Things to Do in Las Vegas: Restaurants, Resorts, Recreation, and
Transcription
Things to Do in Las Vegas: Restaurants, Resorts, Recreation, and
A Travel Guide Things to Do in Las Vegas: Restaurants, Resorts, Recreation, and More 2011 Sunset Travel Guide Experience Sin City at any budget 3 | See the Strip: Globe-trot on the famed street that never sleeps 4 | Greater Las Vegas: A Sunset travel editor discovers Sin City’s luckiest pair: desert wilderness by day, spas and indulgent meals at night 9 | Vegas, high/low: Be a high roller—or pinch pennies—at the new CityCenter 11 | Savor Las Vegas: More of our favorites from Sin City’s evolved dining scene 14 | Vegas insiders dish: Five prominent residents share their favorite spots 4 11 9 2 Sunset Travel Guide 16 | Sin City sleeps: More Las Vegas lodging we love 18 | Travel resources cover: thomas j. story. clockwise from top: thomas j. story, andrea gomez romero, mgm resorts international 13 | Healthy in Vegas: Sin—and repent—in the West’s city of lights Sunset Travel Guide See the Strip Globe-trot on the famed street that never sleeps CENTER OF THE ACTION The Las Vegas Strip, the city’s biggest attraction. PROPER NAME Las Vegas Boulevard. STYLE Everything from Renaissance to BeauxArts, ancient Egyptian to modernist. In addition to its grand-scale replicas of the world’s most famous landmarks and the tallest building in the West (the Stratosphere), Vegas is the neon capital of the world. LANDMARKS The Eiffel Tower, Egyptian Sphinx 3 Sunset Travel Guide and pyramid, Venetian canals, and Bellagio fountains. BEST WAY TO TOUR Few seem to know about the monorail that runs the length of the Strip—a great way to beat gridlock on the main road ($5; lvmonorail.com). Casino-hotel highlights Bellagio Las Vegas. When the fountains out front start dancing to the strains of “Singin’ in the Rain,” the synchronized cascades soaring 250 feet into the air, it’s easy to believe in the promise of the New Las Vegas. The rest of the resort achieves the same lofty level: mosaic floors made of imported Italian tile, a glassdomed conservatory, and works by Monet and Degas. The fountains are best experienced at night, with performances every 15 minutes from 6 to midnight. bellagio.com New York–New York Hotel & Casino. Give me your wired, your bored, your shuttled masses yearning to eat free? Who knows what Statue of Liberty poet Emma Lazarus would have come up with for this New York–themed mega hotel. Lots of New York noshes can be found here. nynyhotelcasino.com Paris Las Vegas. Its Eiffel Tower ($10 for the elevator ride) is only half the size of the original. But at 450 feet, you’re both high enough for a panorama and low enough to take in the action down below, especially Bellagio’s fountains. The hotel’s street-level façade, which mimics Parisian landmarks such as the Louvre, feels oddly real. parislasvegas.com The Venetian Las Vegas. The least cartoonlike of the theme hotels that have opened in the last 10 years, the Venetian is best known for its Grand Canal and the plaza based on Piazza San Marco: One drink at the plaza restaurant, Canaletto, and you expect to see a grand doge wander by. Don’t miss the frescoed corridor between the main lobby and the casino: It, too, is one of the grandest spaces in Las Vegas. venetian.com mgm resorts international (2) New York-New York’s faux Big Apple skyline right The Bellagio’s celebrated fountains Sunset Travel Guide Vibrant Red Rock Canyon is a natural complement to Vegas’ neon A Sunset travel editor discovers Sin City’s luckiest pair: desert wilderness by day, spas and indulgent meals at night No one thought Las Vegas was my kind of town. “You wouldn’t last 24 hours!” friends warned. “You, of all people, would absolutely haaate it.” I’m the type who prefers the mountains to the mall. I cringe at the oversize and artificial. I get lost in crowds. Cry in traffic. And so, naturally, I always agreed: Sin City was not for me. But then, here I was, a Vegas virgin at 32 4 Sunset Travel Guide years old. And, I admit, I was curious. Maybe it was time I learned what all the buzz was about. I’m young; I’m fun; I’m a travel writer, for crying out loud! I called my friend Raina, the one other person I knew who’d Never Been, and we booked our flights. And then we booked a room—intentionally off the Strip and away from the chaos— at the swank Red Rock Casino, Resort & Spa, located 10 miles west of Las Vegas Boulevard and five minutes, tops, from the entrance to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. With an “adventure spa” and a view of the red rock from my big cushy bed, how bad could it be? We’ll spend our days outside—in the wilderness, I told Raina. At night, we’ll hit the town. If, honestly, only because we were dying to try chef Joël Robuchon’s eponymous restaurant, which elevated the superstar dining scene. And then we’ll retreat safely back to our rooms, Cinderella-style. After all, if we were going to make the most of our days, we couldn’t sleep through them. Fish-eye view of Hoover Dam “Vegas doesn’t typically attract, uh, outdoorsy people,” says my cabdriver, on the way out of McCarran International Airport. Perfect, I think. More room for me. I’d heard all about Red Rock Canyon: It is thomas j. story Greater Las Vegas Sunset Travel Guide climbers’ heaven, with hiking and horseback trails galore. But I didn’t know the relatively untracked Valley of Fire State Park is only an hour away; nor did I realize I could kayak down the Colorado River from the base of Hoover Dam. Vegas, baby, Vegas. Our very first night, we wrap ourselves in the hotel’s plush white robes, order room service, and watch America’s Next Top Model. Off to a lame start, we realize. But what happens in Vegas stays in Vegas! Plus, we have an early morning on the Colorado River. Before we catch even a glimpse of glitter, we see a trio of bighorn sheep moseying along a grassy hillside near the base of Hoover Dam—our launching pad for the day’s paddle. I’m happy. At the suggestion of our Red Rock Casino adventure activities guide, David Bert, we sign up with Evolution Expeditions Kayaking—a new outfitter with the best boats in town. Given the tight security at the Southwest’s landmark power source, only 30 water 5 Sunset Travel Guide permits