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Pro l j e će, l j e to 2 0 1 2 . B ro j 2 9 / S pr i ng, S ummer 2012 N o 29
Va š b es p la t a n p r i m j e r a k
You r compl imenta r y copy
Sadržaj / Contents
13
32
110
126
Montenegro Airlines news ...........................................................8 Montenegro Airlines news .......................................................8
Belgrade - a strategic point on the destinations map
Beograd - strateška tačka na mapi destinacija
Montenegro Airlines na sajmu u Berlinu ..........................10 Montenegro Airlines at the Berlin Fair ............................11
Greater number of German tourists
Veći broj njemačkih turista
Veliko srce Rusije ..............................................................................13 Great Heart of Russia .................................................................22
Under the stars of Kremlin
Pod zvijezdama Kremlja
Naši gradovi ........................................................................................32 Our cities ...........................................................................................40
Story of Cetinje
Cetinjska priča
In a roulette of history ..............................................................56
Na ruletu istorije ...............................................................................52
Celebrate education, hold on to imagination!
Slavi nauk, drž’ se mašte!
Who knew?......................................................................................66
Ko bi to rekao? ...................................................................................62
Nevidio Canyon
Kanjon Nevidio
Our Treasures - Botanical Garden in Kolašin ...............78
Naša bogatstva – Botanička bašta u Kolašinu ...............72 Defence of Her Majesty Nature
Odbrana njenog veličanstva prirode
Gallery - Miodrag Šćepanović..............................................92
Galerija – Miodrag Šćepanović ...............................................86 Parisian, but Ours
Pariški, a naš
Modern Montenegrin Poetry ............................................ 104
Savremena crnogorska poezija............................................ 100 Pavle Goranović
Pavle Goranović
Attention please, Camera Rolling - As Pik! ................ 114
Pazi, snima se - As pik!................................................................ 110 Landscapes and good old schnapps
Pejzaži i stara, dobra rakija
Attention please, Camera Rolling - Boys from Marx
Pazi, snima se - Dječaci iz ulice Marksa i Engelsa! ..... 118 and Engels street! ..................................................................... 122
Growing Up, Love & Other Stories
Odrastanje, ljubav & druge priče
Crna Gora na Eurosongu 2012 ............................................. 126 Montenegro on Eurosong Contest 2012................... 132
With an IQ test towards Europe!
IQ testom na Evropu!
Filip Ćabak, cantautor ............................................................ 140
Filip Ćabak, kantautor ................................................................ 138
Boyish Dreams of a Big Bicycle
Dječački snovi o velikom biciklu
Let Me Tell You a Story ........................................................... 152
Pričam ti priču ................................................................................. 148
Springtime Flowers
Proljećni cvjetovi
Montenegrin Cuisine ............................................................. 158
Crnogorska kužina ....................................................................... 156 Popara, Beggarly Breakfast
Popara, prosjački doručak
Discover Unknown Beauty ................................................. 166
Otkrijte nepoznatu ljepotu ..................................................... 160 Hidden places in Montenegro
Skrovita mjesta u Crnoj Gori
Prof. Paul Dishman, an American with Pastrovics’
Prof. Pol Dišman Amerikanac paštrovićke krvi............ 170 blood ................................................................................................ 174
Sun colored oranges
Narandže boje sunca
6
72
86
160
118
170
Impressum
Inflight Magazine No 29
Proljeće - ljeto 2012. / Spring - Summer 2012
UREĐUJE I IZDAJE / EDITING AND PUBLISHING
Montenegro Airlines, Marketing & Corporative Communications Department,
Mr Aleksandra Gardašević-Slavuljica
DIZAJN, PRIPREMA ZA ŠTAMPU I OGLAŠAVANJE /
DESIGN, PREPRESS AND ADS
GLAVNI I ODGOVORNI UREDNIK / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Nada Bukilić
ART DIREKTOR / ART DIRECTOR
Vuk Eraković
DIZAJN / DESIGN
Vuk Eraković
TEKSTOVI / TEXTS
Nada Bukilić, Marijana Bojanić, Tatjana Jovović, Maja Dragićević - Roganović,
Veseljko Koprivica, Aida Rastoder, Jelena Suvara
FOTOGRAFIJA / PHOTO
Duško Miljanić, Dalibor Ševaljević, Relja Eraković,
Slaven Vilus, Miodrag Marković
NASLOVNA STRANA / COVER PAGE
Milica Radulović
TEHNIČKI UREDNIK / TECHNICAL EDITOR
Nikola Kumburović
OGLAŠAVANJE / ADVERTISING
Jelena Dragutinović
Tel: +382 (0)20 664 282, 664 283
E-mail: mapa@t-com.me
PREVODIOC / TRANSLATOR
Vanja Janjušević
LEKTOR / PROOFREADER
Dr Sanja Šubarić
ŠTAMPA / PRINTED BY DPC & Grafotisak Grude
Tiraž / Number of copies: 5000
Montenegro Airlines
Beogradska 10, 81000 Podgorica,
Montenegro, tel: +382 (0)20 405 501
fax: +382 (0)20 405 528
E-mail: marketing@mgx.me
www.montenegroairlines.com
Montenegro Advertising and Production Agency
Stadion Budućnosti, Ul. 19. decembra 13, 81000 Podgorica, Montenegro
tel: +382 (0)20 664 282, 664 283
mapa@t-com.me
www.mapa.co.me
ISSN 1800-5462
Poštovani putnici,
Dobrodošli na još jedan let Montenegro Airlinesa.
Prvi kvartal poslovne godine za Montenegro Airlines, kao i za ostale
aktere turističke privrede, protiče u znaku ambicioznih planova i
ozbiljnih priprema za ljetnju sezonu, od koje svi u Crnoj Gori
mnogo očekujemo. Za Montenegro Airlines, sezona je uveliko
počela. Već početkom marta, našim avionima stigle su prve
organizovane grupe turista.
Pored pozitivnih pokazatelja koji nas ohrabruju, i dalje su veoma
izraženi izazovi sa kojima se suočava profitabilnost avio-prevoznika
u cijelom svijetu. Konstantno pokušavamo prevazići problem koje
donosi izražena ekonomska kriza u Evropi, enormno visoke cijene
avio-goriva, visoke cijene aerodromskih usluga i spori oporavak
ekonomije. Kao i svi avio-prevozioci u svijetu, imamo poteškoća sa
poslovanjem u ovim turbulentnim vremenima. Ipak, godinu koja je
za nama završili smo mnogo bolje nego brojne avio-kompanije u
okruženju.
8
President’s message
Iako su brojne poteškoće koje nam otežavaju poslovanje, ostajemo
optimisti i očekujemo pozitivna dešavanja u godini pred nama.
Svjesni smo da unutrašnje restrukturiranje i povećanje
organizacione efikasnosti, nije dovoljno da kompaniju pokrene
naprijed. Ono što je od ključne važnosti je mogućnost brzog
prilagođavanja, brzog reagovanja na promjene i prisustvo na
rastućim tržištima. Pored uvijek interesantnog srbijanskog tržišta,
Montenegro Airlines je tržista Rusije i Francuske prepoznao kao
svoju šansu. Do sada su se ova tržišta pokazala kao faktor koji
stabilizuje naše poslovanje. Iz tog razloga ove ljetnje sezone ka
Moskvi i Parizu letimo i po četiri puta dnevno. Naravno, i ostala
tržišta jednako su značajna, pa smo prema svim destinacijama
značajno povećali broj rotacija.
Dugoročno posmatrano, naši ciljevi su da na najbrži i najkomforniji
način povežemo Crnu Goru sa Evropom, budemo lider u regionu i
izgradimo poziciju prepoznatljivog brenda. Imajući ove kriterijume
u vidu, definisali smo i inicirali brojne projekte. Naša strategija u
narednom periodu se odnosi na dalje unapređenje kapaciteta i
inovativnu ponudu za naše putnike.
Želim da se zahvalim na povjerenju i Vašoj lojalnosti svih ovih
godina.
Spremni smo za udoban nastavak putovanja i pozivamo Vas da
nam se pridružite.
Uživajte u letu,
Srdačno,
dr Zoran Đurišić, dipl. inž.,
predsjednik Odbora direktora
Montenegro
Airlinesa
en
Dear Passengers,
Welcome on board Montenegro Airlines flight.
The first quarter of the business year for Montenegro Airlines, as well as for the
other participants in tourist industry, was marked by the ambitious plans and
serious preparations for the summer season, from which all of us in Montenegro expect a lot. For Montenegro Airlines, the season has already started.
Starting from the beginning of March the first organized groups of tourists
have arrived in Montenegro.
Besides the positive indicators by which we are encouraged, the airlines’
profitability throughout the world still faces the major challenges. We are
constantly trying to overcome the problems brought by deep economic crisis
in Europe, enormously high fuel price, high cost of airport services and slow
recovery of the economy. As well as the other airlines throughout the world,
we have difficulties in this turbulent time.
However, the year behind us was far successful for us in comparison to the
other companies from the region.
Although there are numerous obstacles, which affect our business activity,
we remain optimistic and expect positive outcome in the year ahead us. We
are aware that internal restructuring and increase of organizational efficiency
is not enough to move our company forward. The possibility to adjust, react
promptly to changes and be present on the growing markets is of essence.
Besides the market of Serbia, which is constantly of high importance for us,
Montenegro Airlines has recognized its opportunity in the markets of Russia
and France. These markets have proven to be the stabilizing factor for our
operations so far. That is the reason why, this summer season we operate four
flights per day to Moscow and Paris. However, the other markets are equally
important for us, so we had increased significantly the number of rotations.
In the long term, our aim is to offer the fastest and most comfortable connection between Montenegro and Europe, remain the leader in the region and
build the position of recognizable brand. Bearing in mind all these criteria, we
defined and launched numerous projects. Our strategy in the period to come
refers to improvement of capacities and offer for our passengers.
I would like to thank you for your trust and loyalty throughout the years.
We are ready to continue our flight in the most comfortable way and we
invite you to join us.
I wish you a pleasant flight.
Zoran Djurisic, PhD in Engineering
CEO and Chairman of the Board of Directors
Montenegro Airlines
9
MONTENEGRO AIRLINES NEWS
MONTENEGRO AIRLINES NEWS
na mapi destinacija
B
Belgrade - a strategic point
on the destinations map
A
Montenegro Airlines i hoteli sa crnogorskog primorja prenijeli su u prohladni
Beograd miris mora, mimozu i prijatnu atmosferu Mediterana, i ovom su tržištu ponudili izuzetno povoljne uslove prevoza i
aranžmana sa crnogorskim hotelima.
Montenegro Airlines and the hotels from
the Montenegrin coast have conveyed the
scent of the sea, mimosa and a pleasant
atmosphere into the cool Belgrade, and
offered this market extremely favorable
conditions concerning transportation and
arrangements with Montenegrin hotels.
eograd - U hotelu Kontinental u
prisustvu brojnih turističkih agenata, medija i poslovnih partnera
održan je radni ručak na kome su predstavnici Montenegro Airlinesa prezentovali
izuzetno atraktivnu ponudu za svoje letove
u sezoni proljeće/ljeto 2012.
Prisutnima su se obratili, zamjenik izvršnog
direktora Montenegro Airlinesa - Novica
Vulić, komercijalni direktor - Vlastimir Ristić,
te direktor predstavništva Montenegro
Airlinesa u Beogradu - Žarko Đurović.
Montenegro Airlines saobraća iz Beograda
još od svog osnivanja, prije 17 godina, a
tržište Srbije i Beograda predstavlja jednu
od strateških tački na mapi destinacija na
kojima saobraća kompanija.
Attendees were addressed by the Deputy
Executive Director of Montenegro Airlines
- Novica Vulić, Commercial Director Vlastimir Ristić, and Director of Montenegro
Airlines office in Belgrade - Žarko Đurović.
Svakodnevno prisustvo, koje se ogleda
brojnim dnevnim letovima ka Beogradu
i iz Beograda, predstavništvo koje postoji
u Beogradu već dugi niz godina, dovoljan
su dokaz koliko ovo tržište i ova destinacija
Promotivne tarife za Crnu Goru
Zamjenik izvršnog direktora Novica Vulić prezentovao je ponudu koju je za tržište
Srbije pripremila kompanija Montenegro Airlines. U pitanju je spektar povoljnih tarifa! „Sa ponosom ističemo povratnu kartu na relaciji iz Beograda do Tivta ili Podgorice
po cijeni već od 103 Eura sa svim pripadajućim taksama.”, izjavio je Novica Vulić.
Do evropskih destinacija, preko Podgorice ili Tivta, najbržom i najpovoljnijom vezom
možete otputovati po SUPER PROMO CIJENI, već od 169 Eura. Ova cijena se odnosi
na povratnu kartu, sa svim pripadajućim taksama.
U saradnji sa Udruženjem Hotelijera Crne Gore, Montenegro Airlines pripremio je
posebnu ponudu za aranžmane u sferi kongresnog turizma, organizacije edukativnih seminara kao i vikend aranžmana u vodećim crnogorskim hotelima.
Na kraju, Montenegro Airlines vas poziva da nas posjetite i na www.montenegroairlines.com gdje uvijek za Vas čuvamo posebne povoljnosti i najjeftinije avio karte,
zaključio je zamjenik izvršnog direktora Novica Vulić.
10
working lunch was held at the
Continental Hotel, in the presence
of many travel agents, media and
business partners, at which the representatives of Montenegro Airlines presented an
extremely attractive offer for their flights in
the 2012 spring / summer season.
znače kompaniji.
Sve ovo rezultiralo je da kompanija po
najpovoljnijim uslovima do sada, nastavi
obavljanje saobraćaja i po najatraktivnijim cijenama omogući putnicima sa ovog
područja najbržu konekciju i ka evropskim
destinacijama.
Avioni Montenegro Airlinesa svakodnevno lete iz Beograda preko Podgorice
do najatraktivnijih evropskih destinacija
– Londona, Frankurta, Rima, Pariza, Ciriha,
Rima, Beča, Moskve.
„Montenegro Airlines se u svom punom
kapacitetu pozicionirao na tržištu Srbije. Sa
najsavremenijom flotom, sa najvećim sertifikatom za bezbjednost IOSA, sa kadrom koji
može da iznese ovaj projekt i u budućnosti,
kao i sa najpovoljnijim cijenama, smatramo
da ćemo obezbijediti konkurentnost koja
će nam omogućiti dugoročno prisustvo
na ovom području”, saopštio je zamjenik
izvršnog direktora, Novica Vulić.
Montenegro Airlines has been operating
from Belgrade since its establishment 17
years ago, and the market in Serbia and
Belgrade represents one of the strategic
points on the map of destinations in which
the company operates.
Day to day presence, reflected in numerous daily flights towards Belgrade and from
Belgrade, the branch office that exists in
Promotional tariffs for Montenegro
Deputy Executive Director Novica Vulić presented an offer that the company
Montenegro Airlines prepared for the Serbian market. It is a spectrum of affordable
tariffs! ”We proudly emphanize the return ticket on the route from Belgrade to Tivat
or Podgorica, at the price of EUR 103 with all associated taxes”, stated Novica Vulić.
To European destinations, via Podgorica or Tivat, with the fastest and most affordable connection, you can travel at SUPER PROMOTIONAL PRICE of EUR 169. This price
applies to the return trip ticket with all associated taxes.
In cooperation with the Association of Hoteliers of Montenegro, Montenegro
Airlines has prepared a special offer for arrangements in the field of congress tourism, organization of seminars, as well as weekend arrangements at the leading
Montenegrin hotels.
Finally, Montenegro Airlines invites you to visit us at www.montenegroairlines.com,
where we hold the special benefits and the cheapest airline tickets for you, concluded Novica Vulić, the Deputy Executive Director.
Belgrade for many years, are sufficient evidence how much this market and this destination means to the company.
As a result of the abovementioned, the
company is continuing to conduct the
transportation, under most favorable conditions thus far and provide the travelers
from this region, at the most attractive
tariffs, the fastest connection towards the
European destinations as well.
Montenegro Airlines airplanes have daily
flights from Belgrade via Podgorica toward
the most attractive European destinations
- London, Frankfurt, Rome, Paris, Zurich,
Rome, Vienna, Moscow.
“Montenegro Airlines positioned itself at
the Serbian market in its full capacity. With
the most modern fleet, with the highest
IOSA Safety Certification, with the staff
who can carry this project in the future,
as well as with the best prices, we believe
that we will provide the competition that
will enable us a long-term presence in this
region, “ Deputy Executive Director Novica
Vulić announced.
11
MONTENEGRO AIRLINES NA SAJMU U BERLINU
MONTENEGRO AIRLINES AT THE BERLIN FAIR
tourists I
!"#$"
P
očetkom
marta
Montenegro
Airlines predstavio je svoju specijalnu ponudu za tržište Njemačke u
okviru ITB 2012. – berlinske berze turizma,
koja važi za jednu od vodećih u svijetu turizma po posjećenosti i broju učesnika.
Ovo je tržište sa velikim potencijalom, u
kome Crna Gora i Montenegro Airlines prepoznaju svoju šansu. Tokom prošle godine,
broj turista iz Njemačke, koji su posjetili
Crnu Goru, iznosio je 35.000, dok se za narednu očekuje povećanje za 20%.
Na berzi u Berlinu, Crna Gora je bila u centru interesovanja i zbog činjenice da će ove
jeseni biti domaćin kongresa Njemačkog
12
turističkog udruženja – DRV. Montenegro
Airlines i Nacionalna turistička organizacija Crne Gore biće partneri u organizaciji
ovog kongresa. Svi raspoloživi kapaciteti
Montenegro Airlinesa biće stavljeni na
raspolaganje, kako bi se podržali napori u
pridobijanju njemačkih turista.
Njemačko turističko udruženje, kako je istakao njegov predsjednik Juergen Buechy,
sa entuzijazmom očekuje ovogodišnji kongres, sredinom novembra u Crnoj Gori.
„Crna Gora je mala zemlja jedinstvene sinergije, obale i njenog zaleđa sa planinskim
dijelom. Nadamo se da će tokom kongresa
njemačka privreda biti u prilici da upozna
potencijale ove zemlje i da će kongres doprinijeti povećanju broja njemačkih turista
narednih godina“, rekao je Buechy.
Prezentaciji crnogorske ponude prisustvovali su predstavnici uticajnijih medijskih
kuća, online i specijalizovani mediji, kao
što su Brigitte, FVW, Freizeit Woche, Neues
Detschland, Augsburger Allgemein, Alpin i
drugi.
Montenegro Airlines je specijalno za predstavljanje na ITB-u pripremio promotivne
tarife na letovima iz zemalja njemačkog
govornog područja ka Crnoj Gori tokom
zimske sezone 2012/13. godine, kao i za
ljeto 2013.
n early March, Montenegro Airlines presented its special offer for the German
market within the ITB 2012 - the Berlin
Tourism Bourse, which is one of the leaders
in the world of tourism by number of visitors
and participants.
This is a market with great potential, in which
Montenegro and Montenegro Airlines recognize their chance. Over the past year, the
number of tourists from Germany, who visited Montenegro, amounted to 35,000, while a
20% increase is expected for the coming year.
Montenegro was also the center of interest
at the Berlin Bourse due to the fact that, this
fall, it will be the host of the German Travel
Association (DRV) Congress. Montenegro
Airlines and the National Tourism Organization
of Montenegro will be partners in the organization of this Congress.
All available capacities of Montenegro
Airlines will be placed at the disposal to support the efforts in attracting German tourists.
German Travel Association, as their President
Jürgen Büchy pointed out, is enthusiastically expecting this year’s Congress, in mid
November in Montenegro.
“Montenegro is a small country of unique
synergy, the coast and its hinterland with the
mountainous area. We hope that during the
Congress, the German economy will be able
to get to know the potentials of this country
and that the Congress will contribute to increasing the number of German tourists next
year, “ said Büchy.
The presentation of the Montenegrin offer
was attended by the representatives of the
influential media outlets, online and specialized media, such as Brigitte, FVW, Freizeit
Woche, Neues Deutschland, Augsburger
Allgemein, Alpin and others.
Montenegro Airlines has, specifically for the
presentation at the ITB, prepared promotional tariffs on flights from German-speaking
countries to Montenegro during the winter
season 2012/13, as well as for summer 2013.
13
VELIKO SRCE RUSIJE
Pod
zvijezdama
Kremlja
Tekst: Tatjana Jovović
Carska Moskva se gradila na istočnjački
način, kapriciozno, razbacano, šareno,
neplanski, bila je spahijska i trgovačka
prestonica. Izrazita stambena kriza
dvadesetih godina prošlog vijeka, kakvu nije
doživjela nijedna od evropskih prestonica,
prinudila je na žurnu gradnju novih zgrada.
Sabor Vasilija Blaženog
14
vaka metropola liči jedna na drugu,
ali Moskva je drugačija od svih i posebna na svoj način. Ako ste sačuvali
u sjećanju socijalistički lik ove ruske
ljepotice, prije ponovnog susreta oslobodite se svih predrasuda: poslije perestrojke u
Moskvi više ništa nije isto. Junakinja filma
Nikite Mihalkova „Sibirski berberin” kasno
shvata da u Rusiji ništa ne može pomalo i
da se sa Rusima nije šaliti. Dovoljno je prisjetiti se graditeljske ambicije Petra Velikog,
Tolstojevog „Rata i mira”, neponovljive priče
između Majstora i Margarite, remek-djela
Tarkovskog, filmova „Rubljov” i „Nostalgija”,
KGB-a, bankovnih računa ruskih bogataša,
ljubavi između Jesenjina i Isidore Dankan i
ruskog potencijala za alkoholnu konzumaciju: malo graditi, malo piti, malo pjevati,
malo pisati, malo voljeti – nekako nije u osnovi ruskog karaktera. Dakle, ruska megalomanija je prvi šok koji treba prebroditi prilikom susreta sa Moskvom. A onda se valja
prepustiti ogromnoj energiji ovog bučnog,
pomalo haotičnog i neizmjerno živopisnog
grada.
S
Moskva je grad ženskog karaktera, hirovita, koketna i kao i svaka žena, opsjednuta
modom. I sasvim ženski, više sluša srce i
emocije nego razum, mada stari ruski film,
dobitnik Oskara iz 1980. kaže da „Moskva
15
Novodjevičji manastir
Novodjevičji manastir
suzama ne vjeruje”. Carska Moskva se gradila na istočnjački način, kapriciozno, razbacano, šareno, neplanski, bila je spahijska
i trgovačka prestonica. Izrazita stambena
kriza dvadesetih godina prošlog vijeka, kakvu nije doživjela nijedna od evropskih prestonica, prinudila je na žurnu gradnju novih
zgrada. Ogoljena, suva socijalistička zdanja
kockastog oblika na kojima je utisnut žig,
ponekad šarmantnog, ali često i pretencioznog neukusa, svjedoče o tom dobu.
Originalnost Moskve počiva u strasnoj
kombinaciji stilova i boja, širokih trgova i
uskih prolaza. Na svakom uglu nalaze se crkve sa pozlaćenim ili šarenim kupolama, čiji
kolorit prije podsjeća na raskošnu azijatsku
bajku negoli na pravoslavnu jednostavnost.
16
Komplikovana i zagonetna duša Moskve
može se naslutiti tek poslije obilaska nekoliko punktova. Savremeni ruski pisac
Vladimir Sorokin smatra da na tijelu ruske
prestonice ima sedam glavnih erogenih
zona, koje posjetilac suptilno treba da upozna da bi mu se grad prepustio. Prva u nizu
je staljinska gromada MGU (Moskovski državni univerzitet – Lomonosov) i vidikovac
na Vrapčjim gorama sa koga se moskovska
panorama otkriva u svom najboljem izdanju. Staljin je želio da se običan ruski čovjek
osjeti kao Bog kada izađe na trg ili se spusti
u metro. Takođe je htio da pokaže snagu
sovjetskog stroja, pa je zahvaljujući tome
moskovski metro pravi podzemni muzej,
a svaka stanica je izložba za sebe. Osim sa
visine ili pod zemljom, Moskva se može
doživjeti i sa istoimene rijeke, na nekom
od mnogobrojnih brodića koji neprestano
isplovljavaju ili pristaju.
Noćni prizor Kremlja u januaru, okupanog krupnim pahuljama i svjetlošću, nešto
je što se ne zaboravlja, ali Moskvu je, ipak,
bolje obilaziti ljeti. To je najbolje doba za
duge šetnje bučnom Tverskom ulicom, za
lagano prepuštanje boemskoj atmosferi
stare moskovske ulice Arbata i otmenoj aristokratskoj smirenosti Prečistenke, u kojoj
se sačuvao duh stare Moskve.
Na lijevoj obali rijeke Moskve nalazi se najstariji dio grada, jedan od najvažnijih istorijsko-umjetničkih kompleksa u zemlji i rezidencija najviših organa državne vlasti.
Sa dolaskom sovjetske vlasti, Kremlj je postao jedan od simbola novog poretka. Od
Monumentalni Novodjevičji ženski
manastir takođe je reprezentativni
primjer ruske arhitekture iz 16. i 17. vijeka i nalazi se pod zaštitom Uneska.
Naročito je poznat po tome što su se
u njemu zamonašivale žene iz carske
porodice. Među zidinama manastira
živjela je udovica starijeg sina Ivana
Groznog, carevića Ivana. Poslije smrti
cara Fjodora Ivanoviča ovamo se povukla njegova udovica Irina Godunova sa svojim bratom Borisom Godu-
novom, budućim ruskim carem. U
Novodjevičjem manastiru odživjela je
svoje posljednje dane i sestra Petra I,
princeza Sofija, koju su nasilno zamonašili. Monahinje manastira obično
su bile iz najviših plemićkih slojeva. Za
vrijeme Otadžbinskog rata 1812. godine u Novodjevičjem manastiru nalazila se francuska vojska, koja je prilikom
povlačenja namjeravala da raznese
manastir. Samo zahvaljujući brzoj
reakciji monahinja koje su stigle na
vrijeme i ugasile fitilje, manastir je spasen. Zanimljivo je da su crkvene vlasti
jedno vrijeme koristile manastir kao
popravnu ustanovu za Moskovljanke
koje je sud osudio zbog nevjerstva. Još
od 16. vijeka na obližnjem Novodjevičjem groblju sahranjivali su se ugledni
ljudi iz svjetovnog i crkvenog života.
U lijepim alejama ovog groblja svoj
vječni mir našli su i Gogolj, Čehov, Bulgakov, Majakovski, Skrjabin, Rihter,
Hruščov...
17
Hram Hrista spasitelja
1935. do 1937. pet dvoglavih orlova koji
su stajali na vrhu glavnih kremljovskih kula
zamijenjeni su rubinskim zvijezdama prečnika 3 do 3,75 m, koje noću dominiraju nebom iznad Kremlja.
Jedan od najljepših spomenika drevne
ruske arhitekture jeste Sabor Vasilija Blaženog, koji od 16. vijeka ushićuje putnike, a za
Ruse predstavlja simbol otadžbinske istori18
je i ruskog nacionalnog karaktera. Prvobitni
naziv hrama bio je Sabor Bogorodičinog
pokrova, a kada je u njemu sahranjen jurodivi Vasilije Blaženi, hram je dobio i novo
ime. Po jednoj od legendi, Ivan Grozni je pitao neimara koji je gradio hram da li može
da napravi ljepši. Neimar je odgovorio
potvrdno, a Ivan Grozni mu je iskopao oči
kako bi ljepota hrama ostala nenadmašena.
Moskva je puna zelenih oaza i vještačkih jezera,
tako da je relativno lako naići na zonu u kojoj
se možete odmoriti od gradske vreve. Za cjelodnevni izlet idealni su predivni prirodni ambijenti u kojima se nalaze muzeji i arhitektonski
kompleksi kao što su Kolomenskoe, Arhangelskoe, Ostankino, Caricino ili pak predivni ljetnjikovac grofa Šeremetjeva – Kuskovo.
Čuveni moskovski Baljšoj teatar ljeti je obično na turnejama, ali u nekom od mnogih
Panorama Moskve, Univerzitet Lomonosov
Crveni trg, noću
moskovskih pozorišta mogu se pogledati različita režiserska preispitivanja stare i
nove, tradicionalne i avangardne dramaturgije. Moskovski cirkus Nikulina na Cvjetnom
bulevaru od 1880. godine zadivljuje publiku
nevjerovatnim tačkama svojih umjetnika:
izvrsnih žonglera, nevjerovatno duhovitih
klovnova, smjelih ekvilibrista, taktičnih krotiteljki lavova. Ogromna nacionalna zbirka
umjetnina može se vidjeti u čuvenoj Tretjakovskoj galeriji, a u Muzeju likovnih umjetnosti, koji nosi ime Puškina, osim izvrsne
stalne kolekcije, često gostuju postavke iz
cijelog svijeta.
Monumentalna arhitektura Moskve zaista
traži mnogo energije: treba savladati širinu
bulevara i prospekata, dužinu hodnika moskovskog metroa, visinu zgrada, izazove svih
kulturnih i zabavnih događaja koji mame 24
časa. Uložena energija stostruko se vraća.
Civilizacija nije ukrotila strasti kultura koje se
prepliću u Moskvi. Upravo u tome je tajna
njene zavodljivosti. Žena ruskog diplomate
Mihaila Bondarenka, cejlonska princeza Farida, svojevremeno je izjavila da je Moskva
najinteresantniji grad na svijetu. Nije teško
povjerovati da ima još dosta onih koji dijele
njeno mišljenje.
