Vaš besplatan primjerak Your complimentary copy
Transcription
Vaš besplatan primjerak Your complimentary copy
L je to 2 0 1 2 . B roj 30 / S ummer 2012 N o 30 Va š b e s p l a t a n p r i m j e ra k Your compl imenta r y copy Sadržaj / Contents 32 42 104 Susret predsjednika avio kompanija iz ex-Yu����������������10 Regionalna saradnja- put ka prevazilazenju krize Montenegro Airlines leti u London�����������������������������������14 Ovog ljeta London je centar svijeta Neobična iskustva – Ronilac�������������������������������������������32 Bliže od Maldiva Intervju - Dedduh, iz Who See Klape���������������������������42 Meštri ceremonija sami pišu tekstove… Podgoričko vrelo ljeto������������������������������������������������������56 HIP HOP – Asfaltiranje 2012. 124 70 142 Meeting of the presidents of ex-Yu avio companies12 Regional co-operation – road to overcoming the crisis Montenegro Airlines flies to London�����������������������20 This Summer London is the world center Unusual experiences – The Diver������������������������������36 Closer than Maldives Interview – Dedduh, a half of Who See Band��������46 Masters of ceremonies write their own texts Hot summer in Podgorica��������������������������������������������58 Hip-hop – Paving 2012 Barski ljetopis�����������������������������������������������������������������������70 More, sunce, pozorište, note… Festival Bar Chronicles���������������������������������������������������72 The sea, the sun, theatre, music notes… Budva grad Teatar��������������������������������������������������������������76 Čovjek koji se smije je čovjek koji se ne boji Theater city Budva����������������������������������������������������������78 A man who laughs is a man who is not afraid Montenegro Dance Festival, Tivat��������������������������������84 Zaplešimo! Montenegro Dance Festival, Tivat�����������������������������85 Let’s Dance! Purgatorije 2012, Tivat������������������������������������������������������88 Po mediteranski Purgatory 2012, Tivat�����������������������������������������������������90 Mediterranean way Kotor Art 2012���������������������������������������������������������������������94 Umjetnost će okupirati sve pjace! Kotor Art 2012������������������������������������������������������������������96 All the Piazzas will be Occupied with Art! Ko bi to rekao?�������������������������������������������������������������������100 U pećini svetilište Who would tell?������������������������������������������������������������ 102 Sacred place in the cave Nj. V. Princ Nikola II Petrović Njegoš��������������������������104 Neka bude što biti ne može! H.M. Prince Nikola II Petrović Njegoš��������������������� 110 Let it be what cannot be! Rukomet - Za Crnu Goru: Svi!���������������������������������������116 Godina lavljeg srca Handball – ALL for Montenegro!���������������������������� 120 Year of Lion’s Heart Olimijada 2012.�����������������������������������������������������������������124 Olimpijska magija Olympic Games 2012�������������������������������������������������� 126 Olympic Magic Crnogorske TOP destinacije������������������������������������������130 Odličan, pet! Iz istorije naših gradova - Ulcinj����������������������������������134 Eho gusarske slave Lijepe naše plaže��������������������������������������������������������������142 Svečano podizanje Plavih zastavica Crnogorska kužina�����������������������������������������������������������146 Krap na podgorički način 00 146 Impressum Inflight Magazine No 30 Ljeto 2012. / Summer 2012 Uređuje i izdaje / Editing and Publishing Montenegro Airlines, Marketing & Corporative Communications Department, Mr Aleksandra Gardašević-Slavuljica Dizajn, priprema za Štampu i oglaŠavanje / design, prepress and ADs Glavni i odgovorni urednik / Editor-in-chief Nada Bukilić Art direktor / Art Director Vuk Eraković DIZAJN / DESIGN Vuk Eraković tekstovi / TEXTS Nada Bukilić, Ćazim Nikezić, Merin Smailagić, Olga Žulović, Vojislav Kaluđerović, Milena Radojević, Danica Ćeranić, Maja Milačić, Ana Marković, Goran Barović, Mustafa Canka, Veljko Vujanović, Bratislav Kokolj Fotografija / Photo Duško Miljanić, Slaven Vilus, Risto Božović, Anes Lekić NASLOVNA STRANA / cover page Slaven Vilus TEHNIČKI UREDNIK / TECHNICAL EDITOR Nikola Kumburović Oglašavanje / Advertising Jelena Dragutinović Tel: +382 (0)20 664 283 E-mail: mapa@t-com.me Prevodioc / Translator Dubravka Jocović Lektor / proofreader Dr Sanja Šubarić Štampa / Printed by DPC & Grafotisak Grude Tiraž / Number of copies: 5000 Montenegrin TOP destinations ������������������������������ 132 Straight A! From history of our towns – Ulcinj������������������������� 138 Echo of pirates’ fame South stories – our beautiful beaches������������������ 144 Festive rising of Blue flags Montenegro Airlines Beogradska 10, 81000 Podgorica, Montenegro, tel: +382 (0)20 405 501 fax: +382 (0)20 405 528 E-mail: marketing@mgx.me www.montenegroairlines.com Montenegrin cuisine��������������������������������������������������� 148 Carp prepared in Podgorica way Pričam ti priču��������������������������������������������������������������������150 Hodam ja po pijesku, kad tamo … Let me tell you a story������������������������������������������������ 154 I was strolling on the sand, when all of a sudden… Crnogorska savremena poezija�����������������������������������158 Milorad Popović Modern Montenegrin Poetry����������������������������������� 160 Milorad Popović 8 88 Montenegro Advertising and Production Agency Stadion Budućnosti, Ul. 19. decembra 13, 81000 Podgorica, Montenegro tel: +382 (0)20 664 283 mapa@t-com.me www.mapa.co.me ISSN 1800-5462 Poštovani putnici, Dear passengers, Ljeto sve nas asocira na dinamične i lijepe događaje, opuštanja, a prije svega putovanja. Imajući to u vidu, u Montenegro Airlinesu smo se potrudili da ovogodišnju ljetnju ponudu učinimo što atraktivnijom. We all associate summer with dynamic and pleasant events, relaxation, and above all, traveling. Having that in mind, we in Montenegro Airlines have tried to make this summer offer as attractive as possible. Ljetnji mjeseci su za našu kompaniju vrijeme realizacije brojnih projekata koje smo pripremali tokom godine. I ove ljetnje sezone ćemo, kao svih prethodnih, dati punu podršku crnogorskom turizmu. Pored široke mreže međunarodnih linija i naš charter saobraćaj u potpunosti je stavljen u službu crnogorske turističke privrede. Posredstvom naših partnera biće obavljeno preko 400 ino-charter letova namijenjenih turistima. Fasten your seatbelts! 10 President’s message U toku ljetnje sezone 2012. godine svi naši redovni letovi imaće pojačan broj rotacija. Svi koji žele da dođu u Crnu Goru na odmor, poslovno ili turistički, imaju mogućnost da biraju između mnogo ponuđenih opcija, kako sa apekta destinacija, tako i tarifa, kupovine karata preko interneta i sl. Pozivajući naše poslovnice širom Evrope, dobićete informacije o povoljnostima koje smo pripremili za Vas. Sada kada ste se već udobno smjestili u sjedište, za prijatnije trenutke Vašeg leta spremili smo ovaj Inflight magazin u kome ćete naći mnoštvo, kako zanimljivih, tako i korisnih informacija. Dragi putnici, ako u Crnu Goru dolazite turistički, želim Vam prijatan odmor u našoj zemlji. Ukoliko dolazite poslovno, želim Vam mnogo uspjeha i ugodan boravak, a prije svega želim Vam da uživate u ovom putovanju. For our company, summer months are time of realization of numerous projects that we have been preparing during the year. As we did in previous seasons, this time we will also fully support Montenegrin tourism. Beside wide network of international lines, our charter is also fully working for Montenegrin tourist economy. With the help of our partners, we will provide, especially for tourists, over 400 charter flights to foreign countries. During summer season 2012, all our regular flights will have bigger number of rotations. All those who want to come to Montenegro on vacation, for business or as tourists, will have the opportunity to choose among many offered options, from aspect of destinations, as well as from aspect of prices, on-line purchase of tickets, and so on. By calling our business departments all over Europe, You will get information about special offers we designed especially for You. Now, that You are already comfortably seated, for more pleasant moments of Your flight, we prepared this Inflight magazine, where You will find many interesting and useful information. Dear passengers, if You are coming to Montenegro as tourists, I wish You an enjoyable vacation in our country. If You are coming for business, I wish You a lot of success and pleasant staying, and above all, I wish You enjoy this flight. Srdačno, Sincerely, Dr Zoran Djurisic, Engineer Chairman of the Board of Directors Montenegro Airlines dr Zoran Đurišić, dipl. inž., predsjednik Odbora direktora Montenegro Airlinesa 11 Susret predsjednika avio kompanija sa prostora ex-Yu Regionalna saradnja - put ka prevazilaženju krize M iločer, Budva, 19.05.2012. godine – Montenegro Airlines bio je domaćin sastanka na kome su se okupili predsjednici četiri nacionalne aviokompanije sa prostora bivše Jugoslavije. Susret je bio prilika da se razmjene iskustva i razmotre mogućnosti o unaprjeđenju saradnje. Viši nivo saradnje avio-kompanija unutar regiona jugoistočne Evrope mogla bi da značajno unaprijedi mobilnost ljudi i ubrza procese razvoja avio kompanija. Sve četiri avio-kompanije su tehnički i tehnološki spremne da zadovolje potrebe mobilnosti svojih građana, ali i turističke tražnje, koja je posebno izražena u ljetnjim mjesecima. Međutim, njihovi kapaciteti nisu dovoljno iskorišteni. Poznato je da od postojećih 10 do 12 miliona putnika sa teritorije bivše Jugoslavije, svega 40% prevoze četiri nacionalna avio-prevoznika. Ostale putnike prevoze inostrani prevoznici prisutni na našim tržištima. Na susretu je konstatovano da postoje brojne mogućnosti za unaprjeđenje saradnje. Tu se prije svega misli na bilateralne sporazume među regionalnim kompanijama, code-share ugovore, usklađivanje re12 dova letjenja. Pored navedenog, razmatrane su mogućnosti uzajamne eksploatacije flota, povezivanje postojećih linija, zajedničku nabavku goriva, opreme za avione i nadogradnja postojećih tehnologija. Kao što je poznato, opšte stanje u avio industriji i dalje je veoma zabrinjavajuće. Na globalnom nivou, brojne su kompanije koje posluju sa enormnim gubicima. Dakle, bez obzira na povećanje broja putnika, limitirajući faktori razvoja avio kompanija su visoke cijene goriva, aerodromskih usluga, cijene usluga opsluživanja aviona... Svi koji su u vrijednosnom lancu vazdušnog saobraćaja, ostvaruju profit, osim avio prevoznika koji preuzimaju najveći rizik. Susret predsjednika avio kompanija okončan je pres konferencijom, kojoj je prisustvovao veliki broj novinara, kako iz zemlje, tako i iz inostranstva. Ovom prilikom, predsjednik Montenegro Airlinesa, Zoran Đurišić istakao je da je ideja da se na jednom mjestu okupe čelnici avio-kompanija sa prostora ex-Jugoslavije, potvrdila svoju održivost. „Imali smo intenzivne razgovore, koji su bili krajnje konstruktivni. Razmijenili smo isku- stva u funkcionisanju nacionalnih avioprevoznika i prezentovali probleme sa kojima se susrijećemo. Takođe smo definisali neke konkretne ideje kako da te probleme umanjimo. Raduje činjenica da je ovo prvi u nizu sastanaka ovog tipa, koji će da uslijede.”, izjavio je dr Đurišić. Glavni direktor Croatia Airlinesa, Srećko Simunović, izjavio je da kompanije nisu jedna drugoj konkurencija i da je svaki vid saradnje više nego dobrodošao. Bliža međusobna saradnja neophodna je da bi se maksimalno iskoristili pojedinačni kapaciteti svake kompanije. Generalni direktor JAT Airwaysa, Vladimir Ognjenović i Klemen Boštjančič, izvršni direktor Adria Airwaysa, takođe su saglasni u ocjeni da je saradnja neophodna, da sve kompanije imaju slične probleme i da se nadaju da će ubrzo prvi rezultati saradnje biti vidljivi. Na kraju dvodnevnog susreta, čelni ljudi avio kompanija iz regiona poslali su jasnu poruku da će unaprjeđenjem međusobne saradnje, najviše koristi imati putnici koji će lakše i jeftinije stizati do željenih destinacija. 13 Meeting of the presidents of ex-Yugoslavian aviation companies Regional co-operation road to overcoming the crisis M iločer, Budva, May 19 2012, Montenegro Airlines was a host of meeting, where the presidents of four national aviation companies from ex-Yugoslavia gathered. This meeting presented an opportunity to exchange experiences and consider options of advancing the co-operation. Higher level of co-operation among aviation companies inside the region of South-east Europe, could significantly improve mobility of people and speed up the process of aviation companies’ development. All four aviation companies are prepared, both technically and technologically, to satisfy the needs of their own citizens, as well as the needs of tourist demand, which is especially significant during summer months. However, their capacities are not being used sufficiently. There is record that out of existing 10 to 12 million passengers from territory of ex-Yugoslavia, only 40% of them are traveling by four national aviation carriers. The rest of the passengers, travel with foreign companies, present on our markets. This meeting stated that there are numerous possibilities for improvement of cooperation. Above all, bilateral agreements between regional companies, code-share 14 contracts and synchronizing time of departures, are meant by that. Beside previously stated things, the possibilities of mutual exploitation of fleets, connection of existing lines, joint supply of fuel and aero-equipment, and advancing of existing technologies, had been considered. national aero-companies and presented problems that we encountered. We have also defined some concrete ideas how to diminish such problems. I am glad that this was the first of many meetings of this type that are about to happen”, declared dr Đurišić. It is well known that general state in aeroindustry is still very concerning. On global level, numerous companies work with enormous losses. So, regardless of increased number of passengers, limiting factors of aero-companies’ development are high prices of fuel, airport taxes, prices of plane servicing … Anyone included in profitable chain of air transport gains profit, except for aero companies, who take the biggest risk. General president of Croatia Airlines, Srećko Simunović, said that these companies are not competing with each other, and that any form of co-operation is more than welcome. Closer mutual co-operation is necessary, in order to use individual capacities of each company to the maximum. The meeting of aero-companies’ presidents ended with press conference, which was attended by large number of journalists, from our country, as well as from abroad. On this occasion, president of Montenegro Airlines, Zoran Đurišić, pointed out that the idea to gather leaders of aero-companies from ex-Yu countries in one place, confirmed its sustainability. “We had some intensive conversations that proved to be highly constructive. We exchanged experiences in functioning of General president of JAT Airways, Vladimir Ognjenović and Klemen Boštjančič, executive director of Adria Airways, also agree on estimate that co-operation is necessary, that all the companies encounter similar problems, and that they are all looking forward to seeing the first results of this co-operation. In the end of two-day meeting, leading people of aero-companies from the region, sent a clear message, that the passengers, who will get to desired destinations more easily and cheaply, will have the most benefits of this mutual co-operation. 15 Montenegro Airlines leti u London Ovog je ljeta London centar svijeta 16 17 U ovom gradu prekrasnih parkova, brojnih muzeja i galerija, spomenika, crkava i katedrala, ali i neobičnih modernih građevina, bije puls multikulturalnog života metropole koja je još davne 1811. godine imala milion stanovnika Tekst: Marija Jovićević T Bakingemska palata Bakingemska palata osvaja grandioznošću. Na njenom ulazu postavljen je spomenik kraljici Viktoriji. Bakingemska palata je kraljičina rezidencija, ali i kancelarija. Kada je kraljica u kući, na njoj se vijori britanska zastava. Zdanje ima 600 soba, 78 kupatila, 92 kancelarije, bioskop, bazen, poštu i policijsku stanicu. U palati je zaposleno 400 ljudi, uključujući i dvoje koji vode računa o čak 300 satova. Svake godine više od 50.000 ljudi dođe u palatu. Riječ je o kraljičinim gostima na banketima, ručkovima, večerama i prijemima. 18 eško je dočarati ljepotu metropole za koju je slavni pisac Samuel Džonson rekao: "Kada se čovjek zasiti Londona, zasitio se i samog života“. Jedna vožnja od aerodroma Hitrou do Trafalgar skvera dovoljna je da se zaljubite u London. Iako ima i romantičnijih i glamuroznijih gradova, London osvaja životom koji pulsira na svakom njegovom mjestu: od šetnje po Oksford stritu, vožnje dabldekerima, mirisa kebaba u istočnom Londonu, ili ribe, pomfrita, crnog piva i vina u pabu u njegovom zapadnom dijelu, do gužve u Sitiju i relaksirajućeg čaja u pet sati. Od pozorišnih predstava na Vest endu ili romantičnih ponoćnih šetnji uz Embankment, od rijeke Temze do Tauer bridža, i dalje do divnih predgrađa u kojima se mir i tišina smjenjuju sa cvrkutom ptica — život vibrira na sve strane. Ali, to nije ista, klasična priča velikih biznis centara širom svijeta. London je poseban jer pripada svima. Teško je osjećati se kao stranac u gradu u kojem je tako puno stranaca. Bogatstvo nacija, rasa, kultura, ukusa, stilova, hrane, religija, muzike, svega onoga što ljudi donose u London, ovaj grad čini jedinstvenim. U najvećem gradu Velike Britanije i Evrope živi sedam i po miliona stanovnika svih rasa i nacija. U njemu se može čuti oko tri stotine različitih jezika. Svuda u Londonu vide se nove, drugačije stvari, neobični ljudi, građevine, stilovi. Niko nikog ne imitira - London ima svoju modu. U ovom gradu prekrasnih parkova, brojnih muzeja i galerija, spomenika, crkava i katedrala, ali i neobičnih modernih građevina, bije puls multikulturalnog života metropole koja je još davne 1811. godine imala milion stanovnika. Među nezaobilaznim znamenitostima grada jesu umjetnički hramovi - Britanski muzej, Nacionalna galerija, impresivna Tejt galerija s izloženim djelima Matisa i Pikasa. Ispred muzeja se prostire predivno šetalište uz Temzu, gdje se možete nakratko odmoriti... 19 U blizini je i Gloub, rekonstrukcija slavnog Šekspirovog pozorišta. Kad krenete u osvajanje Londona računajte na dugo brzo hodanje i vožnju najljepšim metroom na svijetu. U londonskoj podzemnoj željeznici sve je uređeno sa stilom - osvojiće vas svojim šarmom i jedinstvenošću. Čuveni "tjub" pušten je u promet davne 1863. i najstariji je metro na svijetu. Danas povezuje 273 stanice na dvanaest linija. Za London je potrebno makar sedam dana da bi se upoznale sve njegove znamenitosti. Ono što se ne smije propustiti jeste Britanski parlament, Big Ben, Vestminster ebi, katedrala Sent Pol, Pikadili sirkus, Trafalgar skver… Kompleks Big Bena i zgrade parlamenta nevjerovatan je. I ne kaže se badava da niste bili u Londonu ako ne vidite Britanski parlament koji korijene vuče iz davnog XII vijeka. Uz samo zdanje nastao je slavni sat Big Ben, za koji niko nije ni pomišljao da će postati jedna od najprepoznatljivijih znamenitosti Londona i najpoznatiji sat na svijetu. I V O N ri e n t r a p a j a d o r p na E T A R Mostovi na Temzi su posebna atrakcija. Ima ih čak 34. Najstariji od njih je London bridž, koji je originalno bio napravljen od drveta, ali je davne 1209. godine zamijenjen kamenim mostom. Godine 1831. napravljen je od granita. Jedan od čuvenih mostova jeste i pokretni Tauer bridž. Ne smijete propustiti od ni "Londonsko oko", jednom od najnovijih londonskih znamenitosti - veliki kotur, najveći na svijetu, nudi impresivan pogled na grad danju i noću, kao i vožnju iz snova. • A vioni Montenegro Airlinesa saobraćaju tri puta nedeljno za/iz Londona. • S rijedom i nedjeljom saobraća se iz Tivta, a petkom iz Podgorice. • Let traje tri sata. • A vioni Montenegro Airlinesa slijeću na londonski aerodrom Gaetwick. Šoping iz snova Za one manje zainteresovane za umjetnost uvijek postoji čuveni Oksford strit, sa preko 300 radnji. More ljudi opsjeda ovu ulicu i njene butike. Ni tri dana nisu dovoljna da se dobro obiđe čitava ulica. A londonske cijene? Pa, za neko pićence u pabu trebaće vam suma koju biste u Crnoj Gori potrošili na turu za četvoro ljudi. 20 Sve u svemu, čeka vas grad u kojem je umjetnost življenja dostigla vrhunac, megalopolis koji ni Crnogorcima više nije daleko - od 15. juna svi zainteresovani zahvaljujući letovima Montenegro Airlinesa dva puta sedmično, za manje od tri sata, biće u prilici da uživaju u svim blagodetima ove, kako je često zovu, evropske prijestonice. PREDUZEĆE ZA UNUTRAŠNJU I SPOLJNU TRGOVINU žiro račun: 510-9800-31 i 505-408-11; PIB: 02378094; PDV: 30/31-03854-6 Montenegro Airlines flies to London London is the Center of the world this Summer 22 This city of lovely parks, numerous museums and galleries, monuments, churches and cathedrals, and unusual modern buildings, pulsates with the multicultural life of a metropolis, which had a population of one million as early as in 1811 23 Text: Marija Jovicević I t is difficult to describe the beauty of the metropolis of which the famous writer Samuel Johnson said: “When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life itself.” The ride from Heathrow Airport to Trafalgar Square is enough to fall in love with London. Even though there are more romantic and glamorous cities, London conquers with its pulsating life that is present everywhere: from a walk along Oxford Street, a ride on a double-decker, the smell of kebabs in East London, or fish and chips and beer or wine in a pub located in the West End, to the City rush-hour and a relaxing cup of tea at five o’clock. From the West End plays or romantic midnight walks along the Embankment by the Thames to Tower Bridge, and further along to the beautiful suburbs and their peace and quiet, broken only by the birds chirping – a life that vibrates everywhere you look. Buckingham Palace Buckingham Palace fascinates by its grandeur. There is a monument to Queen Victoria at its entrance. Buckingham Palace is both the residence and office of the Queen. When the Queen is home, the Royal Standard flies above the palace. The building has 600 rooms, 78 bathrooms, 92 offices, a cinema, a swimming pool, a post office and 24 a police station. Four hundred people work in the palace, including two whose duty it is to take care of three hundred clocks. Every year, over 50,000 people visit the palace. They are the Queen’s guests at banquets, lunches, dinners, receptions and garden parties. But this is not the same classical story of the great business centres of the world. London is special because it belongs to everybody. It is difficult to feel like a foreigner in a city so full of foreigners. This profusion of nations, races, cultures, tastes, styles, food, religions, music, everything that people bring with them to London, is what makes this city unique. Seven and a half million people of all races and nations live in the biggest city of the United Kingdom and of Europe. One can hear around three hundred different languages there. All around London, new and very different things can be seen, unusual people, buildings, styles. There are no copycats – London has its own fashion. This city of lovely parks, numerous museums and galleries, monuments, churches and cathedrals, and unusual modern buildings, pulsates with the multicultural life of a metropolis, which had a population of one million as early as in 1811. The must-see places of the city include the temples of art – the British Museum, the National Gallery, the impressive Tate Gallery, featuring exhibits by Matisse and Picasso. A marvellous promenade along the Thames spreads in front of the museum, where one can take a short break... A reconstruction of Shakespeare’s theatre, the Globe, is also in the vicinity. When you start conquering London, you can ride on the shiniest subway in the world. Everything is designed with style in the London underground – you will be overwhelmed by its charm and uniqueness. The famous “tube” was opened back in 1863 and it is the oldest subway in the world. Today, it connects 273 stations along twelve lines. It takes at least seven days to get to know all the monuments of London. Everybody should see the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, Saint Paul’s Cathedral, Piccadilly Circus, Trafalgar Square... 25 The complex encompassing the Clock Tower and the Houses of Parliament is astonishing. And it is not said in vain that you haven’t been in London until you’ve seen the British Parliament which dates all the way back to the 12th century. The famous clock tower and its bell “Big Ben” was erected next to it, and nobody could have guessed back then that it would become one of the most recognizable monuments in London and the best known clock tower in the world. The bridges over the Thames River are a special attraction. There are as many as 34 of them. The oldest one is London Bridge, which was originally built of wood, but replaced with a stone bridge back in 1209. In 1831 it was built of granite. One of the most famous bridges is a drawbridge – Tower Bridge. You mustn’t miss the opportunity to see the London Eye, one of the latest monuments in the city – a big wheel, the biggest one in the world, offering an impressive view over the city both day and night, along with a dream ride. In brief, you are in for a city where the art of living has peaked, a megalopolis that is no longer that distant to Montenegrins – from 15 June, all interested people will have an opportunity to enjoy, thanks to Montenegro Airlines flying there twice a week in less than 3 hours, the beauties of this, as it is often referred, the capital of Europe. Dream shopping For those less interested in art, there is always Oxford Street, with over 300 shops. Rivers of people besiege this street and its boutiques. Three entire days are not sufficient to visit the entire street. London prices? Well, a small drink in a pub will cost you the same as a round for four people in Montenegro. 26 • M ontenegro Airlines flies to/from London three times a week, on Wednesdays and Sundays from Tivat on the Montenegrin coast, and on Fridays from the capital Podgorica. • The flight lasts three hours. • M ontenegro Airlines flies to London airport Gatwick. Hotel Vardar, Kotor ◆ Telefon + 382 32 32 50 84 ◆ Fax + 382 32 32 50 74 info@hotelvardar.com ◆ www.hotelvardar.com Restoran Galion, Kotor ◆ telefon + 382 32 32 50 54 PROIZVODNJA: Majevička br. 18 Tel: + 382 20 262 277 81000 Podgorica, Crna Gora www.doding.co.me SHOW ROOM: Cetinjski put bb (preko puta Delta city-ja) Mob: 069 018 181 Tel: + 382 20 290 290 Porto Montenegro Trebinje Dubrovnik 3D Naselje “Dubrovnik Heights” Pogled vredan milion Villa type 1 Villa type 2 Građevinske parcele od 450 do 1.000 kvadratnih metara po ceni od 50 i od 60 eura po kvadratu. Mogućnost gradnje po sistemu “ključ u ruke”. Kompletna infrastruktura - obezbeđena. Vila bez bazena, od 140 kvadratnih metara - samo 142.000 eura. Mogućnost kreditiranja Hypo-Alpe Adria Banke. Ivanica - BiH, na samoj granici sa Hrvatskom, sa predivnim pogledom na Dubrovačku rivijeru: Cavtat, Plat, Mlini, Srebreno, Kupari i budući Golf Park Dubrovnik, na samo 6 km od Dubrovnika, 14 km od dubrovačkog aerodroma, 18 km od Trebinja, 28 km od Herceg Novog. Crveno more Neobična iskustva – Ronilac Bliže od Maldiva Tekst, fotografije: Veljko Vujanović Veljko Vujanović Č ovjek nije riba i boraviti pod vodom je, naravno, vrlo neobično iskustvo. Pod vodom zavisite od mnogo faktora i, zato, nije lako biti ronilac. Ali, kad je čovjek mlad, posebno kad je mlad duhom (i pomalo „lud”), ide za svojim fascinacijama ne brinući previše o opasnostima i nevoljama. A pod vodom je sve fascinantno: od oblika i boja živog svijeta, preko boja koje stvara prelamanje svjetlosti što sa visina prodire u vodene dubine, vodenih struja i Murina u Crvenom moru Volim da pričam o ronilačkim iskustvima. Bilo je to poodavno, ali me taj vodeni svijet toliko fascinirao da su sva moja sjećanja i danas potpuno živa, jasna i jednako bogata. Vi ste moj Prijatelj, kojem ću rado ispričati neke „podvodne priče” raznovrsnih ćudljivosti ovog svijeta tišine, pa sve do začudnih igara prirode sa stijenama, pećinama, kamenim stupicama i dugim hodnicima u vodenoj tmini… Naravno, uvijek je najzanimljivije ono što je i najopasnije. Kao, recimo, ronjenje u podvodnim pećinama. U pećini Sopot, ka kojoj je prelijep pogled iz Risna, posebno u doba bogatih padavina kada prorade izvori i vrulje u moru, imao sam jednu od avantura koje se pamte cio vijek. Do tada sam ronio uglavnom u otvorenom moru, ali mojim klupskim prijateljima nije bilo teško da me nagovore da zaronim i u Sopot (u vrijeme niskog vodostaja!). Uz manjak opreme i uz višak samopouzdanja, krenuli smo kroz pećinski otvor sa kopna, pored same magistrale. (Moram vam reći da, kada krenete na ronjenje u pećine, morate biti dvostruko opremljeniji nego na moru: dva regulatora, rezervne boce vazduha itd, a mi ništa od toga nijesmo imali!) Više sreće no pameti Od ulaza sa magistrale, nas dva ronioca i naša dva pratioca, hodali smo uskim hodnikom kroz zemlju bar 400 metara dok nijesmo, u tami pećine, stigli do vode. U stvari, našli smo se nad „bunarom” – naš podzemni hodnik završavao se vertikalno naniže, ka vodi. Okomite litice zijevale su u nas svojim kamenim zubima, bar sa šest, sedam metara dužine. A dolje je hučalo more. Odatle smo skočili – u nepoznato! Mislim da je to prije nas učinio samo jedan ronilac, Paljetak. Kako smo upali u vodu, zaronili smo. Rasvjeta koju sam nosio radi podvodnog 34 snimanja, obasjala je nevjerovatan prizor: predivna, ogromna pećina sa velikim galerijama, sa mnoštvom svjetlucavih ukrasa, sa neobičnim, do tada nam nepoznatim stvorenjima tamnih dubina, koja se povlače pred svjetlošću, nenaviknuta i vjerovatno, uplašena… Ronili smo sve dublje i dublje i spustili se čitavih 34 m. Zanosila nas je raskoš tamnog svijeta, nijema tajnovitost dubine, jedinstvenost pećine kojoj je čovjek posve strano biće. Ali, jedan od naših pratilaca, koji je ostao na rubu onog bunara, dobio je pravi klaustrofobični napad i onaj drugi morao se postarati da što hitnije izađe iz pećine. Zato smo mi u vodi ostali prepušteni sami sebi i sreći koja nas je pratila ili nije – nijesmo znali! I, kako to obično i biva kad se čovjek da u igru sa nadmoćnom prirodom, počeli su problemi: prvo mi je otkazao regulator vazduha, što je izazvalo zaglušujuću tutnjavu pod vodom (oh, da samo znate kako to zvuči još u pećini!); onda sam morao da se „prikopčam” na rezervnu bocu vazduha mog kolege, a da obojica ostanemo mirni i prisebni. Uspjeli smo, sreća je ipak bila uz nas, i izronili smo – sad su litice bunara bile iznad nas! Nevjerovatno kolika nas je sreća onda pratila. Čekali smo, činilo nam se dugo i predugo, u hladnoj vodi (najviše 7 ºC) da se vrati naš pratilac i pomogne nam da izađemo iz bunara. Kad je stigao, bacio nam je konop i pomoću njega smo se izvukli do suvog zagrljaja zemlje i kamena. Bili smo očarani svojim podvigom, onim što smo vidjeli, onim što smo uspjeli. Nije mala stvar, zar ne, upoznati jednu tajnu prirode tako izbliza i tako direktno? Ronio sam sa Stivensom i snimao. Kasnije sam od tog materijala montirao kratki film „Sanote Čaka Stivensa”. Sanote su jezerca kroz koja se ulazi u podvodni pećinski svijet Jukatana. Sanote se pominju i u mitovima Maja, i zbilja, takve su da vam se čini da su iz nekih pra-priča, iz snova i sjećanja davnih, moćnih bogova, i stvorene. Čak Stivenson je, inače, rekorder u pećinskom ronjenju, jer je preronio pećinski sistem od 52 km! Međutim, prošlo je bar tri godine od tada, imah sreće pa odoh na ronjenje sa svjetskim rekorderom u pećinskom ronjenju, Čakom Stivensom. Ronili smo kod poluostrva Jukatan, Meksiko. E, tada sam se stvarno uplašio za sebe ondašnjeg. Jer, tada sam prvi put vidio šta sve ronilac mora da ima ako želi roniti kroz pećine! Moj kolega ronilac, Vladan Dubljević, koji je po struci geolog, nije odolio – potrudio se da organizuje preronjavanje i upoznavanje pećina Bokokotorskog zaliva, ne da bi našao naše sanote, već da bi se makar kartografisale te podvodne ljepotice. Sa Klodom Tulumžijanom, jednim od najvećih svjetskih ronilaca kroz pećine, preronio je: Kroz naše pećine 35 U potjeri za Napoleonom momcima na brodu, a ja se vratio u vodu. Vidio sam koleginicu iz grupe kako izranja, pa sam se odmah uputio k njoj. Dograbio sam je, onako kako to radi svaki čovjek kad je u opasnosti, i, koliko sam umio, signalima joj “objasnio” da moram ostati još pod vodom. Koleginica je, srećom, sve odmah shvatila i ostala sa mnom na dubini od tričetiri metra, sve dok nijesmo potrošili sav vazduh iz njene boce. Spasila mi je život jer mi je omogućila prijeko potrebnu dekompresiju. Za to vrijeme, Lelo je na brodu dobio čisti kiseonik, tako da smo obojica prošli bez posljedica. Doduše, i sad mi pomalo zuji u ušima, ali to nije velika cijena za ono ushićenje, radost i uzbuđenje koje sam doživio upoznavši ljepote Maldiva. A sitnica je u odnosu na ono što mi se moglo desiti... Sopot, Gurdić, Orahovačku pećinu, Ljutu… i tako obezbijedio osnovna znanja neophodna svima koji se usude i zarone kroz njih. Kažem – ako se ko usudi, jer je poznato da se od 30 000 ronilaca tek jedan bavi pećinskim ronjenjem! Žak Kustoov sljedbenik I danas volim podvodne pećine, iako sam se u njih zaljubio tek na drugi pogled. A moja prva ljubav probudila se kada sam, kao dijete, gledao emisije koje je snimao legendarni Žak Kusto! Da li zbog njegovog umijeća ili zbog toga što sam već imao neobična interesovanja, tek bio sam uporan da, pošto-poto, dodirnem, osjetim i osvojim ogromni vodeni svijet. Od djetinjstva, godinama, vukla me je ta ista želja. Imao sam gotovo četrdeset kad sam otišao na ronjenje u tropska mora: Crveno more, Indijski okean, Karibi… sve su to „adrese” mojih najdražih uspomena. 