more. It also gets you
a 10% discount in lots of shops, e.g. Meng cutlery or
Vollenweider Chocolatier. You get free entry to several
of Zurich’s best clubs and to the casino (p. 31) and many
restaurants will give you dessert on the house with the
card or some other extra, if you have a main course first. The
ZürichCARD also gives you unlimited use of trams, buses,
trains and boats within the city and includes the train trip
from and to the airport, and the trip up to Zurich’s little
mountain Uetliberg. Now that’s a deal!QThe ZürichCARD
costs 24/16Sfr for 24hr and 48/32Sfr for 72hr. Buy it at
SBB counters at the airport, train stations, at the tourist
information at the main station or at all VBZ public
transport sales points and from all ticket machines in
town (stamp it before you set off!). Check their website
www.zuerichcard.com for the full range of discounts
and other details.The ZürichCARD is issued by Zurich
Tourism who cooperate with Zurich In Your Pocket.
Sightseeing
MUSEUMS & ART
Zurich is a real city of museums - there are 43 of them with
all kind of exhibitions. We list the most popular ones and
the ones we like best. You can find more information in
English on all the museums on www.museen-zuerich.ch.
ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
Need magic? Then this is the place to go. The treasures of the
Ethnographic Museum include hundreds of implements
for magic or other rituals from outside Europe with one
of the main focuses on Buddhist and Hindu objects from
the Indian subcontinent. The museum, which is pleasantly
located in Zurich’s old botanical gardens, has just been
renovated.QD-4, Pelikanstrasse 40, 8Sihlporte, tel.
+41 44 634 90 10, www.musethno.uzh.ch. Open 10:00
- 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 14:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 17:00, closed Mon. Admission free.
KINDERCITY
A science city for kids aged 1 to 12. See page
53.QChlirietstrasse12, Volketswil, tel. +41 43 204 30 60,
www.kindercity.ch.
KUNSTHAUS
Zurich’s major art museum has an impressive collection
with work by many Swiss artists such as Füssli, Hodler,
Segantini or Bill and the largest collection of Alberto
Giacometti’s work including some of his trademark
MARKETS
FLEA MARKET KANZLEI
This is probably Switzerland’s biggest year-round flea
market. Up to 400 people put their second-hand goods
on sale here every Saturday, professional traders as well
as people who are just flogging things they don’t need
anymore.QC-3, Kanzleistrasse 56, 8Helvetiaplatz,
www.flohmarktkanzlei.ch. Sat 08:00 - 16:00.
In changing temporary exhibitions parts of this collection
will be on show (see section Culture & Events of this guide).
There are daily guided tours through the collection (daily
at 12:00, Wed 17:00, Sun 13:00, in German). Participants
are limited, register by phone + 41 43 446 66 20.QK-6,
Pfingstweidstrasse 96, 8Toni-Areal, tel. +41 43 446 67
67, www.museum-gestaltung.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00,
Wed 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed.
FRUIT & VEG MARKETS
Zurich’s four outdoor food markets offer fresh, often
organically grown produce from the region, mostly
sold by the farmers themselves. You’ll also find fish
from Lake Zurich, different meats and specialities from
further afield like Italian salami or Greek cheese.
Bürkliplatz (E-5), Tue & Fri, 06:00 - 11:00
Helvetiaplatz (C-2), Tue & Fri, 06:00 - 11:00
Oerlikon (O-2), Wed 06:00 - 11:00, Sat 06:00 - 12:00
Rathausbrücke (F-3), Sat 06:00 - 12:00
Qwww.zuercher-maerkte.ch.
haggard statues. Work by international artists like Manet,
Van Gogh, Kokoschka or Baselitz also please the eye and
mind. Additionally there are usually two very worthwhile
temporary exhibitions, one large, one small (see section
Culture & Events). English language audioguides available.
Café and shop on the ground floor.QG-4, Heimplatz 1,
8Kunsthaus, tel. +41 44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.
ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed & Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Mon
closed. Admission for collection 15/10Sfr, for exhibitions
22/17Sfr, combined ticket 27/20Sfr.
MUSEUM FÜR GESTALTUNG - SCHAUDEPOT
Zurich’s design museum Museum für Gestaltung is going
industrial. The museum has just opened its new premises in
the one-time dairy factory, the Toni Areal, which has been
given a major make-over to accommodate all of the city’s
art schools - fine arts, design, graphics, film, dance, theatre,
music and more (quite worth a visit in itself ). The new
museum is organised as a Schaudepot, i.e. a storage space
where objects can also be displayed and viewed. Over
500’000 objects from the genres poster, design, applied
art and graphics are stored in the museum’s collections.
A storehouse of design - Museum für Gestaltung, Schaudepot. PD
NATIONAL MUSEUM (LANDESMUSEUM)
It will take you a while to get through the permanent
exhibition on Swiss history, but hey, it took centuries to
accumulate. Complete with sights, sounds, slides and
secret bank accounts, this is not some bone-dry collection
of old things. There are four thematic areas: the first section
shows the history of migration and settlement, the second
examines religious and intellectual history, the third is
dedicated to Swiss political history and the fourth section
focusses on economy. For most exhibits explanations in
English are available. There are temporary exhibitions on
changing topics (see Culture & Events section of this guide).
iPad guides in English and other languages available (5Sfr).
QE-2, Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44
218 65 11, www.musee-suisse.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00,
Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/8Sfr.
Playfully discover science
T he most e xc it ing Sw iss Family- Center
Play with science (from babies to adults)
The ‘factory‘ (Chocolate, Labor, cooking, cars, creative)
Outdoor area with driving school
Themed restaurant and Edustore
From Zürich Mainstation – S-Bahn S9 or S14 (15 minutes) · Open 363 days a year
Chlirietstrasse 12 | 8604 Volketswil ZH | www.kindercity.ch
y
Fac tor r vat ion
Re s e 3 0 6 0
4
0 43 20
April - May 2015
37
Sightseeing
Sightseeing
Artists, scientists, political
visionaries - Zurich has
been home to some of the
greatest and most original
minds of the last century
or two. You can follow their
footsteps, see many of
the houses they lived and
worked in and the graves
where they are laid to rest.
We’ve listed the sites for
you, which also include
museums and even a pub!
The genius par excellence, Albert Einstein,
studied natural sciences from 1896 to 1900 at the
Polytechnikum, today’s Federal Institute of Technology
(ETH), where he later became professor before being
awarded the Nobel prize in physics in 1921. Among the
new arrivals fleeing the First World War were Marxists
and future Russian revolutionaries Lenin and his wife
Nadezhda Krupskaya who spent a year of their exile
in Zurich. The couple Emmy Hennings and Hugo
Ball were to trigger a revolution right in the middle
of Zurich itself: the anti-everything art movement
Dada. Both active on stage, they were forced to leave
Germany in 1915 due to their criticism of the war.
Another war refugee, Irish author James Joyce, lived in
Zurich from 1915 to 1919, where he wrote large parts of
his modern classic Ulysses and also died in 1941 (photo
above shows his grave). The furnishings of the James
Joyce Pub are from the Jury pub in Dublin, mentioned
in Ulysses. Renegade psychoanalyst Carl Gustav Jung
worked at the Burghölzli psychiatric asylum in Zurich
from 1905 to 1909. Thomas Mann, author of epics
such as the Buddenbrocks and Nobel prize winner,
also had close ties to Zurich and died here in 1955. The
Thomas Mann Archive runs a small museum about his
life.
SITES AND ADDRESSES
ALBERT EINSTEIN
Memorial plaque, Unionsstrasse 4, 8Hottingerplatz
LENIN AND NADEZHDA KRUPSKAYA
Memorial plaque, Spiegelgasse 14, 8 Rathaus
DADA ART MOVEMENT
Cabaret Voltaire, Spiegelgasse 1, 8Rathaus
JAMES JOYCE
Memorial plaque, Universitätsstrasse 38, 8Haldenbach
James Joyce Foundation, www.joycefoundation.ch
Friedhof (Cemetery) Fluntern, Zürichbergstr. 189, 8Zoo
James Joyce Pub, Pelikanstrasse 8, 8 Rennweg
THOMAS MANN
Thomas-Mann-Archiv, Schönberggasse 15. Open Wed
& Sat 14:00 - 16:00, admission free. 8Kantonsschule
NONAM (NORTH AMERICA NATIVE MUSEUM)
The permanent exhibition of the North America Native
Museum shows over 700 objects like masks, boats or
totem poles from six regions in the USA and Canada. The
exhibitions’ aim is to render a better understanding of the
natives of North America and show the various ways the
Inuit, Indian and Métis groups lived from the arctic north
to the deserts in the southwest.QSeefeldstrasse 317,
8Tiefenbrunnen, tel. +41 43 499 24 40, www.nonam.
ch. Open 13:00 - 17:00, Sat & Sun 10:00 - 17:00, closed
Mon. Admission 12/8/4Sfr, families 20Sfr.
GARDENS & PARKS
CHINESE GARDEN (CHINAGARTEN)
Ok, if you’re looking for authentic Swiss culture, this might
catch you off-guard. The full-blown Chinese garden was
opened in 1994 as a gift from Zurich’s Chinese sister city
Kunming in gratitude for the help Zurich provided in
restoring Kunming’s water facilities.The garden’s major
theme are the so-called Three Friends of Winter, the pine
tree, the bamboo and the plum. The garden is surrounded
by a red wall with a unmistakeably Chinese roof.QG-7,
Bellerivestrasse 144, 8Fröhlichstrasse, tel. +41 44 380
31 51. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Admission 4/1Sfr.
CHURCHES
See main sights at the beginning of this chapter for the
churches Fraumünster and Grossmünster.
ST. PETER
St. Peter church is the one with the huge clock-faces on
all four sides of the tower you can spot from far away. The
diameter of the clock-faces is almost 9 metres - they are
said to be the biggest in Europe. The first mayor of Zurich,
Rudolf Brun, was buried here in 1360 - a copy of his tomb
stone can be seen on the northern side of the church. The
nave of the church was finished in 1706, while the choir
and the tower date from a Romanesque church built in
1230.QE-4, St.-Peter-Hofstatt, 8Paradeplatz. Open
08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
SIGHTSEEING TOURS
Augustinergasse in the old town - picture postcard Zurich at its
www.juanrubiano.com
best.
Financed by smokers: the awesome Patumbah park and villa.
PD
VILLA & PARK PATUMBAH
Smoking does have its advantages. This opulent villa was
financed by smokers - it was built by Carl Fürchtegott Grob
who made his huge fortune with tobacco plantations in
South-East Asia. For his home in Zurich he hired architects
Chiodera and Tschudy in the 1880s and provided them with
an almost infinite budget. The result was a magnificent villa
with an explosion of styles - Baroque, Gothic and Italian
Renaissance blend organically with ornamental elements
from East Asia. After long years of neglect, the villa has
been painstakingly restored and is now home of the
Swiss Heritage Society (www.heimatschutzzentrum.ch)
and partly open to the public, as is the English landscape
garden surrounding it. Pick up one of the wooden chairs,
find a sunny spot and enjoy a moment of bliss - you
could even have a smoke.QI-7, Zolllikerstrasse 128,
8Fröhlichstrasse. Park open 06:00 - 22:00, villa open
14:00 - 17:00, Thu & Sun 12:00 - 17:00, Mon & Tue closed.