%&'()
Rubljovka je nezvanični naziv teritorije koja
se pruža duž Rubljovo-Uspenskog auto-
22
puta. Prve državne vile visokih činovnika
pojavile su se ovdje 1930. godine, kao i
pansioni predstavnika sovjetske kulturne
elite. U posleratno vrijeme tu su živjele zapadne diplomate, između ostalog, i zbog
njegovog simboličnog zapadnog položaja.
U skorije vrijeme ove ekološki privlačne, šumovite obale rijeke Moskve, pokupovale su
zvijezde šou-biznisa, političari, industrijski
magnati, itd. Prepoznavši svoju ciljnu grupu
koncentrisanu na jednom mjestu, najveći
svjetski brendovi otvorili su samo za njih
svoje ekspoziture na Rubljovci. Prije ulaza
u šume Rubljovke, nailazi se na ne naročito
maštovite, gotovo identične hale, koje su
poređane jedna pored druge i na kojima se
čitaju natpisi: Guči, Bentli, Lamborgini, Ferari, Harli-Dejvidson... Jedna od poslednjih
ludosti sa Rubljovke bio je kurs za vožnju
helikoptera, specijalno organizovan za ovdašnje domaćice. Kako su gužve i zastoji na
ovom putu veoma česti, neko se dosjetio
da na ovaj način olakša život ženama milionera. Pošto se novcem ipak ne može kupiti
ukus, na Rubljovci se može svašta vidjeti.
Kuće počinju da „upozoravaju” kada im se
približite na nekoliko metara. Pojedini bogataši su tik uz kuće izgradili crkve za ličnu
upotrebu, nadmećući se sa komšijama u
demonstraciji novca i moći. Ipak, upravo na
Rubljovci, u prijatnom mirisu šumske vlage
i mahovine, dok u stilizovanoj brvnari mlada pijanistička nada izvodi koncert samo za
stanovnike sela Nikolina gora, vidi se koliko
život može biti lijep. I da novac ponekad
pomaže takvim spoznajama.
Montenegro Airlines leti za Moskvu i
do četiri puta dnevno.
GREAT HEART OF RUSSIA
Kremlj
Under the stars
of Kremlin
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24
Text: Tatjana Jovović
ll metropolises tend to look
alike but Moscow is different,
exceptional in its own way. If
you imagine this Russian beauty
according to its socialist past, prior to the
new assembly, then free yourself from such
prejudice. After the perestroika nothing
is the same in Moscow. The main heroine
in Nikita Mikhalkov’s movie “The Barber
of Siberia” realizes too late that nothing
in Russia can be done just “a little” Bear in
mind the building ambitions of Peter the
Great, Tolstoy’s “War and Peace”, the inimitable story of Master and Margarita, the
A
masterpieces of Tarkovsky, the films “Burly”
and “Nostalghia”, the KGB, bank accounts of
Russian millionaires, the love between Yesenin and Isadora Duncan, and the Russian
penchant for alcohol consumption. Build a
little, drink a little, sing a little, write a little,
love a little – somehow “a little” is not in the
heart of the Russian character. Thus, the
Russian megalomania, its obsession with
power, is the initial force to be dealt with
when encountering Moscow. For that reason, one should just surrender to the great
energy of this boisterous and chaotic, but
extremely picturesque city.
25
Moscow is a city of female character - moody, flirty and just as any woman, obsessed with style. A purely feminine spirit, it
follows the heart more than reason. (Although according to an old Russian movie, an
Oscar winner in 1980, “Moscow does not
believe in tears”). The Russia of the tsars was
built, as such, in an oriental manner - capricious, dispersed, diverse, and unplanned,
reflecting an important trade center. In
contrast, bare and dry socialist structures
with square forms, often charming but
usually overstated, mark another period:
a housing crisis during the 1920’s (never
before experienced by a European capital)
incited hasty building practices.
Kremlin by night
Nonetheless Moscow’s novelty lies in its
loving combinations of style and color, its
spacious squares and narrow passages.
On each corner stand churches so striking,
with gilded and vibrant cupolas, that they
resemble a rich Asian fairytale rather than
an Orthodox simplicity.
The multifaceted, mystical soul of Moscow
can be felt only after visiting several key
areas of the city. The modern Russian writer,
Vladimir Sorokin, believes that the Russian
capital has seven erogenous zones; the visitor must experience each only slightly to
be taken in by their charm.T
he first area is of Stalinist relics – MGU
(Moscow State University – Lomonosov)
and the lookout from Sparrow Hills, offering the best panoramic view of Moscow.
The next is the Moscow Metro train station.
Stalin wanted the ordinary Russian to feel
like a god when stepping into the square
or descending into the metro; he wanted
to demonstrate the power of the Russian
machine. As a result, the Moscow Metro is
a true underground museum; each station
is a separate exhibition. Further from the
streets and underground Moscow can be
viewed from the river bearing its name, on
one of the numerous boats that continuously cruise about.
Kremlin is a must see while touring Moscow. At night in January, bathed in snowfla-
kes and light, Kremlin is unforgettable. Still,
it is best to visit Moscow in the summer.
This is the best time of year for long walks
down the lively Tverska Street, or to give in
to the bohemian atmosphere of Arbata,
an historic Moscow street. During summer
experience the gracious serenity of Precistenka, where the spirit of the old city lives
on. On the left bank of the Moscow River
(the oldest part of the city) Kremlin is one
of the most important historic and artistic
complexes in the country and the residen-
ce of main state officials. With the onset of
Soviet rule, Kremlin became the symbol of
this new order. In the period 1935-1937,
five double-headed eagles that once stood
on top of the main Kremlin towers were replaced with ruby-red stars. With diameters
ranging from 3 to 3.75 meters, the red stars
dominate the sky above Kremlin at night.
The most beautiful monument of early Russian architecture, the Cathedral of St. Basil
the Blessed, has been astounding visitors
since the 16th Century. For Russians, it re-
presents a symbol of historic heritage and
national character. The original name was
The Cathedral of the Intercession of the
Virgin on the Moat. The temple was renamed when jurodivi Basil the Blessed was
buried there. According to legend, Ivan
the Terrible asked the cathedral builder to
construct an even more beautiful temple.
When the builder agreed, Ivan the Terrible
took his eyes out; thus, the legend reminds
how the beauty of this cathedral should
never be surpassed.
Golden domes
Izmaylovo, wooden window
Subway interior
The Smolny Cathedral
6&&7&
The immense Novodevichy Maiden’s Convent, another attraction, is a symbol of Russian architecture from the 16th and 17th
Centuries. It is protected under UNESCO.
Because women from the royal family took
shelter there, this convent is most legendary. Behind these walls lived the widow
of the older son of Ivan the Terrible, Prince
Ivan. After the death of Feodor Ivanovich,
the widowed Irina Godunova stayed there as well, with her brother Boris Godunov, the future Russian Tsar. Here was also
where Princess Sofia, the sister of Peter the
28
Great, was forced to take cover in her last
days. During the Homeland War in 1812,
the French army stayed in the Convent and
planned to blow it up upon retreating. Fortunately, due to the quick reaction of nuns,
the convent was saved. It is interesting to
note that church authorities have occasionally used the convent as a penitentiary for
women condemned for infidelity. Nearby,
Novodevichy Cemetery, since the 16th
century, was used to bury notables from
both secular and religious life. Here on these peaceful grounds is where such greats
as Gogol, Czechow, Bulgakov, Mayakovski,
Skrabin, Richter, and Hruscov are buried.
Moscow is abounding with greenery
and lakes. It is relatively easy to escape the
city hustle and bustle to find rest and relaxation. For a daylong excursion the ideal
places to visit are the beautiful parks with
museums and historic buildings, such as
Kolomenskoe, Arhangelskoe, Ostankino,
Caricino, or the elegant Summer Palace of
Count Sheremetev–Kuskovo.
Moscow’s famous Bolshoi Theatre is usually on tour in summertime; however, it is
possible to see various works of old and
new, traditional and avant-garde dramaturgy, in one of the many city theaters. The
Moscow Circus Niculina, on Flower Boule-
Christ the Savior Church
vard since 1880, is home to incredible acts
by various artists: skilled jugglers, amusing
clowns, and daring equilibrists and lion tamers. A substantial collection of national
art may be seen in the famous Tretyakovskaya Gallery, while the Museum of Art,
named after Pushkin, offers exhibits from
around the world, in addition to a valuable
permanent collection.
Energy and stamina are required to fully
experience the vast architecture of Moscow. One will need to cope with wide
boulevards and the length of the Moscow
Metro station halls, the heights of very tall
buildings, and the lure of infinite cultural
events and entertainment. Nonetheless,
invested time and effort pay significant
rewards.
Civilization did not break the spirit of Moscow - a blend of interwoven cultures and
influences. This is precisely the secret of its
seductiveness. The Ceylon princess Farida,
the wife of the Russian diplomat Michael Bondarenko, once said that Moscow is
the most interesting city in the world. Not
30
surprisingly countless others share in this
opinion.
8*'
Rublyovka is the unofficial name of the
territory surrounding the Rublyovo-Uspenski Highway. The first villas of high-ranking
government officials as well as retirees of
the Soviet cultural elite appeared here
in 1930. After the war, this was where diplomats from the West lived for reason of
its symbolic western positioning, among
others. Recently these ecologically attractive, forested banks of the Moscow River
have been purchased by celebrities, politicians, and industrial magnates. The leading
world brands have opened their shops in
Rublyovka specifically for these hi-end residents. Upon entering the forests of Rublyovka, extremely imaginative alleyways
appear, patterned identically in a series of
rows, with exclusive shops boasting bran-
ds like Gucci, Bentley, Lamborghini, Ferrari,
and Harley-Davidson. As the wealthy are
often eccentric, a recent craze of Rublyovka was a helicopter operation course designed to ease transport as traffic jams are so
common here. Geared specifically for housewives, this idea was meant to ease the
lives of these wealthy wives.
Money cannot buy taste, as is demonstrated by all sorts of oddities in Rublyovka. Houses “warn you” when approaching them
too closely. Several homeowners have built
private churches next to their homes, competing with neighbors in a show of money
and power. Conversely, it is precisely in
Rublyovka, with its pleasant smell of forest
damp and moss, where a young pianist will
give a private concert at one of the many
new log-style homes. Among such ambience residents are reminded of how inspiring life can be. Money, after all, can easily
afford such pleasures.
Montenegro Airlines flies to
Moscow up to four times per day.
Za svaki slucaj
Just in Case
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Why Travel Health Insurance? Just in case.
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Trajanje osiguranja prilagođeno je Vašim potrebama –
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Za sve one koji putuju često, osiguranje se može ugovoriti na
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Duration of insurance is tailored to your needs –
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Neka Vam putničko osiguranje postane navika i prije svakog
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Let your travel insurance become a habit and before you travel, visit
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osiguranja, što predstavlja čin zaključenja ugovora o osiguranju.
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Srećan i bezbrižan put želi Vam Sava Montenegro AD!
Sava Montenegro AD wish you a pleasant and safe journey!
Sava Montenegro AD
Rimski trg 70, 81000 Podgorica
Tel/fax: +382 20 234 008 · Call center: +382 20 40 30 20
www.sava.co.me , info@sava.co.me
prodaja
na
RATE
Piše: Maja Dragićević-Roganović
Fotografije: Miodrag Marković
M
oje Cetinje je istorija. U njemu je
izatkan duboki ponos, iz njega
izvire duhovna snaga mojih sugrađana, ali i cijele Crne Gore. Svaka njegova sreća ili nesreća, uspjeh ili neuspjeh,
uzlet ili pad, bio je sudbinski vezan za državu. Nema, valjda, manje prijestonice, a da
je bila meta moćnijih imperija i carevina.
Kao feniks, Cetinje se rađalo nanovo, uvijek
jače, ljepše i – prkosnije. Prkos kao uslov
opstanka i kao način trajanja. Stranice njegove slavne istorije pune su krvavih megdana, bojeva i bitaka, i još uvijek žive u sjećanjima žitelja ovog, za mene, čarobnog i
neponovljivog grada. Tu veličanstvenu sliku prošlosti, ponekad nesvjesno izgubimo
u skromnosti i tišini današnje svakodnevice. Ali, veseli i razdragani glasovi najmlađih
i njihova ozarena lica pokazuju da su sva
nekadašnja iskušenja i sve nedaće bili zalog za bolji i srećniji život. Kao što je pjesnik
zabilježio: „...na grobu će iznići cvijeće, za
daleka neka pokoljenja”.
Malo je urbanih mjesta u Evropi u kojima
spomenici kulture nijesu pretvoreni u kvaziidilične kulise, ili pak, podređeni turističkim dekorativnim sadržajima. Cetinje je
imalo sreću jer je većim dijelom sačuvalo
prvobitnu autentičnost, originalnost i duhovnost. To može primijetiti i osjetiti svaki
posjetilac. Zato se oni koji jedanput dođu, Cetinju uvijek vraćaju. Cetinjske noći,
svježe i pune mirisa lipa, zauvijek ostaju u
duši. Kao sjenka idu za čovjekom, ma gdje
da ode. Te noći pune zvijezda, kada je svaka emocija visoka do vrha Lovćena i svaki
pogled jasan i bistar kao djetinji, i čine nas
Cetinjanima. Znamo to, ogrnuti decentnom otmenošću i plemenitom, nenametljivom ljepotom naših ulica i trgova, gdje
još – za noći punih mjesečine, ili za onih
dana kada padaju duge cetinjske kiše – naš
grad usred krša ipak diše mediteranski i miriše na narandže i lipe...
VREMEPLOV
Šetajući njegovim ulicama proputovaćete kroz vrijeme, vratiti se u prošlost i ‚sresti’
brojne harizmatične ličnosti koje su ovdje
živjele i kraće ili duže vrijeme boravile. Kod
crkve na Ćipuru, gdje je štampana prva
južnoslovenska knjiga, srešćete Ivana i
Đurđa Crnojevića; ispred Manastira, bastiona i čuvara slobodarske misli i crnogorske
tradicije, sigurnim korakom prolazi Petar I
Petrović, svetac i otac naše duhovnosti; u
Biljardi, kamenom zdanju s kulama, svoje
rime i misli zapisuje Rade Tomov; od Dvora
Nikole I, cara junaka, sve do Vladina doma,
pored impozantnih građevina baroknog
stila, sa bijelim suncobranima u rukama,
eno, šetaju naše lijepe princeze... A naveče, kad odu posljednje sunčeve zrake i
sjen noći pokrije grad, vidjećete ih sve tu,
u neposrednoj blizini, u Kraljevskom pozorištu. Samo nek se podigne zastor i nek igra
počne! Vidjećete i onu cetinjsku momčad i
djevojke što su dane provodili u biblioteci i
čitaonici, skupljajući znanje i istine o svijetu
i ljudima, iz tada dostupnih i poznatih knjiga i zapisa... I, kako onda da ne povjerujete
da ste i sami akter jedne od mnogih cetinjskih priča?
Moje je Cetinje grad poslanstava, odnosno
ljubavi za arhitekturu. Nakon Berlinskog
kongresa, podizanjem dvanaest diplomatskih predstavništava, vladarskih rezidencija
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35
i objekata za smještaj državnih, kulturnih
i prosvjetiteljskih ustanova, i naš vladar i
naša mala sredina, prihvatili su savremene
tendencije u graditeljstvu i ta zanimljiva
i osobena arhitektonska rješenja oplemenila su izgled grada. Iako je bilo pod
snažnim uticajem tradicije i preplitanja
Istoka i Zapada, Cetinje je krajem XIX vijeka
uspjelo da se približi savremenoj evropskoj
umjetnosti i da, polako, prihvati evropske
manire i način življenja. Otuda kod nas
skijanje, klizanje, tenis, golf… Dva divna
parka, njegovana od 1895. godine, bila su
briga princeze Ksenije Petrović. Ona je vodila računa i o vrsti drveća i o broju stabala.
Tu su i teniska igrališta, ali i naša Ljetnja pozornica, koja podsjeća na antička pozorišta
i mnogo nam znači ljeti, kada nam u goste
stižu umjetnici i zabavljači sa svih strana.
POGLED
SA VISINE
Nad gradom se uzdiže Orlov krš, na čijem
je platou podignut mauzolej vladici Danilu,
rodonačelniku dinastije Petrović Njegoš.
Sa Orlovog krša lako se sagledava cijelo
Cetinje, naš mali i veliki grad: crveni krovovi, istorijske građevine, ulice i parkovi, male
travnate parcele, voćnjaci i njivice zasađene povrćem, oteti su kršu i, sa visine, djeluju kao da su naslikani. Ako ste skloni meditaciji ili, prosto, želite da se odmorite od
svega na mjestu gdje će vam samo ptica
uznemiriti pogled, popnite se do Orlovog
krša. Mnoge stvari, baš kao i mnoge misli,
drugačije djeluju odavde.
Moje Cetinje je grad specifičnog humora.
Oduvijek je imalo kafanice u kojima se odvijao zanimljiv život, vodili se dugi i iscrpljujući razgovori o politici i drugim važnim
pitanjima, i rađao cinični, a sasvim dobronamjerni humor. Pamte se mnoge aneg36
dote o načinu života, poznatim ličnostima
i aktuelnim dešavanjima, sa originalnim,
do suza duhovitim porukama. Taj zanimljivi
kafanski život danas se preselio u kafiće, ali
Cetinjani nijesu zaboravili kako se stvaraju
dobre šale, niti su zaboravili da je smijeh
lijek i da nema ljutnje, ma šta da se desi.
Eto, i taj i takav humor čini nas Cetinjanima.
Kao što nas Cetinjanima čini i onaj ponos
na pretke i prohujala, slavna vremena. Naši
kafići, slični pariskim bistroima i talijanskim baštama, vrlo često imaju simbolična
imena: Gaeta, Antib..., ali nijedan nije kao
Lokanda! Iz nekadašnje Lokande nikli su
velikani cetinjskog humora, pa poučeni
tim iskustvom lako podliježemo svemu što
razgaljuje dušu i uljepšava život. U našem
gradu nalaze se i tri akademije: likovna,
muzička i akademija dramskih umjetnosti.
Smještene su u starim zdanjima nekadašnjih poslanstava, te nas i tako podsjećaju
na važnost umjetničke i svake druge povezanosti sa svijetom. A studenti, u svojim
kratkim pauzama, razdragano i mladalački
zaneseno uljepšavaju nama ionako lijepu
sliku grada…
Ako poželite da provjerite moje riječi, dođite. Dođite na Cetinje kad zamirišu lipe.
Obećavam da ćete se srećno smijati, da
će vam se duša ugrijati. Obećavam da ćete naći prijatelje i lako razumjeti zašto naš
grad volimo više od svega. I garantujem: u
dugim sjenkama koje pred zalazak padaju
na zidove naših građevina i kuća, prepoznaćete i sami mnoge od onih velikana koji
su ovdje živjeli i zbog kojih je Cetinje oduvijek i vaša prijestonica.
MAESTRAL RESORT & CASINO
Relax, play and
entertainment
In romantic rocky bay of the Montenegrin Riviera, above
the charming send beach, lays hotel “Maestral. The name
has been taken from the fresh aromatic wind that has
been companion of that picturesque rocky coast through
the summer months. It has been splashed by the warm
sea of the south Adriatic, and leans on the mountain
background, which through the wormiest days brings to
the sunny coast the freshness of the spring.
Hotel offers the high quality of 418 beds in 196 rooms and
18 apartments. All rooms have air condition, safe
strongboxes, mini-bars, telephone, TV (possibility of Pay
TV). Most of the rooms have the beautiful view on the sea
and Internet access.
MAESTRAL RESORT & CASINO
Odmor, igra i zabava
U romantiènom stjenovitom zalivu crnogorskog primorja,
iznad ljupke pješèane plaže, nalazi se potpuno obnovljeni
hotel “Maestral". Ime nosi po svježem aromatiènom vjetru
koji je tokom ljetnih mjeseci stalni pratilac te slikovite
stjenovite obale. Zapljuskuje ga toplo more južnog
Jadrana, a naslanja se na brdovito zaleðe koje i u
najtoplijim mjesecima donosi svježinu proljeæa.
Hotel raspolaže sa 418 ležaja u 196 sobi i 18 apartmana
najviše kategorije. Sve sobe su klimatizovane i imaju sef,
mini-bar, telefon, televizor (moguænost Pay TV). Veæina
ima predivan pogled na more i pristup Internetu.
Opuštanje i rekreacija
"Maestral" vodi brigu i o trenucima potpunog opuštanja.
Gosti hotela mogu da iskoriste prednosti kompletne
wellness ponude na jednom mjestu.
Razni bazeni i sauna centar sa finskom i infracrvenom
saunom i turskim i rimskim kupatilom, kozmetièki salon,
specijalni tretmani za podmlaðivanje, estetska
stomatološka ordinacija, kupke sa masažom, a prije svega
vrhunska udobnost, u potpunosti æe vas oèarati. U centru
tradicionalne tajlandske masaže "Sa Wann" moæi æete da
birate najrazlièitije vrste masaža.
Igra i zabava
Bez prave, uzbudljive zabave nema ni odmora. Potražiæete
je u "Maestralovoj" igraènici koja treperi svjetlima 130
automata za igru, 3 elektronska ruleta, stolova za amerièki
rulet, midi punto banco, blek-džek, HIT-ov progresivni draw
poker i Texas Hold’em Poker. Na pozornici za priredbe
možete vidjeti vrhunske koncerte, kabare i druge zabavne
programe. Od 2010. godine obogatili smo našu ponudu
redovnim organizovanjem poker turnira.
Relaxing and recreation
“Maestral” takes care about the moments of total relaxing.
Guests of the hotel can use the advantages of the full
wellness offer at one place. Different types of pools and
sauna center with the Finland and infrared saunas,
Roman and Turkish bathroom, cosmetic salon, medical
and dentist center, bath massages, and more than
anything, there is a great comfort that will bewitch you
completely. In the gorgeous center of the traditional
Thailand massage “Sa Wann”, we will pamper you with
the most different types of massages.
Play and entertainment
Without the real and exited fun, there is not a real
vacation. You can find it in the “Maestral’s” playground
that shines with the lights of the 130 slot machines, 3
electric roulettes, as well as American Rulette, Black Jack,
Texas Hold’em Poker, Midi Punto Banco and HIT Progressive Draw Poker tables. On the auditorium of spectacles
“Theatre” you can see grand concerts, cabarets as well as many other entertainment programs. From 2010 we enhanced
our entertainment offer through regular organization of poker tournaments.
MAESTRAL
Pržno, 85315 Sveti Stefan
Montenegro
t +382 33 410 108, 410 109
hotel@maestral.info
www.maestral.info
APART HOTEL TRE CANNE
BUDVA- CRNA GORA
Energy efficient and environmentaly friendly project with generated energy saving during the
building exploitation- 68% of energy balance compearing to the building designed in the classical consumption and construction systems.
Real Estate Sales & Marketing
+382 69 019 999; +382 69 019 989;
e-mail: trecanne@fablive.me;
www.trecanne.me
Written by: Maja Dragićević Roganović
Photos: Miodrag Marković
OUR CITIES
STORY OF CETINJE
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My Cetinje is history. It is embroidered
with deep pride, the spiritual strength
of my fellow citizens and of the whole of
Montenegro springs from it. Every one of
his fortunes or misfortunes, successes or
failures, rises or declines was vitally linked
to the state. There is no, I believe, smaller
capital that was the target of more powerful empires and kingdoms. Like a phoenix,
Cetinje rose again, always stronger, and
more beautiful – more defiant. Defiance as
a condition for survival and as a way of duration. Pages of its glorious history are full
of bloody duels, combats and battles, and
they still live in the memories of the inhabitants of this, to me, magical and unique
city. We sometimes unconsciously lose this
magnificent image of the past, in the humility and silence of the present everyday
life. However, cheerful and joyful voices
of the youngest and their beaming faces
show that all former temptations, and all
the troubles, were a pledge for a better
and happier life. As a poet once noted: “..
the flowers will spring from the grave, for
some distant generations.”
There are but a few urban places in Europe
where cultural monuments have not been
converted into quasi-idyllic scenery, or
even, subordinated to decorative tourist
attractions. Cetinje was lucky because it
has largely preserved its original authenticity, originality and spirituality. Every visi-
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tor noticed and felt this. That is why those
who come once, always return to Cetinje.
Night in Cetinje, fresh and full of linden
tree scent, forever remains in the soul. They
follow the person as a shadow, wherever
he goes. Those nights full of stars, when
every emotion is as high as Lovćen and
every glance clear and bright as a child’s,
are what makes us residents of Cetinje.
We are aware of that, clothed in the subtle refinement and noble, unobtrusive
beauty of our streets and squares, where in nights of full moon, or during the days
when those long Cetinje’s rains fall - our
city in the middle of the rocks still breaths
in a Mediterranean way and smells of oranges and linden.
TIME MACHINE
Near the church on Ćipur, where the first
South Slavic book was printed, you will
meet Ivan Crnojević and Djurdj Crnojević,
in front of the Monastery, bastion and
guardian of libertarian thought and
Montenegrin tradition, Petar I Petrović is
passing with a steady pace, a saint and
the father of our spirituality; in Biljarda,
stone mansion with towers, Rade Tomov
writes his rhymes and thoughts; from the
palace of Nikola I, tsar hero, all the way to
the Government House, next to the striking Baroque-style buildings, with white
parasols in their hands, there, our beautiful
princesses are taking a stroll...
And in the evening, when the last sun rays
depart and the shadow of the night covers
the city, you will see them all in the immediate vicinity, at the Royal Theatre. Let the
curtain be lifted and let the game begin!
You will see those lads from Cetinje and
the girls that have spent the days in the library and reading room, gathering knowledge and truths about the world and peo43
ple, from the, at that time, available and
famous books and records ... How can you
not believe that you are the actor in one of
the many stories from Cetinje?
My Cetinje is a city of consulates, i.e. love
for architecture. After the Berlin Congress,
constructing twelve diplomatic offices,
royal residences and government buildings for accommodation of state, cultural
and enlightenment institutions, our ruler
and our small community, embraced the
modern tendencies in architecture and
these interesting and distinctive architectural solutions have enriched the appearance of the city.
Even though it has been strongly influenced by tradition and the intermingling
of East and West, Cetinje has, in late XIX
century, succeeded to approach the
modern European art and gradually ac44
cept European manners and way of living.
Hence, we now have skiing, skating, tennis,
golf... Two wonderful parks, nurtured since
1895, they were the concern of Princess
Ksenija Petrović. She took care of the tree
species and the number of trees. There
we have tennis courts, as well as our summer stage which is reminiscent of ancient
theaters and is of great importance to us
when we are welcoming artists and entertainers from all sides.
A VIEW
FROM ABOVE
Orlov krš arises above the city, on whose
plateau was erected a mausoleum to
Bishop Danilo, founder of the Petrović
Njegoš dynasty. One can easily perceive
whole of Cetinje from Orlov krš, our small,
big city: red rooftops, historic buildings,
streets and parks, small grassy parcels, orchards and small plowing fields planted
with vegetables, they were hijack from the
rock and, from a height, like as if they were
painted on. If you are inclined to meditation, or simply wish to take a break from
everything in a place where your view will
only be disturbed by the birds, climb up
to Orlov krš. Many things, just like many
thoughts, have a different effect from here.
It always had taverns in which interesting
life unfolded, long and exhausting discussions were held on politics and other important issues, and cynical and quite benevolent humor was being born. Many anecdotes about lifestyle, famous people and
current affairs are remembered, with original humorous messages that would dry
one to tears. That interesting tavern lives
has nowadays relocated into cafés, but
people of Cetinje have not forgotten how
good jokes are created, not have they forgotten that laughter is a cure and there are
no hard feelings, no matter what happens.
There, that kind of humor makes us people
from Cetinje. Just as the pride makes us the
people of Cetinje, pride of ancestors and
bygone, glorious times, so our cafés, similar
to Parisian bistros and Italian gardens, very
often have symbolic names: Gaeta, Antib ...
but none of them is like Lokanda! The giants of Cetinje’s humor sprang from the
former Lokanda, and taught by that experience, we are easily subjected to everything
that exhilarates the soul and beautifies life.
We have three academies in our city: art,
music and the academy of dramatic arts.
They are situated in old buildings of former
consulates, and remind us of the importance of artistic and every other relationship with the world. And the students, in
their short breaks, joyfully and youthfully
astonished adorn the, to us already, beautiful image of the city...
If you wish to verify my words visit us.
Come to Cetinje when the scent of the linden is noticed. I promise that you will laugh
joyfully, that your soul will warm up. I promise that you will gain friends and easily understand why we love our city more than
everything. And I guarantee: in the long
shadows that fall on the walls of our buildings and houses before the sunset, you will
recognize many of those great people who
lived here and because of which Cetinje
has always been your capital too.
