nearby hilltowns and destinations

Nearby Towns and
Destinations
current residents into ones from terracotta sculpture and friezes.
Watch as the owner of the local pizzeria pulls a pizza from the oven,
smiling, and then freezes as his face blends into that of an Etruscan
terracotta cowboy. Aside from that section’s diversion, the video
is of poor quality and difficult to understand. Skip the first fifteen
minutes to start at the section where a local walks you through the
remains at Poggio Civitate, which is not open to visitors.
Murlo
D i n i n g : Murlo proper has one restaurant, the Pizzeria dell’
10 km. Approximately 10 min. Take the road from Bibbiano north
where signs point to Murlo. Park outside and below the walls.
Tourist office: information in the Museo Etrusco, 0577814099.
Tiny, perfectly kept Murlo is a quick drive from the borgo and a
nice outing for a dinner of pizza in a charmingly pristine, walled
town that is really only one circle of buildings. It is also the home a
major Etruscan excavation site that has become a source of intense
pride to its natives. Here, the people claim DNA proof that they
are in fact, of Etruscan heritage.
Touring:
Murlo’s
Museo
Etrusco
(P iazza
della
Arco (V i a d e l l e C a rc e ri 13, 0577811092 , C los e d M on da y ). A truly
local place, this is a good spot for classic Tuscan fare and particularly,
pizzas. It can get quite full in all seasons, so be sure to call ahead
if you want to ensure a place. B osco della S pina (0577814605 ,
C los e d T u e s da y ) just outside of town is a slightly fancier alternative
with a design-heavy, modern interior. Take a left out of Vescovado
di Murlo. The restaurant / agriturismo is at left.
E v e n t s : Murlo hosts a F e s ta M e d i e va l e in early June with
an authentic medieval feast in the street. Then in early September,
they jump back a few millennia more for a W e e k e n d E t r u s c o ,
with a guided archaeological tour (and a second on horseback), a
parade, music, and feasting.
C at t e d ra l e , 0 5 7 7 8 1 4 0 9 9 , closed M onda y and daily fro m 1 p . m .—3 p . m . )
sits in what was formally the bishop’s palace. Its collection comes
from the excavation at P o g g i o C i v i tat e to the town’s north. The
original 7th century princely dwelling in the Orientalizing style was
lost to fire and replaced with a more monumental, decorative palace
of the Archaic style in the 6th BC. The palace was mysteriously and
deliberately dismantled, buried, and abandoned in an earth bank
in 525 BC. Here, the artifacts from Poggio Civitate are arranged
by style and period and where possible, reconstructed. There is a
large room that reconstructs the roof of the palace with its elaborate
decoration of acroterial figures, including the cowboy who is
the museum’s mascot. The museum offers an introductory video
in English, which draws an ambiguous, though amusing visual
connection with their alleged ancestors by morphing the faces of
- 142 -
San Quirico
15 km. Approximately 20 min. Take Cassia S2 south, exit right.
Follow signs to parking in large, street-side lot. Tourist office: Via
Dante Alighieri, 33, 0577897211.
San Quirico emerged as an important spot on the Via Francigena
pilgrimage route to Rome, the gateway south through the Orcia
Valley. Its walls and intact gates remain from the 12th century.
This is a pleasant stopover on a tour of the greater Val d’Orcia,
whether heading to south Bagno Vignoni or la Foce or east to
- 143 -
Pienza and Montepulciano. Be sure to wander the Horti Leonini.
An al fresco meal at Vecchio Forno is always a good bet for an
authentic Tuscan experience.
Touring:
A look at the twelfth-century Romanesque
C o l l e g i ata church in itself is enough to warrant stopping in San
Quirico. The two Gothic portals on the right side are studded with
stone-carved lions and the southern door may belong to Giovanni
Pisano. Take special note of the intricate carving of the rose
window on the Romanesque western portal. The inside boasts a
Sano di Pietro triptych and choir stalls from the baptistry in Siena.
To the side of the Collegiata is the P a l a z z o C h i g i , bordered by
the Via Poliziano that leads to the tower-gate that is the P o rta
a i C a pp u c c i n i . The O rt i L i o n i n i are Diomede Leoni’s stately
late-sixteenth-century sculpture gardens and a beautiful spot for a
picnic lunch amid geometric rows of hedges, cypresses, and great
oaks. Look for the inscription hic ver assiduum, “here is eternal
springtime.” The P arco C ulturale , A rtistico e N aturale
della V al d ’O rcia is based in San Quirico (V ia D ante A lighieri
33, 05 7 7 8 9 8 3 0 3 ), an association of the five communities of the Val
d’Orcia: San Quirico, Pienza, Montepulciano, Castiglione d’Orcia,
and Radicofani. The association offers a variety of cultural and
recreational itineraries through the district. See Itinerary 6 for
more information.