Public tour incl. a visit to the second level of the villa
every Thu 12:30. Admission to the villa 10/5Sfr, park free.
BEST OF ZURICH - ZÜRICH CITY TOUR
A city tour in an air-conditioned coach - including a
short stroll through the old town and a ride with the
Dolderbahn rack-and-pinion railway up into the residential
area Zürichberg. In little more than two hours you get to
see Bahnhofstrasse and the financial district, the old guild
houses and the universities. There is a live commentary
in English and German, audioguides in Spanish, Russian,
Chinese and Japanese available.QE-1, Bus Terminal
Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai / HB, tel. +41 44 710 50 50,
www.switzerland-tours.ch. Starts daily 13:00 at the
NORDAMERIK A NATIVE MUSEUM
Indianer & Inuit Kulturen
Fascinating insights
into the worlds of
Native Americans,
First Nations and Inuit
City of Zurich
Seefeldstr. 317, www.nonam.ch
bus terminal Sihlquai next to the main train station.
Tickets available on the spot, reservation by phone
recommended. Tickets 34/17Sfr.
SEGWAY CITY TOURS
Explore Zurich on a Segway - a two-wheeled, selfbalancing electric vehicle. This slightly eccentric guided
tour in English and German takes two and a half hours
and includes a 40-minute instruction on how to drive
the Segway. There are several stops on the lake, on
Bahnhofstrasse and Limmatquai. Minimum age is 16 and
you need a driving licence (car/motorbike).Qtel. +41 848
734 929, www.segwaycitytours.ch. Every Sat & Sun at
14:00. Book by phone at least one day in advance. Check
their website for more tours and tours on weekdays, 89 109Sfr. Private tours (from 4 persons) are available daily
(150Sfr p.P.).
STORIES OF THE OLD TOWN - GUIDED WALK
A professional guide will take you on this two-hour
walk through the old town of Zurich. Discover the city’s
history and listen to anecdotes from its past in English
and German. Good choice if you really want to see the
old town, where the bus tours can’t go. For other walks
ask at the tourist service at the main station. Reservation
by phone recommended.QE-2, Tourist Service Main
Train Station, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 215 40 00,
www.zuerich.com. Starts at the tourist service at the
main railway station. Daily 15:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 &
15:00. 25/12.50Sfr, 50% discount with ZürichCARD.
NONAM
MEET JOYCE, LENIN & CO
April - May 2015
39
Old-town stroll
Shopping
at the top of Marktgasse and now you’re on the main
throughway of pedestrian Niederdorf, the other part of the
old town. On the right is Cabaret Voltaire, from where
the Dada movement - jolifanto bambla o falli bambla - set
off to confuse the bourgeoisie in 1916.
A little further on to the left, set back in a little courtyard, is
Schober, a richly decorated sweets and pastry shop worth at
least a quick visit. Directly opposite are Schwarzenbach coffee
roasters - the irresistible smell gets even better if you stick your
nose inside. Strolling further along Münstergasse you pass the
Bodega Española on your right, where in the 1950s author
Max Frisch used to drop in for a beer and a few tapas.
In the old town you will always find some picturesque views.
AM
Zurich’s old town snuggles up to both banks of the River
Limmat, so our old-town stroll does much the same and
heads upstream, crossing two bridges and passing a third.
We set off at the bridge named after Zurich’s first mayor,
Rudolf-Brun Brücke, which is easily reached from
Bahnhofstrasse or by walking along the Limmat (down
Bahnhofquai) from the main train station. At the bridge’s
south-western corner, just by the Swiss handicrafts shop,
head down the steps to the metal walkway leading
upstream along the Limmat, almost touching the water
(Heiri-Steg). Soon you’re on a cobbled street (Schipfe), with
some miniature antiques shops and boutiques on the right
and the restaurant Schipfe 16, a work project for
unemployed and well worth a quick stop, on the left.
A few steps along you’re at Zurich’s landmark Romanesque
- style abbey, the somewhat austere Grossmünster
with its double towers and their rather unique, Neo-Gothic
spires added in the 18th century. Looking towards the river,
the third bridge, Münsterbrücke, appears and the graceful
Fraumünster Abbey is visible across the Limmat. Take the
steps from the Grossmünster courtyard down to the
Wasserkirche and the Helmhaus art gallery by the river
and then cross the bridge to Fraumünster (see page 34)
to gaze at the famous stained-glass windows by Chagall.
You’ve seen all the really important parts of Zurich’s old
town now and can finish off with one of Zurich’s other
major attractions - the lake - which is just five minutes’ walk
further along the river.
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Zurich has the reputation of a shopping city, even if not
quite that of London or Milano. Especially Bahnhofstrasse is
well known around the globe as one of the most exclusive
and expensive shopping streets in the world. For Swiss and
urban design, the area around Langstrasse is a good spot. In
the way of shopping malls, Switzerland can’t match other
European countries where huge centres are the order of the
day. But maybe that’s a good thing. The Sihlcity shopping
centre, an easily reachable mall opened in 2007, is an
example of an innovative development - without being a
giant. The malls and best shopping areas of the city are listed
here together with other remarkable shops. Remember all
shops are closed on Sundays except at the railway stations.
Just after Schipfe 16 take the climb up to Lindenhof (see
page 35), just turn right and up Fortunagasse and then left
into Lindenhof with its tall trees, one of the oldest parts of
Zurich. The mediaeval German kings would stop over here
and the Romans also occupied the spot in their day and age.
Take in the view over the parapet or play with the royals who
are always here, in one of the games of outdoor chess.
Leaving Lindenhof opposite from where you entered (down
Pfalz-Gasse), there’s a copy of the Roman tombstone which
mentions Turicum (Zurich) on your right, set in the wall.
The main shopping areas are:
Bahnhofstrasse (E-2/5)The Bahnhofstrasse leads from the
main railway station to the lake and is mostly a pedestrian
area almost without traffic - but watch out for the trams! It’s
world-famous for its luxury stores: find jewellery, watches
and designer boutiques as well as the big department
stores Jelmoli, Globus and Manor here. In recent years not to
everyone’s pleasure more and more big foreign companies
like Apple have opened stores on Bahnhofstrasse
displacing some traditional Zurich companies - some say
Bahnhofstrasse is losing its atmosphere. Nevertheless a walk
down this famous street is a must for every shopping fan.
Wander into the side streets as well, where shops are no less
luxurious and some more unusual little gems are hidden.
Ahead of you is the church tower of St. Peter (see page
39), our next destination situated on one of Zurich’s most
peaceful squares (St. Peterhofstatt). Going left, either of the
alleys (Weggengasse or Thermengasse) gets you to the
second bridge, Rathausbrücke, also known as the
vegetable bridge because of the small fruit & veg market
held here on Saturdays.
On the other end of the bridge you have the Rathaus, the
town hall, to your right and the Rathaus café to your left.
Our rigorous ramble takes us straight ahead, across the
tram lines on Limmatquai and into Marktgasse, where
you’ll find one of Zurich’s prettiest flower shops. Turn right
Niederdorf (F-3/4) Even if Niederdorf - the part of the old
town east of the river Limmat - is better known for dining
and nightlife than for shopping, it’s well worth expanding
your shopping tour into this quarter. Along the streets
Limmatquai and Niederdorfstrasse - both pedestrian areas
- you will find smaller shops with up-to-date street wear,
fancy shoes and fashion stores. The smaller alleys are also
well worth a peek.
Old Town (E-3/4) The old town between
Bahnhofstrasse and the River Limmat is another
shopping area not to miss. Try the pedestrian street
Rennweg for example with its international clothing
brands and boutiques or Storchengasse with its luxury
designer stores, a genuine Zurich toys shop as well as
cutlery and souvenir shops.
OPENING HOURS
Many shops on and around Bahnhofstrasse are open
Mon to Fri 09:00 - 19:00 / 20:00. Smaller shops
including jewellers and shops outside the centre often
close at 18:30, some are closed on Monday mornings.
On Saturdays most shops open from 09:00 - 17:00
(or 18:00, department stores until 20:00). On Sundays
all shops are closed (except in train and petrol
stations). Banking hours are Mon - Fri 08:30 - 16:30.
April - May 2015
41
Shopping
Shopping
BOOKS & MUSIC
&/(-*4)#00,4
ORELL FÜSSLI - THE BOOKSHOP
Zurich‘s biggest English-language bookshop: over
40,000 fictional and non-fictional books, magazines,
audio books and DVDs on three floors - and all in
English. There is a strong children‘s section with a
children’s reading every first Saturday of the month.
QE-3, Bahnhofstrasse 70, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44
211 04 44, www.books.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
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DEPARTMENT STORES
GLOBUS
The Globus is a classic and stylish department store on
Bahnhofstrasse: on six levels you can find everything for
your beauty, the latest fashion from brands like Esprit,
Marco Polo, Strellson and Dockers, shoes, watches,
jewellery, travel bags, lingerie and much more. After
strolling through the stories take a break in the pleasant
restaurant on the top floor or have a drink in the bar just
next to the entrance towards Bahnhofstrasse.QE-2/3,
Schweizergasse 11, 8Bahnhofstrasse / Hauptbahnhof,
tel. +41 44 226 60 60, www.globus.ch. Open 09:00 20:00. Closed Sun.
MANOR
Manor is probably the most casual of the trinity of
department stores on Bahnhofstrasse. It specialises in
young and casual fashion and mainly sells its own brands
- though they have something for everyone’s needs.
Besides that there are departments for beauty, sports,
household and home electronics. And last but not least a
very popular and excellent self-service restaurant on the
top floor.QE-3, Bahnhofstrasse 75, 8Bahnhofstrasse,
tel. +41 44 229 56 99, www.manor.ch. Open 09:00 20:00. Closed Sun.
LOOQ
A cool shop for avant-garde luxury fashion: special patterns
and unusual materials by brands like Yohji Yamamoto,
Annette Görtz, Hannoh und Yukai.QF-4, Kirchgasse 3,
8Helmhaus, tel. +41 43 233 03 30, www.looq.ch. Open
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed.
NEW
PEPE JEANS
Pepe Jeans is a clothing brand that made its name with its
trademark blue jeans in the 70ies. Over the decades they
have diversified and now have full fashion collections for
men, women and children, including knitwear, shirts, shoes
and much more. You can find all of it in their Zurich flagship
store, including their still very genuine jeans of course.
QF-4, Schifflände 5, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 43 343 97 70,
www.pepejeans.com.
BOUTIQUE ROMA
Roma is the boutique for clothing by international avantgarde designers like Rick Owens, Dries van Noten und
Ann Demeulemeester. They feature men’s and women’s
wear and take pride in traditional handicraft and exquisite
materials.QE-3, Pelikanstrasse 6/8, 8Rennweg, tel. +41
44 222 18 80, www.boutique-roma.ch. Open 09:30 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
NEW
ZARA
Spanish label Zara offers its clothing for a young and
fashion-conscious clientele on several storeys in their own
store right on Bahnhofstrasse. They have collections for
men, women and kids and they change them fast, making
sure they’re always up to date with the latest trends.QE-3,
Bahnhofstrase 66, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 210 07 42,
www.zara.com.