45
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NA RULETU ISTORIJE
SLAVI NAUK,
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M
ihaila, prvog kralja Duklje (Zete),
za kralja (Rex Sclavorum) proglasio je papa Grgur VII 1077. godine. Mihailov sin Bodin (vladao od 1081.
do 1101.) osnovao je Barsku nadbiskupiju
1089. godine uz pomoć pape, a na prijestolu ga je 1101. godine naslijedila njegova
žena, kraljica Jakvinta.
koji je došao na skijama u Crnu Goru. Bilo
je to 17. januara 1893. godine. Sa Cetinja je
krenuo u obilazak Crne Gore. Doživljaje sa
tog putovanja opisao je kasnije u knjizi „Na
skijama kroz Crnu Goru”. Na zahtjev knjaza
Nikole kasnije je na Cetinje donio stotinu
pari skija i osnovao kurs skijanja za vojnike i
imućne crnogorske mladiće.
ciji. Gvozdenović je jedan godišnji odmor
proveo u Monte Karlu i na ruletu dobio
orgroman novac, ali je zakasnio na voz za
Varšavu, gdje je službovao. Da bi na vrijeme stigao u vojnu jedinicu u Varšavi, naručio je posebnu kompoziciju sa jednim
vagonom! Prevoz je platio novcem dobijenim u kazinu i na vrijeme stigao u Varšavu.
Ivan Crnojević je za svoju državu nabavio štampariju u Veneciji, koja slovi za prvu ćiriličnu državnu štampariju na svijetu.
Francuski filozof Volter zapisao je: „Ima li
na svijetu ijedne druge nacije osim crnogorske koja ima štampariju?”. Štamparija je
svrstala tadašnje Crnogorce u prosvijećene
evropske narode.
Marin Bečić (1468, Skadar – 1526, Padova,)
prvi je književni kritičar u Crnoj Gori.
Književnu kritiku pisao je na italijanskom i
latinskom jeziku. U Padovi je imao privatnu
školu književnosti.
Knjaginja Darinka Petrović, žena knjaza
Danila, donijela je 1855. godine prvi kišobran u Crnu Goru. Vuk Popović Rišnjanin
pisao je maja 1857. godine da se: „Sestre i
nevjesta knjaza Nikole šetaju sa lumbrelinama u rukama kao maškare”. Mnogo kasnije, 1907. godine, Škotlanđanin Hari de
Vint pisao je da u Crnoj Gori i muškarci nose kišobrane.
Šćepan Mali, jedan od crnogorskih vladara
čije porijeklo, pravo ime i zvanje još uvijek
predstavljaju pravu enigmu, po mnogim
pretpostavkama, bio je u stvari doktor filozofije Jovan Baljević. Baljević je doktorirao
na Univerzitetu u Haleu u Njemačkoj, 1752.
godine, a kasnije je postao major ruske vojske. Jedan od argumenata da je Šćepan
Mali upravo Jovan Baljević jeste i to da bi
neko vrlo teško mogao ostvariti ono što je
pošlo za rukom Šćepanu Malom, a da nije bio Crnogorac koji je dobro poznavao
mentalitet svojih sunarodnika.
Princeza Ksenija (1881, Cetinje – 1960,
Pariz), osma kćerka kralja Nikole i kraljice
Milene, bila je prva žena na Balkanu koja je
vozila automobil.
Henrik Angel, norveški oficir, prvi je čovjek
54
Dimitrije, pop iz Crne Gore, bio je u XVI
vijeku ambasador u kontaktima između Melanhtona, nasljednika Martina
Lutera (osnivača protestantske crkve
u Njemačkoj), i Vaseljenske patrijaršije.
Često je putovao između Augsburga i
Carigrada, pripremajući teren da se protestanti iz Njemačke pridruže pravoslavcima.
Iznerviran odugovlačenjem Vaseljenske
patrijaršije, učinio je obratno: preveo je njemačke katolike iz sedam rumunskih gradova u – protestantizam!
Ante Gvozdenović (1854, Vučji Do – 1935,
Ćeklići), general i crnogorski poslanik u
Vašingtonu za vrijeme Prvog svjetskog rata, bio je ruski sanitetski general, službovao
je u Vojno-medicinskoj upravi Kavkaskog
vojnog okruga, a potom u Moskvi i Varšavi.
Gvozdenović je bio jedan od prvih crnogorskih ljekara. Diplomirao u Moskvi 1872,
a u vrijeme izgnanstva kralja Nikole bio je
predsjednik crnogorske vlade u emigra-
Kleant Teodorides, iz Cetinja, prvi je seksolog na svijetu. Dr Teodorides napisao je
knjigu „Tajne bračne ljubavi”, prvu takve
vrste na svijetu. Teodorides je Grk, rođen
1865. godine u Jedrenu. U Crnu Goru došao je kao dijete. Njegov brat bio je ljekar u turskoj vojsci za vrijeme Veljeg rata
(1876–1878). Crnogorci su ga zarobili i on
je ostao u njihovoj službi, a potom je čitava
porodica Teodorides došla iz Grčke i nastanila se na Cetinju. Kao stipendista crnogorske vlade Teodorides je završio medicinu
u Carigradu, a zatim je radio u cetinjskoj
bolnici Danilo I. Zvaničnim osnivačem seksologije kao naučne discipline smatra se dr
August Forel, koji je na francuskom jeziku
objavio 1905. godine knjigu „Polno pitanje”,
deset godina nakon knjige dr Teodoridesa.
Ilustracija: Nada Bukilić
55
IN A ROULETTE OF HISTORY
CELEBRATE
EDUCATION,
HOLD ON TO
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M
ihailo, the first king of Duklja
(Doclea or Zeta), was declared
a king (Rex Sclavorum) by Pope
St. Gregory VII in 1077. Mihailo’s son Bodin
(ruled from 1081 to 1101) founded the bishopric of Bar in 1089 with the help of the
Pope, and was succeeded on the throne
by his wife, Queen Jakvinta in 1101.
Ivan Crnojević acquired a printing house in Venice for his own country, which
is considered to be the first Cyrillic state
printing house in the world. The French
philosopher Voltaire wrote: “Is there any
other nation in the world, apart from
the Montenegrin, that owns a printing
house?” The printing house placed the
Montenegrin nation among the enlightened European nations.
Šćepan Mali (Šćepan the Little), one of
the rulers whose origin, real name and title still represents an enigma, under many
assumptions was actually doctor of philosophy Jovan Baljević. Baljević received his
doctorate at University of Halle in Germany
58
in 1752, and later became a major in the
Russian army. One of the arguments that
Šćepan Mali is actually Jovan Baljević is also
that hardly anyone could achieve what
Šćepan Mali managed to do, if he was not
a Montenegrin who new the mentality if
his fellow countrymen well.
Princess Ksenija (Cetinje, 1881 - 1960,
Paris), the eighth daughter of king Nikola
and queen Milena, was the first woman in
the Balkans to drive an automobile.
Henrik Angel, Norwegian officer, was the
first man to bring skiis to Montenegro.
This happened in January 17th 1893.
He left from Cetinje and set forth to tour
Montenegro. He later on described the adventures from that trip in a book entitled
“Traveling on Skiis through Montenegro”.
At the request of Prince Nikola, he afterwards, brought hundreds of pairs of skiis
to Cetinje and established a skiing training
for soldiers and wealthy Montenegrin young men.
Marin Bečić (Skadar, 1468 - Padua, 1526)
was the first literary critic in Montenegro.
He wrote literary criticism in Italian and
Latin. He had a private school of literature
in Padova.
Dimitrije, a priest from Montenegro, was
an Ambassador in XVI in contacts between Melanchton, Martin Luther King’s
successor (founder of the protestant
church in Germany), and the Ecumenical
Patriarchate of Constantinople. He often traveled between Augsburg and
Constantinople, preparing the field for the
German Protestants to join the Orthodox
Christians.
Ante Gvozdenović (Vučji Do, 1854 - Ćeklići,
1935), general and Montenegrin delegate
to Washington during the First World War,
he was a Russian medical general, served
in the Military Medical administration of
the Caucasus military district, and then in
Moscow and Warsaw. Gvozdenović was
one of the first Montenegrin doctors. He
graduated in Moscow in 1872, and during
Illustration: Nada Bukilić
King Nikola’s exile, he was an expatriate
Prime Minister. Gvozdenović spent one holiday in Monte Carlo and won a substantional amount of money in roulette, but he
was late for the train that was supposed to
take him to Warsaw, where he served as an
officer. In order to arrive on time in the military unit in Warsaw, he ordered a special
composition with one carriage! He paid
for the transportation with his own money
that he won in the casino and arrived in
Warsaw on time.
Princess Darinka Petrović, Price Danilo’s
wife, brought the first umbrella to Monte-
negro in 1855. Vuk Popović Rišnjanin wrote
in May of 1857 that: “Sisters and the bride
of Prince Nikola are taking a walk with umbrellas in their hands like it is a carnival.”
Much later, in 1907, Scotsman Harry De
Windt wrote that in Montenegro even the
men carry umbrellas.
Kleant Teodorides, from Cetinje, was the
first Sexologist in the world. Dr Teodorides
wrote a book “Secrets of marital love”
the first book of its kind in the world.
Teodorides was Greek, born in 1865 in
Adrianople. He came to Montenegro as
a child. His brother was a doctor in the
Turkish army during the war from 18761878. Montenegrins captured him and he
stayed in their service, after which the whole Teodorides family came from Greece
and settled in Cetinje. As a scholar of the
Montenegrin Government, Teodorides graduated medicine in Constantinople, and
then worked in Cetinje’s hospital “Danilo I”.
Official founder of Sexology as a scientific
discipline is dr Auguste Forel, who published a book entitled “The Sexual Question”,
in French language in 1905, ten years after
dr Teodorides’ book.
59
We invite you to experience unique feeling in unspoiled nature beauty, in the surrounding of
Durmitor massif, its lakes, rivers and canyons. These resources make Zabljak one of the most
beautiful mountain resorts in the Balkans.
ABOUT HOTEL
Respecting nature and environmental values, hotel SOA has been
built at Žabljak, in the very heart of the National park Durmitor.
Whether you are on a business trip, a romantic weekend or on a
holiday with your family, Hotel offers you eight rooms and 10 suites
that provide complete comfort.
With a magnificent view of Durmitor massif, by fireplace, enjoy
delicious meals and a selection of various desserts.
Address: National park Durmitor 84220 Zabljak, Montenegro
Tel: +382 (0)52 360 110 Fax: +382 (0)52 360 111 Mob: +382 (0)69 151 152
Email: info@hotelsoa.com Web: www.hotelsoa.com
PROIZVODNJA:
Majevička br. 18
Tel: + 382 20 262 277
81000 Podgorica,
Crna Gora
www.doding.co.me
SHOW ROOM:
Cetinjski put bb
(preko puta Delta city-ja)
Mob: 069 018 181
Tel: + 382 20 290 290
KO BI TO REKAO?
KANJON NEVIDIO
Tekst: Doc. dr Goran Barović, Fotografija: Duško Miljanić
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ijeka Komarnica teče u visokoplaninskom pojasu Crne Gore.
Prolaskom ispod mosta na Cikavcu,
počinje najzanimljiviji dio Komarnice – kanjon Nevidio. starosjedioca ovog kraja izazivao je strahopoštovanje jer se mnogo
puta desilo da u njega, zbog nepažnje,
upadnu i stradaju i stoka i čobani. Zbog
konfiguracije samog kanjona, kao i zbog
nepoznavanja tehnika savladavanja takvih
prepreka, u mnogim slučajevima nije bilo
pomoći.
Kanjon Nevidio posljednji je savladani kanjon u Evropi. Ekipa beogradskog
Geozavoda 1957. godine prva je bezuspješ64
no pokušala proći kanjon – radi istraživanja
u cilju formiranja Hidroenergetskog sistema
„Gornja Zeta”. Drugi put to su pokušali i članovi ekspedicije koju su formirali Planinarski
savezi Crne Gore i Srbije u ljeto 1964.
Ekipa je napravila trase po njegovim stranama, a ujedno i obezbjeđenje za eventualni povratak nazad. Nakon nekoliko
desetina metara, povratak nazad moguć je
samo alpinističkim tehnikama.
Sljedeće godine, samoorganizovana ekipa,
koju je predvodio Miloš Bojanović, konačno je pobijedila mit kanjona Nevidio! Od
tada se ovaj kanjon savladava, ali samo ako
ste iskusni planinar, alpinista, ronilac, speleolog... Nevidio se može preći za dva do
tri sata, naravno uz dobre plivačke i fizičke
sposobnosti jer konfiguracija terena ne dopušta upotrebu plovnih sredstava.
Prvi prolazak kroz kanjon trajao je tri dana.
Sam kanjon dug je oko 3,9 km, a visinska razlika između Cikavca i sastavka sa
Pridvoricom je oko 200 metara. Kanjon je
na nekim mjestima dubok više od 350 m, a
širok između jednog i pet metara.
Članovi prve ekspedicije koja je savladala
kanjon svjedoče da je strah od neizvjesnosti u koju su sve dublje ulazili i od opasnosti kojoj su bili izloženi bio izbrisan neo-
čekivanom ljepotom kanjona. Usamljeno
sitno rastinje koje se povremeno javljalo iz
stijena, bijeli pjenušavi vodopadi, uski tjesnaci, mračne okapine, strme, kao nožem
rasječene, litice i – oko podneva – poneki
sunčev zrak, potvrđuju da samo priroda
može sve ovo i ovako ukomponovati na
jednom mjestu.
Posjeta kanjonu moguća je samo ljeti, u
vrijeme niskog vodostaja, zbog temperature vode koja ni tada ne prelazi 15˚C i zbog
bezbroj skakala, bukova, brzaka i virova, ali
i nepredvidljivih ćudi kanjona. Sve drugo je
veoma rizično.
Prostor oko kanjona karakterišu neobični prirodni motivi, zanimljive reljefne forme, veliki broj interesantnih speleoloških
objekata, tragovi glacijacije, kao i reliktne
i endemične biljne vrste. Ipak, svojom jedinstvenošću i neponovljivim geomorfološkim oblikom Nevidio nadvisuje sve te
ljepote.
WHO KNEW?
NEVIDIO CANYON
Text: Doc. dr Goran Barović, Photo: Duško Miljanić
7
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omarnica River flows in the highmountain strip of Montenegro.
Upon passing under the bridge on
Cikavac, begins the most interesting part
of Komarnica - Nevidio Canyon. It inspires awe in locals from this region, because
cattle and shepherds fell in and died many
times due to carelessness. Due to the
configuration of the canyon itself, as well
as due to the lack of knowledge of techniques necessary to conquer such barriers,
in many cases there was no help.
Nevidio Canyon was the last conquered
canyon in Europe. Team of “Geozavod”
from Belgrade was the first to unsuccessfully attempt to pass through the canyon
in 1957, to explore in order to form a hydro
energy system, “Gornja Zeta.” The second
attempt was made by the members of the
expedition formed by the Mountaineering
Association of Montenegro and Serbia, in
the summer of 1964.
The following year, a self-organized team
led by Miloš Bojanović finally conquered
the myth of Nevidio! This canyon has been
conquered since then, but only if you are
an experienced mountaineer, alpinist, diver, speleologist... Nevidio can be crossed
within two to three hours, naturally, with
good swimming and physical abilities, because the configuration of the terrain does
not allow the use of vessels.
The first passage through the canyon lasted three days. The team made tracks at
its sides, and also a safeguard for the eventual return. After a few tens of meters, the
return is only possible with climbing techniques.
The length of the canyon itself is about 3.9
km, and the altitude difference between
Cikavac and confluence with Pridvorica
is about 200 meters. In certain places, the
canyon is more than 350 m deep and
between one and five meters wide.
Members of the first expedition that
conquered the canyon, testified that the
fear of uncertainty in which they entered
ever deeper and of the danger they were
exposed to was erased by the unexpected
beauty of the canyon. Solitary, small vegetation that occasionally emerged from the
rocks, white foaming waterfalls, narrow
straits, small dark caves, steep knife cut
cliffs and - around noon - an occasional
sunbeam, confirm that only nature can
incorporate all this in one place in such a
manner.
Visit the canyon is only possible in
summertime, during low water levels, due
to temperature of water that, even then,
does not exceed 15˚C and due to the
myriad of waterfalls, rapids and whirlpools, as well as the unpredictable temperaments of Nevidio. Everything else is very
risky.
The area around the canyon is characterized by unusual natural motifs, engaging
relief forms, numerous interesting speleological sites, traces of glaciations, as well
as relict and endemic species of plants.
However, with its uniqueness and unrepeatable geomorphological shape, Nevidio
surpasses all those beauties.
69
LIMITED EDITION
LIMITED EDITION
Vinograd datira s početka dvadesetog vijeka. Nalazi se zapadno od Podgorice, na mikrolokaciji poznatoj u
tradiciji i zdravicama kao Rupice komanske. Vinograd je integralni. Pored njega se nalaze višegodišnje smokve,
dunje i kruške.
This vineyard dates back to the early twentieth century. It is located west of Podgorica, at a micro-location
recognised in the tradition and mentioned in toasts as Rupice Komanske. The whole vineyard is grown in one
piece of land. Perennial figs, quince and pears can be found next to it.
Vino sa ovog vinograda je 1907. godine učestvovalo na balkanskoj izložbi u Londonu, gdje je crnogorsku
izložbu za četiri mjeseca, koliko je bila otvorena, posjetilo 1285000 ljudi, a kao dobro i visoko kvalitetno vino
pilo se i na mnogim evropskim dvorovima.
Wine from this vineyard was presented in the Balkan wine fair in London in 1907, which was open for four months, where the Montenegrin stand was visited by 1,285,000 people. Also, this wine was served
as high quality wine in many European royal palaces.
Vinograd je dva puta obnovljen - prvi put
1970. godine, a drugi put 2007. godine i to novim sortama loza, sa dvije autohtone vranac i
kratošija i dvije italijanske sangenoveze i marselan.
Za života prvog vlasnika, do početka 1980.
godine, vinograd je održavan na tradicionalan
ekološki način. Naime, vino i rakija su se proizvodili u malim količinana i prodavali poznatom kupcu u malim staklenim demidžanama
od 5 litara, ispletenim prućem.
Naslednica vinograda, poštujući tradiciju,
a koristeći zemlju, klimu i ličnu emociju koju osjeća kao dug prema precima,
počinje proizvodnju DI loze i DIvine sa
potpisom svog đeda Milovana Pejovića
na etiketi, nastojeći da održi nivo i način
proizvodnje koju vinograd sa ovakvim
karakteristikama zaslužuje, a trudeći se
da pakovanjem udovolji najzahtjevnijim kupcima ovog vremena.
Ime rakije su inicijali vlasnice, a ime vina
je spoj inicijala vlasnice i engleske riječi
za božansko, kako ovom vinu i pripada.
U CRNOJ GORI PROBAJTE
NAJBOLJE SA SOBOM
PONESITE SAMO NAJBOLJE.
Prodajna mjesta:
Regal – impex free shop Podgorica, Tivat
Forza Mare Luxury Hotel and Restaurant
TAZEKS – H.Novi
www.rupice.me
The vineyard was re-grown twice – for the first time in 1970 and secondtime in 2007 when new varieties of grapes were planted - two
autochthonous Montenegrin varieties: vranac and kratošija and two
Italian varieties: genovese and marselan.
During the lifetime of the first owner, until the beginning of 1980, this
vineyard was grown in a traditional ecological way. Wine and brandy
were produced in small quantities and were sold to famous buyers in
small glass 5-liter wine bottles coated with woven branches.
Heiress of this vineyard, while respecting the tradition and
by using the soil, climate and personal emotion for her
ancestors, began the production of DI loza (brandy)
and DIvine (wine) with the signature of her grandfather Milovan Pejović on the label, trying to preserve
the level and mode of production that vineyard of
these characteristics deserves, also trying to satisfy
the most demanding customers of this time with its
packaging.
Initials of the owner’s name make the name of the
brandy, while the owner’s initials and the English
word divine, which means having a nature of a
deity, make the name of the wine which it
certainly deserves.
TRY THE BEST OF MONTENEGRO AND
TAKE WITH YOU ONLY THE BEST FROM
MONTENEGRO
Sales:
Regal – impex free shop Podgorica, Tivat
Forza Mare Luxury Hotel and Restaurant
TAZEKS – H.Novi
www.rupice.me
NAŠA BOGATSTVA  BOTANIČKA BAŠTA U KOLAŠINU
ODBRANA NJENOG
1'$"$
PRIRODE
Razgovarala: Nada Bukilić
Foto: arhiv Botaničke bašte Kolašin i porodice Vincek
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a širokoj terasi nad rascvjetalom
baštom proteže se dobro uhranjeni, žućkasti mačak. Sunča se, lijen i
razmažen, kao da je sultanov. To je Darvin,
mačak mezimac bračnog para Vincek. S
obzirom na njihovu posvećenost biljkama
i prirodi, nije mogao dobiti prikladnije ime.
– Darvine, ručak, zove gospođa Zora, i mačak ulazi u kuću, što je dokaz da je Darvin
vrlo nadaren za jezike. Dok mazi raskošna,
mekodlaka leđa svog mačka, gospodin
Vincek kazuje kako je do njih navraćao nemali broj Engleza.
je prirodom, prirodnim ljepotama i raskošnim biljnim bogatstvom planinske Crne
Gore. Bašta zauzima površinu od 646 metara kvadratnih, a nalazi se na nadmorskoj
visini višoj od 1.018 metara. Izgrađena je
na terenu gdje se susreću masivi Bjelasice
i Sinjajevine. Prirodno, on je pogodan za
planinsku floru, ovdje predstavljenu sa preko 350 vrsta.
Baš kao što posjetioci, fascinirani biljnim
svijetom, opsjedaju Botaničku baštu, tako
i novinari opsjedaju gospodina Vinceka,
ne krijući da ih ponajviše zanima kako se
jedan Slovenac našao među našim gorjem i, ajde što se našao, nego još i ostao
decenijama. Međutim, to što je Vincek
Slovenac manje je važno od činjenice da
je ovaj gospodin, u godinama za poštovanje, i elegantno i dostojanstveno istrajao
u svojoj strasti: sve biljke zaslužuju pažnju,
izučavanje, njegu i održavanje, ali Crna
Gora ima biljni svijet dostojan poštovanja i
ljubavi i to treba svima pokazati i dokazati!
Ovaj veliki cilj, baštom koju njeguju i razvijaju, u cjelosti je ostvaren. Valjda ne postoji
građanin Crne Gore koji ne zna za porodicu Vincek i njihov rad, pa čak i kad od flore
više voli faunu.
Botanička bašta se održava kao privatnojavno dobro i da nije pomoći onih koji
ipak razumiju njen značaj, ne bi mogla opstati samo na entuzijazmu. Gospođa Zora
Marjanović Vincek posebno se raduje planu opštine Kolašin po kome bi trebalo da
se od 2012. do 2016. godine realizuje mnogo toga što će pomoći ekonomski napredak, potpomognuti održivi razvoj i valorizovati sve ekološke vrijednosti kolašinskog
kraja.
rodnu raskoš. Evo primjera: tu, u Trebaljevu,
postoje tri velika, odlična plastenika u kojima bi se lako moglo gajiti cvijeće, koje je
postalo vrlo tražena ‚roba’. Naime, u Crnu
Goru uvezu se ogromne količine različitog
cvijeća, čak i magnolije stižu u Kolašin u
nevjerovatnom broju?! A mi te staklenike
koristimo kao rasadnike drveća, i to drveća
koje je ovdašnje i koje je, dakle, potpuno
otporno i koje se sviklo na ove planinske
i klimatske uslove. Obradovala sam se kad
sam uočila da pojedini ljudi u opštini razumiju ovakve planove i podržavaju ih, iako
je Kolašin grad sa ozbiljnim urbanističkim
nedostacima, pa mora prvo riješiti neke takve prioritete.
Kako je ova priča počela?
– Uvijek mi je zanimljivo kako će Englez reagovati na Darvina. Jedni se dure, nije im
baš pravo, a drugi – brojniji, s neponovljivim engleskim humorom, prihvate i mačka
i njegovo veliko ime.
Gospodin Vincek šturo govori o prošlim
vremenima. Nešto se, možda, zaboravilo,
nešto izaziva tugu pri pominjanju, ali najviše je onog što je već sto puta ispričano pa
mu se ne da gubiti vrijeme na ponavljanja.
Ali, ne zaboravlja da ponudi najljepšu jabukovaču moračkog kraja:
Botanička bašta planinske flore Crne Gore,
koju su u Dulovini (Kolašin), još 1981. godine, formirali Daniel i Vera Vincek i prof. dr
Vukić Pulević, i danas je pravo blago, izvor
ushićenja i mjesto predanog rada velikih
entuzijasta, okvir trajanja njihove fascinaci-
– Mislim da razgovor moramo početi čašicom dobre rakije. To je odlična rakija i ne
razumijem zašto se ne proizvodi u većim
količinama? Svi prave šljivu. Šljiva?! Molim
vas, pa šljive ima svuda po svijetu, a jabukovače baš i nema!
I u pravu je: rakija je kao prosvjetljenje!
– Otišao sam ja u Zagreb i upisao biologiju.
To me zanimalo, to sam volio. Ali, znate, tada – poslije II svjetskog rata, drugi su nam
određivali što ćemo studirati. Mene su poslali u Beograd da izučim spoljnu trgovinu.
Tako je i bilo. Dugo sam živio u Beogradu,
radio, a onda sam zbog nekih glupisti (tuđih!) morao da odem. Došao sam u Crnu
Goru i – ostao! Vi svi znate kakvo bogatstvo
74
imate, ali, istovremeno, svi zaboravljate da
se to bogatstvo mora sačuvati! Zato smo
mi stali u odbranu prirode! Sav naš trud
ima samo taj cilj.
OZBILJAN
POSAO,
OZBILJNA
ZARADA
– Ja sam, priča gospođa Zora, osmislila i napisala nekoliko projekata – upravo da bih
na taj način skrenula pažnju na sve ono što
nam je tu, pred očima, a ne vidimo kako
da ga iskoristimo. Ponekad i ne znamo da
imamo odlične uslove da se ozbiljno pozabavimo ozbiljnim poslom, koji bi nam donio zaradu, a istovremeno sačuvao svu pri-
– Znate, ti plastenici bi napravili čudo za
ovaj grad. U njima bi mogli gajiti toliko traženo cvijeće koje je – gotov proizvod! Jer,
teško je shvatiti zašto Crna Gora izvozi, recimo, debla visokog izraslog drveća? Strašno
je i izgovoriti koliko se stabala u Crnoj Gori
godišnje sasiječe! Zašto, dakle, izvoziti sirovinu kad se mnogo više zarađuje izvozom
gotovih proizvoda, a istovremeno šuma
se sačuva? Ne razumijem, kaže gospodin
Vincek.
E, da, postoje stvari pred kojima i najpametniji zaćute. Naša, tipična saga. Nego, da
se vratimo mi Njenom Veličanstvu Prirodi:
75
HVALI MORE,
(&)*"
%1$/
– Ja sam vam obišao cijelu Crnu Goru, vidio mnogo lijepog, ali ništa nije lijepo kao
crnogorske planine. Imao sam prijatelje koji su me nagovarali da ostanem u primorju.
Ma, ni slučajno!
A koja je planina najljepša?
– Tu imamo isti ukus, počinje gospođa
Vincek.
– Da, nastavlja njen suprug, najljepši su
Komovi! Sa koje god strane da ih posmatraš, na ma koju kotu da dođeš – Komovi
su veličanstveni! Njihova nesaglediva ljepota, sve što na toj planini postoji, raste,
cvjeta, sve je to neoboriv dokaz da je priroda umjetnik bez premca! Zato bih volio
da se posveti više pažnje planinama. Da
se Crna Gora ne ostavlja u slijepom ćošku
Evrope. Potrebni su nam dobri putevi, sigurne veze, ali, prije svega, dobro organizovan avio-prevoz. Montenergo Airlines
radi dobro, ali mora učiniti još mnogo to-
NAPITAK
OD SALEPA
ZORIN RECEPT
Salep je antidijaroik, antitusik, mucilaginozum. Koristi se kod nespecifičnih proliva, kod promuklosti i
nadražajnog kašlja. Posebno je koristan u pedijatriji. U narodnoj medicini poznat je kao afrodizijak.
Krtole (korijeni) salepa dobro se
operu u hladnoj vodi, nanižu se na
konac i popare vrelom vodom (1–2
min). Potom se suše na suncu. Suve
se samelju. Jedna kašičica (od kafe)
salepovog korijena prelije se sa 250
ml mlake vode ili mlijeka i kuva 15
minuta. Zasladi se medom i začini
đumbirom ili cimetom. Nazdravlje!
P. S. Na isti način priprema se i ako
vjerujete u savjete narodne medicine!
76
ga na plasmanu onoga što Crna Gora nudi. Dakle, ciljno i organizovano praviti ture
za sve one bogate penzionere koji imaju i
vremena i želje za putovanjima, ali i druge
zaljubljenike u prirodu, da brzo i lako stižu
u Crnu Goru, gdje mogu posmatrati čitav
niz zanimljivosti. A sve na malom prostoru!
Uzmite, recimo, Izraelce: oni bi rado dolazili
da posmatraju ptice, gljive, ljekovito bilje,
planine uopšte…
– Mi to sigurno znamo, jer kroz našu baštu
prođe i po dvije hiljade posjetilaca kad se,
ovako s proljeća, ona otvori za goste. I, vjerujte, samo oni koji su iz Crne Gore ne pitaju gdje još mogu otići da vide još nešto.
Svi ostali uvijek pitaju da li organizujemo
izlete po planinama, kako da dođu do mjesta gdje rastu rijetke gljive, gdje su staništa
pojedinih ptica, kako doći do planinskih
jezera i rijeka i slično. Tužno je priznati da
Kolašin to nema.
