domain de la romanee conti
Transcription
domain de la romanee conti
Wilson Daniels Quarterly 2013 Volume Two Wilson Daniels Celebrates 35 Years! Table of Contents Page Wilson Daniels Celebrates 35 Years!. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Introducing Clau de Nell. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-3 Camp Schramsberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 What’s Your Sparkling Personality?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Rare Brandies from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Royal Tokaji: Top 100 Wines and Wineries of the World. . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Chêne Bleu: A Unique Terroir. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8-9 Presqu’ile’s New Winery and Tasting Room. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10-11 Musique & Vin au Clos Vougeot. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 Pierre Sparr: “Value Brand of the Year”. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3 Grieve Family Winery and Double Eagle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14-15 Wilson Daniels Thinks Italian!. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 6 Castello di Volpaia: Off-Road Wine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 7 Tardieu-Laurent 2011 Vintage Report and Critical Acclaim. . . . . . . . . 1 8 Ponzi Vineyards Opens Stunning New Tasting Room . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 9 We’ve got Social Skills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 0 In 35 years sales channels have multiplied, new categories have emerged, and modes of communication have radically changed; and Wilson Daniels has mastered them all. Our portfolio of distinctive wineries and distilleries bears witness to ongoing success. Wilson Daniels continues to pursue and elevate the standards of excellence set by founders Win Wilson and Jack Daniels in 1978, through a keen focus on developing long-term, strategic partnerships with family-owned estates that embody deep respect for terroir and are benchmarks in their region. T he year 2013 marks a significant milestone for Wilson Daniels. Thirty-five years ago, in 1978, Win Wilson and Jack Daniels founded their company for the purpose of providing national sales and marketing expertise for ultra-premium California family wine estates. Their vision was to offer marketing, sales and public relations to enhance brand awareness and achieve national distribution for their winery partners. Artisan wines from California were beginning to attract the attention of fine restaurants and wine shops across the country following the Paris tasting of 1976. In the early days, Wilson Daniels operated from a one-room office on Main Street in St. Helena. Jack and Win specialized in premium properties from California’s finest family-owned wineries, presenting them to top accounts across the USA. Then, in 1981, they were offered the Introducing Bob Guinn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 0 Save the Date! 2014 Portfolio Tour. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 0 Gainey Gets Gorgeous. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1 Kumeu River, an Auckland pearl, by Julia Harding MW . . . . . . . . 22-23 Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay: Benchmark for Ageability. . . . . . . . 2 4 Bibi Graetz Critical Acclaim. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 5 Introducing Sipsmith. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26-27 The Wilson Daniels Portfolio. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28-29 Letter from the President. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Back Cover www.wilsondaniels.com Cover Photography © Jason Tinacci 1978 1979 1980 1993 1994 1996 1997 1999 2002 2003 2007 2008 2008 2011 2012 2013 exclusive representation of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, a relationship that has continued to this day. This entrée was the beginning of their import portfolio, which has now grown to exceed the domestic portfolio. The list of distinguished Wilson Daniels clients through the years has included many of the most respected names and properties known to the world of wine. Today the company represents fine wine and spirits producers in the United States, Europe, New Zealand, Chile and South Africa. Wilson Daniels is still Napa Valley’s familyowned (now by the Underwood family), fullyintegrated importer and marketer of fine wines and premium spirits from the world’s foremost regions. Join us in celebrating 35 years of wonderful partnerships, as we extend our thanks for your trust, support and friendship over the years. Milestones in the History of Wilson Daniels (current portfolio) Win Wilson and Jack Daniels create their company to provide sales and marketing expertise for ultra-premium wine estates Domaine de la Romanée-Conti becomes the first Burgundy property to join Wilson Daniels Kumeu River becomes their first New Zealand property Clos Pegase Royal Tokaji Ponzi Vineyards and Schramsberg Vineyards Underwood family makes a long-term investment in Wilson Daniels Domaine Leflaive Gainey Vineyard WillaKenzie Estate Castello di Volpaia Tardieu-Laurent becomes their first Rhône winery Marchese Lodovico Antinori’s Tenuta Campo de Sasso and Mount Nelson Château Simard Domaine Laroche, Mas le Chevalière, Viña Punto Alto, L’Avenir, Bibi Graetz and Maison Pierre Sparr Presqu’ile Winery, Buglioni, Hyde de Villaine (HdV), Clau de Nell, Chêne Bleu, Grieve Family Winery, Sipsmith Geological Overview of the Loire Valley One-hundred million years ago, during the Upper Cretaceous Period, much of the Loire Valley was under the ancient seas of the Paris Basin. It was in this prehistoric era, known as the Turonian, that the chalk layers of Anjou (in the Middle Loire) were deposited. Tuffeau, as the rock is properly called, is chalky limestone composed chiefly of compressed fragments of Bryozoa — marine organisms which lived in masslike floating colonies. When exposed to air, the deposits are cemented by iron and magnesium oxides, adding valuable elements to the soil. When mixed with sand and flinty clays from later eras, the tuffeau creates the best vineyards soils. Cabernet Franc grows happily on the Cretaceous chalks of Saumur. Tuffeau and Troglodyte Dwellings The Loire Valley is renowned for its grand châteaux overlooking France’s longest river. Many of these châteaux were constructed from tuffeau, the soft yet strong creamywhite limestone quarried for centuries in the Loire region. While royalty and nobility lived in opulent splendor (curtailed by the French Revolution), the limestone quarries provided homes for the general populace. Carved out of cliff faces or tunneled underground, over time the labyrinth of troglodyte caves was converted into dwellings by artists, artisans, monks, farmers and soldiers. During the Norman invasions of the ninth and tenth centuries, the troglodyte caves provided the region with a prodigious underground defense system and escape routes. The greatest concentration of troglodytes in the Loire Valley is in the region of Saumur. There, whole villages are composed of these unique troglodyte dwellings. Their consistently cool temperature and humidity created a perfect environment for wine cellars, used by the local vignerons, and for mushroom beds for the champignons de Paris. At the end of the nineteenth century, when construction of the Metro in Paris destroyed the mushroom caves under the city, les champignonistes moved into these abandoned caves. In contrast to the Loire’s majestic, often grandiose, châteaux, an economy of scale, practicality, authenticity, ecological consciousness and direct contact with nature characterize the troglodyte dwellings. Clau de Nell and Serendipity Domaine Clau de Nell is located in the Loire Valley wine region of Anjou, southeast of Angers and northwest of Saumur, in the village of Ambillou-Château. The vines range in age from 30 to 90 years. The vineyard, situated on a south-facing knoll, consists of eight contiguous hectares (19.77 acres), of which five hectares are planted to Cabernet Franc, two hectares to Grolleau and one hectare to Cabernet Sauvignon. The soils are sandstone grit and red flint over tuffeau (the soft limestone of the region). The vineyard is on a slope at an altitude of just 90 meters (295 feet), 120 kilometers (75 miles) from the Atlantic Ocean. From the top of the knoll, surrounded by open countryside, the Loire River can be glimpsed in the distance. biodynamic viticulture, to be their estate manager. Christian Jacques concluded that “We have not chosen Clau de Nell, so much as Clau de Nell has chosen us!” These vineyards have been biodynamically cultivated since 2000. Significant financial difficulties and a call for aid from the previous proprietors brought the property to Anne-Claude Leflaive’s attention. In 2006, Anne-Claude and her husband, Christian Jacques, had created a company to help new biodynamic wine growers take advantage of their established commercial network. In order to assist the struggling venture, they purchased the domaine in 2008. Clau de Nell had not produced any wine for three years due to lack of means. Grolleau, a varietal native to Touraine, has played a major part only in Rosé d’Anjou in the past, as it is prone to very high yields. When yields are limited, however, and the vines are very old and cultivated 100% biodynamically, as at Clau de Nell, the results are surprising, with a remarkable purity of fruit and velvety, tight tannins. This purchase was a moment of serendipity for the abandoned vineyards and the Leflaive-Jacques family that culminated in the arrival of Sylvain Potin, well-versed in Yields are less than 30 hectoliters per hectare. Harvest is by hand and entirely destemmed prior to cuvaison, which lasts for 20 to 30 days. The wine cellars are centuriesold, historic troglodyte caves created from the tuffeau or limestone quarries, which maintain a constant temperature of 