Suiseki- The Art of Viewing Stones - Bonsai Society of Upstate New

B
October 2013
Volume 42 Number 10
illboard
Newsletter of The Bonsai Society of Upstate New York
Suiseki- The Art of Viewing Stones
Mark Arpag
Next Meeting:
Tuesday, October 22, 7:00 pm
SUISEKI
T
his month Mark Arpag will present a
program on Suiseki: The Art Of Viewing
Stones at our meeting on October 22th.
Mark was instrumental in forming the
"Upstate New York Suiseki Study Group" to
increase the understanding and appreciation
of suiseki. He also presents suiseki lectures
and stages the annual study group exhibit.
Suiseki (viewing stones) are used often
when displaying bonsai to present a
complete picture of nature. They have been
shown individually or as part of a formal
bonsai display. This is why many bonsai
enthusiasts also collect viewing stones.
Appreciation for viewing stones began with Suiseki, an ancient Japanese art
form that classified viewing stones into formal categories such as Scenic
Landscape Stones, which are miniature renderings of mountains, waterfalls,
and coastal islands, to Object Stones, which recall the shape of human figures,
animals, thatched huts, bridges, and
thirdly, Pattern Stones. They are valued
for their unique surface patterns, resulting
from variations in color, unusual texture,
and contrasting mineral inclusions.
Suiseki are naturally formed stones,
unaltered other than cleaning. They are
treasured for their colors, textures and
Island Stone at
patina that is a sure sign of their ancient
3rd
Upstate
NY Suiseki Exhibit
geological age.
To the Japanese collector the most vital part of Suiseki is more than just
representational. It is also spiritual. Quoting from a pamphlet of the San
Francisco Suiseki Kai, "The contemplation of a stone as a symbol of nature
relaxes the mind from the pressures of a complex daily life and allows a person
to retain their sense of values." Mark’s comment on this is “Some Suiseki have
the power to “pull you in”, my concern is not coming back. If I turn up missing
you might have to organize a search party.”
Members are invited to bring a Suiseki to display during the meeting.
Be sure to come – You won’t be disappointed!
Mark Arpag
Brighton Town Lodge at Buckland Park
1341 Westfall Road, Rochester, New York
near corner of Westfall and Clinton
Billboard is brought to you by:
PRESIDENT:
Harvey Carapella,
President@bonsaisocietyofupstateny.org
CO-EDITORS & PHOTOGRAPHERS:
Tom Friday & Irma Abu-Jumah
Billboard@bonsaisocietyofupstateny.org
CONTRIBUTORS:
Mark Arpag, William N. Valavanis
2013–14 PROGRAMS
November 26: Bonsai Critique: Harvey
Carapella, Mark Arpag, and Jim Dolce
December 17: Holiday Party/Auction
January 28: Harvey Carapella,
Windswept Style bonsai
February 25: Bill Valavanis, Yuji
Yoshimura Tribute
March 25: TBD
April 22: David Easterbrook, Canada:
Larch bonsai
May 17-18: 41th BSUNY Exhibition
June 24: Summer Picnic/Auction/Sale
July 22: Garden Tour: Oriental Garden
Supply
August 26: Bring Your Own Tree
Workshop
September 15: Nakamura (Japan)
www.bonsaisocietyofupstateny.org
2
Using Fungicides to Control Bonsai Diseases
by Nina Shishkoff
Introduction
This was originally a post that appeared on the Internet
Bonsai Club mail list in November 1996. It was updated
in February 1997. Nina is a plant pathologist who works
at the Long Island Horticultural Research Lab.
Read the Label
Although it 's nice to control pests organically, it isn't
always possible. Pesticides used properly are safe and
effective. However, if used improperly they can make
you sick or damage your bonsai. Here are a few
suggestions for their safe use.
First, go out and buy the proper product: don't borrow
your Uncle Ed's bottle of DDT that's been sitting in the
garage for 25 years. It's no longer legal and it's past its
expiration date. Next, before using any pesticide, read
the label. It will tell you whether the product will work
for the disease you want to control. Some chemicals may
be effective for a use, but for whatever reason, have not
been officially tested. This is a particular problem for
bonsai, since some plants are unknown outside of the
community of bonsai growers, and no pesticide company
is going to spend thousands of dollars to register a
pesticide for a rare plant. You have to check the label for
wording like "for greenhouse use" or "for use on landscape
plantings". This means the product is broadly labeled
(but a product labeled for indoor use should not be used
in the backyard!). It's a good idea to test the product on a
small portion of the plant or on a less valuable specimen
of the same species to make sure it isn't, damaging or
killing leaves.
The label will also give you information on how to safely
apply the chemical. Toxicity is the degree to which an
insecticide is poisonous; Hazard is the risk of being
exposed. The label will instruct you on the use of protective
clothing and precautions. In general it is a good idea to
avoid skin contact with the pesticide, to avoid inhaling it,
to wash skin and clothing after use, and to store it safely
(in a cool, well-ventilated area away from children and
pets).
Types of Control
Different fungicides have different properties. A
protectant is a fungicide that will shield healthy tissue
from invasion. An eradicant will kill fungi that have
already invaded the plant. A systemic fungicide spreads
within the plant and can protect areas that weren't
directly hit (for example, the undersides of leaves would
be protected even if only the top surface of the leaf was
hit by spray droplets).
www.bonsaisocietyofupstateny.org
Different fungi are ....different. They are a diverse group
of organisms, some of which are only distantly related to
the others (for example, members of the water molds, are
really more closely related to algae than to true fungi).
Furthermore, they occupy different parts of the plant. For
these reasons, not all fungicides will be equally effective
on all fungi. If your bonsai shows symptoms of root rot,
you need to treat the tree as quickly as possible, but
without knowing what is causing the root rot, you may
not be able to control the fungus in time to save the tree.
Many root rot fungi can be controlled with Thiophanate
methyl or PCNB, but water molds require fungicides like
Fosetyl-A1or Metalaxyl. Most of these fungi will not be
controlled with a protectant if rotting has already
occurred because once in tissue, the fungus can spread
throughout the root system; an eradicant is necessary.
Because roots are hard to treat directly, either the fungicide
must be applied as a SOIL DRENCH, or it has to travel
systemically through the plant. Furthermore, because soil
is wet and contains diverse microbes, a fungicide may
degrade rapidly, requiring multiple applications.
Obviously, for a protectant to work most effectively, it
must be sprayed before disease occurs and reapplied until
there is no longer danger of infection. This, however, can
be expensive, and the more fungi are exposed to a
fungicide, the more likely they are to develop resistance
to it. Common sense is required. If you live near an apple
orchard and grow crabapple bonsai, you may need to
spray your plants regularly to prevent infection by common
apple pathogens. If you live above the timberline on Mt.
Shasta, however, the uses of protectants “just in case” are
a waste of money.
Fungicides
The following is a list of some fungicides that can be
used in New York State for diseases of trees and shrubs.
To make absolutely sure you are spraying the right
fungicide for your situation, call your local Cooperative
Extension agent.