– Sa druge strane, postoji ta, rekao bih, naopaka valorizacija crnogorske divlje ljepote: organizuju se reli vožnje, sa ogromnim
džipovima, po planinama!? Molim vas, pa
to se ne radi nigdje u svijetu, zabranjeno
je, ima barem šest–sedam godina. E, a kod
nas, ona jadna Bjelasica trpi upravo takvo
uništavanje. Ministarstva, Vlada, svi moraju
znati šta se dešava. Slična je situacija i sa
markiranjem i uređenjem staza – primijetio
sam da se daju velika sredstva pojedinim
nevladinim organizacijama da, kao bajagi,
markiraju staze kroz planine! I one to rade.
Nevolja je samo u tome što su te staze davno proučene i obilježene!
KUKURIJEK
NA JAPANSKI
$$.#
DANIJEL VINCEK: Naši gosti su često
zanimljivi ljudi. Svako od njih dođe sa svojom predstavom o tome
šta je priroda, šta su biljke i kako ih
sačuvati. Imate one ’romantičare’,
koji biljku primjećuju samo ako ima
cvijet, kroz pojavnost, boju. Imate
i one koji vole mirisne biljke, ali i
‚praktičare’, koji cijene biljke ako su
u službi zdravlja. Japanci su sasvim
druga priča, bar ovi koji su bili naši
gosti, potom saradnici i sada – prijatelji.
CVIJET NAD
CVJETOVIMA
U čitavom tom izobilju biljaka cvjetnica,
biljaka – prirodnih ljekova, žbunova i drveća, koja je biljka najdraža bračnom paru
Vincek?
– E, tu su nam ukusi različiti, kaže gospođa
Zora. Ja biram jeremičak (daphne blagayana), ima nježni, sitni, bijeli cvijet. Danijel,
kao i dr Vukić Pulević, više vole valeriana
pancicii, odnosno macinu travu, kako se u
narodu zove.
– Ma, čujte, to je teško odabrati: meni su
sve biljke, pogotovu cvjetnice, prekrasne i za mnoge ću naći razlog da baš ona
bude ta najbiljka Crne Gore, dodaje gospodin Vincek. Ali, kako smo se složili sa
Pulevićem, ali i sa drugima, macina trava
EROTICA BOTANICA
DANIJEL VINCEK: Među zanimljive biljke ovih prostora, svakako, spada koprčevina
(Cachrys ferrulacea), dijete Libije i Alžira; raste još samo ovdje kod nas, u Gornjoj
Morači. Pretpostavlja se da su je ovamo prenijeli rimski vojnici, koji su sigurno znali
za njena ljekovita i druga svojstva. Naime, korijen biljke je veoma jak afrodizijak.
Biljka ima sitan list, trajnica je, raste u širinu na velikim visinama i cvjeta svake godine. Doduše, cvijet joj nije atraktivan, ali joj korijen para vrijedi! Taj njen korijen je
debeo i jak, kao muška nadlanica. Kada sam vodio prof. Nadu Kovačević, sa Instituta
Josif Pančić, da vidi koprčevinu, izvukli smo jedan veliki korijen za proučavanje.
Htio sam je slikati sa tim korijenom, a ona je odbila uz obrazloženje: „Ni slučajno!
Zamislite da me studenti vide sa ovim čudom? Šta bi mislili o meni?” Poslije smo se
cio dan smijali.
ZORA MARJANOVIĆ VINCEK: Ima kod nas još sličnih biljaka. Takav je i salep (Orchis
morio), doduše više je ljekovit nego afrodizijak. Moj djed je bio solunac i pričao mi
je da su ih, kada su stigli na Krf, tamo zatečeni francuski ljekari liječili i pokušavali
ojačati i vratiti u život, upravo salepom. Vrlo je ljekovit.
DANIJEL VINCEK: Svakako, ali jeste i afrodizijak, to je veoma poznato na Bliskom istoku. Salep je, kao cvijet, prava atrakcija. Liči na kaćun, koristi se njegov korijen, koji,
kad se usitni i istuca, ima blag, sladunjav ukus.
zadovoljava više kriterijuma: ljekovita vrsta,
raste i cvjeta na velikoj nadmorskoj visini,
a kako je Crna Gora, ipak, pretežno planinska zemlja, onda upravo macina trava izražava njenu pravu prirodu i iskazuje njenu
ljepotu. Pronađena je i prvi put opisana na
planini Komovi, a iz poštovanja prema velikom botaničaru Josifu Pančiću, nosi njegovo ime. Odabrali smo je i za simbol naše
botaničke bašte.
Gledajući ovako ‚nebotanički’, samo na
osnovu izgleda ili boje, najcvijet Crne Gore
je, u stvari, cijela ova bašta! Njen neveliki
prostor, dom je mnogim vrstama, baš kao
što je i sama Crna Gora nevelika zemlja, a
dom raznolikim i raznovrsnim biljkama, od
onih uobičajenih mediteranskih do rijetkih,
koje rastu i opstaju uz ledene vrhove planina.
Daniel i Zora Vincek ponosni su na autohtone vrste, kao i na one endemske, ugrožene i zaštićene, o kojima vode veliku brigu. Znatan broj biljaka u Baštu je unošen
sa Bjelasice, Sinjavine, Komova, Durmitora
i Moračkih planina. Jedan dio je unesen
i sa vrhova primorskih planina Rumije,
Orjena i Lovćena. Prilagodile su se i lijepo
rastu u novom domu. Sve biljne vrste u
Bašti su označene latinskim, a dio i narodnim imenima. Još postoji onih koje nijesu
dovoljno izučene, pa su njihovi nazivi ‚pozajmljeni’ iz literature, uglavnom iz radova:
D. Simonovića, V. Pulevića, R. Lakušića i Č.
Šilića.
.0(
LJUBAVI
Prema riječima Danijela Vinceka, Bašta ima
zadatak da prikaže, sačuva, prikuplja i populariše planinske autohtone vrste Crne
Gore, posebno one ugrožene i zaštićene:
– Uz to, mi moramo djelovati edukativno
u očuvanju genofonda, ali moramo pružiti i osnove za naučna istraživanja mladih
botaničara i biologa. Zato sarađujemo
sa Prirodno-matematičkim fakultetom,
Prirodnjačkim muzejom, sa Zavodom za
zaštitu prirode.
Uostalom, kada smo prije tri decenije osnivali baštu, uz veliku stručnu pomoć dr
Vukića Pulevića, dr Čedomila Šilića, prof.
Toneta Wrabera i drugih, obavezali smo
se da će naša ideja vodilja i krajnji cilj uvijek biti zaštita prirode! Priroda i prirodno
je ono što imamo i što možemo ostaviti
budućim pokoljenjima ili svijetu. Niko od
nas nije ni Mikelanđelo ni Leonardo i svijet nećemo zadužiti slikama. Ali, moramo
za života učiniti sve da sačuvamo, recimo,
rijetku biljku koja je preživjela još od ledenog doba, a sada joj prijeti istrebljenje.
E pa ta biljka, taj rijetko viđeni cvijet, najljepša je slika koju možemo ostaviti svijetu.
Posebnu sreću imao sam u životu što sam
mogao aktivno posvetiti vrijeme, sve ove
godine, svojoj velikoj ljubavi – prirodi!
Kukurijek, cvijet koji cvjeta u rano proljeće i koji je za nas u Crnoj
Gori sasvim ‚običan’ (imamo 4 vrste), uopšte ne raste u Aziji. To je
za Japance nepoznata biljka. Prije
nekoliko godina u našu Baštu došla
je grupa Japanaca i oduševili su se
kukurijekom. Najprije su ga posmatrali i proučavali u vrijeme cvata,
onda su došli sljedeći put da sakupe sjeme. Pokušali su i uspjeli da
ga razviju u Japanu. Nijesu tu stali
već su ga ukrstili sa nekim njihovim
biljkama, radi bolje prilagodljivosti
i otpornosti, i iz tih hibrida stvorili
su nove kukurijeke živopisnih boja.
Sada postoji čitava industrija koja
se bavi isključivo odgajanjem i razmnožavanjem ovih hibridnih sorti
kukurijeka i, naravno, njegovom
prodajom. Pedantni i posvećeni,
naši prijatelji Japanci poslali su nam
album sa fotografijama odnjegovanih kukurijeka. Čekamo ih da ponovo dođu.
E, sad: uporedite Japance sa nama, kojima je kukurijek najobičnija ‚trava’ na svijetu! Kad smo sa
Japancima krenuli u potragu za
kukurijekom, sretnemo jednog prijatelja, Kolašinca. Pozdravi se on sa
nama i pita kuda ćemo. Odgovorim,
a on kaže: „A šta će im kukurijek, to
ni stoka neće da jede?!”.
77
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OUR TREASURES  BOTANICAL GARDEN IN KOLAŠIN
DEFENSE OF HER
MAJESTY THE
NATURE
Interview by: Nada Bukilić
Photo: Archives of the Botanical Garden and Vincek family
'3'',
!
8'&(&
7
&
'G
Botanical Garden of the mountain flora of
Montenegro, which was formed in 1981
in Dulovine, Kolašin by Daniel and Vera
Vincek and prof. dr Vukić Pulević, is to this
day a real treasure, a source of delight and
a place of dedicated work of great enthusiasts, frame of the duration of their fascination with nature, natural beauties and
lavish, floral wealth of the Montenegrin
mountains. Garden occupies an area of
646 square meters and is situated at an
altitude higher than 1018 meters. It was
built on the ground where the massifs of
Bjelasica and Sinjajevina encounter each
other. Naturally, it is suitable for mountain
flora, here represented with over 350 species.
O
n the wide terrace hanging over
the blossoming garden, well
nourished, yellowish tomcat is
stretching. He is sunbathing, sluggish and
spoiled, as if he belongs to the Sultan. That
is Darwin, the favorite tomcat of the Vincek
couple. Given their commitment to plants
and nature, he could not have gotten a
more appropriate name.
- Darwin, lunch, calls Mrs. Zora and the
cat enters the house, which is a proof that
80
Darwin is very gifted for languages. While
cuddling the lavish, soft-coated back of his
tomcat, Mr.Vincek tells how they were visited by quite a few Englishmen.
-I always find it interesting how an
Englishman would react to Darwin. Some
sulk, it is not exactly right by them, while
the others – more numerous, with unique
English humor, accept the cat and his great name.
Just like the visitors, fascinated with the
plant world, besiege the Botanical Garden,
the journalists besiege Mr. Vincek, not hiding the fact that they are mostly interested in how one Slovenian found himself
among our mountains and, not solely found himself, but remained here for decades.
However, the fact that Vincek is Slovenian
is less important than the fact that this
gentleman, in years worthy of respect, with
dignity and grace persisted in his passion:
all plants deserve attention, study, care
and maintenance, but Montenegro has a
flora worthy of respect and love and that
should be shown and proved to everyone!
This great goal has been achieved entirely
with a garden that they nurture and develop. I guess there is no Montenegrin that
has not heard about the Vincek family and
their work, even if he prefers fauna to flora.
How did this story begin?
Mr. Vincek reluctantly talks about the past
times. Something has, perhaps, been forgotten, something causing sorrow upon
mentioning, but most of it he told a hundred times and he is not to waste time on
repeating. However, he does not forget to
offer the most beautiful apple-brandy of
Moraca’s area.
- I think we need to start a conversation
with a glass of good brandy. That is a great brandy and do not understand why it is
not produced in large quantities? Everyone
makes plum brandy. Plum?! Please, there
are plums are everywhere in the world,
and apple-brandy not so much!
And he is right: apple-brandy is like enlightenment!
- I went to Zagreb and enrolled in biology. It interested me, I liked it. But, you
know, then - after the World War II, others
decided what we will study. I was sent to
Belgrade to study foreign trade. And so
it was. I lived in Belgrade for a long time,
worked, and then due to some nonsense (someone else’s!) I had to leave. I came
to Montenegro – and stayed! You know
about the treasure you have, but at the
same time, you all forget that that treasure
needs to be preserved! Therefore we stood
in nature’s defense! All of our efforts have
only that goal.
Botanical Garden is maintained as a private - public good and if it was not for
the help of those who understand its importance, it could not survive solely on
enthusiasm. Mrs. Zora Marjanović Vincek
is especially looking forward to the plan of
Kolašin municipality, according to which
a lot is supposed to be realized from 2012
until 2012, which will help the economic
growth, support sustainable development
and valorize all environmental values of
the Kolašin region.
Darwin, The Cat
PRAISES
THE SEA,
HOLDING ON
TO THE
+02$/
- I toured the whole of Montenegro, I saw
many beautiful things, but nothing is as
beautiful as the mountains of Montenegro.
I had friends who persuaded me to stay at
the seaside. Oh, not a chance!
And that is the most beautiful mountain?
- Here we have the same taste, Mrs. Vincek
begins.
-Yes, her husband continues, Komovi are
the most beautiful! From whichever side
you observe them from, to any elevation you climb - Komovi are magnificent!
Their immeasurable beauty, everything
that exists on that mountain, grows or
blossoms, all that is indisputable evidence
that Nature is a peerless artist! This is why
I would like more attention to be devoted
to the mountains. For Montenegro not to
be left in the blind corner of Europe. We
need good roads, secure connections,
but first and foremost, a well organized air
transport. Montenegro Airlines is working
well, but they must do more regarding
the marketing of what Montenegro has
to offer. Hence, tours need to be made, in
a marketed and organized manner, for all
those wealthy pensioners who have the time and desire to travel, but also for other
nature lovers, to quickly and easily arrive
to Montenegro, where they can observe
a whole range of attractions. And everything in a small area! Take, for example, the
Israelis: they would gladly come to watch
birds, mushrooms, medicinal plants, mountains in general...
- We are sure of that, because two thousand visitors pass through our garden
when we open it for guests in the springtime. And, believe me, only those from
Montenegro do not ask where else they
can go to see something. Other always
ask whether we organize excursions to the
mountains, how to reach the places where
the rare fungi grow, where are the habitats
of certain birds, how to get to the mountain lakes and rivers and so on. It is sad to
admit that Kolašin does not have that.
- On the other hand, there is this, I call
it, an upside down valorization of the
Montenegrin wild beauty: organized rally
rides, with enormous jeeps, on the mountains!? Please, this is not done anywhere
in the world, it has been prohibited for at
least six, seven years. And in our country,
that poor Bjelasica suffers such destruction. Ministries, the Government, everyone must know what is happening. The
situation is similar with the arrangement
and marking of paths - I noticed that substantial resources are being provided for
81
some non-governmental organizations to,
allegedly, mark the trails through the mountains!
And they do it. The trouble is only that these paths have been studied and marked a
long time ago!
THE FLOWER
ABOVE ALL
FLOWERS
Throughout this variety of flowering
plants, plants - natural medicines, shrubs
and trees, what is the most favorite plant
of the Vincek couple?
- Well, here we have different tastes, says
Mrs. Zora. I chose Blagay’s Daphne (daphne blagayana), it has a delicate, small,
white flower. Danijel and dr Vukić Pulević
prefer valeriana pancicii, or valerian, as it is
popularly called.
- Well, listen, it is difficult to choose: I find
all plants, especially floriferous ones, to be
beautiful, and for many of them I will find a
reason to have her be Montenegro’s best
plant, adds Mr. Vincek. But as we agreed
with Pulević and with others as well, valerian satisfies several criteria: medicinal
species, growing and blooming at high
altitudes, and since Montenegro is a predominantly mountainous country, precisely that valerian expresses its true nature
and reflects her beauty. It was found and
EROTICA BOTANICA
DANIJEL VINCEK: Cachrys ferulacea belongs among the interesting plants of this
area, the child of Libya and Algeria, growing here only in Gornja Morača. It is assumed to have been brought here by Roman soldiers, who certainly knew of its medicinal and other characteristics. Namely, the root of the plant is a very powerful
aphrodisiac. The plant is perennial, has a small leaf, and grows in width at high altitudes and blossoms every year. Admittedly, its flower is not that attractive, but its
root is valuable! That root is thick and strong, like the back of a man’s hand. When I
took prof. Nada Kovačević, of the Josif Pančić Institute, to see Cachrys ferulacea, we
extracted one large root for study purposes. I wanted to photograph her with that
root, and she refused, arguing: “Not a chance! Imagine if my students saw me with
this miracle? What would they think of me?” Later on, we laughed about it all day.
ZORA MARJANOVIĆ VINCEK: There are more similar plants in our country. Such is
the green-winged orchid or salep (Orchis morio), although it is more healthful than
an aphrodisiac. My grandfather is from Thessaloniki and he told me that when they
arrived at Corfu, the French doctors there treated them and tried to strengthen and
bring them back to life using the green-winged orchid. It is very healthful.
DANIJEL VINCEK: Certainly, but it is also an aphrodisiac, this is very well known in the
Middle East. The green-winged orchid, as a flower is a real attraction. It looks like the
orchid, and its root is used, when crushed into small pieces it has a mild, sweet taste.
described for the first time on the Komovi
Mountain, and out of respect for the great
botanist Josif Pančić, it bears his name. We
have selected it as the symbol of our botanical garden.
From a non- botanical point of view,
based only on appearance or colors,
Montenegro’s best flower is, actually, this
whole garden! Her smallish space is home
to many species, just as Montenegro itself is a rather small country, and is a home
to vibrant, diverse plants, ranging from
BEVERAGE FROM THE GREENWINGED ORCHID - ZORA’S RECIPE
The green-winged orchid (salep) is an antidiarrhoeal, antitussive, mucilaginosum. It
is used for non-specific diarrhea, hoarseness and irritative coughing. It is particularly
useful in pediatrics. It is known as an aphrodisiac in folk medicine.
Tubers (roots) of the green-winged orchid are washed thoroughly in cold water,
strung together on a thread and steamed with hot water (1 - 2min). Afterwards,
they are left to dry in the sun. When they are dry, they are grinded. One teaspoon
of the green-winged orchid root is poured over 250 ml of lukewarm water or milk
and cooked for 15 minutes. Sweetened with honey and seasoned with ginger or
cinnamon. Cheers!
P.S. It is prepared the same way if you believe in folk medicine advices!
82
common to rare Mediterranean ones,
which grow and survive along the icy mountain peaks.
Daniel i Zora Vincek are proud of the autochthonous species, as well as those
endemic, endangered and protected,
taking major care of them. A significant
number of plants were brought into
the garden from Bjelasica, Sinjajevina,
Komovi, Durmitor and Morača’s mountains. Some of them were brought from the
peaks of coastal mountains Rumija, Orjen
and Lovćen. They have adapted and are
growing nicely in their new home. All plant
species in the Garden are labeled in Latin,
part of them have common names known
among the people. There are still those
that are not sufficiently studied, and their
names are “borrowed” from the literature,
mainly from the works of: D. Simonović, V.
Pulević, R. Lakušić and Č. Šilić.
MORE
THAN LOVE
According to Danijel Vincek, the Garden
has the task to display, preserve, collect
and popularize indigenous mountain species of Montenegro, especially those endangered and protected:
- In addition, we must act educationally
in order to preserve the gene pool, but
we must also provide the basis for scientific research of young botanists and biologists. That is why we cooperate with the
Faculty of Natural Sciences, Natural History
Museum, with the Institute for Nature
Protection. After all, when we founded
the garden three decades ago, with great
expertise help of Vukić Pulević, dr Čedomil
Šilić, prof Tone Wraber and others, we have committed that our guiding principle
and ultimate goal will always be the protection of nature!
Nature and natural is what we have and
what we can leave to future generations or the world. None of us are either
Michelangelo or Leonardo, and we will not
put the world in debt with paintings. But
we must do everything during our lifetime
to preserve, for instance, a rare plant that
has survived since the ice age up to this
era, and is now in threat of extinction. Well,
that plant, the flower seldom seen, is the
most beautiful painting that I, or we, can
leave to the world. I was lucky in life to be
able to actively devote my time, for all these years, to my great love - nature!
HELLEBORE IN A JAPANESE AND OUR WAY
DANIJEL VINCEK: Our guests are often interesting people.
Each of them comes with its notion of what nature is, what
plants are and how to preserve them. You have those “romantics”, who only notice a plant if it has a flower, through
the appearance, color. You have those who love fragrant
plants and “practitioners” who appreciate the plants if they
are in the service of health. The Japanese are an entirely different story, at least those who were our guests, then
associates and now - friends.
om, next time they came to collect the seed. They tried and
succeeded to develop it in Japan.
They did not stop there, they crossed this flower with some
of their plants in order to gain better adaptability and resilience, and from those hybrids they have created new colorful
hellebores. There is now a whole industry that deals exclusively with raising and breeding of these hybrid varieties of
hellebores and of course, its sales. Meticulous and dedicated,
our Japanese friends have sent us a photo album with nurtured hellebores. We are waiting for them to visit us again.
Hellebore, a flower that blossoms in early spring and that
is for us in Montenegro quite “ordinary” (there are 4 types!),
does not grow anywhere in Asia. For the Japanese it is an
unknown plant. A few years ago, a group of Japanese visitors came to our garden and were ecstatic about hellebore.
At first they observed and studied it at the time of its blo-
Now: compare the Japanese with us, to whom hellebore is
the most ordinary grass in the world! When we went looking for hellebores with the Japanese, we met a friend from
Kolašin. He greets us and asks where we are going. I told him
and he replies: “What are they going to do with hellebore,
even livestock won’t eat that?!”
83
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Море в 200м
3 ванных комнаты и одна индивидуальная,
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Парковка
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Кабельное и спутниковое телевидение,
интернет
Zabilježila: Nada Bukilić, Fotografija: Relja Eraković
GALERIJA  MIODRAG ŠĆEPANOVIĆ
%$&.#3
$$.
N
iko nije postao svetac u svom kraju, kaže stara izreka. Ta, uslovno rečeno, omeđenost krajem iz kojeg
potiču, biva, često groteskno, opravdanje
mnogih koji su silno željeli, a nikada se nijesu popeli do vrhova Olimpa da sa muzama
ispiju, u ime zahvalnosti, makar pehar vina.
O bogovima ni slovca! Šćepanović se ne
krije iza izreka, ni kada su tačne. Njegov kraj
nije ni mali ni veliki. Ne krije se ni iza usuda
države u kojoj živi. Samo diletanti traže domovinu u državnom ustrojstvu. On iza sebe i pred sobom ima – skulpture. Skulpture
koje je neprilično objašnjavati i nepristojno
opisivati na stranicama magazina.
O STRPLJENJU
Odrastajući u malom, planinskom gradu,
gdje je najveća pouka iz umjetnosti ona
koju dobijete od nastavnika likovnog vaspitanja, Šćepanović je ipak zarana razumio
pravu prirodu svog bića i, ne odustajući,
išao za svojim nadahnućem. Završio je
Akademiju u Beogradu („Ma, kasno sam
se ja upisao, imao sam čak 25 godina tada”,
kaže) i vratio se u Kolašin.
Od 1983. godine, kada je dobio nagradu
Fakulteta likovnih umjetnosti u Beogradu,
tih i strpljiv i sa kamenom i sa sobom samim, Šćepanović kontinuirano stvara svoje
skulpture, najčešće iz oblutaka koje nalazi
po planini i rječnim obalama. U međuvremenu, izlaže samostalno ili kolektivno, i
njegovo ime i rad ‚ulaze’ u našu spoznaju,
čuvamo ih tu negdje, ali…
Sve je to slično čekanju. Čekanju u kojem
se ćuti. Ćuteći i strpljivo radeći i izlažući,
Miodrag Šćepanović podiže porodicu.
Njegova lijepa djeca, a četvoro ih je, imaju sigurno najnježnijeg oca na svijetu. Na
88
njihovim su policama figurice u veselim
bojama: zečevi, vjeverice, ježevi, medvjedi
i vuci, patuljci, lovci, princeze i vitezovi... Od
žice otac im je napravio figure tananih žena, plesačica ljepotica, i lovaca s kopljima –
oko njih se jasno čuju bubnjevi Afrike. Niko
nema tako vrijedne igračke.
Sa istim strpljenjem gradi kuću – sam.
Zbog kamena kojim je sam ozidao zidove,
zbog te boje podova i zidova, koje je opet
on sam uradio, kuća je živa: ima vene, udara joj srce, pulsiraju pluća, diše. To je dom
u kojem pri svakom otvaranju vrata u sobe
ulazi lijepa namjera, topla želja, dobra nada
i nježna riječ. Djeca rastu nasmijana i srećna. Zanimljivo je koliko je stvarnog razumijevanja u očima ove djece, kao i prirodnog,
jednostavnog i jedinstvenog ponosa na
oca i njegov rad.
Kada su dječaci, igrajući se, nepažnjom
polomili očevu skulpturu (drag, važan rad
sa Akademije, u gipsu), toliko su se izbezumili da je ocu bilo teško išta reći. Umirili su
se tek kada je ‚zakrpio’ skulpturu i vratio je,
koliko se moglo, u prijašnje stanje. Toliko o
dječijem „nerazumijevanju” umjetnosti.
O NAGRADAMA
„Tišinu oko Šćepanovićevog rada ukinula
je nagrada na Jesenjem salonu skulpture
u Parizu”, zabilježio je istoričar umjetnosti
Mladen Lompar. Ukinula je tišinu i ćutanje
i čekanje. „Izdržao sam”, jednostavno kaže
Šćepanović.
Iako je 2003. godine dobio nagradu ULUCG
„Lubarda, Stijović, Milunović”, Šćepanović
je postao u potpunosti ‚naš’ kada je osvojio prvu nagradu za skulpturu – „Pol
Belmondo” na Jesenjem salonu u Parizu,
2006. godine! Mnogo smo se obradovali! Svi! Od publike, likovnih kritičara, pa do
lokalnih političara u kraju. Toliko o našem
razumijevanju umjetnosti i umjetnika.
Povodom ove nagrade, Šćepanović je jednostavno rekao: „Duže od dvadeset godina
dokazujem da to što radim jeste skulptura.
Dokazao sam da takva skulptura nije prevaziđena”.
Inače, još od 2003. godine Šćepanović redovno izlaže na Jesenjem salonu, što je
rijetkost. Ono što ga uvijek obraduje jeste
način postavke i mjesto koje za njegovu
skulpturu biraju u Salonu. Nema sumnje
da bi slično doživio i kada bi svoje skulpture izlagao u Kanu, Nici ili Firenci, gdje ga
uporno pozivaju. „Ima sila koje mi ne daju
otići”, smješka se umjetnik, ne želeći ni da
se zapita: ko je to preči, kada se odlučuje o
afirmaciji i podršci našim umjetnicima? Mir
koji čuvaju njegova nekolebljiva gorštačka
plemenitost i stvaralačka potencija, ne može ni da se zagrebe onim poznatim pritužbama „neshvaćenih umjetnika”. Nema on ni
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ŠĆEPANOVIĆ: „Imate vajare koji ne
umiju da ponove svoje uspjele
skulpture. Ne mogu jer polazna
skulptura, koja se ljudima učinila lijepom, nije original već eho
glasa iz tuđeg bića, replika tuđeg
glasa. Svaka moja skulptura je
prepoznatljiva… Svi poznaju moj
rukopis i znaju da se radi o mojoj
skulpturi, bez obzira na materijal i
format. Znaju jer sam to ja.”
sa njima ništa zajedničko.
Sam i svoj, ide naprijed i priprema se za
izložbu koja će biti organizovana na ljeto.
O ODLASKU
Ako se i buni ili ljuti zbog nečega, Šćepanović
to čini u ime drugih: „Zaprepastio sam se nedavno kada je došao jedan moj kolega vajar da ovdje traži kamen za svoje skulpture.
Brzo su ga uočili, pitali šta radi i – otjerali! Uz
obrazloženje da je to zabranjeno, da se ne
smije! Svašta?! Tjeraju vajara, a ne brane rijeku i kamen od građevinaca, kamenolomaca
i sličnih”.
Na pitanje da li mu je, zbog takvih stvari i
još mnogo čega, padalo na pamet da ode,
živi i stvara negdje drugo, kaže: „Upoznao
sam, odlazeći u inostranstvo, mnoge
umjetnike sa ovih prostora. Među njima
je mnogo, posebno u Francuskoj, onih
koji ne mogu da žive od svoje umjetnosti;
zato redom imaju, ponekad i daleko od
Pariza, svoje firme, farme ili rančeve, gdje
rade da bi uopšte opstali. Ali, zato kad
dođu na Balkan, oni su nešto posebno jer
žive u Francuskoj! Pa su, kao, umjetnici iz
Francuske! Možda bih i otišao negdje, ne
znam, kada bi se od vajarstva dalo živjeti. A
farmu mogu imati i ovdje, blizu Kolašina…”.
90
O UZORIMA
„U mojim skulpturama poneko prepoznaje
uticaj skulptura Rista Stijovića ili sličnost sa
njima. Možda je tako...
Mene fascinira egipatska kultura, njihova
arhitektura i vajarstvo. U Luvru sam proveo više vremena posmatrajući egipatsko
umjetničko čudo nego sve ostalo što se
tamo može vidjeti. Volim kompaktnost,
stilizaciju, odnose masa i monumentalnost
egipatskog vajarstva…
Veći od svih i u svim vremenima je
Mikelanđelo… Njegove skulpture su vrhunac, pojam, smisao i suština umjetnosti
uopšte.”
IZ KATALOGA
Mladen Lompar: „Šćepanović je od samog početka ‚odbio’ ponudu vremena da gradi svoj izraz na antiakademskim uticajima, i krenuo je u pravo prepoznavanje sebe,
u poštovanju tradicije i klasičnih vrijednosti vajarstva… Nema bojazni za njegov rukopis – on jednostavno ostaje isti… Izuzetna skulptorska sigurnost u očiglednim i
doziranim intervencijama i težnja da se ispoštuje prirodno stanje jesu ključna konstanta Šćepanovićevog rada.”