14° Celsius (57° Fahrenheit). The wines are aged for 18 months in oak barrels in the caves which were ready to welcome the new wines. Chenin Blanc, indigenous to the Loire Valley, has been planted in 2012 and 2013 on 1.5 hectares (3.7 acres) of limestone/ clay soils that are most suited to this noble white varietal. These young vines will come into production in 2015. Clau de Nell will produce a Chenin Blanc “Saumur” in 2013 from one hectare of a neighboring vineyard which is farmed biodynamically. Clau de Nell was named in 2000 by the previous owners, Claude and Nelly, but the domaine has been in existence for 100 years or more, as the age of the vines attests. Grolleau: 100% Grolleau 60- to 90-year-old vines 100% biodynamic Cabernet Franc: 100% Cabernet Franc 40-year-old vines 100% biodynamic Cuvée Violette: Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon 40- to 60-year-old vines 100% biodynamic Sylvain Potin, well-versed in biodynamic viticulture, returned to his native Loire Valley just in time shoulder the responsibilties of estate manager at Clau de Nell. 2 • WDQ WDQ • 3 Camp Schramsberg: This is th e Life! Camp Schramsberg offers a fun-filled, hands-on, three-day camp experience where you will enjoy exceptional dining, intensive learning and invaluable expertise from some of the world’s most celebrated wine and food professionals — all of this held in the Napa Valley, the epicenter of food and wine. It is held twice a year, in the spring and fall, allowing two different experiences for attendees. wines as you help us create a blend for the next tirage bottling season. Campers during one of the food and wine seminars at Meadowood Napa Valley At the Table: During Camp Schramsberg, you will feast on the best of the region’s harvest cuisine and learn about food and wine by renowned chef and enologist, Holly Peterson. Through a series of culinary sessions, your understanding of the complementary and contrasting flavors found between food and sparkling wines will be deepened. You will enjoy a specially prepared welcome dinner on the historic Schramsberg property, breakfast and lunch at Meadowood Napa Valley, and enjoy many additional memorable educational dining experiences throughout Camp. The instant these joyous words are shouted, we expect to hear a loud “Pop!” that means sparkling wine has been opened and is about to be poured. There’s nothing more festive than a glass full of bubbles. Before you automatically reach for the Champagne this holiday season, think again, for there are a variety of sparkling wines to choose from: one for every personality, every mood and every price range. American sparkling wine may be the perfect fit — try our little quiz, you’ll love it! Just skim down the list to see which style of sparkling wine fits your bubbly personality, and chose your bubbles accordingly. Do you know the thread count of your cotton sheets? Is wild mushroom risotto your favorite indulgence? In the Vineyards: Learn the art and science of vineyard location, viticultural practices and clonal selections, all of which affect the complexity of aromas and flavors in a finished Schramsberg wine. During the spring session, you will prune dormant vines, preparing them for the upcoming budbreak; while in the fall session, you will harvest perfectly ripe grapes for this year’s harvest. At the Winery: Follow the steps of making sparkling wines in the classic méthode champenoise technique. Taste through a series of juices and wines as they ferment down during our fall session; and in the spring session, taste though some of the 250 different base 4 • WDQ A camper learns to saber open a bottle of sparkling wine Information for 2014: Next year’s Spring Blending Session will be held March 9-11, and the Fall Harvest Session will be September 7-9, 2014. For those who are in the restaurant or retail trade, Schramsberg has a scholarship program to assist professionals attending this extraordinary program. Chardonnay grapes are harvested by Camp Schramsberg campers For additional information, please visit www.schramsberg.com or contact Matthew Levy at (800) 877-3623 ext. 2408 or at camp@schramsberg.com. sparkling wine so enjoyable. This wine is for people who make every day a celebration! Do you like walks on the beach, film noir and impromptu parties? Then the Mirabelle Brut or Rosé NV is right up your alley. Both sparkling wines are specially crafted from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from select cool-climate vineyards. While the Chardonnay-based Brut is full of zest, the addition of Pinot Noir to the Rosé summons you to a lively and elegant finale. Both of these wines are affordable yet sophisticated. Do you eat pasta at least twice a week? Prefer Fred Astaire to John Wayne? You’ll love Schramsberg’s Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noirs. Both produced from Chardonnay and/or Pinot Noir grapes via the same methods used to make Champagne, these rich, charming wines exude a complex yet approachable structure. Perhaps “toasting to peace” is your ritual? If so, these wines are for you! Do you want to be a wedding singer, read comic books, or does high-speed rail travel appeal to you? Go for the American original — Schramsberg Crémant Demi-sec — an off-dry, dessert-style wine. The unique California grape named Flora (a cross of Semillon and Gewürztraminer) is the core grape uniting select lots of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. This racy, youthful sparkling wine is waiting to be discovered. Then the J. Schram 2005 or Schramsberg Reserve 2005 is for you. Both sparklers seek to achieve the greatest elegance and individuality possible. The vintage J. Schram exhibits an uncanny combination of layered richness, yeasty notes, ripe fruit flavors and an unending mousse of minuscule bubbles. The Reserve is creamy and graceful. These special bottlings are classic and elegant, with a refined earthiness. Prefer osetra caviar to beluga? You’re extra-discerning, my friend. Go for the vintage. Do you screen your calls? If not, you’re the Schramsberg Brut Rosé type: friendly, spontaneous, open, funloving. The Brut Rosé is flavorful and versatile with food or delicious by itself as an apéritif. The wine is strongly influenced by the Pinot Noir — not only the pink hue, but the bright flavors that make this WDQ • 5 barrels as wine settles), and partly out of wine produced from the second harvest. Distilled in 1996, the Fine was then placed in new oak barrels and aged for 17 years. Aubert de Villaine describes the Fine’s flavor as characteristically fruity, pleasant, almost sweet. There is a feminine aspect, fine and delicate; a whisper of flowers and herbal aromas. It can be drunk as an apéritif in small quantities, but is best appreciated after a good meal with coffee, cigars and chocolate desserts. Domaine de la Romanée-Conti produced the 1992 Marc de Bourgogne by distilling grape pomace (“marc” in French), from the 1992 harvest. (The word marc refers to the semi-solid mass of grape skins, pulp, seeds and stems that remains after wine grapes have been pressed out. The famous grappas of Italy are produced in this same manner.) The 1992 Marc de Bourgogne was aged for 20 years in oak barrels and bottled in the traditional fashion, without filtration, on July 12, 2012. Rare Brandies from the Cellars of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Every so many years, when the stars are perfectly aligned and when harvest and winemaking have occurred in just the right manner, Burgundy’s celebrated Domaine de la RomanéeConti makes the decision to produce extremely small amounts of ethereal brandy. This brandy might be one of two types: Fine Bourgogne or Marc de Bourgogne. Either spirit is very rare, and each is made only in an exceptional year. Wilson Daniels currently has on offer two of these limited, distinctive bottlings in the United States: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 1995 Fine Bourgogne and the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 1992 Marc de Bourgogne. The 1995 Burgundy vintage was “symphonic,” in the words of the Domaine’s co-director Aubert de Villaine. Thanks to exceptional weather in October, a second crop ripened after the initial harvest at the Domaine and was harvested in November. The 1995 Fine Bourgogne was made partly from lees (a creamy sediment deposited in tanks and 6 • WDQ According to Aubert de Villaine, the Marc de Bourgogne is a spirit that ages well. It possesses a virile character of fermenting grapes, of humus and woodlands. It is an exhilarating brandy in the winter after hiking, hunting or skiing. Likewise it is excellent after dinner with chocolate truffles, coffee and cigars. Whether you prefer the virile expression of the Marc de Bourgogne or the more feminine wiles of the Fine Bourgogne, in either case, be sure to use the right glass to maximize your pleasure. The aromas from either of these remarkable brandies tend to develop in the glass, so it is best to serve this spirit in “verre-ballon,” or “balloon glassware,” at a cool room temperature between 65 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit. A bottle can be kept for a long time after opening, provided that it is tightly closed and stored in a cool, dark location. Top 100 Wineries of the World Imported Wineries of the Year “Commit the names in this section to memory and you’ll be set for a year of great drinking. These 63 wineries — selected from more than 8,464 imported wines presented to our blind panels and critics –— are the ones that came out on the top in the last 12 months of our tastings, performing at the very top of their regions.” Hungary: Royal Tokaji “When Hugh Johnson began organizing Royal Tokaji in 1989, the region was known to most wine lovers only through mentions in old books; decades of Communist rule had obliterated its historic greatness. Johnson set about recovering all the pre-Communist information he could find, working with Ben Howkins, a fellow Brit and MW who joined the company in 1993 as the director of