36 I uvijek sam snimao! Ni sam nijesam vjerovao kada sam razvio fotografije iz Crvenog mora (još nijesam imao digitalni aparat): boje, boje, čarobne boje! I na Maldivima, divnim ostrvima koja su sinonim za raj, snimio sam čitavu seriju nevjerovatnih prizora. Sve te fotografije izlagao sam na izložbama podvodne fotografije, s dubokom nadom da će oni koji ih vide, ako ne otići u ronioce, ono više cijeniti i voljeti stvaralačku moć i vrijednost prirode. Kad nekoga nije strah I na Maldivima mi se desila jedna ozbiljna situacija; evo kako je to bilo: formirali smo ronilačku grupu zajedno sa Italijanima. Ukrcali smo se na brod koji je krstario između Maldivskih ostrva i sa kojeg smo mogli svaki dan ići tri puta na zaron. Redovno sam snimao ili fotografisao, a ponekad bih se ‘naoružao’ i aparatom i video kamerom sa kućištem za podvodno snumanje. Tokom posljednjih zarona, zanesen, zaboravio sam na jake podvodne struje u blizini Maldivskih sprudova. Jednu od tih struja popularno zovu „veš mašina”. Opasna je zato što, ako dograbi ronioca koji se odvojio od spruda, izbaca ga na površinu velikom brzinom, što je već opasno po život zbog barotrauma. E, meni se baš to i desilo! Lelo, Italijan iz Barija, moj partner i ja, pri ovom zaronu smo se odmakli od spruda kako bih mogao malo šire uhvatiti taj prelijepi kadar... Ali, struja nas je dograbila i izbacila na površinu! Najprije sam osjetio bolno i jako zujanje u ušima. Sa dubine od 35 m, za par sekundi smo se našli na površini! Kompjuter koji sam nosio na ruci trebalo je da mi dâ sve podatke o potrošnji vazduha, brzini izrona, dekompresionim zastancima... Međutim, on je potpuno otkazao i na displeju se pojavilo samo: ‘S.O. S.’ Ali, što je tu je. Sad je bilo neophodno da obojica odemo što prije u bolnicu koja ima barokomoru, ali – kako? Bili smo na sred arhipelaga! Zato sam ronilačku bocu dodao Ni ovakvi događaji nijesu pomutili moju ljubav prema ronjenju. Ni slučajno! Jer, ronjenje nije samo opasnost. Ono je očaravajuće iskustvo, koje vas čini posebnim kada se susretnete tako sami i oči u oči sa prirodom, i, iznad svega, ubjedljiv dokaz da priroda, stvarajući čovjeka, ni slučajno nije iscrpila svu svoju kreativnost i maštovitost… Svaki zaron pod vodu razbukti vatre adrenalina i za vas tada ne postoji strah. Jednostavno, uživate u dubinama plavetnila, kao da letite kroz najljepše svjetove iz bajki. Za mene je bilo veliko zadovoljstvo što sam dio tih svojih doživljaja i utisaka preko fotografija podijelio sa ljudima „sa površine”. Na površini Od ronjenja me je odvojilo nešto sasvim drugo – odvojile su me godine! Jer, ronjenje je iskustvo koje pripada jakom, mladom i zdravom organizmu. Ali, moje godine su, uistinu, more mojih predivnih i posebnih uspomena. Ronilačka iskustva su mi podigla kriterijume i sada ne mogu za bilo što reći ili misliti da je ugodno, lijepo i vrijedno oka. Zato sam uporno, u mojoj zemlji, tragao za mjestom koje se može mjeriti sa ljepotama prostora koje sam vidio i upoznao. Našao sam ga na obali Tare. To je moj Grab, gdje živim i radim, siguran da ni on ni ja ne zaostajemo: ja sa svojim uspomenama u odnosu na druge ljude, Grab sa svojim ljepotama u odnosu na daleke neke krajeve o kojima zna cio svijet. Danas sam srećan što moja porodica i ja živimo u ovom prekrasnom kutku svijeta, kao što sam zadovoljan i što prijatelji i gosti koji nam dođu, odavde odnose najljepše utiske. I, kada od njih, iz daleka dobijem pozdrav, uz zahvalnost za ljepotu koju su ovdje doživjeli, osjetim to kao ponovni, duboki zaron u ljepotu prirode i svijeta kojem pripadamo. Moj Grab je mnogo bliži od Maldiva. Dođite! 37 Unusual experiences – The Diver Closer than Maldives Text and photography by: Veljko Vujanović I love talking about my diving experiences. It all happened a long time ago, but the sea world fascinated me so much that all my memories are vivid, clear and equally rich even today. You are my Friend, to whom I will gladly tell some of my “submarine stories”. A man is not a fish, and being under water is, naturally, very unusual experience. You are dependant on many factors when under water, and thus, it is not easy to be a diver. However, when a man is young, especially when young-spirited (and a bit “crazy”), he follows his own fascinations, not worrying too much about dangers and troubles. And under water, everything is fascinating: from shapes and colours of living creatures, shades made by fractured light that from heights perme- ates watery depths, currents and diverse moods of this world of quietness, all the way to wondrous games of nature with rocks, caves, rock pitfalls and long corridors in watery darkness… Of course, the most dangerous things are always the most interesting ones. Diving in submarine caves, for example. In cave Sopot, which can be seen from Risan, especially during rainfalls when springs and whirlpools in the sea activate, I had an adventure, the kind of which one can never forget. Until then, I dived in open sea, but my club palls did not have hard time to persuade me to dive in Sopot (during low water level!). Not equipped properly, but abundant in self-confidence, we made it through cave hole on the ground, next to the highway. (I must tell you that, when you go diving in caves, you have to be twice as equipped as when you dive in the sea: two regulators, spare oxygen bottles, etc, and we had none of those!) More luck than brains From the entrance on the highway, two of us divers, and our two companions, were walking along narrow corridor through the soil for at least 400 meters, until, in the darkness of the cave, we reached water. Actually, we found ourselves above “well” – our underground corridor ended vertically downward, towards water. Upright cliffs yawned at us with their rock teeth, from a distance of at least six, to seven meters. And the sea roared from within. From that spot, we jumped into the unknown! I believe that only one diver before us did the same thing, Paljetak was his name. As we fell into water, we dived in. The light I was wearing because of the submarine filming, enlightened an amazing sight: beautiful, huge cave with large galleries, copious glittering ornaments, with unusual, so far unknown creatures of dark depths, creatures that withdrawn in front of the light, not used to us, and probably scared… We dived deeper and deeper and submerged for whole 34 meters. We were enticed by the splendour of dark world, silent secrets of the depth, uniqueness of the cave to which a man is completely strange being. 38 Veljko Vujanović na Crvenom moru However, one of our companions, who remained at the edge of the well, had severe attack of claustrophobia and the other guy had to help him get out of the cave as soon as possible. We were abandoned to the mercy of destiny, not knowing whether it was good or bad! And, as it usually happens when a man plays with superior nature, the problems began: first my air regulator broke, which created deafening thundering under water (oh, if only you could imagine that sound resonating in the cave!); then I had to “attach” myself to spare bottle of my colleague, yet, we both had to remain calm and composed. We made it - destiny was, after all, on our side, and we dived out – now the cliffs of the well were above us! We waited, it seemed like forever, in cold water (no more than 7 degrees) for our companion to return and help us out of the well. When he arrived, he threw us the rope and with the help of it, we climbed to be welcomed by dry embrace of earth and stone. We were mesmerized by our venture, by the things we saw, the thing we pulled out. It is not small thing, is it, to meet a secret of nature, from such a small distance, and so directly? 39 Klod Tulumdžian u Orahovačkoj ljutoj, 1999. godine Maldivi: ajkule u pećini When a man has no fear However, at least three years from that passed, and I was lucky enough to go diving with world recorder in cave diving, Chuck Stevens. We were diving near peninsula Yucatan, in Mexico. It was only then that I truly felt petrified by what I did in Sopot. Because, that was the first time I saw what the diver had to have in order to dive in caves! It is unbelievable how lucky we were. Through our caves I dived with Stevens and recorded everything. Later, I made short film out of gathered material, called “Sanotas of Chuck Stevens”. Sanotas are small lakes through which you enter the submarine world of Yucatan. Sanotas are even mentioned in Mayan myths, and really, they are such, that they seem like they emerged from some ancient stories, from dreams and memories, created by mighty gods. Chuck Stevenson is, also, the champion in cave diving, because he dived through cave system 52 km long! 40 My colleague diver, Vladan Dubljević, geologist by vocation, could not resist – he made an effort to organize diving through and meeting with caves in Boka bay, not to search for our sanotas, but to, at least, map those under-water beauties. Together with Claude Tulumsian, one of the world greatest cave divers, he dived through Sopot, Gurdić, Orahovačka cave, Ljuta…and thus gave us basic knowledge necessary to all those who dare to dive in. I deliberately say – who dare, because it is well known that out of 30 000 divers, only one practices cave diving! Follower of Jacques Cousteau I love submarine caves, although I fell in love with them only at second sight. My first love was born when I, as a child, was watching shows made by legendary Jacques Cousteau! I do not know whether it was because of him, or because I had already had unusual interests, but I was persistent in touching, feeling and conqu- ering enormous sea world, at any cost. Ever since childhood, for many years, I was driven by that same wish. I was nearly forty when I went diving in tropical seas: Red Sea, Indian Ocean, and Caribbean…all addresses of my dearest memories. And I always filmed everything! I could not believe it myself when I developed photographs from Red sea (at that time, I still did not have digital camera): colours, colours, magical colours! In Maldives also, beautiful islands, which are synonym for heaven, I filmed entire series of unbelievable sights. I exhibited all those photographs on submarine photography exhibitions, deeply hoping that those who see them, will, if not become divers, but at least cherish and love more the creative power and worth of nature. I also had a serious situation in Maldives; and this is how it happened: we formed diving group with some Italian people. We embarked the ship that was cruising among islands of Maldives, and from which we could go and dive in three times a day. I regularly took photos or filmed, and sometimes, I would even “arm” myself with camera that had encasing for submarine filming. During last diving, mesmerized, I completely forgot about strong, underwater currents near sandbars of Maldives. One of those currents is popularly called “the washing machine”. It is dangerous, because if it catches a diver who separated from the sandbar, it casts him to the surface with great velocity, which is life threatening because of barometric traumas. Well, that is exactly what happened to me! Lelo, Italian guy from Bari, my partner and I, during this diving-in, separated ourselves from the sandbar so we could get a wider look of that beautiful sight… However, the current caught us and threw us to the surface! At first, I felt painful and strong buzz in my ears. From the depth of 35 m, in only a few seconds, we found ourselves on surface! Computer I was wearing on my arm, was supposed to give all the data about air expenditure, speed of diving out, de-compression pauses… However, it completely went off, and only “SOS” showed up on the display. But, what happened – happened. Now it was necessary for both of us to get to the hospital that has barometric chamber as soon as possible, but – how? We were in the middle of archipelago! Therefore, I passed my diving bottle to the guys on the boat, and returned into water. I saw a colleague from the group diving out, so I immediately went towards her. I grabbed her, the way that every man when in danger would, and the best I could, with signals, “explained” that I needed to stay under water a bit longer. She, luckily, immediately realized everything, and remained with me in depth of about three to four meters, until we spent all the air from her bottle. She saved my life, because she provided me with necessary de-compression. During that time, Lelo got pure oxygen on the ship, so both of us got out of this experience without consequences. I must admit, that even today, I can hear a little buzz in my ears, but that is a small price for the thrill, joy and excitement I felt meeting the beauties in Maldives. Yet, it is a small thing, compared to what could have happened to me… Not even such experience could lessen my passion for diving. Not a bit! Because, diving is not just a danger. It is enchanting experience that will make you feel special when you find yourself eye to eye with nature, and above all, it is convincing proof that the nature, by creating a man, did not spend all its creativity… Every divingin flames up the fires of adrenalin, and you do not know for fear. You simply enjoy in deep blue space, as if you are flying through the most beautiful worlds form fairytales. I had a great pleasure to convey part of my experiences and impressions on photographs, and thus shared them with the people from the “surface”. On the surface Completely different thing separated me from diving – my age! Because diving is experience that belongs to strong, young and healthy organism. Nevertheless, my age is truly, the sea of my beautiful and special memories. Diving experiences made me raise my criteria, and now I cannot say for just about anything to be enjoyable, beautiful or pleasant to the eye. For that reason, I searched my country to find a place that can measure up to beauties I saw and met. I have found such place on the banks of Tara River. That is my Grab, where I live and work, convinced that neither of us is left behind: I, with my memories, compared to other people; Grab with its beauties, compared to distant places the whole world knows about. Today, I am happy because my family and I live in this gorgeous part of the world, and I am satisfied to know that friends and guests, who come to visit us, take the most beautiful memories out of here. Moreover, when I get regards from them from faraway, expressing gratitude for experiencing such a beauty, I feel as if I deeply plunged again into natural beauty of the world we all belong to. My Grab is much closer than Maldives. 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Srećan i bezbrižan put želi Vam Sava Montenegro AD! Sava Montenegro AD wish you a pleasant and safe journey! Sava Montenegro AD Rimski trg 70, 81000 Podgorica Tel/fax: +382 20 234 008 · Call center: +382 20 40 30 20 www.sava.co.me , info@sava.co.me INTERVJU - Dedduh, ½ Who See Klape Meštri ceremonija sami pišu tekstove… Najnovije čudo crnogorske muzičke scene je hip hop dvojac WHO SEE KLAPA, odnosno momci iz Kotora - Dedduh i Noyz. Oni gospodare na živim svirkama, koncertima i na MTV, ali i u srcima mlađane nam populacije i one koja se s pravom tako osjeća, kojoj je dojadilo da ih mrzovoljni, matori i isprani kvazi-kulturoljupci uče što valja, a što ne, što može, a što ne može ni za živu glavu! WHO SEE, dakle, čuva žive mnoge glave S lutili smo da su momci izvanredno zauzeti. Jure ih fanovi, hip hop poštovaoci, zaljubljene đevojke i – dosadni novinari! I taman kad pomisliš da „negđe nekom drugom daju intervju” ili da „sviraju neđe drugo”, ili pomisliš da su baš kad ti trebaju „trknuli do inostranstva”, oni su, ustvari, zauzeti – poslom! Ljudi rade! Znate onaj vic o Lenjinu, kad on povjerljivo i sugestivno savjetuje jednog junošu zašto treba da ima i ženu i ljubavnicu, pa kaže: „Najbolje je kad žena misli da si kod ljubavnice, ljubavnica misli da si kod žene, a ti – učiš, učiš i samo učiš!” E, tako, otprilike izgleda gotovo svaki dan ovih mladića: oni rade, rade i rade svirke svuda u regionu! Zato smo uspjeli da razgovaramo sa jednom polovinom klape – Dedduh je bio manje uposlen, pa je ugrabio malo vremena i pričao nam u svoje i, pomalo, u Noyzovo ime… Evo šta nam je pričao, dok je Noyz „rmbačio”: vlačno? hip hopa u Crnoj Gori? DEDDUH: Hip hop kultura je sačinjena od nekoliko podkultura. Rep je nešto o čemu sam maštao, vjerujući da ću i ja jednog dana znati to da radim. Znao sam da je potrebna vježba, gomile napisanih i bačenih (u kontejner, ne pored njega, jer mi je ekološka svijest vazda bila razvijena) tekstova... Privlačili su me gramofoni, ali sam i te kako bio svjestan da nikad neću imati para za njih i ploče, za sve to što treba... Brejk dens je kul, ali bez mene, nemam talenta za to. Grafite sam propustio jer sam imao kompleks od drugova koji su išli u likovnu školu. Ja samouk... E, i... Odlučio sam da svu svoju energiju i kreativnost prenesem hemijskom olovkom od tadašnjih 20 pfeninga u svesku od 50 pfeninga ili malo skuplju. Kasnije sam dobio i kompjuter od roditelja pa sam mogao da napravim i muziku (ritam). DEDDUH: Super je kad znaš da se trud „isplatio“ i da ljudi znaju da si doprinio cjelokupnoj kulturi, ali je sa druge strane loše to što je bilo potrebno potrošiti sve te dragocjene godine kako bi se stiglo dovde, tj. do pozitivne nule. Ne bih baš rekao da smo mi pioniri hip hopa u Crnoj Gori. Otprilike, Rambo Amadeus je u vrijeme raspada komunizma radio nešto tako, pa Koko Kid i Monteniggers... onda prazno jedno deset godina pa Who See Klapa – album „Sviranje kupcu“. - Kako ste se odlučili za hip hop? Šta je u toj vrsti muzike za vas bilo posebno pri- - U međuvremenu smo dobili cente. Kako se osjećate, s obzirom da ste, ipak, pioniri 44 - Pa, dobro, pionirski nakon desetak godina… Sami pišete tekstove, da li sami i producirate muziku ili…? Odnosno, kako ste podijelili dužnosti? DEDDUH: Pravilo je da svaki meštar ceremonije sebi piše tekst. Od nastanka klape baziramo se i oslanjamo na sopstvene snage i talenat. Noyz je tekstopisac, grafički dizajner i video producent. Uradio je mnoge spotove, što nama, što drugima, video reklame, omote... Pjesme je uglavnom producirao naš prijatelj Rhino (Igor Burzan, Podgorica, studio 6TH WORLD) koji nam i gostuje na nekoliko pjesama na prvom i drugom albumu. Moja uloga je tu mnogo skromnija; osim što pišem tekstove napravim i po koji instrumental u mojoj „Verandabeatz“. - Singl Boka Boka je skrenuo pažnju i nagovijestio vašu popularnost. Koje još pjesme smatrate uspješnima, na koje publika najbolje reaguje? I imate li pjesmu, koja je vama baš – draga i važna, a da je publika nije do kraja shvatila ili prihvatila? Ustvari, interesuje me, kako se „opipava puls” publike i da li se time uopšte zamarate? DEDDUH: Boka, Boka je singl nastao udruženim snagama repera iz Crne Gore. Ova rečenica je - „niđe veze“ ali... DJ Mono (Podgorica) i Rhino autori su hip hop radio showa „The Coming“ koji se čuje svakog četvrtka u 21 sat sa talasa radija Antena M. Ta legendarna i za nas veoma važna emisija, počela se emitovati još 1998. a traje i dalje i nikad neće stati. The Coming crew i Klapa Who See počeli su razvijati „ve- like planove“. Kasnije je to išlo drugačijim tokom, ali je iza nas ostao rezultat saradnje - singl Boka, Boka. Inače, nikad se nismo priklanjali nečemu zarad nečega. Klapin rep je iskren, originalan i predstavlja nas i našu rodnu Boku, ljude i događaje u njoj (i još masu sitnica) tako da je to naša odrednica, a ne trend i potrebe slušalaca... iako smo se naslušali raznih priča i teorija. I te kako imamo povjerenja u sve ljude koji su u publici dok mi bucamo tekstove. Nedavno smo svirali u Splitu gdje se samo mogu potvrditi prethodne rečenice. - Crna Gora ima malo tržište. Zato, pretpostavljam, nije lako baviti se ovdje hip hopom. No, zato ste sarađivali sa brojnim muzičarima iz regiona. Kakva vas iskustva vežu za beogradske repere? DEDDUH: Teško je povući paralelu između „Sviranja kupcu“ i „Krša i drače“. Ovaj drugi je svakako kvalitetniji iz više uglova... Za prvi album smo imali manje iskustva, znanja, poznanstava... Sad je to sve na nekom „nivou“ pa je i lakše i lagodnije raditi. Nadam se da smo ostvarili očekivanja, to bi mi bilo drago, ipak sve pjesme su napravljene iz našeg sopstvenog ugla, bez mogućnosti uticaja spoljašnih faktora tipa slušaoci, fanovi, političke stranke, sponzori... Who See Klapa je oba albuma napravila za te iste ljude, ali iz nas, a ne iz očekivanja nekog drugog. DEDDUH: Godine marljivog rada su dokaz koliko je teško izbiti na površinu iz ovako male zemlje. Opet, ljude koje smo ugostili na drugom albumu, nismo zvali iz komercijalnih, nego iz razloga potrebe same pjesme. Isto se odnosi i na prvi album. - Prvi, sa ovih prostora, nastupali ste i u Dubrovniku? DEDDUH: Uvijek smo težili miru i prijateljstvu, pa je jedno od osnovnih pravila Klape da nema politički angažovanih tekstova. Ta naša harizma osjetila se i u Dubrovniku gdje smo svirali u februaru 2002. godine - Napravite paralelu između vaša dva albuma? - Nedjeljama ste bili prvi na MTV top listi. To je, zaista, sjajno. Kako je došlo do te saradnje i koliko vam, u praktičnom smislu, i u smislu podstreka, to znači? DEDDUH: Bili smo prvi na, vjerovatno, naj45 RESIDO MONTENEGRO www.c21residomontenegro.com www.century21tivat.com Ref. ID 796 značajnijoj top listi u regionu. To je ogromna satisfakcija. Nasmije nam se brk kad to neko pomene, da se ne lažemo. Takve stvari pomažu u daljem poslovanju i ljudi te ozbiljnije shvataju. Naravno, od toga ti samo bolje može biti. Sad je velika obaveza pred nama jer je nivo kvaliteta porastao (generalno u jugoslovenskoj muzici), a mi se moramo održati u svemu tome. Kao i uvjek, vrijedno radimo. - Vrlo maštovit, neočekivano originalan (za nas od naših u Crnoj Gori) spot za pjesmu Raegeton Montenegro, uspješna je demonstracija i vašeg umijeća i umijeća Zorana Markovića Zonja. Kako je bilo raditi sa njim? DEDDUH: Dobar, dobar... Zonjo je velemajstor u idejama i razmišljanu u pravcu dobrog proizvoda. Iskreno ga preporučujem svima koji žele da imaju dobar spot, a naročito kad je u kombinaciji sa Noyzovom vještinom i talentom. Njih dvojica su tandem iz snova. Sa njim je vrlo lako rabotati, jednostavan je 46 recept. Samo slušaj što Zonjo priča i biće ti drago na kraju, jer su to sve dobronamjerni, iskreni i skoro roditeljski savjeti. Dobar je momak, malo je previsok za svoje godine i obim kao i poprečni presjek. (smijeh) - Saradnja sa Rambom? DEDDUH: Ha, ha... Ima takvih situacija i zabavno je. Gospođe iz banke bacaju freestyle kad me vide... Te situacije su mi vrh! Mnogo češće doživljavam pitanje na sred ulice: „Koliko ste para uzeli?“ i to je strašno. Lično, prijaju mi klinci koji nas hvale, a njihovi roditelji odobravaju i još dodaju koju riječ. To je nagrada. DEDDUH: Logična. - Sada ste, već, muzički ponos nacije ili bar ove moderne, urbane mladosti. Kako se nosite sa tom stečenom slavom i popularnošću? DEDDUH: Vrlo lako. Ne interesuju nas nikakve titule. Sa svim tim ljudima koji nas gledaju kao da smo nešto iznad njih spremni smo da popijemo pivo. Sve isto kao prije. - Šta ste dobili? Nije, valjda, i kod vas kao u onoj Rambovoj pjesmi: „Otkako sam došao do slave i para, puštaju me preko reda da kupim cigara…” - A sad malo o planovima? Radite li već nešto novo? DEDDUH: Planovi su jasni i logični. Idemo dalje u svom stilu (ne mislim na stil da svake pete godine snimimo album). Poenta je da sa „Kršom i dračom“ napravimo dobre svirke, pa da se radi neki spot, a zatim neki singl i album. Ipak o tom potom. Za sada još samo želim da se zahvalim svima vama koji slušate naše rime. Moje mišljenje je da ste vi, ako ne najbrojnija, ono najbolja publika! Nadam se da ćete podržati i nove rep projekte iz Crne Gore koji se spremaju. Svi oni dolaze sa velikom energijom... Ref. ID 654 Ref. ID 785 Ref. ID 725 Ref. ID 726 Your preferred and world’s largest real estate network partner is now in Montenegro! Ваш привилегированный и крупнейший в мире сетевой партнер по торговле недвижимостью теперь и в Черногории! Waterfront Villas, lands - Stone houses Urbanized lands - Investment opportunities New developments Apartments with stunning views... Расположенные на берегу виллы, земельные участки - Каменные дома Участки, включенные в городскую зону Возможности инвестирования Новые застройки Апартаменты с прекрасными видами... Visit us in Tivat! Посетите нас в Тивате! Century21 Resido Montenegro Sales – Rentals – Consulting Property administration & management Address: Trg Kulture 1, Pine 85320 Tivat center - Montenegro Email: contact@c21residomontenegro.com Phone: +382 32 671 327 (office) Mobile: +382 69 146 266 +382 69 146 171 (English, Francais, Srpski) Телефон: +382 69 179 901 (Crnogorski, Ruski) INTERVIEW – Dedduh, a half of Who See Band Masters of ceremonies write their own texts… The latest hype of Montenegrin music scene is hip-hop duo WHO SEE BAND, or guys from Kotor – Dedduh and Noyz. They are sovereigns of live performances, concerts and MTV, but also of hearts of our young population, and of those who rightfully feel young, tired of being taught by sulky, old and washed-out quasi-culture lovers what is right, and what is not, what can and cannot be done, not even in a million years! Thus, WHO SEE keeps many spirits alive. W e suspected that the boys are terribly busy. Chased by fans, hip-hop lovers, in loved girls and – boring journalists! Moreover, just when you think that “they must be giving an interview to someone else some place else” or that “they are playing somewhere else”, or that “they went abroad” just when you need them, they are, actually, busy with – working! People work! You know the joke about Lenin, when he, confidentially and suggestively, gives advice to a young man why he should have both wife and mistress, and says:“ The best thing is when your wife thinks you are at mistress’s, mistress thinks you are with your wife, and you, as a matter of fact – learn, learn and constantly learn!” Well, that’s how almost every single day of these young boys looks like: they work, work and work, and perform all over the region! That is the reason we managed to talk to only one half of the band – Dedduh was little less busy, so he stole some time and talked to us, on his behalf, and on Noyz’s… Here’s what he 48 told us, while Noyz was “slaving at work”: - Why did you choose hip-hop particularly? What was so attractive in that music genre for you? DEDDUH: Hip-hop culture consists of several sub-cultures. Rap is something I dreamed of, believing that someday I could do that. I knew that it took practice, piles of written and than cast away texts (cast to the bin, of course, not next to the bin, since my ecological consciousness has always been well developed)…Gramophones attracted me, but I was well aware that I will never have enough money for them and the records, for all that is necessary… Break dance is cool, but, I swear you, I don’t have talent for it. I missed graffiti because I developed complex from friends who attended art school…And I was self-educated… So… I decided to transfer all my energy and creativity, using pen that cost 20 pfennig ( at that time, currency used in Montenegro) into a notebook that cost 50 pfennig, or a bit more. Later, my parents bought me a computer, so I could make music (rhythm). - We got cents in the meantime. How do you feel now, being the pioneers of hiphop in Montenegro? DEDDUH: It feels great to know that all the hard work “paid off”, and that people know that you contributed to culture in general, however, on the other hand, the bad thing is that we needed to spend all those precious years to make it to here, or to “positive zero”. I wouldn’t exactly say that we are the pioneers of hip-hop in Montenegro. When communism was falling into pieces, Rambo Amadeus did something like that, as well as Koko Kid and Monteniggers… then ten years of blank space, and here we come, Who See Band and album “Playing for the Buyer”. - Well, ok, pioneers after ten years… You write your own texts, but do you produ- ce music by yourself, or…? Or, to rephrase, how did you divide your duties? DEDDUH: By the rule, every master of the ceremony writes his own text. Since the beginning of our work, we rely on our own strengths and talent. Noyz is text writer, graphic designer and video producer. He made many spots, for us and for others, video commercials, covers… Songs are mainly produced by our friend Rhino (Igor Burzan, Podgorica, studio 6th WORLD) who is our guest on several songs on first and second albums. My role is much smaller; besides writing texts, I make a few instrumentals here and there, in my “Verandabeatz”. - Single Boka Boka drew public attention, and announced your popularity. Which other songs you consider successful, to which songs the audience reacted best? And, do you have a song that is special and dear to you, but the audience did not understand nor fully accept it? Actually, I want to know, in what way you “feel the pulse” of public, and do you bother with it at all? DEDDUH: Boka Boka is single made by joint forces of rappers from entire Montenegro. This sentence actually means nothing, however… DJ Mono (Podgorica) and Rhino are the authors of hip-hop radio show “The Coming”, broadcasted every Thursday at 9.00 p.m. from radio Antena M. That legendary, and for us very important show, started broadcasting in 1998, and it still lasts, and will never stop. The Coming Crew and Who See Band began making “big plans”. Later, we all took different paths, but we left behind the result of that cooperation – single Boka Boka. Also, we have never been part of anything in order to gain something. Rap that Band makes is truthful, original and represents us and our home Boka, people and events from Boka (and so much more), so that could be something that defines us, and not the trend, or needs of the audience… - Montenegrin market is small. Therefore, I guess, it is not easy to practice hip-hop here. However, you cooperated with numerous musicians from the region. What experiences do you have with rappers from Belgrade? DEDDUH: Years of diligent work show how hard it is to come to surface coming from such a small country. Then again, we did not call the people who were our guests on our second album, out of commercial reasons, but because our songs needed something like that. The same can be applied for our first album. - You were the first from this region, who played in Dubrovnik? DEDDUH: We have always aimed towards peace and friendship, so one of basic rules of our band is that we don’t have politically engaged texts. The charisma we possess could be felt in Dubrovnik, where we performed in February in 2002, although we listened to all kinds of stories and theories before going there. We honestly believe in every member of our audience, as long as we pop the texts out. We recently played in Split, and that experience can confirm my previous sentences. - Can you compare your first and second album? DEDDUH: It is difficult to compare “Playing for the Buyer” (“Sviranje kupcu”) and “Rock and Thorn” (“Krš i drača”). The second one is surely better from many points of view… We had less experience, less knowledge, less connections when working on first album… Now we rose all on a kind of higher level, so it is easier to work. I hope we fulfilled the expectations, I would be glad if we did; however, all our songs are created from our own point of view, without possibility for outer influences, such as listeners, fans, political parties, sponsors… Who See Band made both albums for the same people, but they came from us, not from someone else’s expectations. 