Skye Ridge MiniGUIDE - blue-roan

Transcription

Skye Ridge
Bookle
MiniGUIDE
t Vers
io
n
PDF page 1
by Andy Hyslop
Version 2.1 - October 2002
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Skye Ridge
Skye Ridge MiniGUIDE
by Andy Hyslop
ROCKFAX MiniGuide design by Alan James and Mick Ryan.
Published by ROCKFAX Ltd. © ROCKFAX Ltd. 2002
Colin Binks descending Sgurr Dubh na da
Bheinn. Sgurr Alasdair and Sgurr Thearlaich
are the two peaks in the distance with the
TD Gap below. Photo: Chris Craggs
The most famous
mountaineering
expedition
in Britain
SKYE RIDGE Bruach na Frithe to Sgurr nan Gillean
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Skye Ridge MiniGUIDE
to Sligachan
’Mhaim
ch a
Beala
to Glen
Brittle
by Andy Hyslop
z Leaving summit of Am
Bhaisteir, keep to the crest
then cut off right down a
rubble ramp.
l From the Bruach na
Frithe, traverse right, then
left and then directly over
a lump leading to the foot
of the Bhaisteir Tooth
Feedback comments added from Bob Wightman
ROCKFAX MiniGuide design by Alan James and Mick Ryan.
First published by ROCKFAX Ltd. © ROCKFAX Ltd. 2002
x Cut back left until
bealach is reched.
Fionn
Choire
COPYRIGHT NOTICE
All rights reserved. No part of this file may be duplicated in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical or other means, without the prior permission from the publisher.
This file has been branded as belonging to the registered user of the ROCKFAX web
site shown below. The entitles the individual to free updates of the same file within the
same version number. Any illegal copying of this file by any electronic, mechanical or
other means negates this entitlement. Please help us fund more MiniGuides by not
distributing this copy. Even if you think you are just printing out an extra copy for one of
your friends do you really know who your friend will give it to?
Bruach na Frithe
Bealach
Bhasteir
Bealach
nan Lice
Sgurr nan Gillean
Am Bhasteir
; The Bhasteir Tooth
c Ascending Gillean
See below
See below
hoot
Stone s
Sgurr na
Bhairnich
BRUACH NA FRITHE to SGURR NAN GILLEAN
The final push to the finish (and the sting in the
tail). The ascent of Am Bhasteir marks the end of
the technical difficulties.
; The Bhasteir Tooth
Climb the tooth then descend down a ‘roof’ and
cross a gap. After a few metres look up right and
follow a wide basalt chimney over a barrier to
just below the summit of Am Bhasteir.
There are two options for climbing the tooth:
Naismith’s Route - Traverse right across ledges to
the foot of a crack which is climbed with a kink
back left to the top (Severe).
0
500m
1km
FOOTNOTE
Lota Corrie Route - Descend a stone shoot below
the Tooth to the south east. Look for a break
in the rock barrier on the left wall of the shoot.
Attain this and follow a steep ramp back up to
join the basalt chimney just before the summit
(Moderate).
ESCAPE - Easily down from Bealach a’ Bhasteir.
c Ascending Gillean
From the bealach, take the ridge direct to the
first lump, then follow a good path on the left for
70m, to a broad, open chimney. A scramble up
this leads to where the gendarme was. Follow
the ridge more or less directly, threading the
‘needle’ just before the summit.
The inclusion of an area in this MiniGuide does not mean that you have a right of
access to it. The description of the route and the grades given within this MiniGuide are
recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on the accuracy
of the description. People who attempt a climb of a particular standard should use their
own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle the route. This book is
not a substitute for experience and proper judgment. The authors and publisher of this
MiniGuide do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, people,
third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on this guidebook
as an assurance for their own safety.
DESCENT FROM THE RIDGE
16 hours
12 hours
6.5 hours
4.5 hours
To t a l t i m e f r o m G A R S - B H E I N N
to SGURR NAN GILLEAN
10
SKYE RIDGE Version 2.1 - October 2002
Descend Gillean easily via the south east ridge
then walk back Sligachan for a welcome drink
(about 5km to the road and supplies which takes
from1 to 1.5 hours). Hitching from here back to
Glen Brittle can be problematical.