the estate. They also hired Károly Ats, a local with an intimate knowledge of the vineyards through his years of working for the state. “With Ats’s experience and the discovery of an old map that set forth a classification of the vineyards, they gathered together 62 growers with vineyards in the center of the region near Mád, and began to work toward bottling the top parcels as single-site wines, all made in a traditional sweet wine style, the ripeness classified by puttonyos. “After the 2012 vintage, Ats left to focus on his own winery. His former coworker, Fruzsina Ostváth, has stepped in to take his place, working with consultant Stéphanie Berecz. “Tasting through Royal Tokaji’s 2007 portfolio earlier this year was like taking a master class in Tokaj terroir. The Mézes Mály shows the fineness of the vineyard’s loess soils in its light apricot flavor, bright acidity and lacey floral notes; the heavier loam soils of Birsalmás give a wine with a deeper, more opulent build, as well as the quince notes for which it’s named. Then there’s the Szent Tamás: The warmth and iron content of its red volcanic rock shows vividly in its combination of sharp minerality and honeycomb richness. “The ’03 Essencia, a thick, pure distillation of free-run juice from heavily botrytized grapes, knocked the breath out of our panelists with its silken texture and fragrant sugar buzz. Even so, the 6 Puttonyos from Betsek was a close runner-up. From a 37-acre patch of black volcanic soil at the bottom of the valley, it offers the most vivid distillation of place of all the ‘07s, its flavors dark and deep, more pumpkin than peach, with an earthy smokiness. It’s a wine to savor slowly, with a piece of cheese to temper the intensity now or anytime over the next 50 years.” —Tara Q. Thomas Top-Scoring Wines 95 points: 2003 Essencia 94 points: 2007 Betsek 93 points: 2007 Szt. Tamás 27th Annual Buying Guide Winter 2013 Top 100 Wines in 2013 Essencia 2003 95 points “This is surprisingly delicate for something so concentrated. It pours like warm honey, coating the tongue in a soft, silky blanket of flavor, all apricot and orange at first. As it warms in the mouth, notes of wildflower honey, orange blossoms and green tea emerge, a faint earthy flavor rumbling an octave below. At 2.23 percent alcohol and 511 grams of residual sugar per liter, it should pretty much live forever, a rarity to revel in by the teaspoon.”—Tara Q. Thomas Wine & Spirits, Winter 2013 WDQ • 7 Blessed with a confluence of natural factors, Chêne Bleu has the benefit of an exceptional location, multifaceted geology and a southern Rhône climate with soils more typical of the northern Rhône. Isolated and protected, high in a mountain saddle, Chêne Bleu has its provenance in a unique, four-corner borderland of the département of Vaucluse in the southern Rhône, where the boundaries of Gigondas, Côtes du Ventoux, Côtes du Rhône and Séguret come together. This area is located in the foothills of Mont Ventoux, 550 to 630 meters (1800 to 2000 feet) above sea level, on the northern slopes of a spectacular limestone outcropping known as the Dentelles de Montmirail (from the Latin “Mons Mirabilis” — meaning “Lace of Marvelous Mountains”). It enjoys an exceptional terroir due to this pristine, remote location and its complex geology, with many exposed strata of rock. The 135-hectare (340-acre) estate has existed since the ninth century and was christened La Verrière (“The Glassmaking Workshop”) in 1427 by Aliot de Montvin, an artisan glassblower of noble birth. The estate is surrounded by forests, hills and valleys in spectacular isolation that, in conjunction with its elevation, create a unique microterroir. In fact, Chêne Bleu is located within the UNESCO-designated Mont Ventoux Biosphere Reserve, an Chêne Bleu is situated high in the foothills of Mont Ventoux in the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. 8 • WDQ 81,000-hectare (more than 200,000-acre) nature preserve with its own microclimate that has been set aside in recognition of its diversity of flora and fauna. in wines that have the aromas and flavors of the southern Rhône, the finesse of the northern Rhône and the aging potential of the region’s finest AOCs. A working vineyard since the Middle Ages, the vines had not been tended during the past 50 years. The vineyard plots are planted on the slopes of the Dentelles and total 35 hectares (87 acres). Chêne Bleu is one of the highest vineyards in the entire region, and this altitude provides essential temperature variations between day and night, allowing the grapes to ripen more slowly and preserving acidity in the cool nights. Harvest can be up to five weeks later than in the valleys below. Being so far south, on the same latitude as Gigondas, there are more than 300 sunny days in the year to ensure the grapes’ physiological ripeness, while the altitude and geology assure acidity and freshness. This results Xavier and Nicole Rolet purchased the property in 1993, enchanted by the secluded location of the vineyard and the history of the ancient priory that had been built nearly 1,000 years ago. The estate had been abandoned for much of the previous century, and the buildings were in ruins. The Rolets became completely passionate about every aspect of the place and the project, determined to do absolutely everything necessary to bring it to the highest possible world standards. A decade of meticulous work was required to restore the priory and nurture the neglected vineyards back to health. Gnarly vines that were 45 years old were reclaimed; new vineyards were planted with more Rhône varietals. Jean-Louis Gallucci, cellar master, Bénédicte Gallucci, viticulturist, Xavier Rolet and Nicole Rolet, founders, proprietors, vignerons (also apiarist) With time, each small improvement in the vineyard was rewarded ten-fold, and expert advisors became extremely excited about the potential for the estate to produce “premier cru” caliber wines. Renowned soil scientists, microbiologists and viticultural consultants Claude and Lydia Bourguignon tested the soils and praised the rich diversity of microorganisms in which rare species were found. Esteemed enologist Philippe Cambie advised the family as the project evolved into a full-fledged winemaking endeavor that entailed building a state-ofthe-art multi-level winery and converting to biodynamic viticulture. Fortunately, Xavier’s family has been involved in winemaking for generations, and his sister Bénédicte Gallucci and brother-in-law Jean-Louis Gallucci joined the team as viticulturist and cellar master/winemaker, respectively. Chêne Bleu released its first vintage in 2006. Chêne Bleu is named for a magnificent, centuries-old oak tree growing on the estate. During the drought of 2005, this mighty oak suffered terribly. It was preserved by a treatment of bouillie bordelaise, the blue-green solution used to protect organic vineyards worldwide, applied by Provençal tree-sculptor Marc Nucera. This ancient estate dates back to the ninth century. It was a farming priory, later owned by the Knights Templar and in the fifteenth century, used as a glass-blowing workshop. At the end of the twentieth century, the Rolets found the abandoned buildings in ruins. WDQ • 9 Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc, among other varietals. Then they started building the winery and tasting room, and making wine, of course. “Splendor in the vines” by Wendy Thies Sell reprinted with permission from NewTimes/SUN (formerly Santa Maria Sun) “Presqu’ile’s new, state-of-the-art winery and hospitality building — connected by a unique cave system — could easily grace the pages of Architectural Digest. The awardwinning, San Francisco-based architectural firm Taylor Lombardo Architects designed the project. “The design aesthetic is contemporary, sleek, and elegant: incorporating stone, wood, concrete, glass, and metal. Interesting modern art adorns the walls and landscaping. They paid attention to every detail — just as Presqu’ile does in winemaking. “Many of the building materials are sustainable and sourced from the West Coast. The sandstone used for the exterior and interior of the winery complex were harvested from a quarry in Lompoc. A local artisan labored for seven months hand-cutting and laying each stone. ‘It was kind of a monumental effort on his part,’ Matt remarked. ‘Pretty cool!’ “The winery sits atop a hill at the back of the property off of East Clark Avenue, and applies a gravity flow concept, which allows for a more gentle treatment of the grapes during the creation of Presqu’ile’s critically acclaimed wines. “The Murphy family of Arkansas bought the 200 acres east of Orcutt in 2007. Soon thereafter, they planted 73 acres of sustainably farmed Pinot Noir, 10 • WDQ “The owners said they searched meticulously to find the right place to ‘set down some roots’ and develop a world-class wine project. They determined the cool Santa Maria Valley made it the place to be, ‘because of the climate, the soils; that whole encompassing terroir thing,’ Matt said. He works hand-in-hand with Presqu’ile’s personable winemaker, Dieter Cronje, a wine rock star — literally. Cronje not only handcrafts vibrant, complex wines, but he actually has a rock band, The Tepusquet Tornadoes, made up of wine industry friends. The university-trained 29-year-old native of South Africa came to California in 2006 to make Pinot Noir. He met Matt while working at a winery in Santa Maria, realized that they are passionate about the same wine style, and teamed up with the goal of making exceptional wine. “Matt is quoted on the winery website as saying: ‘We believe the best wines are handcrafted with pristine fruit, very little manipulation and the utmost respect for place. We also hold the fervent belief that Santa Maria Valley has all the prerequisites for producing elegant, world-class wines.’ Presqu’ile’s unrelenting pursuit of quality definitely shows in its impressive lineup of high-end wines. “‘We’re very happy with the wines,’ Cronje told me as we walked through the new winery, where this talented winemaker can be like a kid in a candy store. ‘It’s beyond words! We’ve been waiting for so long — it’s kind of larger than life,’ Cronje added. ‘We have more control in the new building, so we should be able to make better wine in the future and more of it.’” — Wendy Thies Sell WDQ • 11 Musique & Vin au Clos Vougeot “Value Brands of the Year” Musique & Vin au Clos Vougeot is an extraordinary yearly event, a partnership between Burgundy’s wine community and some of the world’s greatest classical musicians. This prestigious and philanthropic festival takes place every June, when musicians of the highest caliber gather to celebrate chamber music masterworks in the magical atmosphere of Château du Clos Vougeot, itself a historic symbol of Burgundy and its classic terroir. “Commit these names to memory and you’ll never be at a loss for a well-priced bottle of wine. These are the brands that regularly turn out excellent wines for $18 or less, the ones that you can trust when every dollar counts. To find them, we looked at all the 12,000-some wines we tasted over the past year and selected out the brands with the most high-scoring wines in this price range.” “Pierre Sparr makes an array of Alsace whites that will rise to the occasion. They’ve been growing vines in Sigolsheim for 300 years, and work with a community of growers that provides fruit from 370 acres for the brand.”— Carson Demmond, Tasting Director June 2013 The idea for a sophisticated festival of music and wine took shape after a meeting in Manhattan in 2008 between wine professional and passionate musiclover Bernard Hervet and David Chan, concertmaster of New York’s Metropolitan Opera orchestra and an active soloist, recitalist and chamber musician. They were fortunate to receive almost immediate support from Aubert de Villaine of Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Erwan Faiveley of Domaine Faiveley, La Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin and the proprietors of the Château du Clos Vougeot. That first year they called upon French, American and Chinese artists for three exceptional evenings of chamber music at the Château, joined with soloists of the Metropolitan Opera of New York. The enthusiasm shown by artists and audience alike encouraged the Festival principals to expand their vision, and they soon set up a Young Talents Foundation, which is financed by an auction of grand cru wines generously donated by many domaines, businesses and individuals. Prestige and philanthropy are today the hallmarks of Musique & Vin au Clos Vougeot. Grants from the Young Talents Foundation have fostered younger artists and given them an opportunity to play with world-famous performers at Clos 12 • WDQ Vougeot and elsewhere. Every year the city of Beaune, in partnership with the Festival, hosts a free concert, dedicated to the young laureates awarded grants by Musique & Vin, at the historic site of the Hospices de Beaune wine auction. In addition, the Festival’s Instrumental Fund, created in 2010, helps young Dijonais musicians by providing free instruments and even commissioning new instruments to be built for them. Active partnership between sponsors, partners and the Festival will eventually enable the creation of 33 new musical instruments, each a work of art bearing the name of one of the 33 grands crus of Burgundy. As the Festival has grown, so, too has the range of music on offer. In 2012, the Festival created the “Orchestre Ephémère des Climats de Bourgogne,” or “Ephemeral Orchestra of the Terroirs of Burgundy,” as a way of honoring the region’s application to be listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. This afforded an opportunity to bring together an event-specific, global collection of musical artists to collaborate with members of the region’s own orchestra, the Orchestre Dijon Bourgogne. The Orchestre Ephémère now plays both at the yearly Festival and also at other events around the world. Finally, in addition to the Festival’s musical offerings, there are further sensual pleasures on offer before and after each concert. Remarkable wine tastings are now part of the tradition of the Festival, with 30 of the finest domaines of Burgundy pouring their best in the beautiful Cuverie of the Château du Clos Vougeot before each performance. Following the final concert of the festival, 250 guests then move on to a gala dinner, held in the Chateau’s Grand Cellier. This magnificent feast is the site of the annual auction, at which prestigious wines and art pieces are sold to underwrite the Festival’s charitable undertakings. As part of its steadfast commitment to Burgundy, Wilson Daniels is honored to be included in the distinguished network of partners and benefactors that have made Musique & Vin au Clos Vougeot possible. The Festival has succeeded beyond all expectations as a means of fostering a vibrant musical exchange between young and old, between students and mentors, and between France and the United States — collaborations ephemeral and eternal. WDQ • 13 The Grieve Family Winery is located in the Lovall Valley, perhaps Napa Valley’s last “undiscovered” growing area. The exquisite Grieve Family Winery Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc is the only 100 percent Lovall Valley wine in national distribution. Tiny Lovall Valley — only 1.25 miles towns of Napa and Sonoma, this tranquil spot is the last pocket heading south before the Mayacamas Mountains give way to Carneros and San Pablo Bay. The valley sits ringed by wooded hills at approximately 650 feet. It is accessible only from Sonoma, yet located in Napa County, where it is the coldest place in all of Napa to grow grapes. It is a Region One viticultural area and only comparable to the coolest regions of the Sonoma Coast. long and less — occupies a of geography, Straddling the Blessed with alluvial soils and a running creek to extend the growing season, Lovall Valley is ideal for cultivating Sauvignon Blanc. In 2002, David Grieve purchased a house and 70 acres of land there, including nearly 17 acres of two-year-old Sauvignon Blanc vines. It had not been David’s intention to make wine, but all that lovely Sauvignon Blanc seduced him. David than one-half mile wide unique position in terms climate and viticulture. county line between the The Ripening Progression of the Sauvignon Blanc Grape whose experience included stints at Hanzell, Acacia, and Kasmer & Blaize, and they set out to make Lovall Valley synonymous with the best Sauvignon Blanc in America. Organically-grown Clone 3 Sauvignon Blanc from Grieve’s Lovall Valley vineyard The Grieve Family Winery Sauvignon Blanc is comprised of CCOF-certified organic, 100 percent Sauvignon Blanc grapes, estate-grown and manifestly healthy. The fruit benefits from fine ocean-floor silt and shell soils that border the creek running through the vineyard, and from Lovall Valley’s unique cool microclimate, which leads to later budbreak and flowering. One of the Grieve Sauvignon Blanc vineyards is planted to Clone 3, the “Lost Clone” that was discovered by a UC Davis professor 20 years ago in an abandoned vineyard in the Sierra foothills. This lightbearing clone produces delicious fruit with a distinctive lemongrass flavor. started tasting the fruit, then sampling various Sauvignon Blancs, developing his palate and broadening his knowledge. Before long, he was making very small amounts of his own wine. Grieve’s other Lovall Valley Sauvignon Blanc vineyard is planted to a Loire clone, also used in the final blend. The resulting wine is fresh, crisp and long, with complex aromatics of hyacinth, grapefruit, lemongrass, hay and honeydew. In 2008, David was introduced to wineindustry veteran Vance Rose, who over the past 30 years had sought, sold and produced wine from California, Australia, France and Spain. They hit it off and determined to combine two of their shared passions The Clone 3 vineyard is also unique in that it is “doublefarmed,” due to the east-west orientation of its vineyard rows. Because they face the sun, the south sides of each row ripen first. The grapes on this side are picked, and then the leaves are stripped so that the north-facing sides will receive more sun and ripen in turn, to be picked three to four weeks later. This process is difficult, laborintensive and expensive, but it allows Grieve to make the best possible site-specific wine from Sauvignon Blanc grapes that have ripened to perfection (progessing through peaches to mango to guava flavors). — golf and wine — to create the Grieve Family Winery for Sauvignon Blanc and also a red Bordeaux blend called Double Eagle. David and Vance enlisted the services of winemaking consultant Michael Terrien, Double Eagle Napa Valley is a red blend composed of triple-sorted Merlot grown by David Grieve in the Lovall Valley, along with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from Napa Valley’s St. Helena AVA. The 2010 is the fourth release of this evocative Bordeaux blend, made from only the best barrels of each variety. Named for the rarest of golf shots* and uniquely packaged with a leather label, this wine is deep in color with cedary notes of caramel, anise, cassis, sweet cocoa and sage. This generous wine bursts with fruit; ready to drink now, but built to develop for years to come. * A “Double Eagle” is a hole played three strokes under par; it is also called an Albatross (for the non-golfing birdwatchers amongst us). Off-Road Wine by Nicolò Mascheroni Stianti November 2012, three bottles of Castello di Volpaia leave Milan to participate in the Dakar — the most challenging rally in the world — stowed on board three motorcycles to be ridden by three wellknown business men of Milan, members of the Endurology Motor Club. The Dakar is the toughest and most renown rally in the world. Created in 1979 by Thierry Sabine, until 2008 the course ran from Paris to Dakar. Due to the political instability of the sub-Saharan regions, the race has now moved to South America, becoming even more difficult and competitive. During the Dakar Rally, there have been countless participants injured and 26 riders have died. Lorenzo Napodano, Stefano Rampolla and Luca Viglio had always dreamt of participating in the Dakar Rally. Passionate rally riders, they live in Milan where they conduct their daily lives as CPAs, tax experts and a notary. Lorenzo funded Endurology Motor Club in 2009 as a pastime sport. Already the club has 32 associates who have participated in the Pharaon’s Rally in Egypt and many other competitions in Italy and Europe. But the real protagonists of this challenge have been the wives, supporting their husbands during the months of preparation prior to the race and during the race, when contacts are scarce and the mood of the riders alternates from excitement to depression. The physical effort is incredible. The participants ride their bikes for more than 8,500 kilometers of stone and sand deserts, almost always off track, climbing up to 16,000 feet for 14 days in a row. Lorenzo, during the race, lost 10 pounds in 15 days. . . the dream of his wife. Thinks Italian! 