MALLS
& SHOPPING CENTRES
EINKAUFSZENTRUM GLATT
This is Switzerland’s biggest shopping mall: find almost
100 shops on 43,000m². Besides two departement stores,
all kinds of fashion, nine restaurants and everything for
your kids, there are also branches of Zurich’s famous watch
stores and jewellers. It’s located just outside the city limits,
FASHION
BERNIE’S DONNA
Bernie’s stylish collections are infused with an Italian
elegance, in this store for women only. They definitely
have a cool selection, but not on the cheap side.QD-3,
Usteristrasse 14, 8Löwenplatz, tel. +41 58 426 10 52,
www.bernies.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Thu 09:30 - 20:00,
Sat 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
REC REC
The Recommended Records store has all the rock music
you have been looking for and plenty you haven’t
heard of yet in store - and it’s been going for 30 years
now. There isn’t just rock, but everything from classic
to jazz, ambient, electronica, ethno and world music.
All the news of the month on a list, search service and
delivery around the globe - a true jewel, this store.
QC-2, Rotwandstrasse 64, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41
44 291 46 60, www.recrec-shop.ch. Open 11:00 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun & Mon closed.
Worth it just for the mirror: boutique Roma.
but it’s easy to get there: take the S3, S9 or S12 train to
Stettbach and from there tram 12 to the stop Glatt.QNeue
Winterthurerstrasse 99, Wallisellen, 8Glatt, tel. +41 44
839 42 42, www.glatt.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun closed.
IM VIADUKT
More than 30 shops and a market hall for groceries nestled
under the arches of a railway viaduct built in the 19th century.
Not a classic shopping mall but a street with one shop after
another. The emphasis is on small and trendy fashion labels
rather than the big luxury brands, studios and concept
stores.QL-6/M-6, Limmatstrasse 259, 8Dammweg,
www.im-viadukt.ch. Closed Sun.
At Viadukt the shops are located beneath the railway tracks.
PD
OUTDOOR CLOTHING
& SPORTS
NEW
ARC’TERYX PARTNERSTORE
At Arc’teryx by Perlavia in the Viadukt shopping street
they sell top-notch outdoor clothing and gear with style.
The main brand they stock is the Canadian Arc’teryx. Be it
shell jackets, insulated jackets, base or midlayer clothing,
footwear or backpacks, you’ll find it all here. Another
thing they specialize in is foldable kayaks of the brand
Feathercraft (Canadian as well) - light to carry and up for
almost every expedition. Another reason to stop by before
your next outdoor adventure.QL-6, Viaduktstrasse 33,
8Dammweg, tel. +41 44 322 33 27, www.arcteryx.ch.
Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun.
PD
PKZ WOMEN
The moving visuals by Julian Opie on the 50 sqm LED screen
in the store window make sure you can’t miss the PKZ
Women flagship store. On four storeys and sorted by affinities,
women can find almost anything they might be looking
for: brands like Polo Ralph Lauren, Paul & Joe, See by Chloé,
Armani, Diesel and many more, as well as shop in shops by
Tommy Hilfiger and Dorothee Schumacher. The new heaven
for fashionistas on Bahnhofstrasse.QE-3, Bahnhofstrasse 88,
8Bahnhofstrasse / HB, tel. +41 44 225 11 11, www.pkz.ch.
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun closed.
ARC’TERYX PARTNERSTORE
VIADUKTSTRASSE 33 / BOGEN 27
8005 ZÜRICH
MONDAY TILL FRIDAY 11H00 – 19H00
SATURDAY 10H00 – 18H00
PHONE 044 322 33 27
WWW.ARCTERYX.CH
April - May 2015
43
Shopping
GUESS ZURICH
Guess has its own flagship
store in Zurich - and yes,
it is the biggest in the
country. In the middle of
the Niederdorf they display
the Guess and Guess by Marciano collections on more
than 500sqm and over two storeys, for both men
and women: jeans, garments, shoes, accessories like
sunglasses, watches, jewellery, lingerie and perfume the full range of Guess goods is on show and on sale.
QF-3, Marktgasse 12, 8Rathaus, tel. +41 43 343 95
71, www.guess.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Fri 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun.
Shopping
NEW
TA-BOU
At Ta-Bou they sell bikinis the whole year round. And
not just any bikinis, but their very own ones! This family
business has been successfully designing and producing
bikinis and swimsuits since 1978. And you can buy each
top or bottom piece individually so you can combine
them according to your taste - or size. In their shop it feels
like summer anytime of the year.QE-3, Kuttelgasse 7,
8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 221 08 11, www.ta-bou.com.
Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed.
SOUVENIRS
OCH SPORT
At Och Sport you’ll find just about everything for any kind
of sports on three storeys: tennis, badminton, trekking,
running, skiing, swimming and much more - they have it
all. On top of this huge choice, there is also fashion and
outerwear - but sports definitely comes first here.QE-3,
Bahnhofstrasse 56, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 215 21 21,
www.ochsport.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun closed.
More than just knives - the Victorinox flagship store.
PD
EDELWEISS SHOP
At the Edelweiss shop, they have a huge choice of
souvenirs and gifts including clothing (with lots of Swiss
crosses of course!), toys, bags, watches army knives and
much more. The shop is situated at the exit of the big hall
of the main railway station towards Bahnhofstrasse. They
feautre brands like Swiss Military and Alpine Club.QE-2,
Bahnhofplatz, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 43 497 23 80,
www.edelweiss-shops.ch. Open 08:00 - 21:30.
Time to take up sport again
ALPRAUSCH
Founded in the year 2000 by Swiss snowboard pioneer
Andy Tanner, Alprausch (alpine high) designs stylish street
and sportswear. Browse through their latest collection in
their flagship store close to Bahnhofstrasse. Take home
one of their t-shirts as a souvenir from Switzerland - a good
alternative to chocolate, we think.QE-3, Werdmühleplatz
4, 8Bahnhofstrasse / Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 43 497 32
00, www.alprausch.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 17:00. Closed Sun.
MESSER-SCHARF
Pocket knives are part of Swiss cultural heritage, and
messer-scharf takes great pride in this heritage. You’ll find an
extensive range of knives and other products by Victorinox
and Wenger, such as kitchen implements, watches or
rucksacks. Messer-scharf also stock high-end kitchen knives
by Chroma.QF-4, Oberdorfstrasse 25, 8Helmhaus, tel.
+41 44 251 01 20, www.messer-scharf.ch. Open 09:30 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
SCHWEIZER HEIMATWERK
Swiss handcrafted souvenirs of high quality: fashion
accessories, toys, bells, books and fondue sets all with lots
of Swiss crosses, red and white colours, cows and edelweiss.
Sister shop at Bahnhofstrasse 2.QE-3, Uraniastrasse
1, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. +41 44 222 19 55,
www.heimatwerk.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 18:00. Closed Sun.
VICTORINOX FLAGSHIP STORE
This is the brand new flagship store by Victorinox, the
Swiss family business of world renown. They may be
best known for their Swiss army knives, but they also
produce other high-quality items like cutlery, watches,
travel gear and fashion - which is all in stock at this store
of course. At the Knife Assembly Station you can even
make your own unique Swiss army knife by choosing
size, functions and colours. A special souvenir or
gift!QE-3, Rennweg 58, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 229
60 70, www.victorinox.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
09:30 - 18:30, Sun closed.
Bahnhofstrasse 56, Zürich
www.ochsport.ch
SWISS DESIGN
MENG CUTLERY
Meng Cutlery just off Bahnhofstrasse offers classic Swiss
souvenirs such as army knives by the famous brands
Victorinox and Wenger. Also in stock: other knives, scissors,
watches and more ideas for gifts to take home. Sister shop
at Poststrasse 4 (E-4).QE-3, Rennweg 31, 8Rennweg,
tel. +41 44 211 18 48, www.mengcutlery.ch. Open 09:00
- 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
SHOES & ACCESSORIES
OXBLOOD SHOES
This store is for shoe aficionados. They mainly have
top-quality business shoes on offer, most of them
made of Shell Cordovan leather (from a particular
part of a horsehide only) for a special rich and glossy
look. Only exclusive shoemakers use this leather
from the Chicago leather company Horween: Ludwig
Reiter, Cordwanier and Allen Edmonds for example.
Needless to say the shoes at Oxblood don’t come
cheap. But true quality has its price, always.QD-2,
Europaallee 19, 8Sihlpost / HB, tel. +41 44 240 51
51, www.oxbloodshoes.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed.
TEDDY’S SOUVENIR-SHOP
At Teddy’s they have a wide
range of souvenirs and gifts.
Whether it’s clocks, cowbells,
hats, music boxes, soft toys,
pocket knives or clothes you’re
after: you’ll find it all at their shop
on Limmatquai, just next to the church Grossmünster.
And it’s not just souvenirs of Zurich, like beer
glasses with the city’s coat of arms, but from all over
Switzerland. For example the sännechutte, a traditional
shirt worn by alpine herdsmen since days of yore. And
yes, the souvenir shop is open even on Sundays.QF-4,
Limmatquai 34, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 44 261 22 89,
www.teddyssouvenirshop.ch. Open 08:30 - 20:00,
Sat 08:30 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
April - May 2015
45
Shopping
Watches & Jewellery
SWISS CHOCOLATE
Max Chocolatier
HONOLD LA CONFISERIE
Since 1905 Honold Confiserie has been producing
chocolate, cakes and pastries just next to
Bahnhofstrasse. Their chocolate cake and the
birchermüesli (oat flakes with fruits and yoghurt) are
also well-known.QE-3, Rennweg 53, 8Rennweg,
tel. +41 44 211 52 58, www.honold.ch. Open 07:30
- 18:30, Sat 07:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
CARAN D’ACHE
Caran d’ Ache is the renowned Swiss producer of writing
instruments. In their Zurich boutique you will find their
entire collection - everything from pens, pencils, markers
and fountain pens to paints and paint brushes. Their boxes
of colour pencils are a classic present for children, but you
can also just treat yourself to one of the elegant pens.
QD-3, Löwenstrasse 19, 8Löwenplatz, tel. +41 44 273
90 00, www.carandache.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Mon
10:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Switzerland is the country of watches - yet another
cliché? Actually, it couldn’t be more true. More than 95%
of all watches with a value of over 1000Sfr are made
in Switzerland! The Swiss watch industry started off in
Geneva around 1600, founded by Huguenots who had
fled France. Zurich however is a prime shopping spot for
watches today. Wheter on busy Bahnhofstrasse or in a
quieter corner, you will find a huge selection of brands
and models here. The next couple of pages will guide
you!
SWISS FOOD
AIRBIJOUX
Fine selection of watches at the lake end of Bahnhofstrasse:
e.g. Baume & Mercier, Charriol and Eterna.QE-4,
Bahnhofstrasse 1, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. +41 44 212 21
71, www.airbijoux.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 17:00, Sun closed.
BERG UND TAL
Located in Zurich’s first market hall in the Viadukt shopping
mall, Berg und Tal - literally mountain and valley - sells
delicacies and specialities from all over Switzerland.