For leaf spots: Triadimefon, Chlorothalonil,
Benomyl, Mancozeb, Propiconazole.

For powdery mildew: Triadimefon (but some mildews
are resistant).

For rusts: Mancozeb, Chlorothalonil, Propiconazole

For root rots caused by water molds
(Phytophthora or Pythium): Fosetyl-A1, Metalaxyl

For root rots caused by other fungi: thiophanate
methyl

Seed treatments: Captan
3
T
September Highlights
he September meeting featured a talk and demonstrations by Owen
Reich from Tennessee and Japan. It was well attended by 43 members
and guests. Those who were there came away with lots of new ideas and
suggestions from Owen as he worked on two different trees. Members were
asked to help decide on what would be the best changes to make to the demo
trees. Owen answered questions and gave us many insights into his personal
sentiments on the art of bonsai. He refers to his teaching style as “laid back
and practical”, and says that “the most important thing about bonsai is
that this stuff should be fun!”.
Our thanks go to Owen for sharing his expertise with us.
The two demo trees were raffled off. The Dwarf Hinoki was won
by Robert Taylor. The False Cypress Bunjingi (Literati Style) tree
was won by Glenn Morton. Since no one won the “Name That
Tree” contest, the White Cedar pre-bonsai was raffled and won by
Nick Montanaro. Hope we see these trees on display in the future.
The Society appreciates everyone who purchased tickets for the
raffle. The Society also thanks Ron and JoAnn Maggio for
hosting Owen while he was here.
www.bonsaisocietyofupstateny.org
4
It’s That Time of the Year Again...
indoor species should be protected in the home. Do
A llnotyour
be surprised if some of the leaves turn yellow and drop, it
Cork Bark pine
American Larch Forest
is natural to lose some foliage due to the reduced light. Plants tend
to dry out a lot quicker indoors than they did outside for a while,
then they will adapt to the dry conditions indoors. It is much too
early to put your hardy outdoor specimens away for the winter.
Wait until we have had a few good hard frosts, at least the end of
November or early December. While you are waiting, now is the
time to remove all the old needles on pines. Do not put them
away for winter with old dead needles because they might harbor
pests or diseases. Also, removing the old needles will provide
good sun and air to the inner sections of the tree that will
stimulate new buds from the old wood. After you remove the old
dead needles, remove some of the new needles leaving a few
clusters around the tips of each bud. New buds will grow more
vigorously if you remove these needles. If the moss is lush, green
and thick around your bonsai, you might want to remove some of
it before winter to allow better air circulation to the roots and to
prevent fungus from growing in the thick moss. Enjoy your
bonsai during their bright autumnal color-fest. Remember, it will
not last long because it’s that time of year again.... W.N.V.
Pictures: BSUNY members trees at the 2013 Spring Exhibition.
Photography by Joe Noga
Suiseki—Viewing Stones
Korean Hornbeam
Japanese Red Maple
Dues Are Due!
Society dues are
now o v e r d u e !
If you joined us at or after
the spring show, you are
already paid through
August 2014.
Otherwise, see our
treasurer, Ron Maggio
at the next meeting .
If dues are not received, this will
be the last Billboard you receive.
So, if you start missing the Billboard,
you know it slipped your mind.
Thanks!!!
Upstate NY Suiseki Study Group Exhibits
www.bonsaisocietyofupstateny.org
2124 DUTCH HOLLOW RD.
AVON, NEW YORK 14414
585-226-8593 585-734-7035
Email: hollowcreekbonsai@yahoo.com
FALL SALE STARTS NOV. 1st.
25% OFF ON EVERYTHING
AT THE NURSERY AND STORE
BONSAI TOOLS
BONSAI
BOOKS
IKEBANA
BONSAI POTS
BONSAI
SOIL
BONSAI TREES
VIEWING STONES
YES WE MEAN EVERYTHING!
GET YOUR HOLIDAY GIFTS
OR JUST STOCK UP FOR
SPRING BUT HURRY...
SALE ENDS
THANKSGIVING!
BSUNY neither recommends nor endorses this program or organization.
Distribution of informational material is for the convenience of BSUNY members and does not imply endorsement by the society.