16 • WDQ As with all the participants in the race, the three bottles of Castello di Volpaia — one Chianti Classico Riserva, one Coltassala and one bottle of Il Puro — had to undertake an intensive training period and wear a new, state-ofthe-art technical suit to face this challenging adventure. Finally, during an emotional presentation ceremony in Milan, the wine was poured from its traditional glass bottles into extra-light, super-resistant aluminum bottles and loaded onto the same container with the motorcycles and the other technical apparel, destination Lima, Peru. “When we are lost in the middle of the desert, dehydrated and with no other option, we’ll drink these bottles of wine. We’ll either recover or die happily,” said Lorenzo during the presentation ceremony. These are the first-ever bottles of wine to participate in the Dakar. Not bad for an Italian wine to achieve this triumph in a French competition, and two bottles crossed the finish line! Participating in the Dakar isn’t so much of a difficulty, but getting safely to the end is an extraordinary feat! One of the bottles followed the destiny of one of the riders who withdrew from the race after a terrible accident, fortunately without consequences for the pilot. I don’t know if all the shaking during the race has made a better wine, and I will never know. None of the three Endurology riders got lost in the desert nor was about to die, but all three of them were rewarded at the end of the Dakar 2012 by drinking their bottle of Castello di Volpaia! WDQ • 17 Tardieu-Laurent 2011 Vintage Report 2011 was a vintage saved by the months Stunning New Tasting Room Completes a Perfect Picture of September and October! Thankfully, it was an exceptional harvest. A summerlike spring, a spring-like summer, then an optimal autumn — this, more or less, summarizes the 2011 vintage in the Rhône. Spring weather conditions were more typical of summer, suggesting that harvest would be relatively early. But summer resembled spring in character and slowed down the maturity of the grapes, above all that of Grenache. Autumn, however, improved everything and rewarded us with fantastic conditions for the harvest. In the south, growing conditions favored Syrah and Mourvèdre; Grenache suffered somewhat from a rainy, chilly July. Yields were high which tended to impede maturation and was a potential risk to the overall health of the grapes. As is so often the case in these conditions, old vines in great terroirs come into their own. Wines made from such vines — such as the wines from Tardieu-Laurent — are really exceptional. They are, however, the exception, representing a tiny portion of the overall production of the Rhône Valley. (Therefore, buyers beware and be careful when choosing your wines!) In the north, we were very close to a perfect vintage. A wonderfully cool, crisp July smiled on the Syrah. Unfortunately, rain in late August and early September impacted what was until then a vintage with extraordinary potential. That said, 2011 remains at a very high level, rich with fruit and varietal characteristics, faithful to terroirs so admired by wine lovers around the world. — Michel Tardieu 18 • WDQ Critical Acclaim for the 2011 Vintage Red Wines January-February 2013 by Josh Raynolds Tardieu-Laurent 2011 Gigondas Vieilles Vignes 89-91 points “Deep ruby. Smoke- and spice-accented aromas of cherry and candied lavender. Deeply pitched dark fruit flavors show very good energy and pick up an herbal nuance with air. Clings with very good tenacity, showing gentle tannins and very good persistence.” Tardieu-Laurent 2011 Vacqueyras Vieilles Vignes 90-92 points “Opaque ruby. A wild, intensely perfumed bouquet evokes candied red fruits, flowers and blood orange. Lively and precise on the palate, displaying sharply focused raspberry and bitter cherry flavors that gain flesh and sweetness with air. Silky tannins come on late and give shape to the long, spicy finish.” Tardieu-Laurent 2011 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Spéciale 90-92 points “Bright ruby. High-pitched aromas of raspberry and Asian spices are complemented by a subtle smoky quality and a hint of garrigue. Zesty and precise, with tangy red berry and bitter cherry flavors that show very good focus and pick up weight in the mid-palate. Closes on a gently tannic note, with lingering spice and mineral notes.” Tardieu-Laurent 2011 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes 91-93 points “Inky ruby. Intensely perfumed scents of cherry-cola, blackberry, and Asian spices. Weighty but focused dark fruit preserve flavors show striking clarity and palate-staining concentration, with silky tannins sneaking in on the back end. Balances richness and vivacity deftly, with impressive finishing energy and length.” The Ponzi family opened the doors to their new tasting room, adjacent to their stateof-the-art winery, in Sherwood, Oregon, on June 15 of this past summer. In keeping with their family’s endeavors, the facility was designed by Maria Ponzi’s husband, Brett Fogelstom of Fogelstrom Design Build in Portland, Oregon. The beautiful tasting facility complements the existing winery and enables visitors to not only enjoy the views and tableside wine service, but also tour the winery, or play a game of Bocce ball. The expansive lawn joins the new building to the winery and is available for private event bookings. “Ponzi Vineyards has grown significantly over the past four decades, but we remain grounded in our founding principles, offering world-class wines and warm hospitality. With tableside tastings we hope to set a new precedent in our region for an elevated tasting room experience,” said Maria Ponzi, proprietor and director of sales and marketing. Gershon Wolfe Photography Set atop a Chehalem Mountains slope, Ponzi’s state-of-the-art winery and tasting room are surrounded by the Avellana Vineyard. To make a reservation for one of their tours and tastings, contact the tasting room: 503-628-1227; http://ponziwines.com Introducing Bob Guinn We’ve got SOCIAL SKILLS: Senior Vice President of Sales and Marketing Guinn has spent much of his career building and leading successful sales initiatives, improving sales performance and assessing distribution strategies. His grasp of the supply and distribution channels, matched with a keen focus on developing relationships, drives his leadership style. Guinn is known for his motivational skills, integrity and common sense approach to business. Facebook.com/wdltd www.twitter.com/wilsondaniels Twitter@WilsonDaniels www.pinterest.com/wilsondaniels (View stunning images of our wines and wineries from around the world.) www.linkedin.com/company/wilson-daniels email: public_relations@wilsondaniels.com website: www.wilsondaniels.com Watch our Videos: http://www.wilsondaniels.com/our-portfolio/ news-and-videos/ W ilson Daniels welcomes Bob Guinn as senior vice president, overseeing wine sales and marketing for the entire USA. Guinn joins the Wilson Daniels team with more than 25 years of beverage industry experience. He began his career with Western Washington Beverage, in charge of chain accounts, followed by varied roles of responsibility with Columbia Wine & Spirits, BRL Hardy USA, and Constellation–Pacific Wine Partners. Most recently, Guinn put his senior executive talents to work at TGIC/ Titan Wine & Spirits and August Wine Group, as executive vice president. Guinn graduated from Washington State University with a Bachelor of Science degree in psychology. He is an avid golfer with 35 years of dedication to perfecting his backswing. Among his other interests are cooking, hiking, biking and water sports. Guinn and his fiancée, Maria, have relocated from southern California to Napa. Wilson Daniels 2014 Portfolio Tour SAVE THE DATE! Boston • Dallas • San Diego 20 • WDQ Above: Gainey Vineyard in the early days of operation Below: Gainey’s tasting room and barrel cellar “Wilson Daniels is fortunate to have Bob Guinn join our company. His wealth of experience along with his passion for great wines is a true asset. This strategic position will enhance our vision and continue to reinforce our prominence in the luxury segment,” states Jack Daniels. Email: bguinn@wilsondaniels.com Office: 707.967.1871 Mobile: 909.996.1846 View the videos from our 2013 Portfolio Tour: May 4 -10 Gets Gorgeous with sleek new labels San Francisco 2013 www.wilsondaniels.com/about-us/news-and-videos/news/6539 Las Vegas 2013 www.wilsondaniels.com/about-us/news-and-videos/news/6540 Chicago 2013 www.wilsondaniels.com/about-us/news-and-videos/news/6541 New packaging for estate-grown and bottled Gainey Vineyard has hit the shelves this year. There are few wineries in California that can state “Family Farmed Since 1962” on their labels. Four generations of the Gainey family have farmed Gainey Ranch in Santa Barbara County, one of the most bio-diverse farms in the state. Gainey wines are and have always been 100% estate produced and