Sausages from the mountains, pasta from Ticino, syrups,
jam, fruit liquor, cheese...and much more. As you’re here,
stroll through the rest of the hall as well, as there are many
more food specialities to explore.QL-6, Limmatstrasse
231 (Im Viadukt), 8Dammweg, tel. +41 44 271 21 61,
www.berg-tal.ch. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
MAX CHOCOLATIER
Originating from Lucerne, Max Chocolatier now
offer their sweet 100% natural delicacies in Zurich
too - as shop-in-shop inside the Globus department
store at Bellevue. They sell chocolates and pralines of
outstanding quality. The chocolatiers actually make the
treats by hand, whether it’s bars of dark Madagascan
chocolate with pumpkin seeds, creamy caramel
delicacies or their own chocolate spread.QF-5, Globus
Bellevue, Theaterstrasse 12, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 58
578 67 33, www.maxchocolatier.com. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun closed.
VOLLENWEIDER CHOCOLATIER CONFISEUR
This confectioner’s home town is Winterthur, but his
first Zurich shop is an enrichment for the lovers of
sweets in town. Macaroons, truffes, small chocolate
candies - they have it all. And much more.QG-5,
Theaterstrasse 1, 8Opernhaus, tel. +41 43 288 04
04, www.vollenweiderchocolatier.ch. Open 08:00 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Sun closed.
Switzerland has some fine regional sausage specialities
- eg. at Berg und Tal.
CHRIST WATCHES & JEWELRY
With more than 80 shops, CHRIST is the biggest jeweler
in Switzerland. Find top watch brands like Rado, Tag
Heuer, Certina, Frederique Constant and their very own
CHRIST Swiss Made as well as many fashion jewels. There
are sister shops at the department stores St. Annahof
(Bahnhofstrasse 57, E-3) and Jelmoli (Seidengasse 1, E-3).
QE-3, Bahnhofstrasse 78, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. +41 44
212 14 47, www.christ-swiss.ch. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Fine jewellery on display at Christ.
PD
DEGUSSA GOLDHANDEL (GOLD & SILVER)
At Degussa, you can invest in gold and silver and other
basic materials. They have their trademark bars and ingots
on stock for you - choose them in their exclusive Zurich
showroom. Their gold bars for example come in sizes from
1 to 1000 grams, the ones up to a size of 100 grams are
minted, the heavier ones come in the classic cast form.
Other than gold and silver they sell rhodium, platinum and
palladium bars and many investment coins from around
the world.QD-5, Bleicherweg 41, 8Tunnelstrasse, tel.
+41 44 403 41 10, www.degussa-goldhandel.ch. Open
09:00 - 17:00, Sat & Sun closed.
PD
PRETÔT DELIKATESSEN
It‘s all about sausages here: smoked, dried, for boiling coming from all the different corners of Switzerland, straight
to the heart of Zurich.QE-3, Kuttelgasse 3, 8Rennweg,
tel. +41 44 221 05 33, www.lafinebouche.ch.
Open 09:00 -18:30, Mon 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00,
Sun closed.
ON THE ENTIRE SELEC TION OF WATCHES AND
JE W EL RY. VA L ID UNTIL JUNE 3 0, 2 015,
IN A L L CHRIS T SHOPS. IN ZURICH AT BA HN HOFS TR A SSE 78, JEL M OL I, S T. A NN A HOF.
Globus Bellevue, Zurich
Come and taste finest
Swiss chocolate!
HANDMADE . SWISS . 100% NATURAL . UNIQUE
www.christ-swiss.ch
Does not apply to special
orders, services, repairs or gift
certificates. Cannot be com bined with any other offers.
www.maxchocolatier.com
Say it with
April - May 2015
47
Watches & Jewellery
GÜBELIN
Since 1854 Gübelin have been selling jewellery, watches
and precious stones. You will find their own jewellery lines
New York, Madagascar, Paris and Atlantis as well as many
renowned watch brands such as Breguet and Jaeger Le
Coultre.QE-4, Bahnhofstrasse 36, 8Paradeplatz, tel.
+41 44 387 52 20, www.guebelin.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30,
Sat 09:00 - 17:00, closed Sun.
IWC BOUTIQUE
Swiss luxury watch manufacturer IWC Schaffhausen has
its very own Zurich boutique. Find their iconic automatic
watches, be it the pilot’s series or the diver’s watch family
and exclusive models only available in their flagship
stores. All presented in a hyper designed shop which
includes a relaxing lounge area.QE-3, Bahnhofstrasse
61, 8Rennweg, www.iwc.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat
10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed.
JORDI SWISS ICON
Swiss designer Michel Jordi presents his Jordi Swiss
Icon luxury watches in his flagship store. Two signature
elements recur in all the models, the Swiss cross on the
watch crown and the Swiss folklore inspired silhouette
ornamentation by Swiss artist Barthlomé Imobersteg. The
line also carries leather accessories, shirts and scarfs.QF-2,
Niederdorfstrasse 90, 8Central, tel. +41 44 251 23 27,
www.micheljordi.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun & Mon closed.
KURZ JEWELLERY AND WATCHES
Wide selection of mainly Swiss watches like Omega,
Zenith, Maurice Lacroix, Tissot, Rado and many more,
as well as a large selection of jewellery e.g. by H. Stern
and Chopard (sister shop at Globus, Schweizergasse 11,
outlet store on Uraniastrasse 26).QE-3, Bahnhofstrasse
80, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. +41 44 219 77 77,
www.kurzschmuckuhren.ch. Open 09:15 - 18:30, Sat
09:15 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
TAX FREE SHOPPING
As a foreign resident you are entitled
to a refund when making purchases
for more than 300Sfr (including VAT),
provided the goods leave the country
within 30 days. You will get back the
VAT, which in Switzerland is only 8%
- minus a handling fee. It’s as easy
as this: watch out for the Global Blue - Tax Free sign.
When paying, ask for a tax refund form. When leaving
Switzerland, present your purchases, receipts and
passport to Swiss customs officials. They will stamp
your tax refund form. To claim an immediate refund,
present your stamped tax refund form at a Global
Blue refund point (e.g. at Zurich Airport or all around
Europe). For more infos see www.global-blue.com.
MONTBLANC ZURICH
Watches, writing instruments and leather goods is what
built Montblanc’s world renown. And though the company
was founded in Germany it’s part of the Swiss Richemont
group now and the watches are manufactured in
Switzerland. In their exquisite boutique on Bahnhofstrasse
you will find the personal service you can expect of a brand
like Montblanc.QE-4, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 8Paradeplatz,
tel. +41 44 211 48 10, www.montblanc.ch. Open 09:30 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun.
Making time a value
since 1760
The display windows around Paradeplatz are full of luxury watches.
Zurich Tourism (GB)
PARTIME
This Swiss designer watch simultaneously shows the time
of day and how much of the day is left. The blue area within
a circle represents the amount of time still remaining in
the day, while a white area gradually eats into the blue.
Find it at the retailers indicated on page 50 - 51, order it in
the webshop, or ask for an express delivery to your hotel
(60Sfr.).Qtel. +41 44 445 14 55, www.partime.ch.
BEYER
For more than 250 years
Beyer has been selling
and repairing watches.
The family business is
now managed by the
eighth generation. Beyer
specializes in selling some of the world’s most soughtafter brands, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Breguet,
Hublot, IWC, Chopard and Cartier, as well as its own
Beyer brand. Guests are treated to first-class service, a
glass of champagne and delicious Sprüngli chocolates.
The goldsmiths at Beyer’s fine jewellery workshop
create exquisite customised pieces, for some royals
too. The neighbouring Patek Philippe boutique is also
managed by Beyer and offers a wide range of exclusive
timepieces.QE-4, Bahnhofstrasse 31, 8Paradeplatz,
tel. +41 43 344 63 63, www.beyer-ch.com. Open
09:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
«We only deal in watches
that will stand the test of time.
As, indeed, we have.»
René Beyer
Watches & Jewellery
Bahnhofstrasse 31 8001 Zurich beyer-ch.com
A. Lange & Söhne
Audemars Piguet
Balmain
Baume & Mercier
Bell & Ross
Beyer
Blancpain
Breguet
Breitling
Bulgari
Cartier
Certina
Charriol
Chopard
Corum
De Grisogono
Ebel
Eterna
Franck Muller
Girard Perregaux
Hublot
IWC Schaffhausen
Jaquet Droz
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jowissa
Longines
Louis Erard
Maurice Lacroix
Mido
Mondaine
Movado
Omega
Oris
Parmigiani Fleurier
Patek Philippe
Piaget
Quinting
Rado
Raymond Weil
Rolex
Swatch
Swiss Military
TAG Heuer
Tiffany
Tissot
Ulysse Nardin
Urwerk
Victorinox Swiss Army
Vulcain
Wenger
Zenith
Zurich Partime
Airbijoux, Bahnhofstrasse 1
Beyer, Bahnhofstrasse 31
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Bulgari, Bahnhofstrasse 25
Cartier Joailliers, Bahnhofstrasse 47
Chopard Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 40
Christ, Bahnhofstrasse 78
Christ at Jelmoli, Seidengasse 1
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Kurz, Bahnhofstrasse 80
La Serlas, Bahnhofstrasse 25
Les Ambassadeurs, Bahnhofstrasse 64
Meister Uhren, Bahnhofstrasse 33
Meng Cutlery, Poststrasse 4
Meng Cutlery, Rennweg 31
messer-scharf, Oberdorfstrasse 25
Omega Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 48
Oscar Stahel, Gerbergasse 5
Patek Philippe Boutique, Bahnhofstr. 31
Rolex Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 17
Swatch Store, Bahnhofstrasse 52
Tiffany & Co, Bahnhofstrasse 14
Tissot Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 94
Türler A., Paradeplatz
Visconti, Münstergasse 23
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Galli, Theaterstrasse 16
Feist Daniel, Seefeldstrassse 45
Dolmetsch, Limmatquai 126
Christian Goldschmiede, Limmatplatz 1
Bucherer, Bahnhofstrasse 50
Bourquin, Langstrasse 234
Affolter Max, Limmatquai 82
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April - May 2015
51
Zurich Nord
Zurich for kids
The part of the city behind the two hills Käferberg and
Zürichberg is commonly referred to as Zürich Nord. The
districts 7, 11 and 12 used to be independent villages and
merged with the city in 1934. Close to the airport they are now
home to many international companies, the trade fair, some
hotels and more and more restaurants and bars. You definitely
don’t have to go to the city centre (even though it’s close) to
have a good night out. Check out our favourites below:
RESTAURANTS
ASIAWAY
This place is not about atmosphere - it’s about great Asian
food. Order your favourite Vietnamese dishes and more
(fried noodles, generous soups, curries, crispy duck and the
likes) and you can watch the all-Vietnamese kitchen staff
prepare your dishes. Wash down the hot meals with one of
the Asian beers available and spoil yourself with a surprising
dessert afterwards.QO-2, Schwamendingenstrasse 10,
8Salersteig, tel. +41 44 310 80 08, www.asiaway.ch.