49 A Daimler Brand Novi član vaše porodice. Nova B-Klasa. Savr[en drug na putu za va[e velike i male saputnike sada dolazi sa COLLISION PREVENTION ASSIST-om - bezbjedonosnom inovacijom koja prepoznaje potencijalno opasne situacije i poma/e voza;u prilikom ko;enja. Uz mogu'nost izbora izme]u ;etiri razli;ita dizajna unutra[njosti, omogu'ava vam da uvjek stignete do va[eg odredi[ta bezbjedno i sa stilom. - You held first place on MTV top list for weeks, which is truly great success. How did you start that cooperation, and how much does that cooperation mean to you in practical and motivational sense? DEDDUH: We were first on, probably, most important top list in region. That is such enormous satisfaction. We can’t help smiling when someone mentions that, to tell you the truth. Such accomplishments help you in your further work, and people take you more seriously. Of course, you can only benefit from that. Now we have big responsibility, because the level of quality is higher (in general in entire Yugoslavian music), and we have to keep up in those circumstances. As always, we work hard. - Very creative, unexpectedly original (for us, among other Montenegrin spots) spot for the song Raegeton Montenegro, is successful demonstration of both yours and skill of Zoran Marković Zonjo. What was it like to work with him? DEDDUH: Well, well… Zonjo is grand master in ideas and thinking aimed towards good product. I sincerely recommend him to all those who want to make good spot, 50 especially when joined with skill and talent of Noyz. Two of them are dream team. Zonjo is very easy to work with. The recipe is simple. Just listen what Zonjo says and in the end you will be glad you did, because all he is saying is well-meant, honest, almost parental advice. He is a good fellow, although a bit tall for his age, stature and transverse cut. (laughter) - Cooperation with Rambo Amadeus? DEDDUH: Logical. - Being the music pride of the nation, or at least, of its modern and young part, how do you cope with fame and popularity? DEDDUH: Easily. We are not interested in any titles. We are ready to have a beer with all those people who observe us as someone who is above them. In reality, nothing changed. - What did you gain? Do not tell me that all the benefits are like in Rambo’s song: “Since I became famous, people let me skip the line to buy cigarettes…” DEDDUH: Ha, ha… We actually do have such situations, and it is amusing. Ladies from bank give me freestyle when they see me… Such situations are priceless! More often, people ask me in the street:“ How much money did you get?” and that question annoys me. Personally, I like when kids praise us, and their parents approve, and even add a few words themselves. That is the prize. - Now, tell me something about your plans? Do you work on something new? DEDDUH: Our plans are clear and logical. We keep on in our style (by that, I don’t mean style to publish new album every fifth year). The point is to have some good performances with “Rock and Thorn”, to make a spot, then a single and album. We will cross that bridge when we get to it. For now, I just want to thank all of you who listen to our rhymes. In my opinion, you may not be the largest audience, but you are definitely the best! I hope that you will also support other rap projects from Montenegro that are now being prepared. They are all coming with great energy… Ljetopis Automotive d.o.o., Podgorica, Kralja Nikole 357, tel> 020\648 841 MAESTRAL RESORT & CASINO Relax, play and entertainment In romantic rocky bay of the Montenegrin Riviera, above the charming send beach, lays hotel “Maestral. The name has been taken from the fresh aromatic wind that has been companion of that picturesque rocky coast through the summer months. It has been splashed by the warm sea of the south Adriatic, and leans on the mountain background, which through the wormiest days brings to the sunny coast the freshness of the spring. Hotel offers the high quality of 418 beds in 196 rooms and 18 apartments. All rooms have air condition, safe strongboxes, mini-bars, telephone, TV (possibility of Pay TV). Most of the rooms have the beautiful view on the sea and Internet access. MAESTRAL RESORT & CASINO Odmor, igra i zabava U romantiènom stjenovitom zalivu crnogorskog primorja, iznad ljupke pješèane plaže, nalazi se potpuno obnovljeni hotel “Maestral". Ime nosi po svježem aromatiènom vjetru koji je tokom ljetnih mjeseci stalni pratilac te slikovite stjenovite obale. Zapljuskuje ga toplo more južnog Jadrana, a naslanja se na brdovito zaleðe koje i u najtoplijim mjesecima donosi svježinu proljeæa. Hotel raspolaže sa 418 ležaja u 196 sobi i 18 apartmana najviše kategorije. Sve sobe su klimatizovane i imaju sef, mini-bar, telefon, televizor (moguænost Pay TV). Veæina ima predivan pogled na more i pristup Internetu. Opuštanje i rekreacija "Maestral" vodi brigu i o trenucima potpunog opuštanja. Gosti hotela mogu da iskoriste prednosti kompletne wellness ponude na jednom mjestu. Razni bazeni i sauna centar sa finskom i infracrvenom saunom i turskim i rimskim kupatilom, kozmetièki salon, specijalni tretmani za podmlaðivanje, estetska stomatološka ordinacija, kupke sa masažom, a prije svega vrhunska udobnost, u potpunosti æe vas oèarati. U centru tradicionalne tajlandske masaže "Sa Wann" moæi æete da birate najrazlièitije vrste masaža. Igra i zabava Bez prave, uzbudljive zabave nema ni odmora. Potražiæete je u "Maestralovoj" igraènici koja treperi svjetlima 130 automata za igru, 3 elektronska ruleta, stolova za amerièki rulet, midi punto banco, blek-džek, HIT-ov progresivni draw poker i Texas Hold’em Poker. Na pozornici za priredbe možete vidjeti vrhunske koncerte, kabare i druge zabavne programe. Od 2010. godine obogatili smo našu ponudu redovnim organizovanjem poker turnira. Relaxing and recreation “Maestral” takes care about the moments of total relaxing. Guests of the hotel can use the advantages of the full wellness offer at one place. Different types of pools and sauna center with the Finland and infrared saunas, Roman and Turkish bathroom, cosmetic salon, medical and dentist center, bath massages, and more than anything, there is a great comfort that will bewitch you completely. In the gorgeous center of the traditional Thailand massage “Sa Wann”, we will pamper you with the most different types of massages. Play and entertainment Without the real and exited fun, there is not a real vacation. You can find it in the “Maestral’s” playground that shines with the lights of the 130 slot machines, 3 electric roulettes, as well as American Rulette, Black Jack, Texas Hold’em Poker, Midi Punto Banco and HIT Progressive Draw Poker tables. On the auditorium of spectacles “Theatre” you can see grand concerts, cabarets as well as many other entertainment programs. From 2010 we enhanced our entertainment offer through regular organization of poker tournaments. MAESTRAL Pržno, 85315 Sveti Stefan Montenegro t +382 33 410 108, 410 109 hotel@maestral.info www.maestral.info = Mali oglasi = = jul-septembar, 2012. godine = broj 2 Podgoričko vrelo ljeto HIP HOP Asfaltiranje 2012 Muzički projekat Asfaltiranje, koji je posvećen promociji hip hop žanra, nastao je prošle godine, pod kreativnim vođstvom MC Marka i NVO Metafora. Cilj festivala je okupiti domaće i regionalne muzičke snage hip hop scene, kako bi se i kod nas ojačao autoritet i značaj koji hip hop izraz posjeduje. Asfaltiranje 2012. najavilo je vrelo, zaista vrelo podgoričko muzičko ljeto P rošlogodišnji pilot projekat - festival Asfaltiranje - predstavio se kao ozbiljan muzički hepening koji, u srcu glavnog grada, okuplja stotine mla- dih ljudi, čija strast je muzika u rep izrazu. Ove godine, Asfaltiranje je ozvaničilo start vrelog ljeta, poklapajući se i sa njegovim kalendarskim početkom. Naime, 22. i 23. juna, na terasi Kulturno informativnog centra „Budo Tomović”, niz nastupa imali su crnogorski muzičari, ali i brojni gosti iz Srbije i Hrvatske. Prve večeri nastupio je domaćin MC Marko sa svojim bendom, zatim splitsko-zagrebački hip hop sastav Dječaci i, naravno, Edo Maajka sa Frenkijem i DJ Soulom. Sljedećeg dana, podgorička publika je repovala uz Barsku 100-ku, Rhina & Labiju, Who See klapu i Bad Copy, koji su došli u punom sastavu. Poseban segment ovogodišnjeg Asfaltiranja su grafiti, koje su uživo i na licu mjesta, za vrijeme svirke radili Junk (Bg) i K-13 (Pg). Njihov doprinos je tim veći što su uoči samog festivala uradili memorijalni mural sa likom Nebojše Saveljića Neba, nezaboravnog člana grupe Monteniggers. Nebov lik je, na radost svih koji i sada cijene njegov rad, bio dio scenografije festivala, i na taj način učinjen je iskorak u formiranju i vizuelnog identiteta jednog dobrog, pravog Asfaltiranja! Prepoznavši značaj Asfaltiranja za kulturnu ponudu Glavnog grada, podršku festivalu su dale uspješne kompanije, kao Telekom, i javne institucuje. MC Marko, povodom Asfaltiranja kaže: „Mi imamo misiju! A naša misija je da Asfaltiranje ne bude samo muzička zabava, već i promocija Podgorice kao kulturne destinacije, zatim uključivanje mladih u moderne muzičke trendove, kao i afirmacija kreativnog i kulturnog trenda, koji je, zapravo, zahvatio Crnu Goru, i koji treba održavati, potkrepljivati, čuvati i razvijati…” Očigledno da su MC Marko i NVO Metafora na dobrom, i asfaltiranom, putu! Tome svjedoče zaista impresivna imena hip hop scene, koja su svoja muzička umijeća, ali i nade, stavove, težnje, misli… tj. muzičku filozofiju, podijelila sa ovdašnjom publikom: Edo Maajka, koji uspješno promoviše album Štrajk Mozga, Who See klapa, koja je sa pjesmom Reggaeton Montenegro šest nedjelja prva na MTV top listi Domaćica, a aktuelni album Krš i Drača uspješno promovišu koncertima u Crnoj Gori i regionu; veliki povratak Bad Copy i to baš u Podgorici; Barska 100ka, tačnije Joe Shua Kiz sa aktuelnim albumom... Saznali smo i da MC Marko priprema četvrti studijski album (evo par naslova: Osekni se ft. Sky Wikluh i Ajs Nigrutin i Bugi Vugi ft. Ajs Nigrutin i Boršč). Igor Burzan - Rhino je nastupio sa Labiom i na Asfaltiranju izveo 58 nekoliko numera koje će se naći na njihovom prvijencu… Premijerno u Crnoj Gori, nastupili su Dječaci (Vojko Vrućina, Ivo Sivo i Zondo), rep grupa iz Splita, koji su svojim spotovima na You Tube stekli kultni status i privukli stotine hiljada gledalaca (pjema Narodna - 1.300.000 gledanja!). Specifični su po tome što vrlo jasno, otvoreno i, ko razumije kako treba, duhovito progovaraju o hrvatskoj realnosti, a pri tome ne gube svoju urođenu pozitivnu notu, pa i najteže situacije opisuju sa šarmantnom lakoćom i originalnom prirodnošću… Što je Asfaltiranje učinilo uspješnim? MC Marko, domaćinski, objašnjava: „Projekat Asfaltiranje od starta koristi preciznu metodologiju razvoja, jasno definisanu ideologiju i dijapazon različitih aktivnosti, koje će aktivno uticati na javnu sferu Crne Gore. To je učinilo da Asfaltiranje već postaje jedan od najbrže rastućih kulturnih projekata u regionu!” Uživajte u Podgorici, ASFALTIRANO je! 59 Hot summer in Podgorica Hip-hop – Paving 2012 Music project “Paving”, dedicated to promotion of hip-hop genre, designed last year, under creative leadership of MC Marko and NGO Metaphor. The main objective of the festival is to gather local and regional music forces of the hip-hop scene, in order to empower the authority and importance of hip-hop expression in our region. “Paving 2012,” announced hot, truly hot music summer in Podgorica. L ast year’s pilot project – festival “Paving” – was presented as a serious music happening which, at the very core of the capital city, gathered hundreds of young people, whose passion is music, expressed through hip-hop. This year, “Paving”, coinciding with the calendar beginning of the season, opened the hot summer. On 22nd and 23 June, on the terrace of Cultural informational center “Budo Tomović”, several Montenegrin musicians, together with numerous guests from 60 Serbia and Croatia, presented their work. On the first night, the host MC Marko performed with his band, followed by hip-hop crew “Dječaci” (“The Boys”) from Split and Zagreb, and of course, Edo Maajka with Franky and DJ Soul. The next day, the audience in Podgorica rapped along with band 100 from Bar, Rhino and Labija, “Who See” band and “Bad Copy”, who came in full composition. Special segment of this year’s “Paving” are graffiti, drawn by Junk (from Belgrade) and K-13 (from Podgorica) alive and on the spot, during the concert. Their contribution is even greater, because, on the eve of the festival, they made memorial mural with the face of Nebojša Saveljić Nebo, the unforgettable member of the group “Monteniggers”. Nebo’s face was part of the festival scenery, which made all his fans happy, and in that way, they made a progress in creation of visual identity of a good and real Paving! Some successful companies, such as Crnogorski Telekom, as well as public institutions, who recognized the importance of “Paving” for the cultural offer of the city, supported the festival. On “Paving” MC Marko explained: “We are on a mission! And the mission is to establish “Paving” not only as an entertaining music event, but also to promote Podgorica as cultural destination, to include young people in modern music trend, and affirm creative and cultural trend, which has already, to say the truth, “contaminated” the entire Montenegro, and as such, should be maintained, nurtured and developed…” It is more than obvious that MC Marko and NGO Metaphor are on good and paved way! Some truly impressive names of the hip-hop scene, who shared their music knowledge, as well as hopes, attitudes, aims and thoughts with local audience, can witness that. Edo Maajka, who is successfully promoting his album “The Brain on Strike”, band “Who See”, whose song Reggaeton Montenegro held first place on MTV top list Homemade for six weeks, and whose current album “Rock and Thorn” (“Krš i Drača”) is successfully promoted in concerts in Montenegro and region; great comeback of the band “Bad Copy“, which will specially take place in Podgorica; band 100 from Bar, precisely, Joe Shua Kiz with their latest album…are just some of the names we can expect this year. We have also found out that MC Marko prepares fourth studio album (some of the titles from it are: Blow Your Nose ft. Sky Wikluh and Ice Nigrutin, and Buggy Vugi ft. Ice Nigrutin and Boršč). Igor Burzan – Rhino, with Labia, presented several tracks that will appear on their first album… For the first time in Montenegro, rap group from Split, which gained the cult status with their plays on You Tube and attracted hundreds of thousands of viewers (song “Narodna” had 1.300.000 watches!) called “Dječaci” (“The Boys” - Vojko Vrućina, Ivo Sivo and Zondo), presented themselves. They are specific because they very clearly, openly, and - for those who understand correctly – wittily, talk about Croatian reality, however, never losing their innate positive note, and describe even the most difficult situations with easiness and authenticity… What made “Paving” so successful? MC Marko explains: “The project “Paving” from the very beginning uses precise methodology of development, clearly defined ideology and the wide range of different activities, which will actively affect the public sphere in Montenegro. All of that made “Paving” one of the fastest growing cultural projects in region!” Enjoy in Podgorica, it is all PAVED! 61 www.prvabankacg.com • info@prvabankacg.com Centrala: Bulevar Svetog Petra Cetinjskog 141 Tel: +382 20 409 174 • Fax: +382 20 409 124 FESTIVALSKO VRELO LJETO Hot festival summer pozornica do pozornice! one stage after another! Ljeto u Crnoj Gori? To je: festivalsko raspoloženje, mnogo muzike i igre, teatarske scene na pjacetama i ulicama starih, naših gradova, na obali i uz glas mora, pod plavim nebom ili u sjaju vrelih ljetnjih noći… Summer in Montenegro? It is: festive mood, plenty of music and dance, theatrical stages on squares and streets of our old towns, on coast, with the voice of the sea, under the blue sky, or in the shine of hot nights… Umjetnici i pozorišta iz Crne Gore, umjetnici i pozorišta iz regiona i Evrope, igraju, pjevaju, sviraju i plešu i ovog ljeta za vas! Predstavljamo vam one koji će ovog puta biti u Baru, Budvi, Tivtu i Kotoru: i Liliputanci i Guliver, i labudi sa jezera, i Penelopa i Njegoš i… 68 Artists and theatres from Montenegro, region and Europe, act, sing, play and dance for you this summer! We present you those who will, this time, be guests in Bar, Budva, Tivat and Kotor: both Lilliputians and Gulliver, swans from the lake, Penelope and Njegoš, and… 69 Festivalsko vrelo ljeto – Barski ljetopis More, sunce, pozorište, note… Tekst: Ćazim Nikezić Festival Barski ljetopis ove godine slavi svoj jubilej - 25 godina postojanja! Na ponos Barana, postao je manifestacija sa visoko profesionalnom koncepcijom, o čemu svjedoči sve veći broj učesnika i sve probirljivija i zahtjevnija publika. To je znak da je Festival podigao standarde! F estival Barski ljetopis svojim muzičkim, likovnim, filmskim, književnim i pozorišnim programom, i ovog ljeta obećava pravu mediteransku feštu. Održao se svih ovih godina jer je uvijek uspijevao da okupi poznate i priznate umjetnike iz regiona i šire. Muzički program odavno je zaštitni znak Festivala, a ove godine nam gostuju: Vladimir Domazetović (klavir), Veljko Klenkovski (klarinet), Marko Simović (violina), Jovan Kolundžija (violina), Aleksandra Vojvodić (sopran)… Što se Likovnog programa tiče, na uvid ljubiteljima boja i formi, igre sjenki i svjetla, na otvaranju biće izloženi radovi barskih umjetnika, nastavićemo izložbom fotografija umjetnika iz Francuske, a očekuju nas i neka posebna likovna iznenađenja. U Književnom programu, slavu lijepe riječi i stiha, pronijeće u prvom redu pisci iz regiona, među kojima su: Luko Paljetak (Dubrovnik), Vladimir Martinovski (Skoplje), Dijana Matković (Ljubljana) i još desetak pjesnika i prozaista iz Crne Gore. bude interesantan, jer smo u goste pozvali reprezentativna pozorišta i predstave. Ugostićemo domaće, ali i teatre iz regiona: Narodno pozorište Niš sa dvije predstave, Teatar Rugantino iz Zagreba, Knjaževskosrpski teatar iz Kragujevca, Gradsko pozorište iz Podgorice… Filmski program daje poseban šarm multimedijalnosti barskog Festivala. Ovog ljeta smo odlučili da omogućimo našoj publici mogućnost da, ovdje u Baru, vidi neke od najboljih regionalnih filmskih ostvarenja u protekloj godini. Poseban segment Festivala biće modna revija Fashion show, jer želimo zadovoljiti i interesovanje poklonika mode, jer - ljeto je, zar ne!? Barski ljetopis postaje sve selektivniji, rafiniraniji i stremi sve boljim i kvalitetenijim programima. Cilj je da i Festival i njegovi učesnici uzajamno djeluju tako da podižu ugled jedni drugima, a na radost i zadovoljstvo publike. Barska rivijera ima svoje goste. Mirisi juga, lijepe plaže, gostoprimstvo… jesu zaštitni znak i ovog dijela Crnogorskog primorja. Barski ljetopis će, od 15. jula do 24. avgusta, učiniti sve to ljepšim, trajnijim i značajnijim. Dobro došli u Bar! Potrudili smo se i da Pozorišni program 72 73 Hot festival summer The sea, the sun, theatre, music notes… By: Ćazim Nikezić Festival Bar Chronicles this year celebrates its jubilee – 25 years of existence! Making citizens of Bar very proud, the Festival has become manifestation with highly professional concept, and growing number of participants as well as more and more demanding public, witness that. It is the sign that the Festival has raised its standards! F estival Bar Chronicles, with its music, art, film, literary and theatrical programs, this summer promises true Mediterranean feast. The Festival endured the trial of years, because it has always managed to gather well-known and approved artists from region and abroad. Music program has been festival’s trademark for a long time, and this year we will enjoy in performances of: Vladimir Domazetović (piano), Marko Simović (violin), Jovan Kolundžija (violin), Aleksandra Vojvodić (soprano)… When art program is concerned, for all lo- 74 vers of colours and shapes, light and shadow, we will exhibit works of artists from Bar, then proceed with exhibition of photography by artists from France, and also, some special surprises are awaiting. hosts of local, as well as of regional theatres: National Theatre Niš, with two plays, Theatre Rugantino from Zagreb, PrincelySerbian Theatre from Kragujevac, City Theatre from Podgorica… In Literary program, primarily regional authors will celebrate the fame of beautiful word and verse, to mention a few: Luko Paljetak (Dubrovnik), Vladimir Martinovski (Skoplje), Dijana Matković (Ljubljana), together with around ten more poets and writers from Montenegro. Film program gives special charm to multimedia of Bar Festival. This summer, we decided to give our public here, in Bar, an opportunity to watch some of the best regional film works from last year. We made an effort to make Theatrical program interesting, and thus invited representative theatres and plays. We will be The special segment of the Festival will be Fashion show, because we wish to satisfy even the fashion lovers. It is summer – isn’t it?! The Festival Bar Chronicles becomes more and more selective, refined and aims towards better and more quality programs. The objective is, of both the Festival, and of its participants, to work mutually in order to make each other more respectable, which will be awaited with approval and satisfaction of public. Riviera Bar has its own guests. Smells of the south, beautiful beaches, hospitality…are the trademark of this part of Montenegrin coast. Bar Chronicles, starting on July 15 to August 24, will make it all even more beautiful, longer lasting and of higher importance. Welcome to Bar! 75 Kvalitet za Evropu Company i trio Tritonus (pijanista Bojan Martinović, violinista Miran Begić i čelista Igor Perazić) Festivalsko vrelo ljeto – Budva grad Teatar Festivalski gosti Žana Lekić i Aleksej Molčanov (profesori cetinjske Akademije) nastupiće prilikom otvaranja studentske izložbe, svojih komšija likovnjaka sa Cetinja. Čovjek koji se smije je čovjek koji se ne boji Citat u naslovu preuzet je iz Krčmarice Mirandoline, Karla Goldonija, koja je uz Ribarske svađe i Slugu dvaju gospodara, na ovogodišnjem programu festivala. Ovaj moto reprezentuje poetiku samog Goldonija, koji psihološkim produbljivanjem karaktera komedije dell’arte, komediju približava svakodnevnom i realnom. Sa druge strane, ambivalentnost pozorišnog izraza, kao i života samog, stalna potreba za intelektualnom provokacijom i samopreispitivanjem, za autoironijom koja otvara nove mogućnosti, samo su neke od asocijativnih sugestija da je umjetnost upravo neophodni mentalni ventil za prevazilaženje ograničenja stvarnosti. A prevazilaženje ograničenja stvarnosti je vizija samog festivala. 78 Likovni program: sve boje žute i crne I ovogodišnji likovni program je raznovstan i bogat, a nastaje iz igre bojama Festivala – Sve boje žutog i crnog. Dramski program zalište, podgoričko Crnogorsko narodno i novosadsko Srpsko narodno pozorište. Kazablanke) u režiji Marka Manojlovića (Beogradsko dramsko pozorište). Suviše je opasno živjeti bezbjedno! Ova, na prvi pogled apsurdna rečenica, u Gradu Teatru dobro je izanalizirana što je dovelo do toga da se, ne zastajkujući, ide ka novim izazovima, eksperimentima, do novog, ljepšeg i kvalitetnijeg programa. Za otvaranje i zatvaranje Festivala, pripremili smo još dvije produkcije: Baletski gala koncert u saradnji sa neprevaziđenom Ašhen Ataljanc i Indigo Dušana Premovića, u režiji Branislava Lečića. Festivalska saradnja dovodi u Budvu Kate Kapuralicu, Dubrovačkih ljetnjih igara i Zovem se vetar, Tvrđava teatra iz Smedereva. Ove godine, prvi put na našem Festivalu, tri festivalske produkcije djelo su istog autora - Karla Goldonija. Željeli smo vidjeti kako reditelji sa ovih prostora danas čitaju djela najznačajnijeg reformatora italijanske komedije. Mediteranski duh onog vremena, a sačuvan u našim genima, istražuju mladi, a već afirmisani autori: Jug Radivojević (Krčmarica Mirandolina), Ana Vukotić (Ribarske svađe) i Boris Liješević (Sluga dvaju gospodara). Saradnici na tim projektima su riječko Hrvatsko narodno ka- Mini ciklus Festivala predstaviće mladu i talentovanu Anu Vukotić sa već pomenutim Ribarskim svađama, ali i sa Don Žuanom (Molijer) i Četvrtom sestrom (Januš Glovacki). Nekad smo ih gledali na ekranu, sada na pozornici: Otac na službenom putu (Abdulah Sidran) u režiji Olivera Frljića (Atelje 212), Profesionalac (Dušan Kovačević) u režiji Bogdana Diklića (Satirično kazalište Kerempuh) i Sviraj to ponovo, Sem (po citatu iz čuvene U okviru festivalskog repriznog programa, vidjećemo Kanjoša Macedonovića, Božanstvenu komediju i Konte Zanovića. Uočljiv je trud da svaka predstava ovogodišnjeg Festivala, sa razlogom bude na repertoaru, uz podrazumijevajući kvalitet. I, takođe, uz podrazumijevanje istine da je, zapravo, opasno živjeti bezbjedno! Muzički program Prvi dio programa pripada budvanskim pijanistima, koji su međunarodno afirmisani. Njih troje nam u goste dovode umjetnike iz sredina u kojima trenutno rade, pa će pred budvanskom publikom nastupiti tri kamerna dua: Nikola Vučković i Marko Simović, Grana Đikanović i Giacomo Ferrari, i Jelena Polović i Claudia Goebl. Na otvorenoj sceni ranije smo slušali džez, pa simfonijsku muziku, a ove godine ćemo slušati horove: Jedinstvo (Kotor), Viva Vox (Beograd) i Akademski hor Collegium Musicum (koji će pod dirigentskom palicom Darinke Matić Marović svečano i zatvoriti Festival). U saradnji sa Ambasadom Ukrajine, biće održan koncert sastava Sumy Saxophone Quartet i dueta Viva. Ljubitelji kamerne muzike slušaće duo gitara – Danijela Cerovića i Gorana Krivokapića Sem izložbi u crkvi Santa Marija (izlažu: Izet Alečković, Jelena Papović, Maja Erdeljanin), čekaju nas radionice i performans, sa ciljem da uključe publiku u proces stvaranja: - radionica Oslikaj predstavu omogućiće mladim umjetnicima da afirmišu svoje radove (studenti će dobiti mogućnost da, u toku priprema predstava, crtaju ili slikaju ono što vide). Po igranju svih planiranih produkcija, organizovaće se izložba takmičarskog karaktera. - performans Oslikaj crno žutom i žuto crnom, animiraće publiku u negalerijskom / alternativnom prostoru na Trgu pjesnika. (Ovaj dio likovnog programa korespondira sa komedijama Karla Goldonija: na postavljenim platnima, u bojama Festivala, moći će da učestvuju i slikaju svi zainteresovani.) Na Trgu pjesnika će i svoje karikature izložiti neprevaziđeni Predrag Koraksić Corax. Likovni dio Festivala završiće izložba dokumentarnih i umjetničkih fotografija pod zajedničkim imenom Snovi i stvarnost. Književni program Na Trgu pjesnika ove godine, nastupiće: Dragan Radulović, Slobodan Tišma, Lena Ruth Stefanović, Borivoje Adašević, Gojko Čelebić, Uglješa Šajtinac, Ivančica Đerić, Dragan Velikić, Snježana Kordić, Ksenija Popović… Poseban nastup imaće i Organizacija The Books of Knjige, a biće upriličeno i veče posvećeno djelu Vladimira Vukićevića. 79 Hot festival summer – Theater city Budva We used to watch those on screen, and now we can expect them on stage: Father on a business trip (Abdulah Sidran) directed by Oliver Frljić, The Professional (Dušan Kovačević), directed by Bogdan Diklić (Satiric theatre Kerempuh) and Play It Again, Sam (based on quotation from famous Casablanca) directed by Marko Manojlović (Dramatic theatre from Belgrade). A man who laughs is a man who is not afraid This year’s, 26th Theater city Budva motto is:“ You find this funny, don’t you?!” because coproduction cycle is dedicated to comedy, whose catharsis power has long been understood! The quote in headline is taken from Inn keeping girl Mirandolina, by Carlo Goldoni, which is together with Fishermen’s Disputes and Two Maters’ Servant, on this year’s festival programme. This motto represents poetics of Goldoni himself, who neared comedy to daily reality, by psychological deepening of characters in comedy dell’arte. On the other hand, ambivalence of theatrical expression, as well as ambivalence of life itself, constant need for intellectual provocation and self-questi- oning, for auto-irony that opens new possibilities, are just few of associative suggestions that art is actually necessary valve for overcoming limits of reality. Moreover, overcoming limits of reality is the vision of the festival. Festival cooperation brings to Budva Kate Kapuralica, from Summer plays from Dubrovnik, and My name is wind, by Fortress theatre from Smederevo. As part of festival repetition program, we will see plays Kanjoš Macedonović, Divine Comedy and Konte Zanović. Theatrical program It is too dangerous to live safely! This, at first sight absurd sentence, thoroughly analyzed in Theatre City, led to advancing towards new challenges, experiments, without stopping, to achieve new, better and more quality program. This year, for the first time in our Festival, tri festival productions are plays by the same author – Carlo Goldoni. We wanted to see how local directors today read works of the most significant reformer of Italian comedy. Young, yet already affirmed authors research mediterranean spirit of his time, kept in our genes: Jug Radivojević (Inn keeping girl Mirandolina), Ana Vukotić (Fishermen’s Disputes) and Boris Liješević (Two Masters’ Servant). Croatian national theater from Rijeka, Montenegrin national theater from Podgorica and Serbian National theater from Novi Sad, also cooperate on this projects. For opening and closing of Festival, we prepared two more productions: Ballet gala concert, in cooperation with magnificent Ašen Ataljanc, and Indigo by Dušan Premović, directed by Branislav Lečić. Mini cycle of Festival will present young and talented Ana Vukotić with already mentioned “Fishermens’ Dispute”, but also with “Don Juan” (Molier) and “Fourth Sister” (Janus Glovacki). 80 We made an effort to prove that each play of this year’s Festival is put on stage for a reason, each possessing undisputable quality. In addition, with understanding the truth that living safely is, actually, dangerous! Music program The first part of the program belongs to pianists from Budva, who are already internationally recognized. Three of them bring us guest artists from the places they currently work at, so the audience in Budva will have a chance to hear: Nikola Vučković and Marko Simović, Grana Đikanović and Giacomo Ferrari, and Jelena Polović and Claudia Goebl. On open scene, we used to listen to jazz and even symphonic music, but this year we will listen to choirs: Jedinstvo (Kotor), Viva Vox (Belgrade) and Academic choir Collegium Musicum (which will, conducted by Darinka Matić Marović, solemnly close the Festival). In cooperation with Ukrainian embassy, a concert of band Sumy Saxophone Quartet and duo Viva, will be held. Fans of chamber music will listen to guitar duo – Danijel Cerović and Goran Krivokapić, and trio Tritonus (pianist Bojan Martinović, violinist Miran Begić and cellist Igor Perazić). Guests of the Festival Žana Lekić and Aleksej Molčanov (professors on Academy from Cetinje) will perform in opening of exhibition, of their neighboring students of painting from Academy. Art program: all colours of yellow and black This year’s art program is diverse and rich, and it was created from playing with painting colours of the Festival – All colours of yellow and black. Beside exhibitions in Santa Maria church (exhibitors will be Izet Alečković, Jelena Popović, Maja Erdeljanin), some workshops and performances will be waiting for us, with aim to include the audience in the creative process: - workshop Paint the Play will empower young artists to affirm their work (students will get a chance to, during preparations for plays, draw or paint what they see). After the end of all plays, an exhibition with competitive character will be organized. - Performance Paint black with yellow, and yellow with black, will animate the public in non-gallery/alternative space on Poet’s Square. (This part of art programme is in coordination with comedies of Carlo Goldoni: on set canvases, in colours of the Festival, anyone who is interested will have a chance to take part and paint something). - Extraordinary Predrag Koraksić Corax will exhibit his caricatures on Poet’s Square. Art segment of the Festival will be closed by exhibition of documentary and artistic photography under mutual name Dreams and Reality. Literary program This year on Poet’s Square, the following artists will take part: Dragan Radulović, Slobodan Tišma, Lena Ruth Stefanović, Borivoje Adašević, Gojko Čelebić, Uglješa Šajtinac, Ivančica Đerić, Dragan Velikić, Snježana Kordić, Ksenija Popović… Organization The Books of Knjige will have special performance, and there will be organized evening dedicated to work of Vladimir Vukićević. 81 We invite you to experience unique feeling in unspoiled nature beauty, in the surrounding of Durmitor massif, its lakes, rivers and canyons. These resources make Zabljak one of the most beautiful mountain resorts in the Balkans. ABOUT HOTEL Respecting nature and environmental values, hotel SOA has been built at Žabljak, in the very heart of the National park Durmitor. Whether you are on a business trip, a romantic weekend or on a holiday with your family, Hotel offers you eight rooms and 10 suites that provide complete comfort. With a magnificent view of Durmitor massif, by fireplace, enjoy delicious meals and a selection of various desserts. Address: National park Durmitor 84220 Zabljak, Montenegro Tel: +382 (0)52 360 110 Fax: +382 (0)52 360 111 Mob: +382 (0)69 151 152 Email: info@hotelsoa.com Web: www.hotelsoa.com hot festival summer Tivat, Montenegro Dance Festival festivalsko vrelo ljeto Tivat, Montenegro Dance Festival Zaplešimo! LET’S DANCE! By: Vojislav Kaluđerović Tekst: Vojislav Kaluđerović Tivatski Montenegro Dance Festival, šesti po redu, trajaće ovog puta do kraja juna. Popularizacijom plesa animira se publika i doprinosi turističkoj ponudi Tivta M ontenegro Dance Festival je takmičarskog karaktera i namjerno se organizuje krajem juna, kao vjesnik kulturnih dešavanja i vrelih dana koji čekaju Tivćane i sve njihove goste. Učesnici će se takmičiti u više vrsta plesa: klasični balet, hip hop, folklor, latino plesovi, tap, contemporary... Osim plesa, žiri će ocjenjivati i nagrađivati i koreografije i kostime. Crnogorski plesni festival je više od festivala, jer organizator uz plesne performanse, sa zadovoljstvom sve goste upoznaje sa jednom od najljepših obala na Sredozemlju – Crnogorskim primorjem i, makar dok Festival traje, pruža ugođaj jedinstvenog mediteranskog načina života. Uz to, Tivćanima je gostoprimstvo oduvijek jača strana. A u goste im dolaze: - Škola klasičnog baleta MOSKVICH, Rusija - KUD Plana, Velika Plana, Srbija - Ansambl EXCLUSIVE, Rusija - Ansambl Mitevi, Makedonija 86 - Ansambl SOLNESHKO, Rusija - Studio orijentalnog pleas AMIRA, Boshkortostan - Koregrafski ansambl MOZAIK, Irkutsk - Folk ansambl OMSK, Rusija - Ansambl GEST, Poljska - Grupa NOVAYA VERSIA, Rusija - Enigma, Tivat – Crna Gora - ŠPK Romantik, Mostar – Bosna i Hercegovina Posljednja, Gala veče, organizovaće se na Ljetnjoj pozornici Centra za kulturu Tivat, i tada će najbolji u svim vrstama plesa, dobiti zaslužene nagrade. Zato, dođite da plešemo zajedno! Sixth Montenegro Dance Festival from Tivat, this time will last until end of June. The public will be animated by popularization of dance, all of which contributes to Tivat’s tourist offer. M ontenegro Dance Festival has competitive character, and is deliberately organized at the end of June, as announcement of cultural events and hot days that are expecting citizens of Tivat and all their guests. Participants will compete in several kinds of dance: classical ballet, hip-hop, folklore, Latino dances, tap, contemporary dances… Beside dance, the jury will also evaluate and reward choreographies and costumes. Montenegrin dance festival is more than simply a festival, because the organizer, besides dance performances, offers with pleasure, to his guests, meeting with one of the most beautiful Mediterranean coasts – Montenegrin coast, and gives them the opportunity to feel, for at least while Festival lasts, the unique Mediterranean lifestyle. People from Tivat have always been known for their hospitality. And their guests this time will be: School for classical ballet MOSKVICH, Russia KUD Plana, Velika Plana, Serbia Ensemble EXCLUSIVE, Russia Ensemble Mitevi, Macedonia Ensemble SOLNESHKO, Russia Studio for oriental dance AMIRA, Boshkortostan Choreographic ensemble MOZAIK, Irkutsk Folk ensemble OMSK, Russia Ensemble GEST, Poland Group NOVAYA VERSIA, Russia ENIGMA, Tivat – Montenegro ŠPK Romantik, Mostar – Bosnia and Herzegovina The last, gala night, will take place on Summer stage of Cultural center from Tivat, and the best competitors in all kinds of dance will receive their earned prizes. So, come and dance with us! 87 Budva festivalsko vrelo ljeto - Tivat, Purgatorije 2012. Po mediteranski U čast kulture i umjetnosti Mediterana, od 1. jula do 15. septembra, održava se VIII festival mediteranskog teatra Purgatorije 2012. Tekst: Milena Radojević 90 D đite u Tivat! Jer, Centar za kulturu o organizovao je čak 70 programa za domaću i gostujuću publiku na Crnogorskom primorju. Bogati pozorišni program mediteranskog manira, kao što je publika već navikla, nudi mnogo toga u svom takmičarskom dijelu: kultnu predstavu Ateljea 212 - „Otac na službenom putu”, „Lukreciju ili Ždero” i „Sumnjivo lice”, Jagoša Markovića (Jugoslovensko dramsko pozorište), produkcije Slovenskog narodnog gledališča, Dubrovačkih ljetnjih igara, HNK Rijeka... Vašem likovnom ukusu i sudu, biće pred- stavljen čitav niz likovnih izložbi, na čelu sa izložbom Dušana Petričića, ilustratora i karikaturiste, sa kojim su odrastale generacije. Kniževni program počeće književnom večeri Davida Albaharija. Kanada u Tivtu Poseban segment Purgatorija jesu Dani Kanade u Tivtu, pod pokroviteljstvom Ambasade Kanade, a zamišljen je kao okupljanje umjetnika koji su svojim životom i radom vezani za naše podneblje i Kanadu, državu koju, ipak, ne poznajemo dovoljno. Ovo će biti prilika da bar donekle upoznamo lice njene kulture i u tome će nam pomoći: Margaret Atvud, Dušan Petričić, David Albahari, Dragana Varagić... Premijere derne dramaturgije: horske scene koje se smjenjuju sa monolozima (klasika), a izvode se u mjuzikl i kabare stilu. Ovaj neobični spoj, u režiji Dragane Varagić, iznijeće na svojim glumačkim plećima: Dubravka Vukotić, Tanja Bošković, Ivana Mrvaljević, Kristina Stevović, Branka Femić i studenti cetinjske Akademije. Prvu premijeru u svojoj produkciji, Centar priprema za 28. jul (reprize 29. i 30. jula). Predstava „Penelopijada”, po tekstu Margaret Atvud, priča je iz Hada, ali iz perspektive XXI vijeka. „Penelopijada” integriše strukturu klasične grčke drame i stil mo- „Čovjek iz Lemura” (premijera 12. septembra, reprize 13. i 14. septembra) druga je premijera tivatskog Centra za kulturu. Adaptaciju Servantesovog „Don Kihota” uradio je Erol Kadić, koji potpisuje i režiju. Čovjek iz Lemura sjedi u jednom od kru- gova Danteovog pakla i, čekajući suđenje Svete crkve, svojim pričama o prijateljstvu, ljubavi, slobodi, vjeri, nastoji ubijediti izgubljene duše da mogu biti bolji, ljepši, mudriji, duhovitiji... Žanrovski, komad je crna komedija, a realizuje se u formi mjuzikla. Predstava će, vjeruju u ansamblu, natjerati i melanholika da se smije. A ansambl mnogo obećava: Vlastimir Đuza Stojiljković, Mladen Nelević, Boro Stjepanović, Slobodan Boda Ninković, Julija Milačić, Emir Ćatović... 