bottled, grown in the unique, east/west-oriented Santa Ynez Valley and the Sta. Rita Hills AVA, which is located in the cooler, western portion of the valley. Gainey follows sustainable viticultural practices, including using cover crops, compost and natural soil amendments. Weeds are controlled by hand rather than spraying with pre-emergent herbicides that can leach into the groundwater. Powdery mildew and harmful insect infestations are controlled with organic sprays. WDQ • 21 reprinted with permission JancisRobinson.com from Purple Pages: Tasting Articles Gris, but not in Sauvignon Blanc, where we actively discourage it to preserve the zesty acidity) then the diacetyl content is greatly reduced, and the wines are far less buttery as a result. We usually employ two to three months of lees ageing after fermentation to enable the wine to mature gracefully and take on more interesting characters, like the firm “oyster shell” taste this wine has on the finish. This is why we are bottling much later than most, but I think the results are well worth it. I learnt of this technique in 1999 after hearing of the work in Bordeaux done by Lavigne-Cruège et al.’” Kumeu River - an Auckland pearl 7 Jun 2013 by Julia Harding MW “Winemaker Michael Brajkovich MW (centre) was the chair of the judges in the Air New Zealand Wine Awards 2012, the original impetus for my visit to New Zealand at the end of last year. He whisked me straight off the ferry from Waiheke Island so that he and his brother Paul, marketing director (far right), could accompany me through a vertical tasting of their 2009 and 2010 Chardonnays. “My last visit to this West Auckland enclave of excellence was in 2000 and even then I remember being treated to a fine line-up of top-notch Chardonnays. This intensely family company continues to be under the managing directorship of Melba Brajkovich (second from left), mother of Michael, Paul, Milan (far left) and Marijana (second from right) and widow of Maté, who moved as a child from Croatia to Auckland in 1937 and sadly died in 1992. Milan is the vineyard manager and Marijana the marketing director. All were there for the barbecued-lamb lunch immediately after the tasting. (For more on the history of the family and much more, including a detailed vineyard map, go to the Kumeu River website, a model of clarity and lack of hype.) Michael Brajkovich would also be the first to give credit to their long-standing cellar master Nigel Tibbits, who has been with the company for three decades. “Unless it is to do with Chardonnay’s supporting role to Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand, I cannot fathom why the Kumeu River wines are not more widely recognised. They are highly rated on many markets but I still don’t think they get the recognition their quality (and great value) deserves. 22 • WDQ Milan, Melba, Michael, Marijana and Paul Brajkovich ~ the Kumeu River family winemakers “Kumeu River wines follow the Burgundy model: estate, village and single-vineyard wines. The estate’s soils are generally heavy, deep clay that cracks in summer, with sandstone way down below. They had always vinified the vineyard lots individually but in 1993 they started bottling Maté’s vineyard separately, adding Coddington (ripest and richest) and Hunting Hill (more floral) to the line up in 2006 — and there are other candidates for single-vineyard bottlings. They have been fermenting with ambient yeast since 1986, making them an excellent subject for Dr. Matt Goddard’s research into unique yeast populations (see my notes on Goldie). “Michael Brajkovich, who is both thoughtful and skilful, has a very particular way with yeast lees for his tank-fermented wines that contributes to the fine texture of the Chardonnay and helps him avoid any problems with excessive reduction or oxidation. His reference to this technique during the tasting reminded me of a brilliant explanation he sent several years ago when I asked him for more information: “‘Immediately after fermentation the wine is racked, and the yeast lees transferred into another vessel. The lees are then gently circulated with a pump while a small, measured dose of pure bottled oxygen is added using our micro-oxygenation equipment (although the dose is more macro than micro). This continues until no reductive odour remains, which usually takes a matter of a few minutes. Once thus treated, the yeast lees are added back to the bulk of the wine and stirred in. No reduction is evident, and the lees will not produce any further sulphide problems. This allows us to keep the wine on lees for an extended period, which was previously not possible in a stainless-steel tank because of the continuing evolution of sulphidic odours from the yeast lees. We can thus almost emulate the conditions found in a barrel for extended lees ageing, and the benefits are manifold. “‘Firstly the lees afford very good protection against oxidation. Secondly, the autolysis of the yeast over time releases the yeast contents into the wine and builds texture and mid-palate weight to the wine, which is not possible if the wine is racked early. This is the real benefit of “lees ageing”. Thirdly, if any MLF has occurred in the wine (relevant in Chardonnay and Pinot — Julia Harding MW Kumeu River Village Chardonnay 2009, Kumeu 16 Drink 2012-2014 “One-third older barrels. Racked off lees, lees oxygenated, then added back for a few months. Defaix in Chablis does the same. Delicate citrus and stony nose. Unexpected density on the palate and that richness from the lees but with mineral tension on the finish. Something Austrian about it. Or the clay character of Mâcon. Freshness and persistence but restrained in flavour. (JH) 13% (ALC.)” Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay 2009, Kumeu 16.5 Drink 2012-2015 “All barrel fermented, 20% new. More traditional winemaking, ie up to 24 ºC in barrel (20 ºC in tank – yeast much happier). H2S is blown off with the warmer temperature which also gives more varietal flavour. More esters created if the yeasts struggle. Delicate toasty note. And some spice and orange zest. Tight and long and so fresh. Elegant with some grip that adds length. Have to get tannin right at the juice stage, says winemaker Michael Brajkovich. Gentle toast on the finish. Very long. (JH) 13% (ALC.)” Kumeu River Coddington Chardonnay 2009, Kumeu 17 Drink 2013-2016 “Vineyard faces north and is sheltered. Both fragrant and smoky. Gentle toast and a mealy note. Delicate stone fruit and citrus and orange flavours hide the power. Copes with higher toast and 25% new oak (Claude Gillet). Rich on the palate. Intense but still fresh and has a certain sweetness on the finish. Touch of botrytis in this vineyard, apparently. (JH) 13.5% (ALC.)” Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay 2009, Kumeu 18 Drink 2013-2018 “Exposed to westerly winds and gets sugar ripeness early. Ripe lemon flavours when you taste the fruit in the vineyard. Uses the barrels that are more gentle on the flavour (François Frères). Opens up more slowly than the Coddington. Much more mineral and stony and austere on the palate. On the nose very mineral (slightly reductive) but there is still a slight floral note that emerges. Delicate, refined, long and great acid length. You almost miss the blossom through the minerality. Apparently the 2006 is looking very good now. (JH) 13% (ALC.)” Kumeu River Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2009, Kumeu 17.5 Drink 2013-2020 “Barrels are by Séguin Moreau and Mercurey so quite strong but not as strong as the Gillet. 30% new oak. Older vines and Mendoza clone. Planted 1990. Last vineyard picked each year. Leafroll virus is in Mendoza clone so you get millerandage (some small berries within the bunches) but also harder to ripen. Green fruit and hay and a touch of caramel sweetness. More spicy too and oak very discreet. Complex and has a definite phenolic grip. Mealy and long and so fresh. Lovely delicate reductive notes and smoky. Very creamy too, especially on the nose. (JH) 13.5% (ALC.)” WDQ • 23 Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay New Zealand’s Benchmark for Ageability 2007 Estate Chardonnay Wine Spectator: 92 points Financial Times “A wonderful balance between crisp, steely notes of citrus, pear and green apple and complex flavor nuances on a smooth texture, with floral, lime peel and tobacco details. The finish just goes on and on. Drink now through 2016.” MaryAnn Worobiec, June 30, 2011 winereviewonline: 92 points Wine Enthusiast: 91 points, Editors’ Choice “Michael Brajkovich MW of Kumeu River is one of surprisingly few New Zealand winemakers to take Chardonnay seriously. This 2007 Estate bottling is ridiculously good, and mature.” Jancis Robinson, September 13, 2013 “...In addition to subtle fresh tropical fruit notes, it conveys minerality and marvelous richness. Subtle toasty oak enhances the overall impression. It has marvelous length and finesse. It delivers far more than the price suggests.” Michael Apstein, May 31, 2011 Wine Spectator 2009 Top 100: 92 points, #41 “New Zealand’s iconic producer of Chardonnay...the wines have tremendous vibrancy. Hand-harvested, whole-bunch pressed and fermented in oak barrels with indigenous yeast, this ‘07 got the full Burgundian treatment. Despite 100 percent malolactic and 11 months in barrel, it delivers mouthwatering acidity and bright flavors. Drink now through 2017.” Harvey Steiman, Dec. 31, 2009Jan. 15, 2010 “Bright, tangy and elegant, this vibrant wine has grapefruit and pineapple flavors at the fore, picking up apple and spice as the finish lingers effortlessly. Drink now through 2017.” Harvey Steiman, November 15, 2009 eRobertParker.com: 92 points “There’s an intense peach and butterscotch character on the nose with notes of lemon curd and honeysuckle plus a touch of ginger nut. Medium bodied with crisp acid and great concentration, it has a long finish.” Lisa Perrotti-Brown, November 2010 Wine Enthusiast: 90 points “...remains among the finest in New Zealand, beautifully balancing oak and