are issued daily. “Even without that rule, though, there wouldn’t be many folks out here,” says Evolution’s owner, Dan Cameron. “Locals who’ve lived here forever have no idea you can do this! Took me 20 years to find out.” Feeling fortunate to get a bottom-up view of the monolithic dam in the early-morning light, we slip quietly down the glassy class I river and past the volcanic red rock of Black Canyon. Our first stop is Sauna Cave, where our guide, Aaron, leads us into a pitch-black 60-foot-deep, geothermally heated tunnel. We walk cautiously and ankle-deep in soothing, steamy water. Then we paddle on peacefully under the big blue sky, past peregrine falcons, our eyes peeled for more bighorns. I forget I’m in Las Vegas until Aaron informs me that his dream job is to be an aerial artist in a Cirque du Soleil show. “I’m worried I don’t have the body,” he admits, “but this kayaking gig should hopefully help my muscle tone.” From red-rock hound to jet-setter We grab a cup of coffee and a couch in the lobby, and stare through the doors tinted fire-engine red at a view of fountains, nonnative palms, and surrounding construction that will soon create an urban center, complete with residences and shops. We meet up with David Bert, the adventure activities guide who’d steered us to the kayak trip, so he can show us around Red Rock Canyon, the national conservation area he’s long considered home. “Are you ready to get spanked?” he asks. I’m startled, but then quickly realize it’s only innocuous hiking-speak. We tell him we’d prefer to take it easy, after yesterday’s invigo- thomas j. story A peaceful paddle on the Colorado River At Boyscout Canyon, we wade through a series of natural hot springs until we reach a big turquoise-clear pool, tempered by a rushing cold waterfall, and jump in. “This sure beats gambling!” says the one other guest on our trip. Agreed. That evening, we shift gears: Cruising down Interstate 15 in our Chevy Impala, we channel Jon Favreau and Vince Vaughn in Swingers. A surge of excitement hits us as we near the Strip. We’re dwarfed by the gaudy skyscrapers, shining by the light of the setting sun. The sky is pink, the traffic converging. Signs, signs, everywhere are neon signs. We’re trapped in a real-life LiteBrite, starstruck and overstimulated. An all-glass elevator shoots us to the top of THEhotel at Mandalay Bay, to Mix Lounge, where we toast our trip from a patio table with a bird’s-eye view of the entire Strip. Lights crawl like caterpillars along the edge of the Luxor Las Vegas pyramid. So many hotels. So many parking lots. The long, narrow bar, with its disco feel, deep booths, and dim light, is almost too cool. Next stop is dinner at Bartolotta at Wynn Las Vegas. Arguably the hotel on Las Vegas Boulevard since its splashy 2005 opening, the Wynn boasts a $2.7 billion price tag, a collection of van Goghs and Picassos that will bring you to tears, $500 greens fees, and a flashy website that takes two minutes to load. We allow a good half-hour to make our way 3 miles, but still we’re late for our reservation. The effects of the long day in the desert sun kick in as we devour stuffed langoustines and roasted rack of lamb. Bedtime. Twenty-four hours down—and, surprising myself, I’m actually looking forward to tomorrow. The main dining room at Robuchon above The desert comes alive at dusk in Red Rock Canyon left The pool at Red Rock Casino rating paddle. He whisks us 15 minutes from the resort, yet seemingly worlds away, to Sandstone Quarry. I’m surrounded by yellow sandstone cliffs, ruins of an agave-roasting pit, and crazy red rock formations. I ponder how these pancake layers came to be. “People come here for the whole whathappens-here-stays-here thing,” says David. “I tell them, ‘Take a bunch of photos, show your friends! Spend a few bucks on a horseback ride and actually get your money’s worth—you’ll blow a whole lot more at the blackjack tables.’ ” We scramble up to Calico Tanks, one of David’s favorite respites—and a unique juxtaposition. Standing among 150-million6 Sunset Travel Guide year-old rock, touching the earth in its purest form, I can see, looking at a distant Emerald City, the exact antithesis: a 6-mile stretch of nothing but stuff, spanning from the Stratosphere to Mandalay Bay. We’re back by noon and head straight for Salt Lick for real-deal Texas barbecue: jalapeño-stuffed shrimp wrapped in applewood bacon and tender smoked brisket. Trying our best to save room for dinner, we hold back on the berry cobbler. And then we hit the pool, the hotel’s 3-acre centerpiece encircled by private cabanas and umbrella-shaded chaises. The scene is tamer than I’d imagined, with more gray-haired folks than bikini-clad 20-some- things. Next, I treat my desert-dehydrated skin to the “Crystal Caviar” facial. After an indulgent sequence of exfoliation, creams, masks, and wraps, I emerge glowing—and ready for our next splurge, Robuchon. Dining at Joël Robuchon’s restaurant, for us, is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, with the full tasting menu priced at $385. So we savor each of the 16 courses, every sip of wine, and every pampered moment of the three-hour dinner. We treasure the over-thetop touches, from the dizzying choice of 14 kinds of fresh-baked levain to the truffled langoustine ravioli to the purple ribbon–tied napkin that appears upon return from each trip to the ladies’ room. Only in Vegas. Après dinner, we head over to the Mirage for Love, a Cirque du Soleil production. An acrobatic show unfolds, set to a remix of the Beatles’ greatest hits. We silently sing along, awestruck by the tumbles and trapeze—and then I, uh, nod off. Just briefly. It was late … We had all that wine … Raina nudges me. By the heartening “Love Is All You Need” finale, I’m revived. Downstairs, we see a snaking line by a velvet rope. It’s Jet, one of the hottest clubs on the Strip—or so we’d heard. Enough with the good-night sleeps. We’re in Vegas! The music is hypnotizing, as is the people-watching. We make it through two of the three sound rooms in the laser grid-lit space. But we can only handle so much. Around 3 a.m., we call it a night. We wake way too late for the sunrise horseback ride we’d planned. “This must be how people normally do Vegas,” I