Slobodan Slovinić: „Šćepanović u stvaralačkom postupku ne praktikuje da pravi skice i crtačke predloške. Zapravo, on se prevashodno oslanja na svoje imaginativnomentalne vizije i stvarateljsko-magične ruke koje na volšeban način uspijevaju da
amorfnu, kamenu masu pretoče u tople i harmonizirane skulptorske eksplikate…
Vrlo staložen i izuzetno smiren, Šćepanović ne uzurpira i ne siluje kamenu masu.
On je maksimalno poštuje, nježno miluje i suptilno brusi… I tako se rađaju mnogi
ženski portreti, torza, figure, te asocijativne predstave domaćih i divljih zoomorfnih
egzemplara. Sve su površinski ručno polirane, kako bi do maksimalnog izražaja došli
autentični strukturaliteti i hromatsko bogatstvo odabranog kamena…”
91
GALERRY  MIODRAG ŠĆEPANOVIĆ
PARISIAN,
BUT OURS
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Photo: Relja Eraković
N
obody became a saint in his own
neighborhood, the saying goes.
That enclosure, so to speak, by the
place they originate from often becomes a
grotesque justification of many who strongly wanted and have never climbed the
peaks of Mount Olympus to drink even
cup of wine with the muses, in the name
of gratitude. Not to mention the Gods!
Šćepanović is not hiding behind sayings, even when they are true. His place is
neither small nor big.
There is no hiding behind the destiny of
the state in which he lives. Only dilettantes
are looking for the homeland in the state
organization.
Behind and in before him, he has – sculptures. Sculptures that are improper to
explain and inappropriate to describe on
the pages of a magazine.
ON PATIENCE
Growing up in a small, mountain town,
where the greatest lesson you receive from
art is the one you get from the art teacher,
Šćepanović still understood the real nature of his being very early, and not giving
up, followed his inspiration. He graduated
from the Academy in Belgrade (“Oh, I have
enrolled quite late, I was 25 years old at the
time,” he says) and returned to Kolašin.
Since 1983, when he received an award
from the Faculty of Fine Arts in Belgrade,
quiet and patient and with a stone and
himself, Šćepanović continually creates
his sculptures, mostly of pebbles he finds
in the mountain and river banks. In the
meantime, he has individual or collective
exhibitions, and his name, i.e. his work “in94
vests” in our cognition, we keep them here
somewhere but...
This is all similar to waiting. Silently waiting.
While keeping silent and patiently working and exhibiting, Miodrag Šćepanović
raises a family. His beautiful children, there
are four of them, certainly have the most
gentle father in the world. Their shelves
hold figures in bright colors: rabbits, squirrels, hedgehogs, bears and wolves, dwarves, hunters, knights and princesses. Their
father made figures of delicate women,
from wire, beautiful dancers and hunters
with spears – the drums of Africa can be
clearly heard around them. No one has
such valuable toys.
He is building a house with the same patience – himself. The house is alive because of the stone he used to build the walls,
because of the color of floors and walls,
which he also did himself: it has veins, its
heart is beating, lungs pulsating, and it is
breathing. This is a home in which, upon
every opening of the door, beautiful intention enters the rooms, warm wish, good
hope and gentle word. The children are
growing happy and with smiles on their faces. It is interesting how much real understanding there is in the eyes of these children, as well as natural, simple and unique
pride of a father and his work.
When the boys have, while playing, inadvertently broke his father’s sculpture (dear,
important work with the Academy, in plaster), they were in such a frenzy that it was
hard for their father to say anything. They
calmed down only when he “patched up”
the sculpture and returned it, as much as
possible, to the original state. So much for
children’s lack of understanding of art.
ON REWARDS
Mladen Lompar, an art historian noted:
“Silence around Šćepanović’s work was
broken by the reward at the Autumn Salon
(Salon d’Automne) of sculpture in Paris.” It
broke the quiet and silence. “I endured”,
Šćepanović simply stated.
Although Šćepanović won an award from
ULUCG (Association of Montenegrin Visual
Artists) “Lubarda, Stijović, Milunović”, he
became our own completely when he
won the First prize for a sculpture “Paul
Belmondo” at the Autumn Salon in Paris in
2006! We were very happy! All of us! From
the audience and art critics to local politicians in the neighborhood. So much for our
understanding of art and artists.
Regarding this award, Šćepanović simply
stated: “I have been proving for twenty years that what I do is sculpture. I have proven that this kind of sculpture is not obsolete.”
By the way, since 2003, Šćepanović regu95
When asked if these kinds of things, and
much more, made him think of leaving, living and creating somewhere else, he says:
”While traveling abroad I met many artists
from this region. Among them, especially
in France, are many who cannot live from
their art; so they have, sometimes far away
from Paris, their own companies, farms or
ranches, where they work to survive. But,
when they arrive to the Balkans they are
special because they live in France! So they
are artists from France! Maybe I would leave somewhere, I do not know, if one could
live from sculptures. I can have a farm here, near Kolašin...”
ON ROLE
MODELS
“Some people recognize, in my sculptures, the influence or similarity with the
sculptures of Risto Stijović. Perhaps it is like
that...
larly exhibits at the Autumn Salon, which
is rare. The thing that always rejoices him is
the setting style and the place they chose
for his sculpture in the Salon. He would, undoubtedly, experience something similar if
he would exhibit his sculptures in Cannes,
Nice or Florence, where they have been
persistently inviting him. “There are forces
that prevent me from going”, smiles the artist, not even wanting to ask: who is more
FROM THE CATALOG
Mladen Lompar: “From the beginning, Šćepanović “declined” the offer of time to build his own expression on anti-academic influences, and instead he set off in real self
–recognition; in respecting the tradition and values of classical sculpture... there is
no fear for his handwriting – he simply remains the same... Exquisite sculptural assurance in obvious and proportioned interventions and desire to honor the natural
state are a key constant of Šćepanović’s work.”
Slobodan Slovinić: “In his creative process, Šćepanović does not tend to make
sketches and drawing templates. In fact, he primarily relies on his mental-imaginative visions and creative-magical hands that miraculously manage to transfer the
amorphous, stone mass into warm and harmonized sculptural explications ... Very
calm and exceptionally serene, Šćepanović does not usurp or rape the stone mass.
He respects it to a maximum, gently caresses and subtly grinds...This is how female
portraits, torsos, figure are born, those associative representations of domestic and
wild zoomorphic exemplars. They are all hand-polished at the surface, to obtain the
full expression of genuine structuralities and chromatic richness of selected stone ...”
96
important when deciding on the affirmation and support of our artists? The peace
being kept by his unwavering highlander
generosity and creative potential cannot
even be scratched by those familiar complaints of “misunderstood artists”. He has
nothing in common with them either.
Alone and his own, he moves forward preparing for an exhibition to be organized in
the summer.
ON DEPARTURE
Even if he rebels or angers about something, Šćepanović does it on behalf of
others: “I was stunned recently when one
of my fellow sculptors came here searching for a stone for his sculptures. He was
quickly noticed and questioned about
what he does – and driven away! With
the explanation that it is prohibited, not
allowed! Unbelievable! They are driving
away the sculptor rather than defending a
river and stone from construction workers,
quarryman and similar.”
I am fascinated by Egyptian culture,
their architecture and sculpture.
In Louvre I spent more time
watching the miracle of
Egyptian art, that everything else there. I love compactness, stylization, mass
relations and monumentality of Egyptian sculpture...
Greater than all and in all times is Michelangelo... His sculptures are the culmination, the
notion, substance and the
essence of art in general. “
ECHO OF
SOMEONE ELSE’S BEING
ŠĆEPANOVIĆ: “You have sculptors that cannot reproduce their
successful sculptures. They are unable, because the initial sculpture, which the people found beautiful, is not an original but an echo
of a voice from another being, a replica of someone else’s voice.
Each one of my sculptures is recognizable... Everyone knows my
signature, they know my sculpture, regardless of the material and
format. They know because that is who I am.”
97
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I STARA
DOBRA
RAKIJA
N
U filmu igraju crnogorski glumci srednje
generacije, ali i oni mlađi: Branimir Popović,
Danilo Čelebić, Jelena Simić, Dragan Račić,
Momčilo Otašević…, dajući priči autentičnu mentalitetsku notu, za koju se reditelj
Đurović nada da će biti poseban kvalitet
filma. Uz naše glumce u ekipi filma su i
112
srpski glumci Milica Milša, Rastko Janković,
Peđa Bijelac (vidjeli smo ga kao čarobnjaka
u filmu Hari Poter IV), ruski glumac Gregorij
Pusep, ali i holivudska zvijezda Michael
Madsen! Zajedno, oni čine prvu međunarodnu filmsku ekipu koja učestvuje u
je upravo Michael Madsen, jer nije baš bilo za očekivati da ga vidimo u Crnoj Gori, a
kamoli u našem filmu! No, jednostavnost i
profesionalizam ovog zvijezdama okićenog
holivudskog glumca, i u tih nekoliko dana,
koliko je trajalo snimanje scena u kojima on
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jednom crnogorskom filmu, nakon što je
odnedavno obnovljena crnogorska kinematografija!
Svaka čast svima, ali našu pažnju zaokupio
učestvuje, ostavili su dubok utisak na sve.
Madsen je strpljivo slijedio rediteljeva uputstva, vrlo kooperativno učestvovao u stvaranju situacija i scena i, prijemčivošću i ljubaznošću, zaslužio poštovanje cijele ekipe.
„Prije svega radi samog filma (lijepo je imati u glumačkoj ekipi strance, posebno zvijezde svjetskog glasa), ali i radi iskustva nas
ostalih. To je prilika da glumci na očitom
primjeru vide i dožive rad glumca kojem
su se do tada samo divili, da neposredno
osjete bar dio njegove harizme, konačno
– i da se uporede sa njim, što može biti
dobra smjernica za njihov budući rad. A za
reditelja je to posebno zadovoljstvo, pogotovu kada se desi da se sjajno razumijete”,
kaže Đurović. Istim povodom, Madsen kurtoazno komplimentira Đuroviću tvrdnjom:
„Tarantino i Đurović me najbolje razumiju –
ne stavljaju me u kutiju!”.
On sam bio je fasciniran okolinom Bara i
Ulcinja, arhitekturom starih gradova, kontrastima blagog mediteranskog priobalja i
visokih strmih planina nad njima. „U ovim
pejzažima osjećam i prepoznajem ambijet
filma Rajanova kći. Taj film pamtim i volim i
zbog Roberta Mitchama, mog glumačkog
uzora… Mora da vam je lijepo živjeti ovdje.”
Film je sada u procesu postproostprodukcije i njegovo prikazivaazivanje se očekuje u avgustu,
stu,
na nekom od festivala. Sa
u i
nadom da je Madsenu
Crna Gora, sem ljudi sa
kojima je radio, ostala u srna, necu kao lijepa uspomena,
zivanje.
strpljivo čekamo prikazivanje.
Biće zaista lijepo vidjeti ga kako
og Bara ili
ulazi na velika vrata Starog
…
trči niz ulcinjske stijene…
Michael Madsen je, budući da je kratko
ostao u Crnoj Gori, u svega nekoliko navrata osjetio crnogorsko gostoprimstvo i to
začinjeno rakijom! Uostalom, on je došao
da radi i vrlo savjesno je to obavio, ali se
moralo malo i predahnuti! Baš za vrijeme
jednog od predaha Madsen je sa kolegama pio staru, dobru, domaću lozu: „Uh, ovo
je jače od škotskog viskija!”.
I, ko zna, možda, kad naša kinematinuitet, a Crna
tografija uspostavi kontinuitet,
o kvalitetna,
Gora se prepozna kao
erano skupa
inspirativna i ne pretjerano
destinacija za snimanje filmova, buetati u našim
de sasvim očekivano sretati
vijezde koje
gradovima svjetske zvijezde
jene dobru
vole jednostavnost i cijene
lozu…
Zabilježila: Aida Rastoder
a živopisnim barskim i ulcinjskim
lokacijama, koje su poslužile kao
idealna kulisa za filmsku priču, reditelj Draško Đurović snimio je novi film. As
pik, po scenariju Obrada Nenezića, jeste
melodrama koja tretira devedesete godine minulog vijeka i sva ona iznenađenja
i traume koje su te godine donijele u naš
svijet i u našu svijest, a prelomile se kroz lične živote pojedinaca – kao refleksije našeg
kolektivnog iskustva, sa trenutnim ili dalekosežnim posljedicama.
i nasmije i odobrovolji i razoruža snimateljsku i glumačku ekipu, kao što to učine prave profesionalci i dobromisleće ličnosti. Jer
dok se radi, svi smo u nekakvoj trci, borimo
se i sa vremenom i sa svim drugim predviđenim i nepredviđenim problemima, stalno smo da kažem ‘budni’ i napeti iz bojazni
da nešto ne ode naopako”, kaže reditelj
Đurović. „Tako smo napeto čekali scene sa
Madsonom, a on je učinio da nam to bude najlakši dio posla. I kad nam je čestitao
na izboru rakije, i mi smo povjerovali da je
loza čudo!”
Madsonova uloga u filmu As pik za njega
je, vjerovatno, zanemarljiv biografski detalj,
ali je za sami film i za crnogorski film uopšte značajno pojavljivanje ovakve zvijezde.
%&1$'0
LICE
NEGATIVCA
Michael Madsen je, poput drugih velikih
glumaca, svoj zanat pekao prvo kroz pozorišne uloge. To iskustvo, naslonjeno na
evidentan talenat (i Madsenova sestra je
istaknuta glumica i pjevačica – Virginija
Madsen) i specifičan glumački izraz, učinilo
je od njega – glumca koji suvereno vlada
scenom odnosno ekranom i kada igra manju ulogu, čak i kada igra negativca, a igrao
je priličan broj baš takvih likova. Poštovaoci
filmske umjetnosti pamte ga iz čitavog niza vrlo uspješnih filmova: Thelma & Louise
(gdje mu je partnerka bila neponovljiva Susan Sarandon), Kill Me Again, Doni
Brasco, Kill Bill 1, 2, Reservoar dogs, Free
Willy, James Bond – Die another day…
MEGAFON
Michaelu Madsenu veoma je smetalo što
se Đurović ekipi obraća preko megafona. Činilo mu se da reditelj stalno viče (taj
utisak je pojačavala jezička barijera). Zato
je bio vrlo zadovoljan kad je megafon u
jednom trenutku nestao. Svi su se dali u
p
g Đurović jje baš objašnjavao
j j
potragu.
američkom glumcu da mu je
megafon neophodan jer
je to jedini način da umiri
crnogorsku ekipu, kad
su megafon, konačno,
pronašli. Madsen je tada priznao ono što su
svi već shvatili: on je
sakrio od reditelja taj
mrski predmet…
„Rijetko ko uspije da u tako malo vremena
113
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ATTENTION PLEASE, CAMERA ROLLING  AS PIK!
On the set of As Pik with director of the film Draško Đurović
LANDSCAPES AND
GOOD OLD SCHNAPPS
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O
n the picturesque locations of Bar
and Ulcinj, which served as the
perfect backdrop for the story line, director Draško Djurović made a new
film. As pik, upon the screenplay by Obrad
Nenezić, is a melodrama which deals with
the nineties of the past century and all
those surprises and traumas that those years brought into our world and our consciousness, and broke through the personal
lives of individuals - as reflections of our
collective experience, with current or far
reaching consequences.
Montenegrin actors the middle generation star in this movie, as well as the
younger ones: Branimir Popović, Danilo
Čelebić, Jelena Simić, Dragan Račić,
Momčilo Otašević… providing the story
with an authentic note of mentality, for
which director Djurović hopes will be the
movie’s special quality. Along with our
cast, the film crew includes Serbian actors Milica Milša, Rastko Janković, Peđa
Bijelac (we saw him as a wizard in the movie Harry Potter IV), Russian actor Gregorij
Pusep, and the Hollywood star Michael
Madsen! Together, they form the first international film crew that participates in
a Montenegrin film, following the recent
renewal of Montenegrin cinematography!
Well done to everyone, but our attention is occupied by Michael Madsen,
because it was unexpected to see him
in Montenegro, much less in our film!
However, the simplicity and professionalism of the star-decorated Hollywood actor
made a lasting impression on everyone,
during those few days while the scenes in
which he participates lasted. Madsen patiently followed the directors instructions,
very cooperatively participated in the creation of situations and scenes, with responsiveness and kindness, earned the respect
of the whole crew.
He was fascinated by the surroundings of
Bar and Ulcinj, the architecture of old cities,
contrasts of mild Mediterranean coast and
the high, steep mountains above them: “
I feel and recognize the ambience of the
movie Ryan’s daughter in these landsca-
116
pes. I remember and love that movie because of Robert Mitchum, my acting idol ...
It must be lovely living here. “
Michael Madsen has, given that his stay in
Montenegro was short, in just a few occasions felt Montenegrin hospitality and it
was flavored with schnapps! After all, he
came to work and very conscientiously
did just that, but a little breather was necessary! During one of the breaks, Madsen
drank good, old local grape schnapps
with his colleagues: “Oh, this is stronger
than Scotch Whisky?”
“People rarely manage to, in such a short
while, laugh and appease and disarm the
camera and cast crew, as true professionals
and well-meaning individuals do. Because,
while we are working, we are all in a rush,
fighting with time and with all the other
problems, foreseen and unforeseen, we
are constantly, to say, “awake”, tense and
fearful that something might go wrong, “
says director Djurović. “So we tensely awaited for scenes with Madsen, and he made them the easiest part of the work. And
when he congratulated us on the choice
of schnapps, we too believed that grape
schnapps is a miracle! “
Madsen’s role in the film As pik is probably an insignificant biographical detail for
him, but for the movie itself and for the
Montenegrin film in general, the appearance of such a star in our story is significant.
“Primarily because of the film itself (it is
nice to have foreigners in the cast, particularly world renown stars), but also for
the experience of the rest of us. This is an
opportunity for actors to see an apparent
example and experience the work of the
actor whom they previously only admired,
to feel at least a part of his charisma, ultimately - to compare themselves with him,
which can be a good guideline for their
future work. And it also represents a particular pleasure for the director, especially
if you happen to understand each other
perfectly” Djurović said. On the same occasion, Madsen courteously compliments
Djurović saying: “Tarantino and Djurović
understand me the best – they do not place me in a box!”
The movie is now in the post-production process and its screening is expected
in August, on one of the festivals. We are
eagerly waiting for the screening, hoping
that Madsen has Montenegro, as well as
the people he worked with, in his heart as
a beautiful keepsake. It will be really great
to see him entering the front door of Old
Bar or running down Ulcinj’s rocks ...
And, who knows, perhaps when our cinematography establishes a continuity, and
Montenegro is recognized as a quality,
inspirational and not too expensive destination for filmmaking, it might be quite
expected to meet international stars in our
cities, who love simplicity and appreciate
the good old grape schnapps...
Attractive face
of a villain
Michael Madsen has, like many other major actors, crafted his trade through theater roles first. That experience, leaning
against an obvious talent ( Madsen’s sister
is a prominent singer and actress, Virginia
Madsen) and a specific acting expression,
has made him - the actor that dominates the screen i.e. the stage, even when
he is playing a minor role, or a villain, and
he played a very considerable number of
such characters. The admirers of cinematic art remember him from a number of
highly successful films: Thelma & Louise
(where his partner was the unique Susan
Sarandon), Kill Me Again, Doni Brasco, Kill
Bill 1,2, Reservoir dogs, Free Willy, James
Bond – Die another day… and others.
Loudspeaker
Michael Madsen was very bothered that
Djurović addressed the crew through the
loudspeaker. It seemed to him that the di-
rector is continuously yelling (that impression was reinforced by a language barrier).
Therefore, he was very pleased when the
loudspeaker disappeared at some point.
They all started searching. Djurović was
just explaining to the American actor
that the loudspeaker is necessary because it is the only way to calm down the
Montenegrin team, when the loudspeaker
was finally found. Madsen then admitted
what everyone had already realized: he hid
the hateful object from the director...
117
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Rožaje
Ulica Maršala Tita bb · +382 (0) 51 270 274
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Bar
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www.erstebank.me
PAZI, SNIMA SE!
ODRASTANJE, LJUBAV
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Zabilježila: Aida Rastoder
Fotografija: Aleksandar Jaredić
iz urbane problematike dva istovremeno
ista i različita grada – Titograda i Podgorice.
N
ovi crnogorski film, koji se snima
u dvije etape, ima vrlo nostalgično i simbolično ime – DJEČACI
IZ ULICE MARKSA I ENGELSA. Film režira
Nikola Vukčević, poznati crnogorski reditelj i profesor Filmske režije na FDU Cetinje.
Zanimljivo je da je snimanje filma podijeljeno na zimsku i ljetnju etapu, a ta dvojnost vremena, u stvari, simboliše dva doba
našeg glavnog grada, dva doba u životima
filmskih junaka, odnosno dva lica istog grada i istih ljudi, koji su tokom odrastanja preživjeli i doživjeli mnogo toga.
Nastavak snimanja počeće pred samo ljeto i u ovoj etapi igraće drugi glumci (izuzev pojedinaca) kako bi se dočarao protok
vremena. Biće, dakle, istih junaka, ali sada
dvadesetak godina starijih.
Za očekivati je da film bude završen početkom 2013. godine s obzirom na to da je
montaža snimljenog materijala već počela.
Glumačka podjela je takođe zanimljiva,
pa u filmu igraju i već afirmisani glumci iz
regiona, ali i studenti cetinjske Akademije:
Ana Sofrenović, Nebojša Glogovac, Emir
Hadžihafisbegović, Branimir Popović,
Momčilo Otašević, Branka Stanić i drugi.
hovim intimnim istorijama, o vrijednostima
koje ne prolaze.
Reditelj Vukčević pojašnjava da će njegov
film biti priča o Titogradu i Podgorici, o porodici i odrastanju, o mladim ljudima i nji-
Scenario su napisali dramska spisateljica
Milica Piletić i reditelj Vukčević, na osnovu motiva drame „Instant” poznatog srp-
120
skog pisca i reditelja Đorđa Milosavljevića.
Pozorišnu verziju teksta, pod naslovom
„Instant seksualno vaspitanje”, Vukčević je
režirao 2009. godine za Gradsko pozorište
Podgorica, pa je novi scenario nadgradnja
te priče sa nizom kulturno-socioloških slika
($0(.!$
DOBA:
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Film Dječaci iz ulice Marksa i Engelsa snima se u dva vremenska perioda. Zimski dio
filma vezan je za prošlost porodice koja se
opisuje u priči, a ljetnji za temu koja se tiče sadašnjosti. Na taj način producenti su
željeli da vizuelno i likovno odvoje prošlost
(1991–1993) i vežu je za zimski period, a u
ljetnjem vremenu potenciraju motive sadašnjosti (2008). Radnja filma je vezana za
početak devedesetih godina (kada je nastala i pjesma „Ne brini”, grupe U škripcu),
pa je scenografija prilagođena osobenostima tog vremena (Podgorica je ponovo postala Titograd). Osim Ane Sofrenović, Emira
Hadžihafisbegovića i mlade Branke Stanić
– u ljetnjem dobu, odnosno sadašnjosti, svi
ostali akteri biće bi promijenjeni.
NA BRZIM STAZAMA ISTORIJE
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121
ATTENTION PLEASE, CAMERA ROLLING!
A
ATTEN
By: Aida Rastoder
Photographs: Aleksandar Jaredić
dić
GROWING UP,
LOVE & OTHER
STORIES
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sed on the motives of the drama called
“Instant”, by a famous Serbian writer and
director Djordje Milosavljević. Theatrical
version of the text, entitled “Instant sexual
education,” Vukčević directed in 2009, for
the Podgorica City Theatre, so the new
scenario is an upgrade of that story with a
series of cultural and sociological images
from the urban issues of two, simultaneously, same and different cities - Titograd and
Podgorica.
Continuation of shooting will begin just
before summer and this stage will include
other actors (with the exception of certain
individuals), to depict the passing of time.
Therefore, the characters will be the same,
but now twenty years older.
The film is expected to be completed in
the beginning of 2013, given that the editing of the already recorded material has
already begun.
ON THE FAST
PATHS OF
HISTORY
Explaining the framework of the story, director Vukčević emphasizes that during
the last 20 years history consistently occurred in the Balkans (wars, coups, strikes, ensuring of existence, opposite set of values),
that never cared about the personal histories of young people - first kisses, growing
up and emotional maturity ...
“This film deals with such young people
whose personal / intimate history has no
alternative and whose hopes and desires
are stronger than the circumstances that
separate them, “ Vukčević said. “The story
of the movie, in his words, deals with family and what arises from it in a time of
disintegration.
T
he new Montenegrin movie which
is filmed in two stages, has a very
nostalgic and symbolic name Boys from the Marx and Engels Street. The
film is directed by Nikola Vukčević, famous
Montenegrin director and professor of film
directing at the Faculty of Dramatic Arts in
Cetinje.
Interestingly, the filming of the movie is divided into winter and summer stages, and
124
that duality of time, in fact, symbolizes two
eras of our capital city, two eras in the lives
of movie heroes, i.e. two faces of the same city and same people who have, while
growing up, survived and experienced a
lot.
Cast division is also interesting, and some
renowned actors from the region play in
the movie, as well as the students from
the Academy in Cetinje: Ana Sofrenović,
Nebojša Glogovac, Emir Hadžihafisbegović,
Branimir Popović, Momčilo Otašević, Branka Stanić, and others.
Director Vukčević explains that his film will
be the story of Titograd and Podgorica,
about family and growing up, about young people and their intimate histories,
the values that do not pass.
The screenplay is written by playwright
Milica Piletić and director Vukčević, ba-
The focus is on issues regarding values
and satisfaction of drives and needs, through maturation, which is much faster and
much different from the one they had hoped for. In addition, the story is being built
at the junction of the hard dramatic style
and very comic elements, with a series of
local distinctiveness, containing the spirit
of the universal, stemming from Titograd
as well as from Podgorica.
Momčilo Otašević on a set: “Boys from the Marx and Engels street”
TWO SEASONS:
PAST AND
PRESENT
The movie “Boys from the Marx and Engels
street” is filmed in two time periods.
Winter part of the movie is related to the
past of the family being described in the
story, and the summer part is related to
the topic that concerns the present. In
this way the producers wanted to visually
and artistically separate the past (19911993) and link it to the winter period, while
emphasizing the motives of the present
(2008) in summer time.
The plot is related to the beginning of
90s (when the song “Ne brini” by a band
called “U škripcu” originated), so the stage
design is adapted to the peculiarities of
that period (Podgorica became Titograd
again). Apart from Ana Sofrenović, Emir
Hadžihafisbegović and young Branka Stanić - in the summer season, i.e. the present,
all other actors will be replaced.
125
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EUROSONG 2012
IQ TESTOM
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Fotografije: Duško Miljanić, Dalibor Ševaljević
K
I, kada je pjesma bila završena, čak su i najvjerniji
fanovi i poštovaoci Rambovog djela i lika, nanovo
otkrili zašto ga vole: radi se o čovjeku nesagledive
kreativnosti i umjetniku neuporedive imaginacije.
Dio publike je, međutim, razočaran – to su oni koji ni do sada nijesu razumjeli Rambov stil i opus, i
koji radije slušaju ljubavne i slične tugovanke.
Za pjesmu je, kako to zahtijevaju evrovizijske propozicije, bio neophodan i spot. Produkciju spota, RTCG povjerila je agenciji MAPA iz Podgorice.
Kreativni direktor ovog projekta je Radmila
Vojvodić, a reditelj Miha Knific. U snimanju je
učestvovala brojna ekipa, a povremeno je na setu, sa sve statistima, bilo i po osamdesetak ljudi.
Osnovne ideje bile su da spot mora promovisati
prirodne, odnosno turističke vrijednosti Crne Gore
(spot je sniman u februaru, po ne baš lijepom vremenu, a na atraktivnim lokacijama crnogorskog
primorja), ali i da mora izraziti osnovnu intenciju:
ne smije, kao ni sama pjesma, ni po čemu sličiti
uobičajenom evrovizijskom senzibilitetu! Tako je
nastala „priča” o ovdašnjem čovjeku koji se silno
trudi da „izađe u susret Evropi”, razumijevajući na
svoj način njene uzuse i vrijednosti, i prerađujući
ih onako kako sam on može, a sve sa svojih deset prstiju i jednim magarcem! Magarac je u spotu
jer Rambo kaže da: „Magarac simbolizuje održivi
razvoj – mnogo radi, a malo troši; skroman je, pouzdan.”
No, razumjeli ga ili ne, slagali se sa njim ili ga
smatrali za sasvim pogrešan izbor za Eurosong,
Rambova Euro neuro pjesma svima nam je pokazala da se o Evropi može razmišljati na bezbroj načina, kao i da bezbroj puteva vode pravo u Evropu.
Najbrže oni direktni, ali…
Simpatično je da je magarac, ustvari magarica
– Anči, sa kojom nije bilo ni malo problema pri
snimanju. Odlično se snalazila, ne samo po kotorskim ulicama i na ulcinjskoj plaži – bila je na visini
zadatka čak i u hotelu Splendid! Ni malo je nijesu
zbunili ni bazen, ni ljepotice oko nje, pa čak ni ma-
ada je Rambo Amadeus, Svjetski Kilo Car,
prihvatio da nas predstavlja na Evroviziji,
znali smo unaprijed da ćemo od njega
dobiti samo original! Ali, kakav i na koju temu, e to
nijesmo ni naslućivali!