fruit in an intricate ballet of toast, vanilla, melon and pineapple. It’s full bodied and round in the mouth, with no harsh or discordant notes on the lingering finish.” Joe Czerwinski, July 2010 The Wine Advocate: 91 points “...wonderful nose that has you instantly hooked, capturing the essence of a Meursault with hints of roasted almonds and smoke. The palate is very well balanced, very clean on the entry but building nicely to a weighty, honeyed middle with touches of almond, hazelnut, lemon and spice with great persistency on the finish. Michael Brajkovich produced a brilliant array of 2007s...If you have never tried these wines, then it is time you see for yourself what New Zealand is capable of. All his Chardonnays can be drunk immediately but do resist temptation and save some bottles to drink over 5-6 years (or more) as they can age beautifully...” Neal Martin, September 2009 2008 Estate Chardonnay Wine Spectator 2011 Top 100: 92 points “A benchmark for New Zealand Chardonnay, Kumeu River is located in the Kumeu region, whose cool Pacificinfluenced climate is remarkably consistent each year. This estate Chardonnay from choice parcels on the 99 acres Kumeu owns or maintains was fermented and aged 11 months in barrel.” December 31, 2011 24 • WDQ “A blend of several vineyard parcels, Kumeu River’s Estate bottling is the best value in the winery’s impressive lineup of 2008 Chardonnays. It shows all of the toasty, leesy notes of the single-vineyard wines, medium body and a bright core of zesty pineapple fruit. Drink now-2014.” Joe Czerwinski, June 2011 eRobertParker.com: 91 points “...barrel fermented using natural yeasts and about 20% new French oak. 100% goes through malolactic. It has pronounced passion fruit, ripe white peach, green mango and toast aromas with some cashew and oatmeal and a whiff of lemon curd. Very crisp, tight and medium bodied, the toast and exotic fruit flavors are concentrated, encased in a creamy texture and leading to a very long finish. This wine is still a little tight and will benefit from 6-12 months in bottle, drinking until 2016+...Maté [Brajkovich], started this winery in the 1940s. ‘We planted a lot of different varieties,’ Paul [Brajkovich] told me. ‘The Chardonnay came out as a star early-on.’ Sixty-odd years on and the brothers have progressed their father’s life’s work, now producing some of New Zealand’s greatest Chardonnays, not to mention the world’s.” Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, October 2010 2009 Estate Chardonnay jamessuckling.com: 90 points “A gorgeous wine with apple pie, cream, and mineral undertones. Some melon. Full and balanced with attractive oak character such as cream. Made from grapes from six different vineyards.” James Suckling, December 28, 2012 Critical Acclaim 2010 It’s A Game! 90 points “Bright and fruity, with hints of spices and berry, and a fruit tea undertone. Full body, with fine tannins and a fresh, clean finish.” jamessuckling.com (June 19, 2013) 2010 Soffocone di Vincigliata 90 points “Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a vanilla, walnut and dried fruit character on the finish…Always an outstanding red.” jamessuckling.com (November 26, 2012) 90 points “The cherry, plum and tobacco flavors are expressive in this harmonious red, lingering with firm tannins and a spicy finish. Sangiovese with Canaiolo and Colorino. . .” Wine Spectator (October 15, 2013) 2010 Testamatta 98 points “This is the same quality or better than the legendary 2006. Lovely aromas of berries, chocolate and walnuts follow through to a full body with loads of fruit and chewy tannins that are polished and velvety…Pure sangiovese.” jamessuckling.com (September 1, 2013) Wine Spectator: 91 points “Rich and deep...toasted hazelnut, fig and citrus flavors that have a smooth texture and vibrant acidity. The aromatics are the star here, with honeysuckle, lemon zest and green apple notes that leap out of the glass and push through on the finish. Drink now through 2016.” MaryAnn Worobiec, June 15, 2012 eRobertParker.com: 91 points “...gives intense notes of ripe apricots, guava, green mango and honey coated nuts with nuances of lightly browned toast and white blossoms. Medium bodied with a silken texture, it gives great concentration, crisp acidity and a long toasty finish. Drinking now, it should cellar to 2016+.” Lisa Perrotti-Brown, October 2011 Estate Chardonnay jamessuckling.com (Video) James Suckling visits Kumeu River winery in Auckland, New Zealand. As part of his interview with Michael Brajkovich, James tastes older vintages of Kumeu River, which still have great structure in their age, dispelling the notion that New Zealand wines should always be drunk young. Michael admits that the aging process of his wines is very vineyard dependent, as vineyards also have the ability to age. December 20, 2012 2009 Testamatta 96 points, jamessuckling.com (April 12, 2012) 92 points, Wine Spectator (Bruce Sanderson, February 13, 2013) 92 points, Wine Enthusiast (Monica Larner, July 5, 2012) 91 points, Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar (Ian D’Agata, July 1, 2012) 90 points, The Wine Advocate (Antonio Galloni, June 30, 2012) 2008 Colore 99 points “This is a phenomenal, tiny production red made mostly from the grapes of colorino and cannaiolo. It [has] just an amazing density and richness yet remains bright and velvety texture. It has so much intensity of dark cherry, spice and hints of chocolate. Very long finish…Superb.” jamessuckling.com (September 1, 2013) WDQ • 25 Introducing Sipsmith (cont.) all over the world to create a London dry gin that is smooth, full of character and positively bursting with flavor. Sipsmith uses a traditional recipe that would not have surprised a master distiller from the nineteenth century. This recipe includes Macedonian juniper berries, Seville orange peel, Spanish lemon peel, Italian orris root, Spanish licorice root, Belgian angelica root, Madagascan cinnamon bark, Chinese cassia bark, Spanish ground almond and Bulgarian coriander seed. Introducing Sipsmith: London’s first COPPER Distillery in nearly 200 years Every now and then something extraordinary comes along, and the arrival of Sipsmith London Dry Gin in the United States is just such an occasion. Sipsmith London Dry Gin is the flagship spirit of a passionate, independent English micro-distiller from London. Copper pot distilling was nearly a lost art in London when, in 2009, Sipsmith commissioned the first new copper still in nearly 200 years. This marvelous still, named Prudence, spearheaded the resurgence of small-batch English spirits and embodies the sheer artistry of distillation. Sipsmith is the genuine article, made in the classic London dry gin style, but using craft methods — a process Sipsmith refers to as “Craft Classic.” Sipsmith founders Sam Galsworthy and Fairfax Hall grew up as childhood friends and schoolmates in Cornwall, England. During the late 1990s, they both found themselves in the United States, fascinated by a handful of small American breweries producing tiny quantities of handcrafted beer. Sam and Fairfax were determined to reintroduce the notion of “craft” back to 26 • WDQ Jared Brown, master distiller, Sam Galsworthy and Fairfax Hall, Sipsmith founders, with the fourth member of the team, Prudence, their copper pot still London and become the only working craft distillery authentically making traditionalstyle gin. In 2006, they returned to England, where they found that Beefeater was the only copper distillery making authentic London dry gin in London. Inspired by their American experience, Sam and Fairfax set out to prove that they could make a better product — hand-crafted and distilled in small batches — and deliver phenomenal quality as well. Enter drinks historian and master distiller Jared Brown. Like Sam and Fairfax, Jared’s heart was set on making a truly authentic, traditional London dry gin. In 2009, Sipsmith was granted the first distiller’s license in London in nearly 200 years. They set up shop in Brackenbury Village, near Hammersmith, and on March 14, 2009, the first bottle of Sipsmith London Dry Gin was crafted. The name Sipsmith was inspired by Fairfax Hall’s father, a well-known silversmith in the UK. After months of trying to settle on the right name, he suggested that they in fact, like him, were “smiths” — crafting something beautiful from raw materials. As for what manner of “smiths” they were to be, Sam and Fairfax decided on “Sip,” as they felt the word truly conjures up the notion of quality, treasuring, lingering and enjoyment — thus, Sipsmith. Only the finest ingredients go into Sipsmith London Dry Gin, including English barley, carefully selected botanicals and the exceptionally pure water of Lydwell Spring, the source of the River Thames. Ten classic gin botanicals are gathered from method produces only 400 bottles per distillation, but delivers perfect balance with real intensity and character. Using the one-shot method, Sipsmith puts precisely the right amount of alcohol into the pot so what comes over in the cuts is the gin, and all that needs to happen after that is the addition of pure spring water. Although the use of concentrate increases capacity, it ultimately requires not only the use of greater amounts of botanicals, but also the resulting gin must be diluted with neutral alcohol to stretch the flavors before water can be added. The benefit of one shot is that by eliminating the addition of neutral alcohol, the flavor is far richer and rounder. Evidenced by some 20-plus major awards in the last four years, the Sipsmith approach creates a spirit of uncompromising quality with layers of complex, classic flavors and aromatics. Having already taken Europe and the Southern Hemisphere by storm, Sipsmith is thrilled to partner with Wilson Daniels and finally cross the pond! While the staff at Sipsmith is ever-growing, they know full well that Prudence is the most important member of the team. Prudence — and now her little sister Patience — were crafted by Germany’s oldest still