Alternatively, leave your gear at Bealach a’ Bhasteir
and tick Gillean. Return to the bealach and drop
off the ridge to the north to pick up the path
which leads to the road to Glen Brittle via Bealach
a’ Mhaim (about 7km to the road but a further
4km to Glen Brittle).
Registered to xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx REF yyyyyyyy
More print and PDF publications from
0
500m
SKYE RIDGE The Three Tops of Mhadaidh to Bruach na Frithe
1km
Fionn
Choire
Map not to scale
Down-climb
k Ascent of Bruach na frithe
See below
Bealach
nan Lice
E
See below
Di
mp
Red ra
An
Caisteal
The Inn Pinn. Photo: Chris Craggs
The Three
Tops of
Mhadaidh
Best Conditions
The weather in Skye, and particularly in the Cuillin, is notoriously difficult to predict most of the year.
Even during a settled period of weather a high tide can bring cloudy, wet conditions to the Cuillin for
a few hours, clearing again at low tide. Early May might have a good spell, but check the amount of
old snow left on the ridge, as this can slow progress on certain sections. From late May to early June
a high pressure system can sometimes give a couple of weeks of clear stable weather. Plan to go
in this period and, if possible, to be able to leave at short notice. The ideal temperature on the ridge
should be between 8 and 10 degrees C.
It is a possible to get good spells at any time from May to about mid-October but you must be even
more prepared to head north at the drop of a hat. Other problems surrounding brief weather windows may be that some of the climbing sections may not have had time to dry, particularly the TD
(Thearlaich-Dubh) Gap and the Bhasteir Tooth.
UKClimbing.com - www.ukclimbing.com/crags/guides/weather.html
Mountain Weather - www.onlineweather.com/v4/uk/mountain/index.html
Scotland Online - www.scotlandonline.com/weather/weather_specialist.cfm
BBC Weather - www.bbc.co.uk/weather/
D
C
Cracked
block
er
rri
ba
South Summit
B
Bridge
Rock
ke
ke
See below
Bidein
Basalt
staircase
Bidein Druim nan Ramh
THE THREE TOPS OF MHADAIDH
to BRUACH NA FRITHE
This section involves some of the most complex
route finding of the ridge during the traverse of
Bidein.
The three summits of Bidein form a complex set
of peaks which can prove very awkward, especially in the mist.
A) From Bealach na Glaic Moire follow the crest to
the first lump, then traverse left, coming back to
the crest via a basalt staircase. Soon after follow
another basalt staircase to just below the first
summit.
B) Traverse on the right to reach the bridge rock
at the end of the gap.
C) Ascend direct from the bridge rock via a steep
scoop to scree. Take a short basalt chimney
above then trend right to the summit of the main
top.
D) Come back from the summit then take the first
(not obvious) dike 5m back to the crest. DO NOT
take the more-tempting larger dike below.
E) Descend slabs right of the crest to a gap then
follow another dike on the left-hand side of the
crest until a steep down-climb zigzags to the
bealach.
F) Ascend the north summit drectly.
j Ascent of An Caisteal
From the bealach below the north top of Bidein,
ascend directly, passing the first lump via a
good traverse path on the left. Eventually head
up to the crest, which is followed to just below
the summit of An Caisteal. Locate a red ramp
which leads from the left down to an awkward
down-climb and the next bealach.
k Ascent of Bruach na Frithe
Start traversing up and cross a stone shoot
close to the crest. A good path, just below and
left of the crest, leads to a lump. Continue in
the same line on another good path, which
leads back to the crest, close to the summit of
Bruach na Frithe.
WATER - There is a spring in Fionn Choire (at
462255). You must descend about 200m from
Bealach nan Lice and climb back up to the same
point.
ESCAPE - Descend easily into Fionn Choire.
12.5 hours
9.5 hours
5.5 hours
4 hours
to BRUACH NA FRITHE
10
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h The Traverse of Bidein
h The Traverse of Bidein
e
j Ascent of An Caisteal
This expedition is a major undertaking involving a very long day in the mountains and, in good conditions, most will need to be well prepared to ensure success. This MiniGuide is aimed at giving you the
information you need to make a one day traverse. Many parties take longer than one day to do the
ridge and, although they may well be successful, it is not advised owning to the poor bivvy sites and
the changeable weather. A better plan is to make several ‘reccy’ trips on various sections to prepare
yourself for a one day attempt (for more info on multi-day attempts see Bivvy gear on page 3).