91 hot festival summer – Tivat, Purgatory 2012 Mediterranean way By: Milena Radojević C ome to Tivat! Because, Cultural center has organized no less than 70 programs for local and guest public on Montenegrin coast. Rich theatrical program in Mediterranean manner, just like the public is used to, offers a lot in its competitive segment: cult play of Atelje 212 – “Father on a Business Trip”, “Lukrecia or Ždero” and “Suspicious person”, Jagoš Marković (Yugoslav dramatic theatre), production of Slovenian nation92 Atwood, Dušan Petričić, David Albahari, Dragana Varagić… Premieres The first premiere in its own production, Cultural center prepares for July 28 (repetitions on July 29 and 30). The play “Penelopysation”, based on the text by Margaret Atwood, is story from Hell, but also from the perspective of XXI century. “Penelopysation” is integrating the structure of classical Greek drama and the style of modern dramaturgy: choir scenes followed by monologues (classic), performed in the style of musical and cabaret. This unusual mix, directed by Dragana Varagić, al theatre, Summer plays from Dubrovnik, Croatian national theatre from Rijeka… Canada in Tivat A whole line of art exhibitions will be presented in front of your artistic taste and judgment, the first being exhibition by Dušan Petričić, illustrator and caricaturist, with whose work whole generations grew up. Special segment of Purgatory are Days of Canada in Tivat, under patronage of Canadian embassy, imagined as gathering of artists whose lives and work are connected both to our region, and to Canada, a country we still know little about. This will be perfect opportunity to get to know the face of culture in Canada, and in that venture we will get help from Margaret Literary program will begin with literary evening of David Albahari. In honor of Mediterranean culture and art, from July 1 to September 15, VIII festival of Mediterranean theatre Purgatory 2012 will take place. will skillfully perform Dubravka Vukotić, Tanja Bošković, Ivana Mrvaljević, Kristina Stevović, Branka Femić and students from Academy in Cetinje. “A Man from Lemur” (premiere on September 12, repetitions on September 13 and 14) is another premiere of Cultural centre from Tivat. Erol Kadić adapted Cervantes’ “Don Quixote”, and also directed this play. A man from Lemur sits in one of the circles of Dante’s hell, and waiting for the trial by Saint church, attempts to convince lost souls that they can become better, more beautiful, wiser, wittier, with his stories about friendship, love, freedom, faith… By its genre, it is black comedy, realized in form of musical. This play, as the ensemble believes, will make even melancholic man to laugh. Moreover, ensemble itself is promising: Vlastimir Đuza Stojiljković, Mladen Nelević, Boro Stjepanović, Slobodan Boda Ninković, Julija Milačić, Emir Ćatović… 93 FESTIVALSKO VRELO LJETO - KOTOR ART 2012 Umjetnost će okupirati sve pjace! Tekst: Olga Žulović, Foto: Slaven Vilus Spektakularnim „Labudovim jezerom” na štulama, ulični teatar La Terra Nuova iz Peruđe, otvoriće na Trgu od oružja ovogodišnji Međunarodni festival KotorArt i, jubilarni, XX Kotorski festival pozorišta za djecu M eđunarodni festival KotorArt 2012, počeće 1. jula. Do 14. avgusta, u 45 festivalskih dana, više od 1000 umjetnika i djece, izvešće 96 programa. I ove godine, Festival će imati segmente: Dječji festival, Don Brankove dane muzike, KotorArtTeatar, Pisanje grada, Radionicu arhitekture i Pjacu od filozofa. 96 Od 1 - 10. jula, kada će, simbolično, ključevi grada biti u rukama djece, premijerno će biti izvedeno sedamdeset i tri programa: 15 profesionalnih pozorišnih predstava, 33 programa dječjeg stvaralaštva, 6 teorijskih i 8 animacionih programa, kao i 11 umjetničkih radionica. Na Kotorskom festivalu pozorišta za djecu nastupiće više od 280 profesionalaca, i to u hit predstavama poput „Labudovog jezera”, italijanskog tetra La Terra Nuova, „Afričke bajke”, u koprodukciji teatara iz Zimbabvea i Austrije, kao i u predstavi „Pinokio” iz Francuske, koja je više puta nagrađivana. Sve to je povodom jubileja ove najznačajnije manifestacije, posvećene pozorišnom Don Brankovi dani muzike, XI po redu, na program su od 13. jula do 13. avgusta. Ugostiće umjetnike iz 14 zemalja. Nastupiće 3 orkestra sa 6 dirigenata, 40 solista i kamerni sastavi, među kojima su neprikonovene zvijezde današnjice - Miša Majski i Denis Macuev. Publika će biti u prilici da čuje izvođenje preko 100 muzičkih djela, što je oko 20 sati najkvalitetnijeg umjetničkog muzičkog preograma. I ove godine studenti akademija sa Cetinja ispisivaće grad kroz radionice Pisanje grada. „Tama svjetlosti – Upotrebljiva umjetnost” je festivalska laboratorija kroz koju će, tokom šest dana, studente cetinjskih akademija voditi slovenački reditelj Marko Bulc. Osnov za ispisivanje pitanje je koliko umjetnost može biti upotrebljiva u kontekstu zahtjeva kapitalističke mašine naše epohe? Odgovore do kojih dolaze studenti i njihov mentor, vidjećemo na završnoj prezentaciji 28. jula. Izvršni producent projekta je Fakultet dramskih umjetnosti sa Cetinja. KotorArTeatar će, od 20. jula do 11. Avgusta, sem reprize predstave „Njegoš, vatre”, rađene po motivima Njegoševe „Luče Mikrokozma”, a u režiji Radmile Vojvodić i Paola Magellija, imati i tri premijere: Krležinu „Leda”, u koprodukciji sa Zagrebačkim kazalištem mladih i Zetskim domom sa Cetinja - režija Anice Tomić; „Guliver” u režiji Petra Pejakovića, u cjelosti produkcija Kotor Art-a, i „Egzistenciju” Radmile Vojvodić, po tekstu Edvarda Bonda, koja je koprodukcija sa Crnogorskim narodnim pozorištem. Na međunarodnoj ljetnjoj školi arhitekture Kotor APSS (Arhitectural Prison Summer School) pojaviće se najznačajnija imena iz te oblasti, koji će u prostoru starog kotorskog zatvora (Apsa), zajedno sa studentima promišljati o prostoru i arhitekturi. Novac predviđen za smještaj učesnika, iskoristiće se za adaptaciju tog starog austrougarskog zdanja, kako bi se podstakla svijest o razvoju „kulturnog turizma” i upotrebi ovakvih resursa. Kotor, kao jedinstvena (arhitektonska) inspiracija, pomoći će studentima da predstave svoje radove tokom “Open stvarlaštvu za djecu i mlade u Jugoistočnoj Evropi. Prison Night”. Ljetnja škola arhitekture, realizuje se u saradnji sa DVARP – om iz Podogorice i ORIS - om iz Zagreba, a završiće 14. avgusta konferencijom „Crnogorski dani Orisa” sa oko 400 učesnika. Pjaca od filozofa će u svom teorijskom diskursu, upriličiti susret sa Antoniom Negriem, jednim od, sigurno, najznačajnijih ličnosti današnjice u svijetu političke teorije i filosofije. Predavanje A. Negria je predviđeno za 11.avgust. Završetak Međunarodnog festivala KotorArt 2012. obilježiće 13. i 14. avgusta dvije predstave u francusko - italijanskoj koprodukciji, rađene upravo po Negrijevim tekstovima “Trilogy of Critics”, a u režiji Barbare Nicolier. Ovogodišnji program Kotor Art-a je, uvjereni smo, najljepši razlog da ljeto provedete na crnogorskom primorju. Pardon, na kotorskim pjacetama! 97 hot festival summer - Kotor Art 2012 All the Piazzas will be Occupied with Art! Street theatre La Terra Nuova from Perugia with its spectacular “Swan Lake” on stilts will open, on Square of Arms on July 1, this year’s International Festival KotorArt and jubilee, XX Kotor Festival of Theatre for Children. by: Olga Žulović, Photo: Slaven Vilus I nternational festival KotorArt 2012 will begin on July 1, and last until August 14. During 45 festival days, over 1 000 artists and children will present 96 programs. This year, the festival will also consist of its recognizable segments: Festival for Children, Don Branko’s Music Days, KotorArt Theatre, The Writings of the Town, Architectural Workshop and Square of Philosophers. From July 1 to July 10, when, symbolically, the keys of the town will be in children’s hands, total of 73 programs will have their premieres, out of which 15 professional theatrical plays, 33 programs of art for children, 6 theoretical and 8 animation programs, as well as 11 artistic workshops. Over 280 professionals in hit plays, such as “Swan Lake” by Italian theatre La Terra Nuova, “African Fairytales” – co-production of theatres from Zimbabwe and Austria, “Pinocchio”, multiple times awarded play from France, will perform on Kotor Theatre Festival for Children all in honour of jubilee of this most important manifestation dedicated to theatrical creative work for children and young people in South-eastern Europe. XI Don Branko’s Days of Music, from July 13 to August 13, will entertain artists from 14 countries. Three orchestra with 6 conductors will perform, along with 40 soloists and chamber ensembles, among which are true stars of today’s world of artistic 98 music - Miša Majski and Denis Macuev. Audience will have the chance to hear over 100 works, which is around 20 hours of the highest quality artistic music. KotorArt Theatre will have, from July 20 to August 11, three premieres and one repetition of theatrical play “Njegoš, the fires”, based upon motifs from “Luča Mikrokozma” by Petar II Petrović Njegoš, directed by Radmila Vojvodić and Paolo Magelli. “Leda” by Krleža, will be presented in co-production of Theatre of Young People from Zagreb and Theatre of Zeta from Cetinje, directed by Anica Tomić. Play “Gulliver”, directed by Petar Pejaković is entirely produced by KotorArt, and play “Existence” (based on text by Edvard Bond) directed by Radmila Vojvodić, will be realized in co-production with Montenegrin National Theatre. This year also, students of artistic academies from Cetinje, will write all over town through workshops of “Writings of the Town”. “The Darkness of the Light – Usable Art”, is festival laboratory through which, during six days, Slovenian director Marko Bulc will lead students of academies from Cetinje. How usable can art be in the context of requests of capitalistic machine of our epoch? Students and their mentor will give us the answers they got, on final presentation on July 28. Executive producer of this project is Academy of Drama from Cetinje. In International Summer School of Architecture Kotor APSS (Architectural Prison Summer School), some of the most significant names in this area will appear, and together with students, consider questions of space and architecture. Money taken for accommodation of participants will be used for adaptation of this old building, in order to enhance consciousness about development of “cultural tourism” and usage of such resources. Kotor, as unique (architectural) inspiration, will help students to present their works during “Open Prison Night”. Summer School of Architecture, realized in co-operation with DVARP from Podgorica and ORIS from Zagreb, will be finished on August 14 with conference “Montenegrin Days of Oris” with approximately 400 participants. Square of Philosophers, with its theoretical discourse, will organize meeting with Antonio Negri, who is surely one of the most significant names in today’s world of political theory and philosophy. His lecture is foreseen for August 11, and International Festival KotorArt 2012 will be, on August 13 and 14, closed by two plays in FrenchItalian co-production, created upon Negri’s texts “Trilogy of Critics”, directed by Barbara Nicolier. We strongly believe that this year’s program of KotorArt Festival is sufficient reason for you to spend your summer vacation on Montenegrin coast… Kvalitetom do vas... Preduzeće za proizvodnju, promet i usluge, export-import Humci 29, Cetinje, Crna Gora Tel. +382 41 / 238-232, GSM +382 67 504 378 KO BI TO REKAO? U PEĆINI SVETILIŠTE Tekst: Doc. dr Goran Barović Fotografija: NTO Pritisnuti nevoljama vremena u kojima su živjeli i odlično razumijevajući strahopoštovanje koje tajnovita mjesta izazivaju u ljudima, Sv.Vasilije Ostroški i arhimandrit Simeon Popović, osnovali su manastire u - pećinama Č injenica je da je čovjek, još od praistorije, shvatio dobre strane pećina koje je otkrivao u svom okruženju. Sem što su mu uglavnom pružale sklonište, još nevješt gradnji, a ipak zamišljen nad prirodom sopstvenog trajanja i uznemiren pojavama oko sebe, čovjek je u pećinama formirao i svoje prve bogomolje o čemu svjedoče sačuvani crteži i drugi tragovi ljudskog postojanja i djelovanja u dalekoj prošlosti. Vremenom se čovjek mijenjao, postajao moćniji i sigurniji, potčinjavajući sebi i svojim potrebama gotovo sve što je nalazio u okruženju i prirodi. Pećine nije zaboravio, samo što danas one imaju brojne, različite svrhe: turistički uređeni objekti, skloništa, skladišta, liječilišta, mjesta za proizvodnju gljiva i sl. Pojedine pećine, tj. speleološki objekti, su i u našoj ranijoj prošlosti dobili specifičnu upotrebnu dimenziju. Naravno, zbog specifičnosti vremêna koja su za nama i prelamanja različitih istorijskih iskustava na ovom prostoru. Tako su pojedini speleološki objekti, pod silom istorijskih okolnosti, pretvoreni u svetilišta – u njima su podignuti manastiri! Same pećine oduvijek su kod ljudi izazivale strahopoštovanje. Za njih su vezivali nevjerovatne događaje, pripisivali im natprirodne moći, u njih smiještali vile i vještice, svece i bogove, i mnoga druga nadljudska bića. Dovoljno uman da iskoristi efekat koji pećine izazivaju u kolektivnoj svijesti i spoznaji, Vasilije Jovanović je podigao ma102 nastir u pećini na litici! Nema sumnje da je kod vjernika izazvao dodatno poštovanje, uzbuđenje i ushićenje, jer i danas ovaj manastir, i zbog mjesta gdje je sagrađen, oduzima dah! štovanjem, pohode i mnogi inovjerci. U ljudskoj prirodi je vječita težnja za srećom, a manastir Ostrog, usađen u ostrošku liticu, i na sami pogled budi nadu i radost života. U tome su svi ljudi jednaki. Prema narodnom predanju, Vasilije Jovanović - kasnije Sv. Vasilije Ostroški, imao je namjeru da manastir osnuje u Milića pećini kod sela Zagorka, ili na crkvištu u selu Drenoštica (Pješivci), ali se, ipak, odlučio za jednu okapinu u Ostroškim gredama, u kojoj su već živjeli neki isposnici. Možda poučen ostroškim primjerom, u selu Dajbabe, nedaleko od Podgorice, arhimandrit Simeon Popović, takođe osniva manastir u pećini. Na njegovu odluku je, vjerovatno, uticalo i to što u to vrijeme pored Ostroških greda nije bilo puta, a đe nema puta, manje je neprijatelja. Sa druge strane, ako bi neprijatelji i došli do manastira, sa njegove pozicije u liticama, lakše se mogao braniti. I bio je u pravu: tokom ratova koji su protutnjali ovim prostorom, neprijatelj je stizao pod Ostrog, ali je i odbrana manastira bila žestoka. Manastir Ostrog podignut je u okapini čije dimenzije danas ne možemo precizno odrediti, jer je tokom njegove izgradnje i renoviranja dosta toga zazidano i prezidano. Osnovan je u drugoj polovini XVII vijeka. Manastir je u nekoliko navrata renoviran i dograđivan, pa današnji izgled tek podsjeća na njegovo prvobitno stanje. Ovaj manastir, u kojem počivaju mošti Sv. Vasilija Ostroškog, predstavlja jedno od naših najposjećenijih svetilišta. Iako je Ostrog manastir pravoslavnih vjernika, njegova veličina je i u tome što ga, sa dubokim po- Kraj je XIX vijeka, još su vremena smutna i čudna, a vjeru treba ispovijedati za spas svoga naroda, te se on na to odlučuje, iskoristivši prostor neobične, velike pećine sa tri kanala. Glavni kanal je najveći i u njemu se nalazi oltar. Otprilike pet, šest metara od ulaza, i lijevo i desno su sporedni kanali. Kanal na desnoj strani je veći i stepenasto se spušta ka dvorani dimenzija: 3 m x 3 m x 5 m. Lijevi kanal je manji, a i on se završava omanjom dvoranom. Zidovi i svodovi u pećini - manastiru ukrašeni su crkvenim slikama, a u cijelom objektu je, naravno mnogo kasnije, razvedena i rasvjeta. Zato je razgledanje manastirskih svetinja i dobara mnogo ugodnije. Sa obje strane ulaza nalaze se zvonici povezani krovnom konstrukcijom. Ona je ujedno nadstrešica ulaza u pećinu – manastir Dajbabe. Naravno, specifičnom utisku o ovom manastiru, od početka doprinosi tajanstvenost pećinske dubine, koliko i mudra odluka njegovog osnivača Simeona. 103 Who would tell? Monastery Dajbabe Jovanović – later called Saint Vasilije Ostroški, intended to build a monastery in Milića cave, near village Zagorak, or on the church ground in village Drenoštica (Pješivci), however, he opted for one gutter in Ostrog trenches, where some hermits have already lived. Monastery Ostrog His decision probably was influenced by the fact that there was no road in that time, near Ostrog trenches, and where there is no road, enemies are rare. On the other hand, even if the enemies reached the monastery, with its position among cliffs, he could defend the monastery easier. And he was right: during all the wars that thundered over this area, enemy came under Ostrog, but the defense was fierce. Sacred place in the cave Text by: PhD Goran Barović By: Doc. dr Goran Barović Photo: TO Podgorica, NTO Oppressed by troubles of the time they lived in, clearly understanding awe that secret places cause in people, Saint Vasilije Ostroški and archimandrite Simeon Popović, founded monasteries in – caves. T he fact is that man, ever since prehistoric times, understood advantages of the caves he discovered in his surrounding. Man, still lacking skills in construction, yet pensive over the nature of his own life and disturbed by phenomena surrounding him, used the caves not only as a shelter, but also as places for the first temples, which can be proved by remains of drawings and other traces of human existence and work in faraway past. In time, man changed, becoming more potent and secure, subordinating to himself and to his own needs, everything he ever found in nature and his surrounding. He never forgot caves, only that they have 104 numerous, different purposes nowadays: tourist settlements, shelters, storages, health resorts, mushroom growing sites, and so on. Certain caves, or to be precise, speleological objects, got specific dimension of usability in our past. Of course, that happened due to specificity of times behind us, and due to overlapping of different historic experiences in this area. Therefore, certain speleological objects, under the pressure of historic circumstances, were turned into sacred places – monasteries were built in them! The caves themselves have always caused awe in people. They associated amazing events with caves, attributed them with supernatural powers, placed fairies and witches inside the caves, saints and gods, and many more superhuman creatures. Wise enough to use the effect caves have on collective consciousness and knowledge, Vasilije Jovanović built a monastery in the cave on a cliff! No doubt, that he provoked additional respect, thrill and excitement among believers, because even nowadays this monastery is breathtaking, partly due to the spot it was built on! According to popular oral report, Vasilije Ostrog monastery was built in gutter whose dimensions today cannot be precisely determined, because during its foundation and renovating, a lot was walled and built over. The monastery was found in the second half of XVII century. It was renovated and annexed on several occasions, so today’s appearance barely reminds of its original state. This monastery, where relics of Saint Vasilije Ostroški rest, represents one of our most visited sacred places. Although monastery Ostrog is monastery of Christian orthodox believers, its greatness lies in the fact that, even members of other religions come here, paying deep respect. Eternal quest for happiness is innate to human nature, and Ostrog monastery, planted in Ostrog cliff, even when one just casts a look at it, awakens the hope and joy of life. And that’s where all people are equal at. Maybe taught by example of Ostrog, archimandrite Simeon Popović, also founded a monastery in cave, in village called Dajbabe, not far from Podgorica. XX century is nearing its end, times are insecure and strange, and people should confess the religion for their own salvation, so he makes a decision to build, using the space of this unusual, big cave composed of three channels. The main channel is the largest one, and the altar is situated there. Approximately five to six meters from the entrance, on right and left side, are secondary channels. Channel on the right is bigger and gradually lands towards the hall with the following dimensions: 3m x 3m x 5m. Left channel is smaller, and it ends with a little hall. Walls and ceilings in the cave-monastery are ornamented with church paintings, and in the entire object, electric lights are installed – of course, much later. That makes watching monastery sacred belongings much more comfortable. On both sides of the entrance there are bell-towers connected by roof construction. It is, at the same time; cover over the entrance to the cave-monastery Dajbabe. Of course, since the beginning, mystery of the cave depth, as much as wise decision of its founder Simeon, contribute to specific impression about this monastery. 105 INTERVJU - Nj. V. Princ Nikola II Petrović Njegoš Neka bude što biti ne može! Razgovarala: Nada Bukilić • Foto: Anes Lekić U vrijeme ljeta, na Cetinju je sve posebno lijepo: ulice pod cvatom mirisnih lipa, mladi svijet zabavljen svojim šalama i smijehom, klupe na trgu, kafanske baštice... Ali, posebno ozračje cetinjskoj promenadi, daje prisustvo Princa Nikole Petrovića – ljudi, jednostavno, vole to što ga srijeću na svojim šetalištima, što sa njim mogu ispiti kafu i što znaju – u njegovom je srcu, baš kao i u njihovima, Cetinje centar Planete O d prošle godine, kada je i zvanično dobio status prestolonasljednika, odnosno sve ono što takav status podrazumijeva, Princ Nikola Petrović dolazi u Crnu Goru, svoju kuću, uvjeren da ga je, iako sa zakašnjenjem, pra-domovina prigrlila sa pravim poštovanjem. Dan koji smo odabrali za intervju je, ipak imao zgusnut raspored, jer postoje obaveze koje se ne daju, ali i ne smiju propustiti. Na Cetinju su francuski novinari snimali reportažu o prijestonici male balkanske države, a Princ Nikola im je bio domaćin, savjetnik, prijatelj, sabesjednik i svojevrsni vodič kroz etno-blago starog grada, kroz njegove muzeje, galerije, stare građevine, i vrlo savjestan tumač istorijskih okolnosti u kojima je ovaj grad nastajao, trajao i postao prijestonicom za koju, ponekad u šali, a uvijek sasvim ozbiljno, kažemo – Cetinje, đe su naše sve svetinje! Princa smo „ukrali“ francuskim kolegama, tek pred smiraj dana, iako smo satima vrebali priliku. Konačno, Francuzi su, u hladu starog, visokog drveća na terasi restorana-vidikovca, nakon ručka ispijali crno vino, a mi smo razgovarali. Solidno savladan crnogorski uz primjese francuskog, malo mimike, poneki gest i osmjeh i – odlično smo se razumjeli. da sebe izlažem onom osjećanju koje sam imao ranije... maltene kao stranac. - Kojim ste povodom, ovog puta, na Cetinju? PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Imao sam tri povoda da dođem: doveo sam prijatelje iz Francuske, novinarsku ekipu Radio France Culture, jer mislim da je njihova ideja o emisiji o Cetinju vrlo važna – biću srećan što će francuska javnost čuti mnogo lijepih i važnih stvari o ovom gradu. Obilazimo muzeje i galerije, pričam im sve ono što ja sâm znam o prijestonici, ali ih i upoznajem sa zanimljivim ličnostima crnogorske umjetničke i javne scene, da bi i od njih čuli što relevantnije podatke o Cetinju. Drugi povod je akcija Fondacije Petrović Njegoš – pomoć koju smo zajedno sa cetinjskom opštinom organizovali za najugroženije sugrađane, i, treći: sviram na koncertu! A razlog dolaska mi je uvijek isti – Cetinje i Crna Gora, i ne treba mi drugi. - Znate, mene je uvijek zanimalo što je to što čovjeku, koji je kao Vi, odrastao u zemlji velike kulture, bude zanimljivo kod nas, a da nije puka egzotika; što je Vama najljepše u Crnoj Gori? PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: U prvom redu – priroda. I kad sam prvi put došao, priroda koju sam ovdje vidio potpuno me je fascinirala. Druga moja fascinacija Crnom Gorom jeste to da je tako malobrojan narod uspio da preživi na balkanskoj vjetrometini toliko vjekova, i to ne samo zbog stalne borbe, već zbog načina na koji je opstao u ovakvim uslovima - te gole stijene, nepregledni kamen... Takođe, volim specifičan duh crnogorskog čovjeka – takav duh ga je, vjerovatno, i spasio, ali i on je nastao i razvio se u takvu snagu i u toj specifičnosti, baš zbog datih okolnosti, i prirode koja nas okružuje. Crna Gora liči na druge mediteranske zemlje, na Krit, Siciliju, na Sardiniju, ali, za razliku od njih, ona ima i neopisive ravnice, jezera, planine i dosta plodne zemlje. Taj spoj je zaista fascinantan. - Drago mi je da se nijeste razočarali... - Vaše Visočanstvo, kako se sada osjećate u Crnoj Gori? PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Uvijek je bilo lijepo u Crnoj Gori. S tim što sada imam gdje da dođem, i da ne budem teret nikome, niti 106 PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Nikada. Mada mi je posljednjih desetak godina bilo prilično teško, ali, zbog drugih stvari - to dvoumljenje i vaganje, to dugotrajno razmišljanje o mom statusu, sve to je bilo iscrpljujuće... - Da li je Vaša porodica imala razumijevanja za Vas i tu Vašu težnju ka Crnoj Gori? Jesu li Vam ikada djeca rekla da odustanete od Crne Gore? PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Ne, nikada, naprotiv. Vjerovatno zbog toga što su je i sami zavoljeli. Vidjeli su koliko je za mene bio težak taj period (2004, 2005, pa sve do 2011. godine) i koliko sam teško podnio ukidanje Bijenala i neke druge stvari. Ali... to nije mijenjalo Crnu Goru. Moja kćerka je čak i diplomski film snimala ovdje u Crnoj Gori, „okupirana“ onim specifičnostima koje je ona otkrila. - Upoznala sam Vašu Altinaj, znam da ju je zanimala crnogorska žena i crnina kao fenomen vezan za naše žene, redom udovice u mladim godinama. Međutim, one njene oči – recite, da li uobražavam iz nekakvog nacio-romantizma, ili su to oči kraljice... PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Milene? Upravo njene oči! I sama Altinaj je to uočila, kao i Frans, moja pokojna supruga. - Vašu suprugu nijesam htjela pominjati, da Vas ne rastužujem, ali znam njenu priču o tome kako su joj Crnogorci zamjerili kad je jednom prilikom bila stroga prema sinu Borisu... PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Jeste, bilo je to smiješno. Em viče na jednog princa, em na muško dijete! Šalim se. Frans je porijeklom Marokanka, dakle iz jedne zemlje u kojoj se još drastičnije pravila razlika između polova, pa joj je to bilo samo simpatično, smiješno, ali ne začuđujuće. Ja sam, takođe, upoznao običaje Maroka i nimalo se nijesam iznenadio došavši u Crnu Goru i primijetivši to podvajanje, koje nije toliko protiv samih žena, koliko je veličanje i uznošenje muškarca na neki imaginarni, visoki pijedestal. A kada sam pobliže upoznao Crnu Goru, shvatio sam ono što svi Crnogorci znaju: prava snaga, ona uporna snaga koja ne odustaje i koja je i rodila i sačuvala ovaj narod, jeste crnogorska žena. Gradeći svoj svijet, mimo mačizma, mimo tog muškog neprikosnovenog položaja, crnogorske žene su uspijevale da se izdignu iznad svega toga što je bilo pojavno i vidljivo, i stvore pravu, suštinsku osnovu života i temelj ovog naroda. Moja žena je to takođe vidjela i govorila je: „Crnogorci su najbolji muževi“, jer je vidjela da je navodna grubost i bahatost, kao i sloboda koju uživaju muškarci, samo ono što su im njihove plemenite, mudre žene dozvolile. - Mnogo mi se sviđa svako od tih Vaših zapažanja. Molim Vas, nastavite. PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Ne, ovo je sasvim ozbiljan sud. Čak mislim i da su se žene mnogo lakše emancipovale i adaptirale, i na prijašnje i na sadašnje uslove. Mi volimo da se junačimo, pričamo, takmičimo. Mudrost je naći ravnotežu, biti na istim talasnim duži107 o nekim „amerikama“, treba sanjati svoj san i učiniti sve da taj san ostvarimo. A mi, bojim se, još ne možemo da se otrgnemo od sanjanja onoga što je u svijetu bilo prije deset godina. Mi priželjkujemo, dakle, ono što je svijet prevazišao ili, čak, proglasio nepoželjnim. Naprotiv, dobra osnova koju mi imamo i naša velika prednost baš je to što nijesmo industrijalizovani, što imamo toliko plodnog zemljišta, sa velikim poljoprivrednim potencijalom. Sada, kada se traži prirodni proizvod, organska hrana, čist vazduh, čista voda, sada je naše vrijeme. To što bi, praktično počeli od nule, ustvari je naša velika prednost. Gosti iz Francuske Gradovi svijeta: Cetinje Ekipa francuskog nacionalnog radija France Culture snimala je reportažu o Cetinju i njegovim ljudima sredinom juna. Na taj način je crnogorsku prijestonicu francuski radio uvrstio u najzanimljivije „Gradove svijeta”, kako se emisija i zove. Za potrebe snimanja ove dvočasovne reportaže, gosti iz Francuske ostali su u Crnoj Gori nedjelju dana, a domaćin i svojevrsni vodič kroz istoriju i kulturu grada, bio je Princ Nikola Petrović, ali i cijelo Cetinje. - Odavno se kod nas priča o ekologiji... PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Tako je, dvadeset godina! Projekat „Crna Gora ekološka država“, ideja koju nijesmo tada razumjeli do kraja, O osnovnim impresijama o Crnoj Gori i Cetinju, razgovarali smo sa gospodinom Filipom Petitom, režiserom pomenute reportaže. - Gospodine Petit, zašto ste odlučili da Cetinje bude sljedeći grad u nizu svjetskih gradova koje upoznajete i opisujete u svojim reportažama? FILIP PETIT: Poznajem Crnu Goru odavno. Ja znam mnogo o vašoj zemlji već čitavih 40 godina. Prvi put sam došao kao student, vidio sam Kotor, Perast, na kratko i Cetinje. I kasnije sam imao običaj dolaziti. Sada smo, moji kolege i ja, odlučili da snimimo reportažu o Cetinju, zbog zanimljivih i interesantnih podataka, zbog vrijednosti istorijskih artefakata, zbog likovnog bogatstva, zbog svih vaših umjetnika. To nam se učinilo još boljom idejom zbog gospodina Nikole Petrovića, koji suvereno vlada svime što Cetinje ima i nudi. Ne samo u turističkom smislu. A i – rijetko se dešava da vam o značaju i vrijednostima, običajima, kulturi i značaju jednog grada govori ni manje ni više nego prijestolonasljednik dinastije za čije je vladavine grad doživio najveći kulturno-ekonomski uspon. Na Cetinje sam dolazio i zbog Bijenala, i imaće naši slušaoci što da čuju. nama i razumjeti se. To je posebno važno kada u obzir uzmemo đecu. - Pomenuli ste Bijenale. Vi ste po profesiji arhitekta, pa Vam je umjetnost, prirodom stvari, vrlo bliska. Vjerujem i da ste upoznali brojne crnogorske umjetnike, ali, uslovno rečeno, i običan svijet. Da li mislite da su umjetnici, intelektualci, mogli učiniti više za ovu zemlju, afirmišući je u svojim djelima, koristeći svoj autoritet, boreći se za njena dobra, ili su za nju najviše učinili upravo oni koje podvodimo pod „obične“ građane? PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: To je veoma teško procjenjivati. Znate, umjetnici su „svijet za sebe“ i oni nijesu dužni činiti ništa više do 108 Naša reportaža će govoriti i o ekonomskim uslovima, o političkim prilikama, ali i o prirodnom okruženju, ekološkim karakteristikama i fizičkom položaju grada. Nas zanima i pejzažna kultura i mogućnosti pejzažne kulture, održivi razvoj i ono što činite u tom cilju. - Šta Vam se dopada ovdje, kod nas? FILIP PETIT: Sigurno će vam svaki stranac reći da imate nevjerovatno lijepu prirodu, pa tako i ja. S tim što mi je, zaista, od gradova najljepše Cetinje, a u pejzažu mi je najljepše Skadarsko jezero. Otići na jezero i uživati u tišini, u miru, to je nešto posebno. Ja sam vam od onih ljudi koji svuda traže jela koja odišu originalnošću i tradicijom kraja u koji sam došao. Tako mi se i ovdje u Crnoj Gori sviđaju vaša vina, odlična su, kao i pojedini sirevi, posebno kozji. I, da ne zaboravim, sviđa mi se i pršuta! ono što čine – njihova djela su afirmacija Crne Gore i borba za nju. Sve ostale bitke pripadaju upravo „običnim“ građanima, a najbolji rezultati su, poput onoga na Referendumu za nezavisnost, kad su i jedni i drugi bili u, da tako kažem, istom stroju. Inače, samo Bog može reći ko je u ovoj i svakoj drugoj zemlji autentičan, pravi heroj. Ne možete sve u jedan paket, ali mislim da nama ovdje u Crnoj Gori fali vizija. Ne fali nam ni entuzijazma, ni želje, ni snage. Ali, mi razmišljamo sada, o sadašnjem trenutku, bez imalo plana za budućnost. To je kao da samo čekamo, pa što Bog da, ali ako neko vikne: „Utakmica!