grumble, as we wander aimlessly around the MGM Grand. I slap five bucks down on the Wheel of Fortune—and win five more! This is kinda fun, but I’m no fool and quit while I’m ahead. And we rally. We leave the Strip for a drive through Lake Mead National Recreation Area to Valley of Fire State Park. An endless stretch of mind-boggling boulders erupts from the creosote bush. The red rock looks superimposed against the stormy sky. Terracotta sand seeps into our sneakers along the White Domes Trail. Eventually, we tear ourselves away. Four days and 100 hours later, it’s all over. “Checking out just for the morning?” the valet asks, opening the car door. He sees my suitcase. “Or checking out forever?” he smiles. I pause, unsure at first how to respond. “Actually. No. Not forever,” I reply, laughing. “I’ll be back.” clockwise from top: thomas j. story, mgm resorts international, thomas j. story Sunset Travel Guide Sunset Travel Guide is the best time to go. Delineated hiking trails here are relatively short, but you’re free to explore on your own. From Las Vegas, take I-15 55 miles to the park. Or, for a more scenic route, take Lake Mead Blvd. into Lake Mead National Recreation Area ($5 per vehicle); bear left at Northshore Blvd. and continue to Valley of Fire State Park ($10 per vehicle, $8 for NV residents); allow 11/2 hours; parks.nv.gov or 702/397-2088. HIKE White Domes Trail. A 1.2-mile jaunt through canyons of contrasting color. Stop at the visitor center for more information. On the water No worries, there’s plenty of H2O here in the desert—from Lake Mead and the Black Canyon area of Lake Mohave. State 146, State 147, and U.S. 93 lead into the Lake Mead National Recreation Area; nps.gov/lake or 702/293-8990. PADDLE YOUR OWN Boulder City Outfitters. In the Desert Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area Wander past petrified sand dunes, waterfalls, and red-tailed hawks on a free guided hike with Red Rock Canyon Interpretive Association (www.redrockcanyonlv.org), or explore on your own by car, foot, bike, or horseback. $7 per car; main entrance to the park is off State 159, 17 miles west of the Strip; blm.gov or 702/515-5350. DRIVE Scenic Route A one-way, 13-mile scenic loop provides many nice views of Red Rock Canyon. HIKE Calico Tanks Trail. An easy 2.5-mile outand-back scramble up about 450 feet to a stellar view of the canyon—even a peek of the Vegas Strip in the distance. La Madre Spring/White Rock Loop Trail. A diverse 6-mile loop through both open desert and piñon-juniper forests—but it’s the view of the valley on the north side of White Rock that really gets you. MOUNTAIN BIKE Badger Pass Loop. A Cottonwood Valley 6-mile single-track loop with some tricky maneuvering and moderate climbing. Catch nice views of the surrounding 7 Sunset Travel Guide desert at Badger Pass. Park at the Late Night parking lot, off State 160, about 41/2 miles west of intersection with State 159; head south under highway via the tunnel. HORSEBACK RIDING Awesome Adventures. An Old West–style horse ranch inside Spring Mountain Ranch State Park (see below). Head out for a sunrise tour in the crisp morning air followed by a picnic lunch, or ride into the sunset and enjoy a cowboy-style steak supper. 11/2-hour guided rides from $119; awesomeadventureguide.com or 800/519-2243. STOP BY Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. This peaceful 520-acre homestead at the base of Wilson Cliffs has the second-oldest— and one of the tiniest—buildings in all of Las Vegas. Tours daily; $9 per vehicle, $7 for NV residents; 6375 State 159, Blue Diamond, NV; parks. nv.gov or 702/875-4141. Valley of Fire State Park One of Nevada’s oldest state parks, dedicated in 1935, is a sci-fi–like land of red sandstone and gray limestone formations. Today the stark landscape sees more lizards than it does visitors. Winter, when temperatures are mild, SIT BACK Black Canyon/Willow Beach River Adventures. Let a motor-assisted pontoon raft do the work while you and up to 35 other folks float the Colorado. You’ll miss the hotsprings stop, but your arms will thank you later. 3 to 31/2-hour trip; $85.95; black canyonadventures.com or 800/455-3490. At the table World-renowned chefs are turning Sin City into one giant, glitzy, expensive food court for gourmands. Eat your heart out at some of our favorites. Bartolotta. The James Beard-nominated Italian stunner serves up perfectly executed pastas, seafood, and meats. $$$$; Wynn Las Vegas; 3131 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702/248-3463. Bradley Ogden. A few years old and still at the top of the Vegas food chain—with Ogden’s signature farm-country cooking and flown-in-fresh ingredients. $$$$; Caesars Palace, 3570 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 877/346-4642. Burger Bar. Pull up a stool at celeb chef thomas j. story Go for a refreshing dip in the steamy hot springs at Boyscout Canyon These veteran paddlers are the go-to folks for rental canoes and kayaks. Head downstream along the Colorado. Rentals from $45 for selfguided tour, $150 per person for guided tour; bouldercityoutfitters.com or 702/293-1190. GET A GUIDE Evolution Expeditions. Kayaking Guided tours for all levels in the Lake Mead National Recreation Area. Choose from 3-hour paddles around Lake Mead to the fullday, 11-mile trip downstream, which begins at the base of Hoover Dam. From $105; evolution expeditions.com or 702/259-5292. Sunset Travel Guide Cirque du Soleil’s Love above Stuffed langoustines at Bartolotta left Red Rock Casino’s swanky scene Hubert Keller’s casual carnivorous eatery, where burgers range from basic ($9.50) to foie gras– and truffle-topped Kobe beef ($58.50). $$; Mandalay Place at Mandalay Bay Resort, 3930 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702/632-9364. Joël Robuchon at the Mansion. The famed French chef came out of retirement to open his only formal fine-dining restaurant Stateside. Indulge in the 16-course tasting menu ($385 per person). $$$$; MGM Grand, 3799 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702/891-7925. (For a less lavish, and less pricey, experience, go next door to L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, where you can sample signature dishes à la carte. $$$$; 702/891-7358.) Olives. Grab