To do the whole ridge in a day you need to be ‘mountain fit’ and be able to easily cope with at least
VDiff technical climbing with a light sack but preferably VS to give yourself a fighting chance of moving fast over huge amount of semi-technical ground, and the option to follow the best route. However,
you also need to be prepared to abandon your attempt if the weather turns nasty or circumstances
turn against you. We have marked most of the straightforward escape routes on the topos but it is
possible to drop off the ridge from many other points as long as you take care.
1
F
Dik
Sgurr na
Bhairnich
hoot
Stone s
North
Summit
Down-climb or abseil
A
A Word of Caution
Bealach
Harta
Cut left from the bealach,
on a ledge. Tricky climbing
leads back to the ridge.
Bruach na Frithe
ck
Ro
The most famous mountaineering expedition in Britain is the
Skye Ridge. With over 3000m of ascent spread along 10km of
spectacular mountain scenery, this fabulous trip is high on the
tick list of climbers and adventurous walkers alike. Fourteen
Munros are packed into its length with the Inaccessible Pinnacle
being the toughest of all the Scottish Munros. To complete the
traverse within a single day is the main aim since bivvy sites on
the ridge are poor. The changeable nature of the weather adds
to the difficulties and good planning and speed are essential in
order to ensure success.
This MiniGuide has been put together after years of experience
on the ridge. The topos provide key route tips for every section
and the general logistics advice need to plan your attempt.
For those into a more demanding type of activity running the
ridge offers an awesome challenge to test both running fitness and climbing skills. There are records for the main ridge
(3:32:15) and the ‘Super Traverse’ of the Red Cuillin, Blaven,
Clach Glas plus The Main Ridge (21:22:00).
More info on the Cuillin Records www.xldh.demon.co.uk/aac/
samp-rnd.htm
Di
SKYE RIDGE
SKYE RIDGE Sgurr na Banachdich to The Three Tops of Mhadaidh
LOGISTICS
Location
An
Caisteal
g The Three Tops of Mhadaidh - See below
Skye is situated off the west coast of Scotland, separated from the mainland by the Skye Bridge (£5
each way per car). The drive from Glasgow is about 200 miles and 5 hours and is often frustrated
by the presence of caravans and people who don’t seem to be in a hurry. Two alternatives to the
expensive and controversial Skye Bridge are the ferries at Mallaig (about £30 but 75km less driving)
and Glen Eilg (same price and distance as bridge).
Camping
f Descent of Mhaidaih - See below
Bealach na
Glaic Moire
An Dorus
Sgurr a’Mhaidaih
a Descend and keep to the left of The Wart
s After The Wart, switch to the right-hand side
p Keep close to the crest on ascent to
Ghreadaidh mainly on the left, with a
complex area between the 2 summits.
The Wart
with a couple of short down climbs to An Dorus.
i Descend Banachdich off left then
False
summit
cut back right to the path, which
keeps on the left of the main ridge.
Three Teeth
Sgurr Thormaid
Sgurr na Banachdich
o Ascent of Thormaid - see below
Midget Ridge
0
SGURR NA BANACHDICH
to THE THREE TOPS OF MHADAIDH
The ‘mind numbing’ central section of the ridge
can feel endless and is a likely psychological failure point. The traverse of Mhadaidh has the most
difficult route finding but once this is completed
the broad grassy Bealach na Glaic Moire renews
morale.
o Ascent of Thormaid
Ascend Thormaid direct from the bealach to the
summit (do not traverse) then move off right to a
good path which cuts back to the left-hand side
of the Three Teeth.
ESCAPE - From An Dorus descend to the west.
This requires some scrambling at first but
gradually eases.
500m
1km
g The Three Tops of Mhadaidh
The first top looks horrendous direct but can
be passed by a path on the right, then ascend
directly to the main ridge.
The second top is taken direct by a short steep
wall.
The last top is taken direct and descended direct
to the Bealach na Glaic Moire ..... to grass and
sheep.
ESCAPE - Descend from Bealach na Glaic Moire
to the west by making a northward traverse
above cliffs to an easy stone shoot leading to
easy ground.
