2004 Brunello di Montalcino

POGGIO ANTICO
2004 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO “ALTERO”
95
(
)
(Gigi Brozzoni / Daniel Thomases)
92
2004 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO
(
)
(Gigi Brozzoni)
2003 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA
92
(
)
(Gigi Brozzoni / Daniel Thomases)
2006 “MADRE” I.G.T. TOSCANA
91
(
)
(Daniel Thomases)
2007 ROSSO DI MONTALCINO
90
(
)
(Daniel Thomases)
Legenda / Rating System:
Le Tre Stelle Blu sono un ulteriore riconoscimento che viene attribuito ad una determinata annata di un vino,
già ai vertici nelle precedenti edizioni, che abbia ottenuto dagli Autori (Gigi Brozzoni e Daniel Thomases)
valutazioni superiori a 92 centesimi.
The Three Blu Stars is an extra mention assigned to a specific vintage of a wine already rated over 92 points
in the previous edition by the Authors (Gigi Brozzoni and Daniel Thomases).
Vino eccellente – Excellent wine.
Vino ottimo – Great wine.
Vino buono – Good wine.
Nr. 56
June 2009
94 Punkte ► 2004 Brunello di Montalcino
Der 2004 Brunello di Montalcino zeigt herrlich viel Frucht im Bouquet, Veilchen und
Sauerkirschen, ist faszinierend reintönig und eindringlich. Er ist kraftvoll und stoffig im
Mund, konzentriert und eindringlich, besitzt viel reife Frucht, viel Substanz und
jugendliche Tannine, braucht Zeit.
93 Punkte ► 2004 Brunello di Montalcino “Altero”
Feine Würze, viel reife Frucht (Sauerkirschen), etwas florale Noten und dezent
Schokolade prägen das Bouquet des 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Altero. Er ist füllig
und kraftvoll im Mund, besitzt viel reife Frucht, gute Substanz und Struktur, feine
Frische, ist jungendlich und nachhaltig.
93 Punkte ► 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
Die 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva zeigt faszinierend viel Frucht im Bouquet,
reife Sauerkirschen und Herzkirschen, ist herrlich reintönig und eindringlich. Sie ist
füllig und schmeichelnd im Mund, besitzt viel reife süße Frucht, feine Frische und
Eleganz, eine dezente Schokonote, Struktur und Länge.
91 Punkte ► 2006 Madre
Der 2006 Madre Besteht jeweils zur Hälfte aus Sangiovese und Cabernet Sauvignon.
Er zeigt gute Konzentration im Bouquet, reife Frucht, etwas Eukalyptus und Cassis. Im
Mund ist er weich, füllig und schmeichelnd, besitzt viel reife Frucht, eine feine
Schokonote, ist lang und nachhaltig.
88 Punkte ► 2007 Rosso di Montalcino
Der 2007 Rosso di Montalcino zeigt gute Konzentration und wunderschön reintönige
Frucht im Bouquet, etwas Sauerkirschen und Veilchen. Er ist weich und füllig im Mund
bei reifer klarer Frucht.
POGGIO ANTICO
2006 “MADRE” I.G.T. TOSCANA
($
80,00)
2004 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO “ALTERO”
($ 115,00)
2004 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO
($ 96,00)
2003 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO “RISERVA”
($ 169,00)
2007 ROSSO DI MONTALCINO
($ 49,00)
92
91
90
90
89
Poggio Antico is one of Montalcino’s most consistent producers. The wines are made in a
rich, fruit-driven style. The 2007 Rosso di Montalcino is a soft, caressing wine with an
attractive floral red fruits and sweet spices on a medium-body frame. The wine reveals
plenty of depth at this level and is an excellent choice for near-term drinking. Anticipated
maturity: 2009-2012. The 2006 Madre is 50% Sangiovese and 50% Cabernet
Sauvignon that spent 18 months in French oak. It is an opulent, totally engaging wine
that coats the palate with generous dark fruit, sweet spices, grilled herbs and scents of
toasted French oak. Finessed tannins round out this full-bodied, seductive red.
Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. The estate’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is a soft,
supple effort. Silky tannins frame a graceful core of perfumed ripe fruit. This mediumbodied reveals terrific length and focus in a mid-weight, polished style. The wine is likely
to acquire more complexity in bottle but its balance makes it one of the accessible 2004
Brunellos. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. The 2004 Altero is a silky, perfumed wine
laced with dark fruit, licorice, new leather and French oak. Medium in body, this
accessible Brunello offers outstanding harmony and class in a refined style. Altero spends
two years in medium-sized French oak barrels prior to being bottled. Anticipated
maturity: 2009-2019. The 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva spent one year in
French oak followed by two years in larger Slavonian oak barrels. It is a full-bodied, soft
Brunello with impressive concentration in its dark fruit, new leather, spices and tobacco.
The wine possesses outstanding length on the palate and lovely overall balance.
2004 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino
2004 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino Altero
92
90 (+?)
Af Søren Frank
Mandag 02. marts 2009
1. Talenti Il Grappolo Blu
Siden Talenti har fået tilknyttet konsulenten Carlo Ferrini, er kvaliteten røget helt i top. Vinen er til den moderne
side, tæt mørk og saftig og præget af træ (600l tonneaux), uden at det bliver for meget.
(Ero Ora)
2. Fuligni
Fuligni laver år efter år elegante, silkebløde vine med saftig moden frugt – konsulenten er Vagaggini. Ingen barrique
at spore her.
(www.Theis-vin.dk)
3. Poggio Antico, normale + Altero
Denne vingård brugte Ferrini indtil 2005, hvor man skiftede til Vagaggini. Stilen i 04 bærer stadig mest
præg af førstnævntes fingeraftryk. Den almindelige brunello er elegant og klassisk, mens Altero, der har
fået 600l tonneaux, er mere tæt, mørk og fadpræget.
(www.vinmaegleren.com/www.bichel.dk)
4. La Rasina BB Vinimport
Relativt ny stjerne på Brunello-himlen. Tætte mørke vine med saftig, frugt, barrique og amerikanertække.
(www.bb-vinimport.dk)
5. Siro Pacenti
Pacenti er altid svær at smage ung, fordi frugten er dækket af ristet mokka-duftende træ, som man kender det fra
Bordeaux, men kvaliteten er indiskutabel.
(Den blå Port, tlf. 86 12 18 10)
6. Podere Canalino
Minimal ejendom på bare tre hektar, som debuterer i 04 med en herlig ren og elegant stil uden brug af barrique.
(ingen importør)
7. Mastroianni
Klassisk producent uden barrique med en traditionel, men altid elegant tone. Vingården er netop blevet solgt.
8. Cantina di Montalcino Vinens verden
Jeg var nødt til at gensmage denne vin et par gange for at sikre mig, at det var rigtigt, at Montalcinos kooperativ var
havnet i min top 10. Men jo, selv om her måske ikke er den vildeste koncentration, har konsulenten Alberto Antonini
kreeret en silkeblød, nærmest burgundisk stil.
(www.wine.dk)
9. Uccelliera
Vinen er moderne, dyb, mørk og saftig og balancerer altid lige på grænsen, hvad angår brugen af barriques.
(www.fiasco-vine.dk)
10. Mocali
Enkeltmarksvinen er kraftig og tæt med moderne saftig frugt og tydelig præg af barriques.
(www.adriatvinimport.dk)
(Heinz Feller)
“Brunello is back!” Tom Hyland’s 2004 tasting notes
Posted on March 2nd, 2009 by VinoWire
VinoWire contributor Tom Hyland is the author of Reflections on Wine.
I attended the Benvenuto Brunello tastings last weekend in Montalcino (…) the new examples of Brunello di
Montalcino from 2004 are first-rate.
These wines have lovely garnet color, rich cherry fruit, excellent concentration, persistence in the finish and healthy
acidity - in other words, everything you want and expect in a classic Brunello. These wines are most similar to those
from 1999 and share many of the same characteristics of the 2001 vintage, which was a bit more deeply concentrated.
While these wines may not age quite as long as the best from 2001, these will have plenty of staying power, as I
marked down “20 years-plus” for my top selections.