Rambo je gotovo dva mjeseca radio na pjesmi,
a publika je čekala. Sa nestrpljenjem. Poneko i sa
tremom, jer ljudi imaju različite predstave o tome
šta je i kakva treba biti euro-pjesma. Tim prije što
je Rambo kratko prokomentarisao da se prihvatio
ovog posla da bi „ostao dosljedan sopstvenoj kontroverznosti”. E, baš ta kontroverza je i brinula naš,
inače na svašta svikli, slušalački puk.
128
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seri! Njena uloga dobija na važnosti na samom kraju spota kada pojede sav novac iz
džepa svog već umornog gazde Ramba…
Zato se nadamo da će Rambo biti shvaćen
diljem raspjevane Evrope, jer su komentari spota i pjesme više nego ohrabrujući.
Jedan od zanimljivijih komentara je onaj u
londonskom „Indipendentu” gdje je Rambo
nazvan najintrigantnijim izvođačem na
ovogodišnjem Eurosongu, pa mu je još, uz
izvinjenje britanskom predstavniku, britanski novinar obećao i glas! Najljepši komen-
tar, koji se odlično uklapa u cijelu ovu priču,
jeste da Euro neuro, u stvari nije pjesma već
„test inteligencije”!
Me
Istina je da, ne samo nama, već i Evropi,
nedostaje i nove estetike i nove poetike.
Iako „kontroverze radi” odlazi na Eurosong,
Rambo će otvoriti vrata jednoj novoj, drugačijoj i, svakako, nelicemjernoj poetici, samim tim što se ničim ne udvara navikama i
očekivanjima stare muzičke dame. Jer, ipak
je on Svjetski Kilo Car!
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nd Analysis
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on
Na prvoj polufinalnoj večeri, nastupa naš
Kilo Car, i to prvi. Ne baš sjajne prognoze
evropskih kladionica, ne daju nas zbuniti – mi i dalje vjerujemo da je Evropa baš
tamo gdje je vidi Rambo, tj. da smo svi baš
onamo gdje nas je ova pjesma postavila, sa
svim svojim „izmima”- ponekad nemoćni
pred puritanizmom… snobizmom... nacio-
nalizmom, a tako željni pacifizma, liberalizma, biciklizma…
o
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130
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Montenegro Advertising and Production !(23&'++3+,%#,-#)($.4(-+##(3)!)+#)(-enegro
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SUPPORTED BY
Tržni centar Palazzo
Slovenska obala 4, Budva
Doo. Inter-kin, Cetinje
EUROSONG 2012
WITH AN IQ
TEST TOWARDS
2&0%/
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hen Rambo Amadeus, World
Kilo Emperor, agreed to represent us at Eurovision, we knew
beforehand that we will receive only an original from him! However, of what kind and
on what topic, we have not sensed that!
W
creativity and an artist of incomparable
imagination. Part of the audience was,
however, disappointed – this includes those who have not understood Rambo’s style
and opus before, and who would rather listen to love songs and similar laments.
Rambo has worked on a song for almost
two months, and the audience waited.
With anticipation. Some waited with jitters
because people have different ideas about
what a Euro-song actually is and what it
should be like. Especially since Rambo
briefly commented that he accepted this
job in order to “remain consistent with his
own controversy.” Well, precisely this controversy was worrying our, already accustomed to everything, listening regiment.
Whether they understood him or not,
whether they agree with him or consider him the wrong choice for Eurovision,
Rambo’s song Euro neuro has shown to us
all that Europe can be contemplated in a
myriad of ways, as well as that countless
roads lead straight to Europe. The fastest
ones are those which are direct, however...
When the song was finished, even the
most loyal fans and admirers of Rambo’s
work and image re-discovered why they
love him: this is a man of immeasurable
It was necessary for the song to have
a video clip, as required by Eurovision
propositions. RTCG (Radio Television of
Montenegro) entrusted the production of the video to MAPA agency from
Podgorica. Creative Director of this project
was Radmila Vojvodić, and the Director
was Miha Knifić. Numerous crew members
participated in the shooting of the video,
and there were occasionally up to eighty
people on the set, with all the extras. The
basic ideas were that the video has to
promote the natural and tourist values
of Montenegro (the video was filmed in
February, under unfavorable weather conditions, and at the attractive locations on
the Montenegro coast), but it also must
express basic intention: it must not, like the
song itself, resemble in any way the usual
Eurovision sensibility! Thus was created
the “story” of the local man who is strongly committed to ‘meeting the European
needs”, understanding in his own way its
mores and values, and reworking them
the way he can with his own ten fingers
and a donkey! The donkey found its way
into the video clip, because Rambo says
that:”A donkey symbolizes sustainable development – works a lot and spends little;
he is modest, reliable.”
Photo: Duško Miljanić, Dalibor Ševaljević
134
135
Novi
BMW Serije 3
sm ... nationalism, and so desirous of pacifism, liberalism, cyclism ...
www.bmw-voli.me
We, therefore, hope that Rambo will be understood throughout the playful Europe,
because the comments on the video and
the song are more that encouraging. One
of the more interesting comments is the
one from the London’s “Independent”
where Rambo was named the most intriguing performer at this year’s Eurovision
Song Contest, and the British journalist
even, with apologies to the British representative, promises him a vote! The finest
comment, fitting perfectly into this whole story, is that Euro neuro is actually not a
song but an “IQ test!”
It is interesting that the donkey is actually
a female donkey– Anči that caused no
problems during the shooting. She managed excellently, not solely on the streets
of Kotor and the Ulcinj beach – she lived
up to her job even in the Hotel Splendid!
She was not fazed by the pool, the beautiful women around her, not even by the
massage therapists! Her role gains in importance at the end of the video when she
eats all the money from the pockets of her
already weary master Rambo...
Our Kilo Emperor will be the first performer at the first semi-final evening. Not quite great European bookmaker’s forecasts
do not confuse us – we still believe that
Europe is exactly where Rambo sees it i.e.
that we are all precisely where this song
placed us, with all our ‘isms” – sometimes
powerless before the Puritanism ... snobbi-
The truth is that we and the Europe as
well, lack new aesthetics and new poetry.
Although he is going to Eurosong ‘for the
sake of the controversy”, Rambo will open
the door to a new, different and certainly
non-hypocritical poetics, just by not courting the habits and the expectations of the
old musical lady. Because, after all, he is the
World Kilo Emperor!
ELEGANCIJA ILI SNAGA.
!"#"$%&'()'
%*
*"+'
www.bmw-voli.me
NOVI BMW SERIJE 3.
328i
VOLI Motors, Podgorica, Bulevar Josipa Broza bb 020 445 065, 020 445 066
136
6.4 l/ 100 km 180 kW (245 KS)
Zadovoljstvo
NEOBIČNA NEKA DJECA  FILIP ĆABAK, KANTAUTOR
(!'$'#"00
VELIKOM BICIKLU
Razgovarala: Jelena Suvara
Foto: Dalibor Ševaljević
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ilip je svoj muzički život počeo
u podgoričkom dječijem horu
„Zvjezdice”, zajedno sa mlađim bratom Vladimirom. Zahvaljujući talentu, brzo
su postali solisti i počeli nastupati na brojnim dječijim festivalima. Tako su muzika i
pjesma na velika vrata ušle u njegov djetinji svijet i postale značajan dio života.
Kada si poželio da napišeš prvu pjesmu?
FILIP: Prošle godine sam krenuo na časove
song writinga jer kad sam prerastao dječije
festivale, želio sam pisati sam, ali nijesam
znao kako?! U meni su se preplitala razna
interesovanja, ali posvetio sam se komponovanju. A uz sopstvene kompozicije najbolje idu sopstveni stihovi.
Filip tekstove piše najčešće na engleskom,
a želi naučiti dovoljno dobro i romanske
jezike (španski i francuski) jer su zbog milozvučnosti bliži muzici. Komponuje pop,
140
FILIP: Za mene je to, sigurno, sloboda.
Sloboda da odaberem motiv koji me pokreće (ljubav, život, prijateljstvo…) i sloboda da ga obradim onako kako ga ja vidim i
osjećam. Tu je uzbuđenje, a ohrabrenje se
desi kada se vaša pjesma dopadne i drugima. Recimo, prošle školske godine na
ispitu moja pjesma „Radiance”, u izvođenju
Jovane Jokić, bila je među tri najbolje kompozicije. I sada mi je teško opisati kakvo je
to osjećanje da sam stvorio nešto što drugi
ljudi, ozbiljni i upućeni, prepoznaju kao vrijedno i kvalitetno. Ne radi se tu o ocjeni, niti o uspjehu, već o produženom osjećanju
sreće koju ste sami sebi iskreirali.
A koji je kompozitor, od klasičara, tvoj izbor?
FILIP: Ipak, Šopen. Zbog njega, iako slušam
i pop i r’n’b, rok i haus, u mojim kompozicijama često postoji i jedna romantičarska,
nježna nit, koja mi treba kao spoj sa svim
onim što meni muzika znači.
Koje kompozicije su, trenutno, tvoj ponos?
r’n’b, a odnedavno pravi i aranžmane.
Mnogi tvoji vršnjaci, ali i oni stariji, imaju
problem sa tremom. Kako si ti to prevazišao?
Pitali smo Filipa i gdje tako mlad momak
otkriva inspiraciju, koji su motivi njegovih pjesama i kakve ga to nevolje more
da se mora izraziti kroz stihove i taktove?
FILIP: Imao sam devet godina, a moj brat
osam, kada smo u duetu pjevali na festivalu ,,Zlatna pahulja” u Rožajama. Otpjevali
smo pobjedničku pjesmu (prve nagrade u
sve tri kategorije), što je izuzetno iskustvo
i tako smo se zarazili festivalskim virusom.
Kasnije, na dječijoj Evroviziji u Beogradu
pjevali smo „Neznalicu”, osvojili sedmo mjesto, a po glasovima publike prvo! Mislim da
je trema neminovnost, jer nije lako ni govoriti a kamoli pjevati pred brojnom publikom, Ali kad krene pjesma, trema prođe i
jedino sam svjestan onog dobrog osjećaja
koji me drži sve vrijeme dok sam na sceni.
Doduše, sada imam i sve manje razloga za
tremu – zato što više sviram, a manje pjevam.
FILIP: Ne mora sve biti iz nevolje; često me
dirnu i zaintrigiraju i vrlo lijepe stvari, neke
male ljudske priče, pojedini problemi meni bliskih ljudi, mojih drugova, drugarica.
Neka tuđa pjesma mi da motiv za moju,
neki dobar film mi otvori čitav niz pitanja
na koja želim odgovoriti, notama ili stihom,
ali i sasvim obični razgovori i svakodnevne situacije mogu postati moja inspiracija.
Nekad me ideja i iznenadi: legnem, mrtav
umoran, hoću da se naspavam, ali mi sine
neka ideja i, što ću, ustanem da je zapišem,
da mi „ne pobjegne”. Velika inspiracija ili
uzori su mi grupa Coldplay i mlada kantautorka Emeli Sande, kojoj se zaista divim.
Šta je posebno uzbuđujuće u činu stvaranja pjesme?
FILIP: Prošle godine sam napisao tekst i
kompoziciju za pjesmu „Mali memoari”,
koju je interpretirala Maša Vujadinović na
festivalu „Naša radost” i, priznajem, ponosan sam na to. Objavljena je još jedna moja kompozicija – „Božićna čestitka” (stihovi
Sanje Perić), koju je za Novu godinu izveo
hor „Zvjezdice”. Ta kompozicija je bila moj
poklon horu u kojem sam i sam propjevao.
Međutim, nije lako sa šesnaest stići sve
ovo. Filipov dan liči na radni dan udarnika: školski časovi do podneva, zatim
časovi klavira, kompozicije, probe u dva
hora i sviranje u bendu. Kratki predah
– vikend, vrijeme je za skitnju, druženja i izlaske. Jedno bez drugoga ne ide.
Filipovo društvo ga snažno podržava, posebno oni koji uče u istoj školi i sa kojima
se najbolje i muzički razumije. Sa njima
razmjenjuje ideje, upoređuje stavove, sarađuje. Pored toga, Filip uči svirati gitaru,
ali mu se mnogo sviđaju i bubnjevi. No,
kako to biva sa talentovanom djecom,
Filip ima još jednu veliku ljubav: fotografiju! Otkud to?
FILIP: Bio sam još u vrtiću kada sam u
grupi za darovitu djecu učio slikati i crtati.
Vjerovali ili ne, imao sam šest godina ka-
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:--da sam za svoje crteže dobio dvije prave
pravcate diplome! Ah, kakva je to radost
bila! Jedna je stigla iz Skoplja, a druga čak
iz Moskve! I kasnije sam nešto crtao, bojao.
Mislim da je ta ljubav prema slici ostala zauvijek u meni i otuda interes za fotografiju. Ja se nadam da su te fotografije dobre,
Društvo me uglavnom bodri i hvali moje
fotografije.
Ovaj suptilni mladi čovjek, toliko različit od
dječaka kojima savjesne majke plaše svoje tinejdžere, ipak vjeruje da o njemu više
govori jedna kompozicija ili čak jedna fotografija nego cio ovaj razgovor. Ali, šta da
radimo kad novine ne umiju pjevati? Zato
objavljujemo nekoliko Filipovih fotografija,
pa prosudite sami kakav je naš momak!
Zasada Filip mašta i vrijedno radi. Mora, jer
želi studirati komponovanje u Londonu.
I želi, jednom, u istom gradu osnovati produkcijsku kuću! A znamo da od snova nema jačih pokretača.
FILIP: Ne mogu znati šta će jednom biti,
samo znam šta želim. Pokušavam da učim
od drugih i pametnijih. Dopalo mi se par
mudrosti koje, po meni, otkrivaju najbolji
način da ostvariš snove, da pobijediš sebe
i da se spasiš od neočekivanih obrta. Prva
je: „Život je kao biciklo – da bi se balansirao, moraš nastaviti da se krećeš”, a druga
(ona utješna, rekli bi mi stariji i ciničniji):
„Trenutak kada prestaneš da griješiš jeste
trenutak kada prestaneš da učiš!”.
Eto, tuda se ja negdje tražim i provlačim,
čekajući da odrastem i ozbiljno osvojim
slobodu…
E pa, dragi Filipe, srećno! Nek točkovi tvog
slobodnog bicikla stignu daleko, daleko!
141
UNUSUAL CHILDREN FILIP ĆABAK, SINGER AND SONGWRITER
BOYISH DREAMS
OF A BIG BICYCLE
Interview by: Jelena Suvara, Photo: Dalibor Ševaljević
F
ilip began his musical life in
Podgorica’s children choir “Zvjezdice”,
together with his younger brother
Vladimir. Thanks to their talent they soon
became soloists and began performing at
numerous children’s festivals. Thus, music
and song entered through the front door in
his childlike world and became an important part of his life.
FILIP: Last year I took songwritting classes,
bacause when I outgrew children’s festivals, I wanted to write myself, but did not
know how?! Various interests have intertwined in me, but I have dedicated myself
to composing. And my own verses go best
with my own compositions.
FILIP: For me, that is the freedom. Freedom
to choose a motive that moves me (love,
life, friendship...) and the freedom to process it the way I view it and feel. That is the
excitement, and encouragement happens
when your song is liked by others as well.
For example, during the previous school
year, at the exam, my song “Radiance”, performed by Jovana Jokić, was among the
top three hits. I now find it hard to describe
the feeling that I created something that
other people, serious informed people
recognized as valuable and of good quality. It is not about judgment or success, but
an extended feeling of happiness that you
yourself created.
FILIP: Chopin. Because of him, even
though I listen to pop r’n’b, rock and house,
there is often a romantic, delicate thread in
my compositions, which I need as a fusion
with everything that music means to me.
Which compositions, are currently, your
pride?
Filip mostly writes his lyrics in English, but
he wants to learn Romance languages well
(Spanish and French), because they are
closer to music due to their mellifluence.
He composes pop, r’n’b and arranges since
recently.
Many of your peers, as well as those who
are older, have a problem with stagefright. How did you overcome it?
144
What is particularly exhilarating in the
act of creating a song?
And what is your choice of classic composer?
When did you wish to write a first song?
FILIP: I was nine, and my brother eight
years old, when we sang in duet at a festival ”Zlatna pahulja“ in Rožaje. We sang
the winning song (first prizes in all three
categories), which is a remarkable experience and that is how we got infected with
a festival virus. Afterwards, at children’s
Eurovision in Belgrade, we sang “Neznalica”,
won seventh place and first place by votes
of the audience! I think that stage fright is
inevitable, it is not easy to speak, much less
sing front of a large audience. But when
the song starts, stage fright goes away and
the band Coldplay and young singer Emeli
Sandé, who I really admire.
I am only aware of that good feeling that
has a hold of me the whole time I am on
stage. Admittedly, I now have fewer reasons for stage fright - because I play more
and sing less.
We asked Filip where such a young man
finds his inspiration, what are the motives of his songs and what troubles him
that he has to express himself trough lyrics and beats?
FILIP: Not everything has to be out of trouble; I am often moved and intrigued by
very beautiful things, some small human
stories, some of the problems of people
close to me, my male and female friends.
Someone else’s song motivates me for my
own, a good movie opens up a series of
questions I wish to answer, with notes or
by verse, but also quite ordinary conversations and everyday situations can become
my inspiration. Sometime the idea catches me by surprise: I lay down, very tired, I
want to get some sleep and suddenly an
idea comes to my mind and what can I do,
I get up to write it down so it does not “escape”. Great inspiration or role models are
FILIP: Last year I wrote the lyrics and composition for the song “Mali memoari”, which
was interpreted by Maša Vujadinović at the
festival “Naša Radost” and I admit I’m proud
of it. Another one of my compositions was
published “Božićna čestitka” (lyrics by Sanja
Perić), which the choir “Zvjezdice” performed for New Year’s. This composition
was my gift to the choir in which I started
singing.
However, it is not easy to achieve all
this at sixteen. Filip’s day looks like the
work day of a shock worker: classes until
noon, then piano lessons, compositions
and rehersals in two choirs and playing
in a band. Short breather – weekend,
is a time for walks, socializing and going out. One can not work without the
other. Filip’s friends strongly support
him, especially his school friends with
whom he is in perfect understanding
musically. He exchanges idea with them,
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Filip is learning to play the guitar, but he
also like drums. But, as it usually happens
with gifted children, Filip has another
great love: photography! How come ?
FILIP: I was in still in the kindergarten when
I was, in a group for gifted children, learning to paint and draw. Believe it or not, I
was six years old when I received two real
diplomas for my drawings! What a joy that
was! One came from Skopje, and the other
all the way from Moscow! Later I drew a little, colored. I believe that love of painting
remained in me forever and hence the interest for photography. I hope those photographs are good, otherwise my friends
are lying to me when they are encouraging and praising my footage, hahaha...
This subtle, young man, so different from
boys that conscientious mothers scare
their teenagers with, however, believes
one composition or a photograph speaks
more about him than this whole conversation. But what do we do when the newspaper does not know how to sing? We
will publish a few of Filip’s photographs, so
you can judge what kind of a person is our
young man!
Filip currently works diligently and fantasizes. He has to, because he wants to study
composing in London. He wishes to establish a production company in the same
city! And we know that there is no stronger driving force that dreams.
FILIP: I do not know what is going to happen, I only know what I desire. I am trying
to learn from others, more intelligent ones.
I liked a couple of wise thoughts, which, in
my opinion, reveal the best way to achieve
your dreams, to conquer yourself and to
rescue yourself from unexpected twists.
The first one is: ““Life is like a bicycle - in
order to balance, you must keep moving,”
and the other (the comforting thought,
as the more older and cynical ones would
call it): “The moment you stop making mistakes is the moment when you stop learning!” Well, this is where I am trying to find
myself and crawling through, waiting to
grow up and seriously conquer freedom...
Well, dear Filip, good luck! May the wheels
of your free bicycle take you far, far away.
145
Ministarstvo finansija Crne Gore
Poreska uprava Crne Gore
kosturi nekadašnjih puzavica, iscrnjeli kao nakon
požara.
PRIČAM TI PRIČU
PROLJEĆNI
CVJETOVI
Nada Bukilić
J
oš su planinski vrhovi bijeli i to će tako ostati dugo. Odavde, čini se da su vrhovi blizu.
Čudno je sjesti pred kuću, onako u košulji i
papučama, a oko vas topao dan iz koga vam, s
vremena na vrijeme, sunce namiguje odsjajem sa
nedalekih, zaleđenih planina.
Stara kuća u predgrađu, koju smo kupili zajedno
sa dugačkim, zapuštenim dvorištem iza nje i bašticom naprijed, nije bila ni veća ni ljepša od ostalih
koje su se prodavale, ali se nama ona učinila posebnom. Možda zbog krova, koji je, u cijeloj toj
zapuštenosti, blistao nov i crven, sa staklenim svjetlarnicima na sve četiri strane. Moj muž je, prvog
dana kada smo postali vlasnici kuće i zapuštene
okolice, otvorivši kapiju i još ne ušavši u dvorište,
vrlo ozbiljno i vrlo značajno, rekao: „Dobar dan,
kućo!”.
Ja sam se nasmijala, poželjela i sama dobar dan toj
žućkastoj starici i čak joj se, pred pospanim zatvorenim škurama, s poštovanjem naklonila. Pri tom
su mi poispadale kutijice, čaše i teglice iz visoke
papirne kese i, začudo, nijedna se nije razbila!
Dobar znak!
Oboje
veseli, kao pijani, svečarski
smo otključav a l i vrata naše kuće
i, konačno, zakoračili u naš
mali raj: veliko ogledalo na
desnom zidu i drveni starinski čiviluk u lijevom
uglu, uz vrata, sav su namještaj koji smo naslijedili
od bivših vlasnika; sa obje strane hodnika ređaju
se vrata velikih soba, a naspram ulaznih još jedna
široka vrata sa ustakljenom gornjom polovinom;
kroz ta se vrata izlazi na prostranu terasu sa koje
se da vidjeti cijelo dvorište; zima je prošla i sada
se u dvorištu vide mreže korova, divljeg nara, kopriva i one čudne biljke koju domaćice nazivaju
zeljem; sve to raste u našem novostečenom dvorištu, u čudnoj simbiozi, raspoređeno kao po nekom dogovoru; ne smetajući jedno drugom, vižlja
se i uznosi ka raspamećenom proljećnom suncu;
stepenasta forma tog rasporeda gdje jedna nad
drugom rastu različite biljke, pojačava utisak da tu
ima još skrivenih biljnih vrsta, ali i neka kornjača
sa svojom djecom, a, možda, i zmija; sa obje strane
kuće, uz žičanu ogradu, prepoznaju se krti i truli
To je taj raj!
Od prvog dana pa sve, evo, do juče, mi smo svakodnevno krečili, farbali, doziđivali, pregrađivali,
zakucavali, lakirali, bušili, krpili, lemili…, uživajući u svemu. Mnogo smo ponosni što nas sve to nije
koštalo ni približno onome kako su naši prijatelji
procjenjivali vrijednost rezultata:
– Vidi samo ova divna vrata?
– Kakva vrata? Plakar je predivan! Ko zna pošto je
ovo čudo!?
– Ah, imate divnu, divnu biblioteku! Basnoslovno,
a?
– Mora da su vam zabiberili dobro kad ste kupili
ovu čarobnu trpezariju…
– Ljepši, veći i udobniji krevet nikad nisam vidio!
– Terasa vam vrijedi moga stana!
I tako redom.
Danas ćemo pretresti tavan. Pripremila sam sve što
je potrebno za jedno dobro ribanje. Uh, al’ će da
rade metle!
Blješti sunce, udara u velike prozore kuće preko
puta. Sjedim, čekam muža. Ljenčarim takoreći, a
metla mi u ruci.
Tada me nešto uznemiri. Ni zvuk, ni sjena, nego nešto što liči na njihov sastanak – nešto što
vidiš i čuješ stomakom. Ustadoh, gledah na
sve strane – ne vidjeh ništa! Samo divlji nar,
iždžikljao do visine prozora, udara granom o
otvorena škura, kad god ih povjetarac navede
na njih. To je sve što se dešava u dvorištu.
Začuh nešto drugo: neko korača… čini mi se i da
otvara vrata naše spavaće sobe – poznajem njihov
drveni uzdah…
Danas i ovdje može doći samo moj muž, ali ovo
nije on. Šta sad? Biti hrabra žena i ući? Zvoniti?
Viknuti? Ući sa obje metle pravo u sobu? A da prvo odem do komšija i zamolim za pomoć?
Svašta! Ovo je moja kuća, svaki pedalj joj poznajem kao sopstveno lice! Šta i da je došao neko stran
i nepoznat? Neka je – već ćemo se upoznati. Ko
god da je, objasniće mi šta radi u mojoj kući!
Ohrabrena, krenuh u kuću. Hodnik je bio sasvim
miran, prazan. Iz kuhinje je još mirisalo na kafu.
Vrata su sva redom zatvorena, pa i ona od naše
spavaće sobe.
Ali, eto ga! Opet nešto… Čujem – nešto puca kao
kad se slama suva grančica pod nogom. Opet?!
Sad već nešto lupa! Udara!
Opet pucketa! Evo, mislim:
to neko širokih, velikih
stopala, tromo gazi po…
po… Shvatih: po našem
tavanu!?!
Naoružana metlom,
zakoračih drvenim stepeništem ka tavanu. Škripe
stepenice, podrhtavaju mi koljena, ali ne odustajem: imam oružje, penjem se i
kroz mala, drvena vrata, prvo guram metlu. Vrata
se širom otvoriše, kao da su jedva dočekala da ih
nešto dodirne.
Ništa se ne dešava. Potpuni mir. Kratko se, iz daljine, začu komšijin glas. Koraknuh. Opet ništa.
Usudih se i uđoh pod krov. Pod krovom puno
svjetlosti, toplote i začujuće prijatnog mirisa.
Vrisnuh, jer nešto sa desne strane pade. Od straha ne mogu da dogledam šta se dešava i ko je to
na tavanu. Gledam, ali ne vidim. Zatim zacvrča i
sa druge strane, pa još nešto zapucketa tamo, niže,
pod svjetlarnikom, i ja sve to propratih paničnim
vrištanjem.
***
Još sam vrištala kad su me
zagrlile sigurne ruke mog muža. I
vrištala sam kad sam konačno shvatila šta
vidim pred sobom: stari vlasnici su nam
ostavili čudesnu baštu pod krovom!
Samo, sad sam vrištala od ushićenja: visoke biljke,
dugih, zelenih listova i sa bogatim cvatom, snažno
su se granale ka svjetlarnicima. Pucale su zelene čahure iz kojih su se potom otvarale, široke kao
dlanovi, jarko crvene latice. Kao da gledate ubrzani dokumentarni film o cvijeću. Komadi čahura
su padali na sve strane, a grane biljaka su udarale
u crijep koji im se svojom težinom vraćao natrag
– to je lupalo naizmjenično. Grana hoće van, pomjera crijep; on se malo pridigne, a kad grana ne
sluti, opet padne i pokunji je natrag. Da nije tako
mirno u našem predgrađu, ovo ne bih ni čula.
Ushićenje još traje. Toliko smo oduševljeni da ćemo pozvati goste na večeru – da proslavimo!
„Kako su mogli da zaborave ovo čudesno cvijeće”,
zabrinut je moj dobri muž. Pregledali smo po internetu, ali nismo našli ništa što liči na našu tavansku baštu.
Ja ću sad do prodavnice, po vino i sir. I neću više
da razmišljam zašto smo dobili cvijeće: ostavili su
ga tavanu i crvenom krovu, koji su zbog njega podigli. Toliko su ga voljeli da su ga se radije odrekli
nego odnijeli negdje gdje neće imati neophodne
uslove za rast i cvat. Zahvaliću im – moraju znati
da ćemo ga i mi mnogo voljeti!
Proljeće, ah, proljeće! Kako divno miriše i cvjeta
sve oko nas, čak i na tavanu, iako su blizu, sasvim
blizu, zaleđeni vrhovi planina…
LET ME TELL YOU A STORY
SPRINGTIME
FLOWERS
T
Nada Bukilić
he mountain peaks are still white and it
will remain so for a long time. It seems,
from here, that the peaks are near. It is
strange to sit in front of the house, in a shirt and slippers, with a warm day around
you, out of which the sun winks at
you from time to time with a glare
from the near, icy mountains.
Old house in the suburbs, which
we bought together with a long,
overgrown yard and a rather small
garden in front, was not bigger of
more beautiful than the others
that were on sale, but we found
it special. Maybe because of the
roof, which in this whole neglect,
shone new and red with glass
skylights on all four sides. On our
first day as owners of the house and
dilapidated surroundings, while opening
the gate and not yet entering into the
backyard, my husband very seriously and
significantly said: Good day house!”
I smiles, bid a good day to that yellowish
old lady and even bowed respectfully in
front of the drowsy closed shutters. Thereby
my boxes, glasses and jars from a tall paper bag
all fell out, and surprisingly, nothing broke! A
good sign!