Open 11:00 -14:00, 17:30 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00,
closed Sun. (13 - 25Sfr). AB
TRES AMIGOS
The nine exisiting Tres Amigos restaurants prove the success
of the simple concept: tasty Texmex food and drinks in a
colorful Mexican setting including the compulsory sombrero
on the wall. The branch in Zurich Nord is much the same:
nachos, enchilladas, fajitas, tacos - it’s all there for you. As well
as meat like spare ribs or beef fillet skewers and sea food like
red snapper or shrimps. Good choice for a dinner or some
cocktails with your friends in this part of the town.QO-2,
Querstrasse 16, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. +41 44 311 82 52,
www.tresamigos.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Wed 07:00 - 24:00,
Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Kitchen
open all day until 22:30, Fri & Sat 23:30. (23 - 46Sfr). AB
ZIEGELHÜTTE
At the forest’s edge in Schwamendingen lies the
Ziegelhütte, a real country inn within the city limits. On
the menu you’ll find - surprise surprise - good, rustic dishes
like älplermagronen (maccaroni and potatoes with cream
and ham), schnitzel and risotto. You can feel that they like
what they do here. Take tram N°7 (direction Stettbach) to
Schwamendingerplatz, from there it’s an easy 8-minute
walk. Or coming from the centre, hike there through the
forest in little more than 30 minutes, starting at the zoo.
Brunch buffet on sunday mornings.QHüttenkopfstrasse
70, 8Schwamendingerplatz, tel. +41 44 322 40 03,
www.wirtschaft-ziegelhuette.ch. Open 09:30 - 22:30,
Fri & Sat 09:30 - 23:30, Sun 09:30 - 21:00, Mon closed.
Occasional concerts in the hall. AB
Are we there yet?! Children have their own idea of how
to have a good time and stylish bars or Gothic cathedrals
may not exactly do the trick. But no fear, there’s plenty
to do with children in Zurich. Find more suggestions on
www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.
ZOOS & PARKS
KINDERCITY
Kindercity is a science city for children aged 1 to 12, much
more hands-on than a museum - and when did you last
do bungee-jumping in a museum? Different so-called
knowledge lanes are dedicated to topics like the human
body, renewable energy or modern communication, using
sight, sound, smell and action to let children discover,
accompanied by an adult. There is a café, open-air play
areas, magic trains and a car driving school on the roof
for under-aged drivers - and much more. From Zurich,
take trains S9 or S14 (direction Hinwil/Uster), change at
Schwerzenbach to bus N°725, get off at Volkiland, Chliriet
(duration: 22 minutes).QChlirietstrasse 12, Volketswil,
tel. +41 43 204 30 60, www.kindercity.ch. Open daily
10:00 - 18:00. Daypass (cinema and knowledge lanes)
27.50Sfr., activities can also be booked separately e.g.
knowledge lane 14.50Sfr (17.50 adults).
NIGHTLIFE
Asiaway has all the Vietnamese specialities like Pho soup.
PD
CHEYENNE
The Cheyenne is the place for American food in Zurich
Nord: big burgers, spare ribs and Mexican-style burritos are
its specialities. Sit at large tables and watch all the important
football and ice hockey games on the screens. The signed
NHL T-shirt of the famous Swiss player Mark Streit on the
wall is Cheyenne‘s pride. A venue for lads and expats.
QO-2, Querstrasse 3, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. +41 44
313 90 90, www.cheyenne-oerlikon.ch. Open 09:00 24:00. Kitchen open until 22:00, Tue - Sat until 23:00.
Brunch on Sat & Sun 09:00 - 16:00. (23 - 38Sfr). AB
GIESSEREI
The Giesserei has made itself a name as a fine dining
restaurant, though the place still looks like the last workers
just left this ancient foundry a couple of weeks ago.
The menu is simple: every day there are a few different
starters, main courses and desserts - an international
mix according to the season and the desires of the
kitchen crew. Recommended.QN-2, Birchstrasse 108,
8Regensbergerbrücke, tel. +41 43 205 10 10,
www.diegiesserei.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 24:00,
Sat 17:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:30 (brunch). (3 courses
approx. 40 - 80Sfr). AB
COOPER’S PUB
Located just next to Oerlikon train station, the Cooper’s
with its whiskey barrels and dark wooden floor and
panels, brings an Irish pub feel to this part of town. They
of course have Murphy’s Red and Guinness on tap, all
the sports on TV and and serve really affordable and we
have to say delicious burgers (13 - 21Sfr). There are also
some steak variations, pies and salads on the menu.
QSchaffhauserstrasse 359, 8Sternen Oerlikon,
tel. +41 76 261 00 30, www.coopers-pub.ch. Open
15:00 - 24:00, Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:45 - 02:00, Sun
13:45 - 22:00. BK
GLEIS 9
Located in an old brick building, Track 9 is a bar and
bistro close to the Oerlikon train station. We particularly
like the separate bar room, but the Swiss lunch deals
like bratwurst (veal sausage) with potato salad, pasta,
grilled Italian sandwiches and curries are not bad
either. The evening menu offers tartar and cordon
bleu. For a more sophisticated dining experience move
over to their restaurant Perron 9.QN-2, Affolternstr.
52, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. +41 43 288 94 44,
www.gleis9.ch. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun closed.
(24 - 30Sfr). ABKX
RESTAURANTS
PIZZA PASTA CIAO!
This restaurant has a playroom for kids with a baby sitter.
So you can enjoy their classic Italian food all the way to the
espresso and be sure your kids are having fun too. The menu
features everything that comes to your mind when you think
Italy: from home-made pasta to pizza to meat like filetto di
manzo (beef filet).QI-5, Asylstrase 125, 8Klusplatz, tel.
+41 43 499 07 12, www.pizzapastaciao.ch. Open 10:30 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun 18:00 - 24:00.
SHOPS
FRANZ CARL WEBER
Never-ending toy shop on four floors with virtually
anything you might be looking for, includes books and
a pizzeria.QE-3, Bahnhofstrasse 62, 8Rennweg, tel.
+41 44 225 78 78, www.fcw.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30,
Thu & Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
MOGLI CHINDERLADE
This charming little shop sells clothes for children up to ten
years, colourful, cheeky and never run-of-themill. Many of
the brands like Lana, frugi or Selana are ecologically and
socially responsible.QE-3, Schipfe 39, 8Rennweg, tel.
+41 44 211 58 87, www.mogli-chinderlade.ch. Open
10:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun & Mon.
WELCOME TO THE MOST
FAMOUS PARADISE OF TOYS
FOR CHILDREN, SINCE 1881.
Hello World! We can call you from Kindercity!
PD
ZURICH ZOO
Zurich Zoo is located on Zürichberg high above the city.
The pride of this zoological garden which was opened
in 1929 is the Masoala Rainforest hall, simulating the
ecosystem in the Masoala National park in Madagascar
on some 10,000sqm. Animals like lemurs or giant tortoises
can move freely around in the hall as you watch and walk
by on a path through the forest. Keep your eyes peeled,
probably a chameleon is sitting on a branch right next to
you. But the rainforest is not the only thing worth seeing.
Since 1992 Zurich Zoo has gradually been changing the
traditional-style enclosures into whole ecosystems which
better meet the animals’ needs, e.g. an Indian dry forest for
the lions or Himalaya mountains for snow leopards, wolves,
and Siberian tigers.QJ-1, Zürichbergstrasse 221, 8Zoo,
tel. +41 848 96 69 83, www.zoo.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Masoala hall opens at 10:00. Admission 22/16 (16 - 25
years)/11Sfr.
Bahnhofstrasse
Zürich,versüssen.
www.fcw.ch
Spielsachen, 62,
die8001
Träume
April - May 2015
53
Day trips
Day trips
If you have some more time on your hands you might
want to explore a bit further afield and leave Zurich for a
day. With the warm weather here, it’s time to discover
Switzerland’s stunning landscapes. Many scenic destinations
also offer cultural sites. We’ve put together a selection of our
favourites. And there are plenty of other options to consider
such as museums, monasteries and thermal baths.
ANIMAL PARKS
KNIES KINDERZOO
Situated on the other end of Lake Zurich, this zoo
which belongs to the Swiss national circus Knie is all
laid out for kids. There are around 400 animals of 44
species, and kids and interested parents can touch and
stroke many of them. It’s possible to ride ponies, camels
and even elephants. Apart from that there is a sea
lion show and a big adventure playground. Combine
the trip with a cruise on the lake and get there by
ship!QOberseestrasse, Rapperswil, tel. +41 55 220 67
60, www.knieskinderzoo.ch. Take the trains S5 or S15
with destination Rapperswil (40 minutes). Open 09:00
- 18:00, March 7 - Oct 31, 2015. Admission 19/6Sfr.
THERMAL BATHS
THERMALBAD & SPA ZÜRICH
Zurich’s first thermal bath is located in the buildings
that once were home to the brewery Hürlimann in
Zurich Enge using the spring water that was once sold
for drinking as Aqui. There are different pools, some
of them in the old stone cellars as well as an outdoor
area on the rooftop open all year, with a view over the
city and towards the Alps. Besides whirlpools, massage
jets and resting zones there is a Irish-Roman Spa area
with ten different stations like a peeling niche or herbal
steam for complete relaxation (extra fee applies).
QC-5, Brandschenkestrasse 150, 8Waffenplatzstrasse,
tel. +41 44 205 96 50, www.thermalbad-zuerich.ch.
Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 34/16Sfr, children up to
6 years free.
ALPAMARE
Alpamare is the biggest indoor waterpark in Europe, just
45 minutes by train from Zurich. There are ten slides with
a length of more than 1,500 metres and different levels
of difficulty, a wave pool, a river-like pool and a iodine
brine bath with massage jets. Alpamare will definitely
brighten up a rainy day, not just for kids. Up to five
connections per hour take you from Zurich to Pfäffikon
SZ (SZ means in canton Schwyz). From there, take bus
N°195 to the Seedamm-Center (no service on Sundays)
or walk there in 15 minutes.QGwattstrasse 12,
Pfäffikon SZ, tel. +41 55 415 15 15, www.alpamare.ch.
Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri & Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00
- 21:00. A four-hour stay is 39.50/32Sfr. On weekends
a surcharge of 3Sfr applies.
The fine Baroque architecture at Einsiedeln abbey won’t disappoint
PD
you.
CULTURE & HERITAGE
EINSIEDELN ABBEY
Einsiedeln (meaning ‘hermit’s’) Abbey is one of the finest
examples of Baroque architecture in Switzerland. The
Benedictine abbey complex was built from scratch in the early
18th century, replacing older buildings going back to the 10th
century. The church with its opulent, gold and marble interior
and the shrine of the black madonna is open for visitors
daily from 06:00 - 20:30, but be considerate during services.
The outstanding library can only be visited on a guided tour.
The small town of the same name is set among wooded hills,
close to lake Sihl, just at the edge of the Alps - perfect for a
walk. The panorama path that leads you to the lake and
back in 2.5 hours starts just behind the abbey’s stables. There
are four to five trains an hour from Zurich main station which
get you there in about an hour, for most connections you
have to change at Wädenswil.QEinsiedeln, tel. +41 55 418
61 11, www.kloster-einsiedeln.ch. Guided tours start at
14:00 (105 minutes) and 17:00 (60 minutes, mid May until
October) every day except Sundays and cost 15/7.50Sfr.