“, mi ćemo svi polećet’ na stadion, a kako ćemo igrati, što će ko raditi, što nam je cilj – ne znamo! - To je, možda, stvar mentaliteta? PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Svakako. Ispričaću vam jednu anegdotu: razgovaram sa cetinjskim prijateljima upravo na sličnu temu; ja tvrdim da smo mi uvijek spremni samo nek neko kaže „Skoči!“, pa čak i da treba sad do Budve, nije nam teško; što, to je, kažem, svega 40-50 minuta; moj prijatelj se slaže i kaže: „Ma, stigli bi mi i za dvades’!“ - A što Vi vidite kao razvojnu šansu Crne Gore? Što bi ona mogla ponuditi svijetu, a što bi mogla učiniti onako, za sebe? PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Dopada mi se ovaj drugi diopitanja – što učiniti za sebe? Crna Gora ima, zaista, mnogo, mnogo uslova za razvoj i za mnogo bolji i kvalitetniji život. Ne treba trčati za tuđim slikama i maštati pa je djelovala utopijski i preuranjeno, sada tek svuda u svijetu dobija svoju valorizaciju, a mi na istom. Ekološka država je najbolji, najpametniji, najveći i najznačajniji projekat današnjice, a nije ga smislio niko drugi u svijetu do - mi! To je fantastično! Ondašnju utopiju moramo pretvoriti u realnost i to je sve što nam treba. Ustari, sve drugo je u kvalitetnom marketingu. Brinuti o sebi i svojoj prirodi, zdravlju, zemlji... To je ono što možemo pokazati svijetu, a da on poželi i dođe... bi, šireći znanje, od Crne Gore stvarali državu sa budućnošću. Jer, ja čvrsto vjerujem u obrazovanje, u instituciju znanja i umijeća, i mislim da je i to jedan od važnih zadataka svake ozbiljne države. Laboratorije, istraživački instituti... - to nam treba jer bi ljudima sa strane, naučnicima, istraživačima i sl, bilo itekako atraktivno i lijepo živjeti i raditi ovdje, na miru i u prirodnim uslovima. Nove tehnologije, eko-gradnja, eko-energija i eko-sistemi, sve su to polja na kojima bi mogli postići zavidne rezultate. - Kao turisti... - Moram Vas pitati da li ste dovoljno upoznali i sjever Crne Gore, jer dok ste govorili o ekologiji i razvoju eko-sistema, pomislila sam baš na sjeverno prirodno bogatstvo? PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: I kao turisti, ali i na druge načine. Volio bih da vidim osnivanje istraživačkih centara koji bi okupljali stručnjake raznih profila, koji bi željeli da žive ovdje, prenose svoja znanja, a na taj način Fondacija Petrović Njegoš Ujediniti lijepe i važne stvari O prvim akcijama, realizovanim tokom juna, kao i o planovima za budući period, razgovarali smo sa Milicom Perišić, poslovnim sekretarom Fondacije Petrović Njegoš. - Koja su polja aktivnosti Fonadacije? MILICA: Naša Fondacija, od početka djeluje u tri segmenta: pomoć ugroženom stanovništvu (humanitarne akcije i zdravstvo), razvoj znanja (istraživanja, kultura, obrazovanje, edukacija kadrova) i zaštita životne sredine. Već smo, nakon identifikacije potreba najugroženijih, u Beranama i Rožajama, zatim u Andrijevici i Plavu, proljetos sproveli akciju podjele humanitarnih paketa. Za tamošnje stanovništvo bilo je vrlo značajno što je akcijom rukovodio sam Princ Nikola Petrović. Tokom juna smo realizovali i akciju „Donacije Fondacije Petrović Njegoš i Prijestonice Cetinje”, brinući o ugroženim građanima prijestonice, posebno kroz potrebe djece. - Međutim, time se ne iscrpljuju svi humanitarni planovi Fondacije? MILICA: Naravno. Počeli smo i program u domenu zdravstva „Pomoć ženama”, i tim povodom potpisan je Memorandum o saradnji sa privatnom klinikom Codra Hospital, a cilj nam je da mladim ženama, koje su imale zdravstvenih problema, pružimo pomoć, koja će im omogućiti da sa samopuzdanjem nastave svoje živote. - Fondacija Petrović Njegoš, izgleda, umije da poveže i ujedini više lijepih stvari? MILICA: Zaista se trudimo da bude tako. Na primjer, na Cetinju smo, baš u povodu akcije pomoći građanima prijestonice, organizovali koncert studenata Akademije sa kojima je nastupio sam princ Nikola Petrović. A ti mladi ljudi, Mia Obrenović, Igor Pejović i Novak Pavličić, ovog ljeta će učestvovati u ljetnjoj školi za muzičke talente, u Banjer de Bigoru, Gornji Pirineji, u Francuskoj, što će finansirati upravo Fondacija Petrović Njegoš. 109 Jedan čaroban dan Zamislite i opišite jedan lijepi dan u Crnoj Gori; kako bi on izgledao? PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Paaa, ovako: trebalo bi se probuditi pred samu zoru neđe u Kotoru, gledati nebo i njegove boje; potom pješke krenuti ka Cetinju, serpentinama, pa preko Njeguša (ne bi taj put trajao predugo), usput pomalo odmarati i, ako bude sreće, ipak autostopom doći do prijestonice; na Cetinju vidjeti Dvor, poslanstva, muzeje, manastir, a onda se, pred noć, vratiti na more; plivati dok zalazi sunce, a kad već uhvati noć... e, to nije moje da kažem kako noć provesti... PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Kako da ne; upravo sam proljetos bio i u Rožajama, Beranama, Plavu, Andrijevici. Bio sam zapanjen! Toliko mogućnosti, toliko očaravajuće ljepote, toliko Bog dao, a ljudi ne uzeli ništa! Svi gledaju u grad, i to u sami centar, a oko njih nebrojeno, nesagledivo blago. Gledam Andrijevicu, najsiromašniju opštinu u Crnoj Gori, a nigdje nije tako lijepo! Iz razgovora sa tamošnjim ljudima, shvatio sam da se oni žale kako država ne brine za njih, kako su ostavljeni i prepušteni sebi. Pogrešan stav. Jer, nema bolje pozicije nego da sâm rješavaš i brineš o svojim prioritetima. Ima ona izreka: „Pomozi sebi, pa će ti i Bog pomoći.“ I tačna je! Tako da niko ko ima onakvu zemlju, ne smije da se požali kako je siromašan i kako nema što da radi. - Kad ste već kod izreka, da Vas pitam i za stihove. Ovo je tipično „crnogorsko pitanje“: znate li što od Njegoša napamet, ili, bliže, od kralja Nikole? PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Hahaha... Čitao sam sve što je prevedeno na francuski, ali, moram vam reći da je utisak o djelu Njegoša, a i kralja Nikole, drugačiji kada se to isto pročita na izvornom jeziku. Naučivši cr110 APART HOTEL TRE CANNE BUDVA- CRNA GORA Energy efficient and environmentaly friendly project with generated energy saving during the building exploitation- 68% of energy balance compearing to the building designed in the classical consumption and construction systems. nogorski, mogao sam tako i da čitam ono što su pisali. Pa ću zato reći da poznajem Njegoševo djelo... - Pa, onda, dajte neki stih... PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: „Neka bude što biti ne može!“ - E, sad ću ja da se smijem! Baš to? PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Da: „Neka bude što biti ne može“, ali u kontekstu ove naše priče o Crnoj Gori! Neka bude sve ono za što još ne vidimo da smo u mogućnosti ostvariti, i ne znamo da za to imamo snage! Odoljeli smo, vjekovima, ratovima, odoljeli smo i ovom posljednjem ratu, nijesmo se ojadili kao drugi u bivšoj Jugoslaviji, uspjeli smo i na Referendumu, pa što onda, ne bi i sada u ovom vremenu? - Ne preostaje mi ništa drugo nego da dodam: „Pregaocu Bog daje mahove“! PRINC N. PETROVIĆ: Slažem se. Real Estate Sales & Marketing +382 69 019 999; +382 69 019 989; e-mail: trecanne@fablive.me; www.trecanne.me INTERVIEW – His Majesty Prince Nikola II Petrović Njegoš Let it be what cannot be! By: Nada Bukilić • Photo: Anes Lekić In summertime, in Cetinje, everything is especially beautiful: streets under blooming, fragrant linden-trees, young people amused by their own jokes and laughter, benches on square, small terraces of cafes… However, Cetnje promenade radiates in a special way because of the presence of Prince Nikola Petrović – people, simply love that they are able to meet him on their promenades, to have a coffee with him, knowing that – in his heart, just as in theirs, Cetinje is the center of Universe S ince last year, when he officially got the status of crown prince, that is, everything that comes with that status, Prince Nikola Petrović is coming to Montenegro, his home, convinced that, although a bit late, his homeland embraced him with true respect. A day we choose for interview was indeed a crowded one, because, there are some duties that cannot, and must not be missed. Some French journalists were making a report about the capital of small Balkan country, and Prince Nikola was their host, advisor, friend, partner in conversations and guide through ethnic treasure of old town, through its museums, galleries, old buildings; as well as very conscientious interpreter of his- 112 toric circumstances in which this town was made, lived, and thus became the capital, for which we, sometimes as a joke, but more often seriously, say – Cetinje, where all our sacred things are! We “stole” Prince from our French colleagues only when the day began to fade, although we have been chasing our chance for hours. Finally, the French were sipping red wine after lunch, on the terrace of a restaurant, in the shade of ancient, tall trees, and we talked. Solidly mastered Montenegrin, with admixtures of French, a bit of mimicry, a few gestures and smiles – and we understood each other perfectly! - What is the reason this time for Your visit to Cetinje? idea to make a report about Cetinje is very important – I will be happy to have French audience hear so many nice and significant things about this town. We are visiting museums and galleries, I tell them everything I myself know about the capital, but also, I introduce them to interesting persons from Montenegrin artistic and public scene, so they could hear from them, as much relevant data about Cetinje as possible. The second reason is activity of Foundation Petrović Njegoš – the help we, together with municipality of Cetinje, organized for the most socially impaired cocitizens, and the third: I am performing on a concert! And motive to come is always the same – Cetinje, and Montenegro, and I do not need other. PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: There were three reasons for my coming: I brought my friends from France over, journalist crew of “Radio France Culture”, because I think that their - You know, I always wanted to find out, what a man like Yourself, who grew up in a country of such a great culture, finds interesting about us, and by that I do not - Your Majesty, how do You feel now in Montenegro? PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: I have always felt good in Montenegro. Only now, I have a place to come to, without being burden to anyone, without exposing myself to a feeling I had before…almost as if I were a stranger. mean just pure exotics; what do You find most beautiful about Montenegro? PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: First of all – the nature. The first time I came here, the nature I saw completely fascinated me. What also fascinates me about Montenegro, is that such a small nation managed to survive in Balkan crossroad for so many centuries, and not only because of constant fight, but also because of the way this nation succeeded in surviving such conditions – those barren cliffs, measureless stone… I also love specific spirit of Montenegrin man – a kind of spirit that probably saved him, but the spirit itself was born and evolved into such a power and into such specificity, just because of the circumstances, and surrounding nature. Montenegro resembles other Mediterranean countries, Crete, Sicily, Sardinia, however, unlike them, Montenegro has indescribable fields, lakes, mountains, and plenty of fertile land. Such mixture is truly fascinating. - I am glad that You were not disappointed… PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: Never. Although, it was quite hard for me in last ten years, but for all other reasons – the hesitation and deliberation, the long-lasting decisionmaking about my status, all of that was quite exhausting… - Did Your family have understanding for You and Your longing for Montenegro? Have Your children ever told You to give up on Montenegro? PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: No, never, quite the contrary. Probably because they themselves fell in love with Montenegro. They saw how difficult that period was for me (2004, 2005 until 2011) and how badly I took abolition of Biennale and some other things. However…nothing of that affected Montenegro itself. My daughter 113 even made her graduation film here, in Montenegro, “occupied” with the specificities that she discovered. reproach she got from Montenegrins once she was strict with Your son Boris… - I have met Your Altinaj, and I know that she was interested in Montenegrin woman and mourning clothes as a phenomenon connected to our women, all widowed at a young age. However, those eyes of hers – tell me, am I imagining out of some national romanticism, or are those eyes of a queen… PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: Yes, it was funny. Not only was she yelling at a prince, it was a male child also! I am just joking. Frans had Moroccan origin, so she came from a country where the difference between sexes was even more drastic; therefore, she found that to be just cute, funny, but not surprising. I have also got familiar with the customs in Morocco and was not at least surprised when I came to Montenegro and noticed such distinction, which is not so much pointed against the women themselves, as it is glorifying a man, and putting him on some imaginary, high pedestal. Moreover, when I got acquainted PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: Of Milena? Exactly her eyes! Altinaj herself noticed that, as well as Frans, my late wife. - I did not want to mention Your wife, to sadden You, but I know her story about with Montenegrin customs closer, I realized what all Montenegrins have already known: true strength, the persistent one, which never gives up, and which gave birth to and preserved this nation, is Montenegrin woman. Building their own world, different from macho one, different from this male, unquestionable position, Montenegrin women succeeded in raising above everything that was objective and visible, and created true, essential base of life, and the foundation of this nation. My wife has also seen that, and she used to say: “Montenegrins are the best husbands”, because she perceived that alleged crudeness and arrogance, as well as the freedom men were enjoying, were just to the extent that their noble, wise wives allowed. Guests from France - I very much like each of those observations of Yours. Could You, please, continue. PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: No, this is completely serious judgment. I even believe that women emancipated and adapted to past and modern conditions more easily. We love to play heroes, to brag, to compete. It is wisdom to find a balance, to be on the same wavelength and understand each other. It is of utmost importance when we consider children. - You mentioned Biennale. You are an architect by vocation, so art is, naturally, very close to You. I believe that You met numerous Montenegrin artists, but also so-called “ordinary” people. Do You think that artists and intellectuals could have done more for this country, by affirm- ing it in their work, using their authority, fighting for its prosperity, or the most was done by those who we usually call “ordinary” citizens? PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: It is very hard to estimate. You know, artists are “in their own world” and they are not obliged to do anything more than what they are already doing – their work is affirmation of Montenegro and fight for it. All the other fights belong to those “ordinary” citizens, and the best results are those like on Referendum for independence, when both were, so to say, on the same side. Otherwise, only God can tell who is authentic in this, and every other, country, who is the true hero. You cannot get all in one package, but I think that here, in Montenegro, we are lacking a vision. We Towns of the world: Cetinje Foundation Petrović Njegoš The crew of French national radio, France Culture, was making a report about Cetinje and its citizens, in the middle of June. Thus, Montenegrin capital was classified by this French radio, among most interesting “Towns of the world”, which is the title of the show as well. Guests from France stayed in Montenegro for one week, in order to make this report, and their host and a kind of guide through the history and culture of the town, was Prince Nikola Petrović, together with entire population of Cetinje. Unite nice and important things We talked to Mr. Fillip Petit, the director of the report, about his first impressions about Montenegro and Cetinje. About first activities, realized during June, as well as about future plans, we talked to Mrs. Milica Perišić, business secretary of Foundation Petrović Njegoš. - Mr. Petit, what made you decide to put Cetinje among towns, that you get to know and describe in your reports all over the world? FILIP PETIT: I met Montenegro a long time ago. I have known a lot about your country for 40 years already. The first time I came, I was a student, and I visited Kotor, Perast, shortly even Cetinje. I also used to come here in later years. Now my colleagues and I, decided to make a report about Cetinje, because of its interesting historical data, value of historical exponents, artistic abundance, and all your artists. It seemed, as even better idea because of Mr. Nikola Petrović, who confidently rules with all that Cetinje has to offer. Not only in tourist sense. Moreover – rarely happens to have a crown prince personally, telling you about significance and values, customs, culture and importance of a town, not to mention that he is a member of dynasty during whose time this town flourished in cultural and economic sense. I also visited Cetinje to see Biennial, so our listeners will have a lot to hear. 114 Our report will also talk about economic conditions, political climate, as well as of natural environment, ecological characteristics and physical position of the town. We are interested in landscape culture and its possibilities, sustainable development and the steps you take in that direction. - What is that you like about us? FILIP PETIT: Surely, every foreigner will tell you how beautiful nature you have, so I will not be an exception. Although, I would pick out Cetinje as most beautiful town, and Skadar Lake, in the sense of landscape. To go to a lake and enjoy the silence and peace - that is something special. I belong to sort of people who, wherever they go, search for dishes that represent originality and tradition of the country I came to. So in Montenegro, I like wine, it is excellent, as well as certain kinds of cheese, especially goat cheese. I also must not forget to mention, I love Montenegrin prosciuto! - Which fields of activity does the Foundation cover? MILICA: From the beginning, our Foundation acts in three segments: aid for socially impaired population (humanitarian actions and health department), development of knowledge (researches, culture, education, training of staff ) and preservation of environment. We have already this spring, after identifying the needs of the most socially impaired ones, in Berane and Rožaje, and then in Andrijevica and Plav, conducted an action where we shared humanitarian packages. For population living there, it was truly significant to have Prince Nikola Petrović himself coordinating an action. During June, we have realized an activity “Donations of Foundation Petrović Njegoš and of Capital Cetinje”, taking care of impaired citizens of the capital, especially through the needs of children. - However, the Foundation does not end its humanitarian plans there, does it? have enough enthusiasm, desire, strength. However, we are only focusing on now, on present moment, without any plans for the future. It is as almost as if we are only waiting for anything that God would give us, but if someone cries out:” The game!”, we will all rush into stadium, and what will we play, who will do what, what is our goal – we do not know! - Maybe that is a matter of mentality? PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: It surely is. I will tell you an anecdote: I had a conversation with a friend from Cetinje on a similar subject; I claimed that we are always ready, all one has to say is:“ Jump!”, even if we have to go to Budva right now, we do not find that to be a problem; why would it be, it takes only 40 – 50 minutes; my friend agreed MILICA: Of course, it does not. We have also started a health program – “Help for women”, and on that occasion, signed a Memorandum about cooperation with private clinic Codra Hospital, having as an objective help for young women, who had some health issues, which will enable them to confidently continue with their lives. - It seems that the Foundation Petrović Njegoš knows how to connect and unite several good things? MILICA: We honestly try to keep it that way. For example, in Cetinje, on the account of action to help capital’s citizens, we organized concert on which the Prince Nikola Petrović personally showed up. In addition, those young people, Mia Obrenović, Igor Pejović and Novak Pavličić, this summer will attend summer school for music talents in Banjer de Bigor, Upper Pirinei, in France, which will be also financed by Foundation Petrović Njegoš. 115 A magical day - Imagine and describe, how would one magical day in Montenegro look like? PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: Well, like this: you should wake up before dawn somewhere in Kotor, watch the sky and its colours; then go to Cetinje on foot, on serpentines, over Njeguši (that trip would not take too long), rest occasionally along the way, and, if you are lucky, come to Capital by hitch-hiking; in Cetinje visit the Palace, embassies, museums, the monastery, and then, in the evening, return to the seaside; swim while sun goes down, and when the night falls…well, you do not need me to tell you how to spend the night… and added:” Oh, we could get there in 20 minutes!” - What do You see as developmental chance for Montenegro? What Montenegro could offer to a world and what could be done just for ourselves? PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: I like the other part of your question – what could be done for ourselves? Indeed, Montenegro has so many conditions for development, and for much better and more quality life. We should not chase others’ images and fantasize about some “Americas”, we should dream our own dream, and do everything to make that dream come true. Moreover, I am afraid; we still cannot detach ourselves from dreaming about things that were relevant in the world some ten years ago. Therefore, we wish for what the world has already outgrown, or even declared undesirable. On the contrary, a good foundation and our great advantage, is exactly the fact that we are not industrialized, that we have so much fertile land, with great agricultural potential. Now, when there is demand for natural product, organic food, clear air, clean water, now is our time. The fact that we, basically, would start from the zero point, is actually, our great advantage. - We have been talking about ecology here for a long time… PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: You are right, for twenty years! The project “Montenegro ecological country”, an idea we did not fully understand at that time, so it seemed premature and utopist, only now all over the world, gets its valorization, and we are stagnating. Ecological country is the best, the smartest, the biggest and the most important project of today’s world, cre116 ated by no one else but – us! It is fantastic! Utopia from that time must be transferred into reality, and that is all we need. As a matter of fact, everything else is question of quality advertising. To take care of ourselves, our nature, health, land… That is what we can show to the world, and make the world wish to come here… - As tourists… PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: As tourists, but also in other ways. I wish to see founding of research centers that would gather experts from various fields, experts who would live here, transferred their knowledge, and in that way, by expanding the knowledge, make Montenegro a country that has a future. Because, I firmly believe in education, in institution of knowledge and skill, and I think that it is one of most important tasks for every serious country. Laboratories, research institutes…- that is what we need, because people from abroad, scientists, researchers, and others, would be attracted to comfortably live and work here, in peace and in natural environment. New technologies, eco-building, eco-energy and eco-systems, are all fields in which we could accomplish impressive results. - I must ask You if You are fully familiar with north of Montenegro, because while You were talking about ecology and development of eco-systems, I was thinking exactly about our north natural wealth? PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: Of course, I am; just last spring I visited Rožaje, Berane, Plav, Andrijevica. I was amazed! So many opportunities, such delightful beauty, God gave so much, and people took nothing! All their eyes fixated on town, on the very center, and such immense, huge richness. I observed Andrijevica, the poorest municipality in Montenegro, and there is no such beauty as in Andrijevica! From the conversations with people from there, I realized that they are complaining that the country does not take care of them, that they are left alone to their own destiny. That is a wrong attitude. Because, there is no better position for a man, than to take care of his own priorities by himself. There is a saying:” Help yourself and God will also help.” And it is so true! Therefore, no one who owns such a land must complain that he is poor and has no job. - Speaking of sayings, I also have to ask You about verses. This is typical “Montenegrin question”: do You know any verses by Njegoš by heart, or closer, by king Nikola? PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: Hahaha…I read all that was translated into French, however, I must admit that the impressions about work of Njegoš, and of king Nikola, are different when you read those in native language. Learning Montenegrin enabled me to read what they wrote. That is why I will only say that I am familiar with the work of Njegoš… - Then, tell me a verse… PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: “Let it be what cannot be!” - Now, it is my turn to laugh! Particularly those? PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: Yes. “Let it be what cannot be”, but in context of our story about Montenegro! Let it happen all that we still cannot see that we are able for, and not aware that we are strong enough for! For centuries, we resisted wars, we resisted the last war, we did not afflict ourselves like others from former Yugoslavia, and we succeeded on Referendum, so, why would not we succeed now, in this time? - I have nothing left to add then: “God himself helps that who strives!” PRINCE N. PETROVIĆ: I agree. Rukomet - svi Za Crnu Goru! 1990. godište GODINA LAVLJEG SRCA Selektor francuske reprezentacije, nakon poraza od Crne Gore, i to u utakmici koja nije imala rezultatski značaj (oba tima su već osigurala plasman na OI), održao je sastanak u devet časova sa svojim igračicama. Počeo je kritikom: - Sramota! Nadmudrila vas je djevojka koja je 1990. godište!?! Riječ je o Mileni Knežević, srednjem beku naše reprezentacije. Ukrala je „živu” loptu u samom finišu, a na terenu su bile samo četiri naše igračice! Tekst: Ana Marković Nebo više nije granica. Preletjele su, odskočile, i već su u Londonu. Naše, sjajne, blistave zvijezde! Kao musketari odane su jedna drugoj. Žive za rukomet, vole borbu, ne posustaju, uživaju u golovima, ne skrivaju emocije koje ih nose dok ih prati huk sa navijačkih tribina, svaku asistenciju proslavljaju uzdignutim pesnicama. One su naš veliki ponos. One su – lavice! R ukometašice Crne Gore će, prvi put u istoriji, igrati na Olimpijskim igrama! Nedavno su u Lionu, na kvalifikacionom turniru za OI, demonstrirale silu hrabrih srca, „razbile” Japan, Rumuniju i domaćina Francusku. Idemo u London! Crna Gora je mlada država, i ovo je prvi put da na olimpijskim igrama imamo i rukometašice. U njih polažemo veliku nadu, kao i u naše vaterpoliste i ostale sportiste, jer, poput svih nacija na svijetu, želimo čuti našu himnu, vidjeti podignutu našu zastavu i želimo osjetiti i proslaviti radost najboljih! Ali, dovde nije bilo lako stići. Šta se sve dešavalo prije i poslije Liona, jesu li naše rukometašice mogle mirno zaspati čekajući mečeve, kakve su tajne skrivali njihovi sastanci, razgovori, planovi? 118 - Radovale smo se svakoj pobjedi, maštale, onako među nama, šta će biti kada osvojimo sve što se mogne, ali nijesmo to javno iznosile. Jer, to su one naše male, slatke stvari, sportske nade koje se ne dijele sa javnošću unaprijed – kaže Bojana Popović, najbolja rukometašica i spiritus movens ovog trijumfa. Ovo je treći front naše velike borbe. Uspjele smo, iako moja Maja (Maja Savić, kapiten) i ja, na prvim pripremama na Kopaoniku, jedva da smo se mogle popeti pješke do trećeg sprata. Bile smo umorne, samljevene, ali, eto, našle smo način da prvo pobijedimo sebe, a onda i sve drugo. Zanimljivo je da Bojana Popović, po mnogima najbolja rukometašica svijeta, nikada nije bila na Olimpijadi. Kao da je zadovoljena neka kosmička pravda - sada će sa reprezentacijom Crne Gore imati priliku da igra pod sjajem olimpijskih vatri. - Nema to veze sa pravdom, već kako se kome „poklopi”. Mlađima se poklopilo, osvojile su prije ovoga, sa Budućnošću, i trofej Lige šampiona. Marina, Suzana i sve ostale - kao od šale! Nijesu morale da čekaju dugo, poput Maje i mene, i srećna sam zbog njih. E, sad, rasplakala sam se, obje smo plakale, jer ovo što se desilo, na kraju je naše karijere. Ustvari, u trenutku kada znamo: možemo otići jednom u životu ili nikad! Srećne smo što smo našim navijačima i svima u Crnoj Gori, koji su strepili zajedno sa nama, koji su sa tremom i sa nadom gledali svaki naš meč, pratili svaki korak, omogućili ovu sportsku radost. I što smo baš mi ostvarile veliki uspjeh za Crnu Goru. Dani, još uvijek, prolaze u jakim emocija- ma. Bojana kaže da im utisci ne daju snu na oči. Još se „vrte filmovi” u glavama, još se razmišlja da li je sve java ili san. Sport je jedna od ključnih poveznica sa svijetom – ako znate za sportske uspjehe neke zemlje, odmah znate i sve o njoj, makar ne umjeli da je nađete na geografskoj karti. Logično je da zemlje, velike i po površini i po broju stanovnika, imaju vrijedne sportske rezultate, jer, kvantitet omogućava kvalitet. Ali, ono što je najljepše u sportu upravo je to što on počiva, prije svega, na individualnoj motivaciji i snazi, na samopregornom radu pojedinaca, na njihovoj spremnosti da se liše mnogo čega zarad rezultata koji mogu, ali i ne moraju doći. I kada, nakon svega, neko takav, omeđen skromnim uslovima svoje zemlje, ograđen hiljadama problema, na terenu suočen sa velikim sportskim silama, ne poklekne, već naprotiv krene i ide uvijek i samo naprijed – e, onda ga to učini velikim sportistom i neprikosnovenim autoritetom pred svim navijačima u domovini i ljubiteljima sporta u svijetu! Ili, kako reče pjesnik: „Boj ne bije svijetlo oružje, već boj bije srce u junaka.” Junakinje naših dana su rukometašice koje su silno vjerovale u uspjeh. Nisu poklekle ni pred moćnim Francuskinjama, niko ih nije ni uplašio. Naše djevojke su nam dale sve što sport može dati: uzbuđenje, radost, sreću, ponos! Omogućile su nam važno mjesto u velikoj sportskoj porodici naroda. Bojana Popović tvrdi da na neuspjeh nijesu ni pomišljale: - Nikad nismo izgovorile ako, već smo govorile i razmišljale: kada bude, kad se desi, što je bilo bitno, jer je značilo da se ekipa bori bez straha. Tako je bilo u Ligi šampiona, tako i sada u borbi za odlazak na Olimpijadu. Govorile smo: „Kada se završi kvalifikacioni turnir, kada krenemo u pripreme za Olimpijadu, kada dođe 25. jun...” Rasle su jednako sa pobjedama i porazima. Čini se da je Brazil, kada su krajem prošle godine na Svjetskom prvenstvu podbacile, bio presudan. Popović objašnjava: - Ne dam na sebe. Ne dam. Taj inat, drskost, želja, zajedništvo su nas održali. Znate i sami kako i na koji način smo igrale kroz Ligu šampiona, kako smo u polufinalu, pričam o klupskom uspjehu Budućnosti, izbacile norveški Larvik, a tek u finalu... Maja Savić se slaže sa Bojanom da je takav stav sačuvao energiju i snagu za dodatne napore i nove uspjehe. (Popović je osvojila šest trofeja Lige šampiona, a Savić tri.) Sada će njih dvije, sa ostalim djevojkama, zajedno na Olimpijadu: - Van sebe sam kada pomislim na Igre, kaže Maja, a kako stalno na to i mislim – stalno sam van sebe! Dočekale smo ih, a do prije Ništa bez Dragana! Dragan Adžić, samozatajni trener i selektor naših rukometašica, čovjek koji povisi glas samo kad traži tajm aut, strpljiv u svom radu, nenametljiv i, pred javnosti, gotovo plah, stožer je tima koji pobjeđuje gdje god bije bitku. Stručno i savjesno rukovođenje timom, čuvanje igračica od pretjeranog uplitanja javnosti u njihov rad, istovremeno iskreno zalaganje da im se obezbijede što bolji uslovi i da ništa iz spoljnjeg svijeta ne pomuti viziju koja je pred njima, doveo je ove djevojke pred vrata sportskog raja. Idu na Olimpijadu 2012, što je i za njega, kao i za djevojke, vrhunac dosadašnje karijere. Hoće li djevojke svog selektora sa velike arene iznijeti na štitu ili sa štitom, vidjećemo. A ono što već znamo jeste da se bez straha ide naprijed, da su i olimpijske igre, ipak, samo igre i da su uspješne i prave sportske, samo kad pobjeđuju zaista najbolji! To je ono što je Adžić naučio svoj tim. Vjerujemo u Adžića, vjerujemo u naše djevojke i čekamo prvi plamen olimpijske vatre! 