Dining:
Trattoria
Vecchio Forno (V ia P iazzola , 8,
05778 9 7 3 8 0 , c los e d W ednesda y ) enjoys legendary guidebook status
as the simplest of stops, serving high quality Tuscan food. There is
a garden for al fresco dining on pleasant days.
al
E v e n t s : Market day is Monday, with a special huge market,
the F i e r a d i S e t t e mb r e the Monday following the first Sunday in
September. Every June, on the third Sunday, the town celebrates a
F e s ta d e l B a r b a r o s s a in honor of when Frederick Barbarossa
hosted guests from Pope Adrian IV in this tiny town with an archery
contest between the Orti and the Collegiata. There is an olive oil
- 144 -
festival, F e s ta d e l l ’O l i o to celebrate the new pressing in the
first week of December with stands, theatrical events, and tastings
of course. The F e s t i va l d e l l a V a l d ’O r c i a (0577898303 )
stages various events of music, theater, and dance throughout the
region from the end of July to mid-August.
Pienza
25 km. Approximately 30 min. Take Cassia S2 south to San Quirico,
exit right and follow signs left to Pienza, taking a left at the stop as
you face the town walls. Parking is available on the street and in
large pay lot to the left, with more free parking on the road toward
Montepulciano. Tourist office: Corso Rossellino 59, 0578749071.
Pienza is exceptional among a bevy of Sienese medieval towns
thanks to a three year makeover by favorite child Pope Pius II,
which turned it into a model of Renaissance perfection in the
mid-fifteenth-century. It is also home to the renowned Pecorino di
Pienza, a cheese that owes its special aroma to the fragrant fields
where sheep graze all around the town. This truly charming town
should definitely appear in a tour of the area’s best.
An ideal visit to Pienza could work in conjunction with San Quirico,
Monticchiello, or even Montepulciano. It could also happen in
conjunction with a visit to local pecorino farms, olive fields, and
vineyards. When visiting the town proper, take time to enjoy the
quaint streets (the tiny alleyways off the main way whimsically
named the way of shadows “ombre” and of the kiss “del bacio”) and
particularly the specially achieved harmony of the main Renaissance
square. Have a cappuccino in the Piazza or along the wall looking
over the Val d’Orcia. Follow your nose to a cheese shop and sample
the local favorites, perhaps selecting a few to bring home.
Touring:
The P a l a z z o P i c c o l o m i n i housed Pius’s
family until 1968 on the town’s P i a z z a P i o II. Now it is a museum
- 145 -
where one can tour the pope’s bedroom, library, hanging gardens,
and loggia with an outstanding view of the valley below from the
third story loggia, being cited as the first Italian building whose
design was intended to offer views of the countryside (a vailable
on ly i n g u i d e d tours ,
T ues .—S un . 10
a . m .—12:30 p . m .,
3
p . m .—6
p . m ., c los e d mu c h of the winter ). The square itself is of particular
interest due to its position as the earliest noted example of town
planning policy. Even the inlaid rectangles of its paving stress
order and proportion. The P a l a z z o P u bb l i c o opens onto the
square from a classical loggia and is also available for tours. Across
the square from the Palazzo Pubblico and in balance to the civic
power it represents, perches the Duomo, built in 1459 as architect
Bernardo Rossellini’s conception of Renaissance order. Inside rest
several important works from the Sienese school, most notably Sano
di Pietro’s Madonna and Saints and Vecchietta’s Assumption.
The precarious site has caused trouble from the start with the
original medieval church, but it allows an incredible view of the
Val d’Orcia. The Museo Diocesano on the Corso Rossellino also
houses paintings from the Sienese school and Flemish tapestries
(10 a . m .—12:30 p . m ., 3 p . m .—6:30 p . m ., closed T ues . in the su mm er , 10
a . m .—1 p . m ., 3 p . m .—6 p . m ., closed M on .—T hurs . in the winter ).
S h o p p i n g : L’Enoteca di Ghino comes with a great
reputation (V i a d el L eone 16 ). La Cornucopia / Club delle
Fattorie (P i a z z a M artiri 2 ) enjoys foodie fame for its surprisingly
reliable mail order business and its excellent range of specialty food
items (C los e d T u esda y ). It is possible to find good local pecorino
in many of the cheese shops lining the main street, although many
producers only sell on site. For a wide selection of pottery under
medieval vaults, venture down the Via Gozzante (no . 33 ) to the
southwest corner of the town walls and the shop, Ceramiche
d ’A rte B ai L inda . For beautiful ironworks by an old family-run
company, F erro B attuto B iagiotti (C orso R ossellino , 67 ) is
quite a find, with an even better workshop outside of town on the
road to Montepulciano.