producer, Christian CARL, a company that has been fabricating artisan copper pot stills since 1869. Sipsmith London Dry Gin begins with a 15-hour maceration of the botanicals in Patience, prior to distillation in Prudence. This affords ample time for the flavors and aromas from the botanicals to fully express a wide and complex range of volatile oils infused into the spirit. Magic happens as the infused spirit journeys from liquid to vapor, passing through Prudence’s curved swan’s neck before transforming into gin as it travels through the cooling column. The temperature and speed at which the still is run are critical to the development of the Sipsmith character. Only master distiller Jared knows the secret of when to take the “middle cut” — the best, the “heart” of what the marriage of botanicals and spirit has to offer — leaving the heads and tails behind. Sipsmith London Dry Gin is one of the few gins in the world made by hand using the traditional “one shot” method, rather than made from concentrate. The one-shot Sipsmith London Dry Gin is made by hand using the traditional “one shot” method, producing only 400 bottles per distillation, but delivering perfect balance with rich character and real intensity. WDQ • 27 2013 Portfolio CALIFORNIA Oregon NEW ZEALAND FRANCE Ponzi Vineyards Kumeu River Pierre Sparr Napa Valley Willamette Valley Red Wine Pinot Gris Pinot Blanc Arneis Chardonnay Reserve Chardonnay, Aurora Vineyard Chardonnay, Avellana Vineyard Pinot Noir Rosé Pinot Noir, Tavola Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, Reserve ** Pinot Noir, Abetina Vineyard *** Pinot Noir, Abetina 2*** Pinot Noir, Aurora Vineyard *** Pinot Noir, Avellana Vineyard *** Pinot Noir, Vigneto Double Eagle Grieve Family Winery Sauvignon Blanc Hyde de Villaine (HdV) Chardonnay, Hyde Vineyard, Carneros Belle Cousine, Hyde Vineyard, Carneros J. Davies Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Mountain ** Schramsberg Vineyards Mirabelle Brut, Non-Vintage Mirabelle Brut Rosé, Non-Vintage Blanc de Blancs */** Blanc de Noirs Brut Rosé J. Schram ** J. Schram Rosé *** Reserve ** Crémant Demi-sec CALIFORNIA/ Oregon RouteStock Chardonnay, Carneros Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Santa Barbara County Gainey Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Santa Ynez Valley Chardonnay, Sta. Rita Hills Riesling, Santa Ynez Valley Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills Merlot, Santa Ynez Valley Santa Maria Valley Presqu’ile Winery Chardonnay Pinot Noir Pinot Noir, Presqu’ile Vineyard SPIRIT S UNITED KINGDOM London Sipsmith London Dry Gin NEW YORK Hudson Valley Coppersea Distilling (Coming soon!) New York Raw Rye Kumeu Pinot Gris Chardonnay, Village Chardonnay, Estate Chardonnay, Coddington Chardonnay, Hunting Hill Chardonnay, Maté’s Vineyard 2 013 P o r t f o l i o FRANCE Alsace Rhône Valley HUNGARY Saint-Péray Vieilles Vignes Hermitage Blanc Condrieu Les Becs Fins, Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Les Becs Fins Blanc, Côtes-du-Rhône Villages La Bastide de Rhodarès, Côtes du Luberon Guy Louis Côtes-du-Rhône Guy Louis Blanc, Côtes-du-Rhône Rasteau Vieilles Vignes Bandol Bordeaux Crozes-Hermitage Vieilles Vignes Château Simard Saint-Joseph Les Roches Vieilles Vignes Saint-Émilion Gigondas Vieilles Vignes Vacqueyras Vieilles Vignes Châteauneuf-du-Pape Burgundy Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Spéciale Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes Vosne-Romanée Cuvée Duvault-Blochet Premier Cru *** Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Vieilles Vignes Corton Prince Florent de Mérode Grand Cru Côte-Rôtie Échézeaux Grand Cru Hermitage Grands Échézeaux Grand Cru Cornas Coteaux Romanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru Cornas Vieilles Vignes Richebourg Grand Cru La Tâche Grand Cru (Monopole) Chêne Bleu Romanée-Conti Grand Cru (Monopole) Rosé, AOC Ventoux Montrachet Grand Cru Viognier, IGP Vaucluse Aliot, Vin de Pays du Vaucluse Domaine Leflaive Héloïse, Vin de Pays du Vaucluse Mâcon-Verzé (Domaines Leflaive) Abélard, Vin de Pays du Vaucluse Bourgogne Blanc Puligny-Montrachet Languedoc Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles Mas La Chevalière (Laroche) Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes Vignoble Peyroli, IGP Pays d’Oc Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières De La Chevalière (Laroche) Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d’Âne Sauvignon Blanc, IGP Pays d’Oc Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Chardonnay, IGP Pays d’Oc Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Rosé, IGP Pays d’Oc Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru Pinot Noir, IGP Pays d’Oc Royal Tokaji Chablis Marlborough Mount Nelson (Tenuta Campo di Sasso Ltd.) Sauvignon Blanc Frenzy Sauvignon Blanc CHILE Casablanca Valley Viña Punto Alto (Laroche) Pinot Noir, Casablanca Valley Punto Niño (Laroche) Chardonnay Reserva, Casablanca Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva, Maïpo Valley Carménère Reserva, Colchagua Valley SOUTH AFRICA Stellenbosch L’Avenir (Laroche) Pinotage, Stellenbosch By L’Avenir (Laroche) Chenin Blanc, Western Cape Pinotage, Western Cape Tokaj Furmint Mád Cuvée (Late Harvest) Red Label, 5 Puttonyos Betsek, 6 Puttonyos, First Growth Szt. Tamás, 6 Puttonyos, First Growth Mézes Mály, 6 Puttonyos, Great First Growth Essencia *** Crémant d’Alsace Brut Réserve Crémant d’Alsace Brut Rosé Alsace One Pinot Blanc Pinot Gris Riesling Gewurztraminer Marquis de Perlade Blanc de Blancs Tardieu-Laurent Cabernet Sauvignon, IGP Pays d’Oc Domaine Laroche Chablis Saint Martin Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaudevey Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaillons Vieilles Vignes Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos Chablis Grand Cru Réserve de l’Obédience Loire Valley Clau de Nell ITALY Friuli-Venezia Giulia Barrymore Pinot Grigio, Delle Venezie IGT Tuscany Bibi Graetz Casamatta Bianco Casamatta Rosé Casamatta Rosso It’s a Game! Soffocone di Vincigliata Testamatta Colore Tenuta Campo di Sasso Insoglio del Cinghiale Castello di Volpaia Citto **** Indue Chianti Classico DOCG Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Coltassala, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG Il Puro Riserva, Chianti Classico DOCG Vinsanto del Chianti Classico DOC Prelius Vermentino, Maremma Toscana IGT Cabernet Sauvignon, Maremma Toscana IGT Tenuta dei Pianali Coronato, DOC Bolgheri Veneto Buglioni Il Bugiardo Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC Ripasso Il Recioto della Valpolicella Classico DOC Il Valpolicella Classico DOC Il Vigliacco Spumante Brut Rosé L’Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC L’Amarone Riserva della Valpolicella Classico DOC Lo Spudorato Spumante Brut Grolleau, Vin de Pays du Val de Loire Cuvée Violette, Anjou AOC Cabernet Franc, Anjou AOC Laroche Bourgogne Chardonnay Tête de Cuvée Petit Chablis 28 • WDQ Represented by Wilson Daniels • St. Helena, CA 94574 • 707.963.9661 • www.wilsondaniels.com * Half bottles available ** Large format available *** Not available every year ****Available by special order Exclusively Imported by Wilson Daniels • St. Helena, CA 94574 • 707.963.9661 • www.wilsondaniels.com * Half bottles available ** Large format available *** Not available every year ****Available by special order WDQ • 29 Letter from Jack Daniels: With the holiday season upon us, I’m proud to announce another celebration that is close to my heart — Wilson Daniels is celebrating its 35th birthday! Reflecting upon the year 1978, Jimmy Carter was president, the Dallas Cowboys won the Super Bowl, the most popular television show was Laverne and Shirley, and Sony introduced the first portable music player — the Walkman. Win and I became partners, opened our doors for business and ultimately became a part of that year’s history. Times have changed, political figures have come and gone, technology has advanced, and the wine industry has evolved into a virtual and hashtag reality. However, the singular premise upon which our company was founded remains ever-present — quality is the keystone at Wilson Daniels. Wilson Daniels was established by seeking out the best wines from the finest winegrowing regions. We earned the trust of our family-owned winery partners and our customers. Our core values: passion, respect, integrity and excellence have not altered over the years. As a principle, we remain focused on small-production wines of distinction, with the most recent addition of craft spirits. This year, we are introducing two exceptional wineries from France: Clau de Nell, the Loire Valley biodynamic vineyards of Anne-Claude Leflaive and her husband, Christian Jacques, who are making red wines for the first time; and Chêne Bleu, a unique property high on the slopes of the Dentelles de Montmirail in southern Rhône. The Rolet family restored and rebuilt this ancient monastery from the ground and vineyard level up, including a state-ofthe-art winery. Chêne Bleu wines have been described as the first “Super Rhônes.” Jack Daniels, a few years ago. . . From California, Wilson Daniels now has the wines of Presqu’ile Winery in Santa Maria Valley and Grieve Family Winery in Lovall Valley. Both exemplify small-quantity, superiorquality production from family-owned, estate-grown fruit. Another exciting introduction this year is Sipsmith London Dry Gin, and launching early next year Coppersea Hudson Valley Raw Rye — both handcrafted, authentic spirits that are produced in the most unique, small-batch method. We’ve discovered synergy with the addition of these independent, small-production craft spirits that is consistent with our company vision, growth and commitment to quality. I want to thank you and our team for the continued support and hard work during this past year as we continue to refine and enhance our portfolio. We are still thriving after 35 years — quality will always prevail! Cheers, Jack Daniels President and Founder www.wilsondaniels.com