Unfortunately the tours are only in German. Meeting point
is Einsiedeln Tourism, Hauptstrasse 85, tel +41 55 418 44
88. No need to book.
OUTDOOR DESTINATIONS
FLUMSERBERG
High above lake Walensee, Flumserberg is an easy-to-reach
mountain destination between Zurich and the Grison Alps
in eastern Switzerland. More than 150 kilometres of hiking
trails, biking trails of all levels of difficulty, the summer
toboggan run Floomzer and a large climbing tower await
you for action. But it’s also a nice destination for calm walks
with great mountain views. After a 60-minute train ride to
Unterterzen (sometimes changing trains in Ziegelbrücke), a
cable car takes you up to Tannenboden, from where you have
access to all the fun. In April and most of May the cable car is
closed, you can reach Flumserberg by bus from Sargans only.
The lifts and toboggan run will open on May 23 (weekends
only until June 13) - but walking and hiking will be possible
earlier. Just make sure you wear good shoes, as there
might still be some snow here and there.QBergbahnen,
Flumserberg, tel. +41 81 720 15 15, www.flumserberg.ch.
Many different price options, check their website.
MOUNT PILATUS - HIGH ABOVE LUCERNE
The Pilatus rises majestically above the city of Lucerne.
From the summit, more than 2,100 metres above sea level,
you can see as many as 73 alpine peaks and all the lakes
of central Switzerland - or the sun shining above a sea of
fog. Get there either by cable car and aerial cableway from
Kriens (runs all year) or on the world’s steepest cogwheel
railway from Alpnachstad (operates mid May until the end
of October) - or do a roundtrip using both. At the top there
are five different panorama paths all easily accessible (we
recommend good shoes and a jacket though) taking you to
the peaks in 10 - 20 minutes, some paths leading through
tunnels with windows for a view. There are also two hotels
and restaurants. At Fräkmüntegg where you have to change
from the cable car to the aerial cableway, there is a summer
toboggan run and a suspension rope park. From Zurich, take
the train to Luzern (dep. 04 and 35 past the hour, duration
50 minutes), then bus N°1 with destination Kriens. Get off 20
minutes later at the stop Linde/Pilatus. Or from Luzern take
the train to Alpnachstad (20 minutes) where the cogwheel
train leaves.QPilatus Bahnen AG, Schlossweg 1, Kriens, tel.
+41 41 329 11 11, www.pilatus.ch. Adults 72Sfr, children
36Sfr (return journey, either cablecar or cogwheel train).
Take in the view down into the valley at Flumserberg.
PD
RHEINFALL - EUROPE’S BIGGEST WATERFALL
A trip to the Rheinfall makes for a great day out. Europe’s
biggest waterfall is just a 50-minute train ride from Zurich.
Close to the city of Schaffhausen the water of the river
Rhine plunges down an impressive 23 metres on a width
of more than 150 metres. Two castles or schlösser watch
over the waterfall: Schloss Laufen overlooks the top of
MOUNTAIN TOURS
BEST OF SWITZERLAND TOURS
Day trips organised by tour
operators are an easy way to
explore Switzerland and its
gorgeous mountains. Forget
the hassle with timetables,
itineraries and the like. Just
snuggle into your bus seat and let them guide you
through the day. Best of Switzerland tours for example
offers daily trips from Zurich to Pilatus, Rigi, Titlis and
Jungfraujoch. For instance you can take the rotating
gondola up to Titlis (more than 3000 metres asl),
where an encounter with ice, snow and a glacier
await you, including sledging on snow tubes if you
like. They also have a city tour to Luzern. Just check
their website for available tours and book up to a day
before - online or by phone. The tour busses leave
from the Zurich Bus terminal Sihlquai, just next to the
Hauptbahnhof (main train station), close to track 18.
Qwww.switzerland-tours.ch, tel. +41 44 710 50 50.
the fall, Schlössli Wörth is situated at the bottom. By train
it’s easiest to approach the falls from Laufen. At Zurich
main train station, take one of the many trains going
to Winterthur (Canton Zurich’s second largest town). In
Winterthur take train S33 with destination Schaffhausen
and get off at the stop Schloss Laufen. After a short walk
you arrive at the visitor’s centre, an exhibition about the
history of the Rheinfall (5/3.50Sfr including access to the
viewing platform) and at the castle. A boat takes you to
the other side of the river (2/1Sfr) and from there to the
rock in the middle of the waterfall (every ten minutes from
10:00 - 18:00 (11:00 - 17:00 in April and October), 8/4Sfr).
Stairs lead up the rock where you get a fantastic view of
the falls, spray included. On both sides of the river there
are paths with lookout platforms and restaurants - so take
some time for a walk. There is an adventure park on the
northern side of the falls, where you can climb on ropes
strung between trees - secured of course. (Open 10:00
- 19:00, 40/32/16Sfr, summer only).QNeuhausen am
Rheinfall, www.rheinfall.ch.
recreation within 1 hour from Zurich.
XXXèVNTFSCFSHDI
April - May 2015
55
Queer Zurich
Hotels
Zurich is undoubtedly Switzerland’s gay and lesbian
capital and is in general quite queer-friendly. What better
proof than the election of lesbian Corinne Mauch as mayor
in 2009? Zurich’s vibrant queer scene was one of the driving
forces in creating today’s club culture. Of course, some of
the queer venues are cool places to hang out even if you’re
hetero.
Zurich’s queer calendar has several major events, all in
spring or summer. For over ten years a Christopher Street
Day has been held in June. Called Zurich Pride Festival
(June 19 & 20, 2015, www.zhpf.ch) since 2010, this is a huge
event with parties, open-air bars and a colourful march
through the city. In spring the Pink Apple film festival
(April 29 - May 7, 2015, www.pinkapple.ch) shows gay and
lesbian films from all over the world and awards a prize to
a young director. But the queer scene is also very lively, big
events aside. Whether you’re looking for a gay-friendly bar
to relax in, gay and lesbian clubbing or venues of a more
raunchy kind, you’ll find it in Zurich. Check out the websites
or ask in some of the bars too.
CAFÉS & BARS
CRANBERRY
Campari is a major theme in this minimalist bar - a play
on the most famous Swiss German pop song Campari
Soda? You can certainly order campari soda, but the
team will make you most any other cocktail - and
well. The Cranberry is a buzzing bar for gays, lesbians
and anybody gay-friendly. There are occasional theme
parties. Check out the (mainly German) website for
some useful queer links.QF-3, Metzgergasse 3,
8Rathaus, tel. +41 44 261 27 72, www.cranberry.ch.
Open 17:00 - 24:00.
MÄNNERZONE
A gay sex shop with fetish articles during the week
(Tue to Fri 12:00 - 19:00 and Sat 12:00 - 17:00), the
Männerzone (men’s zone) turns into a very popular gay
bar on Fridays and particularly Saturdays. It’s men only
and tends to be 30 and up, though there’s no official rule
on age. It’s strictly a bar, no dancing, which maybe fits
the many bearded, beary guys you’ll find here.QC-2,
Kernstrasse 57, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41 43 243 30
43, www.maennerzone.ch. Open Fri & Sat 21:00 02:30.
PETRA’S TIP TOP BAR
Chanson - or what is called schlager in German - is at the
top of the menu here. But there’s enough Abba, Boney
M and what have you as well. Host Peter is well known
- especially for his drag performances. A cosy place for
some nostalgic merrymaking.QF-3, Seilergraben 13,
8Neumarkt, tel. +41 44 251 78 20, www.tip-top-bar.ch.
Open 17:00 - 02:00, Fri & Sat 17:00 - 04:00, Sun & Mon
closed.
Pink meets politics at the Pride Festival.
Zurich Pride Festival
RESOURCES
GAYMEBOYS.COM ONLINE MAGAZINE
This is a Zurich-centred gay online community with
English-language content. There’s a chat area, personals
and a listing of up-coming events and infos on gay
venues. You have to register for access, a standard
membership is free.Qwww.gaymeboys.com.
RAINBOWLINE
Rainbowline offers telephone counseling on queer
issues such as safe sex or homophobic violence on
+41 848 80 50 80 from 19:00 to 21:00 from Mon to Thu
(female counselors on Mon & Wed). Counseling is in
German, but many counselors speak some English and
definitely enough to be of help in case of violence or
another emergency. Rates are normal local rates.Qtel.
+41 848 80 50 80, www.rainbowline.ch.
CLUBS & PARTIES
HEAVEN
It was sad news in spring 2013: the T&M, a gay club
where generations of gay men had spent half their
tender years, had to close. But we have witnessed a
resurrection. Heaven opened soon after, just a few blocks
away. The new team running this cosy club promise
music from charts and house to more underground
tastes like deep house.QF-3, Spitalgasse 5, 8RudolfBrun Brücke, www.heavenclub.ch. Open usually Fri &
Sat 23:00 - 08:00.
RAGE
Rage is a factory of a cruising club with all the
works - darkrooms, slings, tubs and, of course, bars.
Sector C is fetish pure, with a strict dresscode and
changing themes. Only men are admitted. Get there
by train to Schlieren station or with bus 31 to the
stop Wagonsfabrik. Nightbuses on the weekend.
QWagistrasse 13, Schlieren, www.rage.ch. Thu 19:00
- 01:00, Fri 22:00 - 04:00, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00
- 01:00. 15-20Sfr. NX
Zurich is a business destination first and foremost
- and hotel rates reflect that. From Friday night to
Monday morning, prices often drop sharply. Why not
take advantage of this and spend a weekend in one
of the many four- and five-star hotels in the city?
Despite this, accommodation in Zurich remains rather
pricey and real budget accommodation is rare. But
nevertheless there is something for any taste and
almost any budget.
In Switzerland hotels are officially categorized with
stars from one to five. The categorization is done by
hotelleriesuisse, the national hoteliers association. A hotel
can also receive the supplement ‘superior’, indicating
a higher level of service and quality. We list the hotels
according to their official classification in the following
categories: Cream of the Crop*****, Upmarket****, Midrange*** and Budget (0 to **). Outside this classification
we list pensions - usually small and with less services than
a hotel - and some of the hostels in town. Find more hotels
on www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.
CREAM OF THE CROP
ALDEN
The smallest boutique five-star hotel in Zurich, in a
building from the late 19th century in the Enge district,
lies within walking distance of the lake and the glamorous
shopping area around Bahnhofstrasse. Each room is one
of a kind, with a careful choice of modern and antique
furniture and art. Bathrooms are huge, with a jacuzzi-style
bath tub and a rain shower. Book one of the lofts (one
has its own sauna) and enjoy your own private terrace
above the rooftops of Zurich. The ground floor harbours
a restaurant with international cuisine and a bar. A very
personal five-star experience.QD-5, Splügenstrasse 2,
8Tunnelstrasse, tel. +41 44 289 99 99, fax +41 44 289
99 98, welcome@alden.ch, www.alden.ch. 22 rooms.
PJR6KW hhhhh
WIDDER
The fabulous Widder is situated in nine former
residential houses in the mediaeval old town, with
the prestigious Bahnhofstrasse just around the
corner. Each of the 49 rooms is different in layout and
atmosphere. Many have traces of historical paintings
which were brought to new life when the hotel was
built in over ten years of work. Some rooms have
modern elements which contrast with the ancient
walls and beams. Others are furnished with antiques
and look more classical. Some rooms have a private
roof terrace with views over the old town towards
the lake and the Alps. Naturally they all have the
latest entertainment technology and bathrooms to
dream of.QE-3, Rennweg 7, 8Rennweg, tel. +41
44 224 25 26, fax +41 44 224 24 24, reservations@
widderhotel.ch, www.widderhotel.ch. 49 rooms.