- 146 -
Dining:
Latte di Luna offers a sunny patio at the eastern
end of the main Corso Rossellino (C los e d T u e s da y , 0578748606 ).
Ristorante Dal Falco on the Piazza Dante is also reliable (C los e d
F ri da y , 0578748551 ). Look for pecorino alla g riglia, grilled local
sheepsmilk cheese as a main course, to test out the local specialty.
For dinner, be sure to make a reservation to try Il Rossellino
(C los e d T h u rs da y , 0578749064 ), whose knowledgeable owner is
known for putting on a show and will make your experience one to
remember.
E v e n t s : The F i e r a d e l C a c i o on the first Saturday and
Sunday in September celebrates the local specialty with a medieval
fair. Taking things a step further, the town also holds a G i o c o d e l
C a c i o a l F u s o , or a “game of melted cheese” that is not unlike
bowling, in the Piazza Pio II. The T e at r o P o v e r o performs
every July (s e e b e low ).
S i de T r i p s : Nearby M o n t i c c h i e l l o may be the most
perfect of the tiny towns that dot Tuscan hillsides. The beautiful
road starting outside Pienza’s Porta al Prato makes the journey as
worthy as the destination. Its quaint flawlessness offers the perfect
counterpoint to one of Italy’s more avant-garde attractions, the
T e at r o P o v e r o , a grassroots theater company that performs in
July. The C h u r c h o f S a i n t s L e o n a r d a n d C h r i s t o p h e r
is thirteenth-century. Call in a reservation for the simple but highly
lauded T averna di M oranda on the Via di Mezzo (0578755050,
clos e d F ri da y ).
A n I n te r e s t i n g N o te : When Pius II died in
1464, so ended Pienza’s growth, which had been intended to extend
far beyond the present line of the town to encompass the entire
hillside. Local politico Bruno Santi describes the town as “the
peculiar expression of a humanistic dream never realized,” in Marco
Pierini’s locally-published Pienza guide (1999, San Quirico: Nuova
Immagine, available in the town information center and various
- 147 -
tobacco shops). The resultant shell of a town lent itself naturally to
film and is famously immortalized in Zeffirelli’s Romeo and Juliet,
a fairer Vernona.
Montepulciano
38 km. Approximately 45 min. Take Cassia S2 south to San Quirico,
exit right and follow signs left to Montepulciano, through Pienza.
Parking is available on the northern tip at the Piazza S. Agnese and
in a large lot around the corner and downhill. Tourist office: Via
Gracciano 59a, 0578757341.
Montepulciano’s name is now famous for what Francesco Redi called
“the king of all wines.” A beautiful city perched high (665m) above
the Val di Chiana and the Val d’Orcia on a narrow strip of tufa rock,
Montepulciano boasts an array of beautiful buildings and palazzi
and an equally enticing wine, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The
tower of the Palazzo Communale affords an uncommon view that
stretches all the way to Cortona and Umbria’s Lake Trasimeno.
An ideal day in Montepulciano could take many forms, for indeed
it is a rich enough town to warrant extended stays on its own.
A single day in Montepulciano might begin with an alternative
drive through the Crete Senesi and Trequanda, lunching at San
Biagio, and then climbing to town to sample wine and take in the
architecture. It could also be undertaken as part of a rural, wine
and cheese tour, as there are many excellent producers in the area.
Finally, Montepulciano can be a part of the Val d’Orcia itinerary
(Itinerary 3).
Touring:
Thanks to an alliance with Florence in the
sixteenth-century, Montepulciano grew into a Renaissance town
unlike most in the area. The town’s last stage of gates and walls are
the product of Antonio Sangallo the Elder, who moved from that
commission to both secular works and many churches in the town.
- 148 -
The main C o r s o is home to a number of palaces and countless
wine shops. It is interesting to follow the curving street, stopping
for brief side trips down countless steep alleyways as you wind your
way toward the P i a z z a G r a n d e , which sits on the town’s highest
point. The Gothic P a l a z z o C o mm u n a l e shares the Piazza with
Montepulciano’s D u o m o , whose façade was never completed and
therefore, recedes in comparison with the great palaces of the Piazza.