8.5 hours
6.5 hours
4 hours
3 hours
f Descent of Mhaidaidh
Descend from Mhaidaidh on the crest to a blocky
barrier which is reached by a short traverse from
the right. Follow the continuation ridge to the
next bealach.
9
to THE THREE TOPS OF MHADAIDH
A855
A856
Dunveggan
Portree
A863
Raasay
Sgurr a’Ghreadaidh
Staffin
Uig
Kyle of Lochalsh
(Skye Bridge)
Sligachan
A87
A850
See enlarged map
on next page
Cuillin Hills
Kylerhea
A851
Skye Ridge
Teangue
Ardvasar
Knoydart
Rhum
Mallaig
Eigg
Not Camping
Skye
SYHA in Glenbrittle - Phone 01478 640278 www.syha.org.uk
MC of Scotland/BMC Hut in Glen Brittle
- Phone 01882 632240 www.thebmc.co.uk/outdoor/huts/
There are some B+Bs in Glen Brittle and Carbost and lots of holiday cottages all over Skye. Phone Tourist Information for more.
nd
la
t
o
Sc
Tourist Information
Portree Tourist Information Centre (Highlands of Scotland Tourist
Board) Bayfield House, Bayfield Road, Portree, Isle of Skye, IV51
9EL Tel: 01478 612137 Fax: 01478 612141
E-mail: portree@host.co.uk
Glen
Eilg
Glen Brittle
Glasgow Edinburgh
Ire
N.
lan
d
En
gla
nd
2
d Ascend Mhaidaih on the left of the ridge.
Glen Brittle Campsite
Isle of Skye, IV47 8TA
Phone 01478 640404
This is the most popular site
for people attempting the Skye
Ridge. It is mostly tents but
camper vans are allowed however caravans will struggle to
get to the site. The site is basic
but there is a small shop and
showers. About £4 pppn.
Directions - Drive to Sligachan
on the A850. Turn left and follow A863 for 8km then turn left
onto the B8009 which leads
to Glen Brittle, the last section
being on a single track road.
Sligachan Campsite
Sligachan, Isle of Skye . Phone
01478 650303
A beautifully situated site but
not as ideal logistically for climbing the Skye Ridge unless you
have someone who will drop
you off at Glen Brittle for your
early start. Shops in the village, showers and a washing
machine on site. About £4 pppn.
Directions - Drive into
Sligachan on the A850 and follow the signs to the camping.
LOGISTICS
Mobile Coverage
Midget Ridge
u Approaching what looks like the
r Ascending An Stac - See below
Fast scree
run
possible
e Descending Mhic Choinnich, cut
off left before reaching the end of the
ridge and the Bealach Coire Lagan.
Sgurr Dearg
An Stac
w King’s Chimney
y Inn Pinn - See below
See below
Br
ra ow
m n
p
Drop down
below An
Stac here
q Descending Thearlaich
See below
Sgurr Mhic Choinnich
St
sh one
oo
t
Coire Lagan
Sgurr
Thearlaich
Sgurr Alasdair
0 The diversion to the
summit of Sgurr Alasdair
is well worthwhile.
TD Gap
Loch Coir a’ Ghrunnda
0
500m
1km
TD GAP to SGURR NA BANACHDICH
Things get a bit more complex after the TD
Gap with two technical sections - Kings Chimney
on Sgurr Mhic Choinnich and the Inn Pinn. The
descent of Thearlaich also involves some careful
route finding.
ESCAPE - Descend the famous ‘Stone Shoot’
north from the Alasdair/Thearlaich Bealach.
w King’s Chimney
From the bealach scramble up to the base of a
steep corner, belay here. Climb the corner on
good holds and undercut right before pulling over
onto the summit of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich (Diff).
It is possible to traverse Mhic Choinnich on the
left using Collie’s Ledge and returning back to the
summit via the main ridge.
r Ascent of An Stac
q Descending Thearlaich
Descend the roof-like section on the right-hand
side. Look for a notch in the ridge before the final
lumpy section. Cut off right down a ramp which
leads round to the bealach.
Climb the ridge directly on good rock (Moderate).
Use the runners line if you are short of time.
ESCAPE - Descend easily off west to Coire
Lagan.
y The Inn Pinn
6.5 hours
5 hours
3.5 hours
2.5 hours
to SGURR NA BANACHDICH
Climb the long south east ridge of the pinnacle
mainly on the right (Moderate). From the summit block either down-climb the north west ridge
(Severe) or, better, abseil off the fixed slings
underneath the summit block.