119 godinu nijesam pomišljala da mi se može nešto ovako ostvariti. Mislila sam da ću završiti karijeru bez tog iskustva. Kada se govori o našoj rukometnoj reprezentaciji i kada se tumači njen uspjeh, niko ne pominje sportsku sreću. Sreća, ta imaginarna boginja što bdije nad sportistima, zaštitnica snova o peharima i medaljama, nije ovdje imala posla. - Krv, suze i znoj! To ti je naš usud, tako smo uspjele, kaže Maja. Ali, srećna jesam. Od starta smo pokazale šta želimo, a ne bi uspjele bez jedinstva u ekipi. Tako o svom uspjehu govore najiskusnije, najbolje rukometašice, žene – legende. Inače, obje su udate, i Maja ima kćerku koja igra za danski Viborg! Ne smeta im što ih prepoznaju na ulici, u lokalima, na aerodro120 mima i ne samo kod nas. U Parizu, prošle godine, dok su čekale na aerodromu, prišla im je službenica i pitala: „Montenegro? Rukomet? Molim vas, da li je sa vama Bojana Popović? ” No, vrijeme neumitno prolazi. Proći će i Majino i Bojanino sportsko vrijeme. Ali, ono što su postigle je neprolazno. Na mladima svijet ostaje, pa će i klupski i reprezentativni rad ostati na Mileni, Suzani, Marini, Majdi, Radi, Joki... Ima ih i bilo bi pogrešno izdvajati pojedine. One su tim, nepobjedivi tim, i samo to im je važno. Jer, zajedno su trčale, trenirale, izgarale; odlučno brinule jedna o drugoj, savjesno čuvale jedna drugu i hrabrile. Vrijeme je da se zajedno i raduju. Ovo je vrijeme rukometa, najboljeg u Evropi, među najboljima u svijetu – vrijeme lavljeg Grupa A Poslije kvalifikacija u Lionu, crnogorske rukometašice su, preko Pariza, doputovale u London. Pobijedile su Veliku Britaniju, u pretposljednjem meču kvalifikacija za Evropsko prvenstvo. Tu su sačekale i žrijeb za Olimpijske igre: za što bolji plasman vodiće borbu u grupi A: Crna Gora, Rusija, Hrvatska, Velika Britanija, Brazil, Angola. srca! A naša srca će da biju jače od svih londonskih satova kad budemo davali golove, kad budemo slavili pobjede i kad se nad postoljem pobjednika zavijori zastava Crne Gore! Srećno! Handball – ALL for Montenegro! YEAR OF LION’S HEART By: Ana Marković M ontenegrin female handball players, for the first time in history, will participate in Olympic Games! They have recently demonstrated, in Lion, on qualification tournament for the Olympic Games, the force of “brave hearts”, and “smashed” Japan, Romania and the host, France. We are going to London! Montenegro is young country, and this is the first time that we have female handball players in the Olympic Games. We have great hopes for them, as well as for our water polo players and all other sportsmen, because, just like every other nation in the 122 world, we wish to hear our hymn, see our flag raised, and feel and celebrate the joy of the best! Nevertheless, coming this far was not easy at all. What was happening before and after Lion, could our girls sleep peacefully awaiting for matches, what secrets held their meetings, talks, plans? “Each victory made us happy, we dreamed, just among ourselves, what would happen when we win everything there is to win, but we never talked publicly about it. Because, those are all private, small, sweet, sport hopes that are never shared with public in advance”, says Bojana Popović, the best handball player and spiritus movens of this triumph. “This is the third front of our great battle. We made it, although my Maja (Maja Savić, capitain) and I could barely climb the third floor on first preparations on Kopaonik. We were tired, washed out, but, as you see, we have found the way to conquer ourselves, and then everything else.” It is interesting that Bojana Popović, in many opinions, the best female team handball player, has never been in the Olympic Games. As fulfillment of some cosmic justice – she will have an opportunity to play with Montenegrin representation under the flames of Olympic fire. “I don’t think it has much to do with justice, it is just the way sometimes things “fall into place”. The younger players had luck, before this, they had won trophy of Championship league with club Budućnost. Marina, Suzana, and the other girls – as if it was a joke! They did not have to wait long, like Maja and me, and I am so happy for them. And now, I started crying, we both did, because what happened is at the end of our careers. Actually, this happened in a moment when we knew: we can go once in a lifetime, or never! We are happy because we made our cheerers and all the people in Montenegro, so happy, knowing they were anxious together with us, they watched every match with fright and hope, followed every our step. And we are happy that we are the ones who achieved such a tremendous success for Montenegro.” Nothing without Dragan! Dragan Adžić, very private trainer and selector of our female handball team, a man who raises his voice only when he wants time-out, patient in his work, reserved, and in front of public eye, almost impulsive, is an axis of a team that wins wherever it plays. Practicing an expert and conscientious team leadership, protecting the players from excessive meddling of public into their work, at the same time, honestly intervening to provide the best possible conditions for the girls, and not letting anything from outer world to blur their vision, brought these girls at the front door of sport paradise. They are going to Olympic Games, which is for him, as well as for the girls, the peak of entire so far career. Will the girls leave the great arena with their selector “on the shield or with it”, remains to be seen. We already know that they move forward without fear, that even Olympic Games are just games, and that they are successful and truly sports-like, only when the best win! That is the lesson Adžić taught his team. We believe in him, we believe in our girls, and we are waiting for the first flame of the Olympic fire! ble authority in front of all cheerers back in homeland, and sport lovers around the world! Or, as the great poet once wrote:“ Shiny weapon does not fight the battle, the brave heart does.” Heroes of our days are our handball players who so passionately believed in success. They did not yield was in Champion’s league, and that is the way now, in struggle to go to Olympic Games. We were always saying: “When the Qualification tournament is over, when we start preparations for the Olympics, when June 25 arrives…” Days still go by fulfilled with strong emotions. Bojana says that all the impressions keep them awake at night. They still “play the films” in their heads, They grew equally with victostill wondering whether it is Sky is no longer the limit. They flew over, ries and defeats. It seems that dream or reality. Sports is one Brazil, when they failed last of the key connections to the jumped, and they are already in London. Our year on World championship, world – if you are familiar with shiny, glowing stars! Devoted to each other was decisive. Popović explains: sport successes of certain co“I won’t let anyone defeat me. untry, you immediately know like musketeers. They live for team handball; I simply won’t. That spite, saeverything about that country, they love the fight, never backing out, enjoyuciness, desire, unity held us although you might not be up. You know how we played ing the goals, not hiding emotions that carry able to find it on a map. It is on Championship league, logical that countries, large by them while they hear their fans from cheerwhen we defeated Larvik from number of people and by size, ing stands, celebrating each assistance with Norway in semi-finale; I am have significant sport results, talking about success of club because quantity enables qu- raised fists. They are our great pride. They Budućnost, not to mention the ality. However, the most bea- are – the lionesses! finale…” utiful thing about sports is the fact that it is above all, based on individual in front of powerful French girls; no one Maja Savić agrees with Bojana that such motivation and strength, on self-sacrificing could scare them off. Our girls gave us all attitude preserved their energy and work of an individual, on his readiness to that sport can give: excitement, happine- strength for additional efforts and new deprive himself from lot of things to get ss, and pride! They enabled us to become successes. (Popović won six trophies on the results that might, or might not ever part of large sports family of all nations. Champion’s League, and Savić three.) Now, come. And when after all obstacles, limithe two of them, together with the rest of ted by humble conditions in homeland, Bojana Popović claims that they did not the girls, are going to Olympic Games: surrounded by thousands of problems, even consider the possibility of failing: “I am out of my mind when I think about faced with great sport forces on the field, “We never said if, but rather: when, Olympic Games”, says Maja, “And because I one does not give up, but on the contrary, when it happens, which was very im- think about it all the time, I am constantly goes forward constantly - that is what ma- portant, because it meant that the team out of my mind! We made it there, and just kes one a great sportsman and undisputa- is fighting without fear. That is the way it about a year ago, I have never even thou123 ght that something like this could happen to me. I thought that I would finish my career without experiencing the Games.” When talking about our handball representation and analyzing its success, no one even mentions sport luck. Luck, the imaginary goddess that guards the sportsmen, and protects dreams about cups and medals, had nothing to do with this case. “Blood, tears and sweat! That is our fate, and that is how we made it”, says Maja. “But I am happy. From the start we have shown Group A After the qualifications in Lion, Montenegrin handball players, through Paris, landed in London. They defeated Great Britain in the match before finale, in qualifications for European championship. That is where they waited for lots for Olympic Games: they will fight for the best possible position in group A: Montenegro, Russia, Croatia, Great Britain, Brazil, Angola. 124 what we want, and without unity in the team, we would never have made it.” That is how the most experienced, the best female handball players, women – legends, perceive their success. Otherwise, they are both married, and Maja has a daughter who plays for Danish Viborg! They don’t mind people recognizing them in the street, in cafes, at airports, and not only in our country. In Paris, last year, a female clerk approached them and asked:“ Montenegro? Handball? Please, can you tell me is Bojana Popović with you?” However, time passes relentlessly. Playing days of Bojana and Maja will also pass. Nevertheless, the success they achieved is eternal. The world remains on young people, so the work in club and in representa- tion will be left to Milena, Suzana, Marina, Majda, Rada, Joka… There are a lot of them, and it would not be fair to mention just a few. They are a team, and such team that cannot be defeated, and it is all that matters to them. Because they ran, trained, were exhausted together; determined to take care of each other, conscientiously protected and encouraged each other. It is time for them to celebrate together. This is the time of handball, the best in Europe, among the best in the world – the time of lion’s hearth! And our hearts will be stronger than all London clocks when we start giving goals, when we celebrate victories, and when we see Montenegrin flag waving above the winner’s stand! Good luck! Born in 1990 Selector of French representation, after being defeated by Montenegro, in a match that did not have the importance in result (both teams have already earned their way to Olympic Games), held a meeting with his players at 9 o’clock. He started by criticizing them: “Shame on you! You were outsmarted by girl who was born in 1990!?!” He was talking about Milena Knežević, the middle back of our representation. She stole their ball at the very finish, and we had only four of our players in the field! olimpijske igre 2012 Olimpijska magija Tekst: Maja Milačić „Život je nalik na Olimpijske igre: jedni trguju, drugi gledaju, treći se bore.” - Pitagora Ove godine domaćin Olimpijskih igara je kraljevski London, i nema sumnje da će sve biti na kraljevskom nivou, kako i priliči jednoj od najznačajnijih evropskih metropola. O limpijske igre su veličanstveno višesportsko takmičenje koje se održava svake četiri godine. Nazivamo ih i Olimpijade, ali Olimpijadom je u staroj Grčkoj nazivano razdoblje između dvaju Olimpijskih igara, pa tako završetkom Olimpijskih igara počinje jedna Olimpijada, a završetkom te Olimpijade počinju sljedeće Olimpijske igre. Kad završe, počinje slijedeća Olimpijada, itd. Ispravan i službeni naziv nekih Olimpijskih igara, npr. konkretno Igara 2004. godine u Atini glasi: „Igre XXVIII. Olimpijade modernog doba”. Te Igre, u Atini 2004. godine, ustvari nijesu 28. Olimpijske igre (od Atene 1896. godine, do danas) koje su održane - nego „tek” 25. 126 To otuda što Igre VI., XII. i XIII. Olimpijade modernog doba, koje su trebale biti održane u Berlinu 1916, Helsinkiju 1940. I Londonu 1944, zbog Prvog pa Drugog svjetskog rata, nisu ni održane. Ispravno nazvane „Igre i Olimpijade”, tj. Prve Olimpijske igre modernog doba (nisu imale prefiks ljetnje, jer tada još nije bilo pomena o potrebi održavanja posebnih, Zimskih Olimpijskih igara), održane su 1896. godine u Atini, i od tada se održavaju svake četiri godine (osim u vrijeme svjetskih ratova). Pošto se ubrzo ukazala potreba za jednako kvalitetnim takmičenjima u zimskim sportovima, uskoro su održane i prve Zimske Olimpijske igre u Shamoniju, Francuska, 1924. godine. Zimske su se Olimpijske igre održavale takođe svake četiri godine, u istoj godini kad i Ljetnje. Međutim, zbog obimnosti olimpijskog programa, ali i zbog zahtjeva moćnih TV kuća, odlučeno je da se razdvoje termini održavanja Ljetnjih i Zimskih igara. Oduvijek je san svakog sportiste da nastupi na Olimpijskim igrama, ali, zbilja, to nije dovoljno. Treba stremiti najboljem, najvišem mogućem, postati dio istorije kao pobjednik, postati idol i uzor drugima i širiti sportski i pobjednički duh. Ono što je najvažnije za Crnu Goru je da će je na Olimpijskim igrama, drugima na kojima učestvuje od obnove samostalnosti 2006. godine, predstavljati tridesetdvoje sportista, u pet sportova (dva ekipna, tri pojedinačna). U atletici su olimpijsku normu ispunili Marija Vuković, u skoku u vis (prva sportistkinja koja se popela na pobjedničko postolje u pojedinačnim sportovima od obnove nezavisnosti 2006.), Danijel Furtula, u bacanju diska, i sjajna Slađana Perunović, u disciplini maraton. Nikola Šaranović. Od sveg srca mu želimo što više pogodaka u centar! Naravno, tu su ,,the best of the best”: rukometašice i vaterpolisti, i upravo će u njih biti uprte sve oči. U kvalifikacijama za OI bili su silni, prosto su „oduvali” protivnike, što nam daje za pravo da ih smatramo favoritima za medalju. Članovi i članice ovih dvaju reprezentacija su jednovremeno i okosnice evropskih šampiona - vaterpolo kluba Primorac i rukomentog kluba Budućnost. Da nam nije važno samo učestvovati, to smo odavno pokazali… Džudista Srđan Mrvaljević je odavno, kroz prethodna svjetska takmičenja i vrhunske rezultate, pokazao da ima talenat i kapacitet za sjajno olimpijsko odličje. U streljaštvu, boje Crne Gore braniće 127 Olympic Games 2012 Olympic Magic “Life resembles Olympic Games: ones trade, the others watch, the third fight.”- Pythagoras Text: Maja Milačić O lympic Games are magnificent multi-disciplinarian sports championship, held every fourth year. We also call them The Olympics, however, in ancient Greece, it was name for the period between two Olympic Games; so by ending of the Olympic Games, begins one Olympics, and by ending of that Olympics, begin another Olympic Games. After the Olympic Games are over, another Olympics begins, and so on. Accurate and official name of some of the Olympic Games was, for example, Games from 2004 in Athens were named:” XXVIII Games of the Olympics of modern age”. Those Games in Athens from 2004, actually we- 128 role model and idol for others, and at spreading sport’s and winner’s spirit. re not 28th Olympic Games (from Athena in 1896 until today) that were held – they are “just” 25th Games. That is because VI, XII and XIII Games of the Olympics of modern age, that were supposed to take place in Berlin in 1916, Helsinki 1940 and London 1944, due to I, then II World War could not be organized. By the exact name “Games and the Olympics”, e.g. the First Olympic Games of modern age (they still did not have prefix summer, because in that time no one even mentioned the need to organize special, Winter Olympic Games) they were first held in 1896 in Athens, and ever since have been organized every fourth year (except in time of world wars). Soon, there was a need for equally quality com- petitions in winter sports, so first Winter Olympic Games took place in Shamony, France, in 1924. Winter Olympic Games have also been organized on every fourth year, the same as Summer ones. However, due to extensiveness of Olympic program, and due to requests of powerful TV houses, it has been decided to separate the terms of Summer and Winter Olympic Games. Every sportsman dreams of performing on Olympic Games, but in reality, the dream itself is not enough. One should aim at the best, the highest possible, at becoming a part of history as a winner, at becoming a This year, the host of Olympic Games is royal London, and there is no doubt that everything will be on royal level, as becomes to one of the most important European metropolis. The most important thing for Montenegro, is that on these Olympic Games, the second ones Montenegro is taking part on, since 2006 and renewal of its independence, thirty-two sportsmen from five different sports (two team and three individual) will be representing it. In athletics, Marija Vuković qualified for Olympic standard, in discipline high jump (she was the first sports player who climbed the winner’s stand in individual sports since renewal of independence in 2006), Danijel Furtula, in disk throwing, and great Slađana Perunović in the discipline of marathon. Judist Srđan Mrvaljević showed us long time ago, through previous world championships and top results, that he indisputably possesses talent and capacity for shining Olympic medal. In discipline of archery, Nikola Šaranović will defend colours of Montenegro. We wish him as many hits to the target as possible, from the bottom of our hearts! the best”: female team handball players and water polo players, and all eyes will be on them. They were unstoppable during qualifications for Olympic Games, they simply “blown away” their opponents, all of which gives us the right to consider them candidates for the medal. Female and male members of those teams are at the same time, main players of their own clubs – water polo club “Primorac” and handball club “Budućnost”. We have already shown that it is not just about participating… Of course, last but not least, “the best of 129 Mareza bb, Podgorica, +382 67 765 800, www.imanje-knjaz.me Crnogorske TOP destinacije ODLIČAN, PET! Foto: NTO After beach parties Koliko puta ste, za lijepi dan na plaži poželjeli da traje što duže? Na plažama u Crnoj Gori - vaša želja će biti lako ispunjena! I ove sezone, duž crnogorske rivijere biće organizovane žurke nakon sunčanja i kupanja, koje će produžiti dobru zabavu sa gostima i prijateljima iz cijelog svijeta. After beach parties je Festival namijenjen uglavnom mlađoj populaciji i zaljubljenicima u elektronsku muziku različitih žanrova. Planirano je 300 zabava, koje će se organizovati u popodnevnim časovima na deset naših plaža, od 16. jula do 14. avgusta. Dobru zabavu u navedenom periodu, garantuju neka od najvećih imena regionalne i svjetske DJ scene. Dođite na plažu i plešite sa talasima, uz najljepše ljetnje ritmove! Biciklom kroz pejzaže bez kraja Sama Crna Gora je top destinacija: očaravaju njeni planinski vijenci na sjeveru i sjevero-istoku, klanci i kanjoni duž rijeka, bistra prostranstva čistih jezera i plavi, sunčani svod nad dugim plažama. Samo ovdje je moguće u istom danu na planini brati šumske jagode, potom ručati u nekom od nacionalnih restorana u centralnoj Crnoj Gori, a uveče otići u provod na neku od naših pješčanih plaža R azumljivo je zašto je u Crnoj Gori teško odabrati samo neke od turistički atraktivnih ponuda. Ipak, u Nacionalnoj turističkoj oraganizaciji su se potrudili da odaberu destinacije različitih karakteristika, da bi konkretnije i jasnije razumjeli svu raskoš naše prirode i obimnost turističkih ponuda. Po savjetu Nacionalne turističke organizacije, evo 5 top destinacija koje ne smijete propustiti ovoga ljeta: 132 Kanjon Nevidio Planina Durmitor i planina Vojnik, jedna ka drugoj naslonjene, kao da skrivaju između sebe rijeku Komarnicu. Kroz ljutu stijenu, Komarnica je usjekla kanjon, koji je posljednji osvojen u Evropi. Kanjon je dug 3,5 km. Stotinjak metara pred ulaz u kanjon, huči veliki vodopad Grabovine. Kasnije, cijelim kanjonom gospodare pjenušavi bukovi, vodopadi, tjesnaci, uzani kanali i čitava galerija kamenih figura. Najizazovnija u kanjo- nu je takozvana Kapija kamikaza - dionica duga oko 80 m, mjestimično široka samo 25 cm. Proći kapijom kamikaza znači na licu mjesta iskusiti zašto se kanjon Komarnice zove Nevidio! Za to iskustvo potrebne su sve moguće vještine. Oni, koji se odluče za ovu alpinističku avanturu bez premca, treba da znaju da ko jednom krene niz galerije, bukove i vodopade Nevidia, može izaći samo ako dospije do njegovog kraja na drugoj strani. Jer, povratak unazad nije moguć. Ali, zato, svi koji su vidjeli i iskusili Nevidio, imaju nenadmašnu uspomenu. Kroz nepregledne visoravni u čak 5 nacionalnih parkova, biciklom možete da pređete preko 6000 km markiranih staza. Ono što ćete vidjeti ne može se izraziti riječima! Ova tura počinje od glavnog grada Podgorice i vodi kroz nezaboravni spektar raznolikih pejzaža. Na početku, udobno vozite putevima kroz šarolika, mala mjesta. Odmorite se u Danilovgradu prije nego što počnete penjanje kroz šume ka planinama. Na Vučju možete predahnuti: organizovani su izleti do Kapetanovog jezera i Maganika. Doduše, možete i brodom po Pivskom jezeru. Na dionici Smriječno-Ravno čeka vas najimperesivniji dio ove ture: netaknuta, neodoljiva ljepota prirode! Još jedan od dragulja koje ćete vidjeti je kanjon Tare, najdublji u Evropi (1300m). Ovdje ostavite biciklo na par dana i uživajte u raftingu Tarom, kristalno čistom rijekom, dok vas opija ljepota njenog kanjona. A kad se opet mašite bicikla i nastavite put, doći ćete do najneobičnijih predjela u cijeloj Evropi: visoravni planine Sinjajevine. Široki zeleni pojasevi su cijelog ljeta prekriveni šarenilom divljeg cvijeća. Magična ljepota visoravni pratiće vas dok se spuštate ka Rikavačkom jezeru. Posljednji, strmi uspon ove biciklističke ture završava se vidi- kovcima sa kojih vam se čini da su masivi Prokletija raširili svoja velika, planinska naručja samo za vas. Prokletije inače, mnogi smatraju najljepšom crnogorskom planinom. Ruta se završava laganim spustom natrag do Podgorice. Ova tura, kompletna, traje 7 - 9 dana, ali možete voziti i samo odabrani dio. Otvoreni kamp projekat “5 u 5” Izgradnja pet visokokvalitetnih kamp odmorišta za mobilhome, u pet nacionalnih parkova, ima za cilj i podsticanje razvoja kamp turizma uopšte. Prvi otvoreni kamp, nalazi se u Nacionalnom parku Biogradska gora, i po veoma pristupačnoj cijeni, možete ovdje boraviti, u svom kamp vozilu. Biogradska gora sa svojim glacijalnim jezerom i stoljećima starom prašumom, uvjeriće vas da je priroda najbolji pokrovitelj odmora. Iste otvorene kampove, naći ćete i u ostalim nacionalnim parkovima. Putevima Stare Crne Gore Stara Crna Gora, riznica kulture, istorije, tradicije, folklora, autentične nacionalne kuhinje i gostoprimstva crnogorskog naroda, smještena je u srcu današnje države. Zbog atraktivnosti lokacije, pravi je izazov za posjetioce željne avanture, pješačenja, kajakinga, prirode i čistog vazduha. Susret kontinentalne i mediteranske klime, čini njene poljoprivredne proizvode ukusnim i aromatičnim na neočekivan način. Pozivamo vas da prilikom sljedeće posjete ovom regionu obidjete vinske podrume i uživate u Vrancu i Krstaču, vinima čuvene sorte, sada već uveliko cenjene svuda u svijetu. Skoro svako domaćinstvo ovdje, proizvodi domaće vino i poželjeće vam dobrodošlicu uz punu čašu, najbolji domaći sir i pršutu. To trojstvo je ukus ovih krajeva, i dugo se pamti. U cetinjskom kraju, nadomak primorja, a istovremeno blizu Skadarskog jezera i živopisne Rijeke Crnojevića, otkrićete pravo malo medeno carstvo! Gostoljubivi pčelari će vas ugostiti ne samo ekološki zdravim medom, nego će vam ponuditi i mnoge druge apsolutno prirodne pčelarske proizvode: prehrambene, ljekovite, kozmetičke... Domaćini nude i udoban smeštaj ukoliko želite sebi priuštiti opuštajući odmor u veličanstvenom miru i tišini. Lokalne znamenitosti pokazaće vam mještani, a one stare legende možete čuti samo od dobrodušnih i gostoljubivih staraca, vazda voljnih za duge razgovore. Tako ćete iskusiti autentičan život malog mjesta, sačuvan i spašen od nervoze i brzine današnjeg životnog stila. Ako pratite putokaze na Putu meda, garantujemo vam slatku i zdravu avanturu! Dobrodošli! Više informacija o turističkoj ponudi na www.montenegro.travel 133 Montenegrin TOP destinations straight a! The whole Montenegro is top destination: its mountain ranges on east and northeast, gorges and canyons along rivers, clear spaces of lakes, and blue, sunny sky above long beaches, are simply enchanting. Only here, in Montenegro, is possible to pick wild strawberries, then have a lunch in one of the national restaurants in middle Montenegro, and in the evening, experience nightlife on some of our sandy beaches, all that in only one day. Photo: NTO I t is understandable why it is difficult to pick only one of all the tourist offers in Montenegro. However, National tourist organization has made an effort to choose destinations with different characteristics, so that visitors could have clearer and better understanding of all the splendour of our nature, and abundance of tourist offers. According to recommendations of National tourist organization, five top destinations you simply must not miss this summer are: Canyon Nevidio Mountain Durmitor, and mountain Vojnik, leaned towards each other, as if they are trying to hide river Komarnica among themselves. Through wrathful cliff, Komarnica cut a canyon that was the last one in Europe to be conquered. This canyon is 3,5 km long. Some hundred me134 ters in front of the canyon’s entrance, roars great waterfall Grabovine. Further on, through entire canyon govern frothy cascades, waterfalls, gorges, narrow channels and entire gallery of stone figures. The most challenging part of the canyon is so-called Gate of kamikaze – share of the road, wide approximately 25 cm. To pass through this gate means to immediately experience why this canyon was called Nevidio! You will need every possible skill to get through such experience. Those, who venture into this unmatched alpine adventure, should know that the only way out of those galleries, cascades and waterfalls of Nevidio, is to reach the end of the canyon, but on the other side. It is not possible to return back once you step on this road. Nevertheless, anyone who has ever seen or experienced Nevidio, has an unsurpassed memory. After beach parties How many times you wished a nice day on beach could last as long as possible? On beaches in Montenegro – your wish will easily be fulfilled! Again, this season, along Montenegrin Riviera, there will be parties after sunbathing and swimming and in such way, good time with guests and friends from all over the world, will be prolonged. After beach parties is a Festival created mostly for younger population and fans of electronic music of various genres. 300 parties are planned, and they will be organized in the afternoon on ten of our beaches, from July 16 to August 14. Some of the greatest names of regional and worldwide DJ-ing scene guarantee great fun in this period. Come to the beach and dance with waves, with the most beautiful summer rhythms as soundtrack! On bicycle through interminable landscapes You can cross over 6 000 km of marked paths by bicycle, through measureless plateaus in no less than 5 national parks. Words will not be able to describe the sights you will see! This tour begins in capital city Podgorica and leads through unforgettable range of diverse landscapes. In the beginning, you can ride your bike comfortably on roads through picturesque, small places. Take a break in Danilovgrad before you start climbing though woods towards mountains. You can rest in Vučje: there are organized excursions to Kapetanovo Lake (Capitain’s lake) and Maganik. You can also take a boat and cruise on Piva Lake. On segment Smriječno – Ravno, the most impressive part of this tour is awaiting - intact, irresistible beauty of nature! Another gem you will get to see is canyon of river Tara, the deepest one in Europe (1300 m). This is where you can leave your bicycle for a few days and enjoy rafting on Tara, crystal clear river, while the beauty of its canyon keeps enchanting you. And when you mount your bicycle again and hit the road, you will encounter most unusual landscapes in entire Europe: plateaus of Sinjajevina mountain. Wide, green belts covered in vivid wild flowers all summer long. Magical beauty of the plateau will follow you as you keep descending towards Rikavačko Lake. The last, steep ascent of this cycling tour ends with plateaus from which it seems that massifs of Prokletije have opened their huge, mountain arms especially for you. Prokletije are thought by many, to be the most beautiful Montenegrin mountain. The route ends with easy descend back to Podgorica. This tour lasts 7 to 9 days, but you can also choose to ride only specific parts of it. Open camp project “5 in 5” Building of high quality camp rests for mobile homes, in five national parks, aimed at encouraging the development of camping tourism in general. First open camp is in National park Biogradska mountain, where you can stay with your own camp vehicle for a reasonable price. Biogradska mountain with its glacial lake and hundreds of years old primeval forest, will convince you that the nature is the best patron of the rest. You will find the same open camps in other national parks. On the roads of Old Royal Montenegro Old Royal Montenegro, treasury of culture, tradition, folklore, authentic national cuisine and hospitality of Montenegrin people, is situated in the very heart of the today’s country. Due to attractive location, it presents a true challenge for visitors who desire for adventure, hiking, kayaking, nature and fresh air. The meeting of continental and Mediterranean climate makes its agricultural products tasteful and full of unexpected aromas. Next time you come to this region, we invite you to visit wine basements and enjoy Vranac and Krstač, famous brands of wine, now appraised all over the world. Almost every local household produces their own wine, and they will welcome you with a full glass, the best homemade cheese and prosciuto. That threesome unity is the flavour of these regions and you will remember it for a long time. Near Cetinje, not so far from the coast, yet close to the Skadar Lake and picturesque Crnojevića River, you will discover true, small honey empire! Hospitable beekeepers will offer you not only ecologically healthy honey, but also many other, completely natural apicultural products: nutritive, medicinal, cosmetic… Hosts also offer cozy accommodation if you desire to treat yourself with relaxing vacation in magnificent peace and quiet. Locals will show you local sights, and good-natured and hospitable old men, always willing to talk, will tell you some old legends. That way, you will be able to experience authentic life of small village, protected and saved from stress and speed of modern lifestyle. If you follow signposts on The Road of Honey, we guarantee you sweet and healthy adventure! Welcome! 