The interior is in Renaissance style, with fragments of a tomb by
Michelozzo. When it is possible to climb the tower of the Palazzo
Communale, one would be justified in making the trek to see the
panorama available from the highest point in the area with Siena to
the north and Umbria and lake Trasimeno to the east. If the climb
is too daunting, opt for the P i a z z a S a n F r a n c e s c o instead for
an excellent view of San Biagio and the western countryside. The
church of S a n t ’A g o s t i n o on the north end of town houses a
crucifix attributed to Donatello. It owes its Renaissance façade to
Michelozzo of Florence. On the tower house across the way, you
may recognize the commedia dell’arte clown who strikes the clock
hourly as Pulcinella, or Punch. However, if you will devote only
one stop to art and architectural history, let that be S a n B i a g i o
on the western outskirts of town. See side trips below:
S h o p p i n g : It’s impossible to take a step out of sight of
one of the town’s many wine shops, all selling the local specialty,
V i n o N o b i l e d i M o n t e p u l c i a n o . See Itinerary 3 for more
information on Montepulciano’s vineyards. If interested in doing
your own detective work, see the regional wine body’s office at
Piazza Grande 7 (0578717484 , stradavinonobile.it) for information
on local wines, routes, site recommendations, and reservations.
Cantina Avignonesi (V i a G ra cc i a n o n e l C ors o 91 ) is a large, well
respected producer whose shop in town offers tastings.
D i n i n g : The recently restored Art Nouveau Caffé Poliziano
(V ia d i V olta i a n e l C ors o 27, 0578758615 ) is a town standby and
stop for famous Italians, touristy but beloved locally for meals
- 149 -
and afternoon drinks. The T rattoria D iva (V ia G ra cciano nel
C ors o 92, 0 5 7 8 7 1 6 9 5 1 , closed T uesda y ) is a safe bet for good pasta
at reasonable prices. Many consider L e L ogge del V ignola
(V i a d e l l e E rb e 6, 0 5 7 8 7 1 7 2 9 0 , closed T uesda y ) the best restaurant
in town for its value. The refined, candlelit setting in the historic
center of town is matched by an upscale take on Tuscan cuisine.
The selection of Vino Nobile is notable, as are the house made
desserts. For a quiet, artsy setting off the beaten track with good
small plates and a sunny terrace, try E Lucevan le Stelle (P iazza
S a n F ra n c e sc o 3, 0 5 7 8 7 5 8 7 2 5 ).
E v e n t s : B r av i o d e l l e B o t t i is a delightful tradition in
which the town’s eight neighborhoods compete at rolling 85 kilo
barrels down the central streets of town to the finish line at the
Duomo. It takes place on the last Sunday in August to much fanfare
and celebration. I l B r u s c e l l o , meaning “little tree,” celebrates
the Festival of Assumption with a theatrical display involving light
opera and elaborate costumes on August 15 and surrounding days.
S i de T r i p s : A ten minute walk down the Via S. Biagio
on the western side of town down a cypress lined road leads to
the C h i e s a d e l l a M a d o n n a d i S a n B i a g i o . This distinctly
Renaissance piece by Sangallo the Elder is beautifully sited on
a grassy stretch of terrace just below town. Its style harkens to
Bramante, a simple central plan in the shape of a Greek cross. The
human scale and harmony of line are elegant and memorable. If you
wish to visit a Montepulciano vineyard without venturing into the
country, C anneto , (V ia dei C anneti 14, 0 5 7 8 757737 ) located next to
San Biagio, is a good stop.
L a G rotta (L ocalità S an B ia gio , 0 5 7 8 7 5 7479 ) housed in the
vaulted downstairs of a 16th century Palazzo that had been home
to Sangallo the Elder, is an elegant stop for a meal. In the summer,
the garden is open for diners as well.
- 150 -
S a n G a l ga n o
40 km. Approximately 50 min. From Bibbiano, follow signs for
Murlo and then Casciano to the S223. Travel south on the S223 to
next exit, right for S. Lorenzo a Merse. Follow brown signs for Abb.
di San Galgano. Be sure to bring a map for all drives, particularly
those off of main roads. Tourist office: 0577756738.
Locally referred to as “La Chiesa Scoperchiata” or “Beheaded
Church,” San Galgano is at the same time one of the best Gothic
works in Italy and Tuscany’s answer to Arthurian legend. This site
makes for a nice several hour excursion from the Borgo, or can be
combined with a tour of southern Montalcino and Sant’Antimo for
a longer day. Plot a route from San Galgano through Roccastrada
and Paganico to arrive at Sant’Antimo and finish by driving
through Montalcino and back to Buonconvento.
Touring:
The lower church was previously a Cistercian
abbey. A chapter house and cloisters attach to the abbey. The
abbey itself, built between 1224 and 1288 shows characteristics
both of the Romanesque and the Gothic. It was the first church
in Gothic style in Tuscany, although those familiar with northern
European Gothic will note the persistence of Romanesque style
in Italy, and would have inspired features in the Siena Cathedral.
In fact, the San Galgano Cistercians, one of Italy’s largest factions
in the thirteenth-century, were involved in the planning and early
execution of the Siena Duomo. The abbey was sacked by English
mercenaries at the turn of the thirteenth-century. It went through a
brief period of revival in the fifteenth with a new papal income, but
ultimately fell into its current state. The church, lacking its original
wooden roof or any window glass, is a remarkably evocative space.