While most estates did make a very successful wine in 2004 (if you didn’t, you’ve got problems), the traditionally
made wines - those aged in large casks known as botti grandi - performed extremely well. I believe that in a classic
year such as 2004 where fruit is dominant, using the big casks to minimize wood is the proper way to go, as this allows
the varietal purity of Sangiovese to shine through. Perhaps in lesser years when the fruit isn’t the controlling factor, a
bit more wood might be the way to go (maybe), but certainly in 2004, the traditional producers performed brilliantly.
Here are notes on my best 2004 Brunellos, each of which receives a five-star (Oustanding) rating in my book:
Poggio Antico “Altero” - Poggio
Antico, one of Montalcino’s greatest estates,
makes two styles of Brunello: a traditionally
aged one in large casks and this wine, aged in
mid-size French barrels known as tonneau. So
this wine is in between strict traditional
methods and modern practices. Both wines are
first-rate this year, but I give the edge to the
Altero for its power and varietal purity. Red
cherry, red pepper and subtle vanilla aromas;
excellent concentration; lively acidity and
beautiful balance. Great fruit persistence; best
in 15-20 years.
Sesta di Sopra
Talenti
Il Palazzone
Il Poggione
Caprili
Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona
Fuligni
Uccelliera
Pian dell’Orino
Wines that just missed out on my outstanding rating, but ones that I rate as excellent include: Caparzo, Silvio Nardi,
Tenimenti Angelini and the more modern bottlings of Casanuova delle Cerbaie and Siro Pacenti.
—Tom Hyland
May 3, 2009
2004 BRUNELLO
Outstanding (92)
Quite a deep, slightly buttery nose, ripe, partly preserved red berries and some plums,
sweet cherries, very light leathery notes, hint of licorice and some floral traces. Very
clear on the palate, juicy and firm, loads of ripe fruit and mature tannins, persistent,
creamy and full-bodied, but not at all heavy, very harmonious, long, juicy, fruity finish
with some mineral notes.
Note: 0.26% of wines tasted for this country (Italy) were rated higher than this wine, 99.47%
were rated lower
2003 RISERVA
Outstanding (91)
Preserved red and some black berries on the nose, hint of plums, cedary traces and
light spicy notes, touch of licorice, floral and vegetal notes, nutty notes and spicy oak.
Ripe, juicy fruit on the palate, well integrated oak, touch of chocolate and nougat,
very creamy, predominantly mature tannins, only slightly astringent, becomes more
juicy with aeration, very good persistence and depth, full body, hint of licorice in the
background, light spicy oak on a long, juicy finish.
Note: 0.53% of wines tasted for this country (Italy) were rated higher than this wine, 98.95%
were rated lower
2006 MADRE
Outstanding (90)
Quite a deep nose, partly candied black berries, plums and some red berries, some
undergrowth, leaves and earthy notes, fairly prominent licorice, light smoky and
roasted notes. More predominantly dark fruit on the palate, quite juicy and lively,
quite persistent, full-bodied, relatively fine tannins, only slightly astringent, very
creamy, good depth, very good long, juicy finish.
Note: 1.05% of wines tasted for this country (Italy) were rated higher than this wine, 98.12%
were rated lower
2004 ALTERO
Excellent (89+)
Ripe, partly preserved red berries, hint of cherries and plums on the nose, nutty
traces, some dried floral notes, licorice and earthy notes, sweetish spicy oak. Fullbodied and juicy on the palate, loads of ripe, creamy and quite concentrated fruit,
slightly sweetish spicy oak, very slightly brittle oak tannins, spicy notes in the
background, some more licorice, quite deep and persistent, well balanced, long, juicy,
creamy finish, but also slightly astringent, and develops tart sooty notes with aeration.
Note: 1.88% of wines tasted for this country (Italy) were rated higher than this wine, 96.93%
were rated lower
2007 ROSSO
Excellent (86)
Very slightly earthy nose, ripe red berries and a hint of plums, some floral and mineral
traces. Quite juicy on the palate, fairly warm style, ripe fruit, creamy and very slightly
jammy, very fine, mature tannins, good persistence, very harmonious, floral traces on
a good finish.