Both joyful, punch-drunk, we festively unlocked
the door of our house, and finally stepped into
our little paradise: large mirror on the right wall
and wooden, old coat hanger in the left corner,
next to the door, is all the furniture that we have inherited from the former owners, on both sides of the corridor are doors of large rooms in a
row one after another, and opposite the entrance
is another wide door with glazed upper half; that
door leads to a spacious terrace with a view of the
whole garden; the winter passed and now you can
see networks of weeds in the yard, wild pomegranates, nettle and those strange plants which housewives call green vegetables; all of that grows in
our newly acquired backyard in strange symbiosis
as assigned by an agreement; not disturbing each
other, it ascends and exalts towards the wild spring
Sun; stepwise form of that arrangement, where
one upon the other grow different plants, reinforces the impression that there are more hidden
plant species and some turtles with their children,
and, perhaps a snake; on both sides of the house,
next to the wire fence, one can recognize brittle
and rotting skeletons of former climbers, blackened as if they were on fire.
This is that heaven!
From the first day until yesterday, we plastered
and painted every day, re-built, reconstructed,
hammered, applied polish, drilled, mended, did
soldering...enjoying everything. We are very proud
that it did not cost us nearly as our friends estimated would be the value of the result:
Just look at this wonderful door?
What door? The closet is beautiful! Who knows
how much this miracle is worth?
Ah, you have a lovely, lovely library! Fabulous, ha?
They must have spiced it up well when you bought this magical dining room
I have never seen a more beautiful, bigger, more
comfortable bed!
You terrace is worth my apartment!
And so on.
Today we will ransack the attic. I have prepared
the essentials for a good scrub. Uh, the booms will
be working!
The Sun is glowing, hitting the large windows of
the house across the street. I am sitting ,waiting
for my husband. Being idle, so to speak, with a
broom in my hand.
Then something disturbed me. Neither sound nor
shade, but something that resembles both of them
together – something you see and hear with your
stomach. I stood up, took a look around me – not
seeing anything! Only the wild pomegranate, that
rose up to the window, hitting its branch on the
open shutters, whenever the breeze lead them that way. This is all that is
happening in the backyard.
I heard something
else: someone’s footsteps....it seemed
that the door of
our bedroom were opening - I
know their
wooden
sigh...
Today
and here
only my
husband
can arrive,
but this is
not him. What
now? To be a
brave woman
and enter? Ring? Yell? Enter with both brooms
straight into the bedroom? Maybe I should go to
the neighbors and ask for help?
ked screaming.
...jer Vaš Dom je Vaša sigurnost i sloboda.
***
...because your home is your security and freedom.
Unbelievable! This is my house, I know every inch
of it like my own face! So what if someone strange and unknown came? Let him be – we will get
to know each other. Whoever it is, he will explain
what he is doing in my house!
I was still screaming when my husband’s safe arms
hugged me. I was screaming when I finally realized what I see before me: previous owners left us
a marvelous garden under the roof! Only now I
was screaming in exultation: tall plants with long,
green leaves and rich blossom branched heavily
toward the skylights. Green cocoons were cracking, from which bright red petals as a broad as
palms opened. As though you are watching an
accelerated documentary about flowers. Pieces of
cocoons were falling all around, and branches were
hitting the roof tile, which was pressing back with
its weight – that is what caused the alternating pounding. The branch wants out, it moves the tile; it
rises a little, and when the branch least expects it,
falls down and bends it back. If it wasn’t so quiet
in our suburb, I would not have heard this.
Encouraged, I moved into the house. The corridor
was very quiet, empty. The kitchen still smelled like coffee. The doors were all closed , even those
from our bedroom.
But, there it is! Again...I hear something – something is crackling like a dry twig breaking under the feet. Again!? Something is pounding now!
Hitting! Crackling again! Here, I think: it is someone slowly treading with wide, large feet on...on...I
realized: in our attic?!
Armed with a broom, I stepped onto the wooden
staircase towards the attic. The stairs are squeaking, my knees are shivering, but I am not giving
up: I have a weapon, climbing and through the
small, wooden door I’m pushing the broom first.
The door opened widely, as if they were looking
forward to being touched.
Excitement is still ongoing. We are so thrilled that
we will invite guests to dinner - to celebrate!
Nothing is happening. Complete serenity. The
neighbor’s voice was heard briefly from afar. I
stepped in. Again nothing.
I am going to the store now, to get wine and cheese. I and will no longer contemplate why we got
the flowers: it was left to the attic and the red roof, that they built for it. They loved it so much
that they preferred to renounce it than take it away
where it would not have the necessary conditions
for growth and bloom. I will thank them – they
must know that we will love it a lot as well!
I dared and entered under the roof. There was a lot
of light under it, warmth and surprisingly pleasant
scent.
I screamed because something on my right fell
down. Fear prevents me from seeing what is going
on and who is in the attic. I am watching, but
cannot see anything. I could hear chirping from
the other side, then something cracked over there,
beneath the skylight, and I followed it with panic-
...потому что Ваш дом - это Ваша безопастность и свобода.
Osiguranje nove generacije. The Insurance of a new generation. Страхование нового поколения.
“How could they forget these wonderful flowers,”
my good husband was concerned. We searched
through the internet, but could not find anything
that looks like our attic garden.
Spring, ah, spring! What a wonderful scent and
bloom all around us, in the attic as well, even though the frozen mountain peaks are close, quite
close...
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ен
CRNOGORSKA KUŽINA
Nahranivši prosjaka, zadovoljna ode ka
planini. Odmakla je dobar dio puta, a za
sobom je još čula blagosiljanje: „Hvala ti,
nevjesta, vazda imala! Hvala ti! Lijepog li
doručka, bože mili! Hvala ti, nevjesta…”
Prođe i cijela godina. Žena se više nije ni
sjećala ovog događaja – malo li prosjaka
mine njihovim selom… Jednog dana, isti
čovjek joj zakuca na vrata:
– Dobar dan, nevjesta, reče.
– Dobra ti sreća, dobri čovječe, odgovori
žena. Koga tražiš?
– Tebe! Došao sam zbog onog doručka koji
si mi prošle godine napravila. Nikad se ljepše i ukusnije ne najedoh! Lutam svijetom,
ali onakav doručak nikad više ne probah.
Htio sam te moliti da mi ga opet napraviš…
Žena se nasmija, pa se odmah lati posla.
U široku šerpu usu malo vode i tri puta toliko varenike (ukupno da bude do litar tako
razrijeđene varenike). Zatim dobar komad
sira (oko 200–300 g, najbolje i mladi i stari sir) izmrvi unutra. Dok se sir topio, žena
je usitnila i dodala u šerpu više od pola kilograma juče ili prekjuče pečenog hljeba
Pripremila: Nada Bukilić
Fotografija: Slaven Vilus
POPARA,
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vako jelo ima svoju priču; neka su
jela nastajala zahvaljujući volji i mašti svojih tvoraca, a neka, bogami,
zahvaljujući nevolji i istoj toj, dobroj, staroj
mašti. Evo jedne takve storije od kužine.
Priča o prosjačkom doručku
U zenitu ljeta seljaci su nekada kosili široke
livade po cio dan. Žene su im spremale jela od ranog jutra i, obično u podne, stizale
158
do kosaca po planini. A za kosioce treba
mnogo dobre i kvalitetne hrane, koja uz
to, mora biti ukusna i kada se ohladi. Jedna
domaćica tako krenu ka kosiocima, namaknuvši na leđa veliku torbu hrane. Samo
što izađe pred kuću, srete prosjaka. Nazva
mu dobar dan, a prosjak otpozdravi pružajući mršavu ruku. No, viđe da žena žuri, pa
odmah spusti ruku i krenu dalje. Neki plemeniti sjaj u očima došljaka ožalosti ženu
i ona se vrati kući. Zovnu prosjaka na do-
ručak. Čovjek, unaprijed zahvalan, sjede na
kameni prag kuće i čekaše.
Znajući da je sve što vrijedi spakovala za
kosce, žena stade da pretura po kredencima i posuđu, tamo i ovamo, i nađe poveći komad sasušenog hljeba i nešto sira na
tanjiru. Učini joj se ružnim da tako nahrani
čovjeka. Zato mu od toga napravi topao,
ukusan doručak.
(domaći obavezno!). Odozgo, kad se hljeb
natopio, dodade još dvije dobre kašike
mladog kajmaka.
Hljeb je upijao tečnost, ona je lagano miješala, a kad se sve lijepo spojilo – jelo je bilo
gotovo!
Žena uze duboki tanjir, usu jelo u njega i
pozva gosta za sto. Dodade i šolju tople
varenike!
Čovjek je jeo toliko slatko i zaneseno, da
mu se i sama domaćica pridruži.
– Mmmm, divno… mmmm, prelijepo, uživao je prosjak.
– Bogami, jeste, čudila se žena i divila samoj sebi.
– A kako se zove ovo jelo?
– Ah, to? To je… Pa… To je popara, izmisli
ime domaćica.
Eto, tako je to bilo, davnog ljeta na jednoj
planini. Da ne bi prosjaka, ne bismo znali
kako da iskoristimo ostatke hljeba, sira, kajmaka…
Ovaj siromaški – prosjački doručak, u stvari, uopšte nije siromašan, naprotiv! Vrlo je
kaloričan i veoma ukusan, posebno ako se
napravi sa kvalitetnim sirom i „dopuni” kajmakom.
A sad šalu i priče na stranu: ovakav doručak
su nekada majke redovno pripremale svojoj djeci, posebno onoj koja su rano ustajala i dugo pješačila do škole. Djeca su jela
poparu sa apetitom, jer je zbilja ukusna, a,
istovremeno, veoma hranljiva, što je omogućavalo da djeca dugo ostanu sita.
Danas popara nije više ono što je bila zbog
prostog razloga – sada rijetko ko peče domaći hljeb! A praviti poparu sa hljebom koji kupujemo – uh, to nije ni za prosjaka!
Popara danas nema ništa sa prosjacima
– eno je, miriše na davna djetinjstva, na
bakinu kužinu, i vrela se puši u dubokim,
drvenim činijama u svakom nacionalnom
restoranu koji makar malo drži do istinske
tradicije.
Kad vas umore skitanja i prehranjivanja
po restoranima koji imitiraju bjelosvjetske
trendove, kad se uželite bakinog krila, kad
vas stane daviti nostalgija, kad vas sjećanja
pritisnu još od ranog jutra – jedite poparu!
Moćni antidepresiv iz naše kužine.
Prijatno!
MONTENEGRIN CUISINE
POPARA,
BEGGARLY
BREAKFAST
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stirred it gently, and when everything
merged nicely - the meal was over!
The woman took a deep plate, poured the
meal into it and invited the guest to the table. She added a cup of warm milk!
- Mmmm, wonderful...mmmm, wonderful,
the beggar enjoyed.
- By God, yes it is, marveled the woman admiring herself.
- And what is this meal called?
- Ah, that? That is....well...That is popara, the
housewife invented the name.
Prepared by: Nada Bukilić, Photography: Slaven Vilus
very meal has its own story; some
meals have been created thanks to
the will and imagination of its creators, and some, indeed, thanks to distress
and the same, good, old imagination. Here
is one of such cuisine stories:
Having fed the beggar, she left towards
the mountain satisfied. She progressed
a good chunk of way, and could still hear
the blessings: “Thank you, bride, may you
always have everything! Thank you! What a
nice breakfast, dear God! Thank you, bride
... “
Story of a beggarly breakfast
At the peak of summer, the farmers used
to mow broad meadows all day long. The
women were preparing their meals from
early morning and usually at noon, arrived to the harvestmen in the mountains.
Mowers need a lot of fine and good quality
food, which in addition, must be delicious
even when it gets cold. One housewife
went towards the mowers putting a large
bag of food on her back. Just as she left
the house, she met a beggar. She bid him
good day and the beggar greeted back
putting forth his skinny hand. However, he
saw that a woman was in a hurry, so he immediately put his hand down and moved
on. Some noble luster in the eyes of the
stranger grieved the woman and she returned home. She called the beggar to
breakfast. A man, thankful in advance, sat
on the stone threshold of the house and
waited.
Knowing that she packed everything worthy for the mowers, women began to dig
through the cupboards and dishes, here
and there, and found a sizable piece of
dried bread and some cheese on a plate. It
seemed unsightly to feed the man in such
a manner. So she made him a warm, delicious breakfast out of that.
160
A whole year has passed. The woman no
longer remembered this event – quite a
few beggars passes through their village...
One day, the same man knocked on her
door:
- Good day, bride, he said.
- Good fortune, good man, the woman replied. Who are you looking for?
- You! I came for the breakfast that you
made me last year. I never ate a more
beautiful and tasty meal! I wonder around
the world, but I never tried a breakfast like
that anymore. So I wanted to plead you to
make it again...
The woman laughed, and immediately
started working.
In a wide pan she poured a little water and
three times as much milk (a total of up
to one liter of diluted milk). Then a good
chunk of cheese (about 200 - 300 g, preferably both young and old cheese) crumbled inside. While the cheese melted, the
woman crumbled more than half a kilo
of baked bread (homemade is required!)
from yesterday or the day before and added it to the pot. When the bread soaked,
she added two more good full spoons of
kajmak on top of it.
The bread absorbed the liquid, she
This is the way it was, one bygone summer
on one mountain. If it was not for the beggar, we would not know how to use the
remnants of bread, cheese, kajmak...
This poor – beggarly breakfast, in fact, is
not poor at all, on the contrary! It is very
caloric and very tasteful, especially if it is
made with good quality cheese and “supplemented” with kajmak.
Joke on the side: mothers used to prepare
a breakfast like this to their children, especially those children that got up early and
had a long walk to school. The children ate
popara with appetite, because it is indeed
delicious, and at the same time very nutritional, which enabled the kids to stay satiated for a long time.
Today, popara is not what it once was, for
a simple reason – nowadays people rarely bake homemade bread! And to make
popara with the bread we buy - uh, it’s
not even for the beggars! Today, popara
has nothing to do with beggars, there it
is, b
is,
beears
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sant from our
our cuisine.
Bon appétit!
OTKRIJTE NEPOZNATU LJEPOTU
SKROVITA
MJESTA U
CRNOJ GORI
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Osmanlija, koji su vjekovima ugrađivali svoju kuturu, arhitekturu i način života u trajanje ovog kraja. Otuda na istom području – i
džamije i crkve i manastiri.
Okolina Plava,
Gusinje, Alipašini
izvori
Visoke Prokletije, odnedavno u statusu nacionalnog parka, nadvisuju cijelu oblast,
uzdižući se do 2530 metara, zbog čega
su i ljeti prekrivene snijegom. Očaraće vas
prelijepe glečerske doline, oivičene kamenitim kosinama. Idealan povod za obilazak
plavsko-gusinjskog kraja jeste ekološko-turistička manifestacija Dani borovnica, kada
se, za avgustovskog sunca, beru borovnice
– još jedan ukras i lijek iz naše prirode.
načajne i neobične lokacije u Crnoj
Gori ne daju se tekstom valjano opisati i predstaviti. Možemo vas samo
uputiti i nagovijestiti uzbudljivost ovih lokacija, ali pravu vrijednost i ljepotu morate
otkriti i doživjeti sami.
Na istočnoj strani naše države, nedaleko od
Plava i Plavskog jezera, u podnožju planina,
nalazi se mala varoš Gusinje. Nad Plavom
i Gusinjem – planine, a na planinama još
jezera: Hridsko i Visitorsko jezero. Do ovih
jezera najljepše je i najuzbudljivije doći pješice (uz kvalitetne vodiče), ali je to moguće
i terenskim vozilima koja sigurno stižu do
samih jezera. Tu su i kraška vrela, a najljepša
među njima su Alipašini izvori i Oko skakavica.
Ovaj kraj poznat je i po kulama stražarnicama iz XVII i XVIII vijeka, po ukusu i mjeri
162
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Na poluostrvu Luštica nalaze se Rose – jedno od najstarijih naselja u Boki Kotorskoj.
U istorijskim spisima, kao Resnium, pominju se još u IV vijeku. Mala luka na jugoistočnoj strani Hercegnovskog zaliva nekada je bila sigurno sklonište za jedrenjake.
Ovdje su, i na kopnu i u podmorju, važna
arheološka nalazišta. Veliki broj ronilaca
dolazi zbog podvodnih arheoloških istra-
živanja i razgledanja davno potonulih brodova. Rose su lako dostupne kopnenim,
ali i morskim putem – turistički brodići iz
Herceg Novog, Tivta i Budve organizovani
su i redovni.
Do Dobreča, takođe na Luštici, može se
doći samo vodenim putem. To je skrivena
uvala na samom ulazu u Boku Kotorsku.
Mikroklima mirne uvale i bogatstvo tipične mediteranske vegetacije daju posebnu draž ovom izolovanom kutku. Plaža na
Dobreču ekološkim kvalitetom zaslužila je
plavu zastavicu.
)9;<
u Ulcinju
Uvala kraj Ulcinja, okružena mirisnom borovom šumom, jedinstvena je ženska plaža. Od maja pa sve do konca oktobra, ovu
plažu koriste isključivo žene. Zbog sumpornih izvora, u najbližem plićaku, ovdašnja morska voda smatra se ljekovitom, a uz
vrelo, južno sunce i mir, i vrlo blagotvornom. Dokazano je da uslovi ženske plaže
pomažu u izlječenju ženskog steriliteta.
Bigovo
Na putu između Tivta i Budve, nedaleko od
Kotora, a daleko od svake gužve i vreve –
nalazi se uvala, duboko uvučena u kopno.
Uvala, ipak, gleda na otvoreno more, što
doprinosi njenoj specifičnosti. Nekada je
tu bila poznata ribarska luka, a danas je privlačna poznavaocima ljekovitog bilja i ljubiteljima kamenih plaža, nedirnute prirode
i ribarskih specijaliteta.
Skadarsko jezero:
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Rijeka Crnojevića je staro urbano jezgro
specifične arhitekture, nastalo u XV vijeku,
kada je vladar Ivan Crnojević preselio prijestonicu sa Žabljaka na brdo Obod i utemeljio utvrđeni Riječki grad. Ovdje su, kasnije,
163
svoje ljetnjikovce imali i pripadnici dinastije Petrović. Rijeka Crnojevića je imala fabriku oružja, u kojoj su očuvane i puške otete
od Turaka, prvu apoteku u Crnoj Gori i, za
ratničku zemlju posebno zanimljivo, manufakturu u kojoj su od riblje krljušti izrađivani biseri… Danas je prepoznatljiva po
restoranima u kojima se služe jedinstveni
tradicionalni specijaliteti.
Dodoši su na rtu, u podnožju Bobije, naselje zbijenog tipa, u slikovitom i sezonski
promjenjivom pejzažu.
Ribarsko mjesto Karuč prepoznaje se po
Kuli svetog Petra i potpuno autentičnoj arhitekturi. Nalazi se na krajnjem sjeveroistoku istoimenog rukavca Skadarskog jezera.
Žabljak Crnojevića
Usred močvarnog polja okruženog vodotocima Morače, Karatune, Šegrtnice i
Sjerave, nalazi se najpoznatiji istorijski spomenik čitavog kraja – Žabljak Crnojevića.
Ovdje su stolovali Crnojevići, dok mjesto
nijesu zauzeli Turci. Ostalo je pod turskom
vlašću sve do Berlinskog kongresa, kada
je vraćeno Crnoj Gori. Žabljak Crnojevića
je opasan moćnim bedemima, a dio njih
je nastao još u vrijeme kada nije postojalo
vatreno oružje. Žabljak Crnojevića, samo
utvrđenje, danas je nenaseljeno, ali je njegovo podgrađe i dalje živo.
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Za sve one koji bi željeli da provedu miran odmor do juna na Primorju ili u centralnom i planinskom dijelu Crne Gore, Nacionalna turistička organizacija Crne Gore,
Montenegro Airlines i crnogorski hotelijeri, napravili su posebne paket aranžmane.
Aranžmani obuhvataju hotelski polupansionski smeštaj i avio-prevoz po izuzetno
atraktivnim cijenama.
Tako je, na primjer, za sedmodnevni aranžman (polupansion i avio-prevoz iz
Beograda i nazad) potrebno izdvojiti od 213 do 396 eura, u zavisnosti od kategorije
hotela za koji se odlučite. U ponudi je i povoljan vikend aranžman u najekskluzivnijim crnogorskim hotelima, sa korišćenjem wellnessa i spa (takođe polupansion i
avio-prevoz iz Beograda) po cijeni od 169 eura po osobi.
Sedmodnevni aranžmani koji obuhvataju druge evropske destinacije sa kojih
Montenegro Airlines ima let, kreću se od 279 eura, a spa vikend aranžmani od 235
eura sa uključenim prevozom. Više informacija na www.montenegro.travel.
Specijalni MICE paket aranžmani podrazumijevaju: avionski prevoz na relaciji
Beograd – Tivat (Podgorica) – Beograd, smještaj i organizaciju sastanaka, seminara,
kongresa i sličnih događaja u skladu sa potrebama i zahtjevima klijenata, u hotelima
visokih kategorija (4* i 5*) u Bečićima i Miločeru.
Za trodnevni MICE paket aranžman, koji uključuje povratnu avionsku kartu, smještaj
na bazi polupansiona, organizaciju poslovnog događaja uz korišćenje sala i svih tehničkih kapaciteta hotela, te niz popusta na wellness, spa i ostale usluge, potrebno
je izdvojiti od 198 do 228 eura po osobi, u hotelima sa 4* (Queen of Montenegro u
Bečićima i Maestral u Miločeru), dok se cijena istog takvog aranžmana u luksuznom
hotelu sa 5* (Splendid Conference & Spa Resort) kreće od 225 do 285 eura po osobi.
Aranžmani važe do 1. maja 2012. godine. Više informacija na www.montenegro.travel.
RESTAURANT
PROVATivat
164
DISCOVER UNKNOWN BEAUTY
HIDDEN
PLACES
IN MONTENEGRO
S
ignificant and unusual locations in
Montenegro cannot be the properly described and presented in
the text. We can just direct you and hint
the excitement of these locations, but the
true value and beauty you must discover
and experience yourself.
Surroundings of
Plav, Gusinje –
Alipaša’s springs
On the eastern side of our country, not far
from Plav and Lake Plav, in the foothills of
the mountains, there is a small town of
Gusinje. Above Plav and Gusinje – the mountains, and on the mountains more lakes:
Hridsko and Visitorsko Lake. The best and
most exciting way to reach these lakes is
on foot (with quality guides), but this is
also possible with off-road vehicles that
safely reach the lakes. There are also karst
springs, and most beautiful among them
are Alipaša’s springs and Skakavica’s Eye
(“Oko Skakavice”).
This area is known for sentry towers, from
the XVII and XVIII century, according to the
taste and criterion of the Ottomans, who
have, for centuries, been building in their culture, architecture and lifestyle in the
duration of this region. Hence, we have
mosques and churches and monasteries
together in the same area.
High mountain of Prokletije, recently declared a national park, stand tall above the
whole area, rising up to 2530 meters, due
to which they are covered with snow even
in summer. You will be captivated by beautiful glacial valleys, bordered by rocky
inclines. Ideal occasion to visit the Plav
- Gusinje region is the eco-tourism manifestation “Days of blueberries”, when the
blueberries are being picked in the August
sun - another ornament and remedy deriving from our nature.
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166
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Rose is situated on the Luštica peninsula
- one of the oldest settlements in the Bay
of Kotor. In historical writings, known as
Resnium, it has also been mentioned in the
IV century. Small harbor on the southeast
side of Herceg-Novi bay was once a safe
haven for sailing ships. There are important
archaeological sites here, both on land and
in the seabed. A large number of divers
arrive here due to underwater archaeological exploration and sightseeing of ships
sunken long ago. Rose is easily accessible
by land, as well as by sea - tourist boats
from Herceg Novi, Tivat and Budva are very
organized and regular.
Dobreč, also in Luštica, can be reached
only by waterway. This is a hidden cove
at the very entrance into the Bay of Kotor.
Microclimate of a quiet, peaceful bay and
the richness of the typical Mediterranean
vegetation, give a special charm to this isolated corner. The beach on Dobreč earned
a blue flag for its environmental quality.
Women’s
?2;?
Bay near Ulcinj, surrounded by fragrant
pine forests is a unique women’s beach.
From May until the end of October, this
beach is used exclusively by women. Due
to the sulfur springs in the nearest shallow,
the local sea water is considered curative,
and with a hot, southern sun, and peace,
also very beneficial. It has been proven
that the conditions of the Women’s beach
help in curing female sterility.
Bigovo
On the way between Budva and Tivat, near
Kotor, and far from any hustle and bustle there is a bay, deep into the land. The bay,
however, overlooks the open sea, which
contributes to its specificity. Formerly a
famous fishing port, today it is appealing
to connoisseurs of medicinal plants and
admirers of rocky beaches, pristine nature
and fish delicacies.
167
Skadar Lake:
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Package arrangements for the preseason
Rijeka Crnojevića is an old urban core of
the specific architecture, built in the XV
century, when the ruler Ivan Crnojević moved the capital from Žabljak on the Obod
hill and established a fortified town of
Rijeka. Later on, members of the Petrović
dynasty had their summer residences here.
Rijeka Crnojevića had a weapons factory
which preserved the guns taken from the
Turks, the first pharmacy in Montenegro,
and particularly interesting for a warrior
country, a manufacture in which pearls
were made out of fish scales ... Today it is
known for restaurants that serve unique
traditional dishes.
Dodoši are at the cape, at the foot of
Bobija, a compact village, in the picturesque and seasonally variable landscape.
Thus, for example, for a seven-day package (half board and air transport from
Belgrade and back) it is necessary to allocate from EUR 213 to EUR 396, depending
on the category of the hotel that you choose. The offer also includes affordable
weekend package at the most exclusive Montenegrin hotels, with the use of the
wellness and spa (also half board and air transport from Belgrade) at a price of EUR
169 per person.
Fishing village Karuč is recognized after the tower of St. Peter and completely
authentic architecture. It is located in the
far northeast of the homonymous estuary
of Lake Skadar.
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In the middle of a swampy field surrounded by watercourses of Morača, Karatuna,
Šegrtnica and Sjerava, lays the most famous historical monument of the entire regi-
For those who would like to spend a quiet holiday until June on the coast or in the
central mountainous region of Montenegro, the National Tourism Organization of
Montenegro, Montenegro Airlines and Montenegrin hoteliers, have prepared special package arrangements. Arrangements include half-board hotel accommodation
and air transport at very attractive prices.
Kvalitetom do vas...
Seven-day arrangements covering other European destinations from which
Montenegro Airlines has a flight, range from EUR 279, and spa weekend packages
from EUR 235 including the transport. More information on www.montenegro.travel.
Special MICE package arrangements include: Transportation on the route Belgrade
- Tivat (Podgorica) - Belgrade, accommodation and organization of meetings, seminars, conferences and similar events in accordance with the requirements and
demands, in high category hotels (4 * and 5 *) in Bečići and Miločer.
For a three-day MICE package, which includes the return flight , accommodation
on half board basis, the organization of a business event with the use of halls and
all technical capacities of the hotel, and a range of discounts on wellness, spa and
other services, one should single out from EUR 198 to EUR 228 per person in 4 *
hotels (“Queen of Montenegro” in Bečići and “Mistral” in Miločer), whereas the price
for the same package at the luxurious 5 * hotel “Splendid Conference & Spa Resort”,
ranges from EUR 225 to EUR 285 per person. Arrangements are valid until May 1st
2012. More information on www.montenegro.travel.
on - Žabljak Crnojevića. Crnojevići resided
here until the place was occupied by the
Turks. It remained under their rule until the
Berlin Congress, when it was returned to
Montenegro. Žabljak Crnojevića is surrounded with powerful bulwarks, and some
of them originated in the time when there
have been no firearms. Žabljak Crnojevića,
only a fortress, is now uninhabited, but its
outskirts are still alive.
PreduzeÉe za proizvodnju, promet i usluge, export-import
Humci 29, Cetinje, Crna Gora
Tel. +382 41 / 238-232, GSM +382 67 504 378
INTERVJU
PROF. POL DIŠMAN, AMERIKANAC PAŠTROVIĆKE KRVI
S
ada, možda, može da se doživi i kao
romantično putovanje kroz prošlost to traganje gospodina Dišmana
za korijenima na crnogorskoj obali. Može
se otkriti i neka, makar poetska pravda, u
tome da umjesto svog đeda Filipa dođe na
prag stare, kamene kuće i rukom dodirne
te oronule zidove i zakorači po kamenim
pločama pred kućom, gledajući modru
pučinu preko koje su, davno, otišla braća
Radović. Pa, ipak, tuga se ne da odagnati.
Iako je veoma malo znao o korijenima svoje majke, Pol Dišman je sa nestrpljenjem i
radošću došao u Crnu Goru i to na poziv
Univerziteta Donja Gorica. Po povratku u
Ameriku, priredio je izložbu fotografija –
svjedočanstava o prirodnim ljepotama i
specifičnoj arhitekturi, Amerikancima sasvim nepoznate, Crne Gore.
Koliko ste znali o Crnoj Gori prije dolaska?
Razgovarala: Nada Bukulić, Fotografije: Pol Dišman
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172
DIŠMAN: Vrlo malo, pa sam morao da pročitam više knjiga. Moj đed je bio iz sela
Drobnići, na obali blizu Reževića. Otišao je
kao petnaestogodišnjak, nikad se nije vratio u Crnu Goru, a umro je prije nego sam
se ja rodio. Ipak, moja majka se trudila da
ne zaboravim porijeklo, pa sam pišući u
školi sastave o drugim zemljama najčešće
pisao o Crnoj Gori i Jugoslaviji. Pred sam
dolazak, imao sam priliku da upoznam
Miodraga Vlahovića, crnogorskog ambasadora u SAD. On me je uputio u neke od
važnijih stvari i, na taj način, pripremio za
prvi susret sa Crnom Gorom.