In a period of architecture noted for dark, mysterious interiors, it
is a special opportunity to see details in the full light of day. Now a
haven for pigeons, the wide open interior makes a romantic setting
for many a summer concert. An uphill climb leads to the hermitage,
C a p e l l a d i M o n t e S i e p i two hundred meters above the abbey.
- 151 -
The twelfth-century structure, built to house Galgano’s remains,
includes an unusual smooth dome reminiscent of Roman and even
Etruscan works. Ironically, most of Galgano’s remains were lost,
but his head remains in Siena’s Duomo.
A n I n te r e s t i n g N o te : G a l g a n o
Guidotti
began life in a prominent Sienese family in nearby Chiusidino. A
vision by Archangel Michael led him to renounce his worldly life
and remove himself from society. The current abbey stands on the
site of Galgano’s own hand-built chapel. It is interesting that the
upper structure’s dome is reminiscent of Etruscan tombs, because
the hermitage was built to house Galgano’s remains. It also houses
a s w o r d i n a s t o n e , supposedly thrust by none other than San
Galgano in 1180, an act that transformed the sword from a weapon
to a cross when his knightly friends tried to persuade him to return
home. There is also a curious pair of petrified hands enclosed in
glass, a warning to those who might wish to remove the sword.
Monteriggioni
50 km. Approximately 45 min. Take S2 north toward Siena,
exit toward Florence on the Raccordo Siena-Firenze. Exit for
Monteriggioni and follow signs. Parking available just outside the
south facing gate. Tourist office: Piazza Roma, 0577304810.
Certainly the most distinct silhouette in Italy, Monteriggioni’s
thirteenth-century walls with fourteen towers were first
immortalized by Dante, who described them as “giants in an
abyss” in the Divine Comedy. The town inside is little more than
a handful of shops and cafes. Stop here to break up the trip north
to San Gimignano, Volterra, or even Florence, or combine it with
a day in Chianti. Set aside a few minutes to take in the views over
the wall as you circle this truly charming town.
- 152 -
Touring:
There is little of consequence to see in
Monteriggioni, and that lack of pressure is part of its charm. Do
pay the small fee to climb the scaffolding allowing you to circle
the walls and look over to the surrounding countryside. After, have
lunch or a coffee in the quaint central square, P i a z z a R o m a .
Shopping:
Vetreria Artistica la Diana (V i a d e l l e
V ig n e , 6, 0577318423 ) sells art glass doors and windows and is worth
a look. Beware of overpriced tourist shops. F attoria C astello
di M onteriggioni (V i a 1 M a g g i o , 23, 0577304081 ) does a good
tasting of its Chianti and grappa, with reservations.
D i n i n g : Pozzo (P i a z z a
R oma , 20, 0577304127 ,
c los e d
S u n da y
e ve n i n g a n d M on da y ) comes highly recommended of the two
restaurants in town. The space, a stable in its 13th century life,
manages to be elegant in its sparseness.
Events:
Monteriggioni hosts a medieval festival,
M o n t e r i g g i o n i d i T o r r i s i C o r o n a , for ten days following
the third weekend in July, in which locals reenact medieval life in
costume. Visitors change money to the fiorino to purchase local
crafts and food. In the evenings the town is lit by torches and there
is music and dancing.
S i de
T r i p s : Near San Gimignano, Volterra, and
Monteriggioni, the town of C o l l e V a l d ’E l s a has been known
for its crystal production for centuries. There are still small shops in
town where you can buy crystal and glass, but the real production
has moved to factories on the outskirts where you can find a range
of qualities and styles in the showrooms and the occasional great
find in the outlets. The Borgo’s crystal ware comes from CALP on
the Via Senese, which also has a factory outlet, open daily to the
public.
- 153 -
San Gimignano
65 km. Approximately 1 hr. Take S2 north toward Siena, exit
toward Florence on the Raccordo Siena-Firenze. In Poggibonsi,
exit for San Gimignano. Follow signs through Poggibonsi. Parking
is marked in several pay lots just outside the walls. Easier parking
is available in the big lot below town, exit at 9:00 on the first
roundabout and walk (8 minutes) or take the shuttle into town.
Tourist office: Piazza Duomo 1, 0577940008.
Coined “the medieval Manhattan,” San Gimignano’s distinct
skyline comprises fifteen towers built by noble families in the 12th
and 13th centuries as signs of power. The town is known for
Tuscany’s only white wine to earn DOCG appellation, Vernaccia.
It is also a center for the production of saffron, the world’s most
expensive spice, and an early source of wealth for the town that
once boasted a population of 15,000, twice its present size.
An ideal half-day visit here would be spent outside. Window shop your way
through town and step inside as you are enticed. The hearty should climb
the Torre Grossa for an outstanding view of the surrounding countryside.