PJHAR6UFLKW hhhhh
At top notch Alden hotel only the building is from the 19th
century.
PD
UPMARKET
AMBASSADOR À L’OPÉRA
The Ambassador Small Luxury Hotel is situated just next to
the Zurich Opera house and a stone‘s throw from the lake.
The rooms of this elegant Neo-Baroque building have high
ceilings, creating a feeling of spaciousness, even in the
smaller rooms. The interior is kept in a classic and elegant
English style. The beds are electrically adjustable, there is
a coffee machine in every room and free Wi-fi. As a special
service you can choose from a range of different styles
of pillows at the reception. The Opera restaurant on the
ground floor (try their fish specialities) offers picnic baskets.
Take one along to the lake or the hotel’s roof terrace.QF-5,
Falkenstrasse 6, 8Opernhaus, tel. +41 44 258 98 98,
fax +41 44 258 98 00, welcome@ambassadorhotel.ch,
www.ambassadorhotel.ch. 45 rooms. PJA6KW
hhhh
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
T Child-friendly
H Conference facilities
R Internet in room U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre
L Parking on site
K Restaurant
8 Nearest tram station
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
6 Animal friendly
W Wi-fi connection
J City centre location
April - May 2015
57
Hotels
Hotels
ASCOT
The Ascot opened in 1955 and was completely refurbished
in 2010. The dark wooden furnishing is now the hallmark
of the rooms which feature large beds, an armchair, an
espresso machine, a flat-screen TV and free internet access.
South facing rooms have balconies. The updated bathrooms
are styled in vivid colours and have a bathtub. Both the
lake and Bahnhofstrasse are just a few minutes away.
There are direct trains to the airport from the train station
Zurich Enge just across the square. Start your evening at
the very British Turf Bar on the ground floor or enjoy steak
and seafood in the restaurant Ascot.QD-5, Tessinerplatz
9, 8Bahnhof Enge, tel. +41 44 208 14 14, fax +41
44 208 14 20, reservation@ascot.ch, www.ascot.ch.
74 rooms. PJHA6LKW hhhh
The hotels on the lakefront looking festive.
CROWNE PLAZA
The Crowne Plaza is situated close to the Letzigrund
stadium 13 minutes (8 stops) from the city centre
by tram. The 365 rooms have all been completely
refurbished in 2010 and now come in a mix of bright
and light brown hues, with either a queen-size or two
twin-size beds, a shower or a bathtub and free tea and
coffee making facilities. Upgrade your room to a deluxe
for more work space and a couch lounge. For lunch or
dinner, the two in-house restaurants Relais des Arts and
Letzileu tend to your needs.QBadenerstrasse 420,
8Letzigrund, tel. +41 44 404 44 44, fax +41 44 404
44 40, info@cpzurich.ch, www.cpzurich.ch. 365 rooms.
PHAR6UFLBKW hhhh
BUDGET HOTELS
HOTTINGEN
This two-star hotel was completely refurbished in
2011 and offers functional, well designed rooms with
wooden floors and bright colours. The high ceilings
make for a comfortable, spacious room feeling. Besides
single and double rooms there are rooms for three or
even four guests. Most rooms have private bathrooms
with showers, all of them feature a flatscreen TV. There
is a fully equipped small kitchen on every floor which
you can use to prepare a meal or tea and coffee.
The old town and the lake are in walking distance
(10 - 15 minutes), tram stop just next to the hotel.
QG/H-3, Hottingerstrasse 31, 8Hottingerplatz,
tel. +41 44 256 19 19, fax +41 44 256 19 00, info@
hotelhottingen.ch, www.hotelhottingen.ch. 32
rooms. JA6ULW hh
MARTA
The marta is a functional hotel, very centrally located in
the Niederdorf, just a few minutes away from the main
train station. It was completely refurbished in 2010
and the blue coloured rooms have a modern feel now.
There is a twin bed, a bathroom with shower and a
flatscreen TV in every room, as well as Wi-fi throughout
the hotel. The hotel is run by a non-profit cooperation,
giving socially challenged women an opportunity
to work. There is no air-conditioning but ventilators.
QF-3, Zähringerstrasse 36, 8Central, tel. +41 44
269 95 95, fax +41 44 269 95 90, info@hotelmarta.ch,
www.hotelmarta.ch. 39 rooms. JHA6UW
hh
RAMADA HOTEL ZÜRICH CITY
The Ramada is situated next to the Letzigrund sports
stadium, a 15-minute tram ride from the city centre.
It was opened in February 2011 and offers four-star
comfort at reasonable prices. The huge flowers on the
wallpaper give the modern rooms a fresh touch. The
Business rooms offer free use of a capsule coffee machine.
There is an exercise room, a sauna and the Restaurant
La Terrasse with a nice garden.QBadenerstrasse 537,
8Freihofstrasse, tel. +41 44 437 99 00, zuerich@
ramada-treff.ch, www.h-hotels.com/zuerich. 159 rooms.
PHAR6UFLBKDW hhhh
PD
FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON SIHLCITY
This four-star hotel is housed in what was once the
warehouse of a 19th-century paper mill. The listed columns
and windows are subtly integrated into the architecture
and give the hotel a distinct urban-industrial touch. There
are five different room types, all offering large showers,
huge beds and flat screen TVs with internet access. Mineral
water, internet, national calls and coffee are included.
The Four Points Hotel is located in the shopping mall
Sihlcity which includes a multiplex cinema, restaurants
and excellent connections to the city centre and the
lake by tram and train (8 min). The Asia Spa is located
in the same building and offers discounted entry for
hotel guests.QB-6, Kalandergasse 1, 8Sihlcity Nord,
tel. +41 44 554 00 00, fax +41 44 554 00 01, sihlcity@
fourpoints.com, www.fourpointssihlcity.com. 132
rooms. PHAR6ULKW hhhh
NOVOTEL ZÜRICH CITY-WEST
The classic Novotel experience: the modern business rooms
feature a double bed, a mini-bar, a bathtub or shower
and a free dataport and Wi-fi for your laptop. A room can
accommodate up to two adults and two children up to 16
years old (on the pull-out sofa) for one standard price. The
Novotel is located in Zurich West, a hip district with many
restaurants, clubs and bars - all within walking distance.
The new tram stops just next to the hotel and takes you
to the centre in 10 minutes. Hardbrücke train station with
many connections to the airport is just one stop away.
There is also a small swimming pool for a relaxing swim
after an exhausting day.QK-6, Schiffbaustrasse 13,
8Technoparkstrasse, tel. +41 44 276 22 00, fax +41 44
276 22 99, H2731@accor.com, www.novotel.com/2731.
144 rooms. PTHAR6UFLBKCW
hhhh
SORELL ZÜRICHBERG
This architectural jewel high above Zurich lies at the edge of
the forest and yet is just 15 minutes by tram from the main
railway station and the lake. The view up here is thrilling,
with the city, the lake and the crests of the Alps all visible
from the generous veranda. The hotel is a combination of
two different parts, a splendid Jugendstil building and a
spiral annex in contemporary design by Zurich architects
Burkhalter & Sumi. Rooms are modern and brightly coloured
and all come with Nespresso coffee machines. The in-house
restaurant R21 offers French cuisine with a Swiss touch. No
air-conditioning.QJ-1, Orellistrasse 21, 8Zoo, tel. +41
44 268 35 35, fax +41 44 268 35 45, info@zuerichberg.ch,
www.zuerichberg.ch. 66 rooms. HA6ULBKW
hhhh
MID-RANGE
The tram stop at Stauffacher, a reference point for locals.
ZIYP
SCHWEIZERHOF
This four-star superior establishment is a good choice for those
who come to Zurich to shop on famous Bahnhofstrasse - it‘s
located just opposite the main train station where the shopping
starts. Business travelers will also enjoy the first-class service
provided which includes coffee and tea, a fruit basket and a
butler who will knock on your door in the evening, offering
you chocolate, fruit and newspapers. Situated in a listed
historic building, the rooms of the Schweizerhof are furnished
in a very classic style and feature a trouser press and electricallyadjustable beds.QE-2, Bahnhofplatz 7, 8Hauptbahnhof,
tel. +41 44 218 88 88, fax +41 44 218 81 81, info@
hotelschweizerhof.com,
www.hotelschweizerhof.com.
107 rooms. PJHAR6KXW hhhh
BASILEA
The Basilea is a functional three-star hotel in the old town,
in walking distance of the main train station, all the sights
and Bahnhofstrasse. The rooms are kept in earthy colours,
the wallpaper over the bed with an impressive view of
the Alps will remind you you’re in Switzerland when you
awake. Rooms come with a safe, a flat screen TV, a desk and
an armchair. Parking on site is possible (35Sfr, reservation
required).QF-3, Zähringerstrasse 25, 8Central, tel. + 41
44 256 76 00, fax + 41 44 256 76 01, info@hotelbasilea.ch,
www.hotelbasilea.ch. 55 rooms. JAULW
hhh
SHERATON ZURICH HOTEL
You’ll recognise the signature white framed windows with
their irregular shape against the dark facade of the all-new
Sheraton tower from afar. Located in the fast developing
former industrial district, the Sheraton features spacious rooms
(31sqm) with parquet flooring and bathrooms with rain
showers. There is a look-through from the bathroom to the
bedroom, which can be closed for privacy. From the hotel’s
gym you have an energizing view over the whole city, and from
your room too, if you’re lucky. In some rooms you can actually
sit on the window benches, leaning against the window quite cool. Café bar Nuovo and Swiss restaurant Route TwentySix with specialities from all 26 Swiss cantons on the ground
floor.QK-6, Pfingstweidstrasse 100, 8Toni-Areal, tel. +41
44 285 40 00, fax +41 44 285 40 99, info.sheratonzurich@
sheraton.com, www.sheratonzurichhhotel.com. 197
rooms. PHAR6UFLBKW hhhh
April - May 2015
59
Hotels
Directory
COMFORT HOTEL ROYAL
This hotel offers affordable, rather small non-smoking
rooms at a good three-star standard, only five minutes
walk away from the main train station and ETH /
University. The tram that stops in front of the entrance
takes you directly to the airport. The panorama rooms
have huge windows and offer a great view towards the
Uetliberg, Zurich‘s own little mountain. Smoker‘s lounge.
QF-2, Leonhardstrasse 6, 8Haldenegg, tel. +41 44
266 59 59, fax +41 44 266 59 60, office@comfortinn.ch,
www.comfortinn.ch. 70 rooms. PJAR6XW
hhh
PENSIONS
FÜR DICH
The ‘For You’ pension has 15 tastefully furnished rooms
opposite the park Bäckeranlage, just off Langstrasse.
The rooms are quite spacious and most of them feature
a TV, a lounge table and easy chairs, some even have a
balcony. Shower and toilet are shared between three
rooms. The café Für Dich downstairs serves breakfast
on weekends and is also a good place for a drink. Good
for exploring urban Zurich a little away from the centre.