135 Iz istorije naših gradova - Ulcinj EHO GUSARSKE SLAVE Piše: Mustafa Canka U prkos hrišćanskoj zabrani trgovine ljudima, Venecija je još od XVI vijeka, bila središte trgovine robovima. Dobro organizovane pijace robova, bile su specijalnost i Malte, Mesine, Livorna… Taj vrlo isplativ posao razvio se i u drugim sre- dozemnim gradovima-lukama, pa postoje podaci da je, recimo, iz Boke u južnu Italiju, za samo par godina, prodato oko hiljadu robova. Primat Herceg Novog u ovom unosnom poslu, preuzeo je Ulcinj, raskošni grad raskošne trgovine, utočište i dom avanturista i gusara, prva ili posljednja stanica robovima koji su nestajali u dalekim zemljama preko Sredozemlja ili u potpalublju dugih ulcinjskih i inih galija. Zarobljavanje ljudi bio je posao kojem niko nije osporavao legalnost. Ljudi su najdragocjenija i najskupocjenija roba u vodama Sredozemlja sve do početka XIX vijeka. Da bi se naoružale galije svih flota koje su se susretale ili borile na Mediteranu, trebalo je, prije svega, riješiti problem ljudstva. Gdje bi se moglo naći toliko ljudi potrebnih za veslanje da nije bilo robova, ratnih zarobljenika i osuđenika oslobođenih tamnice da bi bili privezani za vesla? Najveća osmanska pijaca roblja bila je u Valoni. Sa druge strane Jadrana, sajmovi su bili najbolja prilika za prodaju robova. Tamo se oni prodaju na licitaciji, a cijene se oko 30 dukata. Otkup, ipak, nije zavisio od procijenjene vrijednosti zarobljenika, već od vrijednosti koju njegov budući gospodar pretpostavlja da rob ima. Većina robova u Ulcinju, gotovo njih tri četvrtine, bili su iz Napuljske kraljevine i Papske države; ostali su bili iz Dalmacije i Dubrovačke republike. Ulcinjski gusari su na obalama Apulije i Sicilije uglavnom pljačkali bogate vile, a sa sobom su odvodili njihove vlasnike koje su potom prodavali kao robove. Ulcinjani su robove tretirali kao zarobljenike i nijesu ih koristili kao radnu snagu, već da bi dobili otkup od srodnika, prijatelja ili zemljaka uhvaćenih ljudi. Zato su omogućavali robovima da se jave svojim porodicama ili prijateljima, obavijeste ih da su u Ulcinju, ne bi li ih otkupili. Otkupi su često obavljani na neutralnom terenu, uglavnom u Dubrovniku. Predanje, u stvari, pominje izvjesnog Serveta, čija se sudbina, ali i osnova imena, poklapa sa Servantesovim. Prema predanju je ovdje, među starogradskim zidinama, dugo čekajući otkup, boravio rob Servet, koji će na kraju postati i ulcinjski zet. I ovjekovječiti ime Ulcinja. Istina, u brojnim tekstovima se navodi da je Miguel de Servantes dopao robije ”jednog dana 1575. godine kada su tri ulcinjska leuta (brzi gusarski čamci) napali neku špansku fregatu u Sredozemnom moru. U krvavom obračunu, gusari su savladali ratoborne Špance i brod sa zarobljenicima dovezli u svoju luku. Među zarobljenicima pronađen je i jedan sa posebnom preporukom španskog monarha. To je značilo da se radi o vrijednom robu, za koga je, prema procjeni vlasnika, trebalo uzeti dosta zlata”. 136 Dubrovačka vlada je u januaru 1653. primila pismo iz Ulcinja kojim se poziva: „… da preuzme dubrovačko roblje koje su Ulcinjani bili prekupili od Maura, i to po onim cijenama po kojima je ono kupljeno.” U suprotnom, navedeno je: „…to roblje će se preprodati u udaljenije krajeve. ” Iste godine skadarskom sandžak-begu bio je upućen Luka Petrović sa pismom dubrovačke vlade, uz koje su priključena pisma velikog vezira i kapudan-paše Muhameda prema kojima turski haračari Dubrovčani ne mogu biti roblje u Imperiji. Legenda o robu Servetu Ulcinjsko narodno predanje bilježi da je i slavni španski pisac Miguel de Servantes bio rob strašnih ulcinjskih gusara! Štoviše, i njegovo znamenito djelo „Don Kihot” i glavna junakinja romana, Dulčineja od Toboza, dovode se u vezu sa navodnim zatočenistvom u Ulcinju. Jer, tvrde oni, „Don Kihot” je nastao poslije Servantesovog robovanja u ulcinjskom Starom gradu, koji se u romanskim državama, kako tada, tako i danas, naziva Dulcinjo ili Dolcinjo. To bi moglo da znači da je Dulčineja drugo ime za Ulcinjanku. Foto: Risto Božović Gusari ne haju za Portu Po priči, koju je zapisao književnik Milenko Ratković, otac i sestra Miguela de Servantesa, prodali su sve što su imali da otkupe njega i brata mu Rodriga. Međutim, sakupljena suma bila je dovoljna za slobodu samo jednoga. Miguel je odlučio da se Rodrigo vrati u Španiju. Ostao je da čeka drugu priliku. A ona dugo nije stizala. Iako je stalno bio izlagan na Trgu robova u Starom gradu, Španca niko nije htio da otkupi. Po nekim zapisima, vlasnik je kasnije Miguela odveo u Alžir, gdje ga je kupio jedan od najsvirepijih tamošnjih glavara, izvjesni Hasan-aga. Odatle je Servantes uspio da se izvuče zahvaljujući španskim fratrima koji su otkupljivali zemljake zarobljene po Mediteranu. Za Miguela, kažu zapisi, morali su da izbroje 500 zlatnih talira i tako je on, kako se navodi, poslije pet godina teškog robovanja, stupio na špansku zemlju. Tek nakon toga će uslijediti „Don Kihot” i priča o Dulčineji, odnosno Ulcinjanki. U narodnom predanju se mnogo toga slaže sa onim što stoji u zapisima. Ono govori da su gusari zarobljavali „svakakve ljude”, a najviše su voljeli kad im šaka dopadnu bogataši ili znameniti kapetani. Naravno, zbog visine otkupa. Legenda koja se dovodi u vezu sa Servantesom, kaže kako je jednom u Stari grad stigao rob za koga se pretpostavljalo da je poseban, te zato vrlo vrijedan, ali nijesu mogli utvrditi o kome se radi. Nazvali su ga Servet, što je, evidentno, osnovica imena kasnije slavnog Španca. Njegovo ponašanje pratilo se sa posebnom pažnjom. Ovaj bi rob, primijetili su mještani, do kasno u noć ostajao budan u svojoj ćeliji, uvijek zamišljen i nadnesen nad svoje zapise. Danju je, interesantno, uvijek pjevao, pa su djevojke često otvarale prozore da ga slušaju. Jednoj djevojci, kaže predanje, to nije bilo dovoljno, pa je svaki put kada bi rob Servet pošao u šetnju dozvoljenim stazama, išla za njim. I tako se rodila ljubav između mještanke i nepoznatog roba. Nakon nekoliko godina, jedan stranac je donio mnoštvo novaca i oslobodio roba, koji je sa sobom poveo i lijepu Starograđanku. Tako se i u predanju, baš kao i u zapisima, mozaik o Servantesovom robovanju, sklopio u istovjetnu ljubavnu legendu! 137 Dubrovački senatori su se na licu mjesta uvjerili da gusari Ulcinja i Santa Maure malo haju za sultanove fermane. Marin Borisi, dubrovački emisar koji je poslat u Ulcinj, javlja da: „Tamošnje age nijesu obezvlašćene naredbama Porte i rastu njihove akcije na moru.” Zbog toga se stalno povećavao broj zasuženih Dubrovčana, a ni staro roblje nije puštano. U jeku Kandijskog rata, 1662. god, ovdje je boravio čuveni turski putopisac Evlija Čelebija, koji zapisuje da u Ulcinj: „Dolaze odvažni arnautski momci iz drugih kasaba, sjedaju u fregate i plijene, pljačkaju i pustoše neprijateljsku obalu... Donoseći bezbrojno blago i odabrano roblje, vraćaju se u Ulcinj kao pobjednici i daju sandžak-begu desetak od plijena. Tako sam ja, siromah, bio u ovom gradu i dok sam ga posmatrao, došlo je iz đaurske Pulje sedam fregata sa ratnim plijenom. Od tih sedam fregata plijena Jusuf-begu je pripalo devedeset jedna hiljada groša carskog desetka i sedamnaest robova“. Dakle, samo u toj akciji ulcinjski gusari su na jugu Italije zarobili 170 robova!? Ulcinjani su poslije zemljotresa 1667. masovno dovodili u svoj grad roblje iz Dubrovnika, zarobljavajući i plemiće. „Ako se ne stane na put gusarima, svi će postati roblje Ulcinjana“, pisali su Dubrovčani Porti u martu 1668. godine. Ipak, mnogi su bogataši i uglednici imali robove. Svoje roblje imali su zapovjednik grada Murat, skadarski emin Ali-beg, skadarski janjičar Halilaga, Resul-aga Sori i mnogi drugi, a samo jedan pravi gusar – Jusuf reis. Sve po pravu i zakonu Dakle, tokom Prvog morejskog rata (16831699.) Ulcinj je važna pijaca hrišćanskog roblja. Dozvolu za prodaju izdavao je zapovjednik Ulcinja Oruč-aga, svakako i sam naplaćujući na dobitak, prema običajnom pravu. A običajno pravo bilo je duga, nesalomiva institucija. Trgovina robovima dostigla je zenit početkom XVIII vijeka. Od 1708-1712. godine na prodaji je bilo oko 200 robova, a polovina je otkupljena u jadranskim gradovima. Ulcinjani su u junu 1715. doveli kao zaro138 bljenika sa Korčule, župnika Marka Bona. Prodat je na aukciji za 100 cekina. Nakon dvije godine, kada je njegova rodbina saznala gdje se nalazi, otkupila ga je za 141 cekin. Novo vrijeme – novi ukusi, pa se od sredine XVIII vijeka sve više traže robovi iz Afrike. Ulcinjanin Ali Baša doveo je 1770. iz Egipta dvije robinje, a jedna grupa koja se vratila 1775. iz sjeverne Afrike dovela je 13 crnih robova i robinja. Svoje robove Ulcinjani su često kupovali i u Tripoliju, u koji je roblje stizalo iz Sudana. Oni bi potom bili preprodavani ili dovođeni u Ulcinj, gdje bi uskoro postajali slobodni građani i bavili se zemljoradnjom i pomorstvom. Nakon što je Crna Gora preuzela Ulcinj 1880. godine, neki ulcinjski Arapi iselili su se u Albaniju. Brodovlasnik Bet Đuli je sa sobom poveo osam svojih Arapa, a hadži Mehmet Beci petoro njih. Ipak, u Ulcinju je sve do savremenog doba bilo građana crne puti. Ulcinjski crnci, kao eho duge gusarske slave, bili su omiljeni sugrađani, a njihova egzotična lica dokaz da ni more, ni svijet nijesu veći od avanturističkog duha čovjekovog. From history of our towns – Ulcinj Echo of pirates’ fame By: Mustafa Canka D Maurians, and by the prices slaves were bought for.” Otherwise, it was stated that: ”…those slaves will be sold to distant countries.” That same year Luka Petrović was sent to Sanjak bey form Skadar, carrying letter from Government from Dubrovnik, together with letters of great vizier and pasha Muhamed, according to whom Turkish tax collectors from Dubrovnik cannot be slaves in Empire. Senators from Dubrovnik could see on the spot that pirates from Ulcinj and Saint Maura could not care less about sultan’s laws. Marin Borisi, delegate from Dubrovnik sent to Ulcinj, reported that:“ Local agas do not have less government because of orders from Porte, and their ac- tion on sea keeps growing.” That were the reasons the number of enslaved people from Dubrovnik was getting bigger, and even the old slaves were not let free. In the middle of Candian war, in 1662, famous world traveler Evlija Čelebija who visited Ulcinj, wrote down that to Ulcinj:”Come brave Arnaut boys from other provincial towns, sit in boats and ransack, rob and devastate hostile coast…Bringing enormous treasure and selected slaves, they return to Ulcinj as winners and give sanjak bey tenth percent of the plunder. Therefore, when I was in this town, observing it, seven boats with war plunder came from Pula. Out of seven boats of plunder, Jusuf bey got twenty one thousand coins Legend of slave Cervet Popular legend from Ulcinj says that even famous Spanish writer Miguel de Cervantes was enslaved by scary pirates from Ulcinj! However, his prominent book “Don Quixote” and main female character, Dulcinea del Toboso, are connected to his alleged slavery in Ulcinj.. Because, as they claim, “Don Qiuxote” was written after Cervantes was enslaved in Old town in Ulcinj, which is in Roman countries, then and now, called Dulcinio or Dolcino. That could mean that Dulcinea was actually another name for woman from Dolcino. The legend in fact, mentions certain Cervet, whose destiny, and base of the name coincides with those of Cervantes. According to legend, here, among walls of Old town, waiting long for ransom, was slave Cervet, who will eventually become even the son-in-law in Ulcinj. And he will mark the name of Ulcinj in history. Enslaving people was job whose legality no one questioned. People were most precious and most valuable merchandise in waters of Mediterranean until the beginning of XIX century. The first issue to solve was the human issue, when there was need to arm galleys of all fleets that encountered one another in Mediterranean or fought against each other. Where could all those people necessary to row be found if there were not for slaves, war prisoners and convicts freed from dungeons just to be tied to rows? 140 Pirates do not care about Porte Government form Dubrovnik in January 1653 received a letter from Ulcinj that invited to: …”take over slaves from Dubrovnik that Pirates from Ulcinj collected from espite the fact that Christians banned trading people, Venice was the center of slave trafficking since XVI century. Well-organized slave markets were specialties of Malta, Mesina, Livorno… That extremely profitable business developed in other Mediterranean towns-harbors, so there are records that, for example, from Boka to south Italy, in only a couple of years, around thousand slaves were sold. Ulcinj, being a splendid town with magnificent trade, refuge and home for adventurers and pirates, first and last station for slaves who then disappeared in faraway countries over Mediterranean or in down decks of long galleys from Ulcinj or elsewhere, took over a leadership in this lucrative business from Herceg Novi. The largest Ottoman slave market was in Valona. On the other side of Adriatic Sea, fairs were best occasions for slave selling. Slaves were sold on auctions, and prices were around 30 gold coins. Ransom, however, did not depend on approximated value of the captive, but on the value, his future master supposed that slave had. ners, and never used them as working force, but to get ransom money from their relatives, friends or their countrymen. That is why they permitted their slaves to contact their families and friends, let them know that they are in Ulcinj, so they could be bought off. Buying off was often performed on neutral territory, mostly in Dubrovnik. True, numerous texts stated that Miguel de Cervantes was enslaved “one day in 1575 when tri fast pirate boats attacked a Spanish ship in the Mediterranean. In bloody fight, pirates overpowered warlike-spirited Spanish people and brought the ship with captives in their harbor. There was one captive among them, who had a special recommendation from Spanish monarch. That meant that it was valuable slave, for whom, according to estimation of his owner, a lot of gold should be taken.” Majority of slaves in Ulcinj, almost three quarters of them, were from kingdom of Napoli and Pope’s republic; the rest were from Dalmatia and Republic of Dubrovnik. Pirates from Ulcinj usually robbed rich vi- llas on shores of Apuly and Sicilia, and took their owners, whom they later sold as slaves. According to this story, written by author Milenko Ratković, father and sister of Miguel de Cervantes sold everything they had to buy him and his brother Rodrigo off. However, collected money was enough only for one of them. Miguel decided that Rodrigo should go back to Spain. He stayed to wait for another chance. Nevertheless, that chance did not come for a long time. Although he was constantly on exhibition on Square of slaves in Old town, no one wanted to buy this Spaniard. According to some writings, owner later took Miguel to Algeria, where one of the cruelest local governors, certain Hasan-aga, bought him. Cervantes was saved from there thanks to Spanish friars, who were buying off their countrymen, captured along Mediterranean countries. As notes say, they had to cash 500 golden talers, so he, as the story tells, after five years of hard life in slavery, entered the Spanish land. Only after that experience, he wrote “Don Quixote” and the story about Dulcinea, or, woman from Ulcinj. Popular legend is in many ways similar to the facts written in notes. The legend says that pirates enslaved “all kinds of people”, and they preferred to catch rich man or famous captains. Of course, they did that because of the amount of ransom money. Legend, connected to Cervantes, says that once in Old town slave arrived who was supposed to be special, and therefore very valuable, but they could not establish who he actually was. They named him Cervet, which is, apparently, base of the name of the famous Spanish. They observed his behavior with special attention. Locals noticed that this slave would stay up late at night in his cell, always pensive and bent over his writings. During daytime he would always sing, which was interesting, so the girls often opened windows just to listen to him. According to legend, there was one girl who could not be satisfied just by listening, so every time the slave Cervet would go for a walk on permitted paths, she would follow him. Therefore, the love between local girl and unknown slave was born. A few years later, an old man brought a lot of money and freed slave, who took beautiful girl from Old town with himself. That way in the legend, just as in facts, mosaic about Cervantes’s slavery matched into the same love legend! Citizens of Ulcinj treated slaves as priso141 of tsar’s tenth percent and seventeen slaves.“ So, only in that single action, pirates from Ulcinj captured 170 slaves in south of Italy!? After the earthquake in 1667, people from Ulcinj constantly brought slaves from Dubrovnik to their town, enslaving even the noblemen. “If one doesn’t stand in their way, pirates from Ulcinj will enslave everyone”, wrote to Porte people from Dubrovnik in March 1668. However, many rich and respected people had their own slaves. Their own personal slaves had town commander Murat, Skadar emir Ali-bey, Skadar janissary Halil-aga, Resul-aga Sori, and many others, and only one among them was a real pirate – Jusuf reis. Everything by the law and order Therefore, during the first Morey war (1683 to 1699), Ulcinj was important market of Christian slaves. Ulcinj commander Oruč- 142 aga, who was also taking certain percentage from plunder, according to custom law, issued sales permission. Moreover, custom law was long, unbreakable institution. Slave trafficking reached its peak in the beginning of XVIII century. From 1708 to 1712, there were around 200 slaves on sale, half of which bought off in Adriatic towns. Pirates from Ulcinj in June 1715 brought as captive parish priest from Korčula, Marko Bon. He was sold on auction for 100 cekins (kind of currency from that time). Two years later, when his relatives found out about his whereabouts, they bought him off for 141 cekins. New time – new tastes, so from the middle of XVIII century, there was raising demand for slaves from Africa. Ali Baša from Ulcinj brought from Egypt two female slaves in 1770, and one group, which returned from North Africa in 1775, brought 13 black male and female slaves. People from Ulcinj often bought their slaves in Tripoli, where slaves arrived from Sudan. The slaves then would be resold or brought to Ulcinj, whe- re they soon became free citizens and worked in agriculture and sailing. After Montenegro took Ulcinj over in 1880, some Arabs from Ulcinj moved away to Albania. Ship owner Bet Đuli took along with himself eight of his Arabs, and pilgrim Mehmet Beci five of them. However, citizens with black skin color remained in Ulcinj to modern times. Black people from Ulcinj, representing an echo of pirates’ fame, were popular co-citizens, and their exotic faces proved that neither sea, nor the world, are larger than man’s adventurous spirit. Rukometašica Budućnosti, Milena Knežević, podiže prvu Plavu zastavicu u sezoni 2012, na kupalištu - “Escallera”, plaža Jaz JUŽNE PRIČE – LIJEPE NAŠE PLAŽE Svečano podizanje Plavih zastavica Tekst: Bratislav Kokolj Fotografije: Arhiv JP Morsko dobro Prestižno međunarodno priznanje – Plavu zastavicu, po Programu koji realizuju Međunarodna mreža ekoloških nevladinih organizacija i Fondacija za ekološko obrazovanje, ove godine zaslužilo je devetnaest naših plaža U z prigodnu svečanost, 5. juna podignute su prve ovogodišnje Plave zastavice na našim plažama. Kampanja Plava zastavica ove godine slavi jubilej – 25 godina uspješnog ekološkog programa čiji su cilj plaže i marine visokog ekološkog standarda, organizacije i usluga. Simbol prestižnog priznanja biće istaknut na 3 098 plaža i 646 marina u 36 država sjeverne hemisfere. Među njima će, po odluci Međunarodnog žirija, biti 19 naših plaža: Escallera, Blue Beach, S&I Beach Life - Jaz, Club Hotel Rivijera – Njivice, Cuba Libre i Porto Žanjic – Žanjice, Stevuzo – uvala Dobreč, Kalardovo i Plavi Horizonti – Tivat, Almara beach – Oblatno, Sveti Toma i Queen of Montenegro – Bečići, Centar – Sutomore, Tony Grill, Evropa beach, Safari, Tropikana, MCM beach i Copacabana – Velika plaža, Ulcinj. Vrijedno je pomenuti da su i kupališta Lux Beach i Miami na Velikoj plaži u Ulcinju, kao i plaža Paradiso u uvali Utjeha kod Bara, predložene za tzv. Pilot fazu Programa, a marina Porto Montenegro, kandidovana je za Plavu zastavicu za marine. Plava zastavica simbol je visokih standarda zaštite životne sredine, kao i kvalitetnih sanitarnih i bezbjedonosnih uslova na plažama i marinama. Sastavni dio Programa je i ekološko obrazovanje, kao i informisanje javnosti, vlasti i turističkih aktera o zaštiti životne sredine. Program Plava zastavica sprovodi se u Crnoj Gori od 2003. godine, kada je NVO Strogi kriterijumi Dodjeljivanje Plave zastavice zasniva se na ispunjavanju kriterijuma iz četiri oblasti: ekološko obrazovanje i informisanost, kvalitet vode, ekološko upravljanje te sigurnost i usluge. Na plažama se moraju ispoštovati 32 kriterijuma, a u marinama 24. Neki od kriterijuma su: organizovati bar 5 ekoloških edukativnih akcija, postaviti informacije o kvalitetu vode, informisati o obalnim ekosistemima i osjetljivim prirodnim područjima, poštovati plažni red i pravila ponašanja, propisi o korišćenju plaža moraju biti dostupni javnosti, analizirati vodu za kupanje i o tome informisati, industrijski i kanalizacioni ispusti ne smiju uticati na područje plaže, poštovati standard o mikrobiološkim parametrima vode, regulisati pristup pasa i drugih kućnih ljubimaca, obezbijediti mjere sigurnosti, omogućiti snabdijevanje pijaćom vodom, itd. Dakle, dobiti Plavu zastavicu je, zaista, trud za poštovanje! 144 Ekom postala pridruženi član Fondacije za ekološku edukaciju (FEE) i time stekla pravo da bude nacionalni operater za Plavu zastavicu kod nas. Program Plava zastavica odvija se u dvije faze: zainteresovanom kupalištu ili marini se u prvoj godini dodjeljuje sertifikat kandidata, te se, nakon uspješno završene pilot faze, to kupalište ili marina može kandidovati za Plavu zastavicu kod Međunarodnog žirija, što znači da je može i zavrijediti. JP Morsko dobro je od samog početka podržalo ovu kampanju i postalo njen generalni sponzor. U Morskom dobru ističu da inicijativa za kandidaturu za Plavu zastavicu potiče od samih korisnika, a njih je sve više, To je odličan znak, jer i druge plaže na Crnogorskom primorju zavrjeđuju da se na njima zavijore Plave zastavice. Sem finansijske i organizacione podrške od strane Morskog dobra, kampanju Plava zastavica podržavaju i Ministarstvo održivog razvoja i turizma, Nacionalna turistička organizacija, Crveni krst Crne Gore, primorske opštine i, naravno, lokalne nevladine organizacije. Za stranog turistu, a sve više i za domaćeg, činjenica da je plaža nosilac Plave zastavice, potvrđuje da su odabrali pravo mjesto za odmor. Crna Gora je dobila mogućnost da svojim jedinstvenim prirodnim potencijalom, bistrim morem, uređenim plažama, obalama i opremljenim marinama, konkuriše na svjetskom tržištu kao jedna od kvalitetnijih i prepoznatljivih destinacija. Poštuj ljepotu Naše plaže su prilično blizu jedna drugoj i mnoge karakteristike koje važe za jednu, važe i za onu susjednu. Samo, Plava zastavica dokazuje da se o pojedinima, ipak, vodi više računa i više cijeni njihova vrijednost i ljepota. Plaže nam trebaju, ne samo ljeti, jer su one, između ostalog, dio naših ličnih uspomena i iskustava, slike koje sobom nosimo i kada smo daleko od domovine, ali i slike po kojima stranci sude o nama! Zato, tokom ovog dugog, vrelog ljeta, uživajte na našim lijepim i čistim plažama – sa poštovanjem! 145 South stories – our beautiful beaches Festive rising of Blue flags Prestigious international award – Blue flag, by Program that is realized by International network of ecological non-governmental organizations and Foundation for ecological education, this year earned nineteen of our beaches. Text: Bratislav Kokolj Photography: Archive of PE for Coastal Zone Management D uring adequate celebration, on June 5, first Blue flags for this year on our beaches have been raised. The campaign Blue flag celebrates a jubilee – 25 years of successful ecological program whose aims are beaches and marinas of high ecological standard, organization and services. The symbol of this prestigious acknowledgement will be put on 3 098 beaches and 646 marinas in 36 countries of the north hemisphere. As International jury decided, 19 of our beaches will be on that list: Escallera, Blue Beach, S&I Beach Life – Jaz, Club of hotel Rivijera – Njivice, Cuba Libre and Porto Žanjic – Žanjice, Stevuzo – small bay Dobreč, Kalardovo and Blue Horizons – Tivat, Almara beach – Oblatno, Saint Toma and Queen of Montenegro – Bečići, Center – Sutomore, Tony Grill, Europe beach, Safari, Tropikana, MCM beach and Copacabana – Velika plaža, Ulcinj. It is important to mention that beaches Lux 146 Beach and Miami on Big beach in Ulcinj, as well as beach Paradiso in small bay Utjeha near Bar, were suggested for socalled Pilot phase of the Program, and marina Porto Montenegro was nominated for Blue flag in category of marines. Blue flag is symbol of high standards in protection of environment, as well as high quality sanitary and safety conditions on beaches and in marinas. Part of the Program is also ecological education, and Strict criteria Assigning of Blue flag is based on fulfillment of criteria in four areas: ecological knowledge and information, water quality, ecological management, and safety and services. 32 criteria must be followed on beaches and 24 in marinas. Some of the rules are: organizing at least 5 ecological educational actions, making information about water quality visible, keeping informed about coastal ecosystems and sensitive natural areas, respecting order and rules of conduct on beach, all rules about usage of beaches must be publicly visible, analyzing water for swimming and providing information about it, industrial and sewage outlets must not affect beach area, following standards about microbiological parameters of water, regulating access of dogs and other pets, providing security measures, providing supplies of drinking water, etc. Therefore, getting a Blue flag is truly hard work, which should be respected! informing of public, authorities and tourist workers about protection of environment. The Blue flag program has been implemented in Montenegro since 2003, when NGO Ekom became joined member of Foundation for ecological education (FEE) and by that, got right to become national operator for Blue flag in our country. Program Blue flag works in two stages: beach or marina interested in this program, in the first year get a certificate of a candidate, and after successfully completing pilot phase, that beach or marina can candidate for Blue flag in front of International jury, which means that they can earn it. Public Enterprise for Coastal Zone Management from the very beginning supported this campaign and became its general sponsor. In Company Coastal Zone Management, they point out that the initiative for the candidacy for Blue flag ca- me from the users themselves, and their number is getting bigger and bigger. That is a great sign, because other beaches in Montenegrin coast are worth having Blue flags waving on them. Besides financial and organizational support from Coastal Zone Management, campaign Blue flag is supported by Ministry of sustainable development and tourism, National tourist organization, Red cross of Montenegro, coastal towns, and of course, local non-governmental organizations. For foreign tourist, and now more and more for the local one, the fact that a beach has Blue flag, confirms that he/she made a good decision when choosing a place for vacation. Montenegro got a chance to become competitive on world wide market as one of valuable and recognizable destinations, thanks to its unique natural potential, clear sea, arranged beaches, coasts and equipped marinas. Respect beauty Beaches on our coast are pretty close to one another, and many characteristics that are worth for one, are worth for the neighboring beach also. However, Blue flag proves that certain beaches are better taken care of, and that their worth and beauty is more valued. We need beaches, not only in summer, because beaches are, among other things, part of our personal memories and experiences, images that we carry along even when we are far from our homeland, but also images that foreigners judge us by! So, during this long, hot summer, enjoy on our beautiful and clean beaches – with respect! 147 CRNOGORSKA KUŽINA KRAP NA PODGORIČKI NAČIN Pripremila: Nada Bukilić Foto: NTO, Slaven Vilus Njegovo Visočanstvo Krap iliti šaran, pravi je gospodar Skadarskog jezera, drag ulov ribolovcima, nezaobilazan na slavskim i slavljeničkim trpezama, obožavan od strane gurmana i mnogo poštovan od vrsnih domaćica, jer one znaju zašto se kaže da „ljubav na usta ulazi”! Sa sve šljivama… A h, kada kažeš: krap, kao da prozoveš lošeg pjevača na binu! Krap? Međutim, nijedna od riba nema ime koje je u tolikoj diskrepanci sa ukusom njenog cijenjenog mesa! Krap je rođeni brat šaranu, i mada ima vrlo bliske rođačke veze i sa drugim slatkovodnim ribama, ovaj naš jezerski suveren, povelik, dobro uhranjen, „gusto naseljen” u Skadarskom jezeru, ipak nema alternativu. I u vodi i na stolu, krap je neprikosnoven! Još kad je pripremljen na podgorički način, sa suvim šljivama, krap prestaje biti smiješno ime za veliku ribu i postaje veliko ime za pravi gastronomski užitak! Kako se, dakle, priprema Krap na podgorički način? Ako nijeste ribolovac, morate se osloniti na svoje poznavanje trgovačke psihologije i takvi otići na pijacu, u ranije sate, da od vještih prodavaca ribe, mirno i lukavo dobijete neophodne podatke o ribi pred vama. U mnoštvu, morate pronaći krapa čije su oči „staklaste”, čvrste, tijelo cijelo, da nije izranjavano i isječeno, te da nije mlitavo. Takav krap je, onda, sigurno izlovljen mrežom i – nedavno! Napomena: krap se ne kupuje kao meso ili neka druga riba – on mora biti iznad veličine koja zadovoljava vaš apetit, ne samo zato što je ukusan toliko da ne može biti prevelik, već i zato što krap ima „nezgodan” skelet i raspored „igala”, tj. koščica, pa kada je omanji, ne možete mu ništa od njih. Najbolji krap je krap od pet kila. Čista petica! Zatim, istog prodavca ribe zamolite da vam krapa očisti. Jer, donijeti tu silu u rođenu kuhinju, nije preporučljivo. Tek tada možete krapa odnijeti kući. E, kad stignete, treba vam neko ko zna što je kužina i gušt. Ako nekog takvog još nemate, nema vam druge nego zasucite rukave! Dobro opranog i pod tekućom vodom ispranog krapa, najprije isijecite „na zvona” – to su parčad debljine do 3-4 cm, i blago osolite. (Glavu krapa, kao i sitniju parčad pri repu, možete iskoristiti za pripremu riblje čorbe.) U dubljoj posudi, na dosta maslinovog ulja, mada može i kombinacija maslinovog i suncokretovog ulja, izdinstajte najmanje 148 kilogram usitnjenog crnog luka. Ako dodate i dvije, tri glavice onog crvenog, crmničkog luka, biće bolje. Uglavnom, s lukom ne možete pretjerati! Pola kilograma suvih šljiva bez koštica properite i potopite u mlaku vodu da odstoje i malo nabubre. Pripremite 200 do 300 gr pirinča (to zavisi od ukusa, apetita, ali i broja osoba koje će ručati sa vama), biber, vino i lovor. U dubok, poveći pleh prespite uprženi luk, rasporedite po cijelom dnu. Dodajte pirinač i dio šljiva, pa izmiješajte. „Zvona” uvaljajte u brašno i poređajte u pleh tako da im „nađete mjesta” u pirinču. Još šljiva rasporedite i između ribe i uz nju. Dodajte još ulja, jer je riba tako ukusnija, a i pirinač. Posolite, pobiberite i zalijte većom čašom vode. Stavite u zagrijanu rernu na 200 do 220°C. Već nakon deset, petnaest minuta, moći ćete procijeniti kojom brzinom pirinač upija tečnost, pa ćete znati koliko vina da dodate u jelo. Izvadite pleh, dodajte crno vino, preostale šljive i lovorov list i brzo vratite u rernu. Vina će vam trebati bar čaša, dvije, ali možete dodati i nešto vode, posebno ako ste pretjerali sa pirinčem. Krap na podgorički mora se peći oko uru, ali na temperaturi ne većoj od 200°C, da bi se sve arome i ukusi međusobno ispovezivali i stvorili jedinstven ukus podgoričkog specijaliteta. Nemojte prevrtati, miješati, razdvajati niti na bilo koji drugi način uznemiravati „zvona” – nek odzvone svoje u toploj rerni, slani i od šljiva slatkasti riblji komadi. Jedine dozvoljene intervencije su dodavanje vode, vina ili ulja. Kada je jelo gotovo, nek odstoji u rerni do služenja. Jer, najgore što mu se može desiti je da se ohladi prije nego stignu gosti. Međutim, mnogi sladokusci tvrde da je krap na podgorički, jednako ukusan i kad se sasvim rashladi. Ipak, pirinač nema tu osobinu, pa neka bude na toplom. Servirajte jelo bez ili nakon čorbe, uz salatu po izboru i obavezno – vino! Mada se i dalje spori oko toga je li uz slatkovodnu ribu bolje piti crna ili bijela vina, naš najiskreniji savjet je – sasvim je svejedno! Krap je pravo, pravcato podgoričko jelo sa carskom velikodušnošću koja dozvoljava sve što je srcu, tj. nepcu milo. Takođe, carski, ne da se jesti u osami! Zato, uz „zvona” nek zvone čaše i dobro raspoloženje, a sve druge savjete daće vam, zadovoljni, oni koje ste carski nahranili. Prijatno! 