Then take a picnic to a park for a light lunch in order to save plenty of
room for sampling Tuscany’s best gelato. Stuff a big cup with as many
flavors as your taste buds will allow and enjoy them from a perch on the
cistern in the town’s main piazza. For the adventurous and curious, the
Santa Fina flavor, with its mix of honey, pine nuts, and saffron, harkens
to the old flavors of this charming town.
T o u r i n g : Several of the towers are accessible for climbing
today, but admission to the tallest in the P a l a z z o d e l P o p o l o in
the P i a z z a d e l D u o m o also allows one entrance to the Museo
Civico (9:30 a . m .—7 p . m ., c los e d S at u rda y ), which houses a good
collection by Memmi, Pinturicchio, and Filippino Lippi. Coppo di
Marcovaldo’s crucifix, likely painted while the artist was held by
Siena after capture at the Battle of Monteaperti, is a great example
of early Tuscan work from the mid-thirteenth-century. The Lippi
Annunciation tondi, circular paintings, one of the Virgin and a
second of Archangel Gabriel, also deserve a careful inspection.
Further along in the gallery, take a moment to examine Memmo di
Filippuccio’s frescoes of wedding scenes, housed in a small space at
the top of the stairs as you exit the main salon. Painted by Lippo
Memmi’s father in the 1320s, they depict a tournament and later
scenes from the wedding night, quite exceptional subject matter
for its period of art. As you finish in the Museo, be sure to climb
the T o r r e G r o s s a for an incredible view of the town and its
surrounding countryside and if your eyes are sharp, Volterra. For a
less exacting climb that still yields great views, window shop your
way northwest along the Via San Matteo and cut left and upward
towards the R o c c a on the western side of town where you can
join the picnickers, artists, and musicians who gather on sunny
days. Just south of the Rocca, a M u s e o O r n i t o l o g i c o with its
collection of stuffed birds might interest the nature-enthusiast.
For a lesser known resting spot and quintessential view of the
skyline, try the tiny B a g o l a r o P a r k across from the M u s e o
A r c h e o l o g i c o , a green piazza designed in honor of a single,
majestic tree. Inscriptions carved in the stone wall honor women,
as this courtyard once belonged to the convent of Santa Chiara.
- 154 -
- 155 -
Shopping:
The shopping here is generally very touristy,
but good local products include Vernaccia and saffron. There is a
beautiful jeweler’s workshop just off the Via S. Giovanni on the Via
Piandornella where the artist takes special commissions and sells
some completed pieces. For the white wine lover, San Gimignano
is your best bet in Tuscany. The S t r a d a d e l V i n o V e r n a c c i a
d i S a n G i m i g n a n o offers a guided tour and tasting, ‘Degusta
con noi,’ leaving from the Piazza del Duomo in minibus to visit a
vineyard and cantina, with a guided tasting of wine, oil, grappa,
and mixed bruschetta, cheese, and salami (A pril to O ctober ,
W e d n e s da y
f ro m
11 a . m .
to
1 p.m.
and
T hursda y
f or re s e rvat i on s u p to a da y in ad van ce , call the
T u ri st i c h e
at
0 5 7 79 4 0 0 0 8 ).
September, F e s ta d e l R i n g r a z i a m e n t o celebrating the
city’s patron saint of Santa Fina on August 1—2, F e s ta d e l l a
M a d o n n a on September 8, and F e s ta d i S. G i m i g n a n o on
January 31. The town also hosts an arts festival, D e n t r o e F u o r i
l e M u r a from June to August, a medieval fair with a parade and
horsemen on the third Saturday and Sunday in June, and a wine
tasting / star watching on the night of August 13, the N o t t e d i
San Lorenzo.
5 p . m . to 7 p . m .,
U ffi cio I nfor mazioni
Vo l t e r r a
fro m
Dining:
Try Dorando (V i colo dell ’O rto , 2, 0577941862 ,
clos e d M on da y i n low season ) for creative Tuscan fare, like pigeon
and truffle ravioli or smoked duck with broccoli and almond pesto.
Enormous windows from Bel Soggiorno (V ia S. G iovanni 91 ,
05779 4 0 3 7 5 , c los e d W ednesda y ) on the main drag offer beautiful views
of the valley below. The offerings go beyond the typical, with plates
like carrot gnocchi with spinach and pecorino or roasted sesamecrusted pork in a vin santo reduction with braised artichokes. This
is probably the best restaurant in town. A more casual option is La
Grotta Ghiotta (V ia S anto S tefano , 10, 0577942074 ), which is
proud of a menu that includes only local products. For something
even more simple, grab a sandwich as you stroll the streets. It is
imperative that one save room for the Siena province’s best gelato
at G elateria di P iazza . This famous shop in the Piazza della
Cisterna offers a ton of flavors from the simple to the surprising,
like chocolate and ginger, Vernaccia, or Santa Fina with a mix of
pine nut and saffron.