lunch on the patio of Todd 8 Sunset Travel Guide English’s outpost for a grilled turkey Ruben panini with jalapeño slaw and fried pickles, paired with a prime view of Lake Bellagio’s dancing fountains. $$$$; Bellagio, 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 877/234-6358. Salt Lick Bar B-Q. Sticky, slow-cooked spareribs and tender barbecue chicken—straight out of Driftwood, Texas. Long picnic tables make this crazy-popular place casual and communal. $; Red Rock Casino, Resort & Spa, 11011 W. Charleston Blvd., 702/797-7535. On the Strip Don’t-miss classics, for Vegas newbies or longtimers. Bellagio. Our favorite place to drop, er, we Where to stay Get a good night’s sleep off the Strip—for a calmer stay and easier access to desert parks. Green Valley Ranch Resort, Spa, Casino. The first off-Strip luxury resort to cater to the locals. Decor is Mediterranean-style timeless as opposed to up-to-the-minute trendy, and the pool, with its private cabanas and sandy beach, is as hopping as any you’ll find on the Strip. From $86; greenvalleyranchresort.com or 866/782-9487. The Platinum Hotel and Spa. A—gasp— nongaming hotel off the Strip, by a block and a half. 255 suites come with full kitchens, plus two pools and a 17th-floor rooftop terrace with telescopes. From $119; 211 E. Flamingo Rd.; theplatinumhotel.com or 877/211-9211. Red Rock Casino, Resort & Spa. Dripping in more than three million crystals and walled in mahogany, wenge wood, and splashes of real red sandstone mined from the nearby canyon, Red Rock is the first billion-dollar hotel to be built off the Strip. No crazy lines at check-in and a separate casino entrance— one with windows, no less!—make the place quieter, and lighter, than your typical Vegas high-rise. From $125; 11011 W. Charleston Blvd.; redrocklasvegas.com or 866/767-7773. clockwise rom top: wynn resorts, mgm resorts international, thomas j. story mean win, a few bucks. It’s one of the Strip’s fanciest. Outside, illuminated streams of water, choreographed to music, shoot like clockwork, from Lake Bellagio. Sounds tacky—until you start swooning over Lionel Richie’s “All Night Long” as the fountains dance, ever so gracefully. Every half-hour until 6 p.m., every 15 minutes 8 p.m.–midnight; free; 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; bellagio.com Fashion Show Mall. Best shopping on the Strip. A get-lost-in-it emporium with more than 250 stores, including all the big names: Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Bloomingdale’s Home. 3200 Las Vegas Blvd. S. (across from the Wynn); 702/369-8382. Jet. The nightclub has three rooms, each with a different sound—hip-hop/top 40, rock, and house. Thu, Fri, Sat, and Mon; cover from $30; the Mirage, lobby level, 3400 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; jetlv.com or 702/693-8300. Love. Beatles fans will love this Cirque du Soleil show. 7 p.m. and 9:30 p.m. Thu–Mon; from $93.50; at the Mirage, 3400 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; cirquedusoleil.com or 800/963-9634. Mix Lounge. Fantastic views of the Strip. $$$; at THEhotel at Mandalay Bay, 3950 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702/632-9500. Sunset Travel Guide With public art instead of a lion cage or sphinxes, CityCenter is a whole new flavor for this town right Mandarin Oriental Be a high roller—or pinch pennies—at the new CityCenter You’ve probably seen pictures of CityCenter, the gazillion-dollar development that opened last December with three glittering hotels, a mammoth shopping center, and an art collection with enough stars for a MoMA road show. But amid the hoopla and big names (Daniel Libeskind was one of the architects; Maya Lin among the artists), there are bargains to be found—as well as totally worth-it splurges. Part of the appeal of CityCenter lies in its 9 Sunset Travel Guide un-Vegas-like restraint, as much as a 67-acre complex right on the Strip can be restrained: There’s no flashing neon, only one casino, and buildings are connected by walking promenades—definitely a novelty on the Strip. Get ready; it’s big. But whatever your budget, we’ve got you covered. High Stay On the Strip but blissfully quiet, the Low Stay The modern, sleek rooms at Aria (arialasvegas.com) start at $149, but to avoid sticker shock, factor in the daily resort fee of $30, which grants you access to a dazzling gym and lush spa. Guests can also get deep andrea gomez romero (2) Vegas, high/low casino-free Mandarin Oriental (mandarin oriental.com/lasvegas) feels like an oasis. Many rooms have wraparound glass bathrooms and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Strip—the yoga mat in the closet is also a nice touch. Rooms start at $295 (book online with code “Sunset”; 2-night minimum), though if you pony up more for executive digs, you get better views. Explore The Libeskind studio–designed Crystals shopping center (crystalsatcity center.com) has all the usual high-end suspects—Vuitton, Cartier, Tiffany—but some real originals too: Nanette Lepore for mouthwatering dresses, Assouline for lush coffee-table books, and the cult lingerie shop Kiki de Montparnasse. Spa The spa at Mandarin Oriental (888/8819530) is totally transporting, with terry lounge beds overlooking the Strip and attendants appearing at your elbow with tiny cups of tea. It’s open to nonguests for a $60 day-use fee ($40 for Sunset readers in Nov. 2010), but treatments are spendy—massages start at $200. Eat For total over-the-topness, check out the restaurants in Aria, where you can pack in a meal from practically every boldface chef in town—Michael Mina, Masayoshi Takayama, Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Silk Road (702/590-2030), in CityCenter’s Vdara Hotel, does a no-holds-barred breakfast (about $50 for 2) with a brioche French toast that is—and we’re not overstating matters— transcendent (we think it’s the cornflakes added for crunch). Sunset Travel Guide Vdara’s pool above The ultrasleek Aria left New York Strip at Jean-Georges Steakhouse discounts and seat upgrades at Aria’s Cirque du Soleil show, Viva Elvis. Explore The 17 pieces of public art scattered throughout CityCenter (pick up a map at any building there) make up an all-star collection, with works by Julian Schnabel, Henry