Note: 9.79% of wines tasted for this country (Italy) were rated higher than this wine, 83.67%
were rated lower
Rating System:
70+:
75+:
80+:
85+:
90+:
95+:
adequate
satisfactory
very good
excellent
outstanding
extraordinary
Statistic:
This guide contains 6217 Italian wines with description,
rating and pictures, 5385 producers, 1159 of it with
detailed information. In the last 7 days, for this guide, we had
tasted and described 34, and in the last 30 days 150 wines.
Web Only, issue #20, March 2009
POGGIO ANTICO
2004 ALTERO - BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO
92
Shows currants and raspberries, with a hint of vanilla on the nose. Full-bodied, with fine tannins
and a long and subtle, yet flavorful finish. Refined and pretty. Best from 2010 through 2015. JS.
2004 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO
91
Displays aromas of raspberries, flowers and minerals. Full-bodied, yet refined and racy, with
hints of black pepper and blackberry character. Racy finish. Drink now. - JS.
June 30, 2009
POGGIO ANTICO
2003 RISERVA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO
91
Shows blackberry and raspberry aromas, with hints of fresh flowers, such as roses.
Full and silky, with a firm tannin structure and a lot of wood, but there’s ripe,
classy fruit holding this together. One of the better riservas from this vintage. Best
from 2010 through 2015. - J.S.
EUROPE
Winter wine tasting in Montepulciano and Montalcino in
southern Tuscany
The area's famous reds can be found during tours of wineries in the region.
By Susan Spano, Reporting from Siena, Italy
04:58 PM PDT, March 13, 2009
The grapevines of southern Tuscany rest in winter.
You see them in soldierly rows around the hill towns of Montepulciano and
Montalcino, tethered to stakes like crucifixes, brown, gnarled and
seemingly dead.
Not so. This dormant time in the life cycle of the grape is the beginning of
rich and fruitful life to come, which even winter travelers can appreciate by
touring wineries in the hill country about 50 miles southeast of Siena.
The region is renowned for complex red wines chiefly made from the Sangiovese grape, brought
to America by Italian immigrants in the late 19th century, but arguably most deliciously at home in
Tuscany.
On our trip to Siena last month, my sister, Martha, and I made appointments to tour and taste at
two vineyards. At Poggio Antico, about five miles outside Montalcino, and Tenuta Valdipiatta,
near Montepulciano, the tours are free, though sampling the full range of wine costs about $25.
Since 1984, a family from Milan, Italy, has owned Poggio Antico and it's now run by the founder's
daughter Paola Gloder Montefiori, one of the many women involved in southern Tuscan
winemaking. The estate's 80 acres of vineyards, winery and acclaimed restaurant (closed when
we visited) sit atop a ridge reached by a long, curving, cypress-lined drive. In fair weather, we
were told, the Tyrrhenian seacoast is visible on the western horizon, but in a February fog we
couldn't see past the parking lot.
Our guide, a young Italian woman who had studied grape cultivation at UC Davis, took us into the
highly mechanized fermentation room and the cellar, explaining how the estate produces its highly
prized Brunello, the wine that made the Montalcino region famous.
State-certified Brunello bears the DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) seal,
meaning that it has been produced following a strict set of rules. A Brunello di Montalcino must,
among other things, be made of 100% Sangiovese grapes, aged for at least four years (including
two years in oak casks) and bottled in the Montalcino area. Younger Brunello is called Rosso di
Montalcino, and is about half as expensive as the older vintage.
After the tour, Martha and I sampled five Poggio Antico wines at a counter in the tasting room,
including a memorable red-brown 2003 Brunello di Montalcino and a fine Rosso.
From there, we drove on to the lovely Tuscan hill town of Montepulciano where we stayed at the
four-room Locanda San Francesco, run by Cinzia Caporali, the daughter of a local vintner. She
arranged a tour for us at Tenuta Valdipiatta, a small, homey winery started by her father in the late
'80s and now managed by another Caporali daughter, Miriam. (…)
susan.spano@latimes.com