75 km. Approximately 1:15 hr. Take S2 north toward Siena, exit
toward Florence on the Raccordo Siena-Firenze. Exit Colle Val
d’Elsa and follow signs for Volterra. Look for parking on the north
side of the walls. Tourist Office: Via Giusto Turazza, 2, 058886159
Volterra’s austere look, on a windswept perch atop gray volcanic
hills, lends itself naturally to its ancient roots. Here are the best
Etruscan ruins in the area. An ideal half-day in Volterra would
involve exploring some of the town’s many ruins before strolling
town in search of alabaster souvenirs and a picnic lunch to take to
the surprisingly lush garden that sits overlooking rooftops, next to
the Medici citadel.
T o u r i n g : The city’s Museo
San Gimignano always has something going on
for its many tourists. Yearly festivals include the S a g r a d e l
B u o n g u s ta i o (Feast of good taste) in late August / early
Guarnacci (V i a D on M i n z on i
houses one of Italy’s best collections of Etruscan
artifacts. Some of its six hundred funerary urns are made of alabaster,
which is mined in the region. The P a l a z z o d e i P r i o r i in the main
square, built in 1208, is the oldest seat of government in Tuscany.
The Pinacoteca e Museo Civico in the Palazzo Minucci-Solaini
(V ia d e i S a rt i 1, 9 a . m .—7 p . m . ) houses a good collection of carved
alabaster, paintings by Ghirlandaio and Signorelli, with Rosso
Fiorentino’s Descent from the Cross taking pride of place. The
Via Marchesi leads to the P a r c o A r c h e o l o g i c o , where a few
- 156 -
- 157 -
Events:
15, 9 a . m .—7 p . m . )
stones from a Roman bath are not nearly so enticing as the beauty
of the sunny park next to the M e d i c i R o c c a f o rt r e s s . A bit
surprisingly, the fortress is in current use housing prisoners serving
life sentences. Lately, the hottest ticket in town has been for the
Twilight, New Moon tour.
Cortona
S h o p p i n g : Alabaster pieces can range from tiny egg-shaped
knickknacks to large scale artistic pieces. Don’t make a major
purchase unless you are confident with your eye, as a thriving
tourist trade should always make one wary of the quality of goods
easily at hand. Rossi on the Via del Mandorlo is an established
workshop with a good reputation.
Dining:
D el D uca (V ia di C astello 2, 058881510 , closed
T u e s da y e xc e pt i n high season ) offers an interesting menu for
reasonable prices. Pastas are rich and surprising, like ravioli
with poppy seed and scamorza. Meats like slow cooked lamb
in ag rodolce (with raisins and pine nuts) are good, although I
cannot recommend the pigeon except in cases where pure curiosity
outweighs the need for satisfaction. The setting with high vaulted
ceilings has an airy feel. On the main thoroughfare, Vecchia
Osteria dei Poeti (V ia M atteotti 55, 0 5 8 8 86029 , closed T hursda y )
is quite popular. Otherwise, take a picnic to the Rocca and enjoy
the outdoors.
E v e n t s : The G i o c o d e l l e C o n t r a d e , a medieval
tug of war between rival neighborhoods, is staged in the Piazza
dei Priori in June. V o lt e r r a J a z z takes place in July and
August. V o lt e r r a g u s t o , ‘Taste Volterra,’ highlighting a variety
of products, takes place in the second half of October, and in
November.
- 158 -
75 km. Approximately 1:20 hr. Access the S326 to Perugia via
Asciano and Serre di Rapolano (Warning: these roads are not well
marked! Pay attention and bring a map). In about 40 km exit for
Cortona and follow signs. Parking is marked below town. Tourist
office: Via Nazionale, 42, 0575639352.
It is not difficult to surmise why Frances Mayes captured the
imaginations of so many in her bestselling accounts of life in
Cortona. The town, a series of terraced roads and sharp uphill
alleyways surrounded by medieval walls, abounds in Tuscan charm.
Cortona is a good spot for restaurants, antique and linen shops,
and people watching from its busy piazzas. A day trip could be
combined with Arezzo or an Umbrian excursion.
T o u r i n g : The MAEC
(M u s e o d e l l ’A cc a d emi a E t ru s c a ) in
the Piazza Signorelli, named for the town’s favorite son, charts the
history of Cortona, which dates to the Etruscans if not earlier. The
museum is not yet completed but may soon be worth a visit for
the ancient history lover. Attached, the P i a z z a d e l D u o m o is
home to the M u s e o D i o c e s a n o , housing two major works by
Fra Angelico, an Annunciation and a Madonna with Saints, as
well as Duccio, Signorelli, and Lorenzetti works.