Moore, and Claes Oldenberg and Coosje van Bruggen. Nancy Rubins’s crazy/wonderful canoe sculpture and a rainbow Frank Stella canvas lift any mood. Don’t miss Peter Wegner’s brilliant two-story artwork in the Vdara Hotel’s lobby. Spa Sundays through Thursdays, nonguests can use Aria’s spa (877/312-2742) for the $30 resort fee. There’s the expected sauna and steam bath, but the ultra-cool salt room and hot-stone beds make you feel like a VIP with10 Sunset Travel Guide out having to pay for a treatment. At Vdara (702/590-2474), $50 gets you into the spa and pool, but the better deal is to get a treatment (say, a $30 manicure), which comes with access. Eat Now this is mall food: Try the wood-fired pizzas (about $15 each) at Wolfgang Puck Pizzeria & Cucina (702/238-1000) in Crystals. You can go hog wild with artisanal toppings like squash blossoms, burrata cheese, or pork soppressata. Or make a meal out of the exquisite tapas (about $12 each) at Aria’s Julian Serrano (877/230-2742). Order the grilled white anchovies and tempura with wasabi foam, or skip the small plates and split a paella (about $60 for 2 with wine). Tao Las Vegas No, you won’t find enlightenment at this eatery, but with a 20-foot Buddha floating above a pool of koi, and a giant fortune cookie filled with chocolate mousse, you’ll experience bliss for a mere $10. $$$; dinner daily. The Venetian, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702/3888338. Penske/Wynn Ferrari/Maserati Showroom Check out the dream cars at the casino’s boutique showroom. Test drives aren’t offered, but you can see auto tycoon Roger Penske’s Enzo, buy a $30 Hot Wheels version, or just fantasize as those beauties spin on the turntable. $10; Wynn Las Vegas, 3131 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702/770-2000. Fremont Street Experience You’re missing the full Vegas if you don’t go retro at least once. Fremont Street Experience’s light show has jets and hot-air balloons blasting across the canopy. Nightly; free. On Fremont St., 1 mile north of the Strip; 800/249-3559. CBS Television City Research Center Convene with other couch potatoes at the CBS Television City Research Center, where you can view the latest offerings from networks including CBS, MTV, and UPN. Geared with touch-screen surveys, visitors approve or nix a small-screen show. Free. On Studio Walk inside the MGM Grand, 3799 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702/891-5752. Ethel M Chocolate Factory Get your fix at Ethel M’s with a selfguided tour that shows how the goodies are made; then taste a free sample. After choosing from sweets like Almond Butter Krisps and Pecan-Caramel Raptures, walk off calories in the 3-acre cactus garden. Free. 2 Cactus Dr., Henderson, 7 miles east of the Strip; 702/433-2500. Silverton Casino Hotel Lodge show When you’ve had enough booty from pirates and sirens, go off the Strip and watch this hotel’s considerably less-publicized mermaid show. Synchronized swimmers swish their tails in a 117,000gallon aquarium stocked with 5,000 fish and coral. 2:15-8:45 Thu, 2:15– 9:45 Fri-Sat, 11:30-6:45 Sun; free. Silverton Casino Hotel Lodge, 3333 Blue Diamond Rd.; 702/263-7777. andrea gomez romero (3) More Las Vegas bargains Sunset Travel Guide Diego’s colorful dining room Swank buffet The choices at Cravings—sushi and Caprese salad to fried chicken—are dizzying. Breakfast ($14.95) is the best deal; a weekend Champagne brunch ($25.95) and nightly dinner ($25.95) are also available. $$$. Mirage, 3400 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702/791-7355. Muy delicioso Diego imports authenticity from Oaxaca, Veracruz, and the Yucatán. Guacamole made tableside and six salsa choices are just a start. For appetizers, crispy empanadas, packed with crab, roasted poblanos, corn, and Chihuahua cheese, are a winner. As for entrées, the chicken mole might be the best north of the border—tender, smoky meat in a sauce with the complexity of some 32 ingredients. And real memories of the Yucatán are evoked by the cochinita pibil. $$$; MGM Grand, 3799 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702/891-3200. Gamble on the outdoors There’s nothing like an alfresco meal in Vegas to boost your faith in man’s ability to survive on Earth. And there’s no better place to do that than Wolfgang Puck’s eco-friendly Springs Cafe at Springs Preserve, where organic dishes are served on the veranda. Yes, the capital of conspicuous consumption—the Strip—may be visible beyond the old-growth trees of the city’s natural birthplace, but, spiritually, you couldn’t feel further away. $$; 333 S. Valley View Blvd.; 702/822-8716. More of our favorites from Sin City’s evolved dining scene Wine Country-style comfort In the vein of “just like Mom used to make— only better,” Thomas Keller’s Bouchon offers every classic French comfort dish the way it should be done: steamed mussels in a tangy wine and mustard broth; deeply flavored onion soup; rosy slices of roast leg of lamb on a ragout of artichoke bottoms, niçoise olives, and tomato confit; steak and perfect frites. No muddled flavors here (a common vice of 11 Sunset Travel Guide comfort foods)—just pure ingredients and great technique. Keller’s Napa base, along with the menu’s heritage, is reflected in the wines; the chef’s special French selection can offer a great value and a lesson in French wines. And breakfast on the patio—coddled eggs, almond-topped brioche, oversize lattes—is a French treat. $$$; Venezia Tower at the Venetian, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702/414-6200. Perfect pastry Lines form early at Jean-Philippe Pâtisserie for fresh-grilled crêpes as well as pastries and chocolates by award-winning pastry chef Jean-Philippe Maury. The sandwiches are a bargain. Take a number. $; Bellagio, 3600 S. Las Vegas Blvd.; 702/693-8788. High-style surf ‘n’ turf At Michael Mina’s Seablue, build the beginning of your meal from a priced-by-the-piece assortment of shellfish; a salad bar on paper mgm resorts international Savor Las Vegas Sin City stein hoists Entrées on Hofbräuhaus’ menu, like the Wienerschnitzel, average $16—but gi-normous portions of some could feed a family of four. Expect oompah bands, rowdy dancing, and steins the height of a 2-yearold. $$. 