149 Montenegrin cuisine Carp prepared the way they make it in Podgorica By: Nada Bukilić Photo: NTO, Slaven Vilus His Majesty Carp, is the real master of Skadar lake, dear catch to fishermen, inevitable on feasts of the patron saints and on other celebrations, adored by gourmets and greatly respected by experienced housewives, because they know the meaning of saying:“ love comes through stomach”! Altogether with plums… O h, when you say - carp, as if you call on some bad singer on stage! Carp? However, none of the fish has a name so opposite to taste of its precious flesh! Krap (a kind of carp fish found in Skadar lake) is carp’s brother, and although he is closely related to some other fresh-water fish, this lake sovereign, big, well fed, “densely populated” in Skadar lake does not have an alternative. In water, as on a table, carp is sacred! And when it is prepared the way they make it in Podgorica, with dry plums, carp becomes a silly name for such a great fish, and becomes great name for true gourmet delight! So, how do you prepare carp on Pogorica way? If you don’t happen to be a fisherman, you will have to rely on your knowledge of merchant’s psychology, and armed with that knowledge go to the market, earlier in the morning, to calmly and craftily, obtain from skillful vendors necessary information about fish in front of you. From pile of fish, you must distinguish the carp whose eyes are “glassy”, firm, body whole, not wounded or cut, and not at least slack. Such carp has definitely been caught by fishing net, and not so long ago! 150 Note: you do not buy carp the way you buy meat or some other kind of fish – it has to be larger than size that would satisfy your appetite, not just because it is tasty so much that it can never be too big, but because carp has “tricky” skeleton and scheme of “needles”, e.g. bones, so when you buy smaller one, those needles prevent you to prepare the fish properly. The best carp is one of around 5 kilos. Straight A! Then, you will have to ask the same vendor to clean the fish for you. Because, it is not re- commendable to bring all of that to your own house. Only then, you can bring your carp home. Now, when you arrive, you will need someone who knows what is cuisine and pleasure. If you don’t have such person near you, there is noting left for you, but to roll up your sleeves! Wash the carp well under flowing water, and cut in shape of “bells” – pieces approxi- mately 3-4cm thick, and add a grain of salt. (You can use carp’s head, as well as smaller pieces around the tail, to prepare fish soup). In deeper bowl, with lot of olive oil, although you can use mix of olive and sunflower oil, stew at least one kilo of well-chopped onion. It will be even better to add two or three heads of red onion from Crmnica. Moreover, you can never add too much onion! Wash and sink in luke-warm water half kilos of dry plums, and let them stay there until they bloat a bit. Prepare 200 to 300g of rice (it depends on your taste, appetite, and of course, on number of persons you will have on lunch), add pepper, wine and laurel. Put stewed onions into deep, bigger baking pan, and cover the entire bottom of the pan. Add rice and part of the plums, and then mix it all. Roll “bell”-shaped pieces of carp into flour, and put in baking pan by making some space for the fish among rice. Put more plums among pieces of fish. Add more oil, because it will make fish, and even rice, tastier. Add salt, pepper, and pour larger glass of water. Put in oven heated up to 200 or 220 degrees. After ten to fifteen minutes, you will be able to tell how fast the rice absorbs the fluid, so you will know how much wine to pour into this dish. Take the pan out of oven, add red wine, the rest of plums and leaves of laurel, and quickly return into oven. You will need at least one, or two glasses of wine, but you can add a bit of water, especially if you put too much rice. Carp prepared in the way they make it in Podgorica, must be baked approximately an hour, but on temperatures greater than 200 degrees, so that all the flavors and tastes could melt together, and create unique taste of this specialty from Podgorica. Do not roll over, mix, separate, or in any other way disturb “the bells” – let them chime their song in hot oven, salted, and sweet from the plum juice. The only permitted interventions are adding more water, wine or oil. When the dish is prepared, let it stay in the oven until serving. Because, the worst thing that can happen to the fish, is to get cold before the guests arrive. However, many gourmets claim that carp prepared this way is as tasty when cold as when served warm. The rice, however, does not have this feature of staying tasteful when cold so, just in case, keep the dish warm. Serve the dish without or after fish soup, along with lettuce and mandatory – wine! Although, there is still dispute whether it is better to drink red or white wine with freshwater fish, the most sincere advice we can give you is – that it is all the same! Carp is true dish from Podgorica, with imperial generosity that allows all what heart, or the palate desires. Also, being imperial, it is not recommendable to eat it alone! So, let the glasses and good mood “ring” with “bells”, and you will get any other pieces of advice, from the satisfied people you fed so magnificently. Bon appetite! 151 sve prošlo i u sve buduće, strpljivo me poziva na ručak, još strpljivije mi na četrdeset stepeni pegla, tiha uđe u moju sobu i okači bijelu košulju na vidno mjesto, još tiša odlazi sama u prodavicu, na pijacu, i bez riječi čeka goste na stanici. Otuda ih dovodi sve brišući znoj sa čela, ponekad ju čujem kako teško diše dok se penje uz stepenice, ali nikad ničim ne odaje da joj je teško ili da joj je dodijala moja lijenost, moja odsutnost, moj jad. Vrijedna i ćutljiva, moja sveznalica radi kao da sam ja starac, a ona podmlađena, osnažena i nesalomiva. PRIČAM TI PRIČU Drugačije je, nema što, sve je drugačije… HODAM JA PO PIJESKU, KAD TAMO… Piše: Nada Bukilić Z ažareno nebo mi pritislo vrat, ramena bolna od vrelog tereta i jedva vučem nogu pred nogu. Ovog puta je drugačije. Volim ja ljeto i volim tu nebesku zvijezdu, ne smeta što mi ispeče lice da bivam nalik roblju sa plantaža; ne smeta i nikad mi nije smetalo što istopi asfalt i što mi se patike vazda lijepe za njega – thja, kako bi kad sam mlad! Ipak, sada je nešto drugačije. A samo je godina prošla, pa ni cijela, od kad sam isto ovako gazio kejom, zapaljen ljetom, a oran i svjež. Koliko juče, nosio sam suncobrane ublijeđelim gospođicama iz kontinentalnih kraje152 va, trčao po sladoled komšijskoj dječurliji i igrao picigin sa lokalnim mangupima, vazda začuđen što ljudi psuju vrućinu… koliko juče, sreo sam nju i… Eto, ovo ljeto je zbog nje drugačije. Žari mi po vratu i znoj se sliva naprijed, niz grudi. Majica mi je već mokra. Svlačim se - što ću, prevruće je. Koračam po vrelom asfaltu, jedva iz njega vadeći noge. Da me sad majka zamoli da trknem do prodavnice ili da joj sačekam gošće na autobuskoj stanici, mislim da bih se onesvijestio. A ona, kao da sve zna. Ćuti. Kao da ima uvid i u Odvukoh se do kafića u komšiluku. Tamo ću na jednom mjestu naći i cigarete i pivo i kafu. Naravno, i novine. Što da mlatim do kraja ulice. Sijedam za prvi prazni sto. A onda vidim da su i ostali stolovi jednako prazni. Samo tamo unutra, za šankom, lokalni lero ispija svoje piće i priča naglas, sam sa sobom, sa svima koje je ikad sreo i sa bogom. On, naravno, zamišlja da je kafić pun i da ga sluša stotina ušiju, napinje se da izgovori cjelovito i one komplikovanije riječi, da, pijan, dokaže svoju elokventnost, tim prije što ga, po njegovoj uobrazilji, slušaju i Pero i Janko i predsjednik opštine, kome redovno psuje oca lopovskog, i Sava i Nikola koji mu je „spava’ sa ženom dok je bio u ribanje”… I sve ih redom proziva, vazda po istom rasporedu i bez greške, a boga zove za svjedoka, zatim se zalijeće da im konačno kaže što misli o njima, i ni malo mu ne smeta što je predsjednik opštine sada sasvim drugi čovjek, pa ni to što je Nikola pokojni. On, jednostavno, ne prihvata te „sitne činjenice” kao značajnu stvar: „To što ti više nijesi pres’ednik, baš me briga! Jednako si govedo ka’ kad si bio… a ti, Nikola, džabe si umro, čuj me dobro! Nemoj da se kriješ iza ne... nerel… nerelevantnih činjenica! Ne! I otud će te, đe god da si, išćerat’ jer si gad, ti ćeš i tamo tuđe žene obrtat’… e, ali tamo će ti reć’: Mrš! Mrš, fukaro!... e, jes… ali, ali, ja ću, bog mi je svjedok, ja… ja ću jed- nom sve, sve da ispričam, da svima kažem ko ste vi, bando jedna, banditska… Jednom ću ja progovoriti! ‘Oću! Vidjećete!... Mali, daj još jedno!” Mali od kafića pritrčava, donosi još jedno piće, ni malo umoran što mu lično, na svaku „prozivku” odgovara, čas kao Pero ili Janko, čas kao predsjednik opštine ili siroti Nikola. Naprotiv, Malome je to jedina zabava u rano popodne, dok još nema gostiju i dok drijemaju i turisti i muve i komarci, svi zabavljeni hvatanjem zraka iz vrelih visina neba. Zato Mali, kad god pijani siromah priprijeti, odgovara: „E, nećeš, vala, nikad!” I tako se njih dvojica nadgornjavaju i jedan drugoga zabavljaju dok se sunce duboko udavi i dok sjenka pokrije čitav brijeg nad gradom, a duž pristana zasvijetle ulične lampe. Kad počnu gosti pristizati, pijanac se ućuti, a Mali se rastrči od stola do stola, sabirajući troškove u glavi, tako brzo i tako sigurno kao da mu je, s rođenjem, u glavu ubačen digitron sa sve četiri računske operacije, pa sada samo to zna raditi. Znam, tako će proći i ovo popodne. “Mali,” viknuh, “daj mi novine!” “Koje ćeš”, pita iz tamnih usta kafane. “Svejedno, velim, samo nek su štampane”. I Mali dotrča, donese novina i novina. Gledam: osunčane ljepotice na naslovnicama, rumena dječica slikana sa sladoledima, pa pljačka banke u susjedstvu, političari smjenjuju jedan drugoga, turistička sezona u zenitu, temperature u porastu, avioni lete na daleke destinacije, sin našao oca poslije dvadeset godina… baš zanimljive novine. Prelistavam i, kao, čitam. Tražim nešto između olovnih slova, niz umrljane listove dnevne štampe, uz plavi rub stranice čitam nerazumljive Posljednje vijesti… Odjednom mi se oglasi učiniše mnogo bitni. Čitam studiozno jedan po jedan, upoređujem kvadrature kuća sa navedenim cijenama, razmišljam kako mora izgledati ta kuća koju vlasnik žurno prodaje, čini mi se bud’ zašto, ili, pak – nevjerovatno skupo, i pitam se što je sa ljudima… A 153 onda, pri dnu stranice, među tzv. ličnim oglasima, jedan ovakav: „Čekam te na starom mjestu svakog dana u naše vrijeme – ako još važi smjena predsjednika opštine. Dođi bos, čuvam tvoje papuče! Ja” Hladni znoj me obli cijelog. Srce zaigra kao lopta u obruču. U očima i pred očima, u meni i vani, neka čudna, vrela tama – blista crni sjaj, kao da sunce gori. „Ako važi...”, pita ludača moja? Ne vidim, ne čujem, ne mislim i ne znam ništa drugo do to da – važi! Itekako važi svaka smjena na ovom svijetu! Ostah tako bar po ure. Ni rukom ne makoh, ni čašu ne takoh. Konačno, izvadih nešto novca, bacih na sto i krenuh. Za mnom još zaječa: „Vidjećete vi, reći ću vam ja, jednom, sve…” a i zamršeni glas Malog me, pri odlasku dohvati jednim izračunatim: „Hvala!”, te se, okrilaćen, lako spustih do ulice, a onda još lakše, preskačući oleandre i komšijsko cvijeće, dospjeh u naše dvorište. Kao da se sunce neznatno spustilo ka zapadnim krovovima i kao da je nebo nešto sivlje nego prije, naše dvorište mi se učinje mirnije, spokojnije. Vidjeh bubamaru na majčinoj kameliji, čuh kako iz kaveza u prozoru, pjevuši moj kanarinac Kana, primijetih čak i komšinice koje su me sa posebnim zanimanjem gledale, i umalo se sudarih sa tacnom na kojoj je majka iznosila kafu i kolačiće. Uzeh joj posluženje iz ruku, sagoh se i poljubih ju u prosijedu kosu, a onda odoh ka znatiželjnim ženama i svakoj, uz kompliment, dodadoh vruću šoljicu. Majka se na brzinu prekrstila; znam, jer poznajem šum njenih tankih ruku i kad se češlja i kad se uljepšava karminom i kad maramicom briše orošeno čelo, pa i kad se krsti. Nasmijah se i utrčah uz stepenice. Odozdo, majka viknu: „Bijela ti je opeglana!” Vrijedna moja sveznalica – ona zna i što mi se desilo i zašto sam najednom veseo i što ću da 154 odjenem i kuda ću sada, sve… I tako, hodam ja, koračam i brz i bos po vrelom pijesku – ni tereta na ramenima, ni vreline za vratom. Sve mi je da ne može biti bolje! Mislim da sam stigao u pravo vrijeme, iako nijesam siguran da smo nas dvoje prošlog ljeta uopšte imali neko vrijeme koje je bilo pogrešno ili tuđe. Nije li svejedno kad ću ja doći, sad kad je ona sigurno tu? Koračam i onda, na tom našem mjestu - iako ne znam po čemu je baš ono naše: obišli smo, prošli, ljubili se i grlili na gotovo svakom pedlju ove dugačke plaže - ugledah moje stare papuče. Pored, njena nova torba, narandžasta. Znam da je baš njena jer samo ona voli te blesave, drečave boje. Legoh, glavom uz torbu. Zatvorih oči. Vazduh je mirisao na nju. I pijesak je imao isti miris. I nova torba je mirisala kao ona i cijeli moj život, od onih prvih, smotanih poljubaca, pa sve do ovog današnjeg ljubavnog pisma u oglasima, sve je isto mirisalo. Na pravu, jedinstvenu ljubav. Otuda, sa vode, čuo sam kako me ona doziva. Čuo sam kako se nad vrelim pijeskom rasipa moje ime na hiljade i hiljade malih, smiješnih i srećnih zvukova. Čuo sam i more – pljuska istim ritmom i trne nazad, nemoćno. Okrenuh se u stranu, torbu stavih pod glavu i nasmijan pod suncem zaspah. RESTAURANT PROVATivat Let me tell you a story I was strolling on the sand, when all of a sudden… By: Nada Bukilić S corching sky pressed my neck, and with shoulders aching from the painful burden, I barely drag along the way. This time it is different. Txt: Oh, I love summer, and the scorching star, I even don’t mind it burns my face and makes me look like a plantation slave; I don’t mind, and I never have, the way it makes the asphalt melt and make my sneakers always glued to it – oh, well, how could I mind when I’m young! However, this time things are different. Only a year passed by, and not even a whole year, since I last paced along the quay, burned by summer, yet enthusiastic and fresh. It seems like yesterday when I carried parasols for pale misses from continental parts of the country, ran to get ice cream for kids from the neighborhood and played with in water with local rascals, constantly amazed why people curse the heat…it was yesterday when I met her and… This 156 summer is different because of her. My neck is burning, and the sweat drips forward, down the chest. My shirt is already soaked. I take it off – what else could I do, it is way too hot. I pace the hot asphalt, barely pulling my feet out of it. If my mother asks me now to go to the store, or wait for her guests on bus station, I think I will pass out. And mother, as if she knows everything. She keeps quiet. As if she can see all that was and all that will be, she patiently calls me to come for lunch, even more patiently irons for me on 40 degrees, quietly enters my room and hangs the shirt where I can see it, even more quietly goes to the store, on grocery market, and without saying a word, waits for the guests on the station. She brings them home, wiping the sweat off her forehead, I sometimes hear her heavy breathing while mounting the stairs, but she never shows that anything is hard for her, or that she is weary from my laziness, my absence, my misery. Diligent and quiet, my all-knowing mother works as if I am the old man, and she - rejuvenated, empowered and unbreakable. It is different definitely, everything is different… I dragged myself to a café in neighborhood. I can find cigarettes, beer and coffee, all in one place. And newspaper, of course. Why bother going further to the end of the street. I take the first empty table. Then I notice that all the other tables are empty as well. Only inside, behind the bar, local drunk sips his drink and talks out loud to himself, to anyone he has ever met, and to god. He is, of course, imagining that the cafe is full, and that hundred of people listen to his words; he struggles to pronounce correctly even the complicated ones, to, prove his eloquence, although he is drunk, even more because in his imagination Pero, and Janko, the local mayor, whose father he curses, are listening to him, and also Sava and Nikola, who slept with his wife once he went fishing… And he calls on everyone of them, always in the same order making no mistake, and calls upon a God for witness, then charges to finally tell them everything he thinks about them, and he doesn’t care a bit that today the mayor is completely different man, and that Nikola is dead. He, simply, doesn’t see those “minor facts” as important:“ I don’t care you’re not the mayor any more! You are as bad now as when you were a mayor...and you, Nikola, you died in vain, hear me out! Don’t hide behind ir… irrel… irrelevant facts! No! They will kick you out from wherever you are, because you are bastard, and you will sleep with other peoples’ wives…but they will tell you:“ Go away! Go away, you bastard!... oh, yes… but, I will, God is my witness, I…I will tell everything once, I’ll tell everyone who you are, a gang, bastards… I will talk some day! Oh, I will! You’ll see!... Kid, give me another one!” Kid comes hastily, bringing another drink, not at least tired of answering to every single provocation, pretending to be Pero, or Janko, or even the mayor or the poor, deceased Nikola. Quite the contratry. It is the only amusement for Kid in early afternoon, while the guests are still away, and tourists, flies and mosquitoes drowse, busy by catching some air from the hot heights of the sky. So Kid, whenever the poor, drunk guy makes a threat, answers:“ No, you won’t! Never, let me tell you!” And they dispute, and amuse each other, until the sun drowns in the depth and shadow covers entire hill upon the town, and street lamps start casting light upon the port. When guests start arriving, the drunk guy stops talking, and Kid starts working among tables, calculating bills in his head, so quickly, and so accurately, as if the calculator with all four mathematical operations was planted inside his head on birth, so it is the only thing he can do. I know that this afternoon will pass that same way. “Kid”, I yelled, “Bring me the newspaper!” “Which one”, his voice reaches me from the dark mouth of the cafe. “Whatever”, I reply, “As long as they are printed.” Therefore, Kid comes, bringing piles of newspapers. And I watch: sun-tanned gorgeous girls on covers, healthy kids photographed with ice creams, then bank robbery in the neighborhood, politicians dismiss one another, tourist season at it’s pike, temperatures rising, planes flying to far-away destinations, son found his father after twenty years… some interesting papers. I leaf through them, and pretend to read. I search for something amongst leaden letters, down the stained sheets of daily press, along the blue edge I read indistinct Latest news…Suddenly, the ads seemed extremely important. I read carefully one by one, comparing the squaring of the houses with their prices, thinking what the house must be like that the owner 157 so readily sells, in my opinion, in so low price, or however – unbelievably pricey, and I wonder, what is the matter with those people… And then, on the bottom of the page, among so called “personal ads”, there is one with the following content:“ I am waiting for you in the old place every day in our time – if the mayor’s shift is still the same. Come barefoot, I still keep your beach shoes! Me” combing her hair, putting a lipstick on, wiping sweaty forehead, or even making a sign of the cross. I laughed and ran upstairs. From downstairs, mother yelled:“ The white one is ironed!” My diligent, omni-knowing mother – she knew what had happened to me, why I became suddenly so cheerful, what will I wear, and what will I do, everything… Cold sweat poured down my back. My heart leaped. In my eyes, and in front of my eyes, inside and outside of me, some strange, hot darkness – black shine radiating, as if the sun burns. “If it’s still the same…” asks my crazy girl? I cannot see, I cannot hear and do not know anything but the fact that it is still the same! It is so same, every shift in this world! I remained in such condition for at least half an hour. I did not even move my hand, nor touched the glass. Therefore, I walk, barefoot, quickly on scorching sand – no weight on my shoulders, no heat behind my neck. It is as good as it gets! I think I arrived at the right time, although I am not so sure we had any time that was wrong or belonged to someone else that last summer. Is it not all the same when I would arrive, now that she is certainly there? I walk, and then, on that very our place – although I cannot tell why exactly is this ours: we walked along, kissed and hugged on almost every inch of this long beach – I saw my old beach shoes. Beside them, her new bag, orange. I know it is hers because only she likes those silly, garish colours. I lie down, head next to the bag. I closed my eyes. The air smelled like her. The sand had the same scent. Her new bag smelled like her and my whole life from the first, clumsy kisses, to this love letter in today’s newspaper - everything smelled the same. It had the smell of unique, true love. Finally, I took out some money, threw it on table and moved on. I heard an echo:“ You will all see someday, I will tell everything…” and tangled voice of Kid saying one calculated:“ Thank you!”; so easily, as if I had wings, I went down to the street, and then, even lighter, jumping over oleanders and neighbors’ flowers, I reached our backyard. It seemed that sun slightly sunk towards western roofs, and that sky is somewhat greyer than before, and our backyard seemed to me calmer and more serene. I saw a ladybug on my mother’s camellia, I heard my canary bird Kana singing from his crate in window, I even noticed neighbors who looked at me with special interest, and I almost crashed into my mother’s tray on which she carried coffee and cookies. I took the tray out of her hands, bent down and kissed her grizzled hair, and then went towards curious women and gave each her cup of hot coffee along with the compliment. Mother made the sign of the cross; I know, because I can tell by the sound of her thin arms whether she is 158 ADVERTISING AGENCY & PRINTING DEVELOPMENT OFFSET & DIGITAL PRINT SUPPORTED BY Over there, from water, I heard her calling me. I heard my name dispersed into thousands and thousands small, funny and happy sounds, over the scorching sand. I heard the sea also – it splashed in the same rhythm, and returned back, helplessly. I turned on the other side, put the bag under my head and, smiling under the sun, fell asleep. Omladinskih Br igada 16 81 000 Podgor ica e-mail: dpc@t-com.me Ph: +382 20 210 925 Montenegro Rembo Moja je mudrost prezrena kao i haos. Zato sam udvostručio smrt pokazujući svijetu svoje odvratnosti i moja izdajstva. CRNOGORSKA SAVREMENA POEZIJA, Milorad Popović Nikad neću vidjeti Buenos Aires Moj đed Boško Petrov bio je naočit emigrant: bjeloputi dvometraš s tankim crnim brkom nije morao kao njegova tri brata da crnči u pampasima i rudnicima Gran Čaka. Boško je bio gospodin sa srebrnim satom u džepu prsluka: prodavao je karte putnicima na trajektu “Palermo” koji ih je prevozio preko River Plate. Moja baba Zlatana iz istog je plemena. Boško je bio nostalgičan. Zlatana je voljela Buenos Aires: uživala je u vrevi širokih bulevara u vrevi velegradskih izloga u vrevi slovenskih i romanskih narječja pa i samo sjećanje na bezvodno podlovćensko tlo i ona uvijek stroga prijeka lica nekako je bilo sumračno. Njihov sin je rođen u sirotinjskoj bolnici “Sveti Ignjacio Lojola”. Boško je imao plan: kupio je brodsku kartu za Napulj kriomice uzeo šestomjesečnog sina i na brodu ga na čuvanje predao sestri Antoniji benediktinki iz Siverića 160 koja se vraćala u Dalmaciju. Zlatana se preudala i rodila četiri sina četiri Latino-Crnogorca kao četiri zlatne jabuke. Pod starost je kupila kuću u Obligadu. Predveče je sjedjela na trijemu svoje skromne kuće u sjenci krošnje jakarande leđa zgrbljenih od pamćenja koje je čas izdavalo čas narastalo ko ogromna grba. Mlađa snaha Marija Ester uvijek bi u isto vrijeme na mušemu punu mrtvih ljetnjih mušica postavila crnu kafu i dvije kocke cukra. Gotovo svakodnevno nekako istovremeno po izlasku mlade potrenje na trijem trotoarom je prolazio u pratnji mlađe vitkonoge žene mali čovjek ukočenog hoda s šeširom i bijelim štapom. Babin ispisnik Horhe Luis Borhes. Da je đed ostao u Argentini moja bi sudbina bila svakako poetskija. Postao bih komunistički sindikalista tukao se s peronistima i lokalnim crnoberzijancima u ulici Boelo. Imao bih petoro crnopute djece. U mojem malotiražnom časopisu sarađivao bi Gižermo Martinez. U kafani “Ćipur” na Aveniji de Majo subotom bih se sastajao s potomcima crnogorskih emigranata: kartali bismo mauz u sitan novac i pili tekilu. Poslije druge ispražnjene boce čitao bih im prijevode pjesama o nostalgiji, domovini i seksu Hrvata Borisa Marune. Putovao bih u Albaniju s Ernestom Sabatom dobitnikom književne nagrade “Velija”. Posjetio bih Rozafu tvrđavu rascvale sjete dlanom dodirnuo mrki kamen i pogladio obnaženi krečmlijeko mlade Gojkovice. Primaknuo bih se na zov golog brda uz golobrdinu Bardanjolta graničnoj crti susjedne zemlje na zapadu: mutni izlivi taloženih i posustalih prenošenih sjećanja mamili bi me prema Jezerskom vrhu koji se nekako zaoblio kao usnuli medvjedali ne bih posjetio domovinu mojih predaka. Kao što i ja nikad neću vidjeti Buenos Aires. Moja je pubuna osobita jer pripadam najnižoj rasi od pamtivijeka kojoj je grabež svrha svakog ustanka. Što je moje ništavilo pred obamrlošću koja čeka vas što je moja velika kosa svjetlosti pred vama koji ste robovi i vojnici navika. Majstor u fantazmagorijama postao je trgovac oružjem jer duša je teška a ne prah. Slike: Milo - Mićo Vuković 161 Rimbaud MODERN MONTENEGRIN POETRY, Milorad Popović I Will Never See Buenos Aires My rebellion is of a special kind because I belong to the smallest breed ever the one that sees looting as the purpose of any uprising. Translated by: Zoran Paunović Paintings: Milo - Mićo Vuković My grandfather Boško Petrov was a handsome émigré: pale-faced and two metres tall with slim black moustache he did not nave to like his three brothers to drudge in the pampases and mines of Gran Chaco. Boško was a gentleman with a silver watch in his waistcoat pocket: he was selling tickets on ’Palermo’ ferry to the passengers who went across the River Plate. My grandmother Zlatana was from the same tribe. Boško was nostalgic. Zlatana loved Buenos Aires: she enjoyed the turmoil of broad boulevards turmoil of the city shopwindows turmoil of Slavonic and Roman dialects even the mere memory of waterless soil under Lovćen and of those stern, curt faces was somehow gloomy. Their son was born in a hospital for the poor named ’St. Ignazio Loyola’. Boško had a plan: he bought a boat ticket to Naples furtively took his six-month old son and on the ship gave him to Sister Antonia a Benedictine nun from Siverić going back to Dalmatia. Then Zlatana remarried and gave birth to four sons four Latin-Montenegrins 162 like four golden apples. When she grew old she bought a house in Obligado. In the evenings she would sit on the porch of her modest house in the shadow of a jacaranda tree her back hunched from memory that could fail at one moment but grow like a big hunch in the very next. Maria Ester, her young daughter-inlaw always at the same time on the oilcloth full of dead summer flies used to put a cup of black coffee and two sugarcubes. Almost every day and somehow always at the same time after the young woman’s appearance on the porch a small man with stiff step with a hat and a white stick followed by a young slim-legged woman would pass down the pavement. It was my grandmather’s coeval Jorge Luis Borges. Had grandfather stayed in Argentina my fate would surely have been more poetical. I would have become a communist trade union activist in a fight with Peronists and local black-marketeers in Boelo Street. I would have had five dark-tanned children. Guillermo Martinez would have been a contributor My wisdom is despised just like chaos. That is why I doubled my death showing my hideousness to the world and my betrayals too. In my magazine with small circulation. On Saturdays in ’Ćipur’ café on Avenia de Mayo I would have had meetings with the descendants of Montenegrin emigrés: playing cards for small stakes drinking tequilla. And after second bottle I would have read to them translations of poems about nostalgia, homeland and sex by Croatian poet Boris Maruna. I would have travelled to Albania With Ernesto Sabato the laureate of ’Velija’ literary award. I would have visited Rosafa the fortress of blooming melancholy. I would have touched the dark stone with my palm caressing naked lime – young Gojkovica’s milk. I would have come closer at the call of the bare hill beside arid Bardanyolto the borderline of the adjacent country in the west: murky oputpour of layered and exhausted, transferred memories would have enticed me towards Lake point somehow rounded like a sleeping bear – but I would not have visited the homeland of my ancestors. What is my nothingness compared to numbness that waits for you what is my huge slope of light to you who are slaves and soldiers of habits. A master of phantasmagoria became a weapons-merchant because the soul is heavy it is not dust. Just like I will never See Buenos Aires. 163 ANKONA PALERMO KATANIJA KONTAKTI CONTACTS www.montenegroairlines.com Direkcija Head office Beogradska 10, 81000 Podgorica Montenegro (Serbia & Montenegro) ++ 382 20 405 500 ++ 382 20 405 501 ++ 382 20 405 548 fax e-mail: head.office@mgx.me Informacije i rezervacije Booking ++ 382 20 9804 ++ 382 20 405 543 fax e-mail: booking@mgx.me Komercijalni sektor Commerce department ++ 382 20 405 533 ++ 382 20 405 535 fax e-mail: commerce@mgx.me Sektor za marketing i korporativne komunikacije Marketing & Corporative Communications Department ++ 382 20 405 538 ++ 382 20 405 537 fax e-mail: marketing@mgx.me POSLOVNICE Offices Podgorica Slobode 23, 81 000 Podgorica ++ 382 20 664 411 ++ 382 20 664 433 ++ 382 20 665 291 fax e-mail: office.podgorica@mgx.me Beograd / Belgrade Knez Mihailova 23, 11 000 Beograd ++ 381 11 2621 122 ++ 381 11 3036 535 ++ 381 11 3036 536 ++ 381 11 2181 861 fax e-mail: office.belgrade@mgx.me Budva Slovenska obala bb, 86 000 Budva ++ 382 33 451 735 ++ 382 33 456 244 ++ 382 33 454 900 fax e-mail: office.budva@mgx.me 168 Kotor Stari grad 320, Zgrada turističkog fakulteta ++ 382 32 304 860 ++ 382 32 304 861 ++ 382 32 304 864 ++ 382 32 304 865 fax e-mail: office.kotor@mgx.me Beč / Vienna Kaiserstr. 86, 1070 Vienna ++ 43 664 3 111 405 ++ 43 179 639 35 e-mail: office.vienna@mgx.me Cirih / Zurich Kopenhagen - Quality Air Tours Adresa: Vester Voldgade 96, 4 sprat 1552 Copenhagen V, Denmark Telefon: + 45 33 11 33 16 Fax: + 45 33 11 54 55 e-mail: office.copenhagen@mgx.me DIMENZIJE/DIMENSIONS Razmah krila / Wing span Ukupna dužina / Total lenght Ukupna visina / Total height Prečnik trupa / Fuselage diameter Površina krila / Wing area Šalteri na aerodromima Airport offices PERFORMANSE / PERFORMANCE Max brzina leta / Max operating speed Max brzina leta / Max operating speed Max visina leta / Max operating altitude Podgorica Frankfurt ++ 382 32 670 500 ++ 382 32 670 501 fax ++ 382 67 670 500 (GSM) Rim / Rome Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci, Terminal 2, 00187 Roma ++ 39 06 6595 8661 e-mail: office.rome@mgx.me Pariz / Paris 140, avenue Champs Elyseés, 75008 Paris ++ 33 1 70 36 19 07 ++ 33 1 70 36 19 08 fax e-mail: office.paris@mgx.me London Grosvenor Gardens House, suite 112/3th floor 35-37 Grosvenor Gardens London SW1W 0BS, United Kingdom ++ 44 (0) 207 8644 031 ++ 44 (0) 207 8644 032 ++ 44 (0) 207 8644 033 fax e-mail: office.london@mgx.me www.montenegroairlines.com Kopenhagen / Copenhagen Postfach 2419, 8058 Flughafen, Terminal 2 ++ 41 43 816 7876 ++ 41 43 816 7877 ++ 41 43 816 7878 ++ 41 43 816 7884 fax e-mail: office.zurich@mgx.me Terminal 2, halle d, 60547 Frankfurt am Main ++ 49 69 28 23 74 ++ 49 69 28 11 76 fax e-mail: office.frankfurt@mgx.me FLOTAFLEET ++ 382 20 445 105 ++ 382 20 445 160 fax ++ 382 20 67 624 524 (GSM) TEŽINE / WEIGHTS Max težina bez goriva / Max zero fuel weight Max težina na polijetanju / Max take-off weight Max težina na slijetanju / Max landing weight 28.08 m 35.53 m 8.50 m 3.30 m 93.5 m2 92 ft 1.4in 116 ft 6.8 in 27 ft 10.5 in 10 ft 9.92 in 1006.5 sq ft 320 kts CAS 0,77 M 10.668 m 35000 ft 35835 kg 43090 kg 38780 kg 79000 lb 95000 lb 85500 lb 39 ft 8 in (12.08 m) Tivat Beograd ++ 381 11 228 6241 ++ 381 11 209 400 (lokal 7302) Ljubljana Letališče Brnik, 4210 Brnik Passenger Service ++ 386 4 2594 252 ++ 386 4 2594 245 Moskva / Moscow Montenegro Airlines Aerodrom Domodedovo, kancelarija 3.57 Tel: + 74 95 28 715 25 Fax: + 74 95 28 715 26 e-mail: office.moscow@mgx.me Spoljne dimenzije / External Dimensions Razmah krila / Wingspan Ukupna dužina / Length Overall Ukupna visina / Height Overall Razmah horizontalnog stabilizatora / Horizontal Stabilizer Span Širina trupa / Fuselage Width Visina trupa / Fuselage Height Unutrašnje dimenzije / Internal Dimensions Dužina putničke kabine / Cabin Length Širina putničke kabine / Cabin Width Visina putničke kabine / Cabin Height Širina prolaza između sjedišta / Aisle Width Širina sjedišta / Seat Width 94ft 3in 126ft 10in 34ft 7in 39ft 8in 9ft 11in 11ft 0in 92ft 5in 9ft 0in 6ft 7in 19.75in 18.25in 28.72m 38.65m 10.55m 12.08m 3.01m 3.35m 28.17m 2.74m 2.00m 0.50m 0.46m 94 ft 3 in (28.72 m) Moskva / Moscow Montenegro Airlines Kadesevskaja nabereznaja, br.6/1/2 str. 1. Tel: +7 499 230 16 73 e-mail: office.moscow@mgx.me 39 ft 8 in (12.08 m) Niš Montenegro Airlines Niš ul. Vazduhoplovaca 24 18000 Niš tel/fax +381 18 4 583 336 169 Destinacije ljeto 2012. Destinations Destinacije summer 2012 ljeto 2012. Destinations summer 2012 CHARTER FLIGHTS NAUTIČKE MILJE KM Flight time NAUTIC MILES Trajanje leta (min) PODGORICA BEOGRAD/BELGRADE169 313 38 BEČ/VIENNA 43179865 FRANKFURT 7861456115 LJUBLJANA 40174360 RIM/ROME 35365460 CIRIH/ZURICH 6601222105 PARIZ/PARIS 9541764140 LONDON 9601776155 NIŠ 200365,2 35 Kopenhagen 900 1625 160 NAUTIČKE MILJE KM Flight time NAUTIC MILES Trajanje leta (min) PODGORICA BARI 21239236 NAPOLI 33762454 Brindizi (Brindisi)213 393 40 Istanbul (Istanbul)437 809 80 PETROGRAD/ST. PETERSBURG 1123 2078 180 ANKONA 330610 85 PALERMO 451834 90 Katanija 497 919110 TIVAT BEOGRAD/BELGRADE190 352 40 MOSKVA/MOSCOW1058 1959 190 Dragi putnici, Dear passengers, Molimo poštovane putnike da kontaktiraju Montenegro Airlines Booking službu (++ 382 20 19804), naša predstavništva ili ovlašćene putničke agencije radi detaljnih informacija o letovima. Please contact Montenegro Airlines central booking service on tel. +382 20 9804, our Branch Offices or authorised travel agents for flight details. S poštovanjem, Montenegro Airlines Komercijalni sektor www.montenegroairlines.com 170 Best regards, Montenegro Airlines Commercial Department Na osnovu interline ugovora sa brojnim avio-kompanijama u svijetu, Based on interline agreements with numerous airlines in the world, you can kod nas možete kupiti kartu za neku od sledećih destinacija: buy tickets to some of the following destinations in Montenegro Airlines offices: iz/from Frankfurt: Atlanta / Detroit / Chicago / Los Angeles / Miami / New York / Houston / Washinton / Dallas / Singapore / Manila Kuala Lumpur / Sydney / Toronto / Montreal / Tokyo / Osaka / Rio de Janeiro / Buenos Aires / Caracas / Mexico City iz/from Rome: Boston / Miami / Chicago / New York / Washington / Toronto / Beijing iz/from Wienna: Toronto / Montreal / Delhi / Beijing / Bangkok / Sydney / Melbourne 171
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