ESCAPE - Descend the west ridge of Sgurr
Dearg. Two sections require down climbing.
8
It is almost certain that you will
pack too much gear on your first
attempt. Travelling light is the best
approach.
Shoes - Walsh, Salomon, Sportiva,
Scarpa, 5.10 approach/running
shoes or similar good quality running or combination climbing/running shoes. This will avoid you
have to change your footwear
before each climbing section.
Stealth is used on rock boots so it
is an excellent choice for moving
quickly across slabs and boulders.
Stealth spot sole is available from
many resoling companies.
www.feetfirst.co.uk
Clothing - Your base clothing
should consist of light trousers or
leggings, a long sleeve thermal
shirt and a thin fleece. Carry a hat,
gloves, a light waterproof top and,
if the weather looks dodgy, take
The Bhasteir Tooth (left-hand peak) with Sgurr nan Gillean in the backover-trousers. Clothing is obviously
ground.
weather dependant, but if you have
to wear any more than this, it will
probably be too cold anyway.
Watch/Heart Monitor - For those wishing to move very quickly, or even run the ridge this device will
prove essential. It looks and works like a watch and stopwatch but has a heart rate monitor incorporated, transmitting via a band worn around the chest. Heart rate monitors are becoming relatively
common among cyclist and runners. By knowing your minimum and maximum heart rate you can
plan your effort between a lower and upper heart rate. If you go beyond your planned range (known
as the target zone) a beeper sounds as an alarm. This gives the advantage ensuring that you don't
move too fast at the start, and conversely maintain speed on descents and flats, also towards the
end where a lack of concentration often leads to a relaxation of effort.
Climbing Gear - Those who intend to rope up for the climbing sections should take a minimal rack
consisting of a couple of 120cm slings, 3 to 4 mid to large nuts and a few spare krabs. All the climbing can be done using a single 45m rope although those attempting the ridge from North to South
will need 2 ropes for the Bhasteir Tooth abseil. Most competent climbers will be okay without gear.
Bivvy Gear - Bivvy sites on the ridge are poor so it is recommended that you prepare yourself properly for making a one-day traverse. The best way to do this is by being very fit and by familiarising
yourself with the various tricky sections by making ‘reccy’ trips. If you do pack bivvy gear then the
chances are that the extra weight of sleeping bag, mat, extra food and a stove will ensure that you
need to use it. It is also extremely important that you pack enough water since there is none to be
found on the ridge itself. NOTE: the times on the topos are based on lightweight one-day attempts.
t Ascending Sgurr Dearg, drop slightly
and follow a winding, ascending path to
step onto the next brown-coloured ramp
which leads to the foot of the Inn Pinn.
Sgurr na banachdich summit, don’t
go too high, keep traversing left and
look for where the Glen Brittle ridge
will intersect at the summit.
Gear
Sgurr Thormaid
Sgurr na Banachdich
There is sporadic mobile phone
coverage along the ridge. Check
with your providers web site for the
most up to date information. Don’t
rely on getting good mobile coverage as an essential safety back up.
3
SKYE RIDGE TD Gap to Sgurr na Banachdich
8 Approach TD Gap
direct along the ridge.
SKYE RIDGE
PANORAMA
Photo: Steve Betts
na
Take rightslanting ramp to
avoid the summit
Sg
ur r
Sgurr
Thearlaich
Sgurr Mhic Coinnich
LOGISTICS
Sg
ur r
Sg Alas
ur r
d
Th air
ea
rla
ich
Sg
ur r
Sg Du
ur r bh
à M Mo
ha r
ida
ih
Bid
ea
n
Br u
ac
Am h na
Fri
Bh
Sg aste the
ur r
ir
na
nG
ille
an
nE
ag
SKYE RIDGE Gars-bheinn to the TD Gap
Sgurr Dubh Mor
Sgurr Dubh
na da Bheinn
Sgurr Alasdair
6 When approaching the summit, go
left at horizontal terrace and cut across.
Gars-bheinn
7 On return from Sgurr Dubh Mor, keep
the pinnacles of the col on the right.
5 Descend slightly into loose
gully which is followed to the crest.