Da li Vas je intrigirala postojbina Vašeg
đeda?
DIŠMAN: Moj đed je rođen pred kraj devetnaestog vijeka, a otišao je u Ameriku
jer u Drobnićima, i pored zemlje, lijepog
roda voća i maslina, meda i kozjeg sira,
ipak nije moglo da se živi sem siromašno
– jer, nijesu imali sa kim razmijeniti svoja
dobra. Iz doma Toma i Kate Radović prvo
je otišao sin Andrija, za njim i mlađi Miloš
i Filip. Ostavili su u velikom očajanju roditelje, posebno majku, koja je proklinjala i
sudbinu i svog muža što joj djeca odlaze
u bijeli svijet. Slutila je da najmlađeg Filipa
grli posljednji put. Tako je i bilo. Moj đed je
sa broda kojim je krenuo prvo ka Italiji još
jednom vidio obalu svoje domovine, možda i onaj dio gdje mu je bila kuća i – nikada
više.
Njihova kuća je bila na kraju sela Drobnići,
koje gleda na predivni Jadran. Drobnići su
bili najjužnija tačka Austrougarske monarhije na crnogorskoj obali. Za mene je to
magično mjesto: možete jesti narandžu
ubranu sa drveta i gledati svuda oko vas
planinske vrhove pokrivene snijegom.
Bio je to težak život?
DIŠMAN: Naravno, radili su mnogo – od
rudnika pa do kafana i restorana. Filip i
Miloš su otišli na različite strane, a Andrija
se vratio u Crnu Goru. Filip je u partnerstvo ušao sa drugim Crnogorcem, M. L.
Krstovićem i otvorili su The Palace Cafe.
Ali, dešavale su se i lijepe stvari? Ljubavi,
djeca?
DIŠMAN: Da. Jedne subote 1925, dok je
Filip brisao suđe, u Cafe je ušla jedna od
malobrojnih žena u gradu Globu u to vrijeme. Bila je učiteljica u indijanskom rezervatu i odlučila je da sebe časti dobrim ručkom u mjesnom restoranu. Bila je to moja
baba Jessie. Pošto je završila koledž, Jessie
je radila kao učiteljica u različim mjestima
po Teksasu. Već je mislila da će ostarati kao
učiteljica usjedjelica. Voljela je svoj posao,
đake, ali je ubrzo zavoljela i egzotičnog
stranca po imenu Filip. On je imao 31 godinu, ona šest više. Vratili su se u Hereford,
IZ PISMA MAJCI
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(Postoji oglas iz novina iz 1925. i fotografija
na kojoj Filip i Krstović stoje pored magareta, kojem češkaju uši.) Njihov The Palace
Café selio se kako su se selili ljudi – iz rudnika u rudnik, pa su otišli prvo u Majami, pa u
Siperior, i na kraju u Globe (Arizona).
Teško je bilo i onima koji su ostali. Tomo
i Kata više nikada nijesu vidjeli ni Filipa ni
Miloša. Miloš je bio onaj sentimentalniji sin.
Pisao je često pisma kući i slao pakete sa
hranom, odjećom i ćebadima. I Filip je slao
pakete i razglednice. Miloševa pisma su
uvijek bila puna vijesti o životu u Kaliforniji,
o porodici i novostima iz Amerike.
Raspitivao se za svakog pojedinačno iz sela. Uvijek je brinuo za roditelje: da li imaju
dovoljno odjeće, da li im je toplo, imaju li
dovoljno hrane. Vjerovatno znajući šturost
svog brata, uvijek je bio ljubazan da pisma
potpisuje sa Miloš i Filip, iako su živjeli hiljadu milja udaljeni jedan od drugog...
gdje im se rodila kćerka. Dali su joj ime
Phillis, po ocu. Nijesu imali više djece.
Filip je, dakle, svojoj kćeri, a Vašoj majci,
pričao o Crnoj Gori?
DIŠMAN: Naprotiv. Phil nikada nije ništa
rekao o svom jeziku, domovini, ni o svojoj
porodici u Crnoj Gori. Nikada joj nije pričao o svom djetinjstvu, školi, radu na porodičnom imanju. Nikada nije rekao da ima
roditelje, rođake ili braću. Nikada ni riječ o
tome. Jedan od razloga što sam odlučio da
dođem u Crnu Goru jeste i taj da otkrijem
njegove razloge za to.
Vaše impresije kada ste došli u Crnu Goru
po prvi put?
DIŠMAN: Crna Gora je jednostavno predivna! Ministarstvo turizma je reklamira
173
kao „divlju ljepotu” i zaista nijesu pretjerali. Ima planine koje liče na Alpe, doline sa
čokotima grožđa, brze rijeke, bogate, netaknute (i stare) šume, ima fjordove sa skoro
vertikalnim masivima koji streme ka nebu,
a opet svuda plaža do plaže, nadovezane
pod suncem. I sve to u zemlji koja je 55 x
80 milja. Veličanstvenost u malom!
Šta Vas je najviše impresioniralo?
DIŠMAN: Teško je odlučiti šta je ljepše, da li
pejzaži ili ljudi. Crnogorci su visoki, crne kose i malo tamnijeg tena (zbog mediteranskog sunca), i izuzetno lijepi. A tek žene?
Žene imaju dugu crnu kosu, naglašeno duge noge, ten kao bebe i osmijeh koji „ubija”.
Sve su prave slavenske sirene.
Obično ljude koji dođu u Crnu Goru, impresionira mješavina kultura na malom
prostoru. To ste i Vi primijetili, pa se može
mnogo toga vidjeti i na Vašim fotografijama. Međutim, kao profesor ste upoznali i mlade ljude u Crnoj Gori?
DIŠMAN: Pošto sam imao čast da predajem na Univerzitetu Donja Gorica, vrlo sam
impresioniran uspjesima koje je postigla
prva generacija studenata u liderstvu u
biznisu. Osjetio sam veliku želju među studentima da se posvete biznisu i stvaranju
radnih mjesta, kao i njihovu želju da učestvuju u stvaranju nove Crne Gore. Bio sam
vrlo impresioniran mladim ženama i njihovom posvećenošću visokom obrazovanju i
napredovanju.
Jeste li se sprijateljili sa nekim u Crnoj
Gori?
DIŠMAN: Crnogorci su divni prijatelji. Imali
smo sreće, moja žena i ja, što su nas ljudi
prihvatili tako srdačno. Iako smo sada geografski udaljeni, naši novi prijatelji u srcu
su nam. Stalno smo u kontaktu preko interneta.
A rođaci? Jeste li uspostavili kontakt sa
nekim ko zna ili se sjeća Vaših predaka?
DIŠMAN: Kad sam došao, upoznao sam
tetku Evu Radović, koja ima 92 godine, a
vrlo je bistrog uma. Ima dugu srebrnu kosu, prodorne plave oči, lice puno istorije
i imamo isti široki nos. Njen sluh je i dalje
dobar i vrlo je precizna u izražavanju svojih
osjećanja. Rekao sam joj koliko mi je žao
što moja majka nije mogla da dođe i upozna je. Pripremili smo za Evu album sa fotografijama mog đeda i bake, roditelja, sestre
i naših porodica. Dok je listala, plakala je.
Kada bi naišla na fotografiju nekog rođaka,
poljubila bi je. Nije prije toga vidjela fotografiju mog đeda, niti moje majke. U potkrovlju njene kuće još je bilo kutija koje je
moj đed slao sa poklonima iz Amerike, ali
nikada nije poslao svoju sliku. Kada je Eva
poljubila album, srce mi se steglo jer sam
odjednom shvatio porodicu koju su vrijeme i geografska udaljenost razdvojili.
koja boluje od Alchajmera. Sa svakim novim čitanjem, nanovo doživljavam sva prijašnja uzbuđenja. Uzbuđenje što sam vidio
zemlju, našao kuću, upoznao ljude iz porodice moga đeda. Gledam fotografije mjesta koja smo posjetili, porodice koju smo
našli, ljudi koje smo sreli. I zasuze mi oči.
Ponekad i zbog razloga koje ne razumijem.
Kakvi su sada komentari porodice i prijatelja o Crnoj Gori?
DIŠMAN: Većina Amerikanaca nikada nije
čula za Crnu Goru, a oni koji jesu, ne umiju je naći na karti. Ljudima u Americi riječ
Montenegro zvuči španski. Kada bih rekao
kuda putujem, svi bi me pogledali zbu-
njeno, pokušavajući da se sjete gdje bi to
moglo biti. Većina prijatelja je mislila da je
to glavni grad Urugvaja. Drugi su me pitali
da li je to neka republika blizu Belizea. Treći
su mislili da je to neko portugalsko ostrvo,
pored Afrike. Nakon što smo se vratili u
SAD i opisali im naše putovanje i iskustvo,
većina je rekla da bi voljeli da otputuju u
Crnu Goru i vide istorijske i prirodne znamenitosti.
Šta ste probali iz crnogorske kuhinje i šta
Vam se od toga dopalo? Vino, rakija..?
DIŠMAN: Moja žena obožava masline i tokom boravka u Crnoj Gori jela ih je svaki
dan, šest različitih vrsta! Meni se dopalo lo-
kalno voće: smokve, narandže i mandarine.
Tako slatke i ukusne, pune sunčevog sjaja!
Pokušavao sam da pijem domaću rakiju,
a sok od narandži pio sam svakog dana,
kad god sam imao priliku. Dopalo nam se
da jedemo po restoranima duž cijele Boke
Kotorske, gdje je riba odlična, a ambijent
predivan.
Nešto što biste željeli da kažete, a nismo
Vas pitali…
DIŠMAN: Morate dovesti što više gostiju!
Što više ljudi treba da uživa u onome što
Crna Gora nudi. Treba da odu u prirodu, da
vide tu ljepotu i toliku raznolikost pejzaža
koji čine Crnu Goru predivnom.
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Dok smo bili kod Eve, došli smo i do priče
o zajedničkim crtama lica. Pitao sam je da
li ja izgledam kao Crnogorac? Eva je uzela
moju glavu među svoje dlanove, protresla
je i pogledala je pažljivo od čela do brade.
Klimnula je glavom i rekla: „Crnogorac…
ne!”
A onda je napravila pokret preko mojih gustih obrva i dodala: „Paštrović, da!”
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FOTOGRAFIJE
Zbog svega što sam doživio došavši u Crnu
Goru, zbog domovine mog đeda, zbog
svega što jesam i što nijesam uspio da razumijem i shvatim, a najviše radi moje majke, napisao sam knjigu o ovom iskustvu. U
knjizi ima i mnogo fotografija. Čitam majci
174
175
INTERVIEW  PROF. PAUL DISHMAN, AN AMERICAN WITH THE
PASTROVICS’ BLOOD
SUN COLORED
ORANGES
Were you intrigued by your grandfather’s
homeland?
DISHMAN: My grandfather was born before the end of the nineteenth century, and
he went to America, because in Drobnići,
despite the land, beautiful fruit and olives, honey and goat’s cheese, the only
life to be led was poor. They had no one
to exchange their good with. Son Andrija
was the first to leave the home of Tomo
and Kata Radović, and the younger Miloš
and Filip followed. They left their parents
in great despair, especially their mother,
who cursed the destiny and her husband
that her children were leaving to see the
great wide world. She sensed that she was
embracing the youngest one, Filip, for the
last time. And so she was. My grandfather
saw the shore of his homeland once again from the boat headed for Italy, perhaps
watching a part where his house was –
then and never again.
Their house was at the end of the hamlet
of Drobnići, looking over the beautiful
Adriatic. Drobnići was the southernmost
point of the Austro-Hungarian Empire on
the Montenegrin coast. This is a magical
place for me: you can eat an orange picked
from a tree and watch mountain peaks all
around you covered in snow.
Interviewed by: Nada Bukilić, Photo by: Paul Dishman
Was it a hard life?
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N
ow, perhaps, this quest for Mr.
Dishman’s roots on the Mo ntenegrin coast may be experienced as
a romantic journey through the past. One
can detect some, at least poetic justice that
he arrived at the threshold of the old, stone house instead of his grandfather Filip,
touched the dilapidated walls and stepped
onto the stone slabs in front of the house,
watching the blue horizon, across which
Radović brothers left. And yet, grief cannot
be driven away.
Although he knew very little about his
mothers roots, Paul Dishman came to
176
Montenegro with anticipation and joy, at
the invitation of the University of Donja
Gorica. Upon returning to America, he
organized an exhibition of photographs testimonies about the the natural beauties and the specific architecture of, to the
Americans quite uknown, Montenegro.
How much did you know about
Montenegro prior to arrival?
DISHMAN: Very little, so I had to read
multiple books. My grandfather was from
the hamlet of Drobnići, on the coast near
Reževići. He left as a fifteen-year-old, never
returned to Montenegro, and died before I
was born. However, my mother made sure that I did not forget about my heritage,
so while writing essays in school, I mostly
wrote about Montenegro and Yugoslavia.
Before arriving, I had the opportunity
to meet with Miodrag Vlahović, the
Montenegrin Ambassador to the U.S., who
briefed me on some of the most important
things and, in that way, prepared me for
the first meeting with Montenegro.
DISHMAN: Of course, they worked a lot from the mines to the bars and restaurants.
Filip and Miloš went their separate ways,
and Andrija went back to Montenegro.
Filip has entered into a partnership with
another Montenegrin, M. L. Krstović
and opened The Palace Cafe. (There is a
newspaper advertisement from 1925 and
a photograph of Filip and Krstović standing beside a mule, scratching his ears).
Their Palace Café moved as the people
moved – from mine to mine, first they
went to Miami, then Superior, and finally in
Globe, Arizona.
It was hard for those who stayed at home
as well. Tomo and Kata never saw Miloš and
Filip again. Miloš was the more sentimental
of the two. He frequently wrote letters and
sent packages of food, clothes and blankets. Filip also sent packages and postcards. Miloš’s letters were full of news about
his life in California, his family and news in
America. He would ask about everyone in
the village. He was always worried about
his parents, if they had enough clothes,
food, if they are warm enough. Probably
knowing his brother’s terse nature, he was
always kind enough to sign the letters with
“Miloš and Filip” although they lived a thousand miles from each other.0
But, nice things have happened too?
Love, children?
DISHMAN: Yes. One Saturday in 1925, Filip
was cleaning dishes when in walked one
of the few women in Globe at the time.
She was a teacher on the Indian reservation and had decided to treat herself to
a meal at the local diner. It was my grandmother Jessie. After graduation from
college, Jessie worked as a teacher in various places in Texas. She thought that she
would grow old as a teacher-spinster. She
loved her job, the students, but she soon
fell in love with an exotic foreigner by the
name of Filip. He was 31 years old, and
she was six years older. They returned to
Hereford where their daughter was born.
They named her Phyllis after her father.
They did not have any more children.
Filip has, therefore, talked about
Montenegro to his daughter and your
mother?
DISHMAN: On the contrary. Phil never told
her a single thing about his language, his
homeland, or his family in Montenegro. He
never told stories of his childhood, school,
or working on the family farm. He never
mentioned that he had parents, or cousins,
or brothers. He never said a word about
any of it. Part of the reason for my journey
was to come to Montenegro and find out
why.
What impressed you most?
DISHMAN: It is difficult to know which is
more beautiful, the landscape or the people. Montenegrins are tall, with dark hair
and complexion (from the Mediterranean
sun), and are exceedingly handsome. And
the women? The women have long black
hair, accentuated long legs, baby-like complexions and killer smiles. All of them are
the Slavic sirens.
Usually when people who come to
Montenegro, they are impressed with
the mixture of cultures on such a small
area. You have noticed that, and much of
it can be seen on your photos. However,
as a professor, you also met young
people in Montenegro?
DISHMAN: Having the honor of teaching
at University of Donja Gorica, I was very impressed with the accomplishments of the
first generation of students being trained
in business leadership. I sensed great hunger among students to dedicate themselves to business and creating jobs, as well
as contribute toward the building of a new
Montenegro. I was especially impressed
with the young women and their dedication toward higher education and improvement.
Have you made any friends in
Montenegro?
DISHMAN: Montenegrins are wonderful
friends. We were lucky, my wife and I, to
have been so embraced by people. Even
though we are now geographically distant,
our new friends are in our hearts. We stay
in touch through Internet.
Your first impressions when you came to
Montenegro for the first time?
Have you made contact with someone
who knows or remembers your
ancestors?
DISHMAN: Montenegro is simply magnificent. Their Ministry of Tourism markets it
as having “Wild Beauty” and they have not
exaggerated. It has Alp-like mountains,
valleys of grape-filled vineyards, roaring
river rapids, lush, pristine (and primordial)
forests, fjords with almost vertical massifs
that march straight up to the sky, and beach after beach that face into the setting
sun. All of this in a country of 55 per 80 miles across. It’s magnificence in a miniature.
DISHMAN: When I came, I met Aunt Eva
Radović who is 92 years old and very sharp.
She has long silver hair, piercing blue eyes,
a chiseled face full of history, and we share
the same large nose. Her hearing is fine and
she was quite articulate in expressing her
feelings. I told her how sorry I was that my
mother could not come and meet her. We
had made Eva a photo album with pictures
of my grandfather and grandmother, my
parents, sister and our families. She cried
177
while she leafed through. When she would
come across a picture of some relative, she
would kiss it. She had never seen a picture
of my grandfather, much less my mother.
In the attic of her house, she still had large boxes that my grandfather had sent her
filled with gifts from America, but he had
never sent a picture of himself. When Eva
kissed the album, it was heartbreaking as
I suddenly understood a family separated
by time and geographical distance.
WRITTEN ON
THE FACE
As we sat with Eva, the subject of common
physical family traits came up. I asked if I looked like a Montenegrin. Eva grabbed my
head, tilted it, and examined it closely from
the forehead to my chin. She nodded and
said “Montenegrin... no!”
And then she made a movement over my
thick eyebrows and added, “Paštrović, yes!”
MORE THAN A
PHOTOGRAPH
Because of everything I experienced coming to Montenegro, because of my
grandfather’s homeland, because of
everything that I am and what I did not understand and comprehend, I wrote a book
about this experience. The book contains
many photos. I read it to my mother who
has Alzheimer’s. When I re-read the story,
I relive all the previous excitements. The
excitement of seeing the land, finding the
house, meeting my grandfather’s family. I
look at the pictures of the places we went
to, the people we met, the family we fo178
und. I get teary eyed. Sometimes for reasons I do not understand.
What were the comments of your family
and friends about Montenegro?
DISHMAN: Most Americans have never
heard of Montenegro and those who have cannot find it on a map. To people in
the United States, the word Montenegro
sounds Spanish. When I would mention
to people where we were going, they would all get a glazed look while they tried
to remember where it could be. Most of
our friends thought that it was the capital
of Uruguay. Others asked if it was some
republic near Belize. The third thought it
was some Portuguese island off the coast
of Africa. After we returned to the States
and described our travel and experiences,
most said that they would like to travel to
Montenegro and see the historical sites
and natural wonders.
What did you try of Montenegrin cuisine,
and what did you like of it? Wine, rakija?
DISHMAN: My wife loves olives all during the stay in Montenegro she ate them
every day, six different kinds! I liked local
fruits: figs, oranges, and pomegranates. So
sweet and succulent, full of sunshine! I tri-
ed to drink the homemade rakija and orange juice every day, every chance I got. We
loved eating at the restaurants on the Bay
of Kotor, the fish was wonderful and the
ambiance sublime.
Anything you would like to say, that we
did not ask you…
DISHMAN: You must bring as many guests
as possible! More people should enjoy in
what Montenegro has to offer. They should travel the countryside to see the beauty and the immense variety of scenery
that make up the wonderful country of
Montenegro.
FROM A LETTER
TO THE MOTHER
Dear Mother,
When you write, tell me wha
hat
you need. Do you have something
warm to cover yourself with when
you go too beed? Pleasee re
r cei
e ve our
deepest affection. Do not worry
and do no
n t ange
g r your
ge
ou sellf beca
c use
it doess not
n do you an
ny good. Give
i
our greetings to those who do and
those that do not ask about us. We
will always be your sons and we
wish you wel
well,
l,
)
K
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&
(Thee othe
(Th
others
rs tha
thatt are
are her
heree from
from ou
ourr
hills
hil
ls sen
send
d thei
t e r love, too.
oo )
179
ANKONA
PALERMO
KATANIJA
PROLJEΔE / LJETO 2012. GODINE
19804
PROMOTIVNE CIJENE NA SVIM DESTINACIJAMA
MONTENEGRO AIRLINES ZA VAS
+382 20 66 44 11
+382 20 66 44 33
+382 33 45 17 35
KONTAKTI
Direkcija
Head office
Beogradska 10, 81000 Podgorica
Montenegro (Serbia & Montenegro)
++ 382 20 405 500
++ 382 20 405 501
++ 382 20 405 548 fax
e-mail: head.office@mgx.me
Informacije i rezervacije
Booking
++ 382 20 9804
++ 382 20 405 543 fax
e-mail: booking@mgx.me
Komercijalni sektor
Commerce department
++ 382 20 405 533
++ 382 20 405 535 fax
e-mail: commerce@mgx.me
Sektor za marketing
i korporativne komunikacije
Marketing & Corporative
Communications Department
++ 382 20 405 538
++ 382 20 405 537 fax
e-mail: marketing@mgx.me
POSLOVNICE
OFFICES
Beograd / Belgrade
Knez Mihailova 23, 11 000 Beograd
++ 381 11 2621 122
++ 381 11 3036 535
++ 381 11 3036 536
++ 381 11 2181 861 fax
e-mail: office.belgrade@mgx.me
FLOTA
Kotor
Kopenhagen / Copenhagen
Stari grad 320, Zgrada turističkog fakulteta
++ 382 32 304 860
++ 382 32 304 861
++ 382 32 304 864
++ 382 32 304 865 fax
e-mail: office.kotor@mgx.me
Kopenhagen - Quality Air Tours
Adresa: Vester Voldgade 96, 4 sprat
1552 Copenhagen V, Denmark
Telefon: + 45 33 11 33 16
Fax: + 45 33 11 54 55
e-mail: office.copenhagen@mgx.me
DIMENZIJE/DIMENSIONS
Razmah krila / Wing span
Ukupna dužina / Total lenght
Ukupna visina / Total height
Prečnik trupa / Fuselage diameter
Površina krila / Wing area
ŠALTERI NA
AERODROMIMA
AIRPORT OFFICES
PERFORMANSE / PERFORMANCE
Max brzina leta / Max operating speed
Max brzina leta / Max operating speed
Max visina leta / Max operating altitude
FLEET
www.montenegroairlines.com
28.08 m
35.53 m
8.50 m
3.30 m
93.5 m2
92 ft 1.4in
116 ft 6.8 in
27 ft 10.5 in
10 ft 9.92 in
1006.5 sq ft
320 kts CAS
0,77 M
10.668 m
35000 ft
35835 kg
43090 kg
38780 kg
79000 lb
95000 lb
85500 lb
Beč / Vienna
Kaiserstr. 86, 1070 Vienna
++ 43 664 3 111 405
++ 43 179 639 35
e-mail: office.vienna@mgx.me
Cirih / Zurich
Postfach 2419, 8058 Flughafen, Terminal 2
++ 41 43 816 7876
++ 41 43 816 7877
++ 41 43 816 7878
++ 41 43 816 7884 fax
e-mail: office.zurich@mgx.me
Podgorica
++ 382 20 445 105
++ 382 20 445 160 fax
++ 382 20 67 624 524 (GSM)
TEŽINE / WEIGHTS
Max težina bez goriva / Max zero fuel weight
Max težina na polijetanju / Max take-off weight
Max težina na slijetanju / Max landing weight
Tivat
Frankfurt
Terminal 2, halle d, 60547 Frankfurt am Main
++ 49 69 28 23 74
++ 49 69 28 11 76 fax
e-mail: office.frankfurt@mgx.me
Rim / Rome
Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci,
Terminal 2, 00187 Roma
++ 39 06 6595 8661
e-mail: office.rome@mgx.me
Pariz / Paris
140, avenue Champs Elyseés,
75008 Paris
++ 33 1 70 36 19 07
++ 33 1 70 36 19 08 fax
e-mail: office.paris@mgx.me
Podgorica
Slobode 23, 81 000 Podgorica
++ 382 20 664 411
++ 382 20 664 433
++ 382 20 665 291 fax
e-mail: office.podgorica@mgx.me
CONTACTS
www.montenegroairlines.com
London
Grosvenor Gardens House, suite 112/3th floor
35-37 Grosvenor Gardens
London SW1W 0BS, United Kingdom
++ 44 (0) 207 8644 031
++ 44 (0) 207 8644 032
++ 44 (0) 207 8644 033 fax
e-mail: office.london@mgx.me
++ 382 32 670 500
++ 382 32 670 501 fax
++ 382 67 670 500 (GSM)
Beograd
++ 381 11 228 6241
++ 381 11 209 400 (lokal 7302)
Ljubljana
Letališče Brnik, 4210 Brnik
Passenger Service
++ 386 4 2594 252
++ 386 4 2594 245
Moskva / Moscow
Montenegro Airlines
Aerodrom Domodedovo, kancelarija 3.57
Tel: + 74 95 28 715 25
Fax: + 74 95 28 715 26
e-mail: office.moscow@mgx.me
SPOLJNE DIMENZIJE / EXTERNAL DIMENSIONS
Razmah krila / Wingspan
Ukupna dužina / Length Overall
Ukupna visina / Height Overall
Razmah horizontalnog stabilizatora / Horizontal Stabilizer Span
Širina trupa / Fuselage Width
Visina trupa / Fuselage Height
94ft 3in
126ft 10in
34ft 7in
39ft 8in
9ft 11in
11ft 0in
28.72m
38.65m
10.55m
12.08m
3.01m
3.35m
UNUTRAŠNJE DIMENZIJE / INTERNAL DIMENSIONS
Dužina putničke kabine / Cabin Length
Širina putničke kabine / Cabin Width
Visina putničke kabine / Cabin Height
Širina prolaza između sjedišta / Aisle Width
Širina sjedišta / Seat Width
92ft 5in
9ft 0in
6ft 7in
19.75in
18.25in
28.17m
2.74m
2.00m
0.50m
0.46m
94 ft 3 in
(28.72 m)
Moskva / Moscow
Montenegro Airlines
Kadesevskaja nabereznaja, br.6/1/2 str. 1.
Tel: +7 499 230 16 73
e-mail: office.moscow@mgx.me
39 ft 8 in
(12.08 m)
Budva
Slovenska obala bb, 86 000 Budva
++ 382 33 451 735
++ 382 33 456 244
++ 382 33 454 900 fax
e-mail: office.budva@mgx.me
184
Niš
Montenegro Airlines Niš
ul. Vazduhoplovaca 24
18000 Niš
tel/fax +381 18 4 583 336
185
Destinacije
LJETO 2012.
Destinations
Destinacije
SUMMER 2012
Destinations
LJETO 2012.
SUMMER 2012
NAUTIČKE MILJE
NAUTIC MILES
KM
Flight time
Trajanje leta
212
337
392
624
36
54
213
437
1123
330
451
497
393
809
2078
610
834
919
40
80
180
85
90
110
CHARTER FLIGHTS
NAUTIČKE MILJE
NAUTIC MILES
KM
Flight time
Trajanje leta
(min)
(min)
PODGORICA
PODGORICA
BEOGRAD/BELGRADE
BEČ/VIENNA
FRANKFURT
LJUBLJANA
RIM/ROME
CIRIH/ZURICH
PARIZ/PARIS
LONDON
NIŠ
KOPENHAGEN
169
431
786
401
353
660
954
960
200
900
313
798
1456
743
654
1222
1764
1776
365,2
1625
38
65
115
60
60
105
140
155
35
160
190
1058
352
1959
40
190
BARI
NAPOLI
BRINDIZI (BRINDISI)
ISTANBUL (ISTANBUL)
PETROGRAD/ST. PETERSBURG
ANKONA
PALERMO
KATANIJA
TIVAT
BEOGRAD/BELGRADE
MOSKVA/MOSCOW
Dragi putnici,
Dear passengers,
Molimo poštovane putnike da kontaktiraju Montenegro Airlines
Booking službu (++ 382 20 19804), naša predstavništva ili ovlašćene putničke agencije radi detaljnih informacija o letovima.
Please contact Montenegro Airlines central booking service on tel. +382 20 9804, our Branch Offices or authorised
travel agents for flight details.
S poštovanjem,
Montenegro Airlines Komercijalni sektor
www.montenegroairlines.com
186
Best regards,
men
Montenegro Airlines Commercial Department
Na osnovu interline ugovora sa brojnim avio-kompanijama u svijetu,
Based on interline agreements with numerous airlines in the world, you can
kod nas možete kupiti kartu za neku od sledećih destinacija:
buy tickets to some of the following destinations in Montenegro Airlines offices:
iz/from Frankfurt:
Atlanta / Detroit / Chicago / Los Angeles / Miami / New York / Houston / Washinton / Dallas / Singapore / Manila
Kuala Lumpur / Sydney / Toronto / Montreal / Tokyo / Osaka / Rio de Janeiro / Buenos Aires / Caracas / Mexico City
iz/from Rome:
Boston / Miami / Chicago / New York / Washington / Toronto / Beijing
iz/from Wienna:
Toronto / Montreal / Delhi / Beijing / Bangkok / Sydney / Melbourne
187