4510 Paradise; 702/853-2337. Sunset Travel Guide world of both traditional and innovative dishes, like miso-glazed wild salmon with a lotus root–and-ginger sauce; another, a line of teppan grills where simple cooking becomes performance art. Here, stellar ingredients—Kobe-style beef from Oregon, organic chicken from California, oyster mushrooms—are grilled in front of you and offered up in a series of courses. Sake served in flights or cocktails shows its range of styles and quality. $$$$; MGM Grand, 3799 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702/891-3001. Taste sweet rewards Dark chocolate and wasabi. Caramel and chocolate over smoked bacon. If there’s one bit of advice that visitors to the Vintner Grill should heed, it’s this: Don’t be afraid. Think of it as chocolate truffles taken to an extreme by one of the world’s premier chocolatiers, Vosges Haut-Chocolat. Sample truffle flights and learn the proper way to devour the treats: smell, lick, and snap. But first, order standouts from the contemporary American bistro menu, like lamb osso bucco. Plan ahead, though; Vintner Grill has quickly become one of the toughest tables in town. $$$; 10100 W. Charleston Blvd., Ste. 150; 702/214-5590. ’wichcraft, the hottest spot for a sandwich above Artful seafood at Seablue left Wolfgang Puck Bar & Grill Superb sandwiches Cold or grilled gourmet sandwiches and breakfast breads are served amid Warhol pop art decor at ’wichcraft, the deli offshoot of Tom Colicchio’s Craftsteak. The roast turkey gains zing with balsamic onions. Finish with an ice cream sandwich. $. 3799 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702/891-3166. California finery Kitchen un-confidential At Sensi, sleek walls of water and stone 12 Sunset Travel Guide surround four glass-enclosed kitchens—one each for Italian, Asian, grilled foods, and seafood—where chef Martin Heierling’s crew prepares international cuisine as diners watch. The menu ranges from classic ceviches to chicken tikka baked in a tandoori oven. $$$$; Bellagio, 3600 S. Las Vegas Blvd.; 702/693-8800. Sushi and more A kaleidoscopic wall behind the sushi bar draws people into Shibuya. The fresh fish, in sweet, earthy, briny rolls of salmon, shiso, and avocado topped with salmon roe, or the ultimate silky toro sushi, would be enough. But dining rooms follow—one a kelp-forest Wolfgang Puck Bar & Grill resides in the middle of the MGM Grand casino. “The ultimate California patio,” he calls it. We’d call it a Las Vegas–style diner (views over the shoulders of blackjack players being rare on California decks). He does have the ultimate Las Vegas snack—crisp, warm, paper-thin potato chips drizzled with creamy blue cheese sauce and pungent white truffle oil; pair them with a glass of champagne. All the grill favorites are here in fresh, fine form: crab cakes, Puck’s signature duck bratwurst sausage, and wood-fired pizzas. Drinks are even better—try a prickly pear mojito or a fruity “chop chop.” $$$; MGM Grand, 3799 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702/891-3000. mgm resorts international (3) that enables you to make checks next to your choices (snow peas, shaved crimini mushrooms, olive focaccia croutons); and sets of appetizers categorized by cooking method: raw, steamed, or fried (don’t miss the delicious, ridiculous lobster corn dog). For entrées, stick with the jet-fresh “surf” list from the grill or the tagines. Seablue’s wine list is boldly white-heavy, with Rieslings, Gewürztraminers, Viogniers, and Grüner Veltliners from their respective sources all over the world. $$$$; MGM Grand, 3799 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702/891-3486. Sunset Travel Guide the water? Evolution Expeditions Kayaking (see Greater Las Vegas, page 4) offers tours on Lake Mead and along the Colorado River, starting at the foot of the dam. A healthy spa day Las Vegas prides itself on being a city of sin, but Canyon Ranch SpaClub (in the Venetian and the Palazzo; 877/220-2688) caters to healthful decadence. Relax with a massage (from $160), or go deeper: Have lunch and develop a healthy-eating plan with a registered dietitian ($110) or receive a personalized workout with an exercise physiologist (from $55). Veering dangerously off your wholesome path? Restore balance with lunch at the SpaClub’s Canyon Ranch Grill ($$; in Palazzo; 877/220-2688), where calorie, fat, and fiber counts are printed on the menu. We’re tempted by the fresh crab cakes and roastedpepper purée, ahi tuna sandwich, and berry bowl, all for a slim 530 calories. Healthy in Vegas Sin—and repent—in the West’s city of lights Pass on 4 a.m. roulette and cocktails in favor of a trip to Vegas with real balance. Enjoy the electric-lit fantasyland that is the Strip, but find solitude and peace in the red rock desert just outside of town. Leave the Strip Take a break from city life and drive just 17 miles west of the Strip to explore the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area 13 Sunset Travel Guide (see Greater Las Vegas, page 4). Wander past petrified sand dunes, view petroglyphs, and look for red-tailed hawks. Or drive about 30 minutes southeast of Las Vegas and be blown away by amazing vistas, red rocks, and the country’s largest reservoir, Lake Mead. Created by the hulking, 726-foot-tall Hoover Dam, the reservoir is surrounded by the Lake Mead National Recreation Area (see Greater Las Vegas, page 4). Want to get out on Where to stay You’re in Vegas: Gamble a little. The best deals for hotels are at blind travel booking sites such as Hotwire.com and Priceline.com. Nervous? Check the Internet bulletin board BetterBidding.com to sleuth out what mystery hotels you may be bidding on. There, members and moderators track which amenities listed by the blind sites match up with which properties. For guaranteed nonsmoking accommodations, try the Trump International Hotel (trumpintl.com) or the Westin Casuarina Las Vegas Hotel, Casino & Spa (starwoodhotels.com). thomas j. story The greener side of Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area Worth the calorie splurge! Husband and wife chefs Michael and Wendy Jordan opened Rosemary’s Restaurant ($55 dinner prix fixe; 8125 W. Sahara Ave.; 702/8692251) in a Strip mall in 1999; within a few years, it