Loch Coir a’
Ghrunnda
Caisteal
a’Garbhchoire
4 Look out for a digonal scree ramp. Follow this
almost to its end then drop down to another ramp.
Sgurr Nan Eag
3 Stay close to the crest,
just on the left-hand side.
2 Keep to the
left of the crest.
Sgurr a’Choire
Bhig
Cut left on a vague track
across broken ground to
avoid the summit.
1 Descend off summit on
the left avoiding notches.
Gars-bheinn
0
500m
1km
9 THE TD GAP
GARS-BHEINN to THE TD GAP
The first section is fairly straightforward. Route
finding is slightly more tricky on the excursion to
Sgurr Dubh Mor.
3.5 hours
1.5 hours
2.5 hours
1 hour
to the TD GAP
7
This gap provides some of the hardest climbing
on the whole ridge. To get into the Gap you can
either make a tricky down-climb or abseil from
fixed slings. The latter option is preferable for
most. Climb the north side by a wide crack. This
looks horrendous but the difficulties are quickly
alleviated by a hidden horizontal on the left wall
(Hard Severe).
It is possible to avoid the north side of the Gap
by descending to the west and traversing to the
Alasdair Bealach and ascending the west ridge of
Sgurr Alasdair.
ESCAPE ROUTES - Descend from the base of
the TD Gap to Coir a’ Ghrunnda.
An early escape is possible by dropping
down before Caisteal a’Garbh-choire and joining
approach route 2.
Food and Drink
The most popular method these days to ensure sufficient liquid intake is to use a 2 litre bladder carried on the back with a drinking tube extending to near your mouth enabling you to take regular sips
of liquid can be taken. For those travelling light without excessive climbing gear, use a bladder that
comes with a carrying pouch to carry your other gear. An alternative for those wishing to run the
ridge and travel very light is to arrange to have feeders at various points on the ridge. This has obvious logistical disadvantages. In the first place you have to get people to Skye and also you're limited
to taking on board large quantities of liquid at each feeding point. With a bladder, the extra weight of
carrying the liquid is far outweighed by the advantage of taking liquid regularly.
www.camelbak.com or www.cascade.com
You need to add some kind of energy supplement to the water you carry. Glucose based drinks such
as Staminade or Isostar are not appropriate as they give a quick energy 'high' followed by a sugar
crash which makes you feel awful. Carbohydrate based drinks which give slow and sustained feeding
are best. ‘High Five’ works extremely well, especially as it has some mineral replacement included in
the mix which helps replace lost minerals from sweating. Similarly, energy bars should be of a carbohydrate variety rather than sugar or glucose based ie. not Mars Bars. For nutrition Power Bars give
everything you need although they can get hard at temperatures less than 10ºC and consequently
become very difficult to chew. An alternative is High Five bars which also contain more calories. A
good schedule is to eat one bar for every hour out from the start.
www.highfive.co.uk
Other Web Sites
Rock towers
www.skye.co.uk
www.sligachan.co.uk
www.smc.org.uk
www.scotlandonline.com/outdoors
Main escape routes
Other peaks but
not Munroes
Other Guidebooks
Skye and the Hebrides (SMC).
Scrambles in Skye - J.Wilson Parker (Cicerone).
Maps - The OS 1:25000 Outdoor Leisure Map is comprehensive but confusing given the detail of the terrain.
The Map that comes with the ‘Scrambles in Skye’ guide
is excellent. Note that compasses are unreliable in the
Cuillin.
GPS Information - www.hmarston.freeserve.co.uk/
gps/gps_data/munrobng.wpt
“Bealachs” cols in the ridge
Running
tips
Scree slope
A Munroe
4
Loch Coruisk
9 TD Gap - see below
RUNNING THE RIDGE
Running the ridge has become a sport in itself. Attempting to complete the traverse in a time
like 3.5 hours is for experienced parties only. However since speed is such an important factor in successful traverses of the ridge, we have included some of the more technical running
information in this MiniGuide. We have also included some hints for runners on the topos
using the symbol above.
SKYE RIDGE Approach to Gars-bheinn
Bruach na Frithe
Sgurr nan Gillean
Am Bhasteir
Sgurr a’Mhaidaidh
History
Running the Ridge started with the legendary Erie Beard in the spring of 1967. Little is known of
Eric's exact route which was, as today, from Gars-bhienn to Sgurr nan Gillean. In May 1984 Andy
Hyslop set a new record for ridge following a defined route, which has now been adopted as the
accepted route and style.
