OMG!Spandex ByMandah

Conquering the stretchy demon fabric
E-Format by Mandah
Zenkaikon 2016
Do not redistribute
ABOUT
THE
PANELIST
Mandah is a multitalented artist. Creating
illustrations, costumes and SFX looks. As
well as being an active performing artist.
Outside of the convention her work can be
found in indie films, community theater and
on numerous cosplayers throughout the
world. She is both a commissioned based
artist as well contract. Currently she
works for Abigail Mentzer’s dancewear
company.
She has been a seamstress for nearly 8 years
creating costumes. Her specialty is working
with spandex and creating superhero outfits.
Like her Facebook
Tumblr
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Twitter
TOOLS
THAT WILL BE YOUR BEST
FRIENDS!
SELECTING FABRIC
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ALWAYS ORDER SWATCHES BEFOREHAND!
2way Stretch – Great for sewing bodysuits and superhero
leotards.
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Be sure to check the grain. Sewing in the wrong direction
will result in a tight disaster.
4way Stretch – Great for pants, tops, boot covers,
gloves and other accessories.
Faux Fabrics – Pleather and Stretch Vinyl.
Top Fabrics for Suits
Miliskin Matte/Shiny
JUMBO Spandex (Captain American)
Cotton Lycra
Powernet Mesh (Sweat Absorption)
Wetlook
Pleather
Vinyl 2way (Latex look)
Metallic (Non Lamé)
SEWING
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Use the correct needle size! For sewing knits and
lightweight spandex use a 90/14 needle. Using the
incorrect needle will result in thread breakage,
skipped stitches and sometimes broken needles.
For sewing heavier or thicker material use a or
special leather needles like 100/18 or 100/16
Use a zigzag stitch on areas that require the
most stretching (Neckline, wrist, ankles, etc).
Most sewing machines have a ‘Stretch Stitch’.
Settings are whatever length is past 0 named SS.
Width can be whichever length. DO NOT USE A BASIC
STRAIGHT STICH! This will result in the thread
breaking due to resistance.
If using Wooly Nylon in sewing machine, wind it
in the bobbin. Sewing with it will result in
constant breakage as it’s meant to be used with a
Serger.
Make sure thread tension is loose. Between 3-4
SERGING!
The absolute easiest and best way to sew spandex is
with a Serger. It’s fast, thread doesn’t break
from stretching, trims fabric and finishes off
edges.
Wooly Nylon thread – a very painful to thread
but wonderful stretch thread to use. More
expensive than regular thread, but is the same
price as a serger cone (roughly $3-4)
 Serger Cones – if you don’t want to use Wooly
Nylon check the texture and weight of the cones.
The best serger cones to use on spandex that
will guarantee less thread breakage from
stretching is T40 Spun Poly Cotton thread.
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CUTTING TOOLS
OLFA safety lock rotary cutter
Pattern Weights
Rotary cutters in different sizes
and styles
Self healing cutting mat
CUTTING
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Using weights keeps the pattern in place when
cutting around the fabric.
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Ball Point pins are an option for thin nylon
spandex fabric
Always cut knit fabric with a rotary cutter.
It’s easier, especially for slippery fabrics
and cutting curved edges.
Use a cutting mat. Do not cut directly on a table
or floor!
 Scissors will give you uneven cuts.
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Best brands include OLFA, Fiskers and Clover
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DO NOT BUY THE STORE BRAND CUTTERS! They are a
waste of money. Their scissors are good quality.
SEWING FEET
Teflon Foot
Walking Foot
Roller Foot
Invisible
Zipper Foot
For use with
slippery fabrics.
Not suited for
matte vinyl’s. It
will get stuck.
For sewing
hidden
zippers in
costume.
For sewing
evenly or with
the zig zag
stitch to finish
edges on a
sewing machine.
For sewing
with thick
fabrics.
SEWING

WITH
VINYL/FAUX LEATHER
DO NOT USE SEWING PINS!
This will leave puncture holes in the
garment.
 A semi fix for hole punctures is to use
an iron with cloth over the area. Do not
use this often as it makes the fabric
softer and easier to tear.
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For thin fabric use Paper Clips or
Basting Stitches
For thicker fabric use binder clips
For thick fabrics use a Roller Foot
APPLIQUÉ
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AND
OTHER DESIGNS
Stabilizer - For use with embroidery or
reinforce intricate cuts that need to
maintain a certain shape. There are
different types for specific designs.
Cut Away – Needs to be cut after
design is finished with scissors.
Good for emblems, patches and
other FILLED designs.
 Tear Away – After sewing just pull
the sheet away from the fabric.
Good for thin designs like
lettering or outlining.
 Wash Away – Is a water soluble
paper that is good for lace or
very intricately detailed designs.
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Attach designs with stitches or glue.
DO NOT embroider directly onto
spandex. It will pull the fabric and “Cat” costume from
there will be no stretch.
movie “Duo”
ADHESIVES
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For attaching detailed fabric pieces that cannot
easily be sewn by machine use Tacky Fabric Glue
or Liquid Stitch. As well as for adhering
rhinestones or other jewels. These glues have
elasticity to them.
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Heat n Bond works best for fabric chest emblems.
It is double sided. Comes in a sheet or roll. CUT
the design out AFTER you adhere a piece of the
fabric.
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Do not use liquid stitch to glue seams together!
Preferable type Ultra Hold.
This DOES NOT work on Faux Leather or Vinyl fabrics.
They must GLUED on.
If attaching Urethane Rubber parts to a spandex,
use Loctite and the Loctite Primer.
Contact Cement can be used as well. Warning! Has
a strong odor that will last over a day! Use in
ventilated area.
COSTUMES
BY ME
RECOMMENDATIONS
Sewing Patterns
Jalie (Canadian brand)
Laughing Moon (Corset)
Kwik Sew
Serger/Sewing
Brands
Janome
Babylock (Serger)
Brothers 1024D
Serger
Bernina
FROM
PANEL
Sewing Books
The Costume Technician's Handbook
Vogue Sewing
The Complete Serger Handbook
Costume References
Cirque Du Soleil: 25 Years
of Costume (Recently in
reproduction again! Hooray!)
Fabric
Spandex World
Spandex Warehouse
Fabric USA