- 159 -
S h o p p i n g : Even without its annual antique market, Cortona
is home to no fewer than ten antique shops. B usatti , always
appreciated in Italy but made famous by Mayes, offers beautiful
linens for a price in its brand new shop on the Via Guelfa just off the
main piazza. There are also a number of upscale clothing boutiques.
Ersilia Monacchini runs a clothing store with hand dyed fabrics
that she calls wearable works of art on the Via Nazionale. Her
workshop just outside the walls is also open to visitors.
via Asciano and Serre di Rapolano, follow signs to Arezzo. Bring
a map, as there are many routes. Pay parking at the train station is
easy and plentiful. Tourist office: Viale Piero della Francesca (train
station), 0575377678.
D i n i n g : Trattoria D ardano (V ia D ardano 24, 0575601944 ,
W e d n e s da y ) is beloved by locals, offering a simple,
approachable menu. For something truly memorable, the Michelin
rated I l F alconiere (0 5 7 5 6 1 2 6 7 9 ) in nearby San Martino a Bocena
is worth the trip for the quality and preparation of its houseproduced ingredients.
clos e d
Events:
S a g r a d e l l a B i s t e c c a , a festival held yearly
in mid-August, celebrates the local steak by grilling over a six by
twenty foot pit. There is also a S a g r a d i P o r c i n i .
Italy’s oldest antique market, the M o s t r a M e r c at o N a z i o n a l e
d e l M o b i l e A n t i c o takes place yearly, from the last Saturday
in August to the second Sunday in September. The plethora of
antique stores means the town is apt to hold antique fairs for a
variety of other holidays and special occasions as well. There is a
F i e r a d e l R a m e , or copper fair, with all sorts of other goods at
the end of April. Market day is Saturday. In May, the G i o s t r a
d e l l ’A r c h i d a d o is a historical reenactment of games and
contests between the town’s neighborhoods.
With origins in the second millennium BC, a rise as an important
Etruscan center, and following, the Roman Arretium, present day
Arezzo is experiencing a new revival as a tourist destination and
for its gold works, of which Arezzo is the world capital. The city
positively bursts with antique shops year round, but once a month,
venders from everywhere travel to Arezzo for its famous Fiera
Antiquaria, antique fair. The art lover should be sure to visit Piero
della Francesca’s famous frescoes.
T o u r i n g : From Buonconvento, it is easiest to park in the
85 km. Approximately 80 min. Access the Siena-Perugia (east)
large pay lot at the train station and enter town by walking up the
Corso Italia toward the P i a z z a G r a n d e . This large piazza is the
central hub of the monthly antique market where rows of stalls line
up under the elegant R e n a i s s a n c e l o g g i a designed by Giorgio
Vasari, the world’s first art historian. Students of art and architectural
history and criticism may want to see Vasari’s self designed house
(V ia XX S e t t e mb re 55, c los e d T u e s da y a n d S u n da y a f t e rn oon ), of
which the entire interior is in fresco by the artist. Arezzo’s cultural
- 160 -
- 161 -
Arezzo
preeminence is further guaranteed by Guido d’Arezzo, a father of
musical theory, and Petrarch. His house, Casa del Petrarca is
open by appointment (0 5 7 5 2 4 7 0 0 ). The D u o m o at the top of town
is rather dark and spare but houses a tomb that may have been
done by Giotto. Downhill is the Basilica of San Francesco
which boasts one of the great works of the Renaissance, Piero della
Francesca’s Legend of the True Cross frescoes. Reservations
recommended (0 5 7 5 3 5 2 7 2 7 ) .
Shopping:
The C o r s o I ta l i a is home to many major
retailers and haute designer labels. Naturally, gold and antiques are
the main draw. The A n t i q u e F a i r takes over the first Sunday of
each month, with dealers and buyers from all around.
Dining:
The P a s s e g g i o d e l P r at o park behind the
Duomo is a wonderful picnic spot. For a quick panino or a pizza
to go, try Forno Pane e Salute (C orso I talia 11 ) on the main
market drag, the Corso Italia, and keep on shopping, lunch in hand.
This busy, rustic bakery is always bustling after a hundred years
of service. For a more leisurely break, off the beaten track, head
downhill to La Formaggeria (V ia de R edi 16, A rezzo , 0575403583 ).
This attractively spare wine shop and delicatessen stocks a good
range of cheeses and salami. There are hearty soups and always a
large selection of salads. Seasonal fish and meats come as carpaccio
for another light but more unusual option.
S p e c i a l E v e n t s : The G iostra
S aracino on
the first Sunday in September is an enormous festival of medieval
games, held in the Piazza Grande.
- 162 -
del