Two years later Del Davies and Paul Stott reduced the record by 13 mins. This was particularly
impressive as Davies had only been on the ridge once before and their attempt
was more or less on sight. Another four years passed before Martin Moran reduced the
record again by a massive 16 mins. Martin's intimate knowledge of the ridge, gained after numerous
guiding days, obviously helped. In the autumn of 1993 Hyslop returned to Skye to make a couple
of recce trips, eventually making two attempts in the spring and summer of 1994 which lowered the
record to its current level.
Sgurr Mhic Coinnich
Inn Pinn
The Rules
- Start Gars-bhienn and finish Sgurr nan Gillean.
- Visit all 11 Munro summits plus the Sgurr Thearlaich and Bidien tops.
- Negotiate the four main climbing and abseil sections without ropes or help from any bystander
(solo). These are the TD Gap, Kings Chimney, Inn Pinn - up east ridge reverse west ridge, the
Bhasteir Tooth by Naismith's Route.
- Feeders and pacers can be used. It is standard procedure on time trials of this kind to touch the top
of each compulsory summit cairn. Timing should be to the nearest second.
Time from
Gars-bheinn
Sgurr nan Eag
Sgurr Dubh Mor
Sgurr Alasdair
Sgurr Thearlaich
Sgurr Mhic Coinnich
Inn Pin
Sgurr na Banachdich
Sgurr a’Mhadaidh
Bidein (Central Peak)
Bruach na Frithe
Am Bhasteir
Sgurr nan Gillean
Beard
1967
Hyslop
1984
1.38
4.09
4.04.19
Stott/Davies
1986
1.40
3.49.30
Moran
1990
0.19
0.44
1.03
Hyslop
1994
0.16
0.36
0.58
Hyslop
1994
0.17
0.37
0.56
1.00
1.06
1.28
1.46
1.35
1.52
1.30
1.47
2.20
2.16
3.12
3.13
2.12
2.26
3.10
3.33
3.32.50
3.32.15
Sgurr Thearlaich
Coire
Lagan
Sgurr Alasdair
Sgurr Dubh Mor
Coir a’
Ghrunnda
3
Coire
Beag
1
1km
Gars-bheinn
2 Via Coir a’ Ghurunnda
APPROACH TO GARS-BHEINN
There are three main approaches to the starting
point of the ridge traverse.
1 Direct to Gars-bheinn
The preferred approach. Leave the camp site at
Glen Brittle and take the right fork in the path (left
goes into Coire Lagan). Traverse below the broad
ridge of Sron na Ciche, Alt Coir a’ Ghurunnda keeping fairly low, and the base of Sgurr nan Eag, until
a slight descent leads to the foot of Gars-bheinn.
A good path up to this point. Pick a grassy line
up the south west slope of Gars-bheinn and get
stuck into the final
slog. You will probably
emerge just west of
the summit. 2.5 to 3
hrs from Glen Brittle.
3.5 hours
2.5 hours
WALK-IN TIME
5
Sgurr nan Eag
2
This approach is fast and popular but not a particularly aesthetic method of traversing the whole
ridge because you have to double-back on yourself from Gars-bheinn. Leave the camp site at Glen
Brittle and take the right fork in the path (left goes
into Coire Lagan). Traverse below the broad ridge
of Sron na Ciche to Alt Coir a’ Ghurunnda. A good
path leads around, and eventually up to, Coir a’
Ghurunnda. Head across in front of the lake and
follow the switchbacks up to a col on the ridge.
Stash your sacks here and scramble along the
ridge, over Sgurr a’Choire Bhig, to Gars-bheinn.
3 Via boat
It is possible to catch a boat from Elgol to Coruisk
which shortens the approach walk and makes for
an interesting ascent of Gars-bheinn via the north
east ridge (Moderate) or more easily via Coire Beag.
The boat runs daily subject to weather. You probably need to book a few days in advance. Call
0800 731 3089 between 7.30am and 10am or
Tourist Information in Broadford 01471 822361.
6
Sgurr na Banachdich

Skye Ridge MiniGUIDE - blue-roan

Transcription

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