was a city favorite. Michael, who earned his chops working for Emeril, has perfected California-meets-Deep-South cuisine, witnessed in the barbecue shrimp with blue cheese–laced coleslaw. Sunset Travel Guide Vegas insiders dish Five prominent residents share their favorite spots Oscar Goodman, Mayor of Las Vegas Las Vegas is successful because we provide an escape, a fantasy, a mystique. There’s a local place we go, Vintner Grill; service is great, and there are lots of young people. I like being around young people. I like the barbecued lamb ribs. And the Bombay Sapphire martini—no vermouth; it takes up too much room. See Savor Las Vegas, page 11. Penn Jillette, Illusionist, Penn & Teller I love the humility of Las Vegas. Notice it 14 Sunset Travel Guide doesn’t have a casino named Vegas. It has New York–New York, it has the Rio, it has the Venetian, it has Paris. It’s the absolute pure American idea of individuality. And there’s a wonderful sense of design. Paris Las Vegas: rooms from $180; parislasvegas.com or 877/7962096. Penn & Teller perform at the Rio All-Suite Hotel & Casino; tickets from $75; rooms from $189; riolasvegas.com or 702/777-7777. Libby Lumpkin, Art Historian & Former Director, Las Vegas Art Museum For a local spot that concierges never recommend, there’s Harrie’s Bagelmania ($; 855 E. jen siska, wolfgang staudt (on flickr creative commons) Mayor Goodman with wife Carolyn and friends below The Venetian Sunset Travel Guide More hidden Vegas hotspots Twain Ave.; 702/369-3322), also known as Mort’s. The pastrami Reuben may be the best in the country. For Chinese after a late show, there’s Harbor Palace Seafood Restaurant ($; 4275 Spring Mountain Rd.; 702/253-1688), which is open until 5 a.m. The shrimp dishes and salmon dim sum are terrific. I think the food is even better during the lunch hour. When I arrived here in the early 1990s, I was hoping to discover funky treasures in secondhand stores, but I was disappointed to find that most of the furniture was faux Asian black lacquer. Now, Vegas has some cool design stores, including Unica Home (closed Sun; Mon and Tues by appointment only; 3901 W. Russell Rd.; unicahome.com). 15 Sunset Travel Guide Rick Moonen, Chef, Rm seafood, Mandalay Place I don’t gamble. I walk through the casinos, but nothing calls my name. I work too hard for my money. Red Rock Canyon is my playground—I just love hiking and biking. Nine days out of ten, you’ll see me biking there. I never go the same way twice. See Greater Las Vegas, page 4. Jonathan Cole, Aerialist, O by Cirque Du Soleil Rehab, the pool at Hard Rock Hotel & Casino, is a hoot on Sundays. Go early—it gets jammed; you can’t even move in the water. You want to go crazy, you want to wear that sparkly top. It’s the whole Paris Hilton scene you should experience. Once. Rehab: 10 a.m.8 p.m.; cover charge from $20; ages 21 and over only; at Hard Rock Hotel & Casino, 4455 Paradise Rd.; rehablv.com or 702/693-5000. O is performed at Bellagio: tickets from $100; 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; bellagio.com or 888/488-7111. jen siska (3) Heading into Red Rock Canyon above Life is a party at Rehab left The Eiffel Tower at Paris Las Vegas Locals know that there’s more to Las Vegas than fake mountains and celebrity chefs. On the first Friday of each month, thousands flock to a Vegas-style block party—including bands, chalk drawing, and dancing—in the Arts District between the Strip and the old downtown. And if you can’t make First Friday, you can still check out the galleries, antiques stores with great midcentury finds, and casual restaurants. First Friday The next First Friday event starts at 6 p.m. Dec. 3, 2010. Free. firstfriday-lasvegas.org or 702/384-0092. Arts District More than 30 studios, galleries, shops, and cafes, spread across about 18 blocks. Most galleries are along Main St. and Casino Center Blvd., from Charleston Blvd. south to Colorado Ave. Casa Don Juan Predictable Mexican menu but particularly tasty food. Closed Sun. $; 1204 S. Main St.; 702/384-8070. Luv-It Frozen Custard Yummy frozen treats at a walk-up stand. A favorite since 1973, the Western Sundae oozes with gooey caramel, fudge, and salted pecans over frozen custard. Closed Sun, Mon. 505 E. Oakey Blvd.; 702/384-6452. The Arts Factory Heart of the arts scene, with 21 galleries. Hours vary by gallery, but all are open during First Friday. 101–109 E. Charleston Blvd.; 702/676-1111. Commerce Street Studios This gallery center houses eight studios. Open First Friday and by appointment. 1551 S. Commerce St.; 702/678-6278. The Attic Retro shop with two stories of Elvis costumes, faux leopard furniture, and multicolored wigs. Closed Sun, Mon. $1 admission (goes toward any purchase totaling more than $5); 1018 S. Main St.; 702/388-4088. The Funk House Acrylic resin lighting, midcentury modern furniture, vintage art. 1228 S. Casino Center Blvd.; 702/678-6278. Sunset Travel Guide A room with a view at the Four Seasons right Arctic Ice Room at Caesar’s Qua Baths & Spa Vegas’ sleekest hotel pools More Las Vegas lodging we love Then hit the mineral-infused Frigidarium plunge pool, warmed to a pleasant 72°. Rooms from $110; caesarspalace.com Caesars Palace The pools at Caesars Palace have always been about fabulous Vegas excess: the football field–size Neptune pool, the “Europeanstyle” (aka topless) Venus pool ($20). Now, five new ones have been added to the mix, including Fortuna with its swim-up blackjack. Insider tip: High-rollers can have the $400 cabanas; we’ll take the $20 minor upgrade to a cushy scoop lounge chair. The pool isn’t the Four Seasons Las Vegas This non-casino resort bursts with Old World glamour—think glossed marble and lots of swirls in gold and cream. Overheard (amid flurry of kissy-kiss greeting): “You look fabulous!” “No, you look fabulous!” Hidden behind gardens at the Strip’s south end, the décor exudes elegance in a rich kind of way, and let’s face it—there’s something very calming about luxury. Guests can check out the adjacent wave pool and river run at Mandalay Bay, then retreat back to the quieter Four Seasons pool 16 Sunset Travel Guide only place to cool off, either. Let everyone else sweat buckets on the Strip while you settle into the Arctic Ice Room, at the Qua Baths & Spa. Here, the air feels polar, snowflakes drift from the domed ceiling, and the dim blue lighting and twinkling “stars” conjure the feel of a wintry night. Don’t worry, your teeth won’t chatter nor will your lips turn blue—not with heated benches to warm your derrière, and the sauna next door. larry hanna, harra’s entertainment Sin City sleeps The Venetian Las Vegas The Asianthemed Tao Beach oasis at the Venetian sports a dance floor and 14-foottall fire columns. Call ahead, and expect exclusivity and luxury (private masseuses, personal misters, tanning butlers, anyone?). Cover charge varies; taolasvegas.com Palms Casino Resort The pool is just as swanky, if a little less star-studded, with crystal-clear water, outdoor blackjack, and a bar beneath a glassbottomed pool. palms.com Golden Nugget The hotel gives the phrase “pool shark” new meaning: A three-story waterslide tube shoots swimmers past shark-filled waters. Hotel guests only; goldennugget.com Sunset Travel Guide A suite at Wynn Las Vegas right The pool at Renaissance understated and elegant. Nonwagering types will appreciate the absence of smoke and slot machines. Request a west-facing room for a fantastic view of the golf course at the superluxe Wynn Las Vegas Country Club. From $139; renaissancelasvegas.com Hilton Grand Vacations Club You don’t have to be a member of the Grand Vacations Club to stay here. Road-tripping families save cash with the kitchenettes. The family scene isn’t always quiet and the location is at the far north end of the Strip, but the large rooms offer well-priced refuge. For non-casino lodging, there’s plenty to do onsite: downstairs from the circular lobby, the activities room has air hockey, foosball, and pool tables. From $99; hilton.com Loews Lake Las Vegas Resort Located on the fringes of Henderson southeast of the Strip, the resort is built around a purely recreational lake. A Jack Nicklaus– designed golf course also sits along the lakeshore, with jagged desert mountains for a 17 Sunset Travel Guide backdrop. You won’t find any pirate ships or a regularly scheduled volcano eruption, but guests can kayak or takeout a paddleboat to explore the lake and its bays, where you can experience the kind of serenity all but impossible to get on the Strip. With its earth-tone exterior and tile roof, the resort manages to blend nicely into the setting. Inside, the decor is understated, with an airy lobby. Lighting and furnishings are imported from Morocco but show none of the theme park–style excess of the Strip. From $169; loewshotels.com Renaissance Las Vegas Hotel The strains of Sinatra provide the only clue that you’re in Sin City at the nongaming Renaissance Las Vegas. Tucked between the famous Strip and the Las Vegas Convention Center, the AAA Four Diamond Award winner—which at 548 rooms qualifies as a boutique hotel by Vegas standards—is both Wynn Las Vegas The most elegant—and gimmick-free, save for the lobby’s Maserati dealership—place to rest your head in Vegas. From $299; wynnlas vegas.com wynn resorts, renaissance las vegas hotel (where Mandalay Bay guests can’t follow). From $275; fourseasons.com/lasvegas THEhotel Abstract squiggle art, black-lacquered wood, and diffused golden light give a glow to this new über-elite hotel on Mandalay Bay’s 60-acre property. A separate entrance offers sanctuary from the Strip hubbub, though the the thing—THEcoffeebar and THEcafe too— dampens our mellow buzz just a bit. On the 64th floor, Alain Ducasse’s Mix ($$$$) offers tremendous views each evening in a white dining room with a curtain of glass baubles. From $189; mandalaybay.com Sunset Travel Guide Travel resources Find more inspiration for travel in the West on Sunset.com 10 great one-night escapes For some, spending more than 24 hours in Sin City is much too much—but for others, a one-night vaca is the perfect amount of time to quickly recharge. Check out our top 10 24-hour escapes in the West, from a hip desert pool scene just two hours from L.A. to a blissful retreat outside Denver. 7 ways to soak up autumn in the Southwest Enchanted by the red-rock beauty outside Vegas? Discover even more of the Southwest’s striking landscapes this fall. Beat the crowds, enjoy lower temperatures, and revel in the outdoors in spots like Zion National Park, Taos, Gila Wilderness, and more. www.sunset.com/travel/southwest Sunset.com/Travel Your ultimate resource for travel in the West, Sunset Travel is packed with tips on the best places to go, from National Parks to urban retreats. Get inspired with Sunset’s ideas for fun weekend trips or the ultimate Western vacation. www.sunset.com/travel 24 must-see spots Our national monuments and other treasures will make you fall in love with the West all over again. Build a great vacation around a spectacular island, forest, desert cliff dwelling, canyon, fossil bed, tower, or volcano. www.sunset.com/travel 18 Sunset Travel Guide Clockwise from left: dave lauridsen, D. L. Thompson & Jon Johnson, arizona office of tourism www.sunset.com/travel Sunset Travel Guide A Travel Guides Explore the best of the West Discover these destinations and more in our full library of travel guides, available as free downloads at travelupdate.sunset.com Top 7 Hawaii Vacation Deals 2010 Big Sur, Monterey & Carmel: Hotels, Attractions, and More 2010 Grand Canyon National Park Hotels and Activities 2010 Napa Valley: Wineries, Hotels, Dining, and More 2010 Seattle Hotels and Washington Vacations 2010 California Travel Deals 2010 Best of Los Angeles: Hotel Deals, Dining, and Attractions 2010 Grand Teton National Park & Yellowstone National Park: Hotels and More 2010 Best of San Diego: Hotels, Dining, and Attractions 2010 Best of Portland: Hotels, Dining, and Attractions 2010 Yosemite National Park Hotels and Activities 2010 Best of San Francisco: Dining, Hotels, and Attractions 2010 Best of CA’s Central Coast: San Luis Obispo Hotels, Paso Robles Wineries, and More 2010 Flagstaff & Sedona: Resorts, Things to Do in Sedona RedRock Country, and More 2010 Palm Springs Hotel Deals & Things to Do in Palm Springs 2010 19 Sunset Travel Guide Subscribe to Sunset You’re invited to enjoy a FREE PREVIEW of the next 2 issues of Sunset magazine risk-free. 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