QB-2, Stauffacherstrasse 141, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. +41
76 583 71 17/+41 43 317 91 60, pension@fuerdich.ch,
www.fuerdich.ch. 15 rooms. AW
AIRPORT HOTELS
BEST WESTERN HOTEL AIRPORT
Located in Glattbrugg, one of the municipalities
surrounding the airport, the Best Western Airport is
convenient if you’re doing business in this area. The free
shuttle bus takes you to the airport within minutes. The
rooms feature a desk, minibar, a safe and a kettle for tea
or coffee. The two in-house restaurants are dedicated
to Japanese and European cuisine - in the Fujiya of
Japan the cooks prepare your teppanyaki meal right at
your table. There is ventilation in the rooms but no airconditioning.QOberhauserstrasse 30, Glattbrugg,
tel. +41 44 809 47 47, fax +41 44 809 47 74, airport@
welcomehotels.ch, www.hotel-airport.ch. 44 rooms.
HAR6LKW hhhh
DENTISTS
Here are the most important consulates you can find in
Zurich. The embassies are usually located in Bern, which
is the Swiss capital. See www.eda.admin.ch for addresses.
SWISS SMILE QD-2, Hauptbahnhof / Shop Ville,
8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 43 300 30 03, www.swiss
-smile.com.
CHINA QMythenquai 100, 8Brunaustrasse, tel. +41
44 209 15 00, zurich.china-consulate.org.
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
ESTONIA QBergstrasse 52, Stäfa, tel. +41 44 926 88 37,
estland@bluewin.ch, www.baltics.ch/konsulat.
FRANCE QH-5, Signaustrasse 1, 8Signaustrasse,
tel. +41 44 268 85 17, consulat.france.zurich@
swissonline.ch, www.consulatfrance-zurich.org.
The old guild house Zur Waag, pride of Münsterhof square.
Zurich Tourism (CM)
ZUM GUTEN GLÜCK
Opened in 2008, this lovely pension offers basic rooms
with shared showers and bathrooms and sixties and
seventies style furniture. Check-in is at the coffee bar on
the ground floor. The next tram stop is close by and the
tram takes eight minutes to get to the main train station.
Recently new shops and bars have opened in the area,
as a major road had been closed to transit traffic. Good
choice if you are looking for cheap accommodation.QB-3,
Stationsstrasse 7, 8Kalkbreite, tel. +41 43 540 72 99,
contact@zumgutenglueck.ch,www.zumgutenglueck.ch.
10 rooms. AKW
GERMANY QJ-5, Witikonerstrasse 15, 8Klusplatz,
tel. +41 44 201 72 22, zuerich@hk-diplo.de,
www.honorarkonsul-zuerich.de.
ALEMANIA QBadenerstrasse 333, 8Albisriederplatz,
tel. +41 44 300 33 44, www.alemania.ch.
BÉNÉDICT QC-2, Militärstrasse 106, 8Sihlpost,
tel. +41 44 242 12 60, www.benedict.ch.
LIMOUSINE SERVICE
ALLIANCE LIMOUSINES Qtel. +41 43 499 62 88,
www.alliance-limousines.ch.
ITALY QD-4, Tödistrasse 65, 8Brandschenkenstrasse,
tel. +41 44 286 61 11, consolato.zurigo@esteri.it,
www.conszurigo.esteri.it.
LOST & FOUND
RUSSIA QF-4, Oberdorfstrasse 10, 8Bellevue, tel. +41
900 00 08 08 (5Sfr/min.), www.rusconsul.ch.
LOST & FOUND (VBZ) QE-3, Werdmühlestrasse 10,
8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. +41 44 412 25 50.
SWEDEN QF-4, Stadelhoferstrasse 40, 8Bellevue,
tel. +41 43 343 10 50, info@se-konsulat.ch,
www.swedenabroad.com.
PHARMACIES
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA QG-6, Dufourstrasse
101, 8Feldeggstrasse, tel. +41 43 499 29 60, zurich-ca@
state.gov, bern.usembassy.gov.
BAHNHOF APOTHEKE QE-2, Bahnhofplatz 15,
8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 225 42 42.
BELLEVUE APOTHEKE QF-5, Theaterstrasse 14,
8Bellevue, tel. +41 44 266 62 22.
ç6":
CORONADO
The Coronado is a functional three-star hotel close to
University Irchel. The rooms all feature dark parquet
flooring, a desk and a mini-bar. Doubles either come
with two beds or one kingsize one. The tram stops
just opposite the hotel and takes you to the centre in
around 12 minutes - or straight to the airport in 20. For
a relaxing walk Irchel Park lies just opposite the street.
QN-4, Schaffhauserstrasse 137, 8Milchbuck, tel.
+41 44 360 26 26, fax +41 44 360 26 36, coronado@
welcomehotels.ch, www.hotel-coronado.ch. 40 rooms.
PHAR6LW hhh
CONSULATES
HOSTELS
YOUTH HOSTEL
This modern youth hostel has four- and six-bed rooms
with bunk beds and shared showers and toilets. All
rooms have a small vestibule where lockers and the
washbasin are located - so latecomers don‘t wake up
the rest. There are also private doubles and four-bed
rooms with en-suite bathrooms. 24 hours reception and
cheap meals (20Sfr incl. soft drink). It‘s just a five-minute
walk to the lake and 15 min by tram to the centre. On
the weekends a night bus (N°12) stops right in front
of the hostel all night long. Great place to meet other
travellers.QMutschellenstrasse 114, 8Morgental,
tel. +41 43 399 78 00, fax +41 43 399 78 01,
zuerich@youthhostel.ch, www.youthostel.ch/zuerich.
76 rooms. Hostelling International membership
required: a day’s membership 6Sfr, yearly member card
33Sfr. HAUKW
CITY BACKPACKER (HOTEL BIBER)
This is the only hostel-style place in the city centre.
The six-person dorms consist of three bunk beds, small
lockers for your valuables and a sink. Showers and toilets
are shared. Latest check-in 22:00 - no exceptions.QF-3,
Niederdorfstrasse 5, 8Rathaus, tel. +41 44 251 90 15,
sleep@city-backpacker.ch,
www.city-backpacker.ch.
JA
Welcome to Zurich
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April - May 2015
61
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Alden
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Alice Choo
33
Alpamare
54
Alprausch
45
Ambassador à l'Opéra
57
Arc'teryx Partnerstore
43
Ascot
58
Asiaway
52
Au-Gust
27
Avis
7
Ban Song Thai
19
Bar Basso
24
Basilea
59
Berg und Tal
46
Bernie's Donna
42
Best of Zurich - Zürich City
Tour
39
Best Western Hotel Airport
60
Beyer
48
Blaue Ente
20
Bohemia
26
Boutique Roma
42
Cantina la Lupe
25
Caran d'Ache
46
Cheyenne
52
Chinese Garden
38
CHRIST Watches & Jewelry
47
City Backpacker
60
Comfort Hotel Royal
60
Commercio
21
Cooper's Pub
52
Coronado
60
Cranberry
56
Crowne Plaza
58
Cupcake Affair
29
Dante
30
Degussa Goldhandel
47
Die Zukunft
33
Edelweiss Shop
44
Einkaufszentrum Glatt
43
Einsiedeln Abbey
54
Elisaburg
22
Elle'n'Belle
28
Ethnographic Museum 36
Felix am Bellevue
29
FiveSpice
19
Flea Market Kanzlei
37
Flumserberg
54
Four Points by Sheraton
Sihlcity
58
Franz Carl Weber
53
Fraumünster
34
Fribourger Fonduestübli 22
Fruit & Veg Markets
37
Fujiya of Japan
23
Für Dich
60
gaymeboys.com online
magazine
56
George Bar & Grill
26
Giacometti murals
34
Giesserei
52
Gleis 9
52
Globus
42
Gonzo
33
Grossmünster
34
Gübelin
48
Guess Zurich
44
Hafenkneipe
31
Haifisch
32
Heaven
56
Hive
33
Honold La Confiserie
46
Hottingen
58
Im Viadukt
43
Iroquois
20
IWC Boutique
48
James Joyce
32
Jordi Swiss Icon
48
Kanzlei
33
Kindercity
36, 53
Knies Kinderzoo
54
Kunsthaus
36
Kurz Jewellery and Watches
48
Lake Zurich Cruises
35
Le Cèdre - Bellevue
25
Le Dézaley
22
Le Philosophe
30
Les Halles
24
Lindenhof
35
Lindenhofkeller
20
LOOQ
42
Lumière
21
Madrid
26
Maison Manesse
20
Männerzone
56
Manor
42
Marta
58
Mascotte
33
Max Chocolatier
46
Meng Cutlery
45
Mère Catherine
21
messer-scharf
45
Milchbar
29
Mogli Chinderlade
53
Mohrenkopf
27
Molino
22
Montblanc Zurich
48
Moods
33
Mount Pilatus - high above
Lucerne
55
Mövenpick Wein Bar
31
Museum für Gestaltung 37
National Museum
37
Nonam
38
Novotel Zürich City-West 58
Och Sport
44
Odeon
29
Orell Füssli - The Bookshop
43
Oxblood Shoes
44
Paddy Reilly's
32
Partime
48
Pepe Jeans
42
Petra's Tip Top Bar
56
Pizza Pasta Ciao!
53
PKZ Women
42
Pretôt Delikatessen
46
Quai 61
24
Rage
56
Rainbowline
56
RAMADA Hotel Zürich City
59
Razzia
31
Rec Rec
43
Rheinfall - Europe's biggest
waterfall
55
Rheinfelder Bierhalle
28
Rosso
22
Rote Fabrik
33
Rubina
27
Safari Bar
31
Schweizer Heimatwerk 45
Schweizerhof
59
Segway City Tours
39
Sheraton Zurich Hotel
59
Sihlpost
Sorell Zürichberg
Sprüngli
Stories of the Old Town Guided walk
St. Peter
Swiss Casinos Zürich
Ta-Bou
Talacker
Teddy's Souvenir-Shop
The Bite
The International
Thermalbad & Spa Zürich
tibits
Tres Amigos
Uetliberg
Vapiano
Veltlinerkeller
Victorinox Flagship Store
Villa & Park Patumbah
Vollenweider Chocolatier
Confiseur
Widder
Yooji's Bahnhofstrasse
Youth Hostel
Zara
Zeughauskeller
Ziegelhütte
Zum Grünen Glas
Zum Guten Glück
Zurich Zoo
Züri rollt - bikes for free
9
59
29
39
39
31
44
32
45
20
30
54
28
52
35
23
28
45
38
46
57
23
60
43
28
52
24
60
53
7
FEATURES INDEX
Adult entertainment
Breakfast
Casino
Decoding the menu
Cheese restaurants
Lake Zurich
Language smarts
Live music
Markets
Meet Joyce, Lenin & Co
More for less with the ZürichCARD
Smart phoning
Spring cycling tour
Swiss cuisine
Tax free shopping
Thermal baths
Tourist service
Useful Zurich apps
Watches & Jewellery
32
29
31
26
22
35
9
33
37
38
36
9
13
24
48
54
10
8
47
April - May 2015
65
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